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The 1990 La Chapelle is the sexy and opulent. I had the 1990 at the Jaboulet tasting, and again out of a double magnum three months ago. On both occasions it was spectacular, clearly meriting a three-digit score. The modern day equivalent of the 1961, it deserves all the attention it has garnered.The color remains an opaque purple, with only a slight pink at the edge. Spectacular aromatics offer up aromas of incense, smoke, blackberry fruit, cassis, barbecue spice, coffee, and a touch of chocolate. As it sits in the glass, additional nuances of pepper and grilled steak emerge. There is extraordinary freshness for such a mammoth wine in addition to abundant tannin, an amazing 60-second finish, and a level of glycerin and thick, fleshy texture that have to be tasted to be believed.Despite its youthfulness, the 1990 La Chapelle is lovely to drink, although it will be even better with another 5-6 years of cellaring; it should age for 35-40+ years. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2050.Robert Parker | 100 RPI’ve been lucky enough to drink probably a case of the 1990 Hermitage La Chapelle, and it’s always either rated pure perfection or just off that magical number. On this occasion, it tasted like a newly released wine and offered incredible purity and freshness in its crème de cassis, crushed rocks, spring flowers, chocolate, and smoke meat aromas and flavors. Deep, brilliantly concentrated, yet also elegant and seamless, it’s just now starting to show hints of secondary aromas and is going to be incredibly long-lived. One of the greatest Hermitages ever made, life is too short not to drink this once in your life!Jeb Dunnuck | 100 JDJaboulet’s Hermitage La Chapelle 1961, 1978 and 1990 are considered to be among the greatest wines ever made in the Rhône Valley. The 1990 was sourced from Les Bessards, Le Méal and Les Rocoules, with the vines at the time between 40 and 60 years old. The grapes were hand-harvested, destemmed and macerated for three to four weeks, then matured in barrel for 15-18 months, 20% new wood. It’s still amazingly dark in colour, with an immediately intense, savoury expression on the nose reminiscent of beef stock. Dried roses and roasted beef bones come through on the medium- to full-bodied palate, but there’s also still fruit, not yet dried out at all. There’s a touch of mint on the finish and a prickle of furry tannins. This still has a good sense of density and drive - an extraordinary wine with a reputation that’s fully deserved. Drinking Window 2019 - 2050Decanter | 100 DECGorgeous aromas of dark berry, dried meat, dried berry, game, wet earth and licorice. Floral. Full body with a wonderful texture of dried fruits, spices and berries. Very dense and muscular with wonderful balance and length. Dense and intense. Blockbuster style.James Suckling | 98 JSAs expected from this ideal vintage, this ’90 is sensational. Inky in color and solidly anchored in its [i]terroir[n], it springs to life with a symphony of flavors, from mineral to wet earth and blackberry. Marvelous balance among fruit, acidity and smooth tannins. Delicious now, but can hold.--La Chapelle vertical. Drink now through 2025. 9,400 cases made.Wine Spectator | 97 WSRhȏne lovers were out in full force on this night. Sadly, I only got to taste a handful of the wines being passed around. Still, these were four of the greatest wines I have ever tasted. The 1990 La Chapelle held its own in this grouping, and then some. The purity of the fruit and the wine’s finish were mind-bending.Antonio Galloni | 96 AG

Also mature, yet with another level of texture and richness, the 1990 Hermitage is a profound effort that’s drinking perfectly. Voluptuous, yet classy and still refined, with awesome cassis and blackberry fruit, flowers, rose petal and hints of rendered bacon fat, it is full-bodied, textured and layered on the palate, with no hard edges and killer length on the finish. This beauty makes lights go off in my head, and as with the ’91, I’d drink bottles over the coming 4-5 years or so.Located in the tiny village of Mauves, just south of Hermitage, lies one of the true bastilles of traditionally made wines, and there are few vinous experiences that surpass getting to taste through the different terroirs of Hermitage and Saint Joseph in Chave’s cellar. Founded in 1481, Chave has seen a long succession of generations, with Gerard Chave, who was born in 1935, slowly beginning to hand over the reins to his brilliant son, Jean-Louis (born in 1968), in the late 1980s and early 1990s. Today, the estate stays firmly planted in tradition, yet is far from resting on its laurels or reputation, completing work on a new cellar (just across the street from their existing cellar and connected via a tunnel) in 2014, and working hard on a number of new vineyard sites. While this new cellar includes a state-of-the-art lab, Jean-Louis was quick to point out, “you don’t need a lab to make great wine.” In addition, and along with the help of Jean-Louis’ wife, Erin Cannon-Chave, they’ve continued to grow their negociant label, Chave Selection, which offers fabulous bang-for-the-buck and includes both Northern and Southern Rhones. While Jean-Louis has a professor-like level of expertise with regards to Hermitage, today his passion is firmly directed at the steep slopes on the western side of the Rhone River, in the appellation of Saint Joseph. He has numerous new vineyards coming on-line, and while everything is currently blended into his estate Saint-Joseph, each of the individual terroirs are incredibly unique, and I’m sure will be bottled on their own sometime in the future. With more and more of Hermitage going to larger corporations these days, it’s inspiring to see this small, family owned estate still sitting near the top of the hierarchy. Jean-Louis is still young (and has a young son who takes after him, and a daredevil daughter who takes after Erin), so the future is very bright at this estate! Looking specifically at their Hermitage, the Chaves vinify each of their individual terroirs separately, and the components are all aged in small barrels before blending and bottling without being filtered. As is the norm in Hermitage, everything is completely destemmed, and the percentage of new oak is kept to a minimum, falling in the 20-30% range. The style here is beautifully transparent, with the wines always showing the vintage characteristics clearly (which Jean-Louis breaks into a “Granite” year, or a “Sun” year). In addition, when tasted as individual components, each plot’s characteristics always shine through. While the wines have the balance and purity to dish out plenty of pleasure in their youth, they age beautifully, with Jean-Louis recommending at least 15 years of cellaring for most vintages.Robert Parker | 99 RPThe 1990 Hermitage is fully mature yet holding beautifully. Perfumed notes of sweet cassis and blackberry fruits, rose hips, smoked meats, and exotic spices all flow to a full-bodied, layered, seamless, flawlessly balanced Hermitage that glides over the palate with no sensation of weight or heaviness. With resolved tannins, beautiful purity, and a great finish, it’s unquestionably ready to go, yet should hold nicely for another 8-10 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 99 JDThis still very rich and alluring, with a core of dark roasted plum, black currant and blackberry fruit that still has an unctuous feel. There are additional floral and black tea notes, flashes of bergamot and clove, and a lingering tarry edge that supports the finish. Still throws a long shadow. Going in, I would have picked this as the wine to beat from the older vintages, but the ’91 prevails in overall grace.—Non-blind Chave vertical (June 2012). Drink now through 2020. 2,500 cases made.Wine Spectator | 98 WSChave’s 1990 Hermitage is simply magnificent from the moment it is poured. A dark, translucent ruby, the 1990 hits the palate with a rush of bold red-fleshed fruits. Hints of herb, smoke, cedar, dried flowers, tobacco and leather open up with time in the glass, but above all else, the 1990 is superbly polished and silky, with exceptional balance and an alluring, sensual personality that makes it nearly impossible to put the glass down. This is an especially fine bottle of the 1990 and a real thrill to drink. It simply does not get too much better than this. Readers lucky enough to own well-stored bottles can look forward to another 15-20 years of pure pleasure.Antonio Galloni | 97 AG(Hermitage- Domaine Jean-Louis Chave) The 1990 Chave, in notable contrast to the ’90 La Chapelle, is a brilliant bottle of wine. There was a time four or five years ago when this vintage of Chave seemed to have a little bit of pruniness developing, but with further bottle age the wine has snapped back into focus and offers a stunningly pure and transcendental aromatic profile. The majestic bouquet soars from the glass in a mélange of black raspberries, cassis, black olives, hot stones, tobacco smoke, earth and a touch of La Mission-like chipotle pepper. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, pure and minerally, with fine focus, great depth in the mid-palate, ripe tannins, solid acidity, and great length and grip on the profound finish. This is only a few years away from its absolute apogee, but it should drink at its peak for at least another three decades. A great Chave (Drink between 2010-2040).John Gilman | 96+ JG

One of the treats when tasting through the profound Côte Rôties made by Marcel Guigal was the opportunity to taste all of the bottled 1995’s. Reviewed in previous issues, they are even better from bottle than they were during their upbringing (a characteristic of many Guigal wines). The 1995 Côte Rôtie la Landonne is the stuff of legends and is every bit as compelling as readers might expect. This single vineyard wine will have at least 2 decades of longevity.Robert Parker | 99 RPDeep ruby-red. More sauvage aromas of black raspberry, blueberry, tar, mocha, minerals, mace and roasted game. Superconcentrated and powerful, with a near-solid texture. One of those rare wines that seems almost too big for the mouth. Finishes with huge, toothfurring-but-ripe tannins and great persistence.Vinous Media | 97 VMA full-bodied Syrah in an international-style that’s complex and seductive, layered with cinnamon, toasted oak, plum, game, smoke, mineral and black fruit flavors. Turns massively tannic on the finish. Balanced and elegant despite the obvious richness, it’s tempting on release, but needs a bit of time to tame the tannins. Drink now through 2015. 1,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

The 1995 Hermitage, on the other hand, is totally sublime. Rose petal, black pepper, dried flowers and sage are some of the many Syrah-inflected aromas that blossom in the glass in a perfumed, sensual wine that captivates all of the senses. With just six people at the table, there is plenty of wine to go around. This is a dazzling showing.Antonio Galloni | 97 AGI’ve always loved the 1995 Hermitage, which has a masculine, mineral-drenched style that shows the class and structure of this terroir brilliantly while still carrying plenty of fruit and texture. Lots of cassis and dark fruits, crushed granite, wild herbs, and leather notes all define the bouquet, and it’s medium to full-bodied, perfectly balanced, and has a finish that keeps you coming back to the glass. This is a fabulous, majestic Hermitage to enjoy over the coming decade or so.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDA step up and showing more minerality, structure and length, with a masculine style, the 1995 Hermitage is drinking beautifully today. Described as disappointing by Jean-Louis over the past 5 years or so, it appears to be opening up and possesses fabulous, liquid rock-like qualities to go with cassis, blackberry and wild herbs. Medium to full-bodied, fabulously textured, rich and stretching out nicely on the finish, enjoy this beauty over the coming decade.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RP(Hermitage- Domaine Jean-Louis Chave) I bought a case of Chave Hermitage in every top vintage between 1988 and 1997, but given how much I loved these wines, the only ones that still remain un-drunk in my cellar are the 1988 and 1995, as they proved a bit sturdy out of the blocks and did not allow the same early accessibility that led so many good 1990s and 1991s (not to mention the utterly seductive 1997) to the dining table far before their time. But, though I drank most of these wines before they were really at their apogees, I have fond memories of each and every one! This most recent bottle of the 1995 Chave Hermitage was showing utterly classical in profile and starting to really blossom completely on the palate, offering up a pure and complex bouquet of cassis, pepper, a hint of red plum, leather, roasted game, a terrific base of stony soil tones and topnotes of violets and lavender. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and really opens up very nicely with a bit of time in decanter, with a superb core, outstanding focus and grip and a long, modestly tannic and tangy finish. I loved the less-extracted style of Chave Hermitage back in this era and the 1995 is one of the last of that genre. (Drink between 2017-2050).John Gilman | 96 JGThis still has a surprising amount of flesh, with lively plum skin, dried cherry, macerated red currant and blood orange notes draped around the structure. Singed cedar flashes through the finish along with a rooibos tea note. This is supple and suave. Beautiful.—Non-blind Chave vertical (June 2012). Drink now through 2020. 2,330 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

Conservatively, the 2009 Ermitage l’Ermite (702 cases) needs 25-30 years of cellaring. Another monumental effort from Michel Chapoutier, it possesses copious notes of smoky asphalt, black truffles, pen ink, graphite and blackberry liqueur intermixed with hints of flowers and crushed rocks. Extremely full-bodied with abundant sweet tannins, amazing penetration on the palate and a long finish, this historic effort should age effortlessly for 50-100+ years.As I have written many times, all of these wines are produced from rigidly cultivated, bio-dynamically managed vineyards. That has been the rule since Michel Chapoutier first took over this firm in the late 1980s. Now, with over 20 years of biodynamic viticulture under his belt, Chapoutier remains committed to this rather radical style of organic farming. He believes the effect is to reduce rot in damp, rainy vintages. Moreover, he has observed that after 10 to 15 years of biodynamic farming, the natural acids tend to be more vivid and the overall pH of the soils (as well as the wines) has dropped. Controversial, outspoken and brutally candid, Chapoutier, who suffers no fools, continues to admirably produce wines that are among the finest in the world and potentially the longest lived. Refusing to acidify, chaptalize, or touch the wines in any way, he clearly wants every wine to capture the very essence of its terroir and vintage personality. In this, he succeeds remarkably. No one has made more effort in resurrecting the once-forgotten backwater appellation of St.-Peray than Michel Chapoutier. Working in conjunction with the famed Michelin three-star restaurant family, the Pics, Chapoutier has produced a sensational 2010 Gamme Pic and Chapoutier St.-Peray, and the first single-vineyard St.-Peray, the 2010 Lieu-Dit Peyrolles St.-Peray, which is one of the greatest St.-Perays I have ever tasted. This appellation is all steep hillside vineyards planted in pure, decomposed granite soils, not dissimilar from Hermitage, but they are located on the other side of the Rhone, facing the city of Valence. The single-vineyard wines, or selections parcellaires, 2010 whites are absolutely amazing, with production levels ranging from 300 to 700 or 800 cases of each cuvee. These wines are for true connoisseurs, as they are expensive and meant for long, long evolutions, but they capture the essence of a vintage and terroir as well as any wines in the world. As for the selections parcellaires of 2010 reds, Chapoutier likes this vintage almost as much as 2009, but feels it is very different, emphasizing more acidity and minerality, whereas 2009 is a combination of pure power, concentration and great potential longevity. Michel Chapoutier considers the 2009s, which are all in bottle, to be among the greatest wines he has ever produced, equaling his finest wines of 2006, 2003, 1999, 1990 and 1989 (his debut year).Robert Parker | 98+ RPThis has a taut feel still, with an almost searing iron edge, but there’s plenty of flesh in reserve, with plum compote, cherry pâte de fruit and anise notes that slowly fill in on the lengthy finish. Offers lots of grip too as this slowly unwinds with air, letting its iron edge stretch out even more. There’s terrific spine and cut, with very impressive length. Best from 2016 through 2036. 702 cases made, 40 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 98 WSSeemingly the most structured and traditional of the Ermitages, the 2009 M. Chapoutier Ermitage l’Ermite comes from 80+ year-old vines and is 100% destemmed Syrah that’s aged in a combination of new and 1-year-old barrels. It possesses an absolutely brilliant array of black raspberries, smoke, graphite, mineral, and assorted floral characteristics on the nose, and this is followed up by a full-bodied, structured, dense, and layered Syrah that has masses of ripe tannin, gorgeous precision and focus, and a blockbuster finish. As with the Le Pavillon, this needs a decade or more in the cellar, and will have an incredibly long life ahead of it.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDBright purple. Explosive aromas of candied red fruits, potpourri and incense, with a medicinal nuance adding complexity. Stains the palate with intense raspberry and bitter cherry flavors lifted by smoky mineraity. Becomes spicier and deeper with air and finishes with superb clarity and lingering florality. By all means allow this to rest for at least another five years.Vinous Media | 94+ VM

Tasting like the concentrated blood from an aged and grilled strip steak, the 2010 Ermitage Le Pavillon boasts a black/purple color along with creme de cassis, camphor, pen ink, white flower and lead pencil shaving characteristics in its massive, full-bodied personality. It almost defies description because of its ethereal concentration and off-the-charts extract levels. This is not for the faint of heart, or those who lack patience, as it will require 10-15 years of bottle age, and, as previously stated, will keep for 50 or more. There are just over 1,000 cases of the 2010 Le Pavillon, another perfect wine in the constellation of profound wines produced by Michel Chapoutier.In November of this year, Michel Chapoutier finally made the cover of The Wine Spectator. The accompanying article said essentially the same things I had written about over twenty years ago. More importantly, I am thrilled that Chapoutier received this attention because it has long been deserved. History will record that Michel Chapoutier is a revolutionary. He is also a highly emotional man whose infectious love of primitive art, historic books, classical music and, of course, terroir and winemaking are seemingly impossible to harness. Michel Chapoutier was among the first in France to embrace the radical biodynamic agricultural teachings, for which he was initially criticized, but is now praised. He was also the first to print all his labels in Braille, something that cynics considered to be a gimmick, but ask the National Association for the Blind what they think. Coming from a famous family, but moving in a direction unlike any of its previous members, Michel Chapoutier is self-taught. What he has accomplished over the last two decades or more is one of the great wine stories of the modern era. With all his outgoing, boisterous, machine-gun-speed prose that can sometimes sound shockingly cocky, and at other times reminiscent of the famous Lebanese poet Khalil Gibran, there is never a dull moment around Chapoutier., who makes comments such as “Filtering wine is like making love with a condom,” and “Acidifying wine is like putting a suit of armor on the vineyard’s terroir, vintage character and the cepage.” Don’t blame him if his brilliant intellect and shocking vocabulary put his visitors on the defensive. Michel Chapoutier has proven through his genius, the faith of his convictions and backbreaking attention to detail in his vineyards and in the winery that a once moribund negociant (yet with significant vineyard holdings) could become a beacon of inspiration and quality for the entire world. In short, every wine consumer in the world should admire his accomplishments. All of Chapoutier’s lower level 2010 whites and basic reds have long been sold out, so to keep the tasting somewhat limited during my visit, we focused on the more recently released 2010 white and red selections parcellaires and nearly all the 2011s. As for the 2010 selection parcellaire whites, they are spectacular. Le Pavillon, once called Rochefine and owned by Jaboulet-Verchere, consists of 10 acres of pure granite in the famed Les Bessards, which is considered by many to be the single greatest terroir of Hermitage. The Ermitage Le Pavillon, which is meant to age for 50+ years, is Michel Chapoutier’s legacy, and he is confident that history will support his belief in this extraordinary wine. Michel Chapoutier is not alone in believing the 2011s may resemble a more modern day version of 1991. That vintage was largely underrated by just about everybody (except yours truly) because all the accolades and hyperbole were largely bestowed on both 1989 and 1990 (deservedly), but in the Northern Rhone 1991 turned out to be a strikingly superb vintage for Cote Rotie, Hermitage, Cornas and Condrieu. In the Southern Rhone, the vintage was largely a disaster. Following is an overview of what to expect with the inexpensive 2011 whites and reds. Most of these wines do not have the weight, power or tannic structure of the 2010s, but they are by no means diluted or wimpish wines. They tend to be charming, fruit-forward and seductive, and thus may be preferred by consumers looking for immediate gratification. Although the first few wines reviewed are Southern Rhones, they need to be covered because they are in bottle, and I did not review them in issue 203. Along with several other producers, Michel Chapoutier has helped increase the world’s attention to the long-forgotten, microscopic appellation of St.-Peray. Chapoutier produces a bevy of St.-Perays under his own name as well as in partnership with two three-star chefs, Sophie Pic, of the Restaurant Pic in Valence (as well as several culinary branches in Paris and Lausanne, Switzerland), and Yannick Alleno, the brilliant chef at the Hotel Le Meurice’s in Paris. The red 2011 selections parcellaires are already fruit-forward and seductive. Readers should love them as they are much more evolved than the more structured, powerful, dense, tannic 2010s.Robert Parker | 100 RP(M Chapoutier, Le Pavillon, Hermitage, Rhône, France, Red) Sometimes the setting in which you taste a wine helps to fix it in your mind. I tasted this at the Chapel of Saint Christopher on the hill of Hermitage, looking down over the vineyards - a magical spot at the best of times. I was expecting this to be quite closed and introspective, but it’s already unfurling, and beginning its first drinking window, quite mature in colour, open and ready for business. It has a beautifully aromatic nose, complex notes of plum, blackberry, glove leather, black olive tapenade and a little hedgerow. Very fresh and alive. Great impact and concentration on the palate, remarkably saline, very intense, but so lively and vivid. Texturally it’s velvety, saline, bright and pixelated. Long finish. A hugely complex and dynamic wine, the spirit of Hermitage. (Drink between 2020-2034)Decanter | 99 DECDensely packed, with zesty loganberry, blueberry coulis, plum skin and blackberry paste flavors, presenting a hefty backdrop of ganache and graphite that takes over on the very long finish. A lovely alder note echoes in the background. Best from 2018 through 2028. 43 cases imported. — JMWine Spectator | 97 WSInky purple. Heady, exotically perfumed aromas of ripe dark berries, candied flowers, Indian spices and cracked pepper. Stains the palate with intense blackberry and boysenberry flavors, picking up a sweet violet pastille note with aeration. Dense but lively and strikingly precise given its concentration. Shows superb finishing energy and focus, closing with amazing length and slow-building, harmonious tannins. This wine is built for the long haul; I wouldn’t touch it for at least another decade.Vinous Media | 96 VM

The 2011 Ermitage l’Ermite is a killer Hermitage that offers a huge bouquet of thick crème de cassis and black raspberry fruits as well as the classic minerality, graphite, and licorice notes this cuvée always shows. Full-bodied, dense, and concentrated on the palate, it’s a glorious effort that’s still moderately backward and tannic yet is just now starting to round the corner. It’s going to be very long lived, especially for a 2011.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDThe opaque black/purple-tinged 2011 Ermitage l’Ermite offers a combination of crushed stones, creme de cassis, blackberry liqueur, barbecue smoke and roasted meats. It is a powerful, slightly austere, backward effort that will need 5-6 years of bottle age after its release next year. It may turn out to be a 30-50-year wine in a vintage that made relatively forward wines. In that sense, it is an outlier in this vintage.Robert Parker | 95-98 RPOpaque ruby. An explosively perfumed bouquet features blackberry, cassis, cola, potpourri and smoky Indian spices. Broad, concentrated and alluringly sweet, with pliant dark fruit and violet pastille flavors showing wonderful depth as well as purity and vivacity. Bright mineral and spice notes accent the long, penetrating finish, which is firmed by silky, harmonious tannins.Vinous Media | 94 VM

The 2012 Côte Rôtie La Mouline reminds me of the 2011 with its upfront, incredibly perfumed nose of spring flowers, cured meats, roasted herbs, olives and sweet cassis fruit. Full-bodied, beautifully textured, mouth-filling and already impossible to resist, it expands on the palate and I guarantee this beauty will put a smile on your face anytime over the coming two decades.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThis has a brooding feel, with layers of warm tobacco leaf, roasted alder and juniper, and sweet tapenade leading the way, backed by a dense core of macerated plum, black currant and raspberry fruit. The long, smoldering finish shows terrific latent grip. Best from 2018 through 2030. 415 cases made, 60 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSSuper peppery, very, very concentrated and immaculately fragrant Côte-Rôtie here. There’s plenty of oak in the mix, too. It shows entrancing brown-spice aromas across red plums and darker black fruits. The palate’s layered, smooth and supple, pitching concentrated flavors against precise, dense and very powerful tannin. Finishes on a smooth edge as its softens slightly, leaving a trail of spiced-custard and dark-plum flavors. Exceptional wine. Drink 2020-2030.James Suckling | 95 JSLurid ruby. Heady, intensely perfumed aromas of red fruit preserves, incense, smoky minerals and lavender, accompanied by an Asian spice flourish that builds as the wine opens up. Stains the palate with sweet, seamless raspberry liqueur, spicecake and floral pastille flavors that are lifted and given spine by core of juicy acidity. Puts on weight and spreads out slowly on the strikingly long and precise finish, which features resonating mineral and floral notes.Vinous Media | 94 VM

One of the legendary vintages for this cuvée is the 2017 Côte Rôtie La Turque, a blend of 93% Syrah and 7% Viognier from a tiny parcel in the Côte Brune lieu-dit. Always aged 4 years in new French oak, it offers a dense, saturated purple color as well as slightly more masculine notes of blackberries, smoked meats, dark chocolate, and graphite. Full-bodied, beautifully concentrated, and perfectly balanced, with incredible purity of fruit, it already offers pleasure but will ideally be given 5-7 years of bottle age. It will deliver the goods for 30 to 40 years. It’s the star of the show in 2017 and one of the wines of the vintage.Jeb Dunnuck | 100 JDA common refrain regarding the La-Las is that they require a decade or more of cellaring to come around. In fact, they’re often quite open and appealing soon after release, only to close down shortly thereafter. The 2017 Cote Rotie La Turque offers up hints of crushed stone and struck flint, smoky, bacon-fat aromas and ripe, mouthwatering blackberries. Full-bodied, creamy and rich, it’s a powerful, concentrated effort that should still be drinking well in two decades.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97+ RPYou can almost smell the fresh clay, immediately a different register compared to La Mouline with star anise, incense notes and rolling tobacco as opposed to cigarette tobacco. Rounded, fuller and plumper with more mouthcoating tannins and touches of vanilla pod from the oak.. The fruit is sweeter and juicier than the Mouline and this has a long, sappy finish with plentiful tannin but still elegant. (Drink between 2024-2038)Decanter | 97 DECVery alluring, with silky waves of cherry puree and mulled plum fruit gliding through, infused gently with red tea, savory and sweet tapenade hints. Lingering minerality carries the finish, which has structure and grip to merit cellaring, though the fruit is so hard to resist.Wine Spectator | 96 WSExpansive aromas of black raspberry, cherry and boysenberry, with exotic spice, floral oil and incense notes building in the glass. Energetic and focused on the palate, offering densely packed black/blue fruit liqueur flavors, along with intense violet pastille and cracked pepper notes. The floral quality builds steadily with air and carries through a very long, chewy finish that features resonating blue fruit and floral notes and youthfully gripping tannins.Vinous Media | 95-96 VM

Bottled in February of 2021, the 2017 Côte Rôtie La Mouline is a seamless, exotic, perfumed, full-bodied effort that offers a classic floral character in its ripe black raspberry and blackberry fruit as well as notes of spice box, espresso, and chocolate. Co-fermented with roughly 10% Viognier, it’s all about gorgeous fruit and texture, and this cuvée has that rare ability to bring incredible richness and depth with no sensation of weight or heaviness. It needs 4-5 years of bottle age and will keep for 20-25 years. This reminds me slightly of the 2011 as well as the 2007.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JD(E Guigal, La Turque, Syrah / Shiraz, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France, Red) You can almost smell the fresh clay, immediately a different register compared to La Mouline with star anise, incense notes and rolling tobacco as opposed to cigarette tobacco. Rounded, fuller and plumper with more mouthcoating tannins and touches of vanilla pod from the oak.. The fruit is sweeter and juicier than the Mouline and this has a long, sappy finish with plentiful tannin but still elegant. (Drink between 2024-2038)Decanter | 97 DECThe 2017 Cote Rotie La Mouline has developed quickly and is already approachable—although I wouldn’t be surprised to see it close down shortly, only to emerge even better a decade from now. Complex, charming scents of jasmine, sandalwood, raspberries and stone fruit appear on the nose, while the full-bodied palate is silky-textured, with a long, plush finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPHighly perfumed, expansive aromas of cherry and blueberry liqueur, incense, exotic spices and vanilla, plus a bright mineral overtone that builds in the glass. Youthful, palate-staining red and blue fruit flavors show superb depth as well as energy, and a core of juicy acidity adds support and back-end cut. Finishes with building floral and spice nuances, gentle tannic grip and a resonating mineral note.Vinous Media | 96-97 VM Racy-edged and still a bit coiled up, this has a core of dark cherry and currant fruit that has melded nicely with singed alder, tobacco and sanguine notes. Flashes of chocolate and espresso crema add a more taciturn edge to the finish, but time should bring that into the fold, as this has superior length and drive for cellaring.Wine Spectator | 96 WS

The beautifully proportioned 2018 Hermitage La Chapelle comes across as a complex, complete version of this renowned bottling, with no rough edges—just moderate spice, cassis, red berries and cedar on the nose. It’s medium to full-bodied, silky and fine, brimming with harmony and elegance on the palate, while the finish is long, echoing with cassis, charcoal and crushed stone. The tannins firm up a bit on the finish, so I suspect this will close down soon, then blossom sometime after 2025.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98+ RPAs I wrote last year from barrel, the 2018 Hermitage La Chapelle is a backward, primordial Hermitage built for the ages. Incredible crème de cassis, blueberries, scorched earth, burning embers, and liquid violet-like aromas and flavors dominate the bouquet, and this beauty is full-bodied, concentrated, and powerful on the palate. With just hints of the smoky, meaty, beefy character that emerges from all aged examples of this cuvée, it has incredible tannins, perfect balance, and a monster of a finish. Don’t think about touching bottles for at least 7-8 years, and it’s going to keep for 50 years or more.Jeb Dunnuck | 98+ JDOpaque ruby. Displays powerful, highly perfumed aromas of black/blue fruit preserves, licorice, cola, baking spices and potpourri, along with an exotic suggestion of incense. Utterly stains the palate with intense blackberry, cherry, cassis, floral pastille and spicecake flavors that deliver a suave blend of weight and energy. Youthfully solid tannins add shape and grip to an extremely long, mineral- and floral-accented finish that shows outstanding clarity and dark fruit thrust.Vinous Media | 96 VMSeems a little shy at the moment, but you can tell that this has serious poise and pedigree with subtle clove, crushed-brick, iron, black-cherry and plum-skin character. It’s full-bodied, yet very tight and reserved with super refined tannins that are so fine-textured, yet intense. Give this three or four years to show its true self. From organically grown grapes. Better after 2023.James Suckling | 96 JSJust 15% new oak, but it is nonetheless quite noticeable (though should harmonise in time) with good rich, berry fruit underneath. Full-bodied, very in fact - real weight here. Alcohol feels somewhat out of balance, and the tannic weight is massive. Feels a touch over-extracted and heavy on the palate, it lacks the lightness of touch of the 2016. There is a good sense of textural finesse however, ending with firm, chewy, slightly drying tannins that will need a good decade to soften. Drinking Window 2030 - 2042.Decanter | 92 DEC

A more reductive, meaty, backward effort than normal, the 2018 Saint Joseph Les Granits is all Syrah that comes from unquestionably one of the top terroirs in Saint-Joseph. It was vinified in concrete tanks and aged in a mix of barrels and demi-muids, 20% being new. It blossoms with air and reveals an almost Hermitage-like class and minerality, with killer crème de cassis and black raspberry fruits supported by loads of smoked game, saddle leather, crushed stone, barbecue smoke, garrigue, and violet-like aromas and flavors. Just incredible on the palate as well, with medium to full-bodied richness, awesome tannins, and a liquid rock-like minerality, this tour de force from Saint-Joseph ranks with the finest vintage of this cuvée ever made and matches the 2015, although it shows a very different style. It should be snatched up by readers. It will need 3-5 years of bottle age and will drink brilliantly over the following 20 years or more.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDA very fine-tuned wine, super sleek and refined, with cassis, plum puree and cherry coulis notes streaming through, inlaid seamlessly with a bright mineral edge and all set against a floral and red tea backdrop. The long finish ripples with subtle energy. Drink now through 2038. 57 cases imported. Wine Spectator | 95 WSCrushed stone, cracked pepper and ripe blueberries appear on the nose of the 2018 Saint-Joseph Les Granits. Black olives show up on the palate, adding a welcome savory note. Atypically full-bodied and velvety, I expect more structure to emerge with time.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPAssertively perfumed, spice-accented dark berry liqueur, floral pastille and smoky mineral scents show fine delineation and a hint of olive. Sappy and expansive on the palate, offering plush boysenberry and black raspberry flavors that deepen and become sweeter through the midpalate. Deftly blends richness and energy and finishes impressively long and floral, with smooth tannins and an echoing mineral note.Vinous Media | 93-95 VMPretty and pure berry fruits with a little smoky backbone. A very rounded and generous style, not as straight as some vintages but good tannic precision and grip, very granitic, very fine, fibrous, muscular tannins. A little touch of bitterness on the long finish. Drinking Window 2019 - 2025.Decanter | 93 DEC

Tasting like the 2015, yet with perhaps slightly more elegance, the 2018 Côte Rôtie La Turque reveals a saturated purple color as well as blockbuster notes of crème de cassis, white flowers, candle wax, graphite, and spiced meats. It’s a huge, full-bodied, blockbuster styled effort as well as another magical wine in the making.Jeb Dunnuck | 98-100 JDDark violet. Deeply perfumed black and blue fruit aromas, along with suggestions of Moroccan spices, potpourri, olive and smoky minerals. Densely packed cassis, bitter cherry and violet pastille flavors show excellent definition and are underscored by a vein of juicy acidity. The mineral and floral notes repeat on a wonderfully long and subtly chewy finish that’s shaped by dusty, steadily building tannins.Vinous Media | 97 VMShut down tight on this occasion, the dark, impenetrable 2018 Cote Rotie La Turque is clearly dense and packed with potential. Cedary notes, dark, concentrated fruit, potent tannins and a long, dusty finish suggest plenty of upside for the patient.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94-96+ RP

While not submitted to my tasting (and it wasn’t presented from barrel last year), it would be hard to imagine there won’t be a Les Vieilles Fontaines cuvée. Don’t miss a chance to buy a bottle if you find one. Moving to the 2018 Cornas Les Vieilles Vignes, this beauty is cut from the same cloth as the Les Chailles yet is deeper and richer, with another level of concentration. Black and blue fruits, ground pepper, violets, smoked game, and loads of spring flower notes define the bouquet, and it has a vibrant, almost old school vibe that carries plenty of power yet still stays light and elegant on the palate. This beautiful, singular wine is open and enjoyable today, yet I wouldn’t be surprised to see it close down with a year or two of bottle age. It should see its 20th birthday in fine form.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDThe 2018 Cornas Vieilles Vignes blends fruit from some of the top lieux-dits of the appellation: Combe, Patou, La Côte, Les Mazards and Chaillot. Aged 20 months in approximately 15% new oak, it’s a dark, inky-hued wine, but one that retains bright, fresh fruit notes of red raspberries and plums alongside hints of cedar and menthol. It’s full-bodied and concentrated on the palate, with a firm, granitic structure and sense of restraint, fine-grained, almost silky tannins and tremendous length.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPOpaque ruby. An exotically perfumed bouquet displays powerful aromas of black and blue fruit preserves, incense, peony and olive paste. Palate-staining blackberry, boysenberry, fruitcake and floral pastille flavors deepen steadily on the back half. Gains weight and sweetness with air, finishing with a jolt of smoky minerality, sneaky tannins and outstanding persistence.Vinous Media | 95 VMThyme and pine needles behind the blackberry and raspberry fruit. Has some depth and weight on the mid-palate, along with a dense lattice of ripe tannin. Acidity is well balanced, there’s a good sense of freshness and drive through the palate. Longer and deeper than most 2018 Cornas. Great saline beam through the wine holding up the very ripe fruit. Seductively drinkable now, but will age longer than most. Vines with an average age of 60 years on lieux-dits Combe, Patou, La Côte, Les Mazards et Chaillot. 20% whole bunch, fermented in stainless steel, matured for 18 months in barriques, 20% new.Decanter | 95 DECDark and winey, with lots of steeped black cherry, plum and blackberry fruit forming the core while light sweet tapenade, rosemary and mineral notes streak through on the finish. Vivid, energetic Cornas. Best from 2022 through 2036. 1,350 cases made, 128 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

Bottled late in 2020, the 2018 Cornas is another exceptional vintage for this cuvée, drawn from the family’s older vines, largely in the lieux-dits of La Côte, Sabarotte and Reynard. Yes, it’s from a hot, sunny vintage, it’s rich and ripe, with plenty of red plum fruit up front, but there’s a solid underpinning of crushed stone to provide balance. Full-bodied and velvety in feel in the mouth, it lingers elegantly on the lengthy finish. Complete, balanced and fine, it should drink well through at least 2040.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe 2018 Cornas is a classic wine from this renowned estate that’s 100% Syrah, mostly from the Reynard lieu-dit, brought up all in ancient foudre and casks. This is as classic and old school as they come, and the 2018 is as Clape as it gets with its bloody blue fruits, liquid violet, smoked game, pepper, bay leaf, and iron-like aromas and flavors. More medium to full-bodied on the palate, it doesn’t have the sheer richness of the 2015 or 2017, and if anything, reminds me slightly of the 2016 with its incredible purity, balance, and finesse. The structure and tannins, which were more up-front and present from barrel, have a more round, seamless feel that gives this some up-front appeal. Granted, I followed this bottle for multiple days, and it certainly benefited from lots of air. This is a vintage that could certainly continue to offer pleasure over the coming decade and never really shut down, yet I suspect this will firm up quickly over the coming 2-4 years and require at least a decade of bottle age to really show its true potential. I promise, you will not be disappointed to have this in your cellar.Jeb Dunnuck | 97+ JDBlueberry and liquorice on the nose at this stage, there’s a little touch of acetone that is typical of Clape, along with some thyme and rosemary. Full-bodied, but not massive, this has plenty of immediate impact and drive, it really packs a punch on the finish. Powerful ingrained acidity drives the wine forward, as does an inner salinity and ripe but sharply pointed tannins. Ripe and approachable for Clape but still very Cornas, this is delicious now, but will reward cellaring too. Harvest started on the 12th of September. No destemming as usual, fermented in concrete, aged in large old oak barrels.Decanter | 97 DECRemarkably fresh nose, considering that August 2018 was so hot in the Rhone. Stunning aromas of bitter chocolate and perfectly ripe wild blackberries. I love the generous but not expansive body, where there’s a sensational interplay of fine tannins and mineral freshness that drive the very long and exciting finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 97 JSSaturated ruby. Ripe, spice-accented blackcurrant, kirsch, olive paste, candied flowers and smoked meat on the expansive nose. Offers deeply pitched black and blue fruit, exotic spice, olive and licorice flavors and a strong mineral underpinning. Steadily building tannins add shape and grip to an impressively long, smoky finish that emphatically repeats the floral and mineral notes.Vinous Media | 96 VM

Moving to the three Cornas releases, the 2018 Cornas is brilliant and certainly in the same ballpark as the 2016 and 2017. Lots of red and blue fruits, smoked earth, graphite, iron, violets, and gamey notes define this full-bodied Cornas. With ample tannins, fabulous balance, and a big finish, it’s going to need 4-5 years of bottle age at a minimum yet should drink fabulously well over the following 15 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDDeep ruby. Displays expressive cherry and dark berry scents, along with suggestions of cracked pepper, cola and botanical herbs. A floral note emerges with air carries onto the palate, which offers pliant black and blue fruit flavors that turn spicier through the back half. Finishes long, spicy and smooth, with well-knit tannins lending gentle grip.Vinous Media | 93 VMMichel’s 2018 Cornas is surprisingly drinkable, although it will surely age well for at least another decade. Scents of crushed stone and subtle cedar shadings accent red plums and cherries on the nose, while the medium to full-bodied palate is streamlined and focused, smooth and dusty on the long finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RP

Only made in top vintages, the 2018 Cornas Mère Michel is a tribute to Johann’s wife and a play on the French song "La Mere Michelle." Brought up in a new demi-muid, it’s a richer, broader wine compared to the Cuvée Jana yet still has incredible Cornas style in its red, black, and blue fruits as well as notes of toasted spice, roasted meat, chocolate, and wild herbs. Rich, full-bodied, and opulent, it has a touch more upfront appeal and should be drinkable in just 4-5 years yet also evolve for two decades.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDThis is a serious wine, it’s powerful and full bodied but not excessive, very ripe but not overripe without relying on extraction. It’s fresh, deeply saline and mineral with elaborate, detailed aromatics. The fruit is intense, matching the oak without being swamped by it, underpinned by serrated, edgy tannins and a very long finish. Selection massale planted in 2011 on lieu-dit Les Côtes, south-facing at 230m altitude. No destemming, aged in new demi-muids for 16 months.Decanter | 96 DEC

The 2018 Côte Rôtie La Belle Hélène has closed up slightly since release, and while it’s more concentrated than the 2017, it doesn’t have the blockbuster style of the 2015 and comes closest in style to the 2009 with its sunny, exotic, incredibly impressive style. Ripe black fruits, smoky oak, smoked meats, truffle, and lead pencil notes emerge on the nose. These carry to a full-bodied, rich, powerful 2018 with ultra-fine tannins, beautiful purity, and flawless overall balance. It’s young yet already showing remarkable complexity and nuance and is an incredible drinking experience. However, it’s going to benefit from 4-5 years of bottle age and will be a 30- or 40-year wine.Jeb Dunnuck | 100 JDThe hugely concentrated and rich 2018 Cote Rotie La Belle Helene is even more impressive this year than last. Cedar and baking spices accent ripe blackberries on the nose, while the full-bodied palate is impressively velvety and textured. It’s maybe not as nuanced and charming as either the La Cote Blonde or Lancement bottlings but is impressive for its scale and power allied to a fine sense of balance.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98+ RPA showstopper, with extraordinary concentration, there is a lot to unpack here. Inky and dense, with plush black fruit and savory mineral energy dueling for the lead. Racy and muscular, with licorice and charred garrigue lining the powerful finish. Despite its weight, this boasts textural purity and approachability (though patience will be rewarded). Best from 2025 through 2045. 335 cases made, 35 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WSSaturated violet color. Powerful, mineral-accented aromas of ripe black and blue fruits, candied flowers, olive and exotic spices show superb clarity and a hint of smokiness. Alluringly sweet, chewy and sharply focused on the palate, offering deeply concentrated blackcurrant, bitter cherry and floral pastille flavors that show uncanny energy for their heft. A vibrant mineral note drives an extremely long, youthfully tannic finish that strongly echoes the floral and dark berry notes.Vinous Media | 96 VMThis is very complete, round and sweetly fruited. There is a great depth of fruit with a good mass of dense, juicy, chewy tannins but there is considerable alcohol in this vintage, and the acidity is on the low side. Great vinosity, lush and powerful with immense length. From the oldest vines from the Côte-Rozier, 100% whole bunch, 80-years-old, named after Stéphane’s mother.Decanter | 95 DEC

Inky ruby. Smoke- and mineral-tinged aromas of ripe red and dark berries, pipe tobacco, olive paste, incense and vanilla, with a suave floral note building in the glass. Youthfully chewy and expansive on the palate, offering intense black raspberry, bitter cherry, licorice, cola, candied violet and allspice flavors that tighten up and become sweeter on the back half. Finishes sappy and extremely long, with resonating florality and mounting tannins that add shape and a firm closing grip.Vinous Media | 98 VMOffers up gorgeous fruit, with creamed açaí and blueberry mixed with warmed cassis and a flash of dark plum, which holds center stage while licorice snap, violet, apple wood and sweet bay leaf accents fill in the background. Shows terrific grip through the finish, setting this up for a long life. Best from 2025 through 2040. 10 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WSA rich, more broad, opulent wine, the 2019 Ermitage Les Greffieux has lots of darker berry and cassis-like fruit as well as textbook Northern Rhône Syrah notes of pepper, bouquet garni, leather, and woodsmoke. I love its depth and richness on the palate, and it’s full-bodied and has beautiful balance, supple tannins, and a great finish. It already offers pleasure and will continue doing so for another 20-25 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThe creamy, almost lush 2019 Ermitage les Greffieux boasts knockout aromas of violets, crème de cassis and red raspberries. Full-bodied, yet fine and silky in feel, it’s a terrific example of this terroir, showing its hallmark accessibility and tremendous balance and elegance on the long finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPA distinct smoky vein running through this year. Powerful, very ripe, muscular but juicy with great freshness and power. The alcohol is slightly raised, but it’s such a big, impressive wine with very ripe, massy tannins. Drinking Window: 2028 - 2036Decanter | 96 DECIncredibly dense nose of elderberries with some raw meat and smoke. At least as massively structured as it is concentrated, this is almost too much to take at this early stage in its development, but the tannins are already beautifully integrated and all it needs is a couple of years in bottle to calm down a little. Very firm, stony finish that has so much energy. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Best after 2024.James Suckling | 96 JS

The extroverted 2019 Cote Rotie La Turque is about as impressive a young wine as I’ve tasted at Guigal, with extravagant, blossom-like aromas and oodles of cassis and blueberries. Full-bodied, it’s simultaneously concentrated and rich yet airy and almost weightless, an outrageous juxtaposition of characters that must be tasted to be understood.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98-100 RPI was blown away by the 2019 Côte Rôtie La Turque, which comes from a tiny parcel in the Côte Brune and is fermented with a touch of Viognier as well as a small amount of stems. It too has a smoky, meaty, gamey profile as well as full-bodied richness and tons of mid-palate depth and concentration. It’s another serious 2019 with structure to spare, remarkable purity, flawless balance, and a great finish. As usual, it’s not for the instant gratification crowd and is going to demand 10-15 years of bottle age.Jeb Dunnuck | 98-100 JDA big step up in quality from La Mouline this year, it’s deeply savoury with smoked meats on the nose at this stage. Full-bodied but not excessive, this is round and generous with tannins that are massy and ripe. The oak is robust and well judged and it ends very deep with a powerful, but lifted, saline finish. Great depth on show, very fine, it’s big but not excessive. On the Côte-Brune, planted by Marcel Guigal in 1980 (first vintage 1985) after having been abandoned since 1935. La Turque is a central part of Côte Brune, less than one hectare. At the beginning of its 42 months in new French oak barriques.Decanter | 97 DECBright and energetic on the intensely fragrant nose, displaying ripe black/blue fruit, vanilla and floral scents that pick up olive and exotic spice notes as the wine stretches out. In a powerful, fruit-driven style, offering appealingly sweet cherry, blackberry, mocha and allspice flavors, plus suggestions of licorice and cola. Finishes extremely long and smooth, with just a hint of fine-grained tannins and an assertive jolt of minerality.Vinous Media | 95-97 VM

Leading off the three single parcel releases, the 2019 Côte Rôtie La Mouline is an absolute blockbuster of a wine that has incredible depth, richness, and concentration while holding onto a rare sense of elegance, balance, and seamlessness. Incredible floral and orange blossom notes give way to more smoked game, tapenade, sweet black raspberries, and subtle vanilla. This full-bodied, utterly heavenly Côte Rôtie is more reserved and straight compared to the 2018, but it nevertheless already offers a huge amount of pleasure. It will hit maturity in 7-8 years (a decade will probably be better) and have 30+ years of overall longevity.Jeb Dunnuck | 100 JDThe 2019 Côte-Rôtie La Mouline is textural and concentrated, wafting from the glass with aromas of dark berries, spices, pepper, gentian and cedar, all framed by a delicate touch of oak. Full-bodied, broad and creamy, it’s enveloping and layered, built around a fleshy, deep core of fruit framed by sweet, powdery tannins, concluding with a long, perfumed and gently ethereal finish. This is a beautiful rendition of this emblematic cuvée.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPGreat nose of summer flowers and ripe blackberries with a glaze of toasty oak. A very graceful wine in spite of all the power and concentration. Feels almost weightless until you get to the finish where you feel the enormous structure that lurks just below the surface. A cuvee of 89% syrah and 11% viognier. Matured in 100% new oak for 42 months. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2019 Côte-Rôtie La Mouline bursts with juniper, black cherry, crushed violets, cured meat, vanilla, cedar and a splash of mint. Medium- to full-bodied and remarkably polished, the flamboyant 2019 presents substantial power and density yet neatly maintains balance though fresh acidity. Give this tightly knit La Mouline another five years in bottle, and start enjoying it while waiting for the 2019 La Landonne to come around.Vinous Media | 96 VMMeaty, chewy and gamy, this substantial red shows beautiful floral lift, with salty mineral energy cruising alongside earthy notes of forest floor, revealing a swatch of black fig puree and mocha. Offers depth, substance and textural beauty, with mouthwatering acidity adding surprising tension and brightness through the dark core. Just beginning to show its tremendous potential. Best from 2025 through 2042. 90 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSThere’s a touch of currant on the nose here which gives a very ripe impression. Cola oak dominates the palate at this early stage, and the finish is dry. It’s powerful and structured, and the intense oak and alcohol combine to give a sweet effect on the finish. Attractive aromatics lie in wait underneath the oak, so give this time. Gneiss and loess soils of lieu-dit Côte Blonde. Fermented in stainless steel, aged for 40 months in new oak barriquesDecanter Magazine | 93 DEC

The 2019 Cornas Les Vieilles Vignes is similarly inky colored and has a classic nose of plums, Asian spices, sandalwood, and iron. Medium to full-bodied, with good acidity and ripe tannins, it doesn’t have the sheer weight, richness, or girth of the Vieilles Fontaines, yet it’s certainly a more classic Cornas that will be approachable with just 3-4 years of bottle age yet evolve for twenty years if you’re so inclined.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThis is packed with succulent cherry, plum paste and blackberry fruit flavors that show hints of mulled spice, dried anise, singed tobacco and sweet tapenade as they move through. A mouthwatering mineral edge extends the lengthy finish. Cellar patiently, then serve with game for the full seduction. Best from 2024 through 2038. 1,265 cases made, 225 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSVivid purple. Displays expansive, finely detailed aromas of blueberry, kirsch, black pepper, violet and exotic spices, with hints of olive and cola in the background. Fleshy and broad in the mouth, offering deeply concentrated black and blue fruit preserve, smoky bacon and floral pastille flavors that are lifted and brightened by a building mineral nuance. Chewy and appealingly sweet on the strikingly persistent finish, which features youthfully chewy tannins and resonating florality.Vinous Media | 95 VMRipe fruit on the nose with a touch of roasted spice embedded into the fruit. Full-bodied, mouth-coating ripe fruit and ripe tannin. The acidity is remarkably high and well balanced. The alcohol, however, does peep out just a touch. Tannins are not quite as velvety as the 2020, and there’s a touch of dryness. But nonetheless this is very good for the vintage. From lieux-dits Combe, Patou, La Côte, Tézier, Mazards, Chaillot, old vines of Chapelle St Pierre (the same plots for the cuvée Les Chailles, but further up the slopes). Racked in May, bottled in June, released in the autumn. 20% whole bunch, three weeks maceration, 20 months in oak, 10%-15% new.Decanter | 93 DECNow, this is more like it. A big step up from the disjointed Les Chailles, the 2019 Cornas Vieilles Vignes is a classic rendering of Cornas, with hints of crushed stone, mint, blueberries and red berries on the nose. It’s medium to full-bodied, velvety and concentrated enough, yet it’s not overbearing or heavy; it’s just deliciously drinkable and will drink well for more than a decade. Tasted twice (once blind), with consistent notes.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RP

The 2019 Côte Rôtie Lancement is beautiful and a classic representation of this great terroir. Exotic flowers, bacon fat, spice, and red and black fruits define the bouquet, and it’s as Côte Rôtie as it gets, offering medium to full body, a seamless, elegant, yet also structured mouthfeel and a great finish. Beautifully done, it will benefit from 4-5 years of bottle age and have upwards of two decades of prime drinking.Jeb Dunnuck | 96+ JDDeep violet color. Mineral-accented dark berries, cherry-cola, candied flowers and exotic spices the highly energetic nose. Juicy and seamless in texture, offering concentrated black raspberry, bitter cherry and boysenberry flavors that are underscored by a vein of smoky minerality. Deep but vibrant as well, with fine-grained tannins building slowly on a very long, floral-driven finish that leaves resonating blue fruit and spice notes behind.Vinous Media | 95 VMAnother tiny-production wine, with just 1,200 bottles made, Garon’s 2019 Cote Rotie Lancement is built along similar lines to the family’s Les Cochins bottling, utilizing 20% whole bunches and 30% new oak. The Lancement shows more violets and raspberries on the nose, giving it a greater sense of charm, but it still retains a touch of coarseness on the palate, with a rough, open-knit feel; hints of mocha emerge on the finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

Gorgeous nose, with dried rose, nutmeg and tobacco leaf. Enjoyably rich and generous on the palate, rounded and soft. There’s a tangy balsamic touch to the berry fruit, that’s ripe but not excessively so. Fairy opulent but not excessive, with a long finish. Aged in barriques for 18 months.Decanter | 95 DECSaturated ruby. High-pitched red and blue fruits, candied flowers and botanical herbs on the highly fragrant nose. Juicy and energetic on the palate, offering appealingly sweet boysenberry and black raspberry flavors that are complemented by suggestions of licorice, vanilla and smoky bacon. Finishes very long and smooth, with repeating florality and rounded tannins lending subtle grip.Vinous Media | 94 VMThe 2019 Côte Rôtie Le Combard comes from a terraced lieu-dit in the southern part of the appellation. It’s another elegant, medium to full-bodied, nicely concentrated wine from this family estate that shines for its balance, purity, and length. Offering more blue fruits as well as ground pepper and some obvious minerality, give it a few years and enjoy over the following 10-15.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDThere are just 1,200 bottles of the fine, elegant 2019 Cote Rotie Le Combard. Marked by scents of violets, alpine strawberries and ripe cherries, it’s medium to full-bodied, silky and charming, with a lovely hint of black tea emerging on the lengthy finish. It should drink well for at least the rest of the decade.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RP

Lastly, the 2019 Cornas Mère Michel is one of the finest Syrahs in the report. Dense purple-hued, with a brilliant, powerful nose of ripe blackberries, graphite, charcoal, ground pepper, and barbecued meats, this thrill-a-second wine is full-bodied and has incredible purity of fruit, building tannins, a stacked mid-palate, and one heck of a great finish. It will probably merit a perfect rating in 5-7 years and have 30 years of longevity.Jeb Dunnuck | 98+ JDInky ruby. A deeply perfumed bouquet evokes ripe dark berries, cherry liqueur, potpourri, cracked pepper and olive paste, along with a smoky quality that builds with air. Displays impressive depth and breadth to its lush black and blue fruit, exotic spice and smoked meat flavors; a floral nuance emerges on the back half. Finishes appealingly sweet and very long, with steadily building tannins and lingering floral and spice notes. These are all Serine vines, planted in 2011 so still quite young, especially by the standards of Cornas.Vinous Media | 94 VMRipe, lushly styled waves of blackberry and black currant preserves are backed by singed alder and tobacco leaf notes and a strong tug of burly tar through the finish. The combination makes for an impressive rendering of Syrah. 15 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS