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California Wines

California Wines

California Wines

California Wines

With a history of wine production that dates back to the 18th century, California currently sits as one of the world’s most prolific and reputable wine regions. With an area as vast as California, you can expect a colorful collage of terroir profiles, a series of microclimates, and micro-environments that give the wine a unique, memorable appeal. The region’s produce is far from homogenized in that sense, and it would take you countless hours to sample all of it.

While the region boasts scars from the Prohibition era, it went through what can only be described as a viticultural Renaissance sometime after the 1960s. At that point, California went from a port-style, sweet wine region to a versatile and compelling competitor on the world market. Today, no matter which way your taste in wine leans, you can find a new favorite producer among California’s most talented.

Notable sub-regions include legendary names like Napa Valley and Sonoma County, places that any wine lover worth their salt would die to visit. California’s quintessential warm climate allows for incredibly ripe fruit expressions, a style that provides a stark contrast to Old World-inspired, earthy classics. Even where inspiration was clearly taken from staple French appellations, Californian winemakers put their own unique spin on the wine, making it feel like a unique, standalone piece, rather than a derivative.

A New World region rises to join its viticultural forebears. Its meteoric rise to fame has been nothing short of stunning, and today California can compete with the world’s most prominent wine regions.

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2010 Joseph Phelps Backus Vineyard Napa, California Red

Espresso, mocha, cloves, violets and plums all meld together in the 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Backus Vineyard. Rich, sumptuous and layered, the 2010 boasts tons of depth and pure structure. Much more expressive than the 2010 Insignia is today, the Backus is relatively open at this stage. At the same time, though, the underlying structure suggests the 2010 will drink well for many years.Vinous Media | 96 VMThe 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Backus Vineyard (100% Cabernet Sauvignon) achieved nearly 15% natural alcohol, and is aged 24 months in 100% new French oak. It has Pessac-Leognan-like aromas of charcoal, scorched earth, creme de cassis, and a distinct loamy soil/earthy character as well as minerality. Full-bodied, powerful and masculine with mouthstaining levels of extract in addition to mouthwatering levels of tannin, this 2010 needs to be forgotten for at least a decade, and drunk over the following 30-40 years. It could be a 50-year wine.Robert Parker | 90+ RP

96
VM
As low as $235.00
2011 Joseph Phelps Backus Vineyard Napa, California Red

The 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon Backus Vineyard has closed down quite a bit since it was bottled in January of this year. Lavender, white flowers, blueberry jam and spices are some of the many notes that reluctantly open up over time. Persistent and silky, the 2011 is easy to appreciate today for its overall balance, but it will be some years before all the elements fully come together.Vinous Media | 95+ VMMany consumers may end up preferring the 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon Backus Vineyard over the 2010 because the vintage produced such forward, precocious, soft wines. Where well-made, they possess plenty of endearing fruit and charm, but they do not have the tannic clout of great vintages such as 2010. A blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot and 3% Malbec, it came in at 14.2% alcohol, but production is a small 800 cases. The bouquet includes attractive notes of scorched earth, chocolate, espresso roast, red and black currants and hints of underbrush and earth. Full-bodied (unusual for a 2011) with soft tannins and loads of fruit, it should drink well for 10-15 years.All of Joseph Phelps’ Sonoma Coast Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs will be included in the Sonoma report in the December, 2013 issue. One of the visionaries in California’s Rhone Ranger movement that began a quarter of a century ago, Phelps continues to focus on their Syrah program. I have mixed emotions about that because they made some wonderful wines from some other Rhone varietals in the past under the terminated Mistral label. On the www.erobertparker.com website, I will be posting one of the most historical vertical tastings I have ever done, that of Joseph Phelps’ proprietary red Bordeaux blend called Insignia, which was one of California’s first proprietary red Meritage wines launched in 1974. While visiting this winery in early September, I had the privilege of tasting every vintage from 1974 to 2012. This has always been a remarkable wine and sadly I am old enough to remember the 1974, to which I gave a great rating, but then suggested it be drunk within 10-12 years. I never thought it would last. Of course, it turned out to be one of the great mature wines of the vertical tasting, but more on that on the web site. The five vintages of Insignia which consumers should be keeping an eye on are 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011 and 2012. Here are my notes on those wines which are either on the market or soon will be. By the way, the production of Insignia over the last 15-20 years has ranged from a low of 10,000-12,000 cases to a whopping 20,000 cases, often with the highest production levels in some of the greatest years. There are usually around 750 to 1,300 cases of the Cabernet Sauvignon Backus Vineyard. Usually 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, it is fashioned from the red soils of the Oakville hillsides (a spectacular sight as you drive south on the Silverado Trail).Robert Parker | 91-93 RP

95+
VM
As low as $235.00
2013 Joseph Phelps Insignia, California Red

The 2013 Insignia (their 40th vintage) is a blend of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot, and the rest Merlot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc. This wine is aged 24 months in 100% new French oak barrels, and the production can vary from just over 10,000 cases to nearly 20,000 cases in a very abundant vintage. There were 12,300 cases produced in 2013, and this vintage of Insignia is certainly going to turn out to be one of the great ones. The wine offers a stunning inky blue/purple color, a gorgeous nose of blueberry and blackberry liqueur, pen ink, graphite, new saddle leather and barrique. The wine has fabulous concentration, a full-bodied, multi-layered mouthfeel, and tremendous finish with moderate tannin. It’s interesting to note that the Phelps winemaking staff had been gradually reducing the amount of Merlot in this wine over recent vintages. The 2013 should hit its peak in 5-7 years and last for 35-50.Robert Parker | 98 RPThe mighty Insignia shows a vibrancy of purpose and craft in this, its 40th vintage, combining 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot, 3% Merlot, 3% Malbec and 1% Cabernet Franc. Together they find a higher calling of perfumed violet, dark plum and berry along with graphite and an edginess of dried herb. Firm, structured tannins show tremendous potential for aging and decanting. This is a near-perfect effort from a blockbuster vintage.Wine Enthusiast | 98 WEThe 2013 Insignia is just as magnificent as it has always been. Refined and polished to the core, but with all of the power of the vintage, the 2013 simply has it all. Crème de cassis, lavender, plum and exotic spices infuse this deeply expressive edition of the Phelps flagship wine. The 2013 is remarkably silky for such a big wine.Vinous Media | 97 VMExtravagant aromas of crushed blackberries, mint, eucalyptus and flint. Full body, round and velvety textured. Rich and flavorful finish. Lusciousness with form. Reserved palate. Very attractive now but better in 2020.James Suckling | 95 JSInsignia has been built as a regional blend since its first vintage in 1974, becoming an estate-grown wine in 2004. It’s based on cabernet sauvignon grown in six vineyards, from Suscol in the south to sites in Oak Knoll, Stags Leap and Rutherford, up to Phelps’s Spring Valley Home Ranch in St. Helena. Ashley Hepworth has fine-tuned the style, so Insignia is still a rich wine, but now, especially in 2013, shows the kind of firmness of structure that makes the richness profound. This vintage is fresh and lively, even while it is dense and powerful, as if the power is coming out of the black raspberry fruit as well as the bright, sparkling-fresh mineral tones of the tannins. Delicious now if you give it several hours in a decanter, this is destined to evolve into a classic.Wine & Spirits | 95 W&SInsignia is typically blended around a backbone of Stags Leap District AVA fruit (40% in this vintage), with Southern Napa, Rutherford, Oak Knoll and St Helena making up the balance. It spends 24 months in 100% French oak, and in this vintage the blend is 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot, 3% Merlot, 3% Malbec and 1% Cabernet Franc. The warm 2013 vintage has given ripe black fruit on a supple, forward palate, the lengthy finish framed by granular tannins. Drinking Window 2020 - 2050.Decanter | 94 DECRich and full-bodied, but exhibiting the lift of a brighter red. The dark berry flavors give this an elegant mouthfeel and ease the tannic strength. Tempting now but worth cellaring. Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2018 through 2032. 12,300 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

98+
RP
As low as $275.00
2015 Joseph Phelps Insignia, California Red

The 2015 Insignia Proprietary Red Wine is blended of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Petit Verdot, 2% Cabernet Franc and 1% Malbec aged for 24 months in 100% new French oak. Deep garnet-purple colored, it opens with stunning black and red plums, cassis and mulberries scents with loads of redcurrant sparks and compelling wafts of lilacs, pencil shavings, black olives and tilled soil plus a hint of bay leaves. Medium to full-bodied, the palate explodes with red and black currant fireworks plus some exciting mineral nuances coming through, framed by firm, grainy tannins and fantastic freshness, finishing very long and beautifully layered. 12,400 cases produced.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPThe 2015 Insignia is a fleshy, flamboyant vintage for this wine and reminds me of the 1997. Tons of dark fruits, tobacco, cedar, and dried flower notes all give way to a full-bodied, seamless 2015 that has remarkable purity and elegance, yet still shows the vintage’s sexy style. Drink it any time over the coming two to three decades.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThis shows finesse and beauty with dark berries and wet earth. Subtle. Very fine-grained. Medium to full body. Bright and vivid. Lovely length and intensity. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 97 JSThis vintage of the perennial knockout is exceptional—a concentrated blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Petit Verdot, 2% Cabernet Franc and 1% Malbec. Pencil shavings, red currant and red plum are complemented by hints of crushed rock and cocoa, with persistent acidity maintaining balance. Like so many of its forebears, this is a wine well worth cellaring; enjoy 2025–2035.Wine Enthusiast | 97 WEAmple and perfumed, with tons of richness, the 2015 Insignia has a lot to offer. Sweet tobacco, menthol, licorice, plum, dried herbs and licorice add aromatic nuance to this decidedly extroverted, flamboyant wine. Even all of the wine's richness can't fully cover some rough edges, especially in the tannins, and a feel of stress that runs through the wine. It will be interesting to see if things smooth out in time, as there are elements of real contrast in the 2015. In the end, though, that is not entirely surprising given the challenges of the growing season. In 2015, Insignia does not contain Merlot, which also contributes to its feel relative to recent vintages.Vinous MediaVinous Media | 93 VMThis red offers lots of spice, cedar, gravel and lead pencil flavors, with the woodiness overshadowing the trim fruit. A Bordeaux-style version that begs for cellaring. Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Best from 2022 through 2032. 12,500 cases made.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

98
RP
As low as $265.00
2019 Joseph Phelps Insignia, California Red

Another beautiful wine from this team, the 2019 Insignia is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon but includes smaller amounts of Merlot and Malbec, brought up all in new barrels, sourced from seven estate vineyards. It has a classic varietal and incredibly complex nose of crème de cassis, freshly sharpened pencils, green tobacco, and damp earth, with a kiss of background sappy spring flowers. Seemingly from a cooler year with its freshness, vibrancy, and herbal, floral character on the nose, it’s nevertheless full-bodied and beautifully concentrated on the palate, with ultra-fine tannins, a seamless, layered mouthfeel, and a gorgeous finish. Unquestionably up with the finest vintages of this cuvée, this is legit awesome juice that’s going to offer incredible pleasure over the coming 20-25 years. Hats off to winemaker Ashley Hepworth.Jeb Dunnuck | 99 JDA very aromatic Insignia with pencil-shaving and graphite highlights to the dark fruit and blackberries. Full-bodied, yet tensioned and vertical, with very fine tannins that run deep and layered in the wine. Needs time to come together, but fantastic tension and structure. Try after 2027.James Suckling | 98 JSSmells ripe and heady on the nose, expressive and seductive. This is rich and bold, it’s edging on too much, with lots of wood on show in the slightly heavy texture, liquorice and coffee flavour and fullness in the mouth but there are such alluring and captivating aspects to this wine with striking details of rose, tobacco, blackberry, red berries and dark chocolate shavings on show. I like the fragranced aspects and the energetic acidity that gives lift and a sense of brightness but this is a strong, powerful and muscular wine that will need at least a decade to come around. Given enough time it will be beautiful. Ageing 24 months in 100% new French oak.Decanter | 97 DECMore elegant and refined than the Napa Cab, the 2019 Insignia features restrained cedar and vanilla notes (despite spending two years in 100% new French oak) and delicate herbal shadings accenting cassis and black cherry fruit. Full-bodied, velvety and somewhat open-knit on the palate, it turns plush and long on the finish, adding a touch of warmth. Production this year is approximately 17,000 cases, reflecting the increased volume coming from recently replanted vineyards. It’s remarkable what a good job they continue to do with this bottling year after year, without compromising on quality.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThe 2019 Insignia is a bold, explosive wine. Sumptuous dark fruit, mocha, leather, sweet spice and tobacco are all amplified in an Insignia endowed with tremendous textural intensity and plenty of soft contours. I imagine the 2019 will age well for years, but it will also drink well with minimal cellaring.Vinous Media | 96+ VMA solidly built Cabernet with a very direct persona, as dark currant, warmed fig reduction and blackberry fruit paste are bolted together with licorice root and singed cedar. Features an espresso crema hint on the finish, which keeps this on the dark, muscular side. Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Malbec. Best from 2023 through 2038. 17,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WSGiven two years in new French oak, this vintage blends 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot and 2% Malbec. Brooding black fruit is complemented by classic notions of cigar box, tobacco, iron and clove, with a leather texture that’s still got time to unfurl. Dense and chewy tannins provide a powerful imprint of intensity and ripeness matched in toasted oak. Enjoy best from 2029–2039.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WE

99
JD
As low as $349.00
2021 Joseph Phelps Insignia, California Red

A standout vintage for one of California’s most collectible cabernet sauvignons. The color is black throughout, but with a dark garnet rim. Gorgeous aromatics of spearmint, pencil shavings, toasted oak and dark plums, before a silky, fresh but firm texture takes over the palate and dusky blackcurrant, tobacco-leaf, rose-petal and cedar notes emerge and linger. Full-bodied and saturated with rounded, well-integrated tannins that emerge on the lingering finish and keep melting in the glass. It will drink best from 2028.James Suckling | 98 JSSet to be bottled in January 2024, the 2021 Insignia looks to be another huge success. A blend of 93% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Petit Verdot, with 2% each Cabernet Franc and Malbec, all matured in 100% new French oak, winemaker Ashley Hepworth said she thought production would be about 18,000 cases. Waves of cherries, cassis and dark chocolate mark the nose, while the palate is full-bodied, concentrated, rich, velvety, plush, layered and long. The dusty tannins suggest ample structure, yet the wine is plush enough to be almost approachable. It’s a truly complete, delicious, seductive wine, yet naysayers may criticize it for lacking a certain amount of individuality or soul.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96-98 RPNot yet bottled, the 2021 Insignia has a pure, concentrated, medium to full-bodied style that shows the vintage beautifully. Cassis, blue fruits, graphite, lead pencil shavings, and floral notes all define the bouquet, and it has beautiful tannins, a great mid-palate, and outstanding length.Jeb Dunnuck | 96-98 JDThe 2021 Joseph Phelps Insignia is well-endowed with structured, soaring tannins balanced by tension and pure fruit character. A blend of 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Petit Verdot, 2% Malbec, and 2% Cabernet Franc, aged 24 months in 100% new French oak barrels, it shows a luminescent medium ruby colour in the glass. Rich huckleberry fruit is laced with tobacco, sage, pepperonata, and toasty cedarwood notes. Medium- to full-bodied and more expressive on the palate with pure red fruit character, layered with earth and wet river stone minerality, finishing with a hint of salted dark chocolate. The tannins build on the palate, becoming more assertive, and though they are well-integrated, this is such a youthful wine with great energy, power and tension, and is best enjoyed after 2025.Decanter | 96 DECThe 2021 Insignia is still in barrel, but it is immensely promising. Bright acids and beams of tannin confer freshness. This is a mid-weight vintage of Insignia that is built more on finesse than power. Crème de cassis, lavender, spice and new leather linger.Vinous Media | 95-97 VMSinged alder and sweet tobacco lead off, backed by waves of lush warmed cassis and plum reduction. Chestnut and warm earth notes help drive the finish. Burly and muscular now, but the core of fruit shows inner purity. This will need some time. Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2028 through 2041. 16,600 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

98
JS
As low as $359.00

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