Burgundy Collector Wines

wines

The 2018 Richebourg Grand Cru is dark in colour, more so than A.F. Gros’s. Dark berry fruit, pressed rose petals, sous-bois and a touch of Indian ink. This seems to expand in the glass, likewise there is certainly some Brettanomyces evident here. The palate is medium-bodied with fleshy ripe, quite saturated tannins, orange zest and hints of marmalade, taut and fresh with real weight and density towards the effervescent finish. There is a palpable sense of grandeur here that I do not find in Gros’s, yet the bottom line is that it depends on what happens to the brett. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 red tasting.Vinous Media | 95 VMA very dense saturated if slightly evolved crimson colour. A significant weight of brawny fruit. There is muscle in this wine, and maybe some stems too. Wonderful generosity behind. There is the faintest hint of bacterial reduction but the quality and intensity of fruit swarms all over it. Brilliant weight and length. Would have been touching 98 points if completely pristine and is still exceptionally complex. Drink from 2035.Jasper Morris | 95 JMAn appealingly floral-infused combination, and particularly violet and rose petal, exhibits notes of black raspberry, pomegranate and cassis along with plenty of spice elements. The rich and relatively full-bodied flavors possess fine intensity and good minerality, all wrapped in a somewhat grippy finish that doesn’t display the length that it normally does. We’ll see if this harmonizes in time.Burghound | 89-91 BH

This is perhaps the spiciest wine in the range with a lovely mix of anise, exotic tea and sandalwood on the deeply pitched dark berry fruit aromas that also evidence a hint of volatile acidity. The rich, full-bodied and mouthcoating big-bodied flavors brim with sappy dry extract before concluding in a grippy and mildly rustic finish that still manages to deliver very good length. (Drink starting 2033)Burghound | 90-93 BH

The 2018 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru is even darker than the Bonnes-Mares. It has a spectacular bouquet of intense black fruit, blueberries and shucked oyster shells, the mineralité heightened over the Bonnes-Mares and lending a great deal of precision. The palate is medium-bodied with blueberry, boysenberry and black currant fruit, extraordinary tension, razor-sharp acidity and a dash of white pepper on the crystalline finish. One of the finest Musignys I have tasted from barrel at de Vogüé.Vinous Media | 97-99 VM(Domaine Comte de Vogüé Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru Red) A ripe and super-fresh nose offers up notes of black raspberry, plum liqueur, Asian-style tea and a whiff of incense. The racy, intense and mineral-driven big-bodied flavors retain outstanding delineation as well as an abundance of palate soaking dry extract before delivering stunningly good length where an interesting hint of citrus character in the form of mandarin orange appears. This incredibly powerful effort is both classy and highly complex and like the Bonnes Mares, is a wine that will live for decades. With that said, it’s not so backward and compact to preclude it being approachable after only 10 to 12 years. A knockout by any standard. (Drink starting 2043)Burghound | 97 BHAll the vines that are used to produce this extensive cuvée of Musigny are over 25 years’ old, so it always has good concentration. But in 2018, it’s an especially big, dense, powerful wine with masses of inky colour, assertive one-third new oak, plenty of plush bramble and black cherry fruit, undertones of sweet spices and liquorice and a chalky flourish. Needs time. Drinking Window 2026 - 2033.Decanter | 95 DEC(Musigny “Vieilles Vignes”- Domaine de Comte de Georges de Vogüé) The 2018 Musigny Vieilles Vignes was also in fine form at the time of my visit, as the racking for this cuvée was just starting and there were plenty of untouched casks to choose from for sampling. The wine is very deep and still very primary on both the nose and palate, with the bouquet wafting from the glass in a sappy blend of black cherries, sweet dark berries, dark chocolate, gamebird, woodsmoke, soil and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and shows off excellent mid-palate depth of sappy fruit, with good mineral drive, ripe, seamless and buried tannins, fine focus and grip and a long, focused and classy finish. All this needs is time in the cellar! (Drink between 2038-2085).John Gilman | 95 JG

(Domaine Comte de Vogüé Bonnes Mares Grand Cru Red) This is very deeply colored, in fact so much so that it would make a young port blush! The ripe aromas of red and blue berries, spice and earth display a mentholated top note. The dense, powerful and mouth coating broad-shouldered flavors possess evident muscularity while delivering excellent length on the youthfully austere finale. This isn’t refined, indeed it’s borderline rustic, but it’s a dramatically impressive and very firmly structured wine that should live for decades. (Drink starting 2038)Burghound | 95 BH(Bonnes-Mares- Domaine de Comte de Georges de Vogüé) The 2018 Bonnes-Mares from Domaine de Comte de Vogüé had not yet been racked, so it was the first wine in the cellar where one could really see the size and shape of the vintage here in a proper perspective. This is going to be a lovely wine, as it delivers a fine aromatic constellation of black plums, black cherries, blueberries, dark soil tones, venison, woodsmoke and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and rock solid at the core, with lovely sappiness and mineral undertow, fine-grained tannins and a long, youthful and vibrant finish. This reminds me a bit of the 1993 Bonnes-Mares here, though I am not sure why, as 1993 was a cooler year and 2018 is a solar vintage, but there are some structural similarities and the same sappy, black fruity personality that I find attractive in both vintages. The 2018 Bonnes-Mares will take plenty of time to blossom, but it is superb potential. (Drink between 2035-2085).John Gilman | 94 JGThe 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is noticeably deeper in colour than the five other 2018 Bonnes-Mares in this line-up. Here, the dark cherry fruit seems a little cooked with faint tinned prune and raisin notes in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannins, firm grip, dusky black fruit laced with black pepper, touches of thyme and sage. There is energy here, but similar to other Bonnes-Mares, the tannins seem to just poke out on the brawny and monolithic finish. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 red tasting.Vinous Media | 90 VM