92-94 Point Wines

wines

Dark ruby color. Decadent aromas of meat, figs and ripe fruit. Full-bodied, with a very good, compacted, fruity structure and a long, long, ripe fruit and earth finish. This is a seriously good bottle. Great value. Love it.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

Good medium color, less saturated than the ’95. Pungent, vibrant aromas of sappy berries and resiny oak, with an intriguing floral nuance. At once thick and polished on the palate, with an herbal, peppery complexity. Very long, subtle aftertaste, with some vanillin oak and a slight tannic edge. Not quite as ripe or seamless as the ’95, but a very classy, intensely flavored wine that should put on weight in bottle.Vinous Media | 92 VM

The 1999 La Conseillante is probably unfairly over-shadowed by the superb 1998. It has a less expressive bouquet than the previous vintage, yet it remains fresh and vital with red fruit, iron piping, truffle and wilted rose petal aromas that discretely unfold in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied and very harmonious. The acidity is just right, allowing the lightly spiced, truffle-tinged fruit to express themselves. It does not possess the depth and length of the 1998 and yet there is an effortless quality to this La Conseillante that means it gives so much pleasure. Very fine. Tasted at La Conseillante vertical at the property.Vinous Media | 91 VM

(Maison Louis Jadot Echézeaux Grand Cru Red) Strong oak spice presently dominates the nose with round, sweet, rich and impressively complex flavors that deliver stunning length. This is quite a powerful wine yet there is almost no rusticity and I very much like the obviously high quality material. As with several wines in the range, my score awards the benefit of the doubt regarding the oak. (Drink between 2009-2017).Burghound | 90-93 BHJadot’s parcel of Echezeaux is located in a steep sector of the vineyard known as Les Rouges, requiring that it be worked with horses as tractors cannot cope with the slope’s gradient. The 2002’s enthralling nose displays cherries, flowers, spices, and raspberries. Medium-bodied and refined, this is a concentrated, deep wine with an intensely spicy core of red fruits, violets, and minerals. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2017.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RPRed-ruby. Precise, perfumed aromas of black raspberry, violet and minerals. Highly aromatic in the mouth, with very dark flavors of blackberry, cassis, licorice and violet. Finishes firmly tannic and very long, with perfumed notes of violet pastille and spice. Aromatically expressive wine that should be accessible relatively early, even if it has the structure to last well in bottle.Vinous Media | 90-93 VM

Wonderful balance of fruit with currant and chocolate character. Full body with integrated tannins and a clean finish. Polished and refined. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 92 JSThis attractive deep ruby/plum/purple wine is supple, with notes of loamy soil, earth, underbrush and black and red currants. Very fragrant and medium-bodied, with relatively sweet tannin, this wine should continue to drink well for another 10-15+ years.Robert Parker | 90 RPThe 2005 du Tertre is a bold, savory wine, as it so often is. Game, scorched earth, licorice, tobacco and dried herbs give this dark, virile Margaux much of its distinctive personality. The 2005 has aged well. I would prefer to drink it over the next handful of years, before the fruit fully fades, even though there is enough density to allow for aging beyond that. Structurally, du Tertre is a bit lighter than most Margaux in 2005.Vinous Media | 90 VM

This is a beautiful Giscours with tension and finesse. It’s full-bodied and shows plenty of berry and spice character, not to mention a long, silky-textured finish. It seduces you with each sip. Why wait?James Suckling | 95 JSThis chateau gets better and better. The wine has power, but it is harnessed by the intense fruits, the blackberry flavors, the density and the wood. With the power, though, comes elegance, resulting in a wine that is ready to develop over many years.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEThis is a powerful wine with good ageing potential. The nose is ripe and creamy with plenty of dark fruit and spice complexity. The palate is rich, full and gourmand with Cabernet-cassis notes coming through. There’s a big tannic frame that shows the more masculine side of this Margaux. The finesse may be missing but there’s a lot of wine here. Drinking Window 2021 - 2040.Decanter | 94 DECThe 2005 Giscours captures all the natural radiance of the year in its stylish, racy personality. Sweet tannins wrap around a core of sweet red berry fruit, kirsch, rose petal, mint, spice and blood orange. Soft, curvy and sensual, Giscours is a winner in 2005. It doesn’t quite offer the grandeur of the very finest Left Bank 2005s, but it has plenty of that richness.Antonio Galloni | 93 AGDisplays blackberry, cherry and hints of sweet tobacco. Full-bodied, with soft, velvety tannins and a long, caressing finish. Very pretty and solid. This is structured and chewy. Needs time. Best after 2013. 20,830 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WSTasted at the Château Giscours vertical, the 2005 Château Giscours is a blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon and 38% Merlot picked between September 22 and October 6. Conspicuously deep in color, both the aromatics and palate replicate the strong performance from earlier this year. The bouquet offers very fine intensity with blackberry and cedar, here a tinge of cassis that becomes accentuated with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, slightly grainy tannin. It is very well balanced and almost Saint Julien in style. It is clearly very focused with a sustained, mineral-rich finish that (as I said before) contains real energy. This is an excellent Giscours that will age nicely over the next 20-25 years. Tasted June 2015.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 92 RP-NM

A Bordeaux that seems to have a Burgundian personality, L’Arrosée’s 2005 displays elegance and finesse, with sweet black cherry and blackcurrant fruit, hints of minerality and earth, but soft tannin, a lush, medium-bodied style, and impressive concentration, purity and overall texture. By no means a blockbuster (in a vintage that produced almost endless numbers of them), this wine can be drunk now or cellared for another 15-20 years.Robert Parker | 91 RPDisplays rich, impressive aromas of toasty oak, coffee and meat, with fruity undertones. Full-bodied, with a spicy, fruity palate. There’s lots of coffee, meat and berry character on the finish. Balanced and very pretty. Best after 2012. 2,915 cases made.Wine Spectator | 91 WSMedium red. Sexy aromas of redcurrant, graphite and smoky, nutty oak. Supple, lush and soft but with harmonious acidity giving shape to the currant and smoke flavors. One senses some thoroughly ripe cabernet here. Finishes with sweet tannins, lingering red fruits and good cut. The best vintage in a long time for this chateau.Vinous Media | 90 VM

(Marquis d’Angerville Volnay “Fremiets”) The 2005 Fremiets is also showing atypically black fruity in character, but also offers simply striking focus and purity as well. The bouquet is a mélange of black cherries, plums, bitter chocolate and a truly great expression of minerality. On the palate the wine is medium-full, deep and intensely flavored, with rock solid structure, a sappy core of fruit, and stunning grip on the long, soil-driven and ripely tannic finish. Truly a fine vintage for the Fremiets. (Drink between 2012-2030)John Gilman | 92 JG(Domaine Marquis d'Angerville Volnay Frémiets 1er Cru Red) This is more discreet and reserved with wonderfully pure notes of red, black and blue fruits plus a lovely hint of violets that sit atop dusty, refined and gorgeously delineated flavors supported by an almost pungent minerality on the textured, long and explosive finish. This is more concentrated and structured than usual and should live for a very long time. (Drink starting 2013)Burghound | 91-93 BH

(Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair Nuits St.-Georges Les St. Georges 1er Cru Red) This is primary to the point of being overtly grapey with an interesting mix of intense earth and game nuances that merge into solidly structured middle weight flavors that possess outstanding length and real depth. As good as the Petits Monts is, there is another dimension here. (Drink starting 2015)Burghound | 90-93 BHFrom substantial holdings planted with old vines, the Thibault Liger-Belair 2005 Nuits-St.-Georges Les St.-Georges displays both roasted, charred and raw red meatiness to a degree unusual for a Nuits-St.-Georges. Ripe black cherry and blackberry are also very much present, but this wine is not about sweetness of fruit. Substantial, firm but finely-tannic and formidably concentrated, it finishes with dark, faintly bitter berries, roasted meats, beef blood, a soy-like savor, and an intense yet hard to describe minerality. The wine tastes like something one should if anemic. Heady yet not hot in its nearly 15% alcohol, palpable extract rich and thick yet not leaden, it will need at least 5-7 years, I suspect, if it is to be tamed and refined at all. (The 2004, incidentally, was also powerful if very slightly lower in alcohol and displayed intriguing potential.)In this his fourth vintage, and (like his cousin at Comte Liger-Belair in Vosne-Romanee) young, ambitious in the pursuit of quality, well-traveled, and in the process of taking back family property from rental and negociant contracts, Thibault Liger-Belair is ensconced in deep, ancient, and bitterly-cold cellars in the center of Nuits-St.-Georges. He has begun pursuing a biodynamic regimen in his vineyards and has inaugurated a rigorously-controlled negociant arm (its wines labeled “Thibault Liger-Belair Successeurs” and designated “S” in my listings). He says he approached 2005 with great caution lest the wines lose polish and finesse to over-extraction of tannins. Certainly the results have included some very powerful and formidably structured wines. Low sulfur and a significant inclusion of whole clusters (“depending on the circumstances and site,” he says, “- I have no system”) are among other prominent features of Liger-Belair’s approach in 2005.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RP(14.8% alcohol; vinified with 30% whole clusters) Bright red-ruby. Superripe aroma of black raspberry liqueur. Fat, sweet and powerful; a big, chocolatey-rich wine that retains freshness yet comes across as a bit heavy. Will make a major mouthful but today I don’t find the near-grand cru class of the best examples from this vineyard.Vinous Media | 89-92 VM

From the same stable as Mouton Rothschild and d’Armailhac, Clerc Milon, despite the relatively high percentage of Merlot (44%) combined with 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and the balance Cabernet Franc, is dense, rich, tannic, and backward. Surprisingly muscular for this offering, which often exhibits a more precocious side, it offers up abundant amounts of creme brulee, chocolate, cedar, and black currants. This full-bodied Pauillac displays gorgeous purity and depth as well as moderately high tannins in the finish. Because of its freshness, structure, and density, it is reminiscent of a 1996 Medoc. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2028.Robert Parker | 91+ RPOffers a gorgeous nose of crushed blueberry and cream, with a hint of milk chocolate. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a pretty finish. Best after 2014. 15,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 91 WSAromas of currants and dark berries with hints of minerals. Full body with super-integrated tannins and a slightly austere and intense tannin backbone. But it’s pretty and attractive. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 90 JSBright ruby-red. Expressive aromas of currant, tobacco, graphite, herbs, roast coffee and smoky oak. Supple, solid and broad, with a mouthfilling fleshiness leavened by good energy and vinosity. There's a medicinal reserve to the redcurrant and dark chocolate flavors. Finishes broad and long, with substantial dusty tannins and very good length. A more muscular style than Armailhac, also from the team at Mouton-Rothschild, and in need of at least five years of cellaring.Vinous Media | 90 VMRounded, relatively soft wine, but one that shows balance. Sweet fruit plays with black currant acidity, giving density, even if the tannins are lightweight. Clerc-Milon, made by the team that also produces Mouton-Rothschild, has become a delicious Pauillac.Wine Enthusiast | 90 WE

A wine that succeeds in combining great depth of flavor and structure with an impressive array of flavors. On top of the tannins is juicy black fruit, cocoa, a welter of spice and ripeness. The acidity and new wood put the wine into a more modern style. Wait for at least 5–7 years.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEIt could be easy, after tasting the monumental 2005, to dismiss the 2006 Troplong Mondot, but don’t be so foolish. Proprietress Christine Valette has turned out another exceptional performance. Of course, this is not the 2005- a singular vintage that will be difficult to duplicate in a 20-30 year span, but the 2006 Troplong Mondot is an impressive, powerful, broad, surprisingly masculine and deep effort. Its inky/blue/purple color is accompanied by an exceptional bouquet of powdered rock, blackberries, blueberries, spring flowers, and hints of camphor as well as espresso roast. The wine is full-bodied with a layered, multidimensional texture, sensational purity and structure, and elevated levels of tannin, concentration, and richness. Forget it for 7-8 years, and drink it over the following 20-25 years.Robert Parker | 93 RPBright, deep ruby-red. Brooding aromas of crushed blueberry, bitter chocolate and roast coffee. Rich, broad and sweet, with an almost liqueur-like ripeness of dark berries leavened by brisk acidity and firm minerality. Lots of lift and life here for such a lush, creamy wine. Finishes with big, sweet, building tannins and terrific palate-staining length. This should enjoy a long evolution in bottle.Vinous Media | 93 VMA number of 2006 Bordeaux are showing well today, and that is certainly the case with the 2006 Troplong Mondot. Taking about an hour of air to show at its best, its ruby/plum hue gives way to a classic Saint-Emilion offering ample red and black currant fruits, tobacco leaf, bouquet garni, chocolate, and loads of chalky minerality. Rich, full-bodied, and beautifully textured, this powerful 2006 has surprising structure yet more than enough fruit. Mature, but certainly on the early slopes of its drinking plateau, it’s going to evolve gracefully for another two decades or more.Jeb Dunnuck | 93 JDCoffee, cedar, blackberry and tobacco aromas follow through to a tight, powerful palate. This is full yet very reserved, with silky, polished tannins. Best after 2014. 5,330 cases made.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

(Domaine Anne-Françoise Gros Richebourg Grand Cru Red) Very generous wood fights somewhat at present with the cool, spicy and highly complex nose of red currant, plum and violet aromas that is very much in keeping with the equally spicy rich, full-bodied and tautly muscled flavors that display ample minerality on the balanced, long and linear finish. This is a very serious effort with fine but dense tannins that will require 15 to 20 years for them to fully resolve so this isn’t a precocious Riche. (Drink starting 2023)Burghound | 91-94 BHSurpassing the 2007, Anne Gros’s 2008 Richebourg Grand Cru is showing very well, unfurling in the glass with scents of cassis, cherries, dried flowers, grilled meats and spices. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, ample and nicely concentrated, with melting tannins, racy acids that are elegantly cloaked in succulent fruit and a long, penetrating finish. It makes for dramatic, head-turning drinking today, so there seems little reason to wait.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP(Richebourg- Domaine A-F. Gros) The 2008 Richebourg from A-F. Gros is fairly oaky, but with its wood much better integrated into the main body of the wine on both the nose and palate and posing no threat to the ultimate balance of the wine. The classy nose jumps from the glass in a blend of plums, black cherries, cocoa powder, orange zest, woodsmoke and spicy new wood. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and nicely transparent, with a fine core of fruit, ripe tannins and fine length and grip on the youthful finish. There is plenty of wood in this wine, but it is seamlessly integrated already and does not detract at all from the overall pleasure that the wine delivers. A very good example. (Drink between 2018-2040)John Gilman | 92+ JG

Tasted out of barrel at the Domaine. A little muted at first, the Bonnes-Mares suddenly wakes up in the glass and offers a taut, mineral rich bouquet with great definition. The palate is supple on the entry, a slight gourmand note on the back palate, building nicely with a slight savoury, sinewy finish with a digest if after taste. Tasted November 2010.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 91-93 RP-NM(Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Bonnes Mares Grand Cru Red) This is also quite restrained, indeed almost shy with a muted nose of dark berry fruit and earth that gives way to extremely fresh, supple and surprisingly forward flavors that almost instantly tighten up into a backwards and very firm and austere finish. This is a classically styled and proportioned Bonnes Mares that will require at least 15 years of cellar time. (Drink starting 2024).Burghound | 91-93 BH

This wine has closed down somewhat since I had it from barrel and exhibits a firm, earthy, mineral-laced style. Made from 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, the ripe black raspberry and blueberry fruit are present, along with some sandy, loamy soil notes. The tannins are sweet, but very elevated, and the wine rich and long but currently somewhat austere and needing bottle age. Give it 2 or 3 years of cellaring and drink it over the following 15+ years.Robert Parker | 90+ RP

Deep garnet in color, the 2010 du Tertre sashays out of the glass with pretty notions of black tea, fragrant soil, wilted roses and kirsch over a cassis and blackberry pie core. Medium to full-bodied, the palate has bright, vibrant, crunchy fruit with a firm, grainy texture and bags of freshness, finishing with great length and energy.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPThe 2010 du Tertre soars out of the glass with blackberry, sous-bois and light mint aromas. Good definition here and nicely focused. The palate is medium-bodied with supple but quite firm tannins, a welcome sprinkling of cracked black pepper and an off-dry finish that feels long and persistent. Superb. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners 10-Year On Bordeaux horizontal.Vinous Media | 93 VMA plush and flattering style, with beguiling toast wound around a smoldering core of warm plum confiture, dark cherry and currant fruit, and buried hints of charcoal and espresso. Displays a polished finish overall. A hint of warm paving stone lurks in the background. Best from 2014 through 2026. 9,167 cases made. — JMWine Spectator | 92 WSLots of blackberries and blueberries on the nose. Full body, with chewy tannins that are polished and ripe. Tar and mushroom undertones on the finish. Excellent Tertre. Try in 2018.James Suckling | 92 JSRipe, dense and smooth from wood aging, this is a modern view of Margaux. At the same time, it shows a beautiful black-currant flavor from the Cabernet Sauvignon, and the Petit Verdot adds great color.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE

A balanced young wine, with smoky, blackberry and chewy aromas and flavors. Full and velvety, with a fresh finish.James Suckling | 92-93 JSDeep garnet in color, the 2010 Haut Bages Liberal is a bit subdued to begin, unfurling to offer glimpses at mature stewed plums and warm figs scents with touches of mossy tree bark, unsmoked cigars and truffles. Medium-bodied, the palate delivers lovely freshness and well-managed, approachable tannins, finishing on a mineral note.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RPThe wine from this chateau, whose vines touch those of Latour, is solid and dense, with a sense of severity that is often the hallmark of this fifth growth. It is dark and the fruits whisper in the distance. This needs to age for several years. Wine Enthusiast | 91 WEThe 2010 Haut-Bages Libéral does not quite convey the same lift on the nose as its peers, not as cohesive. There is a very slight metallic element underneath the black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, good acidity, plenty of tertiary black fruit with a liberal sprinkling of cracked black pepper on the slightly raw finish. Fresh, but I was expecting more from this cru. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners 10-Year On Bordeaux horizontal.Vinous Media | 90 VMDark in profile and rather stolid, with a beam of currant, plum and fig allied to a prominent iron shaft that clamps down on the charcoal-textured finish. Showing rather austerely today, but has the length and cut to develop in the cellar. Best from 2015 through 2025. 8,500 cases made.Wine Spectator | 90 WSThe 2010 Château Haut-Bages Libéral is a ripe and powerful example of this consistently fine estate, as the wine weighs in at 13.7 percent alcohol in this vintage. However, the wine shows no signs of overripeness on either the nose or palate, as it delivers a bouquet of cassis, sappy black cherries, cigar smoke, soil, espresso and cedary new wood. On the palate the wine is deep, fullish and impressively pure, with a fine core of fruit, moderate tannins, tangy, well-integrated acids and very good length and grip on the nascently complex finish. A fine example. (Drink between 2020 - 2050)John Gilman | 90+ JG

This is more precise and focused with black truffle and berry. Full body, layered and refined. Beautiful freshness and form. Framed.James Suckling | 97 JSThis takes the power of the vintage and puts it in its pocket for later, preferring instead to let mouthwatering briar, loganberry, mulberry and blackberry fruit strut its way forward, enlivened with roasted wood spice and supported by suavely but thoroughly embedded iron-tinged structure. Should cruise for two decades. Best from 2016 through 2035. Wine Spectator | 96 WSThe 2010's final blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc offers up impressive levels of red, blue and black fruits as well as some toasty oak and crushed rock, giving it minerality. Of course, the acidity in this vintage, with its lower pHs than 2009, provide a freshness and precision that is rare for wines so rich. This wine has plenty of tannin, so give it 4-6 years of cellaring and drink it over the following 25-30 years.This is a great wine from Comte Leo de Malet Roquefort’s estate, which has been owned by his family since the 1400s. Normally this estate tends to produce a relatively finesse-styled St.-Emilion, and the 2010 still leans in that direction, but it has more fat, muscle and sinew than in most vintages. The choice of Stephane Derenoncourt to manage the vineyard seems to have resulted in much lower yields, and ultimately a wine with much more richness and persistence on the palate.Robert Parker | 95+ RPA big, bold, ripe wine with firm tannins and dark, solid fruits. The wine has acidity coming from the black currant flavors. Continuing the impressive quality of wines from La Gaffelière, it has weight and a rich feel to it, along with a tight, mineral final texture. This is a wine that is elegant as well as powerful.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WELightly savoury nose, but the black fruits still come through. Good natural tannins refresh the palate and there’s very good, lifted fruit, with fine texture and good length. A well-balanced, stylish, poised and elegant St-Émilion.Decanter | 91 DEC

Purity of dark fruits such as blueberries and blackberries with hints of flowers. Full body, with silky tannins and a juicy finish. Chewy yet polished. Try in 2017.James Suckling | 92 JSA complex wine that shows its power through a subtle mix of tannins and solid fruits. It has the freshness as well as the structure of the vintage. Definitely for aging.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE

Harvested from a small parcel, less than four acres, this wine is in perfect condition. It is balanced, with white fruit and citrus coming together, led by the acidity. It is developing into a full, ripe wine. Wait until 2019.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE(Pouilly-Fumé “Clos des Chaudoux”- Domaine Serge Dagueneau et Fille) The 2016 Clos des Chaudoux Domaine Serge and Valerie Dagueneau is an outstanding bottle of Pouilly-Fumé. This is unique in the family’s lineup, as these fifty-five year-old sauvignon blanc vines are actually planted on terres blanches limestone, rather than flint. The wine is quite tropical in its fruit complexion in 2016, offering up notes of pineapple, tangerine, just a touch of damp grass, beautiful chalky minerality and a topnote of dried flowers. On the palate the wine is crisp, full-bodied, focused and complex, with plenty of secondary development already showing, but coupled to a good girdle of acidity and plenty of cut and grip on the long finish. With the frosts of 2016, this wine may be just a touch idiosyncratically styled in this vintage, but it has depth, beaucoups complexity and impressive backend length. I decanted the wine to let it blossom and consume some of its initial aromatic oddities, and I really liked the wine after that. It is never going to make you forget a great vintage of Didier Dagueneau’s Pur Sang, but it is loaded with personality all the same! (Drink between 2019-2030)John Gilman | 91 JG

(Domaine de la Pousse d’Or Clos de la Roche Grand Cru Red) This is also aromatically inhibited with its reluctant nose of plum liqueur, leather, humus and evident floral wisps. Here too there is excellent volume and intensity to the muscular and powerful flavors that are shaped by firm tannins that leave no doubt that this is built-to-age and a wine that’s going to need extended patience. I would add that in the context of the 2017 vintage, this is a big wine. (Drink starting 2032)Burghound | 92-95 BHThe 2017 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru offers more red fruit than the Bonnes-Mares, although at the moment this does not quite deliver the same nuance and comeliness. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin, quite linear and strict (especially for this vineyard), but with a welcome pinch of white pepper and sage towards the persistent finish. Afford it several years in bottle.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

The 2019 Chablis 1er Cru Séchet opens in the glass with scents of citrus oil, white flowers, beeswax, oyster shell, wet chalk and mandarin. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and strikingly intense, it’s taut and chiseled, with tangy acids and huge reserves of concentration, concluding with a pungently chalky finish. As I’ve written before, Séchet—where Dauvissat owns a 0.8-hectare parcel—is located in the Vaillons Valley, but its windier situation and soils richer in active limestone mean it’s typically more tensile and incisive than the other climats that make up Vaillons. Technically retired but very much a continuing presence at his eponymous domaine, Vincent Dauvissat—who forsook a career as a shepherd to become one of France’s most celebrated vignerons—couldn’t disguise his satisfaction as we tasted his recently bottled 2019 portfolio. After some discussion, we settled on the 1989 vintage ("but tighter and more incisive") as a possible analogy for 2019’s hyper-concentrated, ripe, but all the while classically Chablisien style. In any case, they’re some of the wines of the vintage and are well worth seeking out. Readers will remember that farming here is organic but without certification. The harvest is by hand, and the wines ferment in tank before racking to barrel with the lees (Raveneau’s Chablis, by contrast, are racked to barrel more or less without their lees), spending a second winter in wood before bottling. A first bottling, destined for the American market. | 94 RP The 2019 Chablis Séchets 1er Cru has an elegant and more floral bouquet compared to Vincent Dauvissat’s other 2019s, beautifully defined and offering baked apple, pear and white flower scents. The palate is well balanced with a spicy opening, plus hints of stem ginger and walnut. Quite tensile and full on the finish. Good potential here.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMA markedly citrusy and noticeably cooler nose combines notes of mineral reduction with those of pear and apple confit. There is again very good volume and mid-palate density on the seductively textured medium-bodied flavors that are also quite dry on the balanced finale. This is a powerful Séchet that is even more robust and one that will need to add depth with age, but it should do just that if given a chance.Burghound | 92 BH

The 2019 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Boudots 1er Cru, aged in 50% new oak, has an intense bouquet of floral and violet aromas joined by dark berry fruit and a touch of tobacco. The palate is medium-bodied and quite mineral-driven, with gentle grip and a savory, earthy, quite broody finish. This should be fascinating to watch evolve in bottle.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM(Domaine Georges Noëllat Nuits St. Georges "Les Boudots" 1er Cru Red) This is also notably ripe with its blend of plum, dark raspberry, range of spice elements and an exotic tea nuance. There is very good freshness and vibrancy to the delicious medium weight plus flavors that exude a discreet minerality on the dusty, moderately austere and firm but not rigid finale. This will need at least a few years to develop better depth and shed some of its tannic spine. (Drink starting 2029)Burghound | 89-92 BH

The 2019 Marsannay Clos de Jeu is limpid in color. It presents an enticing mix of red and black fruit, rose petal and violet aromas. The palate is fleshy on the entry with fine grip, and quite saline, leading to a lovely savory finish. Excellent.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM(Domaine Joseph Roty Marsannay "Les Clos du Jeu" Villages Red) An even more complex nose offers up markedly ripe yet fresh notes of herbal tea, forest floor, plum, red and dark raspberry, violet and earth, all of which is trimmed in nuances of wood. The succulent and slightly bigger-bodied flavors possess a plush mid-palate mouthfeel along with good minerality, all wrapped in an impressively complex and persistent finish. While this possesses even denser tannins, the borderline creamy mouthfeel should permit this beauty of a Marsannay to be approachable after only 5 to 7 years of bottle age. Well worth considering. (Drink starting 2027)Burghound | 92 BHThe 2019 Marsannay Clos de Jeu offers up aromas of cherries, raspberries and loamy soil, framed by a deft touch of oak. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and seamless, it’s supple and layered, uniting upfront charm with aging potential.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RP(Marsannay “Clos de Jeu”- Domaine Joseph Roty) The Clos de Jeu will also be promoted eventually to premier cru and it too is showing its lovely potential in this 2019 bottling from Domaine Roty. The nose jumps from the glass in a complex blend of sweet dark berries, black cherries, smoked meats, a touch of licorice, a fine base of soil tones, woodsmoke and a touch of new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and tangy in personality, with a rock solid core of fruit, lovely mineral drive and grip, well-integrated tannins and a long, complex finish. Fine, fine juice. (Drink between 2027-2050)John Gilman | 91+ JG

(La Chablisiènne Chablis - Les Clos Grand Cru White) A discreet but not invisible touch of wood surrounds the aromas of citrus, white flower and slightly more obvious typicity. The bigger and more powerful large-scaled flavors brim with minerality and a lovely underlying tension on the sneaky long, compact and tightly wound finale. Like several wines in the range, this is going to need to develop more depth over time, but the necessary material appears to be present for that to occur. (Drink starting 2027)Burghound | 91-93 BHThe 2019 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru is rather simple and primal on the nose, fresh but lacking the terroir expression of the better Les Clos that I tasted. The palate is well defined on the entry and quite spicy, but just missing a little cohesion. The finish comes across a bit too sharp and bitter. I suspect this will improve with bottle age, but I also suspect there are better examples of this vineyard in this vintage.Vinous Media | 91 VM

Green apple and Mirabelle flavors are cutting and pure on the palate of this richly textured, supple wine. While plush in body and undeniably ripe, it has an edge of lemony acidity alongside streaks of crystalline minerality. Voluptuous yet freshly composed, it’s delightful young but should fare well through 2030. Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEPhilippe Colin farms a parcel of mostly 50-year-old vines within Les Chaumées, in the northwest corner of Chassagne, bordering St-Aubin. Given that it is near the top of the hill, where the soils are shallow without much clay, the site produced an impressively cool and expansive 2019, a wine with a long horizon line of flavor touching on sea salt, lime and stone. That stony, flinty character keeps the structure tight, set for long aging.Wine & Spirits Magazine | 94 W&SOnce again there is a petrol note to the more floral and less citrus-infused nose. There is excellent richness to the sappy medium weight flavors that possess just a bit more overall depth and persistence on the balanced finale.Burghound | 90-92 BHButterscotch and citronella aromas and flavors mark this smooth white that’s toasty too, with vivid acidity keeping this focused and driving the long finish. Drink now through 2025. 900 cases made, 120 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WS