California Classics

wines

Smooth, ripe and harmonious, with layers of black cherry, plum, currant and anise, finishing with a smooth texture and a long, lingering aftertaste.--1987 California Cabernet horizontal. Drink now through 2000. 11,025 cases made. — JLWine Spectator | 92 WS

1990 was the first vintage (4,756 cases produced) and one of the most abundant before the replanting became essential because of phylloxera, and was again made at Robert Pepi. However, the percentage of Cabernet Franc jumped to 10% in the final blend. Mia Klein, who worked with Tony Soter, was part of the winemaking team. This wine performed beautifully, and had that Château Margaux-like finesse, elegance and richness. Beautiful blackcurrant notes, graphite, rose petal and licorice, were all present in this deep ruby/plum-colored wine that came across like a Napa version of a first-growth Médoc. It is medium to full-bodied, with beautiful, integrated tannin, acidity and wood. This should continue to drink well for another 10-15-plus years.Robert Parker | 95 RPStill young and firm, this delivers spicy plum and chocolate flavors; it’s polished, balanced and intense. Approachable now.--Spottswoode vertical. Best after 2000. 4,500 cases made.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

A potentially perfect wine, the 1994 Cabernet Sauvignon boasts a fabulous nose of cassis, cream, blueberries, violets, minerals, and spice. It smells like a hypothetical blend of a great vintage of L'Evangile, Clinet, and Mouton-Rothschild. The opaque purple/black color is followed by a full-bodied wine stacked and packed with fruit, glycerin, and extract. No component part is out of place in this formidably endowed, remarkably well-balanced wine. The purity, richness, sweetness and depth of fruit suggest that the wine's potential is limitless. Much like its cellarmate, the 1994 Colgin Cabernet Sauvignon (also made by Helen Turley), the Bryant Family Vineyard's 1994 should evolve into one of California's legendary Cabernets. It will age effortlessly for 25-30 years.Robert Parker | 98 RPImmense, thick, deeply concentrated, loaded with chocolate, black cherry, spicy, nutmeg and vanilla-scented oak. Finishes with bold tannins and impeccable balance. Approachable now, but should last 20 years.--non-blind Bryant Family vertical. Drink now through 2014. 1,400 cases made.Wine Spectator | 97 WS(15.2% alcohol): Good deep red with ruby highlights. Game, truffle, currant and sweet oak on the iniviting nose. Plush and sweet on entry, then a bit green in the middle, with herb, truffle and tobacco leaf flavors dominating underlying redcurrant, plum, floral pastilles and spicecake. Round and ample but also has lift. In a very ripe style and delicious right now. The tannins are resolved but this wine still has plenty of fruit.Vinous Media | 92 VM

I believe the 1995 is the finest produced under the Araujo regime. It is close to perfection. The wine combines extraordinary power and richness with remarkable complexity and finesse. The saturated purple/black color is followed by aromas of sweet vanillin intermixed with riveting scents of black currants, minerals, exotic spices, coffee, and toast. There is nothing garish about this subtle yet powerful giant of a wine. A Napa Valley classic, it is full-bodied and extremely rich, yet retains its sense of balance and symmetry. This fabulous Cabernet Sauvignon should age effortlessly for 30 or more years. Anticipated maturity: 2001-2030.Robert Parker | 98 RPHealthy dark red. Musky, soil-inflected aromas of dark raspberry, strawberry, minerals, tobacco, underbrush, cedar and dried herbs. Wonderfully silky and concentrated, displaying outstanding spicy lift to the vibrant, sharply delineated flavors of berries, coffee, anise and tobacco. Like a hypothetical blend of St. Julien and Graves. This beauty has only gained in clarity through the years as it has absorbed its baby fat. The tannins are firm but suave, in perfect balance with the wine's acidity and fruit. Juicy and subtly long on the aftertaste.Vinous Media | 95 VMA delightfully rich, vibrant and complex wine that is aging very gracefully. The core flavors are well-focused and offer a mix of mature red currant, plum and floral scents, with a touch of anise and mineral on the finish. Ripe tannins let the flavors glide through the finish, where mocha adds a nice added dimension.--1995 California Cabernet retrospective. Drink now through 2015. 2,500 cases made. — JLWine Spectator | 94 WS

The first release from the 20-acre Thorevilos Vineyard (co-owned by David Abreu and Ric Forman) is the 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon Thorevilos, a blend of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot. It is a dense, sweet, black currant-flavored effort with hints of scorched earth, cedar, and flowers in the background. Fruit-driven (mostly blue and black fruits), with a Pomerol-like succulence/lushness, it should drink well young, and evolve for 15+ years.Napa Valley’s most gifted vineyard manager, and certainly a must-hire for those looking to develop great vineyards and produce top quality wines, David Abreu continues to fine tune his own estate, producing some of the most prodigious Cabernet Sauvignons in the world.Robert Parker | 92 RP

The 2001 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select is the first of these back-to-back perfect wines from Shafer that, at age 13, is still a baby, but, wow, what an amazing wine. A fabulous growing season produced a wine with inky/purple black color, stunning crème de cassis notes, with additional hints of lead pencil shavings, spring flowers, cedar wood and forest floor. It is full-bodied, sensationally concentrated, with a seamless integration of acidity, tannin, wood and alcohol. This is a great, monumental Napa Cabernet Sauvignon that is still an infant, at age 13, going on 14. This has got at least three decades of life left in it, and probably won’t hit its peak for another 5-7 years.Robert Parker | 100 RPNo Cabernet smells better. This is an enormously attractive, well-oaked wine constituted from the best possible fruit. In the mouth, it immediately seduces. Shafer knows it has to rise to expectations with this wine, and the 2001 does not disappoint. The fruit is spectacular, all cassis. The oak is rich, flamboyant and delicious. Structurally, the wine has the best tannin-acid structure Napa is capable of. Immediately delicious now, this wine should develop over the next 10 years.Wine Enthusiast | 98 WEAmazing for its richness, depth and concentration, with a wealth of flavors extending to espresso bean, mocha, dark berry, raspberry and cedar, intense and persistent on the long, detailed finish. An immense wine that’s gracefully balanced.—2001 California Cabernet blind retrospective (June 2011). Drink now through 2020. 2,500 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WSImpressive bright ruby-red to the rim. Sexy, complex nose melds scents of plum, currant, dried herbs, game, coffee bean, Baker’s chocolate and tobacco; smells sweet! Plush, sweet and broad from entry through to powerful, building finish. Strong plum, currant, tar, graphite, chocolate and spice flavors are complicated by soil and mineral nuances. Quite generous and thick without going over the top. This has reached its peak but should hold for at least another 10 to 15 years owing to its firm, claret-like spine of fully ripe, broad tannins. Actually less sweet on the palate than the nose suggests--and an answer to those tasters who consider Shafer’s flagship wine to be a bit too sweet and exotic. This is downright classic.Vinous Media | 95 VMFrom vines the Shafers planted in the early 1970s, these volcanic knolls at the foot of Stags Leap offer the family’s best wine, distinctive both for its texture and the grace with which it ages. It’s hard to find a better example of SLD tannins, a combination of dusty earth and chocolate richness so refined that it’s hard to tell where the fruit tannins end and the oak begins. The wine is neither overtly fruity nor in any way super-ripe. The power seems to come right out of the ground. This is a great vintage of Hillside Select that will need years to reach its peak, perhaps from 2010 through ’15 or later.Wine & Spirits | 94 W&S

I was also able to taste a barrel sample of the 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon, and it’s clearly one of the deeper hued 2022s I was able to taste for this report. Darker currants, hints of cassis, scorched earth, and tobacco all emerge on the nose, and it’s medium to full-bodied, has a classic, elegant Spottswood texture, building tannins, and outstanding length.Jeb Dunnuck | 94-96 JDThe 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon, tasted as a barrel sample, is deep purple-black in color. Intense scents of plum preserves, blueberry pie, and creme de cassis give way to wafts of dried roses, star anise, and powdered cinnamon. The medium-bodied palate is velvety and lively, with bags of juicy black and blue fruit preserves leading to a long and spicy finish on this impressive wine.The Wine Independent | 94-96+ TWIDark, layered and imposing, the 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon is a promising wine for the year. Dark red and purplish fruit, spice and rose petals open gradually, wrapped together by firm, large-grained tannins for this site. This core blend represents about 40% of the eventual final blend.Vinous Media | 92-95 VM

From their 40+ acres of vineyard in the very northeasterly sector of Napa, just south of the quaint town of Calistoga, anywhere from 1,600 to 2,200 cases of Cabernet Sauvignon Eisele Vineyard are produced. The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Eisele (a blend of 91% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Merlot) shows wonderfully sweet black currant notes intermixed with some licorice, incense, crushed rock, and floral characteristics. It is deep, medium to full-bodied, with beautiful purity, virtually perfect integration of tannins, and extraordinary length which lasts over 60 seconds. This is an exceptional, seamless Cabernet Sauvignon that is the vinous equivalent of haute couture. This sensationally pure wine (actually the first vintage of the estate Cabernet to have a little Merlot in it, but only 2%) borders on perfection. This is a gorgeously proportioned wine with beautiful floral and black fruit notes intermixed with some mineral and gentle background oak.One of California’s and the world’s great wine estates, Araujo continues to exhibit remarkable consistency and impeccably high quality. Little seems to change other than some minor tweaking with respect to viticulture and winemaking. The team of Bart and Daphne Araujo, their talented longtime winemaker, Francoise Peschon, and the globe-trotting oenologist, Michel Rolland, are to be commended on the extraordinary elegance of these wines.Robert Parker | 98+ RPStunning. Explodes with the most intricately detailed aromas: a perfume of fine smoky oak and ripe black currants. Exudes sheer power, with great weight yet no heaviness. Lush and delicious, but just tannic enough. If you can wait, cellar until 2008, it should hold and improve for many years.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WE(91% cabernet sauvignon, 5% cabernet franc, 2% petit verdot and 2% merlot) Good full red-ruby color. Wonderful floral lift to the expressive aromas of blackcurrant, black raspberry, tobacco, graphite and nutty oak. Dense, thick and sweet but with perfectly integrated acidity framing the deep flavors of currant, tobacco, mocha and earth. Finishes broad, dusty and very long, with the tannins thoroughly buffered by the wine's mid-palate fruit. This boasts real density of extract without any undue heaviness and offers the balance and backbone for a long and positive evolution in bottle. Very long on personality.Vinous Media | 95+ VMSmooth, rich and savory, with dried currant, wild berry and black cherry fruit that has a dusty, savory herb and underbrush flavor that adds complexity, ending with a pretty burst of ripe fruit. This grows on you. Best from 2011 through 2018. 2,600 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS(Araujo Estate, Eisele Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, Calistoga, California, USA, Red) 2005 is one of those vintages where ripeness and new oak are pitted against the Eisele terroir, and while in its style the wine must be judged a success, this isn't really a wine for classicists. Aromas of blueberry, raspberry and ripe blackcurrants are inflected with barrel toast and spice in a sweet melange, following through on the expansive, rich and oaky palate. (Drink between 2016-2020)Decanter | 91 DEC

From another outstanding vineyard, the 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Dr. Crane Vineyard’s scorched earth/burning ember, blueberry, graphite, and black currant characteristics are reminiscent of a top Bordeaux such as La Mission Haut-Brion. Dense, full-bodied and chewy with fabulous concentration, sweet tannins, and remarkable length, this profound Cabernet Sauvignon should last for 25-30 years.Paul Hobbs is one of the most brilliant consultants working in California, and he is well-placed in Argentina with a number of projects there as well. His empire is in the Russian River, and it continues to expand, with a bevy of artisinal hand-made Chardonnays, Pinot Noirs, Cabernet Sauvignons, and more recently, Syrahs. These are full-throttle wines that merit serious attention. He clearly fared very well with his 2006 Chardonnay and Pinot Noir programs, and seems to have hit veritable home runs with the brilliance of these wines as well as his Cabernets and Syrahs in 2007. Paul Hobbs’ 2007 Chardonnays are crisp, full-bodied, intensely flavorful wines with higher than usual levels of vibrancy and freshness because of the acid profiles and cool growing season. In addition to the great success he enjoys with Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Syrah, Hobbs also hits all the high notes with his Cabernet Sauvignons. There are five offerings, starting with his Napa bottling, one of the better generic efforts in the marketplace. Another fabulous vintage for Paul Hobbs, the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignons may ultimately come close to resembling the great successes he has had, including his brilliant 2001s and 2002s.Robert Parker | 95 RPInky ruby. Red- and blackcurrant aromas, with an array of floral and herbal qualities adding complexity. Rich cherry and blackberry flavors are a touch brooding but gain sweetness and spiciness with air. The long finish features dark fruit and tobacco qualities. This one deserves patience.Vinous Media | 92+ VM

A very opulent, yet fresh nose. Perfumed with fresh mushrooms, currants, and blackberries. Full bodied with an amazing density of fruit, and ripe velvety tannins. So big and compacted, with a superb structure. Very 2006 in style but with much more intensity. The fruit amazing and intense. Leave this for another five or six years. 900 cases. Pull the cork after 2016. 15+25+24+34. Find the wineJames Suckling | 98 JSPotentially a candidate for perfection, the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon is the finest Bryant Family wine since the aforementioned 1997. Striking aromas and flavors of blackberries, blueberries, flowers, smoke, truffles, and sweet berries lead to a wine with profound concentration, a silky, layered mouthfeel, perfect integration of tannin and wood, and remarkable depth, intensity, and balance. The finish lasts nearly a minute. This stunning Cabernet should age nicely for 20-30 years.Robert Parker | 98 RPAt points rustic and rough-hewn, but also enormously complex and layered, with dense, elegant herb, olive, cedar, blackberry and wild berry fruit that is full-blown and tightly focused, rich and layered, gaining velocity on the finish while retaining a sense of wildness. Best from 2012 through 2024. 850 cases made.Wine Spectator | 97 WS(14.9%): Healthy ruby-red. Wild plum, dark berries, musky espresso, mocha and graphite on the varietally expressive nose. Shows wonderful mineral verve but this utterly seamless wine still conveys a musky suggestion of reduction. It's also more red than black fruit in style and shows its site more than the vintage character. Really lovely inner-mouth aromatic perfume here. Finishes with fine-grained tannins and lovely slowly building lift. This wine blew away many of the portier, clunkier examples in my 2007 group tastings but it may need earlier drinking than some vintages of Bryant. The silky, seamless finish features a light touch and terrific spice and mocha lift.Vinous Media | 95 VM

A profound wine from a superb Napa vintage for Bordeaux varietals, the 2007’s nose may cause one to overdose on blue, black and red berry fruit. The extraordinary intensity, purity and depth in this rich, flamboyant, exuberant wine are mindboggling. This bigger-than-life Cabernet Sauvignon appears set for 20-30 years of aging. It can be drunk now, but because of its sweet, velvety tannins, it will still be offering sensational drinking in 2040.Robert Parker | 100 RPFull ruby-red. Multifaceted aromas of currant, iron, licorice, tobacco, dried herbs and minerals. The youthful palate boasts outstanding depth and clarity of dark fruit flavors, offering an uncanny combination of powerful structure and finesse. Explosive on the back end, finishing with outstanding palate-saturating breadth and extremely fine-grained tannins. I could see this wine enjoying 25 years of development in bottle, but it should really be forgotten for at least the next 5 or 6. Owner/winemaker Jayson Woodbridge told me this is the best wine he has made to date.Vinous Media | 96 VMRobust, intense and fleshy, offering a full-bodied mix of ripe cherry, plum, wild berry and raspberry fruit that’s pure, rich and layered. Full-bodied, elegant and refined, ending with a subtle medley of ripe berry flavors. Best from 2012 through 2020. 600 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

Blueberries, currants and flowers. The nose just pops out. Intense. Full body, with a round and velvety tannin structure and lots of currants, ripe strawberries. Very intense every. Black pepper at the finish. Muscular yet toned. Very structured yet balanced. This needs a minimum of four to five years of aging. Paul Draper says that perhaps this is as great as the legendary 1991. Made for aging.James Suckling | 97 JS(Cabernet Sauvignon “Monte Bello”- Ridge Vineyards) The 2007 Monte Bello weighs in at a very grown up 13.1 percent alcohol and is a great, great wine in the making. The nose is deep, complex and flat out brilliant, as it offers up scents of pure cassis, a touch of bell pepper, tobacco leaf, espresso, a beautifully complex base of soil and a deft touch of new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and utterly seamless, with a rock solid core of fruit, beautiful, nascent complexity, ripe, well-integrated tannins and stunning length and grip on the palate-staining finish. A stellar Monte Bello. (Drink between 2022-2075)John Gilman | 95 JGRelatively fat for a Monte Bello, this wine shows its richness in fruit rather than playing on weight gained from oak. The freshness of the fruit keeps it firm, finely balanced and clean, a more accessible young wine than this vineyard tends to give. There's a pure cassis flavor running through it, emphasizing the clarity of lovely, ripe Cabernet. As approachable as it may be now, it's substantial enough to age for a decade or more.Wine & Spirits | 94 W&SA retaste of the flagship wine, the 2007 Monte Bello (a blend from this famous estate of 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 9% Petit Verdot, and 2% Cabernet Franc) reveals a dense ruby/purple wine with a floral, blueberry, and earthy cassis nose and elegant mid-weight flavors with impressive purity and classicism. There is good acidity, firm tannin, and modest alcohol (13.1%). This is not the most concentrated or powerful Monte Bello, but one built on finesse and elegance. According to the back label, only 41% of the production made it into this wine from the 103-acre estate vineyard. Give this wine another good 5-7 years of bottle age and drink it over the following 20-25 years.Robert Parker | 92+ RP(13.1% alcohol): Bright ruby-red. Pungent, fresh scents of currant, mocha, tobacco leaf, graphite minerality and brown spices, plus a whiff of leather. A penetrating, youthfully tight midweight with a lovely claret-like balance of currant fruit, minerals and herbal, tobacco-leafy elements. Smooth in texture but enlivened by elevated, almost peppery acidity. Finishes with an element of energy and finesse I don't find in many high-octane Napa Valley examples from this vintage, but then this is a less massive style of Cabernet. The persistent finishing flavors blow past the firm tannins but there's little in the way of easy sweetness today. In fact, I suspect this wine is passing through a sullen stage.Vinous Media | 92+ VM

Medium to deep garnet colored, the 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Kayli Morgan Vineyard has a very pretty rose petal and kirsch-scented nose with a core of red and black currants, black raspberries and oolong tea with hints of truffles and iron ore. The palate is full-bodied, exquisitely textured and wonderfully vibrant with tons of energy and a very long, lively finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RP(15.5% alcohol): Bright medium red. Subtly complex aromas of black raspberry, blackberry, dusty cocoa powder, toffee and licorice; I often find a Pomerol quality to this wine, despite the fact that it’s 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Wonderfully suave and seamless, with a thickness of texture leavened by firm acidity and a hint of herbs. Really lovely class and energy here, in spite of its almost confectionery sweetness. More tightly wound and delineated than the Ark, with darker berry, plum, licorice, toffee and flavors enlivened by minerality and a touch of herbs. This still-youthful wine has loosened up a bit since I last tasted it as part of a spectacular horizontal tasting two years ago and finishes quite harmonious, with serious ripe tannins and integrated acidity. As ripe and thick as this is, there’s a soil-driven, savory, claret-like character that’s captivating. Offers a lighter touch than the Ark. This held up beautifully in the recorked bottle, showing a liqueur-like, velvety sweetness without ever becoming heavy.Vinous Media | 96 VMA rich, supple, graceful style, with gentle layers of wild berry, plum, black licorice, crème de cassis and vanilla. Medium- to full-bodied, with silky tannins and great length. Drink now through 2022. 840 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WSDefines the modern, cult Napa Cabernet style, albeit at a hefty price. Soft and rich in tannins and liberally oaked, it shows massively ripe blackberry, cherry and sandalwood flavors, with a meaty, slightly funky note that adds interest. Easy to like right out of the bottle, it’s so decadent. With high alcohol, it doesn’t seem like a longterm ager, so drink over the next six years.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WE

Medium to deep garnet colored, the 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Kayli Morgan Vineyard gives up bold blackcurrant cordial, blackberry compote and raspberry pie scents with hints of chocolate-covered cherries, roses and lilacs plus hints of charcuterie and yeast extract. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is wonderfully elegant, with wonderful vivacity and perfume and a satiny texture with a very long finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPPure sensuality in the glass, the 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Kayli Morgan Vineyard is going to be nearly impossible to resist in its youth. At the same time, the Kayli Morgan has a track record of developing beautifully in bottle, and I imagine that is exactly what will happen here. Cedar, spice box, cassis and plums burst from the glass in this impressive, layered wine. A hint of mocha develops later, but it is pretty clear the 2009 is playing its cards close to the vest. There is enough inner tension to make me think the 2009 has a very bright future. Jayson Woodbridge describes 2009 as a year with a tiny crop and equally small berries. It is also the year Woodbridge brought in a helicopter to dry out the fruit after the mid-October typhoon dropped a huge amount of rain on Napa Valley.Antonio Galloni | 95+ AGPure and understated, with a charming mix of elegant ripe black cherry and plum, subtle fresh earth, tobacco and cedar, ending with fleshy, fine-grained tannins. Less opulent than prior vintages. Drink now through 2024. 600 cases made.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

The more closed but potentially greater 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Grand Vin State Lane Vineyard is a 480-case blend of 96% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Its dense ruby/purple color is followed by notes of licorice, creme de cassis, camphor and subtle toast. Full-bodied and concentrated, it represents 15% of the total Kapcsandy production. The wine finished with 13.7% alcohol, which in these days is relatively low, although the alcohol levels were down in 2009 through 2011 because of the cooler, less ripe years.Robert Parker | 95+ RPDeep ruby-red. If the Roberta’s smells like Pomerol, this one is Haut-Brion-like in its wild notes of leather and road tar. Wonderfully thick and sweet but a bit funky too, offering plush flavors of black raspberry, licorice, leather and game. Very densely packed wine with nicely integrated acidity and copious, fully ripe tannins. Really scrapes the palate clean on the rising finish. If there’s any brett here, it’s just another element of complexity, as it does not dominate or dry the wine’s fruit. (13.7% alcohol; 96% French oak--80% new--and 4% new Hungarian oak)Vinous Media | 93 VMA substantial effort that weaves together dense, earthy, clay-laced currant, dark berry, sage and cedar. Slow to unfold, but does so gracefully and gets better with each sip. Best from 2013 through 2028. 480 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

A riveting expression of complex Cabernet, this is rich, loamy and layered, with pure, detailed currant, blackberry and black licorice flavors and firm, gripping tannins. Gains and sustains on the finish. Cellar-worthy. Best from 2014 through 2028.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThe 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon bursts from the glass with huge dark fruit, scorched earth, menthol, licorice and smoke. The first impression is quite positive, but then the persistence on the mid-palate unexpectedly drops off quickly, as if there is a hole in the middle of the wine. In this vintage, the difference between the second label M. Etain and Scarecrow is much less evident than in 2010. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024.Scarecrow’s 2010s are gorgeous, and also quite a big step up from the 2009s. For more background on the estate, readers may want to revisit my introductory comments in Issue 198.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPThe 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon bursts from the glass with huge dark fruit, scorched earth, menthol, licorice and smoke. The first impression is quite positive, but then the persistence on the mid-palate unexpectedly drops off quickly, as if there is a hole in the middle of the wine. In this vintage, the difference between the second label M. Etain and Scarecrow is much less evident than in 2010.Antonio Galloni | 92 AG

Once again, the 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon pays homage to the 2007, but the aromas and flavors seems to be just a touch brighter, which might just be a function of the wine’s age. A wine of remarkable precision, the 2009 is totally dialed in from start to finish. Layers of intensely sweet, perfumed fruit are woven together with remarkable elegance and sheer polish. Today, the 2009 isn’t quite as radiant as it has been in the past, and seems headed for a stubborn phase. It is still striking, though. Even if a bit less exotic than the 2007, the two wines share a silkiness and overall sense of textural finesse. A translucent, weightless finish rounds things out in style. The 2009 is 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc and 5% Merlot. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2029.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPOnce again, the 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon pays homage to the 2007, but the aromas and flavors seems to be just a touch brighter, which might just be a function of the wine's age. A wine of remarkable precision, the 2009 is totally dialed in from start to finish. Layers of intensely sweet, perfumed fruit are woven together with remarkable elegance and sheer polish. Today, the 2009 isn't quite as radiant as it has been in the past, and seems headed for a stubborn phase. It is still striking, though. Even if a bit less exotic than the 2007, the two wines share a silkiness and overall sense of textural finesse. A translucent, weightless finish rounds things out in style. The 2009 is 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc and 5% Merlot.Vinous Media | 98 VMA stunningly seamless effort, rich and elegant, this delivers perfumed black currant aromas that are supple and graceful, building and gaining with subtle tannins, laced with loamy earth. A dash of black licorice marks the long finish. Drink now through 2028. 750 cases made.Wine Spectator | 97 WS

Made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, the silky 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Precious boasts amazing amounts of creme de cassis, licorice, spring flowers, charcoal and graphite. The quintessential Woodbridge wine, it is busting with sensuality, exuding enormous fruit, and built like a skyscraper. Abundant notes of cassis and the soft, velvety tannins are fabulous. This wine can be drunk now or in 20-30 years.Robert Parker | 99 RPGood deep ruby. Dark berries, spices, minerals and coffee on the nose, lifted by a sexy floral topnote. Impressively rich and lush but with its saturated berry and floral flavors currently dominated by a deep core of minerality. With aeration this wine showed more red fruit character and a more delineated, energetic mid-palate. Has the harmonious acidity and ripe tannins to ensure a graceful evolution in bottle.Vinous Media | 94+ VMProvides density and focus, with a complex mix of dark berry, spice, licorice, mocha and light toasty oak. The finish sails along gracefully amid ripe tannins that give you plenty to chew on. Drink now through 2024. 100 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

From the Howell Mountain Arc Vineyard (usually 1,300 to 1,400 cases produced in a normal year), the 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Arc Vineyard could be a candidate for perfection when it hits full maturity in 7-8 years. However, I wouldn’t hesitate to drink it now given the sweetness of the tannin and the abundance of the ripe, concentrated, delicious fruit. The nose exhibits classic aromas of mulberries, graphite, licorice, forest floor, black currants and blackberries. This is a broad, full throttle, multilevel, sensational wine.Proprietor Jayson Woodbridge, one of the wine world’s most compelling, outspoken, irreverent, bigger-than-life personalities, can get away with just about anything he wants to say or do simply because year after year he proves what great wine is all about from his 15-acre Kayli Morgan Vineyard east of St. Helena, his 15-acre parcel on Howell Mountain, and another vineyard on the upslope of the Eisele Vineyard (recently acquired by Chateau Latour in Pauillac), called Few and Far Between. Woodbridge was recently profiled in a wonderful graphic wine magazine called “Loam Baby,” and may have set a Guiness Book World record for the number of times the word “F***” was used in that interview. I first met Woodbridge, who hales from Canada, when he released his first vintage, 2000, which is still going strong and showing more staying power than I would ever have imagined even though I loved the wine from the beginning. It remains a sensational wine at age 13. He currently has six cuvees of Cabernet Sauvignon, the Kayli Morgan Vineyard, the Arc Vineyard on Howell Mountain, the Few and Far Between Vineyard in Calistoga near the Eisele Vineyard, a wine called Deep Time which spends considerably more time in barrel than its siblings, a wine called Precious, and depending on his mood, another wine called Fortunate Son. He also makes a hedonistic, attractive Pinot Noir from the Stanly Vineyard called Cherry Pie, and he has had enormous success with the high quality yet bargain-basement priced selections from around the world called Layer Cake. The Few and Far Between Vineyard is a 5-acre parcel on what Woodbridge calls the “upside of the Eisele Vineyard.” The only blend in his portfolio, this cuvee includes 15% Cabernet Franc. The first vintage was 2008, and this is another exceptional wine, with the 2010 achieving perfection and the 2012 capable of doing so. I only tasted two vintages of the Precious cuvee made from Woodbridge’s favorite barrels. Normally he limits production to 100 or so cases, which would be four barrels. I only tasted one vintage of the Cabernet Sauvignon Deep Time because it spends up to 40 months in barrel and almost becomes like a great chef’s reduction sauce because of evaporation. It is normally a selection from the Kayli Morgan Vineyard. It is a remarkable wine, but very little is available.Robert Parker | 98+ RP(15.5% alcohol): Good dark red. Pure sex appeal on the nose, with black raspberry, licorice, menthol and mineral aromas buoyed by a violet quality. Like liquid velvet on the palate; a great, sweet fruit bomb with a positively three-dimensional texture. Dark berry flavors are complicated by a saline element and lifted by sneaky underlying minerality. The finish is lightly saline and endless, with ripe tannins totally buffered by the wine's voluptuous texture. My sample gained in firmness with 48 hours in the recorked bottle without losing any of its verve, a very good sign for its likely aging curve.Vinous Media | 95+ VMPure, ripe and plush, with tiers of blackberry, raspberry, cherry, plum, mocha and spice. Shows some heat from ripeness, causing the finish to becomes a bit diffuse. Needs a little time. Drink now through 2024. 700 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

Espresso, mocha, cloves, violets and plums all meld together in the 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Backus Vineyard. Rich, sumptuous and layered, the 2010 boasts tons of depth and pure structure. Much more expressive than the 2010 Insignia is today, the Backus is relatively open at this stage. At the same time, though, the underlying structure suggests the 2010 will drink well for many years.Vinous Media | 96 VMThe 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Backus Vineyard (100% Cabernet Sauvignon) achieved nearly 15% natural alcohol, and is aged 24 months in 100% new French oak. It has Pessac-Leognan-like aromas of charcoal, scorched earth, creme de cassis, and a distinct loamy soil/earthy character as well as minerality. Full-bodied, powerful and masculine with mouthstaining levels of extract in addition to mouthwatering levels of tannin, this 2010 needs to be forgotten for at least a decade, and drunk over the following 30-40 years. It could be a 50-year wine.Robert Parker | 90+ RP

Amazing aromas of blackberries, blueberries, mushrooms and violets. Full body with a dense, precise palate and a firm, intense finish. Masculine but formed and polished. This needs at least four or five years to come even more together.James Suckling | 97 JS(picked on November 1): Red-ruby color, the darkest of these 2011s. Dark berries, coffee and licorice on the nose, with a sexy animal character adding interest. Less sweet than the Lotus but with noteworthy finesse of texture to the flavors of blue fruits, menthol and dark spices. Very pure and laid-back today, finishing with sneaky length. The tannins seem much more successfully integrated with the wine’s fruit than they appeared to be in barrel a year ago. Winemaker Cameron Vawter noted that the 2011s were racked only after the malolactic fermentations and again for the blending.Vinous Media | 93 VMThe 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon Hershey Vineyard, which comes from a site on Howell Mountain, is still youthful, with a dense plum color as well as a powerful, masculine nose of blackcurrants, chocolate, graphite, and scorched earth. It stays tight, compact, and structured on the palate, with lots of tannins, and it remains to be seen if there’s enough fruit to handle all the structure. At the end of the day, I think it does. Give bottles another 3-4 years and it should keep for another decade.Jeb Dunnuck | 92 JDThe fruit for the 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon Hershey Vineyard was picked on November 2, and it is certainly one of the stars of the vintage, reflecting the success Howell Mountain enjoyed in this vintage. It possesses excellent ripeness along with mulberry, blueberry and black raspberry fruit intermixed with hints of wet rock and graphite. Ripe, lush and medium to full-bodied with sweet tannin, this beauty, because of the precociousness and forward character of the 2011s, is best consumed over the next 10-12 years.Proprietor Hi Sang Lee has resurrected this once historic estate in Rutherford where the winery was first constructed in 1883 by H. W. Helms. There are four cuvees as of 2010, the Crystal Springs Vineyard on Howell Mountain, the Helms Vineyard in Rutherford, the Hershey Vineyard on Howell Mountain and the Lotus Vineyard in Napa Valley. They also produce a wine called Onda, which is meant to be a more forward styled, lower priced effort. Kudos to Hi Sang Lee and his son for resurrecting this historic estate.Robert Parker | 90-92 RPA rich, powerful expression of dense loamy earth, tobacco, black licorice, mineral and dark berry flavors. This never lets up, framed by persistent, gutsy tannins. Drink now through 2022. 304 cases made.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

(blended with 7% cabernet franc): Enticing nose melds redcurrant, cherry, anise, milk chocolate and a floral element. Suave, sweet and graceful, showing a lovely sugar/acid balance to the red fruit, mineral and sexy oak flavors. Boasts sneaky flavor intensity and subtle length, finishing with smoother tannins than the Helms. A very successful, refined 2011 cabernet.Vinous Media | 92 VMFairly massive, with deep, rich fruit and ample tannins. The core flavors are centered on currant, plum and blackberry. Cedary oak and crushed rock loaminess are evident on the chewy finish. Best from 2016 through 2025. 308 cases made.Wine Spectator | 90 WS