California Collector Wines

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The 2018 Gandona is superb. Inky dark fruit, gravel, spice, chocolate, menthol and licorice infuse the 2018 with striking layers of complexity, all with firm mountain tannins that give the wine shape, energy and drive. The 2018 is a real powerhouse. I can’t remember tasting a wine from this property with so much structure and tannin. Readers should plan on giving the 2018 plenty of air. I found the 2018 really only blossomed a number of hours after opening.Vinous Media | 97 VMBased on 100% Cabernet Sauvignon that spent 21 months in 60% new French oak, the 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Gandona is a sexy, powerful red offering lots of chocolatey dark fruits, notes of scorched earth, tobacco, and graphite, full-bodied richness, and a layered, impressively textured mouthfeel. There are only 400 cases produced, but it’s well worth seeking out.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDThe 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate is made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged for 21 months in French oak, 60% new. Deep garnet-purple colored, it gives up gregarious notes of crushed blackberries, ripe black cherries and blackcurrant cordial with hints of mocha, bay leaves and black licorice plus a waft of cedar. Big, concentrated, full-bodied and jam-packed with black fruit flavors, it has a solid backbone of firm, grainy tannins and just enough freshness, finishing long and layered. 400 cases were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RP

The 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate is sensual and polished. Bright acids lend energy as this super-finessed Cabernet opens in the glass. Crushed red berry fruit, cedar, rose petal and mint all open with a bit of coaxing. The 2018 is going to need a number of years to be at its very best. It is elegant, nuanced and simply impeccable, but also a bit reticent at this stage. Readers who are familiar with these wines know they need time to come into their own. If that is not possible, I suggest opening it well in advance, even a day or two.Antonio Galloni | 96+ AGMedium to deep garnet-purple colored, the 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate offers up intense notes of crushed black currants, fresh blackberries and ripe red plums with hints of pencil lead, black raspberries, underbrush and unsmoked cigars plus a touch of tapenade. Medium to full-bodied, the palate delivers bold, crunchy black and red berry layers with a lively backbone and firm, grainy tannins, finishing long and energetic. 1,470 cases were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPThis throwback starts with an expressive mix of savory, menthol and tobacco notes followed by very racy red currant, damson plum and bitter cherry fruit. Licorice root and warm earth accents fill in on the finish, with an iron note piercing through at the end. This is seriously grippy, with an old-school, rugged personality. Not for everyone, but loaded with character. Needs time in the cellar to fully round into form. Best from 2027 through 2040. 1,470 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

From a 20+-year-old section of Hudson selection Old Wente clone vines, the 2019 Chardonnay Hudson (a barrel sample) delivers a full-on exotic nose of tropical fruits, pineapple upside-down cake, beeswax and spiced pears with an undercurrent of cashews and brioche plus a touch of yuzu zest. Full-bodied, the palate is satisfyingly savory and multilayered, with tons of mineral sparks accenting the opulent fruit, and the long, decadent finish is beautifully offset by racy freshness.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97-99 RPAn inviting nose of jasmine, lemon leaf, chalk and beeswax. Full-bodied and light on its feet with delicate expressions of herbs and spices that carry over the palate in layers. Subtle vanilla bean and toasted thyme on the palate. Supremely elegant. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 99 JSThe 2019 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard is a total knock-out. Ripe pear, white flowers, mint and apple tart are all beautifully lifted. Rich in texture, yet light on its feet, the Hudson is unbelievably beautiful and vivid in the glass. In a word: stunning.Vinous Media | 96-98 VMThere’s unctuous minerality and savoriness to the baked apple and dried pear flavors that are lacy and well-spiced, with toasty and buttery accents on the broad-textured finish. Elegant and complex. Drink now through 2026. 579 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

The 2019 Tench Vineyard EE Red Wine checks in as a 60/40 split of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc from two different vineyards. The Cabernet Franc really stands out, and the wine has a complex, forest floor, herbal, bouquet garni-like character as well notes of woodsmoke, iron, and blue fruits. Full-bodied on the palate, it has some background chocolaty oak, a great mid-palate, and a heck of a finish.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThe 2019 Red Wine EE Tench Vineyard is compelling. The blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc works so well here. A whole range of floral and savory notes give the 2019 its striking presence. Raspberry jam, blood orange, kirsch and spice add inner perfume and polish. The 2019 EE is such an alluring wine.Antonio Galloni | 94-97 AGA 60-40 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, the 2019 Proprietary Red EE Tench Vineyard features leafy, minty nuances and hints of tobacco set against a backdrop of redcurrants. Full-bodied and ripe but remarkably elegant, it finishes supple and long, with a delectable silky texture. It’s undeniably sexy, but I have to admit I didn’t pick up on the "hot chick-just-done-with-Pilates pheromone quality" that Bevan described.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RP

The 2019 Red Wine Sugarloaf Mountain, a blend of 55% Merlot and 45% Cabernet Franc, is another standout in this range. Franc aromatics soar out of the glass, adding tremendous aromatic presence to the full-throttle fruit. The 2019 is one of the most polished wines I have ever tasted from Russell Bevan. Rose petal, mocha and dried herbs linger on the huge, persistent finish. (Drink between 2024-2034)Antonio Galloni | 97 AGThe 2019 Tench Vineyard EE Red Wine checks in as a 60/40 split of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc from two different vineyards. The Cabernet Franc really stands out, and the wine has a complex, forest floor, herbal, bouquet garni-like character as well notes of woodsmoke, iron, and blue fruits. Full-bodied on the palate, it has some background chocolaty oak, a great mid-palate, and a heck of a finish.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDA blend of 55% Merlot and 45% Cabernet Franc, Bevan’s 2019 Proprietary Red Sugarloaf Mountain is slightly tea-like and herbal, with those notes overlaid on black cherries and dark chocolate. Medium to full-bodied and silky in texture, it finishes long, with echoes of toasty oak. The vineyard, originally developed by William Hill, is located in the southern Napa hills overlooking San Pablo Bay.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RP

The 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon is a pretty rich, bombastic wine, especially for Mayacamas. A blast of dark fruit, incense, tobacco, licorice, spice and mocha hits the palate. I would give the 2019 at least a few years in bottle to settle down, as it is quite the powerhouse today. This is an unusually flamboyant wine with plenty of richness and a bit less in the way of subtlety. The opulence of the vintage comes through loud and clear.Vinous Media | 97 VMLoaded with character and energy, this version reveals heavy notes of zesty sweet bay leaf and sassafras that infuse a core of steeped red currant and mulberry fruit, all carried by bright acidity and iron-laced tannins. The long finish pulls everything together, with the fruit, savory and mineral elements in harmony. Showing an old-school touch, this has a long life ahead. Best from 2025 through 2045. 4,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WSThe 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon remains true to the winery’s historic style, offering complex notes of dried herbs and mixed berries, carried across the palate by a wine that’s medium-bodied, crisp and somewhat lean by modern Napa standards. It finishes long and dusty, promising well for the future.Robert Parker Wine Advocte | 94 RP

From a higher elevation site on this great Mountain terroir in the northeastern part of the valley, the 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain is classic Howell Mountain with a closed, reductive, tight, and unyielding style that blossoms with time in the glass. Black and blue fruits, scorched earth, chalky minerality, violets, and brambly herbs define the bouquet, and it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a deep, layered mouthfeel, and serious amounts of tannin that will require 4-5 years to chill out. Nevertheless, it’s another beautiful, balanced, incredibly impressive wine from this lineup that readers will love. Hide bottles for at least 4-5 years and enjoy over the following two decades.Jeb Dunnuck | 96+ JD

Pas de Cheval is a collaboration between Maayan Koschitzky (of Atelier Melka) and Master of Wine Vanessa Conlin. They focus on appellation Cabernets and have some top-notch sourcing. Starting with the 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville, it offers a gorgeous nose of pure cassis, blueberries, wildflowers, incense, and spicy oak. Pure Napa Valley Cabernet magic on the palate, it’s full-bodied, has a layered, multi-dimensional texture, ripe, building and substantial tannins, and one heck of a great finish. It certainly delivers the goods today yet will integrate its oak and tannins with 2-4 years of bottle age and drink spectacularly well over the following 15-20 years or so.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JD

The 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon continues to show brilliantly. (I rated it 97-100 from barrel last year.) It has a quintessential Cabernet nose of pure crème de cassis, crushed stone, lead pencil, graphite, and tobacco that gains depth and richness with time in the glass. Deep, full-bodied, rich, and incredibly textured, yet still fresh, light on its feet, and beautifully balanced, this gorgeous Cabernet shows what’s possible with the variety from Paso Robles.Jeb Dunnuck | 97-99 JDThe 2019 Patrimony Cabernet Sauvignon was made with free-run juice and matured for 30 months in 100% new French oak. It has a deep ruby color and alluring tones of truffle, brown sugar and coffee to begin, opening with time to very pure cassis, boysenberry, tobacco, garrigue and aniseed. The palate is supple and fresh with surprisingly restrained, mineral-laced fruits and a fan of spicy accents across the long finish. This ultra sleek, elegant Cabernet evolves continually in the glass and has the harmonious structure it needs to go the distance in the cellar.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPA benchmark California Cabernet Sauvignon which showcases the strength and tenacity of this revered grape. On the nose, a juxtaposition of expressive, bright fruit plus a grounded earthiness. The delicacy yet force of this wine creates a most pleasant tension that you seek to reconcile with each sip. Flavours of blackberry, bramble and dark chocolate sit side by side with floral and sweet cedar notes. Tannins display laser-sharp integration. A wine with thoughtful, intentional power.Decanter | 98 DECThe 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Patrimony lifts from the glass with a classic bouquet of black currant, lifting hints of rosemary, graphite and dusty sage. It’s silky, nearly creamy in feel, with depths of ripe dark red fruit and sweet spice that swirl throughout. A web of fine-grained tannins engulfs the palate. While powerful and structured, the impact is well-measured, leaving the senses clenched in youthful poise as pretty inner florals slowly fade. What a beauty, and with such an amazingly bright future.Vinous Media | 97 VMOpaque in color, the wine opens with intense yet elegant aromas of cassis, toasted espresso and roasted walnut paste. Polished tannins frame the rich sip, loaded with scorched earth, dark cassis and purple-flower flavors, proving very dry yet luxurious, with a lingering finish.Wine Enthusiast | 97 WEDeep, rich and plush on the nose showing cassis, blackberries with hints of dark olives, fennel, dark chocolate, cigar box and elderberry characters. Full-bodied and fleshy on the palate with an abundance of tannins, which are extremely fine-grained. Restrainedly opulent, deep, structured and long. Still a hint of white sesame character from the barrels, but will integrate in a year or two. Drinkable but better after 2025.James Suckling | 95 JS

The 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon continues to show brilliantly. (I rated it 97-100 from barrel last year.) It has a quintessential Cabernet nose of pure crème de cassis, crushed stone, lead pencil, graphite, and tobacco that gains depth and richness with time in the glass. Deep, full-bodied, rich, and incredibly textured, yet still fresh, light on its feet, and beautifully balanced, this gorgeous Cabernet shows what’s possible with the variety from Paso Robles.Jeb Dunnuck | 97-99 JDThe 2019 Patrimony Cabernet Sauvignon was made with free-run juice and matured for 30 months in 100% new French oak. It has a deep ruby color and alluring tones of truffle, brown sugar and coffee to begin, opening with time to very pure cassis, boysenberry, tobacco, garrigue and aniseed. The palate is supple and fresh with surprisingly restrained, mineral-laced fruits and a fan of spicy accents across the long finish. This ultra sleek, elegant Cabernet evolves continually in the glass and has the harmonious structure it needs to go the distance in the cellar.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPOpaque in color, the wine opens with intense yet elegant aromas of cassis, toasted espresso and roasted walnut paste. Polished tannins frame the rich sip, loaded with scorched earth, dark cassis and purple-flower flavors, proving very dry yet luxurious, with a lingering finish.Wine Enthusiast | 97 WEDeep, rich and plush on the nose showing cassis, blackberries with hints of dark olives, fennel, dark chocolate, cigar box and elderberry characters. Full-bodied and fleshy on the palate with an abundance of tannins, which are extremely fine-grained. Restrainedly opulent, deep, structured and long. Still a hint of white sesame character from the barrels, but will integrate in a year or two. Drinkable but better after 2025.James Suckling | 95 JSInky garnet. Expansive, smoke-tinged dark fruit preserves, oak spices and vanilla on the nose. In a plush, broad style, offering sweet black currant, cherry liqueur, mocha and vanilla flavors and a spicy touch of cracked pepper. Smooth, well-knit tannins add shape to a long, smoky finish that leaves cherry pie and candied licorice notes behind. All new French oak.Vinous Media | 94 VM

The 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Her Majesty’s Secret Service Stagecoach Vineyard boasts lovely harmony between the red and black fruit (cherries and cassis), the oak (cedar and vanilla) and the delicate herbal nuances (sage and bay leaf). Full-bodied, rich and concentrated, with a long, velvety finish, this is a real beauty that should improve for at least a decade. Have I underestimated it?Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPThe 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Her Majesty’s Secret Service is a deep, ample wine. Crème de cassis, licorice, lavender, spice and menthol build beautifully in the glass. This pliant, lush Cabernet is all charm. Her Majesty’s Secret Service emerges from block 5M at Stagecoach, a block Aaron Pott planted himself. What impresses most is the way Pott has tamed the tannins that can be so fierce at this site. His 2019 is a drop-dead gorgeous beauty.Antonio Galloni | 95 AGMore cassis and a kiss of blue fruits emerge from the 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Her Majesty’s Secret Service, a medium to full-bodied, juicy, ultra-classic Napa Valley Cabernet with great tannins, a juicy, elegant mouthfeel, good depth of fruit, and a great finish. Despite its charm and approachability, it has rock solid acidity, tannins, and structure and is going to evolve gracefully for upwards of two decades.Jeb Dunnuck | 95+ JD

Aged in 50% new and 50% second-use American Oak from the Duncan family’s The Oak cooperage in Higbee, Missouri. Matt Duncan joined me for my tasting, and he says the Petit Verdot in the blend, of which there is 0.4%, is co-fermented with the Cabernet Sauvignon, intended to bring focus to the Cabernet fruit. A compelling, brooding, muscular rendition of Cabernet from Alexander Valley with gorgeous boysenberry notes, black currants, and rose petals laced with vanillin notes and toasty oak. Medium to full-bodied with black currants, ripe blackberry and black cherry notes framed by velvety tannins laced with that irresistible vanillin note. Toasty oak spices lend a hint of sweetness, balanced by grippy acidity. Long and complex, revealing umami, garrigue, and crushed slatestone on the finish. It’s a terrific wine from the Alexander Valley.Decanter | 95 DEC

The 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Black Label is built around a core of fruit from Leopoldina, with about 30% of the fruit from Fortuna. Black cherry, plum, chocolate, new leather and spice build in a potent, explosive Cabernet that hits all the right notes. In 2019, the Black Label is a real head turner. The flamboyant style offers tons of immediacy that will make the 2019 pretty hard to resist right out of the gate.Antonio Galloni | 96 AGA barrel-selection of the vintage, this wine stuns in its dynamic of power and elegance, revealing layers of dried herb, sage and violet around a core of seamless tannin. Dark chocolate, graphite and cassis are met by an undercurrent of darker berry and oak spice, with a refined, structured finish. This will do well in the cellar; enjoy best 2029–2039.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEDeep garnet-purple colored, the 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Black Label needs swirling to reveal notes of blackcurrant jelly, blackberry preserves and boysenberries, plus hints of cedar, lilacs, unsmoked cigars and crushed rocks.The medium to full-bodied palate is delicately styled and refreshing, featuring elegant layers and a long and mineral-laced finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95+ RPDelivers a serious core of warmed cassis, macerated plum and black cherry puree flavors that move in lockstep, carried by a graphite spine and flanked with judicious apple wood and alder. Very solidly built. Best from 2023 through 2035. 1,529 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WSHarvested at a minuscule yields from a vineyard planted in 1975, then aged 17 months in one-third new French oak. With a bit of aeration the youthful, concentrated aromas open to reveal opulent plum, spice, orange zest and pine forest accents. The palate offers juicy black cherry and more plum, mulled wine spices and powdery tannins, with crushed stone minerality and elegant cedar oak tinged with dark chocolate. There’s a distinct salinity to this wine which refreshes through the long finish. Drinking Window 2021 - 2035 Decanter | 95 DECAromas of ripe blackberries, cooked dark cherries, earth, chocolate and sweet spices. Full body with plush tannins. Rich and creamy with lots of black fruit on the mid-palate and a compact finish. Try after 2023.James Suckling | 92 JS

The 2020 Chardonnay Powder House is ethereal and gracious in feel. Effusive aromatics give the Powder House its lifted personality. White pepper, chalk, mint and lemon oil add quite a bit of brightness. The balance here is driven by energy and vibrancy more than by volume.Antonio Galloni | 90-92 AG

A cool, late-harvest site relative to Aubert’s other sources, the 2020 Chardonnay Larry Hyde & Sons also sees a bit less new French oak (50%). Readers will note that the oak made virtually no impression on me, as the wine bursts with aromas of ripe, honeyed melon, balanced by bright lime notes. Full-bodied, creamy and lush on the palate, this is just a pleasure to drink, finishing long and zesty.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThis stunning version opens with a rich impression, with candied ginger, marmalade and honeyed overtones to the core of fresh fruit flavors, including notes of pear, apple, melon and citrus. Hints of orange blossoms and minerality mingle with fresh acidity, while a nutmeg-dominant wave of spices gain momentum on the long finish. Drink now through 2033. 1,538 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WSA big and juicy white with cooked apple, pear, honey, and mineral. Flint. Full and layered with a flavorful and delicious finish. Drink now.James Suckling | 96 JS

Pouring an opaque red, the 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon Au Paradis is lush and refined with aromas of cassis, espresso, violets, and sweet tobacco. Full-bodied, this refined profile continues on the palate, with a ripe, velvety texture, fine tannins, and notes of black cherry liqueur and mocha, as well as floral oils that last long on the palate without feeling heavy. Drink 2025-2045.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDBlended with 3% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc, the 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon Au Paradis comes from a vineyard in Oakville near Dalla Valle, around 500-600 feet in elevation. It has a deep ruby-purple color and opens slowly to warm black plums, graphite and grilled peppers with wafts of cedar, chocolate and soy. The full-bodied palate offers plenty of freshness to support its concentrated, ripe fruit. It boasts generous, powdery tannins, alluring floral tones and a long, layered finish. Ripe yet balanced, it’s approachable right now. 1,401 cases were made, and it will be released in July of 2023.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThis is a very refined and polished red, with redcurrant and spice, as well as black-pepper and flint undertones. It’s medium-bodied with refined tannins and a fresh, silky finish. All about finesse and polish. Drinkable now, but better after 2024.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon Au Paradis is a powerful wine, its mid-weight structure notwithstanding. There’s good depth to the ripe dark plum, blackberry and chocolate flavors. The aromatics aren’t quite as focused as they usually are, but all things considered, this is a very good wine in a highly challenging year. About 40% of the wines were discarded, including much of the Franc, which is quite low in this vintage.Vinous Media | 92 VMForward, with a wave of crushed blueberry, açaí and blackberry fruit flavors that dominate the character, while touches of loam, licorice root and tobacco fill in on the broad, slightly grainy finish. Best from 2024 through 2034. 1,401 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

Floral, non-fruity hints of crushed stone and talcum powder appear on the nose of Aubert’s 2021 Chardonnay Powder House, creating an attractive counterpoint to the wine’s honeyed richness and intense white-peach notes. Full-bodied and silky in feel, it’s a bit custardy in texture yet lithe, graceful and long, with an almost mentholated finish. There are 2,000 cases this vintage, from a Forestville vineyard planted in 2015 mainly to Hyde Old Wente, plus a bit of Mount Eden.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95-97 RPLove the aromas of lemon-lime, gunpowder, kiwi, and dried lemons. It’s full, phenolic and solid. This is like red wine in structure. Long and persistent. One for the cellar. Give this some time. Best after 2025.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2021 Chardonnay Powder House is elegant, polished and also a touch reticent. That won’t be an issue in time, but the Powder House is decidedly reticent today. Strong mineral accents are front and center, while the fruit feels pushed into the background. Mark Aubert’s Chardonnays have historically aged quite well. I expect that will be the case here as well.Vinous Media | 94-96 VM

The 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Incubo is another fabulous wine from Aaron Pott’s Mount Veeder estate. Inky dark fruit, grilled herbs, leather, incense, licorice and dried flowers power through in this dense, explosive Cabernet Sauvignon.Vinous Media | 97 VMThe 2021 Incubo Cabernet Sauvignon, with 1% Cabernet Franc in the blend, is deep garnet-purple in color. Scents of blackcurrant jelly, kirsch, wild blueberries, and aniseed leap from the glass with underlying hints of cedar, graphite, and black olives. Full, firm, fine-grained, and bright, the palate shimmers with energy, delivering a long minerally finish.The Wine Independent | 97 TWISo focused, vibrant, layered and lively, with aromas of red fruit, subtle oak spices, currants and mint. Fine-grained tannins embrace the classic black cherry and cassis flavors. A brilliant wine that only needs time to mature and develop more complexity. Best from 2029.James Suckling | 96 JSThe 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Incubo is brilliant juice, offering a deep purple hue as well as a killer bouquet of crème de cassis, tobacco leaf, spring flowers, and damp earth/underbrush-like nuances. I love its complexity and this beauty hits the palate with medium to full-bodied richness, a layered, elegant mouthfeel, fine tannins, and a great finish. Blended with just a splash of Cabernet Franc, drink this classy, impeccably made Mt. Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon over the coming two decades.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JD