98-99 Point Wines

wines

Hobbs was one of the first to recognize the brilliance of Oakville’s Beckstoffer To-Kalon Vineyard, and he has produced several wines that were either perfect, or pushing perfection. This 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To-Kalon Vineyard reveals that haunting, almost indescribable bouquet of red and black fruits, spring flowers, and subtle hint of lead pencil shavings that aromatically blows away the taster. If one could have a 100-point bouquet, this is it. Moreover, the flavors don’t let the taster down. Nearly as powerful and rich as the 2002, this full-bodied 2004 is a glorious, classic Napa Cabernet Sauvignon that has been flawlessly vinified. The enormity of the mid-palate, texture and skyscraper-like mouthfeel with no heaviness result in a prodigious effort that is one of the top four or five wines of the vintage. This spectacular wine can be drunk now or cellared for another two decades.Robert Parker | 99 RPThis pushes ripeness to the edge, yet it’s balanced, with spicy currant, cedary oak and hints of anise and cassis that are complex and deep without being heavy. The tannins are ripe and polished. Best from 2008 through 2015. 534 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS(14.8% alcohol): Deep, bright ruby. Wild, high-toned, slightly funky aromas of black raspberry, truffle, herbs and mocha. Sweet and a bit truffley on the palate. Ultimately a bit drier than the Stagecoach Vineyard example, with dusty tannins that are not quite as well supported by mid-palate ripeness of fruit. More sweetness emerges with air, though.Vinous Media | 90 VM

I was blown away by the breathtaking purity and definition of Sandrone’s 2004 Barolo Cannubi Boschis. A translucent dark ruby, this weightless yet sumptuous Barolo bursts from the glass with layers of dark ripe fruit that coat the palate with stunning grace and elegance. As it sits in the glass notes of licorice, tar and sweet toasted oak gradually emerge to complete this magnificent wine. I tasted this along with the 2001, which has shut down considerably since I last tasted it earlier this year. Today the 2004 is the more elegant wine although the 2001 looks to be more powerful and perhaps longer-lived. My rating of the 2001 (95) appears to have been conservative by about 2 points. One of the highlights of the vintage, Sandrone’s 2004 Barolo Cannubi Boschis is not to be missed. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPJust as impressive as it was at the outset, the 2004 Barolo Cannubi Boschis remains fresh, vibrant and absolutely impeccable. Black cherries, plums, spices meld into mocha, menthol and leather as this plush, inviting Barolo shows off its alluring personality. As good as the 2004 is today, it truthfully still needs time to show all of its cards. The towering, statuesque finish is a thing of beauty. I hope to do a vertical someday with the 2001, 2004, 2006, 2007, 2008 and 2010 just to see how the vintages stack up. There is little doubt the 2004 is one of the best vintages of the Cannubi Boschis in recent memory.Vinous Media | 98 VMAromas of rose petal and ripe fruit, with plum undertones. Full-bodied, with wonderful, focused ripe fruit and a silky, refined finish. The texture is polished and refined. This is classy. Best after 2012. 1,000 cases made, 250 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSThe Cannubi Boschis cru (also known as Monghisolfo) is known for the excellent quality of its fruit. This expression is particularly austere and elegant and would fit appropriately in a gentleman’s smoking room or other such formal context. The aromas recall old leather, cigar box, dried rose petal and dried figs. Very interesting, very tight and firm.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WE

The 2004 St. Eden, which comes from a valley floor vineyard in Oakville, is another dead ringer for a great Pauillac, possibly a young Mouton. Dense bluish/purple in color with stunning notes of cedarwood, unsmoked high-quality cigar tobacco, crème de cassis and espresso roast, this wine has fabulous fruit, density and a full-bodied, youthful mouthfeel, wonderful balance and purity, and a terrific finish that goes on for close to a minute. This is also relatively open, but slightly more structured than the Melbury. There’s no sense deferring gratification, so I would suggest drinking it over the next 15-20 years, possibly longer.Robert Parker | 98 RPBrilliant aromatics here, just stupendously attractive. Among the sweetest and most approachable of Harlan’s current stable, it’s also complex and ageworthy. Fairly tannic now, with a refined sandpapery grittiness coating pure flavors of ripe cherries, plums and blackberries and their associated liqueurs. The finish is so long, balanced and harmonious. It’s hard to imagine that this won’t be one to age 12–15 years.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEDark red. Very ripe aromas of plum, currant and cocoa powder, complicated by a balsamic note and dusty minerality. At once savory and sweet, with the element of balsamic development carrying through onto the palate. Suave in texture but doesn’t show the energy or delineation of the 2005 version. These tannins are finer-grained than I recall but the finish is a touch warm.Vinous Media | 93 VMSuperripe yet supple and balanced, with deep, enticing blackberry, ripe plum and wild berry fruit that’s rich and concentrated, with a long, persistent finish. The tannins are firm and structured. Best from 2009 through 2015. 600 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS