France Wines

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Mid yellow, with a biscuity touch. Seems unsubtle until you get to the palate which is super powerful but also with subtlety. This Monopole vineyard comprises four distinct terroirs though they are always assembled. An electric backbone stops the power overturning the balance. Yellow fruit, and then an extraordinary, indeed grand cru, weight. Incisive white fruit finish. Drink from 2030-2038. Tasted: December 2023.Jasper Morris | 95-97 JMThe 2022 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchère 1er Cru is one of the most shut down of the whites in this vast range. Mineral and savory notes abound, but fruit is decidedly pushed into the background. Citrus confit, crushed rocks, mint and white pepper all race across the palate. There’s quite a bit of youthful austerity at this stage, but this should come together in time. A whole range of complex floral and tropical nuances linger. - Antonio GalloniVinous Media | 93-95 VMGuillaume Boillot continues to work his nearly four hectares of old vines in the Clos de la Mouchère in several parcels; we tasted each section separately. The vines near the wood surrounding Clos de la Garenne have bright citrus notes with hints of flint and mineral. Those near Clavoillon have more of a ripe pear and marzipan aroma; they are less focused but have more density, elegance and depth. The combination makes a superb wine that is one of the delights of Boillot’s cellar.Decanter | 95 DEC

The 2022 Chassagne-Montrachet Clos de la Maltroie 1er Cru is actually more backward on the nose compared to the Village Cru, tightly coiled with mineral-driven, malic fruit. The palate is well balanced with neatly integrated oak on the entry. Fresh and saline, there’s ample grip toward the finish, with just a touch of grilled walnut and fine length. Excellent. Tasted at merchants’ 2022 Burgundy tastings in London.Vinous Media | 93 VMAn attractive mid lemon. Slightly yellower fruit. Good acidity with a leaner style of fruit. Maltroie rarely shines in its youth, and this is again in the more austere style. Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted: October 2023.Jasper Morris | 91 JM

A wine of intense concentration, tension and focus, even in the warm conditions of 2022. Aroma notes of ripe apple, peach and quince, then the volume and density you’d expect from 2022, but it’s well balanced by the fresh acidity that draws it to a lingering finish. Grapes from Niellon’s plot of old vines are fermented on native yeasts in 40% new cask. This wine is among the best from this vintage and will make old bones if you are so inclined.Decanter | 98 DECThe vines were planted in 1962 and 1968. Pale to mid lemon in colour. A light reduction on the nose. The limestone is close to the surface on the nose, a little biscuit note, this is discreet but evidently with a fine tensile strength. Just leave this the time to blossom and it will become a really fine example. Drink from 2030-2038. Tasted: October 2023.Jasper Morris | 95 JM

The 2022 Puligny-Montrachet Village, from the usual 12 parcels, has a fragrant bouquet of Golden Delicious and light earthy scents, well-defined with good vigor. The palate is well-balanced with a sapid entry and a touch of bitter lemon, quite taut towards the finish with decent length. Typically Puligny in style, this should give a decade of drinking pleasure.Vinous Media | 89-91 VMFresh lemon and lime colour. The little lime note is there again. This is delicious on the palate, fills out a little more, retaining a chalky note. Balanced, precise and long. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted: October 2023.Jasper Morris | 89-91 JMAromas of pear, orange oil, toasted nuts and white flowers introduce the 2022 Puligny-Montrachet Village. With a medium to full-bodied, satiny and fleshy palate and lively acids, it has nice back-end grip.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 88-90 RP