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2021 Scarecrow Cabernet Sauvignon

100 JD

Critic Reviews

Moving to the Grand Vin 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, red wine simply doesn’t get any better, and I never cease to be amazed at what winemaker Celia Welch accomplishes with this incredible terroir. Deep ruby/plum-hued, with a kaleidoscope-like array of cr me de cassis, jammy blackberries, spicy oak, graphite, and smoked tobacco, with a kiss of background chocolaty nuances, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a multi-dimensional, layered mouthfeel, ultra-fine tannins, and a flawlessly layered, concentrated, balanced profile that has to be tasted to be believed. Given its wealth of fruit and texture, as well as purity and balance, it already offers pleasure, yet smart money will give bottles 4-6 years in the cellar, count themselves lucky, and enjoy bottles over the following two decades.

Jeb Dunnuck | 100 JD
The 2021Cabernet Sauvignon, with 2% Petit Verdot and 2% Malbec in the blend, is deep garnet-purple in color. Very closed and broody to start off, it needs a lot of shaking to wake up profound notes of blackcurrant jelly, plum preserves, boysenberries, and cinnamon stick leading to an undercurrent of rosebud tea, anise, and incense. The medium to full-bodied palate is tightly wound with firm, grainy tannins and great tension perfectly framing the intense baking spice and mineral-laced black fruit flavors, finishing very long and fantastically complex. "We’ve been propagating more of our original old vine budwood - our own ’Cohn’ clone," said winemaker Celia Welch. "We don’t give out any of this budwood. All the Cohn clone vines go into the Scarecrow. 2021 was a beautiful but smaller vintage, with yields down 30-35%."

The Wine Independent | 100 TWI
The 2021 vintage of Scarecrow is a blend of 96% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Malbec, and 2% Petit Verdot, all harvested from the J.J. Cohn estate in Rutherford. Aged 21 months in 75% new French oak, bottled unfined and unfiltered. A seamless wine, it boasts a super dense core of bright, ripe blackberry and black cherry fruit framed by superfine, dusty-mineral-laced tannins. Lovely kirsch and dried currant fruit intermix with dried floral notes, grapefruit peel, and a long core of crushed stone minerals with hints of espresso beans and crunchy pomegranate seeds. It’s so fresh, with impressive density and a core of beautifully precise and sweet ripe fruit balanced by the persistence of its pure mineral character.

Decanter | 99 DEC
The 2021 Scarecrow is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from a vineyard on the western edge of Rutherford, nestled back against the Mayacamas range. Boasting a fabulous nose of deep, dark, black cherries and earthy-spicy notes accented by a touch of mocha-like oak, this full-bodied wine is ripe, rich and velvety. There’s ample density and concentration, but the wine still retains a sense of freshness on the long, elegant finish.

Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98+ RP
The 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon opens with captivating aromatics that are immediately alluring. Blackberry, camphor, dried herbs, incense, licorice, chocolate and lavender are so suggestive. On the palate, the 2021 is dark, brooding and quite mysterious. There’s a somber intensity to the 2021 that is incredibly appealing. Harvest took place over three weeks from September 5 to 26, and yields were down by nearly 50%. The more positive news is that the 2021 is one of the very finest Scarecrows in some time.

Vinous Media | 98 VM
This beautifully captures the vivid freshness of ’21’s fruit -- boysenberry, blackberry and mulberry puree -- while marrying it to a tug of Rutherford earth and an underpinning of iron, draping a beautiful gloss of anise, violet and apple wood–accented toast over everything. Showing great mouthfeel, definition and length, this wine offers it all. Best from 2025 through 2045. 1,600 cases made.

Wine Spectator | 97 WS

Wine Details for 2021 Scarecrow Cabernet Sauvignon

Type of Wine California Red : Whether it's Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah or Zinfandel, Californian red wine producers have a lovely habit of taking a varietal and expressing its essence in a unique, never before seen way. From Napa Valley to the regions south of Los Angeles, there's a red for everyone - and it's never too late to start exploring.
Varietal Cabernet Sauvignon : It is recognized worldwide, referred to as “king of grapes” and has easily become the most popular grape variety in the world. Cabernet Sauvignon has seemingly taken the world by storm. It has seen exponential growth and popularity in American and around the world over the past thirty years. The phrase “Cabernet is king,” is a common maxim in the world of wine. Cabernet Sauvignon wine has become so popular that when being referred to can be recognized by simple slang, such as “Cab” or “Cabernet. It might appear simple, straightforward and easily understood; yet, interestingly remains an enigma, which has both baffled and excited oenologists since its discovery.

The exact origin and circumstances of this world-altering event are still enigmatic; however, at the end of the 20th century, UC Davis Scientists (John Bowers and Carole Meredith) were able to solve part of the mystery using DNA fingerprinting technology that proved Cabernet Sauvignon to be the offspring of a surprising spontaneous crossing of Bordeaux varietals, Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc. By the 18th century there were already records of Cabernet Sauvignon being well-established on the west side of the Gironde Estuary (Left Bank) in the Medoc and Graves.

Although tremendously popular in California and what seems to have become the identity of Napa Valley winemaking, Cabernet Sauvignon’s birth took place in the Bordeaux region of southwest France by fortuitous unification. Whereas Napa Valley experienced a winemaking renaissance during the 1970’s and 1980s (greatly due to the 1976 Judgement of Paris) quality wine from the Cabernet Sauvignon grape has been produced in the Medoc, on the Left Bank of Bordeaux for over 400 years.

Cabernet Sauvignon’s first recorded plantings in California can be traced back to the 1850’s when Antoine Delmas, a French nurseryman, brought French vines (including one called ‘Cabrunet’) to the Santa Clara Valley. Early cultivation suffered due to obscurity of the varietal and improper planting in inhospitable soil. It wasn’t until pioneers such as Robert Mondavi, Randy Dunn and Warren Winiarski with their amazing foresight and understanding of terroir, would the grape variety finally find its niche in California winemaking.

Cabernet Sauvignon thrives in warm climates moderated by a cooling marine influence. It is perfectly attuned to gravel-based soils with good drainage. Whether on flat land or a hillside, the Cabernet Sauvignon grape flourishes in proper climates and terroir, producing incredible yields. The thick grapevine is extremely vigorous allowing it to exploit its natural host. Its distinctive small, black berries (reminiscent of blueberries) adhere firmly to the stalk and are capable of a very long “hang time.” These berries are extremely concentrated, producing intensely flavored fruit. The thick skins of the grape are characterized as having highly astringent flavor, high tannin, acidity and dark color. Coincidentally, the variety has a special affinity for oak, which helps soften the bitterness.

Today, the Noble Bordeaux varietal of Cabernet Sauvignon is planted on 340,000 hectares (741,300 acres) of vineyards across the earth’s surface. From Sicily to Sonoma, Chile to Bordeaux, South Africa to Napa. It has found symbiosis in terroir hotspots that mimic that of the Medoc and Napa Valley. Cabernet Sauvignon’s globetrotting has allowed the grape variety to take root all over the world, captivating its inhabitants and influencing winemaking. This serendipitous marriage between Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc centuries ago, which offered to the world its progeny, has changed the landscape of winegrowing, winemaking and the face of the entire wine market forever. It has influenced blending, changed civilization and has cultivated a place for itself in today’s world… the very pinnacle.

Country US : As one of the most prolific and innovative wine regions in the world, America is a joy to explore. Most wine connoisseurs will agree that the nation's finest and most compelling wines are being produced today, which means that we have front-row seats to one of the most inspirational stories in wine history. While other regions tend to focus on specific wine styles and have somewhat strict rules as to which varietals you could grow, areas like California have few such restrictions in place. As a result, creative visionaries behind America's most reputable estates have been able to develop compelling, unique, and innovative styles, with a level of terroir expression that rivals even France's largest giants.
Region California : With a history of wine production that dates back to the 18th century, California currently sits as one of the world's most prolific and reputable wine regions. With an area as vast as California, you can expect a colorful collage of terroir profiles, a series of microclimates, and micro-environments that give the wine a unique, memorable appeal. The region's produce is far from homogenized in that sense, and it would take you countless hours to sample all of it. While the region boasts scars from the Prohibition era, it went through what can only be described as a viticultural Renaissance sometime after the 1960s. At that point, California went from a port-style, sweet wine region to a versatile and compelling competitor on the world market. Today, no matter which way your taste in wine leans, you can find a new favorite producer among California's most talented.

Notable sub-regions include legendary names like Napa Valley and Sonoma County, places that any wine lover would die to visit. California's quintessential warm climate allows for incredibly ripe fruit expressions, a style that provides a stark contrast to Old World-inspired, earthy classics. Even where inspiration was clearly taken from staple French appellations, Californian winemakers put their own unique spin on the wine.
Subregion Napa Valley
Appellation Rutherford

Overview

Producer Scarecrow : The beloved book and cinematic masterpiece The Wizard of Oz has captivated both children and adults since its inception in 1900. This is the story of a misguided quest to find something that doesn’t exist in order to obtain what they already had. When Joseph Judson Cohn (J.J. Cohn) purchased a 180-acre parcel of land bordering the legendary vineyard of Inglenook winery (and what would later become the location of the now eminent Scarecrow vineyard) he had no ambitions to become a winemaker and was certainly not on a quest, as he had already found great success in Hollywood during the golden ages. But… like all things, Scarecrow has a story and it has a long, winding yellow brick road and its golden path to brilliance. And…. now, the wine and label of Scarecrow are captivating wine collectors and enthusiasts around the world with their alluring, ambiguous symbolism.

J.J. Cohn was instrumental in the making of Hollywood greats such as Ben Hur, Mutiny on the Bounty and of course, The Wizard of OZ. He purchased a 180-acre parcel of land bordering the infamous Inglenook winery in Napa Valley, which served as his summer retreat for him and his family away from the hustle and bustle of Los Angeles. In 1945, John Daniel Jr., neighbor and owner of Inglenook approached Cohn with a proposition, convincing him to plant 80 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon on the 180-acre parcel, with the promise to purchase the grapes. Cohn agreed, and as they say, the rest is history. Cohn’s unwitting brilliance in this scenario is seemingly reminiscent of the Scarecrow character from OZ.

The grapes cultivated on Cohn’s land would come to be of incredible quality, figuring prominently in Inglenook’s superlative Cabernet Sauvignon. J.J. Cohn Estate grapes would become highly sought after and has gone into wines of such renown as Opus One, Niebaum-Coppola, Duckhorn, Insignia and Etude. Sadly, the magnanimous J.J. Cohn passed away at the age of 100 in 1996, and his estate would eventually be sold. In a package deal, the property was purchased by Francis Ford Coppola and Bret Lopez (grandson of Cohn). Coppola would retain the majority of land, while Lopez secured 25 acres of his grandfather’s precious estate, which would become the official birth of Scarecrow.

Of the 25 acres, only two were from the original planting of 1945 Cabernet Sauvignon. Known as “the Old Men,” these vines would go on to become the backbone of Scarecrow. Lopez employed a team of incredibly talented individuals, from Celia Welch as winemaker to Michael Wolf as Vineyard Maker. Both had previous experience at prominent wineries, and have since been recognized for their mighty accomplishments at Scarecrow. The team would go on to produce its first vintage which debuted in 2003, gaining immediate popularity and becoming part of the “Cult Wine” phenomena.

The 100% Cabernet Sauvignon of Scarecrow hails from tremendous and highly coveted terroir in Napa Valley. The vineyard has perhaps the oldest vines in Napa. This small production wine is difficult to find, but offers a unique, tactile style of Cabernet Sauvignon that is worth the effort to seek out. Production greatly depends on the vintage, ranging anywhere from 312 cases (2004 vintage) to 2,000 cases (2018 vintage) annually. The wine is sold through mailing list only, usually sold out; there a list to get on that list, and another list after that. A second wine is produced at the estate and is named M. Etain, meaning “Tin Man” in French.

Today the Scarecrow label pays tribute to the endearing and indomitable character from the film. It evokes a distinctly American agricultural icon and American optimism. And most importantly, Scarecrow honors the remarkable life of J.J. Cohn, who lived 100 years, spanning a defining century that he helped to shape.

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