California White Wines

wines

The 2020 Chardonnay Patterson Vineyard opens with tempered matchstick-like reduction that gives way to nuanced aromas of baked apples, quince, lemon and lime blossom and toast. The medium-bodied palate strikes a fine balance between satiny, concentrated fruit and focused acidity, and the finish is long, layered and detailed.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPA strong mineral streak of rainy sidewalk and chalk kick off the focused nose of this bottling, which opens ever so slightly toward lime pith, jicama and nectarine. The chiseled stone texture and flavor of the palate is pleasantly relentless, wrapping around the light lime and green-lemon flavors.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEThe 2020 Chardonnay Patterson is quite powerful. It shows a distinctly mineral and savory profile that is intriguing, but also bit out of character for the Sta. Rita Hills. Sage, mint, dried flowers and lightly honeyed notes are pushed forward, while fruit is very much in the background. It’s a compelling wine in this stellar lineup from Sandhi.Antonio Galloni | 94 AGJuicy acidity and a note of salted caramel mingle with mango, green apple and tangerine flavors at the core of this succulent white, which is vibrant on the finish. Drink now through 2027. 229 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

Looking at the flagship estate Viognier, the 2021 Viognier Estate boasts a vibrant, medium to full-bodied, incredibly focused and mineral-driven profile that reminds me of a Condrieu from pure granite soils. Tangerine oil, honeyed flowers, brioche, and citrus notes all emerge on the nose, and it hits the palate with medium to full-bodied richness, a layered, seamless mouthfeel, and one heck of a great finish. I finished my note with "Love it." As I’ve written in the past, no one in the New World does Viognier better than John Alban.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThe 2021 Viognier Estate is tremendously expressive and vibrant! It’s layered and complex on the nose, segueing from savory matchstick to exotic, musky perfume, candied peaches and tangerine oil. The palate offers flesh and unctuousness without fattiness, full flavors that are tempered by a powerful textural bite and flinty streaks and energetic acidity that combine to create an alluring, shimmery finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RP

From a somewhat warmer site on thin, volcanic soils overlooking the Russian River, Eastside—originally a collaboration between Ulises Valdez and Mark Aubert—features a Montrachet selection planted on riparia rootstock. Despite plenty of new French oak in the élevage, there’s only a faintly fumé, crushed-stone character on the nose, which nicely sets off the wine’s white peach and lime notes. Full-bodied and generous but sturdily built, with an imposing structure, the 2021 Chardonnay Eastside is powerful and long on the finish. The crop was virtually wiped out by a spring frost in 2020, but the vines rebounded in 2021, yielding 1,400 cases.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95-97 RPThe 2021 Chardonnay Eastside Vineyard marries textural richness and vibrancy in grand style. There’s terrific energy here, the result of poor, stressed soils that naturally limit yields. Bright acids and veins of minerality drive this focused Chardonnay. Citrus, orchard fruit, ginger and light tropical accents build into the intensely saline finish. Superb.Vinous Media | 95-97 VMThis shows a seductive oily texture with pineapple, lime, lemon, cooked apple, and a little brioche. Some green mango. Lots of minerality. Full-bodied. Layered with amazing acidity. A very contrasting wine with richness and liveliness. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 97 JS

Floral, non-fruity hints of crushed stone and talcum powder appear on the nose of Aubert’s 2021 Chardonnay Powder House, creating an attractive counterpoint to the wine’s honeyed richness and intense white-peach notes. Full-bodied and silky in feel, it’s a bit custardy in texture yet lithe, graceful and long, with an almost mentholated finish. There are 2,000 cases this vintage, from a Forestville vineyard planted in 2015 mainly to Hyde Old Wente, plus a bit of Mount Eden.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95-97 RPLove the aromas of lemon-lime, gunpowder, kiwi, and dried lemons. It’s full, phenolic and solid. This is like red wine in structure. Long and persistent. One for the cellar. Give this some time. Best after 2025.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2021 Chardonnay Powder House is elegant, polished and also a touch reticent. That won’t be an issue in time, but the Powder House is decidedly reticent today. Strong mineral accents are front and center, while the fruit feels pushed into the background. Mark Aubert’s Chardonnays have historically aged quite well. I expect that will be the case here as well.Vinous Media | 94-96 VM

So much gunpowder to the lemon rind and cooked apple aromas. Goes flinty. Lemon curd. Some sliced pineapple. Full-bodied with a compacted palate and a glossy texture to it. Very, very creamy. Honey. Candied lemon. Oily, but then goes fresh and zesty. Drinkable now, but will age beautifully.James Suckling | 98 JSThe 2021 Chardonnay Sugar Shack is a classic Mark Aubert wine. Creamy and ample in feel, the 2021 is super-expressive right out of the gate. Soft, silky contours frame lemon confit, white flowers, tangerine oil and lightly honeyed overtones that appear with aeration. All the elements are so well balanced. The Sugar Shack is one of the more immediate wines in this range and will drink well pretty much upon release.Vinous Media | 94-96 VMThe warmest site in Aubert’s portfolio, the 2021 Chardonnay Sugar Shack comes from Mark and Teresa’s home property on the western side of the Rutherford AVA. Planted in 2008 to a Montrachet selection and managed by David Abreu, it offers up attractive aromas of toasted hazelnuts and ripe peaches. Big, broad and fleshy in the mouth, it turns a bit angular on the finish, providing a bright, fresh counterpoint to the earlier opulence. 700 cases produced.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RP

Pie crust with brioche, lemon meringue, lime leaf, and blackboard chalk. Very aromatic. Full-bodied, with terrific structure and incredibly complex on the finish with seaweed and umami. Sea breeze, iodine and oyster finish. Superb wine. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 99 JSThe 2021 Chardonnay UV-SL comes from largely Goldridge soils in parcels owned and managed by the Valdez family (UV being the initials of Ulises Valdez, Aubert’s frequent vineyard collaborator, who died in 2018). There are 2,000 cases of this elixir, which offers up classic notes of toasted hazelnuts, white peaches and citrus zest. It’s full-bodied, rich and opulent yet contained and controlled, with great silky length and energy. Aubert describes the oak thusly: "The oak is perfect. It just kisses you with a bit of vanilla and cookie dough." The wine is certainly delicious, and thinking back on it, I wonder if my rating is a bit conservative.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96-98 RPThe 2021 Chardonnay UV-SL Vineyard is one of the more exotic wines in the range. Initially a bit ethereal, the 2021 opens beautifully on the mid-palate and finish, where it shows tremendous breadth and notable mineral intensity. The UV-SL is not quite as obvious as some of the other wines in this range, but its pedigree is evident. There’s real density here, and tons of class.Vinous Media | 95-97 VM

This has a more reductive and flinty personality with sliced pears, apples, lemons and light cream. White flowers, too. Full-bodied and very agile on the palate, staying calm until the end when it kicks in and runs long. Toasty finish with acid and phenolic structure. Old Wente clone. Goes on for minutes. A wine for aging, but so good already. Drinkable, but better in two or three years.James Suckling | 98 JSThe 2021 Chardonnay Private Reserve comes all from Oakville and is a different beast, with a richer yet still vibrant style that just begs to be drunk. Orchard fruits, chalky minerality, toasted hazelnuts, and a beautiful sense of reduction all define the aromatics, and it’s medium to full-bodied, has perfect balance, integrated oak, and a great finish. It’s the real deal. Drink bottles over the coming 7-8 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDFrom the Gamble Ranch in Oakville and barrel fermented at relatively warm temperatures to build mouthfeel, the 2021 Chardonnay Private Reserve boasts a smoky, mocha-tinged note on the nose, plus hints of crème brûlée and pineapple custard. It’s medium to full-bodied, velvety and ripe, a bit open-knit texturally on the finish, but it’s authoritatively flavored and true to form. About 80% new French oak is used, but a healthy 20% of the barrels are larger puncheons (500 liters), so while oaky, it’s not unbalanced.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPThe 2021 Chardonnay Private Reserve is lovely. Orchard fruit, lemon confit, hazelnut and a kiss of sweet French oak take shape. This understated, creamy Chardonnay is super-expressive in 2021.Vinous Media | 92 VMThis has a spicy, smoky litsea oil note and honeycomb overtone to the plump grilled peach, ripe melon and dried apricot flavors, which add an appealing fleshy accent, while a hint of buttery pie crust lingers. Drink now through 2030. 4,135 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

Cut grass, dark green herbs and yellow apple aromas show on the nose of this bottling. It’s very lean on the palate with a zippy, energetic acidity that cuts right through the cement, crushed stone and serrano flavors, engaging the palate on all sides.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WEThe 2021 Sauvignon Blanc Au Naturel is laced with hints of pear, mint, chamomile, spice and apricot. Racy and textured in feel, the Au Naturel has plenty of richness to play off the natural vivacity of the year.Antonio Galloni | 92 AGAll varietal, the 2021 Sauvignon Blanc Au Naturel offers a touch more oomph in its white peach, melon, white flowers, and honeysuckle-like aromas and flavors. It’s rich, medium-bodied, balanced, and certainly an outstanding expression of Sauvignon Blanc.Jeb Dunnuck | 91 JD

There’s terrific focus and intensity to the bright citrus flavors at the core of this white, with yuzu, ruby grapefruit, Meyer lemon and lime zest notes, plus plenty of salty, minerally accents that add a mouthwatering minerality, followed by hints of lemon basil that linger on the finish. Drink now. 5,600 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

The 2021 Chardonnay Sta. Rita Hills is the first vintage of Chardonnay from Donnachadh. It was barrel fermented and matured for around 10 months. Its aromas combine bright herbal, green apple and pear tones with underlying savory hints. The light-bodied palate is bright and fresh, yet offers a touch of anchoring creaminess that draws out the finish. Proprietor Drew Duncan says that for this vintage, fruit came from the Donnachadh estate, although that may not be the case in the future as this new project really gets up and running.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThis brand’s new appellation bottling satisfies in both Old and New World ways. Clean, chalky aromas of bright Meyer lemon flesh and pith meet with a briny note on the mineral-laden nose. The palate is wrapped in chiseled-stone tannins, loaded with acidity and yet generous on flavors of white melon, lychee, nectarine and honeysuckle.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WE

This is very unique in character, with sliced apple, honeysuckle and lavender. Spearmint, too. It’s medium-bodied with some pine and cooked-apple character in the palate. Flavorful, yet sophisticated and thoughtful. Minerally, compact and focused. 31-year-old vines. Drink now.James Suckling | 96 JSPacks precise flavors of ripe peach, apricot and salted preserved lemon, with lime accents and a savory thread of minerality. Offers a vibrant mouthful of acidity that keeps the flavors in focus, while a hint of dried lemon verbena peeks in on the finish. Drink now through 2029. 1,400 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

The 2021 Chardonnay One Sixteen, matured for 14 months in 34% new French oak, takes some time to shake off its youthful crème brûlée and allspice tones to reveal apricot, beeswax and honeysuckle aromas. The medium-bodied palate offers powerful fruit and oak spice and satisfying freshness to lift the finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RP

The 2021 Chenin Blanc Saini Farms, from a site in Dry Creek Valley, is deep, flavorful and full of character. Dried pear, spice, white flowers and sage all run through this beautifully textured Chenin. Orchard fruit and floral accents brighten the finish nicely.Antonio Galloni | 92 AG

A very serious chardonnay with phenolics and density that gives layers to the wine, as well as depth. It’s full yet tight and framed with focus. So long and beautiful. White peaches and white flowers, like honeysuckle. The real deal here. A nod to the great white burgs of the 1980s. Get some. 200 cases made. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 98 JS

From one of the iconic sites in Carneros, the 2021 Chardonnay Goldberg Variations No. 4 Hyde Vineyard will give a great vintage from Aubert a run for its money. Ripe pineapple, honeyed lemon, candle wax, green almond, and toasted bread all define the aromatics, and it’s full-bodied, with a pure, seamless mouthfeel, tons of richness, and a great finish. It’s one of the finest Chardonnays in this report. Drink bottles over the coming 7-8 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 99 JD

Coming from a cellar selection and a tiny production release, the 2021 Chardonnay Kokoro has exotic aromatics of tangerine, citrus oil, tropical flowers, and spice that give way to more racy citrus and minerality with time in the glass. Medium to full-bodied, concentrated, and flawlessly balanced, it’s another heavenly Chardonnay from Lato that readers will love. Give bottles a year and enjoy through 2031.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDThe 2021 Chardonnay Kokoro is especially fine in this vintage. It marries the energy of the year with some of the textural richness readers have come to expect from Paul Lato. Orchard fruit, marzipan, mint, tangerine and white flowers build effortlessly. The Kokoro, Lato’s top Chardonnay, is superb in 2021.Vinous Media | 95 VM

I tasted the 2021 Chardonnay Ma Belle Fille as a finished tank sample the day before it was bottled. Matured for 12 months in about 40% new French oak, it is youthfully gregarious at this stage, boasting scents of white peach, nutmeg, panna cotta and hints of lime candy and floral perfume. The medium-bodied palate is silky and seamless, with its focused acidity energizing the concentrated, spicy fruit, and it finishes with tremendous length, flavor and juiciness that begs you to take another sip. 1,661 cases were made. This will be released in July of 2023.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96-98 RPPouring a youthful yellow hue with silver highlights, the 2021 Chardonnay Ma Belle-Fille is ripe with fresh apricot, orange blossoms, and delicate baking spices. Full-bodied, with a fresh, clean texture, a rounded feel, and no harsh edges, the palate reveals fresh notes of cantaloupe, pithy citrus, vanilla, and flowers. Drink 2023-2033.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDThe 2021 Chardonnay Ma Belle Fille is airy, gracious and classy. It is also one of the more understated wines in this range. Hints of apricot, chamomile, spice, mint and orange zest are beautifully lifted. The Belle Fille is very much on the delicate side for Peter Michael, largely a reflection of elevation, the highest on the property.Vinous Media | 95 VMStrikes remarkable balance between bright, fresh acidity and rich notes of lemon curd, mango puree, poached pear, dried pineapple and honeycomb on a sleek frame. Reveals hints of dried lemon grass and pineapple sage on the fresh, aromatic finish. Drink now through 2032. 1,661 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

This powerful version offers mouthwatering lemon curd, lime blossom and mandarin orange flavors that show notes of fresh-grated ginger and lemon verbena. Sea salt minerality gains momentum on the finish, where grace notes of toasted green tea, citrus zest and white pepper linger. Drink now through 2030. 7,176 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS