France Wines

wines

The brioche and cooked-apple and cream character really comes through here. Full-bodied and round with fine bubbles. Flavorful and intense. Vivid, bread-dough finish. This is four years on lees. 55% chardonnay and the rest pinot.James Suckling | 93 JS(roughly 55% chardonnay and 45% pinot noir, from three different vintages that the producer won’t disclose; L13PZ109360): Bright yellow-gold. A heady, mineral-tinged bouquet evokes dried pear, buttery brioche, lemon curd and anise, plus a smoky topnote. Chewy and expansive on the palate, offering concentrated orchard and pit fruit flavors and a touch of bitter quinine. The smoky note repeats on the finish, which shows impressive clarity and mineral-driven persistence.Vinous Media | 93 VMThe latest rendition of Laurent-Perrier’s NV Brut is showing nicely, wafting from the glass with scents of almond paste, iodine, white peach, warm biscuits and mandarin. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, with an elegant, lively profile, displaying a youthfully frothy mousse, good tension at the core and an attractively chalky finish. This is an excellent non-vintage wine that seems to reflect the maison’s efforts to improve their grape sourcing over the last few years.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RPA delicate Champagne, with a refined mousse and finely honed acidity, this offers a subtle range of black currant, lemon zest, toast and chalk flavors that linger on the lightly spiced finish. Drink now through 2020.Wine Spectator | 91 WSThis is smooth and softly textured wine. With its relatively high dosage and creamy texture, this standard nonvintage cuvée is immediately accessible and delicious. Great fruit makes it a great aperitif style of Champagne.Wine Enthusiast | 90 WEThis wine’s fresh fruit and firm structure match bright lemon zest flavors with limestone severity. The fine bubbles add to the clean sensation of the finish. It’s spicy, tight and formidable, a wine to kick-start a dinner party. Best Buy.Wine & Spirits | 90 W&S

(NV R.H. Coutier Brut Cuvée Rosé Grand Cru Rosé) A moderately fruity yet beautifully complex nose speaks of a variety of red berries along with hints of green apple, pear and yeast. With air the flavors really open up to reveal the same outstanding complexity as displayed by the nose along with excellent verve and a very fine mousse, all wrapped in a tangy and dry finish that just avoids a trace of austerity. As to drinkability, this is actually delicious now, though those that prefer their rosés with a bit of age could cellar this with confidence as well. In a word, terrific and it also offers simply wonderful value. (Drink starting 2013)Burghound | 93 BHThe NV Brut Rose Grand Cru would be a highlight in virtually every other cellar, but here the competition is quite stiff. This release is built on the 2008 vintage, and it is the personality of the year that comes through most. Expressive red berries, flowers, mint and crushed rocks burst from the glass as this energetic wine shows off its pure vibrancy and class. Coutier’s NV Brut Rose is another clear winner. Disgorged May 2012. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016.Coutier is one of my favorite among Champagne’s smaller houses. The wines always deliver tons of quality at reasonable prices. The estate is located in Ambonnay, a village with a reputation for broad-shouldered Champagnes. Coutier lists disgorgement dates on their corks, which is better than nothing but far from consumer-friendly. This is the last year I will review the Coutier NV wines until disgorgement dates appear on back labels.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPA pure note of macerated cherry is backed by a firm acidity in this lively rosé Champagne, while a subtle, smoky underpinning and hints of pink grapefruit peel and grated ginger ride the creamy bead. Disgorged December 2019. Drink now through 2023. 500 cases made, 150 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WSNo written review provided. | 91 W&SThe NV Brut Rosé Grand Cru is bright, airy and effusive, all of which give it tremendous charm. Crushed red berry fruit, mint, spice and dried cherry fruit all take shape effortlessly. This attractive, understated Rosé is full of charm, but also looks to be a near-term drinker. This release is 85% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Noir (including a portion of still red wine), based on 2016 with 40% reserve wines. Dosage is 6 grams per liter. Disgorged: February, 2021.Antonio Galloni | 90 AG(NV R. H. Coutier Brut Rosé NV (Ambonnay)) The Coutier family’s bottling of Brut Rosé in the market today is from the base year of 2015, with forty percent of the blend composed of reserve wines. The cépages is eighty-five percent chardonnay and fifteen percent pinot noir and the wine was disgorged in December of 2019 and finished with a dosage of seven grams per liter. All of the pinot noir in the blend is still red wine. The new release offers up a beautiful bouquet of cherries, rhubarb, rye bread, chalky soil tones and orange zest in the upper register. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied and youthfully zesty, with a good core of fruit and soil signature, frothy mousse and lovely length and grip on the nascently complex and youthful finish. This is still fairly primary and further bottle age will be nicely rewarded. (Drink between 2022-2035)John Gilman | 90+ JG

(55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay; 9 g/l dosage; LAH9V): Light orange. Sharply focused red berry and tangerine scents are complicated by suggestions of allspice and cinnamon, with a hint of smokiness in the background. Sappy and minerally on the palate, offering fresh strawberry and blood orange flavors lifted by juicy acidity. Packs a serious punch but carries no excess weight and finishes stony and very long, with echoing red berry character.Vinous Media | 92 VM...Sharply focused red berry and tangerine scents are complicated by suggestions of allspice and cinnamon, with a hint of smokiness in the background. Sappy and minerally on the palate, offering fresh strawberry and blood orange flavors lifted by juicy acidity. Packs a serious punch but carries no excess weight and finishes stony and very long, with echoing red berry character.Vinous Media | 92 VMRaspberry and nectarine fruit flavors are ripe and appealing in this elegant rosé Champagne, with a fine, satiny mousse, neatly layered with accents of ground ginger, blanched almond and blood orange pith. Lightly mouthwatering, offering a lingering finish. Drink now through 2021.Wine Spectator | 92 WSA blend of 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay, and featuring around 25% reserve wines, this is 100% premier cru fruit from the Montagne des Reims and Côte des Blancs. Almost a third of the Pinot Noir was vinified as a still wine. A deep coral colour, this is fresh and youthful, with rounded wild red berry fruit, and hint of rose. With some time in the glass, it develops deeper, complex, more exotic notes, leading to a long and lively finish. Dosage: 8g/L. Drinking Window 2021 - 2026.Decanter | 92 DECStrawberry and pomegranate-infused yeasty autolysis aromas with freshly baked pastry and fresh bready notes. The palate has ripe peach fruits, strawberries and some hints of pink grapefruit. Sweetness, richness and a lively acid kick. Berry pie finish. Drink now.James Suckling | 92 JS(NV Dom Ruinart Brut Rosé NV (Reims)) The new release of non-vintage Dom Ruinart Brut Rosé is really a beautiful color, with cherry highlights in its deep salmon most inviting. The cépages is forty-five percent chardonnay and fifty-five percent pinot noir, with the wine going through full malo and finished with a dosage of nine grams per liter. I do not know what percentage of the pinot noir in the blend is still wine. The nose is really first class, wafting from the glass in a deep and complex blend of cherries, blood orange, rye bread, complex soil tones, a touch of cinnamon stick, orange peel and rose petals in the upper register. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and solid at the core, with fine focus and grip, lovely balance, elegant mousse and a long, classy finish. Good juice that should be even better with a few years’ worth of bottle age. (Drink between 2016-2035).John Gilman | 91+ JGIn the generous style that is Ruinart, the wine is full with red fruits that are mouthfilling and rich. At the same time, there is a crisp streak of mineral texture that cuts through the wine to give a bright aftertaste. Drink this beautifully balanced Champagne now.Wine Enthusiast | 91 WE

One of the best value grandes marques on the market, a blend of 60 crus, with roughly a third each of Pinot Noir, Meunier and Chardonnay, vinified individually by cru and variety, in stainless steel. Compared to other grandes marques, it is high (40%) in reserve wines, averaging 10 years old and dating back to 1990. Quite a floral style with lemon sherbet intensity and bready, leesy characters. It has great concentration and complexity, with a lovely grip of acidity on the finish. Drinking Window 2020 - 2025.Decanter | 93 DEC(NV Charles Heidsieck “Brut Réserve” NV (Reims)) The new release of Charles Heidsieck noon-vintage “Brut Réserve” is a blend of one-third each chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier- for the base year wines, which hail from 2008. However, forty percent of the cuvée is made up of reserve wines, with these being an equal blend of chardonnay and pinot noir, as the maison does not hold back meunier for its reserves. The wine spent eight years aging sur latte and was finished with a dosage of eleven grams per liter after its disgorgement in 2017. The wine is absolutely superb and clearly one of the best bargains out there in the world of non-vintage Brut from the Grandes Marques, as it offers up a pure and complex nose of pear, white peach, brioche, a touch of fresh almond, complex, chalky soil tones and a smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and refined, with excellent mid-palate depth, frothy mousse, lovely acidity and grip and a very long, complex and classy finish. This is terrific bubbly. (Drink between 2018-2045)John Gilman | 93 JGFresh and fruity while also rich and full in the mouth, this is a superbly balanced nonvintage selection. It is not quite dry with its apple and citrus fruits both given some softness. Disgorged in 2012, it already has two years bottle age that has rounded out the wine. Drink now.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WEThis vibrant version shows a range of toasted brioche, baked cherry, crystalized honey, grated ginger and coconut flavors, remaining light-footed and lively throughout. Beautifully balanced, with a lasting, mouthwatering finish.Wine Spectator | 93 WSBased on the 2014 vintage, complemented by fully 40% old reserve wines, the new release of Charles Heidsieck's NV Brut Réserve was disgorged earlier this year. It's showing very well, opening up in the glass with notes of green apple, dried white flowers, pear, candied peel and walnuts. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, with a textural attack and a racier, tighter-knit core than either the 2012- or 2010-base renditions, displaying good concentration and underlying richness. This is a bottling that continues to punch above its weight and which both merits and rewards a few years in the cellar before opening.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92+ RPThis offers big house complexity in terms of toasty reductive warmth on the nose, as well as an array of grilled peach, praline and wild red berries. The palate has assertive flavorsome appeal, delivered in a well-crafted style. Fresh berries and stone fruits rule the finish. Drink now.James Suckling | 92 JS