Bordeaux Collector Wines

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A dense, traditionally crafted wine for those with patience, the 2000 Calon-Segur rivals the estate’s finest wines of the last two decades, the 1995, 1988, and 1982. But be forewarned, this wine has already closed down, something totally in character with all top vintages from this estate. This blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and 10% Cabernet Franc exhibits a plum/purple color along with gorgeous aromas of creosote intermixed with spring flowers, black cherries, cassis, licorice, and stony, liquid minerals. A powerful, tannic, full-bodied and opulent wine, it possesses considerable structure that is reasonably well-concealed by considerable glycerin and intensity. Look for it to be at its best between 2012-2040. Patience, patience, patience!Robert Parker | 94 RPThe 2000 Calon-Ségur still appears quite youthful on the rim. The well-defined nose offers brambly red fruit, red currant, crushed strawberry, rose petals and cedar, and some sous-bois just loitering in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with refined tannins. This has mellowed since I tasted it in London five years ago, and touches of tobacco and tart red cherries enliven the finish. I have always loved this millennial Calon-Ségur and now it is à point and drinking beautifully. Aged in 50% new oak and 50% one-year-old for 12 months (less than nowadays.)Vinous Media | 93 VMThis is a solid, huge wine, with rich but very dry tannins. With its dense, almost black color, and its sense of brooding power, it promises long aging. It will never be in the opulent Bordeaux camp, despite its prominent new wood flavors, but will probably outlive all but a handful top wines.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WE(Château Calon-Ségur) The 2000 Calon-Ségur is a very closed, very grumpy wine at the present time, and this is a characteristic that it shares at the present time with a great many wines from this vintage. The blend here included forty-two percent merlot in 2000 and the wine offers up a very deep-pitched and adolescent bouquet of black fruit, inky tones, damp, dark soil, dried eucalyptus, coffee grounds and cigar smoke. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, closed down and quite dense at the core, with a gritty edge to its firm and chewy tannins, little generosity at the present time, but also with impressive grip on the closed, but very, very long finish. The length on the backend here really gives me some hope for the future of this wine, but it is really in a very difficult place for current assessment and I do not have a strong sense of whether or not this wine will always be a bit charmless, or if this is simply a passing phase and it will blossom to deliver some of Calons’ inherent breed with sufficient bottle age. (Drink between 2025-2065)John Gilman | 88-92+ JGThis shows a noticeable leafy edge, with tobacco, light cedar, bay and worn leather notes holding sway over a core of lightly mulled red currant and plum fruit flavors. Not as dense as the top examples, but everything pulls together nicely through the fine-grained finish.—Blind 2000 Bordeaux retrospective (December 2015). Drink now through 2020.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

A spicy Bordeaux with berries and hints of currants. Full, super round and soft –surrounded by vanilla and blueberry pie. Lovely. Just coming around now. Delicious.James Suckling | 93 JSThe beautiful 1999 Mouton Rothschild may be a modern day clone of their 1962 or 1985. Its saturated ruby/purple color is followed by sumptuous aromas of cedar wood, creme de cassis, wood smoke, coffee, and dried herbs. The wine is forward, lush, and full-bodied. It is already complex as well as succulent, fleshy, and long. Tannin in the finish suggests more nuances will emerge in 4-5 years. It is a complex, classic Mouton. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2030.Robert Parker | 93 RPStill showing some vibrant red/black fruit notes, this has some primary characters and firm, grippy tannins which should allow the wine to age for at least another five years. An elegant Mouton with intriguing herbs and spices on the nose, with blackcurrant flavour coming through on the medium-bodied palate. Restrained and understated, although lacking the density of the top vintages. Harvested 24 September to 2 October. 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc. 60% of production used for the Grand Vin. Drinking Window 2021 - 2027.Decanter | 93 DECThe 1999 Mouton-Rothschild, which Philippe Dhalluin told me was harvested in one week, has a forward, showy bouquet with more upfront black fruit than the 1999 Lafite-Rothschild I tasted an hour earlier. Blackberry mixes with hints of star anise and light tobacco notes, conveying energy and fine delineation if not the profundity of the greatest vintages. There seems to be a lot of extraction and/or vin de presse here. The palate is medium-bodied with sweet tannin and a fine bead of acidity, and quite dense and grippy in the mouth. There is presence but not the same sophistication that Dhalluin imparts nowadays. A pleasurable Mouton-Rothschild that tries everything to appeal, whereas nowadays it is more effortless. Tasted from an ex-château bottle at the estate.Vinous Media | 92 VMDelivers sweet tobacco and plum aromas, with a lovely richness. Full-bodied, featuring lots of cedar, tobacco, chocolate and berry character. Long and silky in the palate. There is no sense in waiting; this is so delicious now.--’89/’99 Bordeaux blind retrospective (2009). Drink now. 20,165 cases made.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

This largely forgotten vintage seems to have turned the corner in the last year or two. Because of strict selections made at the top chateaux, the wines always had density, but the level of tannin was frequently too high, and the type of tannin was more green and astringent. Chateau Margaux’s 1994 has always been one of the candidates for the “wine of the vintage.” The wine still has a dense plum/purple color and a big, sweet nose of black fruits intermixed with licorice, camphor, vanilla, and a hint of flowers. The wine is dense and powerful, but the tannins have softened and do not seem as hard and intrusive as they did in the late nineties. This wine will last for decades and hopefully become even more seamless, although it is hard to believe all the tannin will gradually dissipate. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2025. Last tasted, 10/02.Robert Parker | 91+ RPVery good bright red-ruby color. Sappy, very floral nose hints at toasty oak. Sweet, supple. smooth and oaks in the mouth. A very consistent though fairly tannic wine without the grip or structure of the ’95. In fact, tasted after the ’95, this seemed much oakier and even a bit monolithic.Vinous Media | 90-91 VMNot a big Margaux, this is all in refinement. Pretty aromas of berries, raspberries and toasted oak and warm flavors that build on your palate. Medium-bodied, with fine, well-integrated tannins and a caressing finish. Better in 1999.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

Ripe and fresh. Just what it should be. Deep ruby with red hue. Loads of chocolate, vanilla, tobacco and ripe fruit. Full bodied with lots of velvety tannins and a long finish.--1990 Bordeaux retrospective. Best after 2004. 12,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WSMedium healthy red. Expressive aromas of smoky oak, toffee, redcurrants, and a trace of herbs. Thick, velvety and smooth, with substantial fat. Broad more than intense right now. Lingering, sweet finish; ripe tannins are substantial but currently buried in fruit.Vinous Media | 90 VM

No written review provided. | 96 WSThis is a forgotten vintage for Mouton. There are pretty aromas of sweet Thai basil along with Asian plums. It’s full, soft and fruity. You might say it’s almost jammy – but it’s also so round and gorgeous. Love it now.James Suckling | 93 JS(75% cabernet sauvignon, 15% merlot, 8% cabernet franc and 2% petit verdot; ph 3.61; IPT 53; 12.1% alcohol; 90% new oak): Deep, saturated ruby-red with a hint of garnet at the rim. Floral nose offers aromas of red cherry, orange rind, cedar and aromatic herbs. Big, dense and concentrated, with ripe red cherry and plum flavors complemented by underbrush, sweet pipe tobacco and mint. Finishes long, sweet and saline, with a very classic, refined mouth feel. A very underrated vintage for Mouton, the 1983 has had to live under the shadow of the much more famous 1982. My latest sample was devoid of the green notes that some previous bottles of the ’83 have shown.Vinous Media | 92 VMThe classic Mouton lead-pencil, cedary nose has begun to emerge. This medium dark ruby, elegant, medium-bodied wine will never be a great or legendary Mouton. The flavors are ripe and moderately rich. With good depth and some firm tannins to resolve, this offering from Mouton is bigger and richer than the 1981, 1979, or 1978. Austere by the standards of Mouton and the vintage, the 1983 resembles the chateau’s fine 1966. Anticipated maturity: Now-2015. Last tasted, 10/90.Robert Parker | 90 RP

(Château Mouton-Rothschild) This was the last vintage to be made by the Baron de Rothschild, and I have always had a sneaky suspicion that the 1987 may have been made a bit more memorable by the inclusion of some of the 1986 or 1988 bookends that may have been laying around, as the wine utterly transcends the vintage in terms of depth and power. Regardless of how the quality of the wine was ultimately arrived at, it is the finest 1987 Medoc that I have ever tasted, jumping from the glass in a blend of red berries, spices, coffee, eucalyptus, a touch of walnuts and the traditional Mouton nicely toasted new oak. On the palate the wine is medium-full, complex and à point, with excellent focus and fine length on the shapely finish. This is a lovely, commemorative bottling that still has plenty of life ahead of it. (Drink between 2003-2012)John Gilman | 91 JGOctober 2002 at a mad Swiss collector’s house at 10am. Light brick core. Tawny rim. Delicate leaf/minty nose. Quite earthy and mature on palate. Well-balanced, better than Lafite. Moderate concentration but quite austere and classic. Drink soon. Tasted amongst in a collectors gnome garden in Switzerland at 10am! Tasted again at the SuperBOWL and making perfect sense with a leg of lamb. A slightly diffuse, tobacco scented nose followed by a palate of moderate concentration with cedar and tobacco. Quite a soft texture but with vibrant acidity. A gentleman’s claret. Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 88-90 RP-NM

Berry, cherry and chocolate on the nose, with hints of spices. Full-bodied, with chewy tannins and a spicy, cedary, dark chocolate aftertaste. Very silky and caressing. Grabs your attention. Muscular for Cheval. Overlooked by many Cheval fans.—’88/’98 Bordeaux blind retrospective (2008). Drink now. 12,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS(40 h/h; 12.5% alcohol): Bright red. Very pure floral nose with enticing aromas of redcurrant, violet, minerals, licorice, lead pencil and coffee: very cabernet franc! Then linear, pure and juicy, with pristine flavors of red berries, dark plum, minerals and coffee. This midweight finishes clean and smoothly tannic, offering amazing balance and an impression of seamlessness on the long, very floral finish. As much as I like its pure aromas and flavors, I find this Cheval Blanc lacks a little density for an even higher score. This was an overall dry and cool year, with some rain present only in the first part of the year, which caused some mildew pressure. The dry conditions started at the end of July and never really let up; from July to September, there was less than two inches of rain. Flowering was late, taking place on June 10, and veraison on August 20. Harvested during the first ten days of October.Vinous Media | 92 VM

A wine of extraordinary charm and elegance, the dark garnet-colored 1985 Ducru-Beaucaillou has a floral, cedary nose intermixed with red and black currants as well as flowers. The wine is fully mature and soft, with beautiful concentration and purity. It is not a blockbuster, and certainly not nearly as powerful and massive as the 1986, but it is certainly much more seductive. This wine should continue to drink well for at least another 10-15 years. Anticipated maturity: Now-2012. Last tasted, 5/02.Robert Parker | 92 RP

Gorgeous, a clear step up from the 2000 vintage as it approaches its second decade. This is not quite ready to drink, although a few hours in a decanter could open it up sufficiently. It’s full of intense, tight and spirited black fruits, replete with this château’s signature richness of structure, which seems to ooze naturally through the tannins. There’s a real sense of energy and zest, with liquorice, slate, spice, cassis and black cherry. The second half of August was hotter in 2001 than 2000 in St-Estèphe, and the grapes were left to reach a long, slow maturity. Harvesting did not begin until 1 October when the nights were getting cooler –this will have helped the wine keep its remarkable freshness. Matured in 80% new oak. Drinking Window 2018 - 2040Decanter | 95 DECThe 2001 Cos d’Estournel is blended of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon and 45% Merlot—a very high percentage of Merlot in this vintage and a very late harvest, which started on October 1st. Deep garnet in color, the nose is singing with savory notes of smoked meats, tapenade, bay leaves and beef drippings with a core of plum preserves, redcurrant jelly, dried cherries and baked blackcurrants with wafts of peppermint tea and dried roses. Medium-bodied, the palate practically tingles with vibrant dried herbs, red fruit preserves and minty notes, structured with firm, finely grained tannins and fantastic freshness, finishing very long and minerally.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2001 Cos d’Estournel has a fresher nose than the 2000, showing more focus and vigor and delivering black cherries mixed with fig, blood orange and light cigar box aromas. Side by side, this is certainly more youthful. The palate is well balanced with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity, and fine grip and freshness. This is still quite tight at 20 years old and would certainly benefit from decanting. Blood orange and a light sprinkling of white pepper appear toward the finish. In this face-off, I have a preference for the 2001 over the 2000.Vinous Media | 93 VMVelvety textured with soft and silky tannins and a chocolate, meat and berry character. Full and round. Slightly forgotten and delicious. Drink now.James Suckling | 93 JSSuave, with a cool, minty hint weaving around the core of mulled red currant, blackberry and plum fruit. Lovely spice, black tea and singed juniper notes are perfectly inlaid throughout, showing a tug of charcoal at the very end.—Blind ’01/’03/’05 Bordeaux retrospective (December 2017). Drink now through 2025. 17,705 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WSNo written review provided. | 91 W&S

This was a very strong vintage for Vieux Chateau Certan. The 1990 reveals a deep garnet color to the rim along with a sweet bouquet of charcoal, licorice, roasted herbs, forest floor, and a meaty, truffle-like scent. A fleshy, full-bodied wine with exceptionally low acidity, plenty of melted tannin, and a long, layered finish, this beauty is close to full maturity, but it is in no danger of falling apart. It should keep for another 15+ years.Robert Parker | 94 RP(Vieux Château Certan) I drank the 1990 Vieux Château Certan at a superb vertical of this property last spring, and though I liked the wine very much, my notes start out with “not as elegant as the 1995 or 1989” that flanked it in the flight. It is still a very good 1990 Pomerol, offering up a complex bouquet of roasted cassis, cigar wrapper, a touch of gamebird, a fine base of soil, a touch of nuttiness and a topnote of cigar smoke. With air a bit of red fruit emerges to join the black fruit on the nose. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and very well-balanced, with a good, but not great core, very good acids for the vintage and impressive length and grip on the meltingly tannic finish. This is a very good wine, but it is a slightly rustic style of vintage for VCC. (Drink between 2018-2060)John Gilman | 93 JGThe 1990 Vieux Château Certan has a mature colour. It has a lovely nose with freshly picked mint and menthol infusing the red fruit, precocious and yet perfectly controlled. The palate is medium-bodied and more sensual than the 1989 on this occasion. Lovely roundness here, this 1990 has a gorgeous texture with a weighty hickory and truffle-tinged finish that lingers. It becomes more and more gamey with aeration, and I suspect well-kept bottles will offer another 12-15 years of pleasure. Tasted at the Vieux Château Certan dinner at La Trompette.Vinous Media | 93 VM

Wonderfully ripe and decadent, with tobacco, meat and ripe berry aromas, with hints of currants. Full-bodied, and very velvety, with unctuous fruit flavors. Long and exotic aftertaste. Terrific wine. Best after 2010. 2,375 cases made. — JSWine Spectator | 93 WSA brilliant second wine, the 2000 Carruades de Lafite (51.4% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42.3% Merlot, 4.9% Cabernet Franc, and 1.4% Petit Verdot), aged in 10-15% new French oak, shows wonderfully sweet lead pencil shavings intermixed with an elegant black cherry and cassis nose. A wine of tremendous purity, medium body, and the tell-tale Lafite elegance, this is a gorgeous wine to drink now and over the next 12-15 years.Robert Parker | 90 RP

The first offering in what turned out to be a remarkable decade for this property, the 2000 Clos Fourtet was the finest wine produced here in many years, but it was subsequently eclipsed by the 2003, 2005, 2008, and 2009. The dense plum/purple-tinged 2000 exhibits notes of wet rocks, camphor, blackberries, and cassis. Full-bodied with tremendous density, it appears to have shed much of its tannin, and is through its adolescent stage. It should continue to evolve effortlessly for another decade.Robert Parker | 93 RPRipe and thickly layered, with boysenberry and fig paste flavors taking the lead, pushed by some hefty ganache and black licorice notes. The finish has an ample roasted apple wood injection holding sway, though there's good underlying cut thanks to a buried chalky minerality. Still seems like this will rely more on extraction in the end.—Blind 2000 Bordeaux retrospective (December 2015). Drink now through 2023. 4,580 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WSNo written reviews provided | 90 W&SThis was the last vintage at Clos Fourtet under the ownership of the Lurtons. They made fine wine, but the potential of the property was never quite realized. The wine just fails to excite: it is rich and concentrated with ripe tannins and some sweetness, but at the same time, there is a layer of acidity and structure which gives the wine a firm, solid shape.Wine Enthusiast | 90 WE

Wild aromas of crushed fruit, forest flower and wild mushrooms. Full-bodied, with incredibly velvety tannins that go on and on. Lovely and exciting fruit. Gorgeous, seductive wine. Hard to resist now. Better than I remember.--’95/’96 Bordeaux retrospective. Best after 2007.Wine Spectator | 94 WSProprietor Christian Moueix’s 1996s have turned out well in the bottle. The 1996 Petrus is a big, monolithic, foursquare wine with an impressively opaque purple color, and sweet berry fruit intermixed with earth, pain grille, and coffee scents. Full-bodied and muscular, with high levels of tannin, and a backward style, this wine (less than 50% of the production was bottled as Petrus) will require patience. It is a mammoth example. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2035Robert Parker | 92 RP

This wine is the finest Grand-Puy-Lacoste produced after 1982 and before 1995. The 1986 still possesses an impressive deep ruby/purple color, as well as a classic nose of cedar, blackcurrants, smoke, and vanillin. Full-bodied, powerful, authoritatively rich, and loaded with fruit, this wine’s solid lashing of tannin is not likely to melt away for 3-4 more years. It can be drunk, although it is backward and unyielding. Certainly, it is one of the better northern Medocs of the vintage. Anticipated maturity: Now-2012. Last tasted 6/97.Robert Parker | 91 RP

Very ripe for a second wine this is now delicious thanks to the rich blackberry and cassis fruit, full supple tannins and long finish that’s simultaneously dry and creamy. Where is that porterhouse steak? Drink or hold. (Horizontal Tasting, London, 2019).James Suckling | 95 JSThe estate’s second wine, the sexy 2009 Pavillon Rouge du Chateau Margaux, offers lots of black raspberry, cedar and foresty/underbrush notes in its round, generous, full-bodied, seductive embrace of black fruits interwoven with floral notes results. This seamless second wine is one of the finest Chateau Margaux has made to date. Enjoy it over the next two decades.Robert Parker | 93 RPThe 2009 Pavillon Rouge du Château Margaux has a very pure bouquet with blackberry, raspberry coulis, cedar and light violet aromas, quite intense and graining power in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly powdery tannin. The acidity is very well judged, a completely harmonious Pavillon Rouge with just the right amount of spice to enhance the finish. Excellent. Tasted at BI Wines & Spirits’ Ten Year On tasting.Vinous Media | 93 VMVery rich, dense, pushing great blackberry fruits and ripe tannins. As always on the level of a classed growth.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WEThis is an absolutely killer combination of vibrant, plush red fruits and finely-wrought tannins that are still working hard on the silky-smooth palate. With vibrant edging to the colour and a gorgeous, mouthwatering finish, this is a near-perfect Pavillon - ready to enjoy now but will go long. Great stuff, and bodes well for the rest of the vintage in Margaux. Drinking Window 2019 - 2036.Decanter | 93 DECVery sleek, with a lovely winey edge to the plum, cassis and blackberry fruit, laced with roasted apple wood, lilac and singed iron notes. Tangy and lengthy, with ample depth, but also nearly approachable now. Best from 2013 through 2023.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

A step up over the 2014, the 2012 Château Figeac is a big, opulent, authoritative Figeac loaded with ripe black fruits (blackberries, currants), smoked earth, roasted herbs, and truffle aromas and flavors. Rich, powerful, concentrated, and tannic, it’s a blockbuster that has 2+ decades of prime drinking ahead of it. The 2012s can still be found in the market and are smart buys.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JD(Château Figeac) Whatever eventually happens at Château Figeac, at least we have the stunning and utterly classic 2012 to latch onto for our cellars! This is a superb example of the vintage that fully demonstrates that the vintage was every bit as fine in St. Émilion as it was in Pomerol, and those who missed in the former commune did so due to their own methodology, rather than any inherent limitations in the vintage. The 2012 Figeac is comprised of a blend of forty percent each merlot and cabernet sauvignon (those who would rip out the cabernet sauvignon here are simply out of their minds- and there are dozens of folks in Bordeaux that would immediately do so if they had control of this great estate- as this is one of the defining elements of Figeac that sets it apart and above from its neighbors!) and twenty percent cabernet franc. As has been the case since the 1970 vintage, the wine was raised in one hundred percent new wood. The bouquet is deep, complex, pure and utterly classic, jumping from the glass in a refined mix of black cherries, dark berries, Cuban cigars, a lovely base of gravelly soil tones, a touch of violet and a very well done base of new wood. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, pure and beautifully structured, with a rock solid core, good acidity, refined, suave tannins (predominantly from the cabernet sauvignon one would expect) and excellent length and grip on the focused and superb finish. If this is the swan song for classic Figeac, it is one hell of a wine to go out with! (Drink between 2022-2055).John Gilman | 94 JGGreat aromatics on display here and this is rich and powerful with lovely black spice complexity. The mid-palate is chock full of gourmet edges, with raspberry coulis and mellow blackberry fruits. This wine can be drunk now but will also age. It’s starting to get into its stride at this point. Harvest technically lasted from 20 September to 13 October but took place almost entirely in October to benefit from the warm and dry Indian summer that followed a more challenging start to the growing season. The estate used 100% new oak barrels. Drinking Window 2019 - 2038.Decanter | 94 DECThe aromas of sweet tobacco, currants and flower undertones are beautiful. The wine is medium-to full-bodied with fine tannins and a polished and caressing finish. Delicious now. All about finesse.James Suckling | 93 JSThe 2012 Figeac is super-expressive. Dense and fleshy in the glass - yet with gorgeous aromatic lift - the 2012 is impeccable in its overall balance. Dark red plum, cherry pit, cloves, leather, sage and licorice are all laced into the inviting finish. Within the context of the year, the Figeac has a fair amount of structure, so it is best cellared for at least a few years. There is a lot to like here. Michel Rolland blended the 2012 and took over the consulting at Figeac in full beginning with the 2013 harvest.Vinous Media | 93 VMA beguiling tobacco leaf note weaves up and away from the core of steeped plum and mulled currant fruit, while a sleek iron accent forms the spine and a loamy element creates the backdrop. Shows some pleasant latent grip while the currant detail echoes. Best from 2018 through 2027. 8,330 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WSThis wine has weight and tannins that offer good structure, but it’s the ripe, rich fruit that dominates. It’s powerful and complex, and likely to age well.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WEThis is a very strong effort from this great terroir. They finally seem to be making stricter selections and picking slightly riper fruit, thereby avoiding the vegetal underripe tones of the past as well as dilution from a lack of any selection. The 2012 Figeac (performing much better from bottle) has a dense ruby/purple color and a beautiful nose of graphite, blackcurrants, and spice box, followed by a medium-bodied, elegant yet still concentrated and authoritative style of wine. This is a beauty, and the great terroir that has existed for centuries comes through beautifully. Give it 3-4 years of cellaring and drink it over the following 20 years.Robert Parker | 91+ RP

This the greatest Pavillon Rouge ever made. Aromas of flowers, smoke, currants and raspberries follow through to a full body, with super silky tannins and a long, long finish. This is balanced and refined with wonderful depth. Hard to believe it’s a second wine. Better after 2018.James Suckling | 96 JSThis is lovely, with a powerful backdrop of graphite and tar, harnessed by flavors of velvety plum, steeped fig and black currant preserves. The long incense- and black tea-filled finish completes the seduction. Refined, defined and poised. Best from 2014 through 2025. 10,833 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WSA serious tone to the nose with inviting meaty, smoked black pepper and perfumed aromas. Succulent and supple on the palate, generous and full in the mouth yet also quite streamlined and linear. Lots of flavour but directed in one straight line at the moment with concentration and tension. This is extremely well structured with a pristine focus yet also a liveliness that makes it so enjoyable to taste. One that is giving pleasure now but will continue to age gracefully.Decanter | 94 DECThe 2010 Pavillon Rouge has a delightful, elegant bouquet with wild strawberry, blackberry and cedar aromas, very well defined and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, veins of blue fruit emerging with time in the glass and with just a touch of salted liquorice towards the finish. This could be à point. Tasted from an ex-château bottle at the BI Wines & Spirits 10-Year On tasting.Vinous Media | 92 VMDeep garnet in color, the 2010 Pavillon Rouge du Chateau Margaux offers up scents of blackcurrant cordial, wild thyme and fertile loam with hints of cedar chest, pencil lead and tar. Medium-bodied, the palate is just a tad lean with chewy tannins and bold freshness, finishing on an herbal note.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91+ RP

A complex nose of subtle menthol intermixed with black currants, cherries, spice box, cedar, and herbs emerges from this fully mature 1990. It is a fleshy, round, generously endowed Margaux with silky tannins, low acidity, and beautiful purity. Drink it with great pleasure now, or cellar it for another decade. Release price: ($300.00/case)Robert Parker | 94 RPThe 1990 Rauzan-Ségla is another vintage that I have not tasted for some time. It was picked from September 17 to October 7. Now at 28-years of age it shows some maturation on the tawny rim, the core a little lighter in colour than the 1998 for example. The bouquet has certainly matured in recent years: blackberry, strawberry pastilles, touches of garrigues, clove and fennel, and freshly tilled soil. It is very...1990! There is little oak presence here (the new oak was in fact just 40%, so unsurprising.) The palate is medium-bodied with grainy, slightly rustic tannin. I love the flavor profile here: dark chocolate, leather, clove, oregano and a touch of soy that is, for me, quite Saint-Julien in style. One can tell that this 1990 will not improve with continued bottle age however, it has great depth and you come away with the sense that it wears its heart on its sleeve. Tasted at the Rauzan-Ségla vertical at the château.Vinous Media | 93 VMVery concentrated. Dark garnet color. Pretty licorice, plum and currant aromas. Full-bodied, with velvety, ripe tannins and a long black licorice and cherry aftertaste.--1990 Bordeaux retrospective. Best after 2004. 11,250 cases made.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

This is really minerally with crushed stones and dark berries. Some licorice. Medium to full body, firm and silky tannins and a beautiful, tight and focused finish. Such energy, delivered down a straight line.James Suckling | 94-95 JSA blend of 65.2% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 0.8% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot, the 2017 Les Forts de Latour is deep garnet-purple in color and strides confidently out of the glass with classic notes of plum preserves, warm cassis and pencil shavings with nuances of mulberries, pencil lead, Indian spices and forest floor. Medium-bodied, the palate packs a lot of fruit into a very elegant, tightly knit palate, delivering expressive blackberry and spicy flavors with a firm frame of grainy tannins and bold freshness, finishing long with a peppery kick.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPSmells lovely, really aromatic and shining out of the glass, forward and expressive with clarity and precision on the nose full of red fruit and floral scents. Sleek and crisp, this has energy and lifeforce, I love the shape and straightforwardness but it’s the texture that’s so captivating - slightly firm but dense and chalky tannins give the bounce and cushioning on the palate while the fruit is lean and well defined. So well worked, feels careful, controlled, refined and polished. Sophisticated and just so seamless. Extremely young right now, coiled and tense still, direct from start to finish, it needs to slow down and soften and relax. Lovely pure and perfumed red fruits raspberry and blueberries alongside a slightly sharp, bitter grapefruit edge to the tannins as well as graphite and slate which lingers on the tongue and gives the mighty grip that doesn’t let go. Stylish and enjoyable. 64 PIT, 6.7% press wine. 45.4% production. Harvest 11 September to 4 October. Technical director Hélène Genin. 1% Petit Verdot completes the blend.Decanter | 94 DECThis bold, structured wine is packed with blackberry fruits and ripe tannins. Freshness and structure from the Cabernet Sauvignon are very present, giving a crisp edge to the solid backbone. This is a wine for aging. Don’t drink before 2023. ROGER VOSSWine Enthusiast | 94 WEBright and fresh, featuring floral, cassis and plum aromas and flavors allied to a sleek, iron-tinged frame. Racy tension through the finish lets the fruit play out while the minerality blossoms. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2022 through 2038.Wine Spectator | 93 WSA step up, the 2017 Les Forts De Latour includes more Cabernet Sauvignon and is 65.2% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, and the balance Petit Verdot and a splash of Cabernet Franc. Creme de cassis, unsmoked tobacco, damp earth, and a touch of cedar pencil all emerge from the glass, and it’s beautifully textured and medium to full-bodied, with terrific purity and a great finish. While it’s a second wine, I suspect it will evolve for 20-30 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 93 JDThe 2017 Les Forts de Latour conveys airiness on the nose, reflecting the relatively lightest vintage in recent years. Graphite and sous-bois infuse black fruit, offering a slightly welcome herbaceous/undergrowth tincture. The palate is very well-balanced and will appeal to those seeking a sleeker, lighter style of Pauillac. Not lean by any account, but this Les Fort de Latour is understated, with appealing black pepper and tobacco notes emerging on the finish. Fine.Vinous Media | 92 VM

This is a big upgrade for this spectacular micro-cuvee, a true garage wine from a 4.4-acre vineyard. A blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, I always find Gracia to be reminiscent of Ausone. The dense, rich 2000 reveals notes of a spring flower garden intermixed with smoky barbecue meat, blackberries, black currants, and crushed rocks. The extraordinary perfume is followed by a wine of great depth and richness, full-bodied power, and not a hard edge to be found. This velvety blockbuster is just beginning to strut all its stuff, and should age easily for another 15+ years.Robert Parker | 96 RPBright medium ruby. Superripe, slightly medicinal kirsch aroma, complicated by licorice, earth and exotic oak tones. Plump and smooth, with impressively concentrated flavors of liqueur-like black raspberry and black cherry. Finishes with big, dusty, late-arriving tannins and a note of roast coffee. Considerably less primary than the 2001 and 2002 vintages, but undeniably sweet and fat.Vinous Media | 91 VM

Very, very impressive for the vintage with a dark fruits and impressive spice and mineral undertones. Full body, chewy tannins and a long, long finish. Tight and layered. Needs two or three years to open.James Suckling | 94 JSPowered by its structure and texture, this complex wine is dense, structured and firm. Plenty of dry and taut tannins dominate at this stage, but it is also full of fruit. The wine will age over many years while not being one of those vintages that will mature forever: the fruitiness will see to that. Drink this impressive wine from 2025.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEBlended of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc, the medium to deep garnet-purple colored 2013 Cos d'Estournel opens with notes of sautéed herbs, roast beef, potpourri, eucalyptus and crushed rocks over a core of redcurrant jelly, crushed blackcurrants, kirsch and violets. Medium-bodied, the palate delivers lovely freshness and a good amount of depth, textured by a chewy frame and finishing long and mineral tinged.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPRich colour, fragrant nose with fine aromatic complexity to come, robust and slightly spicy on the palate, leaner than usual, good long-term. Drinking Window 2019 - 2030.Decanter | 91 DECThis offers up some lovely fruit, with lilting aromas and flavors of plum, cassis and red currant, while black tea and lilac notes form an alluring backdrop. Very polished, with admirable length for the vintage, this only lacks a touch of stuffing in the end—but that's 2013 for you. Best from 2017 through 2022. 12,583 cases made.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

Draws you into the glass with enticing plum, blackberry, vanilla and coconut aromas and flavors. Full-bodied yet balanced, with an abundance of soft tannins, but not aggressive. Best after 2000.Wine Spectator | 94 WS(Les Forts de Latour) The 1990 vintage of Forts de Latour is outstanding and is quite a bit more forward than the grand vin, albeit with the structure to continue to cruise along as well for many years to come. The superb bouquet wafts from the glass in a fine blend of black cherries, cassis, a touch of cigar wrapper, dark soil tones, smoke and a nice touch of fairly toasty new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and nicely plush on the attack, with a fine core, ripe, suave tannins and a long, focused and complex finish. This is already quite easy to drink, but will cruise along effortlessly for at least a few more decades. (Drink between 2014-2035)John Gilman | 91+ JGThe rich, well-endowed 1990 possesses round, generous, surprisingly concentrated flavors. It will make ideal drinking over the next 10-15 years. The most complete second wine made at this property since their glorious 1982, over one-half of the crop was relegated to this wine. Anticipated maturity: Now-2005.Robert Parker | 90 RP

Aromas of coffee bean, dried flowers and blackberry follow through to a full body, with very sweet and ripe fruit. Long and flavorful, with dark chocolate, tobacco and plum. Complex and fascinating. Will improve for many years.—'88/'98 Bordeaux blind retrospective (2008). Drink now. — JSWine Spectator | 93 WS(Château Trotanoy) The 1988 Château Trotanoy is a really lovely example of the vintage, with decidedly “cooler” fruit tones that are on the black fruity side of the ledger, as well as the notes of fresh herbs and gravel of less ripe vintages at this estate. The super bouquet is a blend of dark berries, black cherries, cigar ash, gravel, coffee, tobacco leaf, fresh herbs and a deft framing of nutty new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and still a bit on the young side, with a superb core of fruit, moderate tannins, good acids and excellent focus and complexity on the long and black fruity finish. Not a classic vintage of Trotanoy, but a classic example of Trotanoy from a cooler year. (Drink between 2016-2040)John Gilman | 92+ JG

Again so young, almost not ready to drink but if you are patient things open up and start to sing. The tannic structure on this wine is just so impressive, still doing a good job of cradling blackberry and cassis fruits. It's a little less welcoming than the 1982. Harvest September 28 to October 18 (they began here one day before they finished up the 1982, and the yields were even bigger). More Cabernet in the blend than in 1982 because this was such a late ripening year that suited this variety. Petit Verdot 5% finishes blend. Drinking Window 2018 - 2045.Decanter | 94 DEC(Château Leoville Las Cases) The 1983 Las Cases is still a very young and primary example of the vintage, and at age thirty, I am not sure if the wine is still in an extended “dumb” phase, or if this vintage is always going to be a bit dense in style. The bouquet is a youthful blend of cassis, black cherries, Cuban cigars, gravelly soil tones and spicy new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and still quite compact, with a sound core, rather moderate tannins (particularly for such an unevolved wine!) and good, but not great length and grip on the hunkered down finish. Perhaps this wine will blossom with more bottle age, but it is also very possible that the use of concentrators or what have you has left this wine eternally bound up in its cellar techniques and will never really develop the purity and charm that characterize so many of the great wines in this vintage. It is still not a bad wine in its forceful manner, but one expects more from Las Cases in a top vintage. (Drink between 2018-2050)John Gilman | 90+ JG

Dark red, with an amber edge. Aromas of chocolate, stewed berries, Merlot and raisins. Full-bodied, velvety and rich. Lovely palate. Delicious now, but will hold on. An autumnal wine.--Bordeaux retrospective. Drink now.Wine Spectator | 92 WS