Cote de Beaune Wines

wines

The magnificent, carousel-like sweep of the hill of Corton – almost 100 m top to bottom, and revelling in every exposition save north – means that exact location on the hill is critical for quality. The white wines of Corton-Charlemagne come overwhelmingly from south-west- and west-facing vineyards, coolly exposed, so often these are among the least articulate of all Burgundy’s great white Grands Crus in their youth. Not, though, in the case of this wine from the generous 2022 vintage. It’s promisingly pale, but already compelling on the nose, with subtle oak, wild hawthorne blossom and refined grape and cool citrus. It has all the controlled breadth you’d expect on the palate with more white blossom and subtle, vinous, breath-freshening fruits. The finish is long and lingering, mingling ripe, fruit-bonded acidity with a quiet pulse of ripeness. It will, of course, be better after a decade in a cool cellar, but there’s nothing to stop you enjoying the wine soon, either. Alcohol 13.0%. (DWWA 2024). - Decanter | 97 DECFour plots all in Pernand. Pale in colour with ripe apple notes. The bouquet suggests a leaner style of wine than the palate delivers, which may be a question of being just after bottling. There is some complexity on the palate, a little lime, a phenolic touch. I don’t notice the 40% new wood, so there is clearly good fruit concentration.Jasper Morris | 92-95 JM

Here there is just enough reduction to blur the nuances of the floral and citrus confit-scented nose. On the palate though there is excellent freshness and underlying tension to the caressing, round and utterly delicious larger-bodied flavors that display lovely fruit-acid balanced on the citrusy, youthfully austere and lingering finale. It’s not often that I describe any Morgeot as ’stylish’ but this lovely effort qualifies.Burghound | 92 BH

A more moderate dollop of wood can be found on the smoky aromas of petrol, rosemary oil and a variety of white fleshed fruit. The finer, though not nearly as concentrated, medium weight flavors display excellent power on the focused, balanced and saliva-inducing finale. This is more classic in style than any of the foregoing 1ers and a wine that should repay mid-term keeping.Burghound | 90-92 BH

Here too there is subtle if perceptible wood framing the ripe citrus confit and white orchard fruit-scented nose. The delicious and energetic medium-bodied flavors that possess a caressing mouthfeel while exuding a bead of minerality that adds a sense of lift to the balanced, firmer and slightly longer finale. Lovely and understated in style.Burghound | 91 BHBottled in early August. Clear colour, a softer white fruit here, open and delicious. Seems more generous but less precise compared to Chenevottes but there is certainly plenty of wine here. Drink from 2028-2034. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 91 JM

Bottled yesterday. Pale colour, elegant and stylish, then keeps going, this isa Folatières of elegance more than weight, with a classy and nuanced white fruit. Allow for this to develop more body as it grows up in bottle. Drink from 2028-2037. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 93 JMThere is a vague whiff of the exotic present on the elegant nose that offers up essence of pear, passion fruit and discreet floral wisps. The middleweight flavors are finer though not as concentrated while displaying very good length on the, stone and bitter lemon-inflected bone-dry finale.Burghound | 91 BH

Pale clear lemon. This is one of the more crystalline Maltroies, from vines below the house. Then fleshier on the palate with good white fruit concentration. The wine maintains a fine balance throughout between the flesh and the more linear thread. Drink from 2027-2035. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-93 JM

In Les Combards, the upper slope section of Caillerets. Pale lemon yellow. Quite a strict nose, a little suggestion of sulphur in with the stones. Always likely to be more austere from its location. At this stage at least it is not quite as complete as the very best Caillerets, but lovely wine. The finish is the best, with ripe lemons. Drink from 2028-2035. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 92-94 JMThe 2022 Chassagne Montrachet Les Caillerets 1er Cru has another expressive bouquet, with hints of yellow flower combining with citrus peel and lemon verbena. This gains intensity in the glass. The palate is well balanced, with a crisp, orange rind- and tangerine-tinged entry. Perhaps the Morgeot Les Grand Clos conveys more terroir on the finish, but this will still offer eight to ten years’ drinking pleasure.Vinous Media | 91 VM

The 2022 Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot Les Grands Clos has a clean and precise bouquet of Granny Smith and Conference pear, quite Puligny-like in style. The palate is fresh on the entry, with a fine bead of acidity, quince and orange zest in the background and a lifted, very expressive finish that is an absolute delight.Vinous Media | 92 VMMid lemon colour, racy. A little stricter and chunkier than the graciousness of Fairendes, with a lemon infused energy at the back. Much more massive in structure, a real sense of energy throughout, less elegance than Fairendes, more power. Drink from 2028-2036. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 92-95 JM

Aromas of green apple, white flowers, orange oil and buttery pastry preface the 2022 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers, a medium to full-bodied, taut and racy wine with a satiny attack and all this site’s signature energy and cut.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPLight soil which gives high acid wines. Pale lemon colour. A stricter white fruit up at this end of the village, but no less intense. Excellent tension, you can almost taste the mother rock. A clean and crystalline finish. Drink from 2028-2035. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 93 JMHere the wood treatment is less subtle though by no means invasive on the smoky and floral-suffused aromas of mostly white fleshed fruit and citrus rind. The rich and generously proportioned yet quite punchy middle weight flavors also possess a seductive texture thanks to the sappy dry extract that serves to buffer the moderately firm and bright acidity supporting the solidly lengthy finish. This is not as dense as the Fairendes but it’s finer with fine complexity as well. Worth checking out.Burghound | 92 BH

The 2022 Puligny-Montrachet Noyers Brets has also turned out very nicely, revealing aromas of apple blossom, pear and hazelnuts, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and fleshy palate that’s bright and saline.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RPPale colour with green reflexes. There is clay in the soil here, just under Enseignères. Very intense, liquorice notes over and above concentrated fresh apple, plenty of body, good acidity, Impressive length. I like this! Drink from 2026-2032. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 91 JM

Racked to tank. A glowing pale primrose. Not very much reduction. Good weight, a light lemon acidity behind a fine depth of concentrated fruit. With time I think more personality will emerge. Drink from 2028-2035. Tasted Dec 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JM

Cool, ripe and pretty aromas include those of green apple, wet stone, petrol and a hint of soil tones. The vibrant medium weight flavors are, somewhat surprisingly, finer than those of the Caillerets if not as rich while displaying fine length on the compact, lemony and lightly mineral-infused finale. This is lovely and understated and a wine that should repay up to a decade of keeping.Burghound | 91 BH

Lovely nose of candied citrus with just a touch of butterscotch. Quite rich on the medium- to full-bodied palate, but very gentle and delicate. Lovely harmony of fine tannins, chalky minerality and ripe acidity that is already extremely satisfying in the long, silky finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 94 JSThe dense texture in this balanced and juicy white embraces ripe peach, spiced pear, butterscotch and smoke flavors. This is solidly structured, with light tannins lending a tactile feel on the lingering finish. Best from 2025 through 2032. 180 cases made, 60 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WSThere is a vague hint of exotic character to the aromas of white and yellow peach, passion fruit, spice and wet stone. Here too there is excellent volume to the beguilingly rich flavors that, somewhat curiously, display a touch of rusticity on the otherwise markedly zest-inflected finale. This could use better depth so a few years of cellaring should help.Burghound | 90 BH

This beautiful Puligny-Montrachet 1er cru has a subtle nose of bergamot and orange zest with notes of wild herbs. Excellent tension on the generous but focused palate, driving the very long, structured finish, which has a serious stony minerality. From a high-altitude site that may well become better known due to climate change. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JSThis white is creamy, with ample baking spice, butterscotch, peach and lemon cake flavors. Shows latent power yet remains fresh and long on the complex finish, where the fruit and spice elements echo. Drink now through 2030. 1,250 cases made, 350 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WSA discreet application of wood frames the pretty aromas of the essence of pear and apple compote, carnation and crushed fennel. The sleek and intense middleweight flavors possess both good richness and a subtle minerality that adds a sense of lift to the markedly zest-inflected finale that exhibits solid length. Once again there is enough gas to notice so a few minutes in a decanter would be helpful.Burghound | 91 BH

All domaine fruit now, from Les Chevalières, Luraule. Pelles, Casses Têtes, Petits Charrons. Pale to medium lemon yellow. A generous bouquet speaking clearly of Meursault. A broad bench of ripe white apple fruit with excellent energy, good acidity behind, and notable persistence. Very Meursault and quite delicious. Drink from 2027-2034. Tasted: December 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-93 JMThe 2022 Meursault is a rich, opulent white. Lemon confit, marzipan, spice and crushed rocks are all amplified. Clean mineral notes extend the finish while also providing a counterpoint to all the textural richness. The Meursault is a blend of parcels (including En Luraule, Petits Charrons, Casse-Têtes, Les Pelles), all estate, high up on the slope. The 25% new oak is nicely judged. - Antonio GalloniVinous Media | 90-92 VM

Here the equally cool, airy and elegant nose reflects citrus and floral scents that are liberally-suffused with a similar dose of borderline pungent wet stone nuances. There is both excellent volume and focused power to the dense and intense medium-bodied flavors that exude an almost palpable minerality on the superbly long finish that comes close to etching itself on the palate. This is an absolute knockout and a clear candidate for the best premier cru of the vintage.Burghound | 96 BHGuillaume Boillot continues to work his nearly four hectares of old vines in the Clos de la Mouchère in several parcels; we tasted each section separately. The vines near the wood surrounding Clos de la Garenne have bright citrus notes with hints of flint and mineral. Those near Clavoillon have more of a ripe pear and marzipan aroma; they are less focused but have more density, elegance and depth. The combination makes a superb wine that is one of the delights of Boillot’s cellar.Decanter | 95 DECMid yellow, with a biscuity touch. Seems unsubtle until you get to the palate which is super powerful but also with subtlety. This Monopole vineyard comprises four distinct terroirs though they are always assembled. An electric backbone stops the power overturning the balance. Yellow fruit, and then an extraordinary, indeed grand cru, weight. Incisive white fruit finish. Drink from 2030-2038. Tasted: December 2023.Jasper Morris | 95-97 JMThe 2022 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchère 1er Cru is one of the most shut down of the whites in this vast range. Mineral and savory notes abound, but fruit is decidedly pushed into the background. Citrus confit, crushed rocks, mint and white pepper all race across the palate. There’s quite a bit of youthful austerity at this stage, but this should come together in time. A whole range of complex floral and tropical nuances linger. - Antonio GalloniVinous Media | 93-95 VM

Clos des Angles is seldom an imposing wine from d’Angerville, but it is always charming. In 2022, there is a ripe, plummy fruit with a richness that has almost an undertone of dark chocolate on the palate and a hint of earth and Havana cigar. The texture is supple and approachable even now, and there is an irresistible sweetness to the fruit on the palate that continues straight through the lingering finish. The grapes are from just over a hectare downslope from Fremiets, near the border with Pommard, yet this is very ’Volnay’ in its accessible style.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECThe 2022 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Angles unfurls in the glass with aromas of blackberries and cherries mingled with rose petals, potpourri and orange rind. Medium to full-bodied, pure and charming, with an enveloping attack and a bright mineral spine, it will offer a broad drinking window.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RPA fresh, bright and airy mix is comprised by notes of red and blue pinot fruit, plum, spice and a floral wisp. There is excellent detail to the even finer middleweight flavors that also flash evident minerality on the sappy, youthfully austere and impeccably well-balanced finale. This is pretty much textbook Clos des Angles and one that should age accordingly.Burghound | 91-94 BHA fine bright mid crimson purple. The nose has a little more immediate fruit than the 1er Cru blend. Concentrated raspberries, though the palate adds a slight strawberry note as well. This is supple, with energy to the fruit, but not too much structure behind. One of the earlier wines to drink among the d’Angerville 2022s. Drink from 2028-2035. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-93 JMThe 2022 Volnay Clos des Angles 1er Cru has a ripe and generous nose compared to the generic Premier Cru with ebullient red cherries, white-tipped strawberry and a light sous-bois note. The palate is medium-bodied and fuller than the aforementioned Premier Cru, with fine tannins and still that deft, peppery finish. The 2022 is not a complex Volnay, but it will drink well for around 15 years.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM

Although the vines for this Fremiets are very close to those for the Clos des Angles bottling, the style is very different – it is much more mineral, almost salty, with bright black fruit, notes of violets and spice, and a texture with abundant tannic grip and an almost chewy feel. The domaine farms nearly 1.6 hectares on the steeper slopes with shallow soils. Although it is not as reserved as the Clos des Ducs, this would benefit from five years of age before opening. (Drink between 2025 - 2050)Decanter Magazine | 95 DECThe 2022 Volnay Fremiet 1er Cru has more depth and fruit concentration compared to the Clos des Angles. The nose displays a mélange of red and black fruit, pressed flowers and a touch of loam aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, just a slight lactic note on the entry, segueing into a more marine-tinged latter half. A pinch of black pepper appears toward the finish. Give this two or three years in bottle.Vinous Media | 93 VMAromas of kirsch, black raspberry, anise and plenty of spice nuances are trimmed in just enough oak to notice. The suave, palate coating and solidly concentrated flavors possess a richer and more generous mouthfeel where equally fine-grained tannins shape the less mineral-driven but slightly longer finish. In the context of what is typical, this is a relatively powerful Frémiets that is very much built to repay extended keeping.Burghound | 92-94 BHOffering up aromas of raspberries, plums, sweet spices and petals, the 2022 Volnay 1er Cru Fremiet is medium to full-bodied, pure and lively, with refined, powdery tannins and a fine-boned, elegant profile.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RPMid crimson purple. The vineyard is just above Clos des Angles, and bears some similarity on the nose. However, the fruit is a little deeper, and darker on the palate, good acidity here, just a little more structure all round. Drink from 2030-2037. Tasted Oct 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JM

Even in a hot year such as 2022, it struck me as odd that the Taillepieds would be more open than many other wines in the d’Angerville cellar. Yet, there was a strikingly lush blackberry fruit character with generous earthy nuance and a hint of violets that was delightful. The sweet fruit character carried through on the palate, with a plump yet still tannic and substantial texture. Given this profile, it will be ready to drink three to five years after the vintage, yet it should age well.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECThe 2022 Volnay Les Taillepieds 1er Cru has a beautifully defined bouquet, as I wrote before, just "pure Pinoté." It shows hints of blood orange that I did not notice from barrel or have since developed. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannins that belie the almost Pommard-like backbone of this Volnay. Sapid and quite direct on the finish, this should age with style. Excellent.Vinous Media | 94 VMThe 2022 Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds is terrific, unwinding in the glass with aromas of dark berries, cherries and plums mingled with notions of rose petals, sweet soil tones and spices. Medium to full-bodied, deep and elegantly muscular, with a sweet core of fruit and youthfully assertive tannins, it will require but also reward patience.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPRipe yet attractively fresh aromas of wet stone, plum and a range of floral elements gives way to the super-sleek, intense and delicious flavors that possess a lovely texture on the youthfully austere, hugely long and linear finale that is pungently mineral in character. This is also very classy though note well that like all classic examples of Taillepieds, it’s compact, backward and is a wine that absolutely needs time.Burghound | 93-95 BH