92-94 Point Wines

wines

(Domaine Marquis d’Angerville Volnay "Champans" 1er Cru Red) Remarkably this has changed relatively little since my initial in-bottle review amost 10 years ago as the ripe raspberry liqueur-like nose evidences hints of spice, violets, earth and underbrush. The vibrant, pure, round and naturally sweet medium-bodied flavors possess excellent intensity on the precise, powerful and mineral-driven finish. There is a beautiful tension to this wine and while there is a serious tannic backbone, this seems supple on the mid-palate because the structure is so well-buffered. This is still very much on the way up and should easily see its 50th birthday (and many more) in superb condition. As such I would strongly advise letting this beauty continue to slumber. (Drink starting 2025)Burghound | 94 BHOne of the three batches that will be blended to make up d ‘Angerville’s 2005 Volnay Champans was still in malo, so I base my assessment on the other two. Scented with cherry and cassis, flowers and fungus, smoke and chalk dust, this displays richness and depth, fine tannins and emerging silkiness, and a youthfully firm but long finish loaded with savory subtleties. Just give it 6-8 years before revisiting. (The outstanding d’Angerville 2004s were also very late to finish malo, and the Champans is especially memorable for its vivid sauteed champignons, alluring ginger spice, marrowy richness, and flattering mouth feel, indeed comparable in quality though lacking the developmental potential of this 2005. As a striking example of mercantile bipolar disorder, I purchased this outstanding 2004 for $49.99 from a merchant whose price on the 2005 thus represented a 350% premium!)Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RPGood full red. Reticent nose suggests cherry, licorice, flowers and truffle. Displays the copious sweetness of the vintage but with terrific focus and underlying spine. A stony, minerally pinot with real delicacy and cut. The long, noble finish offers a lovely combination of silk and stone and enticing lingering perfume. An archetypical Volnay that combines structure and charm: I wouldn’t be surprised if this merited an even higher score eight or ten years from now.Vinous Media | 93 VMRigid now, with cherry, mineral and smoke notes backed by burly tannins. Yet, it’s elegant in stature, concentrated and built for the long haul. Closed up already, but be patient. Best from 2014 through 2028. 150 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS(Marquis d’Angerville Volnay “Champans”) By all indications, this will be a great vintage for the Champans chez d’Angerville. This can often be one of the more recalcitrant young wines in the cellar, but it is showing remarkable refinement out of the blocks. The bouquet offers up notes of cherries, red berries, coffee, lovely minerality and a touch of spicy oak. On the palate the wine is deep, fullish and intensely flavored, with again simply striking purity, excellent focus and balance, and a long, moderately tannic and tangy finish. Fine juice. (Drink between 2012-2035)John Gilman | 92-93 JG

A superbly fresh and beautifully layered nose of cool red berry fruit, floral notes and wet stone, the latter of which is present in abundance on the rich yet beautifully detailed middle weight flavors brimming with minerality and energy, all wrapped in a focused, linear and precise finish of huge length, which remains at present youthfully austere. A classic Ducster that will require 10 to 12 years to be at its peak and readers should note that unlike some ’08s, this will not be especially approachable young.Burghound | 94 BHGame, leather, forest floor and black tea and peat smokiness are prominent in the nose of d’Angerville’s 2008 Volnay Clos Des Ducs in a way not approached by any of its siblings. Similarly, bittersweet, iris-like inner-mouth floral perfume lends a dimension dear to lovers of Volnay that was not in evidence in other d’Angerville 2008s, at least at this stage. These distinctions noted, there is red berry profusion here, too, and a sappy, energetic overall impression, encompassing a gripping finish, and with mineral diversity – chalk, salt, iodine, alkali, and I-don’t-know-what – that helps guarantee that this firmly and finely structured Volnay will remain dazzlingly complex, if handsomely lean, for the next 15 or more years.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPYoung and unevolved, this red delivers a core of pure cherry, raspberry and mineral notes that are buoyed by a lively structure. The tannins are there, yet they’re ripe, and the finish goes on and on, with a spicy aftertaste. Best from 2013 through 2024. 110 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WSThe 2008 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru is much more complex on the nose than the Champans, with brambly red fruit, a touch of loam developing with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, taut and crisp, tightly wound red fruit, still quite austere towards the finish, but it gains a little more flesh in the glass. Serious though, and I can see it continuing to age in bottle.Vinous Media | 90 VM

Tasted out of barrel at the Domaine. A little muted at first, the Bonnes-Mares suddenly wakes up in the glass and offers a taut, mineral rich bouquet with great definition. The palate is supple on the entry, a slight gourmand note on the back palate, building nicely with a slight savoury, sinewy finish with a digest if after taste. Tasted November 2010.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 91-93 RP-NM(Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Bonnes Mares Grand Cru Red) This is also quite restrained, indeed almost shy with a muted nose of dark berry fruit and earth that gives way to extremely fresh, supple and surprisingly forward flavors that almost instantly tighten up into a backwards and very firm and austere finish. This is a classically styled and proportioned Bonnes Mares that will require at least 15 years of cellar time. (Drink starting 2024).Burghound | 91-93 BH

The 2019 Beaune 1er Cru Grèves has turned out beautifully, bursting from the glass with aromas of plums, sweet berries, spices, woodsmoke and orange rind. Medium to full-bodied, ample and velvety, it’s a charming, lively wine that’s open and expressive out of the gates.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RP

The 2019 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Boudots 1er Cru, aged in 50% new oak, has an intense bouquet of floral and violet aromas joined by dark berry fruit and a touch of tobacco. The palate is medium-bodied and quite mineral-driven, with gentle grip and a savory, earthy, quite broody finish. This should be fascinating to watch evolve in bottle.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM(Domaine Georges Noëllat Nuits St. Georges "Les Boudots" 1er Cru Red) This is also notably ripe with its blend of plum, dark raspberry, range of spice elements and an exotic tea nuance. There is very good freshness and vibrancy to the delicious medium weight plus flavors that exude a discreet minerality on the dusty, moderately austere and firm but not rigid finale. This will need at least a few years to develop better depth and shed some of its tannic spine. (Drink starting 2029)Burghound | 89-92 BH

The 2019 Echézeaux Grand Cru (Domaine Louis Jadot) is very promising, exhibiting incipiently complex aromas of raspberries, cassis, candied peel, burning embers and potpourri, followed by a medium to full-bodied, charming and vibrant palate that’s broad and enveloping, with lively acids and fine, powdery structuring tannins.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RP(Maison Louis Jadot Echézeaux Grand Cru Red) A much spicier if less earthy nose is more deeply pitched with its aromas of poached plum, exotic tea, black cherry and a whiff of sandalwood. The round, supple and surprisingly forward mid-palate of the medium-bodied flavors contrasts immediately with the very firm, markedly powerful and moderately austere finish. This too is excellent and while it’s not a refined Echézeaux (examples from Les Rouges du Bas rarely are), it is not only imposing but offers fine development potential as well. (Drink starting 2036)Burghound | 92-95 BHThe 2019 Echézeaux Grand Cru has a pleasant bouquet of predominantly red fruit laced with cedar, autumn leaves and Earl Grey, gently unfolding in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and fine balance and poise. There is a slightly grainy texture toward a finish of modest length. This should evolve into a sedate but appealing Echézeaux.Vinous Media | 92-94 VM

The 2020 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has a very pure and quite precocious bouquet with black cherries, crushed violet and peony aromas, actually not unlike a Romanée-Saint-Vivant in style. Thet palate is succulent on the entry with candied orange peel infusing the mainly black fruit that merges into more red fruit towards the velvety finish. Quite gorgeous. (Drink between 2026-2048)Vinous Media | 94-96 VMA fresh and unusually expressive nose features notes of red and dark cherry, white pepper and a hint of kirsch. The delicious and intense middle weight flavors possess fine depth and persistence on the equally youthfully austere finale that is also sufficiently austere to easily repay 12+ years of cellaring. Fine quality here. (Drink starting 2032)Burghound | 92-94 BH

(Domaine Michel Magnien Clos St. Denis Grand Cru Red) A wonderfully layered nose is the most complex in the range with its blend of dark cherry, exotic tea, spice elements and lovely violet scents, all trimmed in just enough wood to merit mentioning. The refined and caressing middle weight flavors possess solid punch and excellent depth and persistent. This is at once classy and stylish and a wine that should age effortlessly on its balance. (Drink starting 2032)Burghound | 92-94 BH

A solid core of ruby purple. What a beautiful nose! Global warming says a friendly hello to cooler sites such as Les Barreaux. More oak this year because of the shortage of one year old barrels, and that shows a touch at the back at the moment but will all integrate. Very lively and extremely fine, with a greater depth of fruit than the Chambolle. The pinot fin plant selection is showing its class here. Drink from 2028-2035. Tasted: November 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JMThe 2022 Vosne-Romanée Les Barreaux, which Paul Gros said the family considers a Premier Cru close to Cros Parantoux and Richebourg, is based on poor shallow limestone soils. The nose takes time to open and evolves lovely raspberry and wild strawberry scents laced with oyster shells. The palate is medium-bodied with good substance on the entry. This is more structured than you might presuppose. It has a silver bead of acidity, and the finish feels pixelated for a Village Cru. Bon vin.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMAlthough this is slightly closed on the initial attack, there is a crisply refreshing high-toned fruit character (cranberry, raspberry, pomegranate), with notes of peony and spice. The texture is fresh, tannic and grippy, and the compact, expressive fruit has an admirably chiselled character. The wine is from 75-year-old vines planted at the top of the slope above Richebourg and Cros Parantoux — the ’baby Richebourg’ according to Anne Gros. This wine will drink well from three to five years after the vintage.Decanter | 93 DECIn contrast to the expressiveness of the prior wines, here the nose is firmly reduced and reveals nothing. More interesting are the fresh, vibrant and beautifully textured medium-bodied flavors that already possess solid depth and very fine length on the balanced if firmly structured finale. Lovely.Burghound | 89-91 BH