Burgundy Wines

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Tasted at the La Tâche vertical at The Square. I tasted the La Tâche 1991 twice within 24 hours: the first ex-domaine and the second purchased from auction in Switzerland, both with Aubert de Villaine present. The former was the best, right? Wrong. It was actually the second that clearly delivered, the ex-domaine example so brutally backward that it was more impressive than a wine to love. That was not the case with the second. The nose was unapologetically ethereal with mineral-laden black fruit with hints of cold wet limestone and peaty moorland on a gloomy winter's day. The precision is quite astonishing. The palate is perfectly balanced as it glides effortlessly across the mouth, intense rather than powerful, a gentle crescendo that fans out gracefully on the finish. I have always had faith in the 1991 La Tâche and now it is coming out of the shadow of the 1990 and proving once and for all, which wine is the greater.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 97 RP-NMThe 1991 La Tâche Grand Cru is a vintage tasted four or five times and I always prefer it to the 1990. Aubert de Villaine once remarked that it was the first vintage that he felt was fully his. I have encountered ex-domaine bottles that have been ferociously backward and require several hours of decanting. This bottle is not ex-domaine but as good as you will find. Beguiling complexity with intense mineralité on the nose, remarkable precision with that moorland scents I have noticed before. Wow. The palate is exquisitely balanced with an intensity that can knock you sideways. Crystalline in purity, the structure on the finish threatens to be too much, but I think time has mollified those tannins. Extraordinarily good but my word, you need patience. Tasted at a private dinner in Hong Kong.Vinous Media | 97 VM(Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche Grand Cru Red) I have long been an admirer of this wine as it is dazzlingly elegant and very densely fruited with knock out aromas of spice, dried rose petals, clove, anise and black pepper that are followed by somewhat austere, rich, concentrated and gorgeously persistent flavors that exude a fine minerality on the gorgeously long finish. The intensity here is really something to see and it just oozes class and refinement. It's worth pointing out that this is sufficiently close to its peak that it could be approached now with an hour's worth of air. Multiple examples and very consistent notes, in fact I've never had a substandard bottle. (Drink starting 2016)Burghound | 96 BH(La Tâche- Domaine de la Romanée-Conti) This is a brilliant vintage for La Tâche. The very, very deep bouquet soars from the glass to deliver a stunning potpourri of ripe plums, dark berries, incipient notes of beetroot, intense La Tâche soil tones, nutmeg, game, chocolate and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, deep and pure, with nearly the same creamy mid-palate opulence of the 1989 La Tâche, but with much better focus, structure and grip. The finish is long, ripely tannic and very impressively long. I would opt for giving this wine another five years or so in the cellar to fully apogee, and then drink it with wild abandon over the ensuing twenty-five or thirty years. Never in my wildest dreams did I think I would give the nod to La Tâche over Henri Jayer’s Cros Parantoux, but as stunning as the Jayer is in this vintage, the La Tâche is just a notch better. Great juice. (Drink between 2006-2025)John Gilman | 96 JGVery good color. This is fresh and succulent, with saturated cherry and currant flavors. It's bright and well balanced, but the dense tannins dominate the finish. A muscular style that requires time yet.--La Tâche non-blind vertical. Best from 2015 through 2040. 1,428 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

Ripe and generous, shaded with nicely integrated, spicy oak, this great wine reveals many extra dimensions and oozes with anise, currant and blackberry flavors that go on and on, seemingly forever.--Red Burgundy vertical. 916 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WSI have had this wine many times and it has always been one of my favorite ’91s. Unfortunately, a number of bottles tasted within the last 3 years were already on the decline, having lost that wonderful velvety quality that I once so much admired. While not unpleasant, it’s clear that these bottles are not what they should be as there is a toastiness that comes up on the finish and renders it ever so slightly bitter along with a bit of unresolved structure. However, a bottle tasted in Los Angeles that was air freighted from the Domaine only 3 weeks prior was simply outstanding with a wonderful nose of exotic spices and subtle yet seductive game and smoky hints followed by rich, warm and pure flavors of superb depth and length with plenty of finishing velvet. And the most recent bottle that was tasted in France was also outstanding though as my comments suggest, I have encountered significant bottle variation with scores ranging from 87 to 94.Burghound | 94 BHTasted alongside Frédéric Mugnier’s 1991 Musigny, this too has an excellent colour with real depth at the heart. There are some extractive tannins but with a very considerable volume of deep and dark red fruit. Then both tannins and acidity. Still a baby. With time in the glass the fruit expanded further than was the case for Mugnier’s wine, without quite throwing off the firmer nature of the structural aspects.Jasper Morris | 94 JMWealthy collectors should not miss the opportunity to see whether the 1991 equals or surpasses the 1990 Musigny-Vieilles Vignes made at the Comte de Vogue. The saturated, dense purple color is magnificent. The big, yet unformed bouquet of framboise, cassis, vanillin, and minerals suggests the wine is loaded. It is. Powerful, rich, concentrated, and marvelously clean and pure, this irrefutably impressively endowed, large-scaled red burgundy exhibits a Medoc-like austerity and structure, as well as a squeaky clean, international style. It will be interesting to see what develops over the next 15-20 years. Do not drink it before the turn of the century; it should last an uncommonly long time for modern day burgundy. Very impressive!Robert Parker | 93 RPThe last bottle I tasted of the 1991 Musigny “Vieilles Vignes” from the Comte de Vogüé was quite a bit more roasted and almost malty in personality than this bottle, and I am not sure if my last bottle was not entirely pristine, or if the wine is just starting to emerge from an extended period of adolescence and is offering more precision and complexity at age twenty-four than it did at age twenty. In any case, this bottle was really quite lovely, albeit, still crafted in the more extracted style that was prevalent at the domaine in this era, as it offers up a deep and complex nose of red and black cherries, a touch of blood orange, woodsmoke, gamebird, lovely herb tones, coffee, soil tones and smoky new wood. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and rock solid at the core, with fine complexity and soil signature, melting tannins, sound acids and excellent length and grip on the fairly powerful, but well-balanced finish. This is so much more enjoyable than the last few bottles of this wine that I tasted that I have hopes it is really starting to blossom and will prove to be far better than I initially anticipated. (Drink between 2015 - 2045)John Gilman | 93 JG

The saturated, medium-to-dark ruby-colored 1997 Clos de la Roche has intensely spicy, candle wax, and blackberry aromas. This full-bodied and broad wine is opulently-textured and filled with sweet plummy red fruits, jammy candied cherries, as well as hints of hoisin sauce. Its extensive finish reveals loads of well-ripened, supple tannins. Anticipated maturity: now-2010.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPAt twenty years of age, the 1997 Clos de la Roche is fabulous, although the magnum format surely helps. Deep, ample and broad on the palate, the 1997 shows the volume that Clos de la Roche can show with time in bottle. Smoke, tobacco, licorice and a host of dark-fleshed fruits give the wine its brooding, virile personality. The 1997 is shockingly inward for a wine of its age. Laurent Lignier adds that rackings were complicated in 1997. Perhaps that comes through in the wine’s brooding personality. Even so, the 1997 can only be described as a success, especially within the context of a year that was marked by up and down weather and uneven ripening. Hints of orange peel, dried rose petals and mint add an exotic flair. Readers who enjoy mature Burgundies will flip out over the 1997.Vinous Media | 94 VMExtraordinary quality for the vintage. Rich, ripe and ultrasmooth, with clean aromas of pure red berry and blackberry backed by oak-infused vanilla, spice and smoke. Dark and full-bodied, with a long finish that unfolds deliciously as the flavors linger. Drink now through 2007.Wine Spectator | 93 WSA very ripe but not roasted nose of spicy red pinot fruit trimmed in subtle earth and underbrush notes leads to elegant and moderately powerful flavors that deliver much better than average delineation than is typically found in this vintage. This is not an espeically big or dense wine yet there is a lovely inner force and though the flavors have not quite arrived at their peak, neither are they too far off. I would hold for another 2 to 3 years and drink this over the ensuing 5 to 8.Burghound | 91 BH

(Domaine Pousse d'Or Volnay "Caillerets - Clos des Soixante Ouvrées" 1er 1er Cru Red) The ripest nose to this point exhibits liqueur-like notes of plum, blue berry and violets that complement well the equally ripe, opulent and mineral-inflected flavors that are also quite full-bodied, all wrapped in a detailed, vibrant and hugely long finish. The underlying material here is superb and this should easily improve for the next 12 to 15 years and last for an equivalent period thereafter. (Drink starting 2021)Burghound | 94 BHGood full, bright red. Reticent but pure aromas of redcurrant, truffle and licorice; subdued but not at all roasted. Silky on entry, then dry and rich in the middle, with excellent depth and verve to the flavors of black and red fruits and spices. Very nicely judged extraction here has given the wine superb balance for 2009. The tannins seem a bit tougher today than the 2010 version, and this wine conveys an impression of lowish pH, suggesting that it will be long-lived. Cellarmaster Christophe Bouillot noted that a young parcel of ten-year-old vines provided acidity, while another one, where the vines are at least 60 years old, contributed inner-mouth energy, length and nobility of tannins.Vinous Media | 93 VMThe 2009 Volnay Clos des Soixante Ouvrees is one of the more delicate wines in the lineup. Here the fruit shows a redder tonality, while the structural components work more on linearity rather than depth. This is another thrilling wine from Pousse d-Or. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2049.This is a stunning set of wines from Patrick Landager. The vintage yielded a set of super-sized, big wines that may shock some readers for their sheer intensity. These are among some of the most backward 2009s I tasted and will require considerable patience. The estate now farms a total of 19 hectares, which includes the vineyards Landager acquired when he bought Domaine Moine-Hudelot a few years back. In 2009 Landager started harvesting on September 22, when most people were already finished picking. Cuvaison started with 5-6 days of cold maceration and lasted a total of three weeks with one punchdown in the morning and a second in the afternoon. The wines spent 12-15 months in oak (roughly 30% new) on their fine lees with no rackings until they were prepared for bottling, which took place with no fining or filtration. (Note: the Chambolle saw 50% new oak). All of the 2009s were bottled in early February 2010.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPA delicious, soft wine, packed with ripe, almost sweet red fruits. More complexity comes from the integrated wood and acidity, although approachability is the dominant character.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE

(Domaine Georges Roumier Morey St. Denis "Clos de la Bussière" 1er 1er Cru Red) I have never been a huge fan of this wine as I often find it to be somewhat coarse, and while always very good, I am rarely moved by it. However, in 2010, as was the case in 2009, this is much better than it usually is with a relatively perfumed nose that includes notes of earth along with the natural sauvage character of the vineyard. In fact there is even a certain elegance to the attractively layered airy and cool red berry liqueur aromas. There is good richness and fine volume to the moderately robust and muscular flavors that culminate in a balanced and linear finish that evidences mild austerity. I quite like this as the tannins are finer than usual and there is a real sense of harmony and completeness. (Drink starting 2020).Burghound | 92 BHStarts out tight, with currant, kirsch, spice and earth flavors. Rounds out with a few hours of aeration, offering black cherry and tobacco notes. Balanced, displaying a firm finish for now. Best from 2016 through 2028. 170 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS(Morey St. Denis “Clos de la Bussière”- Domaine Georges Roumier) The 2010 Clos de la Bussière still had a bit of gas left on the palate from its late malo, but underneath was a very promising bottle in the making. It is my impression that this cuvée has been getting consistently more elegant out of the blocks in the last several years and the style of the 2010 vintage certainly is going to amplify that impression. The refined nose offers up scents of red and black cherries, espresso, gamebirds, fine base of minerality, mustard seed and woodsmoke in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and beautifully transparent (this is particularly noticeable with the 2010, as this is not a quality I would normally associate with young Clos de la Bussière), with sappy core of fruit, ripe tannins and excellent length and grip on the classy finish. I may be underrating this wine a touch, as it is really one of the crankier wines in the cellar at the present time- albeit, with fine potential. (Drink between 2017-2045).John Gilman | 91 JGGood bright, deep red. Briary dark berries, black cherry, menthol and a smoky nuance on the nose. Rich and quite ripe, with deep dark berry and smoke flavors perked up by mint and minerals. At once dense and agreeable for this cuvee.Vinous Media | 91 VM

Bright, dark red. Very ripe, musky aromas of red berries, cherry, spices, mocha and underbrush. Sappy and supple, with harmonious acidity giving shape to the seamless red fruit flavors. Quite suave and rich but not at all thick or heavy. Finishes with very fine tannins and superb length and lift. Owner Patrick Landanger told me that he has pulled out 40% of the old virused vines in this vineyard since the 2009 harvest, as they were yielding very little crop.Vinous Media | 93 VM(Domaine Pousse d'Or Volnay "Clos de la Bousse d'Or" 1er 1er Cru Red) This is slightly more complex if not more elegant with a more floral-infused nose that includes rose petal and violets on the plum and black cherry infused nose. There is excellent concentration to the detailed, intense and delicious flavors that possess that beguiling sense of underlying tension that carries over to the mouth coating and suave yet firm and enduring finish. (Drink starting 2020)Burghound | 92 BH

Full, deep red. Sexy scents of black raspberry, licorice, violet and minerals, plus torrefaction notes of espresso and mocha. More tightly wound on the palate than the young 2012; less horizontal and broad at this stage but wonderfully thick, fine-grained, savory and precise, with its multidimensional flavors of dark fruits, spices, minerals and flowers given an added element of complexity by savory soil tones. Manages to be both velvety and light on its feet, and ultimately suppler than the ’12. This exceptional young grand cru finishes with utterly mellow, perfect integrated tannins, explosive rising length and penetrating salty minerality. In short, a great expression of soil and a classic example of its vintage. (13.7% alcohol; 3.34 pH; 20 h/h)Vinous Media | 96 VMThere is just enough wood to be visible but it should be absorbed in short order. Interestingly, the aromatic profile is relatively similar to that of the Griotte, though this has significantly more depth and concentration to the full-bodied, powerful and explosive flavors that benefit greatly from the exceptional depth of material before culminating in a massively long and impeccably well-balanced finish. Sometimes the Roty Charmes displays its wood for years but the 2010 version appears as though it will eat it sooner than usual. In short, this is a stunner of a wine that clearly outclasses its two grands crus stable mates so if you can find it buy it.Burghound | 95 BH

The 2011 Charmes-Chambertin is pure pleasure. Black cherries, plums, cloves, violets and new leather are all woven together in a fabric of notable class. Here it is the wine’s extraordinary textural finesse and overall harmony that take over all of the senses. There is so much to like here, including the wine’s generous, inviting personality. The Charmes has really come on strong over the last year.Vinous Media | 95 VMAn ultra-fresh, cool and equally pure nose features a plethora of red berry scents along with notes of earth, spice, underbrush and a floral element that adds aromatic lift. Not surprisingly, the ripe broad-shouldered flavors are bigger, richer and more powerful with plenty of punch before culminating in a focused, balanced and solidly persistent finish. This will need at least a decade to arrive at its majority but it should be excellent when it does so.Burghound | 93 BHMoving on to the trio of Claude Dugat’s Grand Crus, the 2011 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a quintessential “Charmes” bouquet with vivacious scents of dark cherry, blueberry and quince, suffused with an almost sorbet-like freshness. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly sinewy entry. It coalesces in the second half and displays very fine, supple tannins with plenty of juicy Pinot fruit just cloaked under the 100% new oak at the moment, although everything is balanced and in sync. I would afford this three or four years in bottle for it to fully integrate. Drink 2016-2025.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RP

The 2012 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru comes from Claudes’ 0.25-hectare parcel of vines. It has a strong marine influence on the nose that is well defined and expressive, carrying and absorbing the new oak with ease. The palate is medium-bodied with a satin-like texture, very well judged acidity and the new oak beautifully interwoven into the intense sorbet-fresh fruit on the harmonious finish. This is one of the finest wines from this vineyard.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94-96 RPA spicy and beautifully layered nose of fresh and markedly ripe red berry fruit liqueur, earth and spice nuances is trimmed in just enough wood to notice. The rich, round and broad-shouldered flavors possess good depth and a highly seductive mouth feel before terminating in an utterly delicious and strikingly complex finish that delivers outstanding length. I like the balance and this beauty should effortlessly improve during the next 15 years or so.Burghound | 94 BHBright, deep red. The nose shows a liqueur-like quality to the aromas of cherry, raspberry and mocha. Big, broad and sweet, delivering excellent dimension and depth and considerable power. The rich red fruit, coffee and cocoa powder flavors carry well on the sweet, very long finish, which is nicely shaped by the wine’s tanic spine. This is less taut than it appeared to be from barrel a year ago, but it needs time to burn off some of its baby fat.Vinous Media | 93+ VM

ean-Nicolas Méo’s 2020 Clos Vougeot is really, really refined this year. The wine delivers a complex and very pure aromatic constellation of red and black cherries, plums, dark chocolate, gamebird, violets, a touch of fresh nutmeg, complex soil tones and a nice foundation of new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, focused and complex, with a lovely core of sappy fruit, excellent mineral undertow and grip, ripe, buried tannins and impeccable balance on the long, suave and classy finish. Fine, fine juice. (Drink between 2035 - 2095)John Gilman | 94+ JGApart from 2017, Jean-Nicolas Méo only makes one commercially available cuvée of his substantial holding of Clos de Vougeot. Even purple throughout. This is a sturdy, weighty, richly dark fruited, multi-layered wine, with great potential for the long term. Ripe but not exaggerated. Tasted: December 2021.Jasper Morris | 94-97 JMThe 2020 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru is very promising, unfurling in the glass with aromas of wild berries, cherries, orange rind, potpourri and loamy soil. Full-bodied, velvety and concentrated, it’s seamless and complete, with superb depth at the core and a long, resonant finish. It will be fascinating to compare with the 2019 rendition in two decades’ time.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPThe 2020 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru had to shake off a little reduction before revealing its minerally blackberry, raspberry and cassis fruit. Wilted rose petal emerge with time. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, nicely focused yet surprisingly strict and linear at the moment. This will gain "shoulders" once in bottle.Vinous Media | 92-95 VMDiscreet but still perceptible wood-suffuses the ripe aromas of black cherry, currant, newly turned earth and a floral top note. There is a lovely sense of underlying tension to the palate coating and nicely detailed medium weight plus flavors that offers excellent depth and persistence on the relatively refined if youthfully austere finale. This is more structured than it usually is and is a wine that is going to require at least a decade of aging first.Burghound | 92-94 BH

The 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin La Marie, named after the lieu-dit close to the Château de Gevrey, has a fragrant bouquet with red cherries, wild strawberries and touches of quince, vivacious and beautifully focused. Saline in the mouth with plenty of energy, gradually building towards a well-proportioned, slightly peppery finish that might deceive you into thinking there were stems in the mix. A level up from the previous vintages.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMThe 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin La Marie is ampler and fuller than the regular Gevrey, unfurling in the glass with notes of dark berries, cherries, warm spices and sweet soil tones. Medium to full-bodied, rich and layered, with a succulent core of fruit and powdery tannins, it’s built to age with grace.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90-92 RPThis is the one wine in the range that was reduced and it’s enough to push the underlying fruit to the background. More interesting are the bigger-bodied and more concentrated flavors that brim with dry extract on the sneaky long and well-balanced finale. This is presently very backward, indeed it’s a bit grumpy, yet the potential for extended cellaring is clearly present. If you have the patience, and can find it, don’t hesitate.Burghound | 90-92 BH