California Classics

wines

Aged 22 months in 100% new French oak, this blend of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon and 17% Merlot reveals a powerful core of red and black fruits, dusty, loamy soil, lavender and a hint of toast. I would not describe it as elegant, but rather, it is a big, backstrapping, Cabernet Sauvignon-based wine that should continue to drink well for 15 or more years.Robert Parker | 95 RPFresh, with herbal dill and currant aromas, this is fresh and concentrated on the palate. Intense, with vivid currant, anise, herb and cedar notes. Ends with a complex aftertaste, firm tannins and good structure. The best of five bottles.--1996 California Cabernet retrospective. Drink now through 2010.Wine Spectator | 93 WS(from a short harvest featuring rain during bloom and a very hot July): Good dark red. Aromas of dark raspberry, plum, spices, mocha and truffley underbrush suggest a concentrated wine. With a pH of 3.74, this wine shows a bit more warmth than the 1994 but the black cherry, plum and dark chocolate flavors are nicely framed by juicy acidity and firm-edged tannins. Not quite as harmonious as the ’94.Vinous Media | 92 VM

Espresso, mocha, cloves, violets and plums all meld together in the 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Backus Vineyard. Rich, sumptuous and layered, the 2010 boasts tons of depth and pure structure. Much more expressive than the 2010 Insignia is today, the Backus is relatively open at this stage. At the same time, though, the underlying structure suggests the 2010 will drink well for many years.Vinous Media | 96 VMThe 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Backus Vineyard (100% Cabernet Sauvignon) achieved nearly 15% natural alcohol, and is aged 24 months in 100% new French oak. It has Pessac-Leognan-like aromas of charcoal, scorched earth, creme de cassis, and a distinct loamy soil/earthy character as well as minerality. Full-bodied, powerful and masculine with mouthstaining levels of extract in addition to mouthwatering levels of tannin, this 2010 needs to be forgotten for at least a decade, and drunk over the following 30-40 years. It could be a 50-year wine.Robert Parker | 90+ RP

The 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon Backus Vineyard has closed down quite a bit since it was bottled in January of this year. Lavender, white flowers, blueberry jam and spices are some of the many notes that reluctantly open up over time. Persistent and silky, the 2011 is easy to appreciate today for its overall balance, but it will be some years before all the elements fully come together.Vinous Media | 95+ VMMany consumers may end up preferring the 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon Backus Vineyard over the 2010 because the vintage produced such forward, precocious, soft wines. Where well-made, they possess plenty of endearing fruit and charm, but they do not have the tannic clout of great vintages such as 2010. A blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot and 3% Malbec, it came in at 14.2% alcohol, but production is a small 800 cases. The bouquet includes attractive notes of scorched earth, chocolate, espresso roast, red and black currants and hints of underbrush and earth. Full-bodied (unusual for a 2011) with soft tannins and loads of fruit, it should drink well for 10-15 years.All of Joseph Phelps’ Sonoma Coast Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs will be included in the Sonoma report in the December, 2013 issue. One of the visionaries in California’s Rhone Ranger movement that began a quarter of a century ago, Phelps continues to focus on their Syrah program. I have mixed emotions about that because they made some wonderful wines from some other Rhone varietals in the past under the terminated Mistral label. On the www.erobertparker.com website, I will be posting one of the most historical vertical tastings I have ever done, that of Joseph Phelps’ proprietary red Bordeaux blend called Insignia, which was one of California’s first proprietary red Meritage wines launched in 1974. While visiting this winery in early September, I had the privilege of tasting every vintage from 1974 to 2012. This has always been a remarkable wine and sadly I am old enough to remember the 1974, to which I gave a great rating, but then suggested it be drunk within 10-12 years. I never thought it would last. Of course, it turned out to be one of the great mature wines of the vertical tasting, but more on that on the web site. The five vintages of Insignia which consumers should be keeping an eye on are 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011 and 2012. Here are my notes on those wines which are either on the market or soon will be. By the way, the production of Insignia over the last 15-20 years has ranged from a low of 10,000-12,000 cases to a whopping 20,000 cases, often with the highest production levels in some of the greatest years. There are usually around 750 to 1,300 cases of the Cabernet Sauvignon Backus Vineyard. Usually 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, it is fashioned from the red soils of the Oakville hillsides (a spectacular sight as you drive south on the Silverado Trail).Robert Parker | 91-93 RP

The 2013 Insignia (their 40th vintage) is a blend of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot, and the rest Merlot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc. This wine is aged 24 months in 100% new French oak barrels, and the production can vary from just over 10,000 cases to nearly 20,000 cases in a very abundant vintage. There were 12,300 cases produced in 2013, and this vintage of Insignia is certainly going to turn out to be one of the great ones. The wine offers a stunning inky blue/purple color, a gorgeous nose of blueberry and blackberry liqueur, pen ink, graphite, new saddle leather and barrique. The wine has fabulous concentration, a full-bodied, multi-layered mouthfeel, and tremendous finish with moderate tannin. It’s interesting to note that the Phelps winemaking staff had been gradually reducing the amount of Merlot in this wine over recent vintages. The 2013 should hit its peak in 5-7 years and last for 35-50.Robert Parker | 98 RPThe mighty Insignia shows a vibrancy of purpose and craft in this, its 40th vintage, combining 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot, 3% Merlot, 3% Malbec and 1% Cabernet Franc. Together they find a higher calling of perfumed violet, dark plum and berry along with graphite and an edginess of dried herb. Firm, structured tannins show tremendous potential for aging and decanting. This is a near-perfect effort from a blockbuster vintage.Wine Enthusiast | 98 WEThe 2013 Insignia is just as magnificent as it has always been. Refined and polished to the core, but with all of the power of the vintage, the 2013 simply has it all. Crème de cassis, lavender, plum and exotic spices infuse this deeply expressive edition of the Phelps flagship wine. The 2013 is remarkably silky for such a big wine.Vinous Media | 97 VMExtravagant aromas of crushed blackberries, mint, eucalyptus and flint. Full body, round and velvety textured. Rich and flavorful finish. Lusciousness with form. Reserved palate. Very attractive now but better in 2020.James Suckling | 95 JSInsignia has been built as a regional blend since its first vintage in 1974, becoming an estate-grown wine in 2004. It’s based on cabernet sauvignon grown in six vineyards, from Suscol in the south to sites in Oak Knoll, Stags Leap and Rutherford, up to Phelps’s Spring Valley Home Ranch in St. Helena. Ashley Hepworth has fine-tuned the style, so Insignia is still a rich wine, but now, especially in 2013, shows the kind of firmness of structure that makes the richness profound. This vintage is fresh and lively, even while it is dense and powerful, as if the power is coming out of the black raspberry fruit as well as the bright, sparkling-fresh mineral tones of the tannins. Delicious now if you give it several hours in a decanter, this is destined to evolve into a classic.Wine & Spirits | 95 W&SInsignia is typically blended around a backbone of Stags Leap District AVA fruit (40% in this vintage), with Southern Napa, Rutherford, Oak Knoll and St Helena making up the balance. It spends 24 months in 100% French oak, and in this vintage the blend is 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot, 3% Merlot, 3% Malbec and 1% Cabernet Franc. The warm 2013 vintage has given ripe black fruit on a supple, forward palate, the lengthy finish framed by granular tannins. Drinking Window 2020 - 2050.Decanter | 94 DECRich and full-bodied, but exhibiting the lift of a brighter red. The dark berry flavors give this an elegant mouthfeel and ease the tannic strength. Tempting now but worth cellaring. Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2018 through 2032. 12,300 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS