France Wines

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(Vieux Château Certan) The 1982 Vieux Château Certan is an absolute classic and one of the finest vintages produced at this estate since its golden era in the late 1940s and early 1950s. The bouquet today is still ripe, young and stellar, soaring from the glass in a complex blend of black plums, cassis, mocha, espresso, dark soil tones, gentle nuttiness, singed tobacco and a nice touch of VCC botanicals in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and rock solid at the core, with firm, moderate tannins, excellent focus and grip, really good acidity for the vintage and great length and grip on the very precise and complex finish. This is a great, great 1982! (Drink between 2022-2100)John Gilman | 96+ JGNot yet fully mature, this wine reveals some amber at the edge as well as a complex, intoxicating nose of cedar, licorice, spice box, black currants, and cherries. While medium to full-bodied with sweet tannins, and beautiful concentration, it appears to me that more recent vintages are stronger and denser than the 1982. Nevertheless, it is a beauty that can be drunk now and over the next 15-16 years. Release price: ($175.00/case)Robert Parker | 93 RPGood full red. Aromas of red berries, coffee and smoky oak. Then lush and smooth in the mouth, with terrific concentration and noteworthy extract. Ripe acids are in perfect harmony, giving this extremely silky wine excellent grip on the back end. At or close to its peak now, but certainly capable of lasting for another decade. (Another bottle of this wine showed a hint of cabernet franc vegetility and merited a score in the high 80s.)Vinous Media | 92 VMThe colour is holding well enough, but the aromatic spectrum seems to be tiring a little: dusty and medicinal. On the palate, too, this is now a wine of pale complexion; the bones are beginning to show beneath the skin. Still a delicious drink: elegant and harmonious, but no longer as exciting as it once would have been.Decanter | 91 DECA lovely and harmonious red. Beautiful cherry, floral and berry character. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and long, focused berry and milk chocolate flavors. Drink now or hold.--1982 Bordeaux horizontal.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

(Vieux-Château-Certan (Pomerol)) In my historical feature on the estate back in 2009, I really liked the 1995 vintage of VCC and this most recent bottle, drunk in 2018, was still showing beautifully and perhaps, even a touch better with the passage of nine more years of cellaring. The bouquet is very deep and refined, delivering a fine combination of plums, sweet dark berries, cigar wrapper, dark soil tones, a deft framing of nutty new oak, cigar smoke and just a touch of youthful cabernet sauvignon herb tones in the upper register. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and soil-driven in personality, with a lovely core of black fruit, moderate, suave tannins and outstanding focus and grip on the long, superbly balanced and vibrant finish. This is a beautiful, beautiful vintage of VCC that is getting awfully close to its plateau of maturity. Give it just a few more years. (Drink between 2023-2085).John Gilman | 95+ JGThe 1995 Vieux Château Certan is a very capable wine that is now reaching its peak. The Cabernet Franc has always been the key component, imparting a lovely ferrous, undergrowth note on the nose that neatly counterbalances the intense red and black fruit laced with mint. The palate is ripe and generous with kirsch and red plum, quite saturated and maybe even "glossy". Maybe my one criticism is the toastiness of the oak on the finish that lends it a Rioja-like personality, but otherwise this is very fine. Taken from the Pomerol book authored by Neal Martin..Vinous Media | 93 VMVery subtle aromas of dark chocolate, light plum and dried flowers. Full-bodied, with fine tannins and a fresh fruit finish. Refined and caressing. Holding back. I prefer the ’96. Hasn’t evolved as well as I hoped.--’95/’96 Bordeaux retrospective. Best after 2008.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

No written review provided. | 97 W&SRich and decadent on the nose, with raspberry jam and Indian spices. Full-bodied, with an almost dusty texture. Long and seamless, with beautiful, firm tannins and a racy finish. Wonderfully delicate sweet fruit on the finish. Needs a few more years to open.--’88/’98 Bordeaux blind retrospective (2008). Best after 2011. 1,600 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WSA fine offering, the 1998 has closed down, but there is no doubting its fabulous potential. The color is a dense purple. The wine reveals high tannin, huge body, and classy black fruits intermixed with minerals, spice box, cedar, and tobacco. A long, persistent, tannic finish gives this majestic effort a closed but formidable personality. Patience will be required. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2030.Robert Parker | 92 RPBright ruby-red. Cassis, raspberry, cedar, lead pencil and spicy oak on the nose. Rich, sweet and deep, with firm acids giving grip and verve to the plum, raspberry, lead pencil and bitter chocolate flavors. Wonderfully concentrated, lively and very long. The yield here, according to Thienpont, was just 34 hectoliters per hectare.Vinous Media | 92 VM(Vieux Château Certan) As noted above, 1998 was destined to be the inaugural vintage of VCC for the new cépage of sixty percent merlot, thirty percent cabernet franc and ten percent cabernet sauvignon, but due to the season, the grand vin actually ended up being comprised of eighty-five percent merlot, ten percent cabernet sauvignon and only five percent cabernet franc. At age eleven the wine looks to be very promising indeed, but one has to wonder whether or not a VCC such as 1998 with so little cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon will eventually show the classic profile of this estate. The deep and vibrant nose jumps from the glass in a really lovely blend of cassis, dark berries, tobacco, espresso, soil and spicy new oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, deep and nascently complex, with a rock solid core of fruit, firm, well-integrated tannins, lovely focus and great length and grip on the palate-staining finish. At this point in the wine’s evolution there is still a bit of oak tannin that needs to be more fully absorbed into the depth of fruit here, but the wine is impeccably balanced and this should only be a matter of a few more years of bottle age. This is a very strong and fairly classic example of the vintage that still demands many more years in the cellar before starting to drink it. It will be very interesting to follow this wine and see how it ultimately stacks up with some of the great past vintages of VCC. (Drink between 2016-2050)John Gilman | 92 JG

2001 was a vintage that very much suited Pomerol, and the Merlot here takes precedence over the Cabernet Franc, expanding sideways, juicy and smiling. This is a show stopper of a wine, from the very first moment that you pour it. Concentrated and powerful, it gathers pace through the palate with flavours of truffle, cinnamon, toasted almonds, rich plum and damson. The texture is of cashmere and silk, the fruit palate varied and balanced. You can open it now, but there’s no rush, even at close to 18 years on. Drinking Window 2018 - 2035.Decanter | 100 DECThis wine possess great beauty, it is almost Burgundian with its soft tannins and sweet fruit. Pure class and finesse in this, it is round and thick, long and very yummy. No need to wait on this, pull the cork. This vintage had more Merlot than the 2000 and you can tell. A subtle wine.James Suckling | 96 JSNo written review provided. | 95 W&SThe 2001 Vieux Château Certan is one of Alexandre Thienpont’s favorite vintages, and it is easy to see why. It has a classy bouquet, brambly red fruit, quite luscious in style and aromatics that are determined to seduce. The palate is medium-bodied with a firm backbone that will guarantee this as a long-term Pomerol. There is wonderful tension from start to finish, less sinewy than the 2000, more agile and one could say, "athletic". It is a wonderful wine that is now nipping at the heels of the previous vintage. Tasted from a bottle taken from my own cellar bought on release.Vinous Media | 94 VMA brilliant effort from Alexandre Thienpont, this blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc is a deep purple-colored, fleshy, layered effort offering a sweet nose of creosote, incense, Christmas spices, plenty of red and black fruits, and hints of licorice as well as new oak. Rich, medium to full-bodied, with tremendous purity in addition to nobility, give it two more years of cellaring and drink it over the next following 15-18 years.Robert Parker | 93 RPThis is grippy and earthy at first, with tobacco, warm stone, mulled currant and fig fruit notes. Settles down with time in the glass, showing more polish and a pretty violet detail through the finish.—Blind ’01/’03/’05 Bordeaux retrospective (December 2017). Drink now through 2027. 4,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

This is a wine that had extreme intensity of electrifying tannins and acidity, with supercharged fruit. Full-bodied, yet agile and lively. It touches every taste bud on your palate. Chocolate mousse and fruit. I am lost for words. Legendary 1950 all over again. Try it in 2020.James Suckling | 100 JSThe 2009’s nearly 14% natural alcohol, exquisite ripeness, and incredible complex bouquet of Asian spices, fruitcake, licorice, smoke, blackberries and black currants are to die for. A blend of 84% Merlot and the rest equal parts Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, it possesses a viscous texture as well as a freshness and vibrancy that are remarkable given the wine’s weight, richness and potential massiveness. This extraordinary effort is one of the finest Vieux Chateau Certans made over the last sixty years. It will undoubtedly shut down in bottle, requiring a decade or more of cellaring. It should keep for 50 years thereafter. Proprietor Thienpont thinks it is a modern day version of the 1948.As I wrote in my barrel tasting notes, the 2009 ranks alongside four of the legendary vintages of Vieux Chateau Certan’s ancient past, 1945, 1947, 1948 and 1950. It is undoubtedly a cleaner wine than those older vintages, and the selection process under proprietor Alexandre Thienpont was far more severe in 2009 than it would have been sixty years ago.Robert Parker | 99 RPThis shows gorgeous silk and polish, brimming with beguiling plum, cherry eau de vie and red currant fruit flavors laced with supple toasty vanilla and cedar hints. But in the background brews a darker side, with loam, maduro tobacco and iron notes, which take over on the finish authoritatively. This feels like it will get a lot bigger before it fully melds--and that will be a while. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2018 through 2035. 4,300 cases made.Wine Spectator | 97 WS(Vieux Château Certan) The 2009 Vieux Château Certan is a great wine in the making, but it will be a rather atypical vintage for this great estate, as the rains of the 19th and 20th of September played havoc a bit with the cabernet franc vineyards here, and a much larger percentage of merlot ended up being used for the grand vin in this vintage. Consequently the ’09 VCC is comprised of eighty-four percent merlot this year, with the balance made up of equal pars of cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon. But despite the atypical blend, the wine is stunning, as it offers up a beautiful nose of black cherries, blood orange, tobacco leaf, really lovely minerality, espresso and a discreet base of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very, very pure, with plenty of power, a rock solid core of fruit, tangy acids, fine-grained tannins and great length and purity on the complex and beautifully poised finish. A great wine. (Drink between 2020-2060)John Gilman | 93-94+ JGThe 2009 Vieux-Château-Certan has a gorgeous bouquet with red fruit, warm bricks, just a hint of sloes and rose petals. The palate is medium-bodied with tarry red fruit, firm tannin and well judged acidity. It tapers in slightly towards the finish where I would like a little more roundness but there is persistence here. Readers know I am huge fan of Alexandre Thienpont and this property, but I aver that this growing season never suited them. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 2009 Bordeaux tasting.Vinous Media | 93 VM

The 2010 Vieux Château Certan is deep garnet in color, and—POW—the nose opens as a complete spice-bomb, featuring notes of fenugreek, cumin seed and cinnamon stick over a core of Black Forest cake, plum preserves and blueberry pie with hints of fragrant earth and crushed stones. Full-bodied, rich and seductive in the mouth, it is laden with layers of black and blue fruit preserves, framed by super plush tannins, finishing epically long and perfumed.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 100 RPA perfect wine with perfect purity of fruit. It shows gorgeous aromas of blackberries, currants and cedar with hints of chocolate. Full body, with a lovely sweetness of fruit and ripe tannins. It goes to chocolate, hazelnut and spices. Nutmeg too. Sexy and incredible. It has so much depth of fruit and density.James Suckling | 100 JSA stunner, this marries structured tobacco, ganache and loam notes to a glorious core of raspberry, blackberry and plum coulis flavors, accented by coffee, roasted mesquite and black tea aromatics. A terrific minerality courses throughout, with the finish letting power and refinement play out almost endlessly. Best from 2017 through 2040. 3,500 cases made.Wine Spectator | 98 WSSlowly opening, taking its time and yet full of precise, fleshy pleasure. This is an understated 2010 as far as the vintage goes on the Right Bank, muscular while full of elegance and mouth watering pleasure. Dark chocolate notes, a fistful of tannins, fleshy but carefully extracted fruits, just a lovely example of Pomerol on the subtler side of the street. Drinking Window 2020 - 2042Decanter | 97 DECThe 2010 Vieux Château Certan has a more modern bouquet compared to its peers. There is plenty of high quality new oak that slightly masks the fruit, although it does not overwhelm and should be completely subsumed with bottle age. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and a fine bead of acidity. This is very well balanced, though I would have liked a little more substance and grip on the finish. Very fine and classy, but maybe it could have been better? Tasted blind at Farr Vintners 10-Year On Bordeaux horizontal.Vinous Media | 97 VMA beautiful, velvety smooth wine, unusually for Vieux Château Certan dominated by Merlot. It has tannin, to be sure, but these are conveyed through the ripe fruit and the sweetness of the blackberry flavors. It is opulent, although never too much, retaining its elegance. Age for many years.Wine Enthusiast | 97 WE(Vieux Château Certan) Vieux Château Certan is one of my absolute favorite estates in all of Bordeaux, but the 2010 will not be a vintage that finds its way into my cellar. The wine has turned out quite well for the vintage on the Right Bank, but it is a pretty heady wine at 14.5 percent alcohol and suffers just a bit in terms of aromatic and flavor precision as a result. Like the 2009 here, the blend includes a bit more merlot than is customary, with fully eighty-six percent of the blend hailing from this grape (the balance being made up of eight percent cabernet franc and six percent cabernet sauvignon). The blend turned out to be a bit of a surprise, as many Right Bank producers mentioned how exceptional the cabernet franc turned out in 2010, but perhaps the drought conditions produced some hydric stress in the cab franc at VCC and imperfect ripening as a result. The wine is of course still very good, as it offers up a deep and ripe blend of black cherries, dark chocolate, nutty tones, cigar smoke, gravelly soil nuances and a distinct topnote of coffee bean. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and broad-shouldered, with a firm core of ripe fruit, suave tannins, good balance and fine length and grip on the palate-staining and quite powerful finish. There are absolutely no signs of overripeness here on the nose or palate and the alcohol is perfectly buried into the body of the wine, but it lacks just a touch of the customary VCC spark at this octane level. (Drink between 2022-2060)John Gilman | 92 JG

One of the unquestioned stars of the vintage, the 2014 Vieux Château Certan soars out of the glass with aromatic intensity, bright acids and finely sculpted fruit. Cool, intense but very much reserved in the style of the year, the 2014 exudes class. The flavors are intense and vibrant throughout. Dark red and purplish-hued stone fruit, lavender, mint and spice lead into the striking finish. The 2014 is just as impressive today as it was from barrel. As always, Vieux Certan has the rare ability to confer power without excess weight. The 2014 is a magical bottle. Readers who can find it should not hesitate. The blend is back to classic proportions of 80 % Merlot and 20 % Cabernet Franc.Antonio Galloni | 97+ AGThe 2014 Vieux Château Certan is glorious stuff that has more personality and sexiness than just about every other wine in the vintage. Kirsch, black cherries, flowers, forest floor and exotic spice characteristics all emerge from this ethereally textured, elegant, beautifully rich 2014 that has notable acidity, sweet tannin, and a great finish. With an almost Burgundian elegance and purity, it’s already drinking nicely, but will be even better in another 3-4 years and keep for two decades.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThis is so gorgeous with black truffles, stones and subtle blackberries. Black mushrooms, too. Full-bodied, so dense and deep with very silky tannins and an endless finish. The density of fruit is superb. Truly irresistible. Drink in 2022 but already wonderful to drink.James Suckling | 97 JSThis is a rich, finely structured wine. It is highly perfumed, packed with black fruits and has a dark, firm texture. At the same time, the acidity is intense and the structure tight, suggesting a wine to age. Beautifully endowed with great fruit, it will take time to develop. Drink from 2026. Wine Enthusiast | 97 WEThe 2014 Vieux Chateau Certan is a blend of 80% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Franc and 1% Cabernet Sauvignon, picked in three stages: 19-20 September, 29 September to 2 October, and 7 and 8 October. The yields came in at 38.7 hectoliters per hectare with 13.4% alcohol. It was one of my stars of the vintage and now in bottle, I find no reason to change that. It is endowed with an exquisite bouquet, really one of the best I encountered throughout my tastings: perfumed blackberry, wild strawberry, cold stone and wilted rose petals. Like in barrel, it is not powerful, yet it is blessed with wondrous precision. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp acidity and fine tannin, a slightly masculine VCC due to its linearity and precision. There is tension here from start to finish, a sophisticated and cerebral Pomerol that transcends the growing season. It is a totally different kettle of fish to the 2015 (and doubtless the pre-natal 2016). This is unashamedly classic in style, fanning out towards the mineral-rich finish with great frisson and energy. A cellar without the 2014 Vieux-Château-Certan would be a great pity.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 96 RP-NMGorgeous, with a core of remarkably pure blackberry, raspberry and black currant fruit wrapped up in a fresh tobacco leaf accent. Everything is carried by silky yet persistent tannins, while the finish lets suave warm stone and singed juniper details fill in. Shows some coiled-up energy, which should make for fun cellaring. Best from 2020 through 2035. 3,167 cases made. — JMWine Spectator | 96 WSEnjoyably full of rich dark fruits, pretty serious in feel and in tannic hold that supports without crushing the fruit. Overall the layers are starting to peel back and show cassis, blackberry, earth, cigar box and tobacco smoke. Plenty of pleasure on offer here. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2038Decanter | 94 DEC

The 2015 Vieux Château Certan is every bit as magnificent from bottle as it was from barrel. Rich, sumptuous and explosive in the glass, the 2015 is pure class. The flavors are deep and boldly sketched in this sumptuous, spectacularly ripe Pomerol. Inky blue/purplish fruit, spice, lavender, licorice and menthol all develop in the glass, but it is the wine’s textural richness and intensity that stand out most. As good as the 2015 is today, it is going to need at least 15-20 years to be at its very best. Is there anything more I can ask of the 2015? No, there is not. This is a tremendous showing.Antonio Galloni | 100 AGI was able to taste both the 2015 and 2016 grand vins, and these are heavenly, magical wines that could not be any better. Starting with the 2015 Vieux Château Certan, it shows the opulent, flamboyant style of the vintage to a T and reveals a saturated purple/ruby color, a monster bouquet of blackberries, tobacco, kirsch, dried spices, and loamy earth, full-bodied richness, sweet tannins, and a finish that won’t quit. A thrill a minute, wine doesn’t get any better, and I only wish every reader could taste this beauty. Drink it any time over the coming 30 years or more.Jeb Dunnuck | 100 JDThe blackberries, blueberries, oyster shell and violets are so mesmerizing. Full-bodied, focused and deep. It takes you to another space and plane. Dried flowers and dark fruit. The tannins are perfectly crafted. Keeps going as you taste it. Drink in 2023 but why wait?James Suckling | 100 JSBlended of 80% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Franc and 1% Cabernet Sauvignon, the medium to deep garnet-purple colored 2015 Vieux Chateau Certan opens with profound notes of blueberry compote, dried mulberries, black forest cake, licorice, violets and garrigue with wafts of black truffles, sandalwood and rose hips. Medium to full-bodied, very earthy/savory and beautifully layered with very plush yet present tannins, it offers lovely freshness and a very long minerally finish. So very Pomerol!Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98+ RPThis is a beautifully fragrant wine that has power along with an elegant acidity. It has wonderful juiciness that cuts through any of the tannins to give great freshness, a silky texture and fruitiness at the end. Perfumed and stylish, this is a very fine wine.Wine Enthusiast | 98 WEExpressive and alluring aromas of warm plum reduction and boysenberry puree lead off here, followed by fleshy, seamlessly layered notes of blackberry, black currant, melted black licorice and smoldering tobacco. Shows a lovely tug of dark earth through the finish without sacrificing a sense of polish or giving ground to the waves of fruit. Displays terrific latent energy through the finish. Best from 2023 through 2040. 3,750 cases made.Wine Spectator | 97 WSAromatics here are a little more evolved than with the 2016, showing tar notes, Liquorice Allsorts, anise, raspberry and blackberry fruits. This is a good quality wine with impact and character and the subtle complex shades of flavour that VCC does so well. Really does need time in the glass, suggesting it will hit full stride in another two or three years. (Drink between 2023-2042)Decanter | 95 DEC