92-94 Point Wines

wines

The 2019 Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux Monts 1er Cru, matured in 80% new oak, has a very detailed, focused bouquet of blackberry, briar, raspberry jam and light orange peel aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly tarry opening, a smear of dark chocolate combining nicely with the dark berry fruit, but it is unapologetically backward and surly on the finish compared with the Echézeaux or the Vosne Les Chaumes, so give it some serious cellaring.Vinous Media | 93-95 VM(Domaine Georges Noëllat Vosne-Romanée "Les Beaux Monts" 1er Cru Red) A ripe but cool and even spicier nose offers up notes of anise and hoisin on the pretty aromas of black pinot fruit and violet nuances. The sleek, refined and beautifully detailed middle weight flavors are not especially dense though there is enough sap to buffer the moderately firm supporting tannins on the balanced finish. This isn’t quite as vibrant as the Petits Monts but it’s attractive in a riper fashion. (Drink starting 2029)Burghound | 89-92 BH

The 2019 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Boudots 1er Cru, aged in 50% new oak, has an intense bouquet of floral and violet aromas joined by dark berry fruit and a touch of tobacco. The palate is medium-bodied and quite mineral-driven, with gentle grip and a savory, earthy, quite broody finish. This should be fascinating to watch evolve in bottle.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM(Domaine Georges Noëllat Nuits St. Georges "Les Boudots" 1er Cru Red) This is also notably ripe with its blend of plum, dark raspberry, range of spice elements and an exotic tea nuance. There is very good freshness and vibrancy to the delicious medium weight plus flavors that exude a discreet minerality on the dusty, moderately austere and firm but not rigid finale. This will need at least a few years to develop better depth and shed some of its tannic spine. (Drink starting 2029)Burghound | 89-92 BH

This large 1.75ha holding is at the northern end of the lieu-dit, not far from Bonnes Mares, where it is planted in a terres blanches soil similar to the top of the slope. In 2019, the fruit has given a seductive result, with profuse raspberry aromas, a hint of ginger and liquorice. The texture on the palate shows plenty of extract, with sweet fruit but also a lovely depth and density. Drinking Window 2024 - 2049.Decanter | 95 DECThe 2019 Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras 1er Cru was showing a little more reduction than the Les Combottes, though not much, allowing black fruit laced with crushed stone and iris flower to emerge with aeration. The palate is beautifully defined with succulent, vibrant red and black fruit, hints of blood orange and a subtle irony tincture toward the graceful finish. An outstanding Les Cras. Just superb.Vinous Media | 93-95 VMRoumier’s 2019 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras unwinds in the glass with scents of cherries, smoky berry fruit, orange rind, Indian spices and dark chocolate. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and elegantly textural, it’s rich and concentrated, with powdery tannins, succulent acids and a perfumed finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-94 RPThis is definitely ripe yet again quite fresh with its overtly floral combination of cassis, poached plum, anise, rose petal and discreet wood-suffused aromas. Once again there is a really lovely texture to the more obviously mineral-driven flavors that culminate in a highly refreshing, chiseled and youthfully austere finale that delivers notably better length. Impressive stuff that should age effortlessly. (Drink starting 2031)Burghound | 93 BH

(Maison Philippe Pacalet Echézeaux Grand Cru Red) Here the nose is firmly reduced though it seems clear that the underlying fruit is definitely ripe. The sleek, delicious and relatively refined middle weight plus flavors possess good delineation on the unusually chalky, complex, youthfully austere, compact and beautifully long finish. This is also very much built-to-age though it’s not so structured that it could not be approached after 7 to 8 years. In a word, lovely. (Drink starting 2034)Burghound | 92-94 BHFrom the section of Echézeaux known as Clos St. Denis, 45-year-old vines are planted on southeast facing slopes in clay and limestone soils. The whole cluster vinification here provides a balanced, elegant wine, with bright red fruit and floral aromas, moderate weight, firm-ish tannins and an engaging elegance that should age well. Drinking Window 2021 - 2034.Decanter | 94 DEC

(Domaine du Clos Frantin (Nuits St. Georges) - Domaines Albert Bichot Chambertin Grand Cru Red) Here too there is enough wood to mention though not enough to be especially intrusive on the equally good and restrained nose that grudgingly offers up notes of red and dark cherry, sauvage, cool earth and a whiff of game. There is excellent intensity to the dense, powerful and muscular large-scaled flavors that exude an abundance of minerality on the austere, backward and sneaky long finish. This too needs to develop better depth, but the apogee of this wine is so far into the future that more is all but guaranteed to emerge with time. (Drink starting 2039).Burghound | 91-94 BHFrom 0.17 hectares of vine worked by horse and including a large proportion of whole bunch, the 2019 Chambertin Grand Cru has a fragrant bouquet of pure dark cherry, boysenberry, crushed stone and pressed violet aromas. It reminds me of a Clos de la Roche in some ways. The palate is well balanced with fine and quite sturdy tannins. It does not possess the sophistication of the preceding Grands-Echézeaux, but there is good energy on the finish. Very fine. Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

(Domaine François Lamarche La Grande Rue Grand Cru Red) An elegant mix of upper and medium register aromas centers mostly on the red side of the fruit spectrum along with hints of exotic tea, spice and pretty floral elements along with a hint of menthol. There is lovely detail and underlying tension to the moderately powerful medium-bodied flavors that possess plenty of punch on the dusty and youthfully austere finish that exhibits first-rate length. This beautifully balanced effort is a lovely combination of power and refinement and a wine that will also need extended aging though not as much as the Grands Ech. (Drink starting 2034).Burghound | 93-95 BHThis 1.65ha Lamarche monopole next to La Tâche was planted 40 years ago. Lamarche has destemmed the fruit and gently fermented this with an eye toward restraint, before ageing over two winters in cask (80% new). The result has a seductive, pronounced red and black fruit character on the attack, with notes of liquorice and smoke. The wine has pleasant heft, but there are no rough edges or heaviness and the substantial extract is balanced by good, fresh acidity. Lovely in every respect. Drinking Window 2024 - 2049.Decanter | 95 DECThe 2019 La Grande Rue Grand Cru is aromatically tailored in a similar vein to the domaine’s other Grand Crus: ethereal and floral in style with rose-petal-infused red fruit, the quintessential Pinoté, and hints of crushed rock developing with time. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins, cohesive and poised, gaining weight with aeration toward a very pixelated finish and leaving a ferrous aftertaste. Very fine, very feminine.Vinous Media | 92-94 VM

The 2019 Echézeaux Grand Cru (Domaine Louis Jadot) is very promising, exhibiting incipiently complex aromas of raspberries, cassis, candied peel, burning embers and potpourri, followed by a medium to full-bodied, charming and vibrant palate that’s broad and enveloping, with lively acids and fine, powdery structuring tannins.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RP(Maison Louis Jadot Echézeaux Grand Cru Red) A much spicier if less earthy nose is more deeply pitched with its aromas of poached plum, exotic tea, black cherry and a whiff of sandalwood. The round, supple and surprisingly forward mid-palate of the medium-bodied flavors contrasts immediately with the very firm, markedly powerful and moderately austere finish. This too is excellent and while it’s not a refined Echézeaux (examples from Les Rouges du Bas rarely are), it is not only imposing but offers fine development potential as well. (Drink starting 2036)Burghound | 92-95 BHThe 2019 Echézeaux Grand Cru has a pleasant bouquet of predominantly red fruit laced with cedar, autumn leaves and Earl Grey, gently unfolding in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and fine balance and poise. There is a slightly grainy texture toward a finish of modest length. This should evolve into a sedate but appealing Echézeaux.Vinous Media | 92-94 VM

The 2019 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru demonstrates a little more amplitude than the Clos de la Roche because of the one-third stem addition. It is exquisitely defined, offering precise black fruit laced with melted tar and graphite notes, and wonderful focus. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins framing the judiciously spiced black fruit that segues into a very harmonious, grippy finish. This is one of Jadot’s best cuvées this vintage. Vinous Media | 95-97 VMA plethora of spice nuances are present on the emphatically floral-suffused nose of red raspberry, earth and a whiff of exotic tea, all of which is trimmed in wood and menthol nuances. The plump, round and highly seductive flavors possess both good mid-palate density and a very sophisticated mouthfeel that continues onto the relatively powerful and highly persistent finale. The intrinsic class of a fine CSD is very much present and this is seriously impressive. Burghound | 93-96 BHThe 2019 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru (Domaine Gagey) offers up notes of cherries, red berries, rose petals, raw cocoa, espresso roast and sweet soil tones. Full-bodied, layered and muscular, it’s rich and dramatic, with an enveloping core of fruit and ripe, refined tannins.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95+ RPFrom vines in the original heart of Clos-St-Denis belonging to the Gagey family, this is produced with 50% whole clusters, producing complex aromatics that range from red and black fruit to hints of mineral, menthol and smoke. The texture is very fine and delicate, with impressive length and great elegance. This drinks well now and should only improve with some time in the bottle. Drinking Window 2021 - 2025.Decanter | 95 DEC

The 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has wonderful transparency on the nose of red currant and wild strawberry, plus glimpses of orange blossom and rose petal. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, lightly spiced and quite peppery in the mouth. Fine grip and length. This is a lovely Lavaux that will be difficult to resist in its youth.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMThe 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques is promising, mingling aromas of cassis and smoky berries with hints of loamy oil, raw cocoa and potpourri. Medium-bodied, bright and lively, with a succulent core of fruit framed by ultra-refined tannins, it concludes with a long, perfumed finish. This is the highest-alcohol wine in the cellar in 2019, but that certainly didn’t stand out in the glass.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RPModerate reduction dominates the underlying fruit today. Otherwise there is very good volume and intensity to the tautly muscular and serious medium-bodied flavors that brim with minerality while exhibiting excellent depth and persistence on the well-balanced and mildly austere finale. This is firm but not as firm as it usually is though with that said, it will still need 10 to 12 years of cellaring.Burghound | 90-93 BH

The 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers is very promising, mingling notes of rose petals and wild berries with hints of loamy soil, sweet spices and a discreet application of new oak. Medium to full-bodied, layered and textural, it’s fleshy and enveloping, with lively acids and a suave, elegant profile. This is well worth seeking out.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 1er Cru comes from all four soil profiles in the vineyard – the only producer to have the "complete set." The generous bouquet presents red cherry and wild strawberry fruit, crushed stone and light tobacco scents. The palate is medium-bodied and fleshy, with supple tannins, black pepper and a touch of sage toward the finish. Very fine.Vinous Media | 93 VM(Domaine Henri Magnien et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin "Les Cazetiers" 1er Cru Red) An overtly sauvage and intensely earthy nose features mostly dark currant aromas that are trimmed in moderate wood. The energetic bigger-bodied medium weight flavors possess fine depth and mid-palate concentration while terminating in a powerful, serious, dusty and mildly austere finish. This markedly mineral-driven effort is a classically styled Caz and while it’s not as concentrated as the 2020 version, it still has the stuffing to amply reward a decade plus of cellaring. (Drink starting 2031)Burghound | 93 BH

Notes of ripe wild berries, loamy soil, exotic spices, smoked duck and rose petals introduce the 2019 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru, a full-bodied, rich and muscular wine with an ample core of fruit, powdery tannins and lively acids. This is shaping up very well indeed.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RP(Domaine Follin-Arbelet Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru Red) Once again the wood treatment is perceptible though it remains sufficiently subtle to not interfere with the appreciation of the very ripe aromas of roasted plum, cassis, violet and lovely array of exotic spice elements. The surprisingly full-bodied flavors are bigger than what is typical for RSV yet though the extra size and weight does not significantly compromise the refinement of the serious, mouthcoating and lingering finish where the only nit is noticeable warmth. While not quite as structured as the Bressandes, this too is going to need extended cellaring to arrive at its peak. (Drink starting 2034)Burghound | 91-94 BH

The 2019 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru is turning out nicely, wafting from the glass with aromas of sweet berry fruit and plums complemented by hints of smoked meats, preserved citrus, warm spices and raw cocoa. Medium to full-bodied, supple and charming, it’s pretty and fine-boned, with good depth at the core, velvety tannins and a seamless, enveloping profile. This is another cuvée that I suspect will turn out to be Rousseau’s finest rendition since at least 2012.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-94 RP(Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru Red) Discreet but perceptible wood sets off pretty and nicely layered aromas of red currant, forest floor, spice and a suggestion of warm earth character. There is excellent intensity to the detailed, palate coating and sappy medium-bodied flavors that are firm, powerful and unusually robust on the refined, focused and sneaky long finish. There is very good size and weight, yet the overall impression is rather one of refinement. (Drink starting 2034)Burghound | 91-94 BHThe 2019 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru is very perfumed on the nose of rose-petal-infused red berry fruit, although I would like to see more complexity develop in bottle. The palate is medium-bodied with candied red fruit on the entry, orange zest, and light, almost peachy notes that I would associate with a white wine. It does not possess the substance or grip of Rousseau’s other cuvées, although it does deliver a lovely silky texture and fine length.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

The 2019 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru opens in the glass with rich aromas of berry fruit, loamy soil, peonies, dark chocolate and cedar. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and elegantly muscular, it’s generous and enveloping, with velvety tannins and fine depth at the core. Bright and lively, it’s another wine that marries maturity with freshness.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPThe 2019 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru is highly perfumed on the nose, presenting an irresistible mixture of red and subtle blue fruit, very harmonious and exquisitely defined. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins. A feminine and very elegant Clos de la Roche that may well be earlier-drinking than others but feels very poised, with a touch of spice on the finish. Excellent.Vinous Media | 93-95 VMProduced from three parcels: two in the original Clos de la Roche vineyard and almost 1ha in Les Fremières. Aged in used casks like the producer’s Charmes, this has a very different character, with dark, plummy fruit alongside an earthy note on the nose, and a texture that is less firm perhaps, but broader and more full-bodied. Very solid. Drinking Window 2024 - 2059.Decanter | 95 DEC(Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Clos de la Roche Grand Cru Red) Here too there is just enough wood to remark upon surrounding the well-layered blend of red and blue pinot fruit, earth and a plenitude of spice and floral elements. The wonderfully energetic, sleek and equally muscular larger-scaled flavors also brim with minerality on the refined, focused, balanced and even more persistent finish. This is terrific and a wine that should easily repay two decades of cellaring if you have the patience. (Drink starting 2036)Burghound | 92-95 BH

The 2019 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru is the usual blend of vineyards: two-thirds in Charmes-Chambertin itself and one-third in Mazoyères. It contains 60% whole bunch and 66% new oak. Very generous and opulent on the nose of dark cherries plus hints of baked gingerbread and clementine; this is very intense. The palate is medium-bodied with a structured opening. The Mazoyères component feels more influential than the Charmes, and the grippy, overtly saline finish does not want to let go. This will be fascinating to watch develop. I love the sense of control throughout.Vinous Media | 94-96 VM(Domaine Dugat-Py Charmes-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru Red) A markedly floral nose is quite pretty with its array of earth, liqueur-like dark berries and lovely spice wisps. There is again outstanding volume to the beautifully textured large-scaled flavors that exude a bracing salinity on the sneaky long and well-balanced if overtly austere finale that displays absolutely stunning length. Here too plenty of patience will be required. (Drink starting 2037)Burghound | 96 BHAromas of orange rind, red cherries, plums, licorice, spices and peonies introduce the 2019 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, a full-bodied, ample and layered wine that’s deep and concentrated, with a generous core of fruit, melting tannins and a long, rose-inflected finish. As ever, this is the domaine’s most immediate, sensual grand cru.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RP

This is quite ripe though not flat with its combination of backed plum, warm earth, spice and whiffs of the sauvage. The rich and relatively full-bodied flavors possess good if not special density as well as focused power on the sappy, austere and highly persistent finish. I suspect that this very firm effort will age slowly and deliberately but should very much be worth the wait. (Drink starting 2034)Burghound | 92-95 BH

The 2019 Marsannay Clos de Jeu is limpid in color. It presents an enticing mix of red and black fruit, rose petal and violet aromas. The palate is fleshy on the entry with fine grip, and quite saline, leading to a lovely savory finish. Excellent.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM(Domaine Joseph Roty Marsannay "Les Clos du Jeu" Villages Red) An even more complex nose offers up markedly ripe yet fresh notes of herbal tea, forest floor, plum, red and dark raspberry, violet and earth, all of which is trimmed in nuances of wood. The succulent and slightly bigger-bodied flavors possess a plush mid-palate mouthfeel along with good minerality, all wrapped in an impressively complex and persistent finish. While this possesses even denser tannins, the borderline creamy mouthfeel should permit this beauty of a Marsannay to be approachable after only 5 to 7 years of bottle age. Well worth considering. (Drink starting 2027)Burghound | 92 BHThe 2019 Marsannay Clos de Jeu offers up aromas of cherries, raspberries and loamy soil, framed by a deft touch of oak. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and seamless, it’s supple and layered, uniting upfront charm with aging potential.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RP(Marsannay “Clos de Jeu”- Domaine Joseph Roty) The Clos de Jeu will also be promoted eventually to premier cru and it too is showing its lovely potential in this 2019 bottling from Domaine Roty. The nose jumps from the glass in a complex blend of sweet dark berries, black cherries, smoked meats, a touch of licorice, a fine base of soil tones, woodsmoke and a touch of new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and tangy in personality, with a rock solid core of fruit, lovely mineral drive and grip, well-integrated tannins and a long, complex finish. Fine, fine juice. (Drink between 2027-2050)John Gilman | 91+ JG