Rare Italians

wines

Very attractive combination of dried fruit and spices with black cherries and plums. Aromas of flowers and sandalwood, too. Full-bodied and very refined, yet intense, with plush, velvety tannins that are wonderfully integrated and intertwined with the fruit. Ripe center palate. Tight at the end, suggesting the need for some serious bottle age. Very structured. Try after 2025.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 20th anniversary bottling of Testamatta made, from the 2019 vintage, in brand new winemaking facilities in Florence. This just shines from the moment it’s poured. Layered and complex this is a gem of a wine filled with cherry, raspberry, damson and caramel notes alongside a savoury edge that makes it so moreish. Tannins that support but don’t overwhelm give a nice overall weight to the palate while the flavous linger on the long finish. Made from old vines on stony soils on the Tuscan hilltops. Grapes are selected and sourced from the best five vineyards, which are divided into parcels and harvested up to eight times. Fermentation is in open-top barriques for the smaller parcels and in barrels or stainless steel for the larger ones without any temperature controls. Maceration for 7-10 days then moved into old barriques for 20 months.Decanter | 96 DECA pure expression of Sangiovese, the Bibi Graetz 2019 Testamatta is a wine in constant evolution. Bibi has added 17 more hectares of vineyard to the program, with 12 hectares in Fiesole (north of Florence) and 5 hectares in San Donato in Colle (south of Florence) with 70-year-old vines. The base of the wine sees fruit from old vines planted in the 1950s in the cool-climate Lamole subzone of Chianti Classico. These new terroirs bring a lot more aromatic nuance and complexity to the wine with perfumed blue flower, candied orange peel, wet earth and plumy black fruit. White Alberese soils add a strong chalky mineral signature to the finish of this elegantly streamlined and linear Tuscan red.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPDelicate aromas of red berry, sunbaked earth and dark spice shape the nose along with a whiff of Mediterranean scrub. Bright and elegantly structured, the linear palate features juicy Marasca cherry, crushed raspberry and baking spice framed in polished tannins. Drink through 2029.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WEA sleek, well-delineated red, delivering cherry and raspberry flavors on an elegant frame. Fresh, and builds nicely on the mineral- and floral-laced finish. Drink now through 2028. 10,000 cases made, 2,500 cases imported. Wine Spectator | 90 WS

Gaja’s 2019 Barbaresco was bottled only a few days before this tasting but it already has sweet roses and red fruits on the nose with very subtle, gentle spice notes. It has a great texture and flows gracefully across the palate. It feels very harmonious with plenty of refreshing acidity and finely integrated tannins. Sublimely elegant with a fine, silt-like texture to the tannins, it is poised, beautifully understated and charming. Keep for 2 years and drink for up to 20 plus.The Wine Independent | 97 TWIHeady aromas of rose, violet, forest berry and a whiff of oak-driven spice shape the nose. Smooth and full-bodied, the elegantly structured palate delivers crushed raspberry, licorice and coffee bean set against taut, fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity. Drink 2025–2034.Kerin O’Keefe July 2022 | 96 KO(Gaja Barbaresco Red) Gaja’s 2019 Barbaresco is gorgeous. Bright and nervy, with fabulous balance, the 2019 captures all the best this tricky vintage had to offer. Gaja did not bottle any other Barbaresco crus, opting to use the best lots for this bottling. That decision paid off in a 2019 that sizzles with tension. The aromatics alone are captivating. Bright acids lend vibrancy to a core of beautifully delineated Nebbiolo fruit. I can’t wait to see how this ages. (Drink between 2025-2039)Antonio Galloni | 93+ AG

The 2019 Palafreno, 100% Merlot from Greve’s Ruffoli district, is stunning, not to mention one of the greatest wines I have ever tasted here. Silky, plush and exceptionally vivid in the glass, the Palafreno possesses breathtaking beauty that captivates all the senses. At this early stage, the 2019 is all primary dark fruit, but the layers will start to open with cellaring. Readers who can find it should not hesitate. It’s a real head turner.Vinous Media | 98 VMThis is very polished and structured with a finesse to the tannins which spread across the palate. It’s full-bodied with fine fruit and a driven finish. It needs three or four years to soften and open. From organically grown grapes. Vegan. Try after 2025.James Suckling | 95 JS(Palafreno- Agricola Querciabella) Querciabella’s Super Tuscan bottling crafted solely from merlot is absolutely beautiful in the 2019 vintage. The wine is fairly ripe in this vintage, coming in at 14.5 percent octane, but shows off its signature purity and precision on both the nose and palate. The beautifully refined bouquet wafts from the glass in a mix of sweet dark berries, black plums, tobacco leaf, violets, a gorgeous base of soil, a hint of Tuscan herb tones and a deft foundation of cedary new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, focused and complex, with a plush core of fruit, excellent mineral undertow, ripe tannins, tangy acids and excellent length and grip on the superbly balanced finish. Like every vintage of Palafreno I have been fortunate enough to taste, the 2019 is built for the long haul and will demand some cellaring to soften up its tannins. But, it will be exceptional once it is ready to drink. (Drink between 2032 - 2075)John Gilman | 95 JGRich and round, this red exudes black cherry, blackberry, wild rosemary and iron flavors. Reveals dense tannins on the finish, leaving a tight feel, yet this lingers. Drink now through 2029. 216 cases made, 20 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

The 2019 Barolo Lazzarito continues a trend seen in recent years in which the focus has been more about finesse than raw power. Intense red fruit, iron, dried herbs, chalk, dried rose petal and white pepper all run through this deep, virile Barolo. The power and intensity of Serralunga really come alive on the heady, explosive finish. Bright saline notes linger on the deep, resonant finish. A Barolo of raw, unbridled power, the Lazzarito demands patience.Vinous Media | 97 VM

The 2019 Barolo Monvigliero shows a medium dark garnet appearance with an especially focused quality of fruit. There is wild cherry and Japanese plum, but the Monvigliero cru also delivers crushed rose, earthy iris root, candied orange peel with clove and dustings of black pepper. The wine is exceedingly silky and polished in texture, but its inherent complexity is never diminished. It should be interesting to revisit this bottle after the 10-year mark. This estate was the first to bottle a Monvigliero in 1978, and today 7,000 bottles are made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe 2019 Barolo Monvigliero is layered with cinnamon, red cherry, white pepper, and apricot and is dry, elegant, and medium-bodied on the palate, with fine tannins and mouthwatering salinity. Revealing notes of orange pith, warming spice, and pomegranate seed, it is long on the palate with a linear approach. Drink 2025-2045.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDFratelli Alessandria’s 2019 Monvigliero is full-bodied and delicious, delivering flavors of raspberry compote, blood orange, licorice and tobacco enveloped in velvety tannins. It’s bold but also possesses an almost weightless finesse, and thanks to the fruit richness, you’d never guess this has an abv of 15%. Drink 2026–2039. Abv: 15% Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KOThe 2019 Barolo Monvigliero, tasted from barrel, is fabulous. Silky and elegant, with tons of energy, the Monvigliero is showing beautifully today, even as a sample from tank with low SO2 typical of this stage pre-bottling. Even so, all the translucent finesse of Monvigliero comes through loud and clear. Crushed red berry fruit, chalk, blood orange, mint and white pepper lend brightness. The 2019 is shaping up to be a real beauty. It’s one of those young wines that is very hard to spit.Vinous Media | 94-96 VMFirst produced in 1978, the vines on this 1.4ha plot are now 50 years old. Traditional winemaking with long maceration and ageing in botti grandi. Dense and ruby in colour, the nose is restrained: earthy, with dried mushroom, rose and violet, cinnamon, and fresh pomegranate. Vibrant, savoury and delicate yet chewy on the palate, its tannins are extracted but polished, and a bit rigid on the finish. Not really ready to drink; a structure that defies time.Decanter | 90 DEC

This vineyard delivers slightly more concentrated fruit and a medium-dark appearance from loamy calcareous soils. The 2019 Barolo San Lorenzo di Verduno delivers more oomph and power with ripe cherry, blackcurrant, dark spice and earthy aromas. Fratelli Alessandria makes some of the most harmonious wines in Verduno, and that quality comes through beautifully in this wine, despite the slightly more robust fruit weight delivered by San Lorenzo di Verduno. Only 5,000 bottles were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThere is a fresh mineral character in the 2019 Barolo San Lorenzo Di Verduno with wet asphalt, red cherry, orange, and clove. It is medium-bodied but takes on more structure and concentration, with ripe, fine tannins, dusty earth,and cranberry cocktail, and long with citrus on the finish. A nervy wine, it will benefit from another couple of years in bottle and drink well 2026-2040.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDCamphor, wild rose, ripe berry and new leather are just some of the aromas that you’ll find on Fratelli Alessandria’s fragrant 2019 San Lorenzo di Verduno. Full-bodied and buffed to a smooth sheen, the juicy, chewy palate doles out fleshy black cherry, crushed mint and licorice framed in tightly knit, velvety tannins. You’ll also detect the subtle warmth of alcohol on the finish, but the fruit richness easily supports it. Drink 2026–2034. Abv: 15% Kerin O’Keefe | 94 KO The 2019 Barolo San Lorenzo di Verduno, tasted from barrel, is another potent wine from Alessandria. Heady and explosive, the 2019 possesses tremendous energy and drive from start to finish. Dark red fruit, gravel, incense, scorched earth, rose petal, licorice and iron are some of the many notes that race out of the glass. The 2019 is wild and racy, sort of like a misbehaved child, but in the best sense! I can’t wait to see how it turns out.Vinous Media | 93-95 VM

Camphor, forest floor, cedar and rose aromas come to the forefront on Sandrone’s stunning 2019 Barolo Aleste. It’s racy and youthfully austere, delivering red cherry, pomegranate, star anise, cedar and white pepper framed in tightly wound, fine-grained tannins. Bright acidity keeps it energized and beautifully balanced. This needs several years to fully unwind and shows serious aging potential. Drink 2029–2049. Abv: 14.5%Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOAleste is a contraction of the names Alessia and Stefano, grandchildren of the late Luciano Sandrone. With fruit from Cannubi Boschis, the 2019 Barolo Aleste shows important richness and structure. This is the proverbial Barolo with a capital B. It reveals thick layers of dark fruit, cherry and spice. It shows sweet tannins and impactful texture. When tasting at the winery, Le Vigne is usually served first, and Aleste comes after that. Both wines promise a very long aging window.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe 2019 Barolo Aleste is another stellar wine from Sandrone. Like Le Vigne, the Aleste is a tightly wound ball of energy. Dark cherry, mocha, plum, licorice and lavender all race across the palate. This racy, but youthfully austere Barolo has a ton to offer. There’s more density and a darker profile than in the Le Vigne, sort of like a soloist to Le Vigne’s orchestra.Vinous Media | 97 VMAn integrated and well-crafted Barolo with flowers and lemon peel to the cherry and strawberry aromas. Medium-bodied with chewy tannins and a linear drive throughout. Tight and muscular. Well formed. Drink after 2027.James Suckling | 95 JS

Rose, menthol, star anise and baking spice are just some of the aromas that appear on the gorgeous Sandrone Barolo Le Vigne 2019. Focused, elegant and savory, the vibrant palate offers juicy red cherry, spiced cranberry, crushed mint and ground clove before a licorice close. A backbone of fine-grained tannins provide support while bright acidity keeps it impeccably balanced and loaded with energy and tension. What a stunner. Drink 2027–2044. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOThe 2019 Barolo Le Vigne is a historic blend of fruit from Baudana in Serralunga d’Alba, Villero in Castiglione Falletto, Vignane in Barolo and Merli in Novello. This year, a fifth site was added to the final blend. It is the Le Coste MGA in Barolo with south-facing exposures and 45-year-old vines in a two-hectare parcel. The backbone of this wine is Baudana, and Merli adds freshness. The wine needs more time in bottle, but already it proves generous and bold with dark fruit, spice and crushed mineral.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97+ RPThe 2019 Barolo Le Vigne is pure and total seduction. Kirsch, sweet pipe tobacco, mint, cedar, dried herbs and orange peel all grace a Le Vigne built on mid-weight structure and energy. There is a feeling of youthful classicism and austerity that is so beguiling. Readers should plan on being patient, though. The 2019 won’t be ready to drink anytime soon, but there is enough fruit to make me think it will be superb, in time.Vinous Media | 97 VMVery aromatic with hibiscus, crab apple, orange blossom, and ripe strawberry on the nose. Full-bodied, very layered and powerful, yet it remains very fine textured with an intense finish. Slightly more structured than before. Perhaps due to the addition of wines from a new vineyard? Try after 2027.James Suckling | 97 JS

Combining power, intensity, class and great fruit, Produttori’s 2019 Montestefano Riserva is a phenomenal wine and a quintessential expression of this fantastic cru. It opens with heady aromas of new leather, Alpine herb, pressed rose, ripe dark-skinned berry and forest floor. It has the most Barolo-like structure of all the firm’s crus, delivering ripe Morello cherry, succulent raspberry, licorice and tobacco alongside a network of firm tannins that are more reminiscent of Serralunga than Barbaresco. A magnificent wine, with incredible aging potential. Drink 2031–2049. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 99 KOThe 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano is perhaps the most complete of the 2019 Riservas at this stage. It offers fine depth, plenty of tannin and nascent emerging inner sweetness to tie it all together. A wine of stature and textural depth, the Montestefano is my early favorite in this lineup.Vinous Media | 95 VM

he 2019 Ovello Riserva is succulent and enveloping, offering scents of dark-skinned berry, forest floor, violet and new leather. Full-bodied with impressive structure and fruit, it boasts ripe raspberry, black cherry and licorice supported by firm, close-grained tannins that provide the backbone. Fresh acidity keeps it well balanced. Drink 2029–2044. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOThe 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello is powerful, savory and intensely linear, in classico Ovello style, and yet it appears to have enough fruit behind its imposing tannins to develop well over the coming years. In this tasting, the Ovello feels pretty closed post bottling, but its inherent balance and qualities are there. Clean saline notes extend the finish in promising fashion.Vinous Media | 94 VM

A jeweled ruby/magenta hue, the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino Rennina shows off smoldering aromas of incense, cigar box, kirsch, lavender, and sage. It transitions to the palate with ease and is approachable, with refined tannins, mouthwatering, seamless acidity, a long-lasting finish, and a hint of warming spices on the back palate. An outstanding and seductive wine, it’s hard to resist now but will have lots of longevity ahead. Drink 2026-2046.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDImpeccably balanced with that proverbial Gaja Madias Touch that always denotes an extra level of creaminess or fruit concentration that fits lock and key with the wine’s acidity and velvety tannic structure, this is a truly gorgeous wine. The Pieve Santa Restituta 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Rennina represents a blend of fruit from sites of various soil compositions and exposures. In this classic vintage, you can count on a wine that is firmly structured and important in terms of mouthfeel, but it also yields to delicate and softer nuances of wild rose, toasted cumin seed, campfire ash and grilled rosemary. The wine sticks to the palate and offers long-lasting black fruit flavors.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPFrom three vineyards directly surrounding the Pieve Santa Restituta winery in Tavernelle, the Rennina bottling is akin to Barbaresco, according to Angelo Gaja. Harvested between 12 September to 1 October, the 2019 definitely mines Sangiovese’s elegant side. Sweet Mediterranean herb nuances of tarragon, mint and sage are joined by cedary oak tones. Shiny, polished and balanced yet with underlying tension, the palate offers red berries tinged with bitter orange peel and tobacco. Finely powdered, clayey tannins cling confidently to the edges, while appetising acidity races through the core. Full, but not heavy and with a satisfying crunch, this will be accessible before the Sugarille but should be at least as long lived.Decanter | 96 DECThe 2019 Pieve Santa Restituta is gorgeous, starting with its aromas of lavender, forest floor, sun-warmed hay, camphor and exotic brown spice. Linear and focused, the savory, elegantly structured palate features ripe Morello cherry, raspberry compote, licorice and cake spice framed in taut, refined tannins that give it a smooth, polished texture. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced. To date, this is the best wine I’ve ever had from Gaja’s Montalcino estate. Drink 2027–2039. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOAromas of sweet cherries, roses, sweet tobacco, and hints of jam. Full and layered. Lots of fruit. Juicy finish. Chewy at the end, and with air it becomes layered and very structured. Cellar it. Give it three or four years. Best after 2027.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Rennina pulls the taster down to the earth with a beguiling blend of crushed ashen stones and grilled herbs, giving way to red plums and violet pastille. It sweeps across the palate with silky textures yet possesses a wiry framework that adds a sultry character. Salty mineral tones complicate its tart red berry fruits. Edgy tannins collect toward the close, inflected by orange hints and a pleasantly bitter tinge that lingers on and on. Currently, the Rennina is all elbows and knees, yet I’m very excited to see where this distinctly savory Brunello is headed.Vinous Media | 94 VM

This wine kisses the sky with fruit from bush-trained vines planted in 2012 at the highest point of the appellation (above 600 meters in elevation). This is a wine to watch in the future, especially as these vines grow older. The Le Ragnaie 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Passo del Lume Spento has a fine and direct bouquet with vibrant red fruit, cranberry, pressed rose and rosemary blossom. Fruit and floral components run very strong, and you don’t get as much of the earthiness that we find in the other wines. Instead, it feels mineral and salty. Crunchy fruit and powdery tannins fuel a very long and polished finish with a contained 13.5% alcohol content. This wine is fluid and more of a shape-shifter. Only 4,400 bottles were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPTo close out the single vineyard wines, the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino Passo Del Lume Spento takes a youthful red/garnet-tinged color and, as with the rest of the wines of this vintage from Le Ragnaie, has a signature stamp of incredible perfume lifting from the glass out of the gate, with notes fresh Mediterranean herbs, ripe cherries, anise, and crushed rose petals. Ripe citrus-toned fruit fills the palate of this medium-bodied Brunello, which has great mouthwatering acidity that floats through the sides of the palate, angular tannins, and a mineral-toned finish. It’s packed with tension, though, and is deserving of another year or two of cellaring before drinking 2025-2045.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Passo del Lume Spento opens with a mentholated freshness, as crushed stone and minty herbs complicate dusty dried strawberries. This is juicy in character and wickedly fresh, showing its minerality up front as a tart wave of wild berries descends upon the palate. It finishes with cheek-puckering tension, potent and primary, along with a coating of fine-grained tannins, all balanced by a bump of residual acidity. This is a spice bomb, yet it has the energy to balance. The Passo del Lume Spento hails from bush-trained vines planted in 2012 at 621 meters.Vinous Media | 94 VMCampinoti’s highest altitude single-vineyard bottling comes from a one-hectare plot planted in 2011 at a lofty 621 metres. The third release as a Brunello, it hits its stride with the 2019 vintage. While still reserved in aromas, this sings with inner mouth perfumes of white blossom and rose against a backdrop of sour red cherry and pomegranate. The mouth-cleansing tannins are linear, and brisk acidity whisks the wine across the palate. Slender but not bony, this has sufficient flesh to harmonise the structure. Really quite thrilling in its sinewy, chiselled personality.Decanter | 94 DEC

This wine is a star of the vintage. It is made with fruit from vines planted in 1968 in ancient soils rich in quartz at a very high 600 meters in elevation. The Le Ragnaie 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Ragnaie V. V. (the initials stand for “vecchie vigne,” or "old vines") reveals a soulful personality with a very elegant set of aromas and compelling complexity. There is heritage rose, lilac and something earthy like tarragon or marjoram. Underripe cherry and redcurrant are found at the core; however, that ethereal herbal note continues to the palate where it meets a chalky mineral tone. Powdery tannins stick to the side of your mouth for a very long time. Only 4,400 bottles were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 99 RPA similar medium red color, the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino Ragnaie V.V. is another showstopper, with stunning floral and layered aromas of licorice, ripe red cherries, blood orange, and clove. Mouthwatering and structured, this is a noble wine, and while it’s medium-bodied. It’s not for the faint of heart. With ripe, angular tannins that frame this wine, it propels through the palate with notes of saline and vibrant acidity. Long and tension-packed, it demands several years of proper cellaring and feels as though it will improve over the coming two decades at a glacial pace. Drink 2027-2047.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDOwner Riccardo Campinoti reports that the 2019 harvest was slightly early by the estate’s standards: he picked his 50-plus-year-old vines on 4 October, giving the must a long maceration of 45-50 days. After seven months in bottle, it demonstrates the same precision and minerality that were evident in cask. Currently somewhat stern, it’s intriguing in its reticence. Through iron and warm stone nuances, black raspberry pokes through. This will never be a big, rich wine, yet as the dense layers unfold and those chalky tannins relax their grip, its enveloping nature will provide much pleasure.Decanter | 96 DECThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino VV is youthfully coy in the glass, lifting up with a nuanced blend of dried roses, licorice and clove, excited by hints of spiced oranges. This is cool-toned and saline in character, with silken textures contrasted by crisp red fruits and salty mineral tones that saturate the senses. The 2019 finishes long, primary and with crunchy tannins, yet there are depths of complexity here just waiting to unfold. This is quite forbidding today, yet in five to ten years, I expect a magical experience.Vinous Media | 95+ VMBright and tangy cherry and raspberry fruit heralds this supple red, which is ripe and juicy, backed by fine-grained tannins, with floral and earth accents adding detail. Vivid, charming and integrated, this feels approachable now, yet should improve over the next decade. Drink now through 2040. 370 cases made, 50 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

Showing elegance, structure, concentration and great depth, the 2020 Brovia Vigna Cà Mia is magnificent, starting with its enticing fragrance of rose, camphor and pipe tobacco. Reflecting the fruit richness of the vintage and the balance and body the site is celebrated for, the delicious palate unleashes fleshy cherry and crushed raspberry before closing on truffle and licorice notes. A backbone of enveloping fine-grained tannins lends structure and a velvety texture. Drink 2028–2038. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOThe 2020 Barolo Brea Vigna Ca’ Mia expresses all the magic of this Serralunga site. Wild herbs, menthol, licorice, incense, crushed flowers, mint and sage all run through a deep, layered Barolo that hits all the right notes. Here, too, the tannins feel remarkably polished for a young Barolo, especially one from Serralunga. Readers will have a hard time keeping their hands off of this. The 2020 has been totally alluring in several recent tastings.Vinous Media | 95 VMThis Barolo from the Brea cru is an elegant and captivating wine. High-toned aromas of tart red currants, pomegranate, and wild raspberries are complemented by subtle savory notes and a mix of clove, cinnamon, and nutmeg spices. The palate is fine, earthy, and beautifully balanced, with a precise structure and silky tannins that seamlessly integrate with the vibrant fruit flavors. The lasting, haunting finish leaves a memorable impression. Drink 2026-2045. Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEPale ruby, intensely floral with sweet violets, vibrant pomegranate fruit and beguiling eucalyptus and balsamic depth. The palate is soft, ripe and velvety, with elegant tannins, savory character, a medium body and long, refreshing acidity. Super tense and polished in the finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 94 JS

The 2020 Brovia Garblèt Sue’ is fantastic, starting with its enticing aromas of blue flower, wild berry and spice. Full-bodied and delicious, it boasts a weightless concentration that wraps around juicy red cherry, raspberry compote, licorice and dark exotic spice. Velvety tannins lend a smooth texture while fresh acidity keeps it beautifully balanced. This is already accessible but will also offer years of pleasure. Drink 2027–2035. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KOThe nose offers intriguing notes of graphite, earth, wild herbs, and a hint of tart cherry. The palate is round and generous, bursting with succulent blackberries, juicy plums, and a touch of raspberry, balanced by earthy, tea-like tannins. Classic-driven yet sumptuous, this harmonious and expressive wine is truly lifted, showcasing the unique terroir and the winemaker’s skill in capturing the essence of this cru and this vintage. Drink Now - 2045Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEThe 2020 Barolo Garblèt Sue’ is a very pleasant, almost shockingly open young Barolo for this site. Wild flowers, crushed rose petal, anise, mint, spice and blood orange are all beautifully amplified. The Garblèt Sue’ is usually marked by incisive, forbidding tannins, but in 2020 it is pure sensuality. High-toned floral overtones grace the exotic finish. I imagine the 2020 will drink beautifully right out of the gate.Vinous Media | 94 VMExtremely pale ruby, with pungent fresh violet and pomegranate aromas highlighted by cocoa powder and licorice nuances. The palate is delicate and soft, with ripe tannins, refreshing acidity and tension in the chewy and precise finish. Drinkable now, but best from 2029.James Suckling | 94 JS

The 2020 Rocche di Castiglione from Brovia is gorgeous. Embodying the finesse the site is celebrated for, it boasts enticing scents of wild rose, iris, perfumed berry and botanical herb. Sleek and elegant, the smooth palate offers juicy red cherry, crushed strawberry and star anise set against lithe, refined tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it well balanced. Reflecting the forward nature of the vintage, this is already closing in on the start of its drinking window but will offer years of pleasure. Drink 2025–2035. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOThe 2020 Barolo Rocche di Castiglione is a sexy, racy wine. Pliant and deep, the 2020 is a great example of this site. Soft contours wrap around a core of dark red fruit, kirsch, spice, menthol, new leather and licorice. Time in the glass brings out the wine’s stunning inner perfume, that most Rocche of signatures. Deep and layered, with exceptional balance, the 2020 is a striking, captivating wine that captures the best the vintage had to offer.Vinous Media | 95 VMFloral bouquet of fresh roses and violets, plus bright red cherries and red currants with balsamic depth. This sample is full of sucrosity, with silky, graceful tannins and refreshing lifted acidity. Medium-bodied and tense in the finish. Delicious Barolo to drink or hold.James Suckling | 94 JSA lively and vibrant Barolo that captivates from the first sip! The nose bursts with fresh, tart raspberries and tangy wild strawberries. The palate reveals a concentrated core of tart cherries, cranberries, and redcurrants, complemented by dried rose petals and wild herbs. Refined tannins and lively acidity provide perfect structure to this thoughtful, nuanced, and truly remarkable wine. Drink 2026 - 2045 Wine Enthusiast | 94 WE

Showing great class and precision, Brovia’s fragrant 2020 Villero is a chiseled beauty. Taut and focused, the palate features crushed strawberry, pomegranate and blood orange accented with licorice and pink peppercorn before an almost salty close. A backbone of refined tannins provides firm support. It needs a few more years to fully develop and shows good aging potential for this rather forward vintage. Drink 2029–2036. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOA Villero masterpiece that demands your full attention. The fruit profile is a symphony of classic Nebbiolo notes, with ripe cherries, plums, and a hint of blackberry that’ll make your taste buds sing. The tannins? They’re so fine, they’re like silk threads woven into the fabric of the wine. But don’t be fooled by the elegance – this Barolo has a structure that’ll make you sit up straight and take notice. Savory flavors dance in perfect harmony with the fruit, creating a mesmerizing balance that’ll leave you speechless. This is a wine that’s not just exquisite – it’s unforgettable. Drink 2026 - 2050 Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEWhat a minty nose, elegant, fresh and vibrant, with classic dried cherry fruit, violets, minerals and notes of balsamic. Youthful palate with velvety tannins, crisp acidity, a medium body and a long, savory finish. This young Barolo is intended for the long haul. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JSBrovia’s 2020 Barolo Villero is a potent, savory wine. Dried herbs, menthol, licorice, wildflowers, spice and dark-toned fruit give the Villero its distinctive personality. Broad swaths of tannin wrap it all together. Dark and brooding, the 2020 is not ready to reveal its charms. All this needs is time—I can’t wait to taste it in another few years. As is often the case, the Villero is Barolo that emphasizes savory/earthy/mineral notes more than overt fruit.Vinous Media | 94+ VM

Tasted over lunch, the Soldera Case Basse 2020 100% Sangiovese shows a softly textured profile with beautifully polymerized tannins that create a taut sounding board for notes of cassis, small berry fruit, violets and crushed stone. Made with spontaneous fermentation in oversized vats and aged carefully in the family cellars in surrounding quiet and darkness, this soulful wine remains true to the spirit of Sangiovese, defined by clarity and finesse. The 2020 vintage has an accessible, open-knit character that suits it well and clearly distinguishes it from the more austere 2019 and the super precise 2021. In this context, 2020 offers a softer, more delicate interlude between the two.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe most vivid crushed cherry gives way to rose pastille, sweet lavender and nuances of clove and exotic spice as the exuberant 2020 Toscana Sangiovese comes to life in the glass. It displays pure class on the palate. It’s silken and soothingly round with a pretty mix of ripe strawberry and blueberry that swirl throughout, as crisp mineral tones and a contrasting tinge of sour citrus add unparalleled depth. Incredibly complex yet juicy and spry, the 2020 leaves crunchy tannins that firm up the impossibly long finish without slowing its momentum. I don’t recall ever tasting a young Soldera that showed this much energy and verve. It’s already so pleasurable yet has the balance to mature beautifully over the coming decades.Vinous Media | 97 VMTasted from a 65-hectoliter cask, the 2020 Sangiovese is plush and fruity at this stage, although it’s starting to reveal its mineral underpinnings, with dark blackberry notes, graphite, and violets. Medium to full-bodied, it offers a velvety texture, with ripe and refined tannins, a good deal of meaty richness through the mid-palate, and a seamless structure. There’s both purity and refinement across each of the samples tasted. The 2020 showed a good deal of completeness already prior to bottling and I expect it will have a good deal of cellaring potential.Jeb Dunnuck | 96-99 JD

Perfumed and structured, the compelling 2021 Ravera from Cogno entices with aromas of ripe dark-skinned berry, dark Asian spice, pressed rose and a balsamic whiff of camphor. Boasting succulent fruit, the chiseled palate features ripe black cherry, black raspberry, ground clove, cinnamon and licorice before a salty finish. It has great tension, with firm, fine-grained tannins and bright acidity. Drink 2029–2041. Abv: 14.5%Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOMint, eucalyptus, plum, earth, oak spice and tar notes mark this lean, sinewy red, which is compact despite starting out with an open feel, featuring a core of sweet, ripe fruit midpalate. The assertive tannins require patience, while the aftertaste indicates this wine’s future potential. Best from 2028 through 2050. 625 cases made, 300 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WSThe bright red colour, obtained thanks to a marathon 40-day maceration, anticipates a symphony of aromas: rose petals, citrus, cinnamon, graphite, mint. In the mouth, a refined elegance. Persuasive and framed by silky tannins, the acidity is exhilarating and the crunchy fruit returns on the finish. Partly whole-bunch vinified, using yeasts indigenous to the Ravera sub-zone, then refined only in large barrels. A post-modern Barolo.Decanter Magazine | 97 DECThese vineyards in Novello open to the Alps and an exceptional panorama. The Elvio Cogno 2021 Barolo Ravera is made with the Lampia and Michet clones of Nebbiolo. The wine offers a distinct character with iron ore and crushed stone behind dark fruit and pressed rose. I also get a hint of exotic spice in this gorgeous wine. This is a 14,000-bottle release.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThe 2021 Barolo Ravera is highly expressive and a standout in the range, revealing layers of depth in its underlying notes of balsamic herbs, and its fruit shines brightly with preserved strawberries, wild spices, and crushed flowers. Sourced from 80-year-old vines just below the winery, the palate is saturated with ripe tannins, sanguine mineral richness, a broad-shouldered mid-palate, and a long finish. It’s built to last over the coming two to three decades.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDAromas of orange rind with touches of red fruit and tar. The palate is medium- to full-bodied, very well constructed, with a fine line of acidity, a good core of delineated fruit and polished yet firm tannins. Lovely to taste now, but will be better from 2026.James Suckling | 95 JS

Lavender, eucalyptus, underbrush and dark spice aromas form the nose on the lovely Camigliano 2021 straight Brunello. Taut and full-bodied, the elegantly structured palate features ripe red cherry, wild strawberry, licorice and orange zest accompanied by a backbone of velvety tannins. It’s nicely balanced, with fresh acidity. Drink 2028–2036. Abv: 14.5 % Kerin O’Keefe | 94 KOThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino opens with a bouquet of crushed strawberries and cherries, complicated by cedary spices and nuances of blood orange. It shows the weight and pliancy of its southern roots, with depths of mineral-inflected red berry fruits and mulling spices. The wine tapers off with medium length, gentle structure and a subtle cranberry tinge that pinches at the cheeks.Vinous Media | 93 VMThis has a savory character of cured meat, iron and wet stones, with spices and red berries in the background. The medium- to full-bodied palate is sleek and smoothly integrated, with well-defined yet supple tannins and a fleshy core of red fruit. Bright and juicy. From organically grown grapes. Better from 2027.James Suckling | 93 JSThe Camigliano 2021 Brunello di Montalcino is a certified organic wine that opens with ripe blackberry and blackcurrant followed by an oak-driven tarry and smoky note that adds weight to the bouquet. The aromatic profile is robust and persistent with a clear emphasis on dark fruit grown on the estate’s warmer southwestern exposures, and the palate closes with a hint of sweetness, soft tannins and a fundamentally velvety mouthfeel, making this an immediately approachable Brunello.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RPIn Montalcino’s balmy western extreme, Camigliano was among those significantly hit by frost in 2021. The estate lost up to 90% in its lowest parcels, 30% in the rest. Ripeness and concentration are palpable in this hedonistic offering, yet it avoids jamminess as fruit purity is kept intact. Leather, vanilla and rust permeate the wild red berry core, while soft, plush tannins give luxurious layers that are stratified by sweet acidity. A generous and immediate Brunello with legs and stuffing for the next decade.Decanter Magazine | 91 DEC

Plenty of red currant, cedar, iron and terra cotta aromas follow through to a medium to full body with graphite, sandalwood, red currants and fresh Mediterranean herbs such as thyme and rosemary. The tannins are chewy but polished in texture. This is a Sassicaia that needs three or four years of bottle age to come together and soften. A structured wine for the cellar. Try after 2029.James Suckling | 98 JSThe 2022 Sassicaia is simply brilliant in this vintage, showing a remarkable level of poise and freshness. It opens with a captivating bouquet of ripe blackberries, plum, florals and subtle herbs, underscored by a touch of spice, tobacco and minerals. On the palate, it is medium to full-bodied and well-structured, with velvety tannins and a lively acidity that provides perfect balance. Rich flavors of red/dark fruits, tobacco and spices unfold beautifully, leading to a long, persistent finish that is both refined and elegant. A stunning example of Sassicaia’s pedigree and resilience to thrive year after year.International Wine Report | 98 IWRThe Tenuta San Guido 2022 Bolgheri Sassicaia reveals a beautiful fruit profile with fresh blackberry, tart cherry and Mediterranean tones of blue rosemary blooms and lavender sachet. I tasted this wine several times over the course of a few months, and it has already shown a happy evolution coming into slow focus like the faint colors that emerge from a Polaroid photograph. Indeed, the bouquet appeared more closed just a short while ago. The wine’s strongest suit is its elegantly streamlined mouthfeel and its contained 13.5% alcohol content. These qualities add to the silky cleanness of the mouthfeel and the accessible freshness of this vintage. I am confident that this bottle will improve with time. It requires patience.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97+ RPThe wine is tightly coiled and concentrated. It feels almost cinched at the waist, with a fascinating tension between the weight of raspberry, blackberry and strawberry coulis fruit and the wine’s verticality, as if it’s trying to burst out. Lovely mid-palate sapidity is allied to fresh acidity and fine but dense tannins, making for a dark horse of a Sassicaia that isn’t giving much away today but will greatly reward those who can cellar it for 12 years and more. ‘What is sure is that 2022 will need a lot of time, but will also have a long life,’ said Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta. A hot vintage, 2022 caused the team to work in the newly completed refrigerated warehouses in San Guido, even moving the sorting table inside. Shorter macerations and 23 rather than the more typical 24 or 25 months of ageing in wood helped to maximise the freshness.Decanter Magazine | 97 DECOpening with aromas of menthol, dark spice, blue flower and dark-skinned berry, the 2022 Sassicaia is impressive and defied my expectations. Hailing from what was a notoriously hot, dry year, the estate’s location, including its hillside vineyards, vicinity to the woods plus much-needed rain in August preserved freshness and aromas as did harvesting somewhat earlier than usual, shorter skin maceration and slightly less time in oak. Showing elegant restraint, it’s balanced and tense, delivering flavors of ripe blackberry, wild cherry, licorice and mint. It’s still quite tight and youthfully austere, with a backbone of firm, refined tannins and fresh acidity. Give it time to fully unwind. Drink 2030–2042. Abv: 13.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KOThe 2022 Sassicaia is a very pretty, expressive wine. There’s a bit more Cabernet Sauvignon (and less Franc) in this year’s blend, and that really comes through in the wine’s flavor profile and slightly bruising tannins. Dark cherry, plum, leather, licorice, graphite and incense give the 2022 striking aromatic presence to match its rather brooding personality. There’s a bit of tension in the tannins that needs time to resolve. Yields were down about 20% because of intensely cold weather in spring, variable conditions during flowering and set, and then searing heat and drought throughout the summer.Vinous Media | 94+ VM

One of the few 2022 Tuscan wines where you can really see that this will benefit from a few years in bottle, right now it is, hovering on the edge of something delicious, vibrating over the tannic architecture, feathered, campfire smoke, fennel, blackberry, liquorice and crushed peonies, and the bitter fennel and slate scrape, dense, contrast of textures and flavours like only truly great wines can do, a reflection of skilful construction. A gorgeous wine, slowly stretching out in the palate, 65% new oak for ageing. Harvest began August 9 for the whites, and the reds began August 25 with Masseto, and then a few days later for Ornellaia, one of the earliest on record, with around 38hl/h yield.Jane Ansen | 99 JAA Mediterranean-style wine. Stunning elegance on the nose, with vibrant dried eucalyptus leaves, flowers, restrained brambleberries and hints of black cherries, dried bananas, milk chocolate, cloves and graphite. The palate is full-bodied with elegant tannins and a touch of dust. It’s savory and well packed, with integrated, brilliant freshness and a ripe, fruity finish with a toasty aftertaste of blond tobacco. Try from 2026.James Suckling | 98 JSTasted a few months after it was bottled, the Ornellaia 2022 Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia will be coming to market in March 2025. The blend is 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and 10% Petit Verdot. The wine sees 18 months of aging with up to 70% new oak, but the trick, proprietor Lamberto Frescobaldi tells me, is drawing from a large group of coopers with different toast levels and forests. "I don’t want to make a wine of any one tonnellerie," he says. The oak element is crucial to the identity of this wine that reveals dark fruit, blackberry, sweet spice and cinnamon. Most of the vines were planted in the 1980s, and the average age of the plants is over 20 years old. Fruit comes from many parcels, including Bellaria, Bellaria Nuova, Bellaria Alta, Pero, Fosso, Vigna Vecchia and Stallina. Indeed, some 80 wines are made before final blending. The 2022 vintage will be remembered for its full-bodied appeal, concentrated fruit and generous oak renderings. Petit Verdot plays a slightly larger role in this vintage and was one of the surprise hits of 2022. It serves to elongate the wine and adds to its length. The wine’s abundant fruit weight cedes to elegantly integrated tannins. This vintage will appeal to die-hard Ornellaia enthusiasts.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe 2022 Ornellaia is a terrific wine for the year. Dark red-toned fruit, mocha, new leather, licorice and spice all take shape in a mid-weight, pliant Ornellaia that is quite alluring, even in the early going. The blend is 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and 10% Petit Verdot, unusual for the elevated presence of Petit Verdot, which did better than Franc in 2022. The higher percentage of Petit Verdot comes through in the wine’s dark-leaning personality and also in the quality of tannins. More than anything else, the 2022 is a reminder of how important a tool blending is, especially in challenging years. I can’t wait to see how this ages. The 2022 Ornellaia is clearly among the most successful wines of the vintage.Vinous Media | 96 VMThe 2022 Ornellaia is 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, and 10% each Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. A deep but bright purple/red color, it has a fantastic nose of blackberries, polished cedar, lavender, sweet herbs, and dark cocoa. Full-bodied, it has a rich structure, with warming concentration but a very balanced feel. The tannins are ripe and frame the underlying mineral notes very nicely, its fruity richness fleshing it out harmoniously. It is not a fruity vintage for this wine, though, and its structure leads here. Drink 2027-2050.Jeb Dunnuck | 96+ JDFeaturing a hefty 10% of Petit Verdot this year for an injection of freshness and structure, Ornellaia 2022 is rich, deep and tightly coiled, with some pretty red fruits and floral notes overlaying dark, juicy berries. It’s a dense style which reflects the vintage but looks towards harmony and poise: the woody frame and fine, structural tannins are countered by very good acidity and a bright fruit profile, with some breezy herbs helping to lift the long, fresh finish. Give this some more time in the bottle before enjoying.Decanter Magazine | 96 DECBroad and lush, this red reveals ripe flavors of black currant, black cherry and blackberry shaded with cedar, iron and sweet spices. Balanced, with a few youthful edges that still need polishing. Its fine core of saturated fruit persists on the aftertaste. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Best from 2028 through 2043. 2,165 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WS