Investment Grade

wines

One of the greatest young wines I’ve ever tasted is the 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Sanctus Sanctorum which is 100% old vine Grenache sourced from a single parcel in the La Crau lieu-dit. Lighter in color than both the Combes des Fous and Ex Machina, it offers a heavenly perfume of kirsch liqueur, crushed rocks, exotic spices, and graphite. This beauty hits the palate with an incredible display of opulent, decent fruit paired with an elegance and seamlessness that needs to be tasted to be believed. With building richness, no weight, ultra-fine tannins, and a finish that won’t quit, it’s released only in magnum, so it will take upward of a decade to hit maturity and will keep for 20+ years. Hats off to the Maurel family and their consultant Philippe Cambie!Jeb Dunnuck | 100 JDBottled only in magnum, the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Sanctus Sanctorum was made entirely from Grenache planted in 1905 and aged in new demi-muids, yet it has completely absorbed any trace of barrel. Incredibly intense and dramatic, it combines savory notes of licorice and dark roses with black cherries and dried spices. Full-bodied, rich and velvety, with a mind-bendingly long finish, it’s a tour de force that may prove to be perfection for some readers.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 99 RPDeep shimmering crimson. Powerful, expansive red berry liqueur, floral pastille, garrigue and Asian spice qualities on the hugely perfumed nose, along with building suggestions of incense and smoky minerals. Sweet and seamless on the palate, offering intense Chambord, cherry pie, spicecake and lavender pastille flavors that deepen and expand steadily through the back half. Clings with superb tenacity on the gently tannic, mineral-tinged finish, which eventually leaves suave floral and exotic spice notes behind. Produced exclusively in magnums.Vinous Media | 97 VM

The 2017 Grands-Echézeaux Grand Cru is a pretty big step up in this range, both in terms of depth, power and energy. Here the flavors are dark, while there is quite a bit of tannin lurking beneath. Black cherry, graphite, leather, smoke, spice and menthol infuse the 2017 with tons of virile, somber character. Readers will have to be very patient. A whole range of sepia-toned aromas and flavors shrouded in tannin add depth to an imposing Grands-Echézeaux built for cellaring. Harvest was on September 12.Vinous Media | 96 VMThe lovely warm-spice and delicate rooty notes pull you into this very elegant and sophisticated red Burgundy that has tons of fine tannin and a firm mineral core. Wonderful textures right through the finely chiseled palate, then a long, extremely steady finish. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 96 JSThis is a compelling wine with its lovely, bright, forward cherry fruit accented with floral notes, attractive density and supple yet grippy tannins. Aubert de Villaine feels that Grands Échézeaux is closer to Romanée-St-Vivant in character than to its neighbour Échézeaux. The wine is fermented 100% as whole clusters, which brings a lovely note of rose petals to the lingering finish. To judge by the lush, accessible flavours, this should open relatively early yet have the substance to age for decades.Decanter Magazine | 95 DECFragrant purple colour, this is more elegant than the Echezeaux, but will it prove to be more concentrated? Yes, I think so on the palate, with multiple layers of rich red fruit, nothing black. Tasted from a Lagrange, hand-made barrel there was a sweeter and more complete mouthfeel. From François Frères the same wine was darker in colour with some black notes to the fruit, a little more spice, greater density but less finesse, a more obvious big brother to the Echezeaux. Tasted Nov 2018.Jasper Morris | 95-97 JMMore brooding and reserved than the Échézeaux that preceded it in the tasting, the 2017 Grands Échézeaux Grand Cru unwinds in the glass with an enticing bouquet of cassis, blackberries, blood orange, exotic spices and musk. On the palate, it’s full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with a more introverted, structured profile than the Échézeaux, its considerable reserves of concentrated fruit framed by an abundance of powdery tannin and succulent acids. Long and penetrating, this will reward sustained bottle age. The Grands Échézeaux was picked on September 12.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94+ RPA cooler, more elegant and equally spicy nose of mostly red fruits and Asian-style tea is wonderfully fresh if notably more restrained. As is typically the case there is more size and weight to the broad-shouldered flavors that are shaped by firmer and slightly less fine-grained tannins on the impressively persistent finish. This is not as concentrated or powerful as it usually is but even so, it is going to require at least 10 years or so of patience and should amply reward 15 to 18.Burghound | 94 BH