Italian Collector Wines

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Predominantly from within the cru of Cerequio on the border between Barolo and La Morra, Conteisa has been produced since 1996. The 2017 Barolo Conteisa has ripe aromas of red cherry, cinnamon, and licorice. The palate is forward and gushing with raspberry leather, iron-rich earth, and tobacco leaf. This is the most generous and giving of the three wines in this tasting, yet at the same time remains noble. Drink 2022-2042.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDFabulous aromas of ripe strawberry and raspberry with hazelnut and citrus follow through to a medium to full body with ultra-fine tannins and a racy and refined finish. It’s so fresh for the vintage and goes on for minutes. A classy and great wine. Better after 2025.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2017 Barolo Conteisa is rich, ample and inviting. Sweet pipe tobacco, cedar and dried flowers lend captivating aromatic presence to the Gaja family’s La Morra Barolo. Even so, the 2017 is quite closed today, which is rather unusual for a wine that is typically far more open in the early going. That’s probably a good sign for the future, though. Time in the glass brings out the classic Conteisa red-toned fruit profile. More than anything else, I am so impressed with how the 2017 gets better and better with air. This is a terrific showing. Sadly, production is down by about 50% because of severe selection.Antonio Galloni | 96 AGThe Gaja 2017 Barolo Conteisa opes to an immediate sense of dimension and textural width that distinguishes this hot growing season. In this case, that additional volume and power are expertly contained and refined in this wine with fruit from the Cerequio vineyard of Barolo. Cerequio saw hail damage in 2016 and was more fortunate this year; however, the site generally remains quite protected from extreme weather conditions (compared to its adjacent vineyards). This wine excels most noticeably in terms of mouthfeel. The finish is silky and long and those more astringent 2017 tannins are gracefully absent here.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95+ RPGaja manages two different plots in Cerequio, from where most of the grapes for Conteisa come. Both exposures - southeast and east - mark the character of this wine. If Sperss is the Yin, Conteisa would be the Yang: It’s dark fruited with black cherry and plum complemented by graceful wild herbs and mint, and a bloody, olive-like savouriness. Full-bodied and crisp, the tannins are firm, thick and dusty yet evolved. Drinking Window 2021 - 2040.Decanter | 95 DECExpressing balsamic aromas and flavors of soy, eucalyptus, wild thyme and tobacco, this Barolo also delivers ripe plum and cherry midpalate, with earth and tar accents rounding out the profile. Gruff tannins mark the finish, so be patient. Best from 2025 through 2045. 650 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WSAromas of French oak and roasted coffee bean lead the nose along with whiffs of pressed rose petal, eucalyptus and the barest hint of berry. The firm, full-bodied palate offers licorice, coconut, vanilla and dried cherry alongside assertive, close-grained tannins. You’ll also feel the warmth of alcohol on the close. Drink 2025–2032.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WE

Absolutely compelling, this arresting wine opens with classic Nebbiolo aromas of rose petal, camphor, star anise and wild berries. Structured but also smooth as silk, the firm yet elegant palate features ripe Marasca cherry, blood orange, licorice and white pepper framed in tightly woven, ultrarefined tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it well-balanced while a saline note lingers on the long finish. Drink 2027–2042.Wine Enthusiast | 99 WEThe charm of Vignarionda is its ability to express the austere character of Serralunga alongside stunning finesse. Giovanni Rossi, with his Ester Canale selection, is one of the vineyard’s best examples. Very pale ruby in colour (no garnet here!), it has restrained notes of rhubarb flavoured boiled sweets and earthy strawberry, with whiffs of cypress and rose petal . Firm, concentrated but polished, bracing acidity is followed by savoury strawberry and citrus flavours, with an amazing depth of watermelon rind, rhubarb root and liquorice. A sleek wine built to last. Drinking Window 2021 - 2040.Decanter | 97 DECThe core of cherry flavor runs deep in this intense red, along with notes of eucalyptus, licorice, iron and a hint of flowers. Retreats into a compact stance, with resonant tannins, yet there is an overall finesse and gracefulness that cannot be denied. Best from 2025 through 2047. 250 cases made, 25 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSThe 2017 Barolo Vigna Rionda comes across as a bit monolithic and closed, as if the aromas and flavors are not fully developed. Firm, edgy tannins suggest these vines may have suffered under the stressful conditions of the warm, dry growing season.Antonio Galloni | 92 AG

The 2017 Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda is flat out stunning. All the purest essence of Rionda comes through in a captivating Barolo that dazzles. Sweet red cherry fruit, kirsch, rose petal, licorice and blood orange are some of the many aromas and flavors that lift from the glass. Exotic and racy, the 2017 is a flat-out stunner. Now, for the million dollar question. Is it better than the 2016? Right now, I give an edge to the 2017 for its greater finesse and total sense of exotic beauty. But time will be the judge. I do look forward to tasting the 2016 and 2017 side by side!Vinous Media | 98 VMThis is a gorgeous wine, and although it could stand more years of aging, you’re not wrong to enjoy it in the near or medium term either. The 2017 Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda is packed tight with dark fruit, but it also shows a delicately savory edge with black licorice and rusty metal. The wine’s intensity and the mouthfeel are sublime. Aging sees it go into botte for 36 months followed by another 36 months in bottle before its release. Production is 12,500 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPA traditional style with long fermentation and maceration in oak vats at a temperature of around 30°C, then aged in large Slavonian oak barrels for up to 42 months, followed by a further 24 months in the bottle. The nose is impressively fresh and vibrant, with a mix of white pepper, watermelon, wild strawberry and mint leaf. Less restrained than usual, on the palate the attack is firm, still young, and chewy, with brilliant long acidity and a cherry kernel finish. It deserves time to develop more complexity.Decanter | 96 DECThe 2017 Massolino Vigna Rionda Barolo Riserva has a super-bright clarity and intensity to its ruby color. On the nose, sweet red fruits combine with just-ripe cherry, wild rose and gentle cream notes but everything is beautifully restrained and elegant. On the palate it has a very lovely, silky and fine texture with flavors similar to the aromas. The tannins are super-refined but with plenty of chalky density - this vineyard is in Serralunga after all - a commune famous for its tannins! The finish is mouth-wateringly fresh. What a super-pure, bright and vivacious wine! Keep three to four years, but it will drink well for probably 35 to 40.The Wine Independent | 96 TWINotes of wild strawberries and sour cherries with dried flowers and chocolate orange undertones. Medium- to full-bodied, very polished and fine-grained, showcasing subtle notes of red fruit with a mineral backbone. Even and balanced with a textural finish. Great to drink after 2025 but will age further.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2017 Vigna Rionda from Massolino impresses with aromas of forest floor, leather, camphor, wild berry and a whiff of blue flower. It’s brooding and firm, featuring dried cherry, crushed mint, cake spice and tangy mineral framed in tightly-knit, fine-grained tannins. Surprisingly fresh acidity keeps it lifted.It’s a phenomenal showing for what was such a dry, scorching vintage. Drink 2029–2037. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KO

Dried strawberry with some cherry, nutmeg and spice. Some dried meat, too. Full-bodied, chewy and rich with integration and focus. The tannins are really put together beautifully. Long and intense. Tight at the end. This needs at least four or five years to open. Try after 2025.James Suckling | 99 JSThe 2017 Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata is a pleasant, easygoing Barolo from Roberto Voerzio. Lifted, perfumed Rocche aromatics meld into a core of crushed red berry fruit, rose petal, blood orange and spice. The 2017 is a bit more nervy than most vintages, but the brisk tannins help convey a measure of freshness that is quite welcome in this vintage. The 2017 is a solid wine, but far from inspiring.Vinous Media | 90 VM

The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino La Cerbaiola grows in intensity in the glass, with delicate aromas that are especially floral and light in character. Instead of blackberry or blackcurrant, this elegant wine delivers cassis and cranberry. Instead of overt spice, you get licorice, balsam herb and camphor ash. The Salvioni house style is ethereal and light, and although that extra vintage ripeness and concentration does register on the palate, farming and winemaking at this estate puts an emphasis on acidity over power or structure. These choices were particularly important in 2017.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPRoses upon roses, wild strawberries, dusty cedar spice box, mint leaf and a hint of wet stone open the stage for the 2017 Brunello di Montalcino from Salvioni. This is beauty personified in wine, and it’s completely atypical for the harshly warm and dry vintage conditions. It fleshes out across the palate like fine silk, concentrated and poised, yet without a hard edge in sight, as cherries and plums give way to mounting minerality and sweet tannins toward the close. The 2017 boasts a crystalline structure and dramatic inner floral perfumes, as hints of cranberry and clove taper off. While this may not show the impeccable grace of the most classic vintages, it’s a darling all the same and has medium-term cellaring potential.Vinous Media | 94 VMWhen I visited Alessia Salvioni at the end of August 2017, she said the challenge for the imminent harvest would be avoiding dried grapes. The grapes were brought in on 12 September, approximately 10 days earlier than average. Aromas of sun-kissed cherries and blackberry speak to the warmth but there’s no sign of over-ripeness. Pepper, sage and cedar add fragrant intrigue, while the palate is surprisingly lean and sinewy, demonstrating Sangiovese’s lightness. Very direct in its delivery, its gritty tannins will need a bit of time but I don’t see this as one of Salvioni’s most long-lived vintages. Drinking Window: 2023 - 2029Decanter | 92 DEC

This is one of those wines where your nose is in the glass for ages, enjoying the complex array of aromas that range from raspberries to dates, perfumed bark to polished wood, pressed flowers to fresh mushrooms. Full-bodied, dense and focused with fine, well-integrated tannins, plenty of fruit flavor and an endless finish. A joy to drink even now, but this will age gracefully for many a year.James Suckling | 98 JSThe 2017 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Sergio Zenato is totally classic to the Zenato style, with macerated cherries, raisins, sweet herbs, cocoa, black pepper and shavings of cedar. This deeply textural with a dense wave of mineral-encased dark red fruits and balsamic spice carried across a core of stimulating acidity. Mocha and clove mix with black currant and olive as the 2017 finishes dramatically long and potent. There’s simply so much going on here, and more is guaranteed to come with maturation. Also of note is that the 2017 clocks in at only 3.3 grams of residual sugar. This is as serious as they comeVinous Media | 97 VM

The 2018 Barolo Sperss is a gorgeous, gorgeous wine. The aromatics alone are beguiling. Then again, that’s one of the things that makes Barolo such a totally seductive wine. Sweet black cherry, lavender, spice and leather give this unusually translucent Barolo striking layers of dimension. Potent Serralunga tannins are present, but they are beautifully woven into the wine’s fabric. Sadly, production is around 11,000 bottles, down sharply from the 18,000 or so that is more typical.Antonio Galloni | 97 AGLots of rose-petal aromas here, together with some stems and sandalwood, as well plums and berries. Medium-bodied with a tight palate and very fine tannins that run the length of the wine. Linear and focused. Hints of nutmeg and pie crust highlight the palate. Approachable. now, but needs at last three or four years to open. Try after 2026.James Suckling | 95 JS

The 2018 Il Caberlot is a stunning wine. It’s not the most immediate nor explosive Caberlot, but it is such a tremendous example of this wine. The bouquet alone is mesmerizing. Crushed herbs, rose petal, mint, blood orange, incense and sweet pipe tobacco all build in the glass. Imagine Cheval Blanc, but with a good dose of Tuscan sun. Readers who can find the 2018 should not hesitate, as it is magical. I imagine it will be even better in the commercial magnums than this 750ml tasting sample.Antonio Galloni | 100 AG(Il Caberlot “Trentesimo”- Podere Il Carnasciale) The 2018 is the thirtieth vintage of Il Caberlot ever produced by Podere Il Carnasciale, so the Rogosky family has naturally noted this on the label with the “Trentesimo” moniker to mark the occasion. I have to also note my satisfaction at receiving a sample of this wine in a regular-sized bottle (remember that Il Caberlot is only commercialized in magnums), with the label dutifully reporting it as a “demi-magnum”. The wine is an absolute classic in the making, offering up a pure and complex nose of cassis, dark berries, a touch of Tuscan herb tones, Cuban cigar wrapper, a beautiful base of soil tones and a deft framing of cedary new oak. On the palate the wine is pure, refined and full-bodied, with a fine core of black fruit, lovely soil inflection, ripe, buried tannins and a long, superbly balanced and seamless finish. I love the sense of grace here, as the wine comes in at 13.5 percent octane and shows a beautiful synthesis of perfectly ripe fruit and classical aesthetic sensibilities. What a wine to mark the thirtieth anniversary vintage of Il Caberlot! (Drink between 2032-2080)John Gilman | 96 JGCompelling aromas of truffle, violet, raspberry and cherry draw you in, while the supple texture and vibrant structure hold your attention. Balanced and open, this red is appealing from beginning to end. Caberlot. Drink now through 2029. 800 cases made, 120 cases imported. Wine Spectator | 94 WSImpressive aromas of sage, mint and currants follow through to a full body with round, fine tannins that are nicely integrated into the wine. Fresh and vivid finish. Very balanced and attractive. Drink in 2023 and onwards, but already very attractive.James Suckling | 94 JS

Sweet and succulent aromas of tangerines, freshly cut ripe strawberries, cherries and flowers follow through to a full-bodied palate with sleek and dense tannins that run the length of the wine and then fan out into a dense, vivid finish of fruit. It’s chewy and seriously structured with finesse and energy. Silky texture. This needs at least four or five years to come together and open. Try after 2027.James Suckling | 98 JS

So perfumed and complex, with tangerines, jasmine, cedar, black truffle and iron. Full-bodied and very structured. Fantastic structure for the vintage. Very Barolo-like in structure. Available in 2023. Give this at least four or five years to soften.James Suckling | 98 JS

Cherry, flower and cedar aromas follow through to a full body with lots of pure and juicy fruit character. Creamy and savory with a crushed bean and cherry aftertaste. Defining today’s Brunello with purity and perfection of fruit. Making the most of an outstanding vintage. A selection from a seven-hectare parcel of 50-year-old vines. Drink after 2026.James Suckling | 100 JSWow, this wine steals the show. A new addition to the Casanova di Neri portfolio now in its second year, the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Giovanni Neri pays tribute to Giacomo Neri’s father and represents a stylistic shift to the most elegant side of Montalcino. The wine reveals a very nuanced bouquet with toasted cherry pit, Luxardo syrup and balsam herb. There is dark slate and stony mineral that dovetail into a very clean and pretty earthiness. The tannins are slightly sweeter compared to other wines from this vintage, and there are fragrant tones of heritage rose and lilac. The ratio between tannin and fruit is excellent, and I can see this wine aging long into the future. Production is 9,600 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RP

In my mind, this is the wine that best represents the Casanova di Neri house style. With 30 months of aging in tonneaux, it shows enormous richness and texture, and the stellar fruit quality appears with more primary elegance compared to the more expensive Cerretalto that is released with an extra year of aging. That dynamic is especially pronounced in a comparison of the 2019 and 2018 vintages. The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova has a dark vein of toasted spice, black fruit, ink, blackberry compote, licorice and star anise. Dark as night, it is exceptionally well crafted with a robust delivery of concentrated fruit and solid tannic structure. You can count on excellent cellar potential, or at a minimum, serve it with a classic steak. Production is exactly 69,696 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPBlack cherries with violets and other flowers on the nose. Full-bodied with chewy tannins and a juicy finish. Needs time to soften. Give it three to five years of bottle age. Better after 2025.James Suckling | 96 JS

The Castello Romitorio 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Filo di Seta reaches a whole other level of intensity and brilliance with dark fruit, blackberry, an etched mineral quality, petrichor and wet slate that gives this wine an incredibly etched and lively presentation. The tannins are velvety and perfectly match the generous texture of this beautiful Sangiovese. Only later, you start to notice the delicate tones of purple flower and iris root that give this wine such an elegant finish. This is a cellar keeper. There are 9,000 bottles of this wine.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Filo di Seta tempts the imagination with a burst of mentholated herbs that give way to sweet violet florals, crushed blackberries and mint. This is deeply textural, nearly creamy in feel, with a core of vibrant acidity to balance as a wave of ripe red and traces of blue fruit flood the palate. Its minerality comes through the finish, mingling with edgy tannins, tart cranberry and orange, yet the mouth is left watering for more. This truly seductive rendition of Filo di Seta will surely win many hearts. While more accessible out of the gate, in the context of how austere it can often be, the balance here guarantees a long and beautiful evolution over time.Vinous Media | 96+ VMBlack cherries, plums and floral notes with subtle, underlying citrus character. Full-bodied and structured. Chewy yet fine-grained tannins. Healthy and vibrant. Persistent length and depth. Give it more time to soften. Better after 2028.James Suckling | 94 JS

The 2019 Barolo Monvigliero shows a medium dark garnet appearance with an especially focused quality of fruit. There is wild cherry and Japanese plum, but the Monvigliero cru also delivers crushed rose, earthy iris root, candied orange peel with clove and dustings of black pepper. The wine is exceedingly silky and polished in texture, but its inherent complexity is never diminished. It should be interesting to revisit this bottle after the 10-year mark. This estate was the first to bottle a Monvigliero in 1978, and today 7,000 bottles are made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe 2019 Barolo Monvigliero, tasted from barrel, is fabulous. Silky and elegant, with tons of energy, the Monvigliero is showing beautifully today, even as a sample from tank with low SO2 typical of this stage pre-bottling. Even so, all the translucent finesse of Monvigliero comes through loud and clear. Crushed red berry fruit, chalk, blood orange, mint and white pepper lend brightness. The 2019 is shaping up to be a real beauty. It’s one of those young wines that is very hard to spit.Vinous Media | 94-96 VMThe 2019 Barolo Monvigliero is layered with cinnamon, red cherry, white pepper, and apricot and is dry, elegant, and medium-bodied on the palate, with fine tannins and mouthwatering salinity. Revealing notes of orange pith, warming spice, and pomegranate seed, it is long on the palate with a linear approach. Drink 2025-2045.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDFratelli Alessandria’s 2019 Monvigliero is full-bodied and delicious, delivering flavors of raspberry compote, blood orange, licorice and tobacco enveloped in velvety tannins. It’s bold but also possesses an almost weightless finesse, and thanks to the fruit richness, you’d never guess this has an abv of 15%. Drink 2026–2039. Abv: 15% Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KOFirst produced in 1978, the vines on this 1.4ha plot are now 50 years old. Traditional winemaking with long maceration and ageing in botti grandi. Dense and ruby in colour, the nose is restrained: earthy, with dried mushroom, rose and violet, cinnamon, and fresh pomegranate. Vibrant, savoury and delicate yet chewy on the palate, its tannins are extracted but polished, and a bit rigid on the finish. Not really ready to drink; a structure that defies time.Decanter | 90 DEC

Gaja’s 2019 Barbaresco was bottled only a few days before this tasting but it already has sweet roses and red fruits on the nose with very subtle, gentle spice notes. It has a great texture and flows gracefully across the palate. It feels very harmonious with plenty of refreshing acidity and finely integrated tannins. Sublimely elegant with a fine, silt-like texture to the tannins, it is poised, beautifully understated and charming. Keep for 2 years and drink for up to 20 plus.The Wine Independent | 97 TWIHeady aromas of rose, violet, forest berry and a whiff of oak-driven spice shape the nose. Smooth and full-bodied, the elegantly structured palate delivers crushed raspberry, licorice and coffee bean set against taut, fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity. Drink 2025–2034.Kerin O’Keefe July 2022 | 96 KO(Gaja Barbaresco Red) Gaja’s 2019 Barbaresco is gorgeous. Bright and nervy, with fabulous balance, the 2019 captures all the best this tricky vintage had to offer. Gaja did not bottle any other Barbaresco crus, opting to use the best lots for this bottling. That decision paid off in a 2019 that sizzles with tension. The aromatics alone are captivating. Bright acids lend vibrancy to a core of beautifully delineated Nebbiolo fruit. I can’t wait to see how this ages. (Drink between 2025-2039)Antonio Galloni | 93+ AG

The 2019 Barolo Conteisa is a noble wine, with angular and drying tannins, as well as more mineral expression. Notes of medicinal herbs, crushed stones, and pure cherry lead to a wine that is more restrained right now but will be fantastic. Through the palate, it has compact but wonderful concentration and a driving structure and is more herbaceous, savory, and mineral than fruity and floral. It is outstanding. Drink the 2020s while waiting for the 2019s.Jeb Dunnuck | 98-100 JDThe compelling Gaja 2019 Barolo Conteisa is radiant, austere and elegantly structured. It’s also fragrant, with enticing scents of rose, blue flower, wild herb and dark spice that give way to intense flavors of raspberry, cherry, star anise and menthol. Firm, refined tannins provide support while bright acidity keeps it energized and balanced. Drink 2029–2049. What a beauty. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOA powerful and tannic wine with mushroom, forest flower, bark, and black tea aromas and flavors. Full and chewy. This is a young nebbiolo that needs time to soften. Better after 2029.James Suckling | 94 JS

Alessandro Mori’s wines are easy to spot in a blind tasting thanks to the soaring intensity and vibrant Sangiovese aromas they display. They are truly one of a kind. A wine that sees a relatively short and hot fermentation, the Il Marroneto 2019 Brunello di Montalcino respects local winemaking tradition and remains true in spirit. The steep verticality of the bouquet evokes almost-carbonic or lifted aromas of bright cherry, strawberry shortcake, lilac and heritage rose. You get straight to the heart of Sangiovese. The tannins are extremely fine and powdery and the freshness of the fruit is beautifully intact. This wine really pops in 2019.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThere is nothing shy about the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino at this initial tasting from the barrel, and it feels nearly complete at this youthful stage. It is generous and jumps from the glass with explosive fruit of blackberry, cassis, crushed violets, and smoky earth. Full-bodied, with a polished and rounded texture, it offers ripe, velvety tannins and is forward, with a sunny and ripe profile. At this point, it feels as if this wine will be more accessible early on, although with significant aging potential.Jeb Dunnuck | 94-97 JDIacopo Mori described the 2019 vintage as ‘perfect, no disease...lots of fantastic grapes,’ when he visited Decanter in December 2023. Indeed, 2019 is looking superb across the board. Il Marroneto’s Brunello di Montalcino 2019 has the most incredible scent; an enticing waft of aromatic cherry and fragrant violets. In the mouth it’s supremely precise, with a silky texture and sweet red fruits. Intense, chiselled and sapid, there’s a bewitching pureness and delicacy here. Delicious.Decanter | 97 DECA cascade of bright cherry, rose buds, lavender and cedary spice wafts up from the whimsically perfumed 2019 Brunello di Montalcino. This is surprisingly juicy yet quite complex, with hints of zesty orange and vibrant acidity that add tremendous energy as crisp clove-inflected red fruits drench the senses. It finishes with cheek-puckering tannins, yet they are sweet and round. The 2019 tapers off spicy and fresh, leaving lingering mint, violets and sweet herbal tea notes. Don’t be fooled by its energy and approachability; the 2019 holds a massive amount of power in reserve. This is a spell-binding Brunello from Il Marroneto.Vinous Media | 95 VM

It has a supremely enticing nose.. With the 2019 there is an added precision to the aromas, less heavy oak, and no greenness on the palate. It is concentrated with a rich velvety texture but without any heaviness and with a gentle unforced quality. The tannins are fine and very well integrated, in fact finer and better integrated than even the excellent 2016 vintage. It is of course very young now but it’s almost too delicious not to drink! Supremely graceful, it just gets better and better.TWI | 100 TWIThe 2019 Cepparello has closed down quite a bit since I tasted it last year, as if all of its energy is focused inward. That won’t be an issue in another few years’ time, but for now readers should resist any temptation to open bottles. Time in the glass brings out gorgeous Sangiovese fruit, along with hints of blood orange, spice, cedar, mint and tobacco, all wrapped together by plush, silky contours. The purity of the fruit is just striking. In 2019, Cepparello is more finesse than power. I expect it will age beautifully over the next several decades.Antonio Galloni | 96 AGSo much licorice and fennel seed with black cherry and a hint of tomato paste. Medium body, round texture and savory flavors. Pretty and fresh at the end, with subtle flavors. Drink now or hold.James Suckling | 94 JS

Camphor, forest floor, cedar and rose aromas come to the forefront on Sandrone’s stunning 2019 Barolo Aleste. It’s racy and youthfully austere, delivering red cherry, pomegranate, star anise, cedar and white pepper framed in tightly wound, fine-grained tannins. Bright acidity keeps it energized and beautifully balanced. This needs several years to fully unwind and shows serious aging potential. Drink 2029–2049. Abv: 14.5%Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOAleste is a contraction of the names Alessia and Stefano, grandchildren of the late Luciano Sandrone. With fruit from Cannubi Boschis, the 2019 Barolo Aleste shows important richness and structure. This is the proverbial Barolo with a capital B. It reveals thick layers of dark fruit, cherry and spice. It shows sweet tannins and impactful texture. When tasting at the winery, Le Vigne is usually served first, and Aleste comes after that. Both wines promise a very long aging window.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe 2019 Barolo Aleste is another stellar wine from Sandrone. Like Le Vigne, the Aleste is a tightly wound ball of energy. Dark cherry, mocha, plum, licorice and lavender all race across the palate. This racy, but youthfully austere Barolo has a ton to offer. There’s more density and a darker profile than in the Le Vigne, sort of like a soloist to Le Vigne’s orchestra.Vinous Media | 97 VMAn integrated and well-crafted Barolo with flowers and lemon peel to the cherry and strawberry aromas. Medium-bodied with chewy tannins and a linear drive throughout. Tight and muscular. Well formed. Drink after 2027.James Suckling | 95 JS

Rose, menthol, star anise and baking spice are just some of the aromas that appear on the gorgeous Sandrone Barolo Le Vigne 2019. Focused, elegant and savory, the vibrant palate offers juicy red cherry, spiced cranberry, crushed mint and ground clove before a licorice close. A backbone of fine-grained tannins provide support while bright acidity keeps it impeccably balanced and loaded with energy and tension. What a stunner. Drink 2027–2044. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOThe 2019 Barolo Le Vigne is a historic blend of fruit from Baudana in Serralunga d’Alba, Villero in Castiglione Falletto, Vignane in Barolo and Merli in Novello. This year, a fifth site was added to the final blend. It is the Le Coste MGA in Barolo with south-facing exposures and 45-year-old vines in a two-hectare parcel. The backbone of this wine is Baudana, and Merli adds freshness. The wine needs more time in bottle, but already it proves generous and bold with dark fruit, spice and crushed mineral.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97+ RPThe 2019 Barolo Le Vigne is pure and total seduction. Kirsch, sweet pipe tobacco, mint, cedar, dried herbs and orange peel all grace a Le Vigne built on mid-weight structure and energy. There is a feeling of youthful classicism and austerity that is so beguiling. Readers should plan on being patient, though. The 2019 won’t be ready to drink anytime soon, but there is enough fruit to make me think it will be superb, in time.Vinous Media | 97 VMVery aromatic with hibiscus, crab apple, orange blossom, and ripe strawberry on the nose. Full-bodied, very layered and powerful, yet it remains very fine textured with an intense finish. Slightly more structured than before. Perhaps due to the addition of wines from a new vineyard? Try after 2027.James Suckling | 97 JS

Balsamic aromas of camphor mingle with pressed rose, wild berry, new leather and dark spice. Showing intensity and structure, the full-bodied, delicious palate boasts a weightless concentration, delivering fleshy raspberry, blood orange, almond liqueur and licorice alongside tightly woven, velvety tannins. Fresh acidity lifts the rich flavors and provides great balance. Drink 2028–2039. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KOThe 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà is redolent of dark fruit, crushed rocks, graphite, sage, menthol and lavender all race across the palate, supported by bracing, young Rabajà tannins that make themselves felt. This mid-weight, powerhouse Barbaresco packs quite a punch.Vinous Media | 94 VM

The 2019 Barolo Lazzarito continues a trend seen in recent years in which the focus has been more about finesse than raw power. Intense red fruit, iron, dried herbs, chalk, dried rose petal and white pepper all run through this deep, virile Barolo. The power and intensity of Serralunga really come alive on the heady, explosive finish. Bright saline notes linger on the deep, resonant finish. A Barolo of raw, unbridled power, the Lazzarito demands patience.Vinous Media | 97 VM