Burgundy White Wines

wines

The 2018 Mercurey 1er Cru Les Champs Martin offers up lovely aromas of crisp golden orchard fruit, lime zest, linden blossom and beeswax, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny but incisive palate with an elegantly textural attack that segues into a deep and mineral core. Once again, this cuvée has turned out brilliantly.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPChamps Martin faces south and is one of the warmer white wines sites in Mercurey, producing a correspondingly richer style. Ripe and even a little exotic, with flavours of nectarine and pear, it has some balancing chalky freshness, mid-palate texture and scented 15% new wood. Drinking Window 2020 - 2026.Decanter | 92 DEC

Bouchères features some of the domaine’s lightest soils and is comparatively high on the slope. The result tends to be fresh, elegant and even a little ethereal by Meursault standards, with considerable zip, salinity and freshness. The 15% new wood is just a whisper in the background here, complementing the focused, citrus-edged fruit.Decanter | 95 DECA more elegant, pure and airy nose mixes notes of lavender, acacia and rose petal with those of hazelnut and poached pear. There is a notably finer texture to the utterly delicious, sleek, intense and beautifully delineated flavors that possess a lovely mid-palate succulence that contrasts with the complex, stony and sneaky long finish. This is a really lovely Bouchères of finesse.Burghound | 93 BHAromas of pears, marzipan, white flowers and spices introduce the 2018 Meursault 1er Cru Bouchères, a medium to full-bodied, succulent and lively wine that’s elegant and fine-boned. This is a pretty, precise Bouchères that should offer a broad drinking window.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90-92 RP(Meursault “Bouchères”- Domaine des Comtes Lafon) The 2018 Bouchères was already racked into tank, and perhaps it had not yet really recovered from its racking, so my impression may be slightly unjust to this wine. I had the feeling that this was really the only wine in the entire Lafon cellars this year that showed the torrid side of the vintage a bit in its personality, as the nose offers up a very ripe blend of apple, passion fruit, hazelnut, a good base of soil tones and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and nicely plump at the core, with bright acids and good length and grip on the well-balanced finish. Today, this seems just a touch heavier in its footsteps than the other Meursault bottlings of 2018, and this may be a reflection of the slightly warmer microclimate of Bouchères, or just a result of it having been racked not too far ahead of my visit. I have scored the wine in a range, as I tasted this with Léa Lafon prior to her father returning (and of course, I forgot to ask when he joined us, as I was then in the afterglow of the stellar Charmes!), and she could not recall exactly when it had been assembled. (Drink between 2023 - 2050)John Gilman | 90-92 JGThe 2018 Meursault Bouchères 1er Cru has a rather generic bouquet, missing a little personality, correct but not the most memorable. Touches of camphor emerge with aeration at least offering more dimension. The palate is well balanced with a sappy core of orange rind and lemon peel. A little terse, almost Puligny-esque, with a persistent finish. With time in the glass, those aromatics begin to reveal nuances and it ends up being quite a cerebral Meursault, albeit one entering a dumb phase. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 white tasting.Vinous Media | 91+ VM

A fluid, harmonious style, offering light toast notes wrapped around flavors of peach, apple and lemon. Firm and clean on the finish. Drink now through 2025. 375 cases made, 80 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

Struck flint and salty mineral tones accent this ripe yet gorgeously smoky white. Fermented via indigenous yeast and matured entirely in stainless steel, the translucent wine is bolstered by voluminous richness. Held upright by tangs of lemon and steel, this chalk-edged wine is approachable young but will likely hit peak from 2023 to 2028 and hold further. ANNA LEE C. IIJIMAWine Enthusiast | 95 WE

A subtle note of wet chalk plays into lemony ripeness on this wine’s gentle nose. The palate has smooth, lemony and concentrated flow, showing understated energy that seems powered by the twin forces of warm sunshine and cool, chalky depth. It’s a wine of precision and depth.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WE

The 2018 Chablis Vau de Vey was cropped at 58hl/ha and matured in 50% barrels and 50% stainless steel for 12 months. It has a clean, pure bouquet of yellow plum, orange pith and light crushed stone notes. The palate conveys energy right from the start, revealing hints of blood orange and quince, racy acidity and an elegant, very persistent finish that lingers in the mouth. Superb.Vinous Media | 94 VMA lovely, slightly reductive note of smoke swathes green pear notes on the nose of this wine. The palate adds lemony juiciness to sonorous notes of smoky oak that surround lively Mirabelle fruit. On the finish, bright lemon adds poise, elegance and length.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE

The 2018 Chablis Village, matured for 12 months in 80% stainless steel and 20% used oak, has a vibrant, fresh, classic Chablis nose that many other growers were not able to achieve in this warm year. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, vibrant and zesty, showing a touch of spice on the elegant finish. This must surely be one of the finest Chablis Village of 2018.Vinous Media | 92 VMA touch of wet walnut accompanies pear and lemon on this wine’s fresh nose. Vivaciousness at the core belies the heat of the 2018 vintage. Yes, there is concentration and some midpalate weight, but salty, preserved-lemon freshness dominates the wine and bright finish.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE

The 2018 Chablis Vauprin comes from 1.7ha of 25-year-old vines and is raised for 12 months in 50% oak barrels and 50% stainless steel. It has a very harmonious bouquet of yellow flowers, mirabelle, crushed rocks and light hazelnut aromas that attain impressive intensity with aeration. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity; there is real tension and race here. The finish fans out wonderfully and its persistence deserves applause considering the relatively unknown location of this vineyard. Highly recommended.Vinous Media | 93 VMResonant notes of roasted hazelnut on the nose of this wine sit well with the lemon brightness. The palate carries the same nuttiness but puts lemon freshness center stage. This slightly smoky combination is bedded on a smooth but cooling, yeasty texture, with beautiful length. Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE

This comes from two parcels, facing east and south-west, respectively, making a very tidy 2.5ha in total. Showing the delicate touch of one of the very best winemakers in Chablis, this is a saline, focused, wonderfully structured Preuses that has plenty of grip and acidity, sappy, bone-dry flavors and remarkable length. The grands crus of Les Clos and Bougros, Côte de Bouguerots scored 96 and Valmur 95.Decanter | 97 DECFunky reduction still dominates this wine’s nose with yeasty fumes, but underneath bright lemon notes shine through. The palate comes in with compact concentration and bundled but buffered energy. Drive and verve are packed in 2018’s generosity, with a slender, bright core that conveys mouthwatering refreshment. The chalky finish is long and fresh. Drink by 2035.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEThe 2018 les Preuses is even a bit more reserved out of the blocks than the stellar Valmur this year, but it is clearly a wine of enormous potential. The nose delivers a great combination of pear, lemon, straw, kaleidoscopic, chalky minerality, white flowers and a topnote of paraffin. On the palate the wine is deep, pure and still quite primary, with a full-bodied format, a rock solid core and superb cut and backend mineral drive on the very, very long and very promising finish. A simply stellar example of this magical terroir! (Drink between 2026 - 2070)John Gilman | 95+ JGThe 2018 Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses is another beautiful wine from Fèvre, wafting from the glass with pretty aromas of orange blossom, oyster shells, citrus zest and fresh pear. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, it’s ample but precise, with racy acids and an intensely saline, mineral finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPLots of bitter-lemon character with dried apples, steel and some dried white pineapple. Full-bodied with bright acidity and a fruity finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 94 JSThe 2018 Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru is the most straitlaced and austere on the nose among Fèvre’s Grand Crus, but unlike the Valmur, intuition tells me that this is saving something for later. The palate is well balanced with a lightly spiced opening, and a little more viscous than the other Grand Crus, with that spicy leitmotif of Preuses. Good potential, but cellar this for 3–5 years.Vinous Media | 93+ VMThis is one of the most elegant wines in the range with its cool and admirably airy and pure aromas of citrus zest, oyster shell, seashore and gentle wood nuances. The mouthfeel of the medium-bodied flavors combines volume with refinement while delivering excellent length on the balanced, stony and markedly dry finale. This is not quite as concentrated or complex as the best here but as it usually is, it’s a marvelous wine of refinement and punch.Burghound | 93 BHRipe notes of peach and green plum are offset by wild herb and bitter citrus peel accents in this tensile white. It finishes on the compact side, with fine length. Drink now through 2027. 100 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

The 2018 Chablis Côte de Jouan 1er Cru has a gorgeous bouquet of lemon curd, orange pith and honeysuckle scents that seem to grab the olfactory senses. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, taut and crisp, leading to a complex finish of sour lemon, kumquat and saline notes that linger on the aftertaste. Superb.Vinous Media | 93 VM

A decadent complexity of yellow peach, smoky nuts and fragrant almonds with beautifully crafted oak, superb acidity and a long, powerful finish. Truly delicious.Decanter | 95 DEC

The 2018 Chablis Montmains 1er Cru shows a little more definition and terroir expression compared directly with the Montée de Tonnerre. Lemon peel, touches of crushed stone and dried flowers almost reluctantly emerge with aeration. The palate is powerful and expressive, with a honeyed texture...Vinous Media | 92 VMThis is also quite cool with its restrained, airy and more elegant nose that features notes of mineral reduction, oyster shell and white flowers. The racy and beautifully well-delineated middle weight flavors deliver excellent persistence on the clean, notably dry and bracing finale where a hint of bitter lemon appears.Burghound | 90-92 BHThis has attractive peach and peach-kernel aromas with hints of flint and almond pastry. The palate has a very fleshy and succulent feel with apricot, mango and yellow-peach flavors. A steely-mineral spark below. Drink on release.James Suckling | 91-92 JS

Burgundy insiders have known for some time that this is one of the region’s great bargains, a ’simple’ village Auxey-Duresses that’s as tasty as many Côte de Beaune Premiers Crus. With notes of fresh lemons, aromatic baking spices, chalk dust and scented 10% new oak, it has wonderful weight and concentration and a mineral-etched finish. Drinking Window 2021 - 2026.Decanter | 93 DECVery fresh and elegant with a fine, citrus, pear and peach feel and a chalky and mineral nose and palate. Powerful, driving and focused palate here. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 91 JSThe 2018 Auxey-Duresses Blanc Les Hautés has turned out brilliantly, offering up aromas of crisp Anjou pear, blanched almonds, white flowers, pastry cream and struck flint. Medium to full-bodied, it’s deep and layered, built around an elegantly muscular chassis of chalky dry extract and underpinned by lively acids. Its almost tannic grip lends it supplemental freshness and structure in this warm vintage. This is another brilliant wine from Jean-Marc Vincent.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RP

The 2018 Rully 1er Cru needs quite a bit of air to find its focus, which is rather surprising for a wine at this level, and something I imagine most readers would not expect. Initially rather clunky, the 2018 opens to reveal layers of citrus, chalk and floral notes, all buttressed by bright acids. The 2018 finds its stride only after having been opened for a few hours.Antonio Galloni | 90 AG

Chalky, floral and very fresh with custard-like notes and a lime edge to the nose. The palate delivers a very contained, succulent feel with a racy-acidity and mineral wash, across fresh melon and lemon pastry. Density here is a feature. Drink or hold on release.James Suckling | 93-94 JS(Chablis “Vaulorent”- Domaine Patrick Piuze) After this vineyard being too heavily-frosted in 2017 to produce a wine from, I was very happy to see it once again back in the Domaine Piuze lineup in 2018. This is a dynamite premier cru, offering up a precise and complex bouquet of apple, pear, a touch of blood orange, a very complex base of minerality, dried flowers and a bit of straw in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and vibrant, with a great core, laser-like focus and lovely cut and grip on the long, balanced and very classy finish. (Drink between 2023-2055)John Gilman | 93+ JGThe 2018 Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent numbers among the highlights of the Piuze range this year, unfurling in the glass with notes of lime zest, lemon oil, oyster shells and white flowers. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, with superb concentration, excellent tension at the core and a pure, precise finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPLemon cake, apple, floral and light vanilla flavors grace this supple, juicy white, with a creamy texture. Lively acidity keeps this all balanced and focused. The fluid feel makes this approachable now, yet it should develop further over the short term. Drink now through 2025. 248 cases made, 73 cases imported. Wine Spectator | 92 WS

In spite of the ripe-orange and exotic-fruit character that pours from the glass, there’s nothing superficial about this wine. Thanks to its generosity and very attractive fruit, this makes a very friendly initial impression on the palate, then the intense minerality comes through, building to a serious crescendo at the very fresh finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 96 JSA rich, opulent white, this features lemon cake, lime blossom, baking spice and stone flavors. Though intense, there’s also a sense of restraint, yet the finish is long and complex. Drink now through 2027. 630 cases made, 66 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS(Domaine du Pavillon (Pommard) - Domaines Albert Bichot Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru White) Smoky aromas of Granny Smith apples, acacia and a plethora of citrus influences are trimmed in discreet wood influence. There is fine volume to the delicious and almost creamy larger-scaled flavors that brim with both dry extract and minerality on the lemon-tinged and youthfully austere finale. This compact and serious effort should definitely benefit from mid-term or perhaps even a decade of cellaring. (Drink starting 2027)Burghound | 93 BHBichot has 1.2ha in Languettes, high on the slope, with a south/south-east exposition. The southern exposition is of major importance here, if one is to avoid over-ripeness. In 2019, the wine has very exotic, almost tropical aromas, while on the palate the texture is dense and creamy, and the ripe pear fruit touched with honey is even more apparent. A wine of luxurious charm. Drinking Window 2024 - 2039.Decanter | 92 DECThe 2019 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru comes from 1.2 hectares of vines in Les Longuettes. Matured in 35% new oak, it has a perfumed nose of yellow fruit, nectarine and peach skin aromas. The palate is well balanced with a light pineapple and passion fruit opening and well-judged acidity. Very harmonious, with a gentle landing on the finish. Maybe it is missing some tension and nerve, but the flavors are irresistible. Vinous Media | 90-92 VM

The 2019 Meursault La Barre, which was bottled just before harvest, has quite a rich, generous bouquet despite a very light reduction, wild honey intermingling with almond and subtle menthol aromas. The palate is rounded and lightly honeyed on the entry, the light tropical notes – passion fruit, guava and white peach – all vying for attention. This is clearly going to be difficult to resist in its youth, but the impressive substance of this Meursault should guarantee a decade’s worth of drinking pleasure. Vinous Media | 91 VM