Cote de Beaune Wines

wines

15 hl/ha despite the best efforts of a wine turbine and bonfire which I saw in action at 4.30a.m. on a cold snowy morning. Pale colour, backward nose, white flowers perhaps. This has a fine balanced fruit, actually sweeter and riper, then oakier behind, with an attractive mineral thread. Needs a little freshening, which will happen before bottling Drink from 2026-2032. Tasted: October 2022.Jasper Morris | 92-95 JMA more restrained nose grudgingly reflects its aromas of strong petrol and mineral reduction with background hints of citrus zest and oak. There is fine mid-palate density to the tautly muscular broad-shouldered flavors that also exude evident minerality on the tightly coiled, lingering and balanced finale. This could use better depth so like the En Caradeux, at least a few years of keeping should prove beneficial.Burghound | 92 BH

The 2021 Chassagne-Montrachet Villages contains three barrels of the young vines in Les Caillerets. It has a crisp and enticing nose with apple blossom and crushed stone that soars from the glass. The palate is well balanced with fine nervosité, taut and linear with a vibrant, malic finish and a stony aftertaste.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM

The 2021 Chassagne-Montrachet Vieilles Vignes has a pretty nose with Golden Delicious and light honeysuckle scents. The palate is quite weighty in the mouth, a pleasing rondeur, peach and dried apricot notes towards the finish. Not long term, but this is quite delicious, more-ish Chassagne.Vinous Media | 90 VM

The 2021 Chassagne-Montrachet Chaumées Clos de la Truffières 1er Cru has a crisp, granite and jasmine-scented bouquet that blossoms nicely with aeration. The palate is well-balanced with a fine bead of acidity, lightly-spiced, peachy with hints of guava towards the finish. Fine length, this is a delicious, what you might call "mouth-filling" Chassagne-Montrachet.Vinous Media | 92 VM

The 2021 Puligny-Montrachet Les Quatre Climats is a multi-climat blend mandated due to the frost. It has a well-defined, quite minerally nose, focused and gaining complexity with aeration. The palate is well balanced with a brisk opening, orange rind and lemon peel, a dab of lemongrass with a simple but persistent finish. Enjoy this over the next decade.Vinous Media | 89-91 VM

A beautifully layered nose offers up its combination of white orchard, fruit, resin, petrol and ripe citrus. There is impressive concentration to the caressing and generously proportioned but powerful medium-bodied flavors that coat the palate with sappy dry extract on the balanced finale. This could use better depth, but more should develop if it’s given a few years of keeping.Burghound | 92 BHale colour, white fruit, with a certain intensity, and there is a little crystalline note behind, a good framework to work from and I like the way this finishes. It began anonymously and ends with personality. Drink from 2025-2029.Jasper Morris | 89-92 JM

The 2021 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Champgains unwinds in the glass with notes of pear, toasted nuts, honeycomb and light reduction, followed by a medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy palate that’s attractively textural and enveloping.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RPModerate reduction once again masks everything but citrus hints. On the palate there is excellent richness and concentration to the very generously proportioned medium-bodied flavors that are at once succulent but punchy, all wrapped in a lingering, dry and balanced finale. This could also use better depth but more should reasonable develop if given a chance. I would also note that this is already sufficiently pliant that it could be approached after only 3 to 4 years if desired.Burghound | 91 BH

The 2021 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers is pure and precise, revealing aromas of pear, crisp green apple, mint and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, with racy acids and a saline finish, it will age with grace.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPA hint of reduction shaves the high notes from the otherwise pretty citrus, pear and soft floral scents. There is less volume but notably better refinement to the delicious, vibrant and well-detailed flavors that possess a suave mouthfeel while delivering fine length on the clean, bright and balanced finale that isn’t quite as complex, at least not yet.Burghound | 91 BH

Once again there is a coolness to the pure and pretty aromas of various white orchard fruit, floral and subtle lemon zest wisps. There is excellent density to the rich and powerful medium weight plus flavors that conclude in a bone-dry, youthfully austere and impressively long finish. Like several wines in the range, this will need to develop better depth to merit my rating but that should reasonably occur in time.Burghound | 92 BHThe 2021 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot reveals aromas of pear, white flowers, freshly baked bread and beeswax, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and fleshy palate that’s vibrant and layered. This year, it includes Les Fairendes, which is sometimes bottled separately.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RP

Aromas of pear, lemon zest, freshly baked bread and toasted nuts preface the 2021 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chênes, a medium to full-bodied, pure and fleshy wine built around racy acids and chalky structuring extract. Again, this is a very strong effort at the communal level that illustrates this domaine’s upward trajectory.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90+ RP

A touch more yellow than the Perrières. A very fine nose, with the weight of Charmes but the sheer class of Perrières. Really impressive once again. With exceptional intensity to finish. You can’t call this as coming from a frozen minor vintage, chortles Stéphane, with some reason. Drink from 2027-2032.Jasper Morris | 93-96 JMA broad-ranging nose features notes of roasted nuts, petrol, white flower, Asian style spiced tea, apple and a subtle but still easily perceptible application of oak. The dense, serious and palate saturating flavors possess evident power and excellent minerality on the sappy, powerful and strikingly persistent finish. This is quite impressive, indeed like the Perrières the word classy comes to mind. A beautiful Charmes.Burghound | 92-94 BHThe 2021 Meursault Les Charmes Dessus 1er Cru is focused and delineated on the nose, apple blossom mixed with grilled walnut and a touch of smoke. The palate is well balanced with fine acidity, maybe just missing a bit of concentration, though there is satisfying mineralité on the finish. Drink over the next decade.Vinous Media | 90 VM

One barrel, an exchange. Paler colour and correctly chiselled. Very tight and with excellent concentration. The length is good too. Just a baby, but with promise. Stony lemons to finish. Drink from 2026-2031.Jasper Morris | 92-94 JMThe 2021 Corton-Charlemagne from Domaine Jean Chartron is another outstanding wine in the making. The complex nose wafts from the glass in a mix of apple, pear, a fine base of chalky soil tones, a touch of almond, spring flowers crème pâtissière and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, crisp and nascently complex, with a fine core of fruit, excellent focus and balance, bouncy acids and a long, balanced and soil-driven finish. This not showing quite the same mineral dimension as the top two Puligny premier crus right now, but it may well catch up in this regard with some extended bottle age. Fine juice. (Drink between 2027 - 2060)John Gilman | 94 JGOnce again there is an attractive coolness to the essence of green apple, spice and mineral reduction scents. There is superb delineation to the bigger-bodied and more powerful flavors that are at once muscular yet refined, all wrapped in a moderately austere finale where a touch of wood slowly emerges. This tightly wound and very promising effort should age like a classic Corton-Charlemagne.Burghound | 92-94 BHThis delicious wine presents aromas of citrus peel and hawthorn flowers coloured with a chalky, saline mineral edge and notes of cream, butter, and spice. This year the wine is made exclusively from a domaine-owned parcel in Pernand from the lieu-dit En Charlemagne that was planted in 1961 and picked on 25 September just before the rain. It produced a single barrel, which is ageing in a two-year-old cask from the cooper Chassin.Decanter | 93 DECThe 2021 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, reduced to one and a half barrels due to the absence of any exchange, sports quite a bit of reduction on the nose that makes it difficult to read at present. The palate is well balanced with fine acidity, quite taut and maybe just missing a little tension on the finish. Fine, though Chartron has made better in the past.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM

Firm reduction and a whiff of oak dominate the nose at present. Much more interesting are the beautifully textured, racy and detailed medium weight flavors that also possess a highly sophisticated mouthfeel while exhibiting stunningly good length on the bitter zest-inflected finish that goes on and on. This is terrific and easily delivers grand cru quality.Burghound | 94-96 BHMid lemon colour. As always, the bouquet rises above the others. I feel the need to keep on sniffing this! Brings a smile to the face. The 2021 Domaine Leflaive Pucelles offers such a complex mix of fruits, fresh apricot along with a mix of quality citrus, good density but above all a stylishness that expresses itself in a hugely long finish. Perfect balance with a lifted fresh elegance at the finish. This may yet earn a fifth star later in life. Drink from 2027-2035.Jasper Morris | 94-96 JMThe 2021 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru has a crisp, petrichor and green apple-scented bouquet, tight at first but opening up nicely with aeration. The palate is fresh and crisp with a subtle reduction at play, fine depth, lightly spiced with stem ginger and a dab of lemongrass towards the finish. This should drink nicely over the next decade.Vinous Media | 89-91 VM

This is also aromatically cool and decidedly restrained with its array of green apple, mineral reduction, citrus zest and a vaguely Chablis-like hint of oyster shell and iodine. The beautifully textured broad-shouldered flavors flash both focused power and an abundance of minerality on the tension-filled, bone-dry and balanced finale. This is also a strikingly pretty wine that is very much built to reward extended keeping.Burghound | 95 BHIn 2021 the Boillot Corton-Charlemagne is all from Aloxe and not the three communes. Mid lemon yellow. The nose has some style, flesh and floral and potentially stony. More wood is showing at the back but there is so much wine still to come out. Lemon juice intensity at the back. Very long again Drink from 2027-2035.Jasper Morris | 93-95 JMTaut and structured, the 2021 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru delivers aromas of citrus zest, freshly baked bread and white flowers, followed by a full-bodied, satiny palate that’s chalky and incisive, concluding with a penetrating finish. This cuvée is acquired in grapes and pressed by Boillot.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-94 RPThe 2021 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is another stellar white from Boillot. All citrus, white pepper and crushed rocks, the Charlemagne sizzles with energy. There’s terrific focus here and plenty of cut too. This vibrant, airy Charlemagne hits all the right notes. It is a fine effort in this challenging vintage. To deal with the tiny volume in 2021, Guillaume Boillot had a 228-liter barrel made with 50% new oak staves and 50% staves from a once-used barrel. - Antonio GalloniVinous Media | 92-94 VM

Made from two plots, one each in Pernand and Ladoix, but just two barrels this year instead of eight. Pale lemon and lime. A more reductive nose with a little oaky note, one new barrel in the two. Will take some time for the fruit to push past that. Plenty of fruit volume though and the style is typical of the appellation. White fruit, lemons, a little banana note, and a stony finish. Indeed plenty of weight at the finish. Drink from 2026-2032.Jasper Morris | 93 JM

Cool, pure and elegant aromas include those of honeysuckle, green apple and a pretty range of citrus elements. There is a bit more volume if less minerality to the medium weight flavors that deliver excellent length on the balanced if slightly less complex finale. This is also very good and offers similar development potential.Burghound | 91-93 BH

Monsieur Riffault’s 2021 Puligny AC is outstanding and was clearly one of the best villages level wines I tasted on this trip. The bouquet is flat out beautiful, jumping from the glass in a mix of lemon, white peach, a gorgeous base of chalky minerality, vanillin oak and a floral topnote redolent of apple blossoms. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and nicely concentrated at the core, with a supreme sense of elegance, lovely transparency and grip, zesty acids and a long, focused and seamlessly balanced finish. Fine, fine juice. (Drink between 2025 - 2045)John Gilman | 91+ JGA subtle but perceptible dollop of oak frames fresh and bright aromas of citrus, acacia and Granny Smith apples. The racy and moderately concentrated medium-bodied flavors possess both excellent precision and a really lovely texture, all wrapped in a markedly dry but not really austere finale that flashes excellent length. This is a very fine Puligny villages and worth checking out plus it should age gracefully.Burghound | 90 BHThe 2021 Puligny-Montrachet Village has a taut and strict nose, well defined, green apple mixed with subtle petrichor/wet pavement scents. The palate is well balanced with lemon zest, lime and a dab of ginger, gently building towards a nicely composed and delineated finish. This should give 8-10 years’ drinking pleasure.Vinous Media | 89-91 VMNoticeably more of a primrose yellow colour at this stage (long before cleaning up). A bit more lees in the sample. Concentrated, backward, really a lot more wine here than the Chassagne, a full fruit with some yellow notes, ripe but balanced, and avoids the sweet and sour which afflicted so many 2016s. Fair density, medium length, a sound and solid 2021 Puligny. Drink from 2025-2030. Tasted: October 2022.Jasper Morris | 89-91 JM

The 2022 Meursault Vignes Blanches is a new purchase for the Domaine on deeper soils on the Volnay side towards Santenots. The vines were planted in 1948, with a small portion re-grafted this year. The well-defined bouquet has touches of chalk infusing the citrus fruit. Tightly-coiled, but this has a lot to give down the line. The vibrant and tensile palate is lively and full of energy. Harmonious with a brisk and linear finish, this is a Village Cru punching at Premier Cru level.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMNew in 2022, from old vines low on the slope. Mid yellow, softly oaky from the mix of normal oak and 450 litre barrels. The fruit starts out quite soft with a ripe plum and lemon scented fruit, then a little less marked behind. Medium length. Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted: October 2023.Jasper Morris | 88-90 JM