California Cults

wines

As I reported last year, the 1993 Cabernet Sauvignon Eisele Vineyard is a spectacular wine from a vintage that has consistently received unfavorable press (particularly from the Wine Spectator). It seems to me that if the 1993 vintage were taken out of the context of the historical succession of outstanding years in the nineties, and put in the eighties, qualitatively, 1993 would tower over the likes of 1987, 1985, or 1984. The Eisele Vineyard 1993 Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the half dozen or so candidates for wine of the vintage. I have tasted it three times out of bottle, once rating it as high as 98, but never less than 96. It is a mind-boggling Cabernet Sauvignon that is remarkably well-balanced for its size and intensity. The color is an opaque purple, and the nose offers up smoky, chocolatey, blackcurrant, licorice, and mineral scents. On the palate, the wine reveals fabulous density, concentration, sweetness of fruit as well as tannin, and a 30-40 second finish. Although there is a high percentage of new oak, this wine has completely soaked it up, a testament to its extract and concentration of fruit. While the wine displays a certain precociousness, unusual for a 1993, there is plenty of tannin lurking in the finish, but it is well-concealed by the wine's exceptional richness. This beauty is destined to age effortlessly for 20-25 years.The Eisele Vineyard has always produced concentrated Cabernet Sauvignons with blackcurrant/cassis personalities intermixed with a mineral component. What the Araujos have been able to achieve is to intensify the fruit character, as well as the wine's purity and definition. That, plus high quality French oak barrels and a natural approach to winemaking has resulted in a succession of extraordinary Cabernets that began in 1991, and shows no signs of abating.Robert Parker | 96 RPRemarkably youthful and vibrant, with spicy currant, plum, black cherry and anise flavors that pick up touches of earth, mocha and cigar box. Enormous complexity, depth and range of flavors. Has hit an ideal drinking plateau now, but could well last another decade. Decant.--1993 California Cabernet retrospective. Drink now through 2012. 1,285 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

The Maya Proprietary red wine is usually a blend of 45% Cabernet Franc and 55% Cabernet Sauvignon. The 1993 Maya is awesome. The opaque purple color accompanies a bouquet of stony, jammy cassis, roasted herbs, and smoky, meaty scents that are just beginning to unfold and soar from the glass. The wine possesses unbelievable concentration, powerful tannin, and a finish that lasts for 45+ seconds. It is an extraordinarily well-endowed and well-balanced wine that requires 5-7 years of cellaring. It will age effortlessly through the first 25 years of the next century. The 1993s and 1994s are in bottle, and the 1993s, which were released several months ago, are disappearing before any bottles hit the retail shelf. Readers who could neither afford nor find the Cabernet Sauvignon or Maya Proprietary Red, will have to wait another ten months for the release of the 1994s. Production at Dalla Valle has dropped, largely because of the phylloxera damage to the vineyard, and the consequent replanting. For example, the production in 1993 was 40% less than that in 1992. The quantities of wine in 1994 will be equally small. Not until the late nineties is production expected to return to its former level.Robert Parker | 98 RPStill dark, with high-toned, rich, supple blackberry, currant and black cherry fruit, picking up pretty anise, leather and mineral flavors on the long, intense finish. Has the fruit concentration and tannic structure for further aging.--1993 California Cabernet retrospective. Drink now through 2010. 500 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WSToday the 1993 Maya comes across as a bit rough around the edges. The fruit struggles to emerge in a Maya that is compact and not fully expressive. Forward aromas and flavors suggest the 1993 is best enjoyed sooner rather than later. I imagine the 1993 would show better in most other settings, but here, surrounded by a bevy of epic vintages, its strengths and weaknesses are evident.Vinous Media | 92 VM