Burgundy Collector Wines

wines

The 2018 Richebourg Grand Cru is dark in colour, more so than A.F. Gros’s. Dark berry fruit, pressed rose petals, sous-bois and a touch of Indian ink. This seems to expand in the glass, likewise there is certainly some Brettanomyces evident here. The palate is medium-bodied with fleshy ripe, quite saturated tannins, orange zest and hints of marmalade, taut and fresh with real weight and density towards the effervescent finish. There is a palpable sense of grandeur here that I do not find in Gros’s, yet the bottom line is that it depends on what happens to the brett. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 red tasting.Vinous Media | 95 VMA very dense saturated if slightly evolved crimson colour. A significant weight of brawny fruit. There is muscle in this wine, and maybe some stems too. Wonderful generosity behind. There is the faintest hint of bacterial reduction but the quality and intensity of fruit swarms all over it. Brilliant weight and length. Would have been touching 98 points if completely pristine and is still exceptionally complex. Drink from 2035.Jasper Morris | 95 JMAn appealingly floral-infused combination, and particularly violet and rose petal, exhibits notes of black raspberry, pomegranate and cassis along with plenty of spice elements. The rich and relatively full-bodied flavors possess fine intensity and good minerality, all wrapped in a somewhat grippy finish that doesn’t display the length that it normally does. We’ll see if this harmonizes in time.Burghound | 89-91 BH

The Dauvissat holdings have been reduced to three parcels now - two above the road and one below it - but there has been no corresponding drop in the quality of this superb wine. Still showing quite a bit of oak at this young age, it has salty, savoury, iodine-scented intensity, impressive concentration and the energy and balance to age superbly in bottle. Always one of the best wines in the appellation. (Drink between 2022-2033)Decanter | 96 DECBright medium yellow. At once penetrating and refined on the nose, with high-pitched aromas of lemon, orange zest and oyster shell accented by cinnamon and ginger spice notes. Wonderfully juicy and vibrant in the middle palate, conveying an impression of outstanding tactile density without weight. Flavors of pineapple, white pepper and salty minerality are at once generous and chewy. This beautifully balanced, fresh grand cru boasts outstanding inner-mouth energy and finishes with steadily rising length and an impression of solidity. This wine, incidentally, was spectacular from the outset. (picked on September 29 with between 12.5% and 13% potential alcohol, according to Dauvissat; 4.5 g/l acidity)Vinous Media | 96 VMThe 2018 les Clos from Domaine Dauvissat is another absolutely superb wine in the making. It offers up a deep, pure and complex bouquet of pear, apple, minerality that is both flinty and chalky in personality, citrus blossoms and a bit of lemon peel in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and rock solid at the core, with a bit more early reserve than the les Preuses is showing right now. The finish is very, very long, mineral-driven and snappy, with excellent focus and grip and impeccable balance. First class les Clos in the making. (Drink between 2026-2075)John Gilman | 95+ JGAromas of pear, green apple and citrus oil mingling with hints of fresh bread and oyster shell introduce Dauvissat's 2018 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos, a full-bodied, layered wine that's ample and elegantly muscular, girdled by bright acids and revealing more overt structure than Les Preuses at this stage. Concluding with a long, chalky finish, even in the demonstrative 2018 vintage, this will merit a bit of patience.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95+ RPThis is so much more closed than many other Les Clos 2018s I have tasted. It has super flinty white peaches and yellow grapefruit, almond pastry and also some weight to the core. A sweeping, smooth palate that carries such intensity and such an assertively rich and layered feel. The rich DNA of this parcel is delivered with such precision and carefully stacked fruit that drives deep into the finish. Such density and yet such elegance here.James Suckling | 95-96 JSHere the brooding and very restrained nose is certainly ripe yet it's still almost classic with its aromas of mineral reduction, citrus peel, sea breeze, oyster shell and apple. Once again, the mouthfeel of the larger-scaled flavors is quite sleek with outstanding intensity along with abundant minerality while exhibiting excellent power on the dense and serious and bone-dry finish that also displays huge length. I did note just enough backend warmth to mention though otherwise this is superb. (Drink starting 2030)Burghound | 94 BH