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2017 Clos Saint Jean Chateauneuf du Pape Sanctus Sanctorum

100 JD

Availability:

From the critics:

99 RP

97 VM

Critic Reviews

One of the greatest young wines I’ve ever tasted is the 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Sanctus Sanctorum which is 100% old vine Grenache sourced from a single parcel in the La Crau lieu-dit. Lighter in color than both the Combes des Fous and Ex Machina, it offers a heavenly perfume of kirsch liqueur, crushed rocks, exotic spices, and graphite. This beauty hits the palate with an incredible display of opulent, decent fruit paired with an elegance and seamlessness that needs to be tasted to be believed. With building richness, no weight, ultra-fine tannins, and a finish that won’t quit, it’s released only in magnum, so it will take upward of a decade to hit maturity and will keep for 20+ years. Hats off to the Maurel family and their consultant Philippe Cambie!

Jeb Dunnuck | 100 JD
Bottled only in magnum, the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Sanctus Sanctorum was made entirely from Grenache planted in 1905 and aged in new demi-muids, yet it has completely absorbed any trace of barrel. Incredibly intense and dramatic, it combines savory notes of licorice and dark roses with black cherries and dried spices. Full-bodied, rich and velvety, with a mind-bendingly long finish, it’s a tour de force that may prove to be perfection for some readers.

Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 99 RP
Deep shimmering crimson. Powerful, expansive red berry liqueur, floral pastille, garrigue and Asian spice qualities on the hugely perfumed nose, along with building suggestions of incense and smoky minerals. Sweet and seamless on the palate, offering intense Chambord, cherry pie, spicecake and lavender pastille flavors that deepen and expand steadily through the back half. Clings with superb tenacity on the gently tannic, mineral-tinged finish, which eventually leaves suave floral and exotic spice notes behind. Produced exclusively in magnums.

Vinous Media | 97 VM

Wine Details for 2017 Clos Saint Jean Chateauneuf du Pape Sanctus Sanctorum

Type of Wine Rhone Red
Varietal Grenache : The vast and complex world of grape varietals is wondrous, fascinating and somewhat baffling. The how and why certain varietals either prosper or fail in winegrowing regions around the world is interesting; varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon thrive in extremely gravely soils, while Merlot finds success in rich clay. The Grenache grape variety is no exception. It excels in some of the most “inhospitable” soils and climates; inhospitable perhaps for anything but the wonderful Grenache grape. It seems adaptable to harsher climates and terroir and when at its best can produce one of the most concentrated and alcohol laden wines.

Grenache (or Garnacha as it is called in Spain) is believed to have originated from the north-eastern Spanish province of Aragon. The varietal first spread south and east, to Catalonia, Rioja and Navarra. It expanded greatly throughout the 12th-17th century, to Corsica, Sardinia, Southern Italy, Sicily, Croatia and even Greece. It was first planted in France in the Languedoc region in the 18th century and eventually its arrival to Rhone in the 19th century. The worldwide expansion of Grenache was inevitable and would eventually find its way to Australia, South Africa, Chile, Argentina, Provence and America. It was first introduced to California by Charles Lefranc, a prominent Santa Clara winegrower, in 1857.

Today, Grenache is one of the most popular and widely cultivated grape varietals in the world covering 163,000 hectares world-wide. It has been used in a myriad of ways and has been both, the workhorse and backbone in blending but also as a single-varietal. It is undoubtedly the magical component of the infamous Chateauneuf-Du-Pape appellation of France where a sea of Grenache grape vines grace the vineyards. Though there are 13 allowable varietals permitted by law in the AOC (controlled designation of origin), Grenache makes up 70-75% of all grapes grown in the appellation. It flourishes in a terroir of large stones, crystalline rocks, quartz, sandstone and the famous ‘galets roules’ (large round stones found throughout Southern Rhone). Chateau Rayas, which produces, perhaps the truest expression of Chateauneuf-Du-Pape is composed of 100% Grenache. Due to grape’s thin skin, the wine of Rayas is reminiscent to the color of red Burgundy offerings.

In Provence, Grenache is widely used in the blending of Rose wines. The great Sasha Lichine, of Chateau D’Esclans, who revolutionized the rose industry uses Grenache as the primary blending agent in his fleet of Rose. The grape’s phenolic qualities, ageability and character have lent to the success of D’Esclans, as his Garrus is the world’s most renowned, prestigious rose wine, while his Whispering Angel is the top-selling French rose in the United States.

In California, Grenache has taken on “new life” as it has found great success in the last 20-some years. New World winemakers and growers have adopted the grape (along with Syrah), producing what is referred to as “Rhone Rangers.” Manfred Krankl of Sine Qua Non and Alban Vineyards may be some of the finest examples of Grenache in California. Alban vineyards was the first important California winery to produce single-vineyard “Rhone” varietals, beginning a craze among other vintners as well as consumers. Krankl has fashioned ethereal wines from 100% Grenache that rival the greatest expression of Grenache in the world, earning him the title “California Cult” producer.

The varietal’s birthplace and most of Spain’s winegrowing regions have enjoyed great success with Grenache (Garnacha), where the varietal thrives in its natural elements of the hot and windy Mediterranean valleys. It ripens late with a long hang-time, so it needs hot, dry conditions. The long and deep roots are well suited to water stress, allowing for super concentrated flavors and aromas, especially with old vines. Spain has some of the finest Garnacha offerings as well as some of the least expensive in the world.

The incredible adaptability to areas of such inhospitable, dry and infertile soils is a mystical quality of Grenache. The world has been granted a gift, one that suits every budget and nearly every palate. From Chateauneuf-Du-Pape to Rose, to Cotes-Du-Rhone to Spanish Garnacha, the varietal has certainly earned its spot on the top of hot list.

Country France : Wine is the lifeblood that courses through the country of France, pulsing with vigorous pride and determination. Viticulture is not just a hobby or an occupation in France; it is a passion, a cherished tradition that has been passed down through generations of wine stained hands. Winemaking is a beloved art that has been ingrained in the culture, an aptitude instilled in sons by fathers and the hallmark for which France’s reputation was built, allowing it to be renowned as, arguably, the most important wine producing country in the world.



For centuries, France has been producing wines of superior quality and in much greater quantity than any other country in the world. It boasts some of the most impressive wine regions, coveted vineyards and prestigious wines on earth. The regions of Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rhone, Sauternes and Champagne have become the benchmark, for which others aspire to become. Legendary producers such as Chateaux Margaux, Domaine De La Romanee Conti, Chapoutier, d’Yquem and Dom Perignon are idolized world-wide.



France has stamped its name on nearly every style of wine, from the nectar-like sweet Sauternes to hedonistic Chateauneuf Du Papes classic Bordeaux and Burgundy, to its sparkling dominance in Champagne. Many of the most infamous grape varietals in the world, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay originated in France and are not only beloved, but utilized in the creation of some of the greatest wines on earth. French wine production commands the attention of the wine market year after year. With over 860,000 hectares under vine, and numbers close to 50 million hectoliters of wine produced annually, France dominates the market and sets the standard for not only product quality, but also quantity.



France’s many contributions to the world of wine have been absolutely indispensable. The country is the originator of the term “Premier Cru,” coined the term Terroir (a French term so complex there is no literal translation) and has laid the blueprint for a structured appellation system, which others have implemented in their own countries. French vineyard techniques and winemaking practices are mimicked world-wide. California vintners have been replicating Rhone style wines for decades, South America has adopted the French varietal of Malbec and countries around the world are imitating Burgundian styled Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.



With vast diversity in terroir, France is home to some of the most hospitable winegrowing locations on earth. The combination of topography, geology, climate, rainfall and even the amount of sunlight combined with the long historical tradition of winegrowing and making, has allowed the vintners of France to not only hone their skills, but learn from nature to create a product that like the world in which it resides… is very much alive.


Region Rhone : While the Northern Rhone produces only about 5% of all wine coming out of the Rhone Valley, the quality of these bottles is not to be underestimated. The terroir in this region is heavenly for growing Syrah, Viognier, Marsanne or Rousanne - the only permitted grapes in the AOC. Picture this - the Rhone flows through the valley like an azure thread piercing the landscape, a reflection of the dreamy skies hovering above the vineyards, ready to produce rainfall at a moment's notice. The rocky soil of the steep, almost surreal hillsides provides a bountiful feast for the grapevine roots. The flavors and texture of Northern Rhone wines tell you everything you need to know as soon as your lips touch the elixir, like a whisper in the vigorous valley winds

As per the Southern Rhone wine, it is like taking a plunge into a whirlpool of juicy flavor. Every sip explodes forward like a crashing tsunami, bathing your tastebuds in delicious aromas of prune, chocolate, grass, and black fruit. The wines are so compelling that it can be hard to drink them casually at a social event without getting lost in their intricate textures and emotional depths. Let's set sail together, and drink deep from these luxurious bottles with our friends and loved ones.
Subregion Chateauneuf du Pape

Overview

Producer Clos Saint Jean : The appellation of Chateauneuf-Du-Pape is teeming with rich terroir and proficient winemakers and growers who devote their lives to perfecting the art of their trade. Within this rocky and “fertile” wine growing region sits the La Crau plateau, which is known to host the vines that produce the greatest wines in all of Chateauneuf-Du-Pape. Sitting atop this plateau on 41 hectares of prime terroir dwells the vines of Clos Saint Jean.

The history of this mighty estate dates back to 1900 when it was created by Edmund Tacussel. Devoted to his cause and ambitious in nature, Tacussel began producing, bottling and selling his own wine within a decade of its creation. This was unusual given most Southern Rhone wine-growers at that time sold their harvest in bulk to negociants. Even more intriguing is this incredible feat occurred 13 years before the AOP (Area of d’Origine Protegee) of Chateauneuf-Du-Pape was created in 1923. Clos Saint Jean is one of the oldest estates in the appellation.

Despite its antiquity and the aspiring nature of Tacussel, Clos Saint Jean would produce ordinary, undistinguished Southern Rhone wines for nearly a century. The estate would finally earn fame with the release of its 2003 vintage, to which famous wine critic, Robert Parker enthusiastically stated, “This may well be one of the most exciting addresses not only in France, but in the entire world…. In short, these wines are not to be missed!” This outstanding praise has been mimicked and repeated by wine critics, reviewers and writers since 2003.

Brothers Vincent and Pascal Maurel and great grandsons of Edmund Tacussel took control of the family estate in 2002 and brought in Philippe Cambie as their consultant. Cambie, a highly regarded oenology consultant in Southern Rhone earned Robert Parker’s “Oenologist of the Year” award in 2010. Since 2003, the brothers with the assistance of Cambie have completely turned this previously unknown estate around. And… they have never looked back.

Around 60% of Clos Saint Jean’s vineyard is located on the famed La Crau Plateau, where the terroir is rich in iron-deposited red clays topped with the famous Rhone “galets.” These precious stones are vital to the health and vitality of the vine roots as they collect the sun’s rays during the day and ignite the soil with its heat overnight allowing a 24-hour nurturing cycle. Adjacent to the plateau, another 40% of its vines cultivate in alluvial clay and sandy soils. They also own a small parcel of Mourvedre in the lieu-dit of Bois-Dauphin, near Chateau Rayas, planted on sandy, limestone-rich soils.

The 41-hectare vineyard is planted with Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault, Vaccarese and Muscardin for the blending of their red Chateauneufs, while 1-hectare is reserved for their white and planted to Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and Clairette. Their Chateauneuf-Du-Pape portfolio is impressive and consistently receives highly-rated professional reviews. It consists of their Vieilles Vignes, which is sourced from old-vines located in and around La Crau and has an annual production of around 7,000 cases. Combe des Fous, humorously translates to “hill of fools,” which earns its moniker for the difficult terroir of rocks that are quite large. It was left barren for centuries because of the intense layer of “galets” which littered the landscape and was assumed inhospitable for vine growth. It sees around 500 cases produced each year.

Deus ex Machina is a blend of old-vine Grenache from La Crau and Mourvedre from the sandy soils of the Bois-Dauphin lieu-dit. Production is around 500 cases annually. Sanctus Sanctorium is made from 100% Grenache from their oldest vines, well over 100 years of age and produced only in the best vintages. It is bottled entirely in magnum format and is limited to just 350 magnums each year of production. Professional wine critic, Jeb Dunnuck claims it to be “one of the greatest cuvees on earth.” This is a wine of incredible elusiveness; the effort put forth in finding it is well worth it. Finally, their Chateauneuf-Du-Pape Blanc is produced from equal parts, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and Clairette. With only 1 hectare dedicated to these varietals, the production is quite limited and sees less than 350 cases annually.

Clos Saint Jean is considered by many critics and wine-writers as the preeminent estate espousing the modern style of winemaking in Chateauneuf. It has had an incredible awakening since the 2003 vintage and has stunned the world with its incredible and consistent release of rock star wines. “They are at the top of their game and producing some of the most singular, hedonistic and brilliant wines in the world,” states Jeb Dunnuck.

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