Italian Collector Wines

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Smooth and delicious, the 2019 Salicutti Sorgente Brunello is gorgeous. The latest vintages are among the best I’ve had from Salicutti, and this wine is the best of all so far. It delivers classic Sangiovese aromas of violet, ripe forest berry, underbrush, leather and spice that on the delicious palate become more defined as ripe Morello cherry, raspberry, licorice and tobacco. Firm, ultra-refined tannins offer enveloping support while bright acidity keeps it balanced. Drink 2029–2039. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOThe highest of Salicutti’s vineyards, Sorgente sits on heavier clay with a slight incline to the southwest. It is usually the last to be picked and was previously destined for the estate’s Rosso di Montalcino – yet this 2019 makes for a very convincing Brunello, demonstrating Sangiovese’s ability to soar weightlessly while reaching great depths. A splendid precision of peony, red currant blossom and red cherry aromas accompanies a sumptuousness to the palate, where plump red plum and watermelon are underscored by brilliant citrussy acidity. Suede-like tannins seem almost an afterthought, yet hold this wine together effortlessly. Just 3,000 bottles produced.Decanter | 97 DECThis wine comes from a vineyard site with compact clay soils and sees extended skin maceration. It comes as no surprise therefore to find extra concentration and intensity in the Salicutti 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Sorgente. This is a wine of impeccable balance that pits dark fruit weight against lifted, almost ethereal aromas. This is a difficult line to walk, and the Sorgente proceeds beautifully. On the one hand, you get a warm toasted note of roasted chestnut, brioche or sweet challah bread, and on the other, you get tart redcurrant and grenadine. There is an upward fruit crescendo that matches the chalky, fine-grained nature of the tannins. This wine ends on the proverbial high note. To think that Sorgente used to make the estate’s Rosso di Montalcino, and now it has come this far.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPBlack-cherry, bark, rose-stem and tea aromas follow through to a medium body with firm tannins and a tight, chewy finish. Reductive and holding back. From organically grown grapes. Better after 2028.James Suckling | 96 JSThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Sorgente is like a veritable florist shop on the nose, blending roses and jasmine with lavender and wet stone before giving way to dried strawberries. It sweeps across the palate with textures of pure silk energized by zesty acidity as mineral-laced wild berry fruits add a crunchy sensation toward the close. The 2019 finishes with a pleasantly bitter tinge. An herbal thrust and flinty tannins clamp down hard, reminding the taster that this youthful Brunello is just at the start of its long journey to maturity.Vinous Media | 94+ VM

The Salicutti 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Piaggione shows macerated aromas of cherry skin with a punchy, almost carbonic-adjacent quality that gives vibrancy and energy to the bouquet. Fruit comes from a site with lots of rocks and rich limestone soils. The bouquet starts off with tart pomegranate or rainier cherry, delivered with pinpoint directness, and then opens to embrace softer tones of underbrush, toasted fennel seed and cumin. The oak is almost invisible, although you do feel the enriched texture and the wine’s powdery tannins. The wine ends on a glossy note, but ultimately those tannins do stick around and you feel them for a long while.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPAlso expressive, the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino Piaggione is ruby with a magenta tinge and offers notes of raspberry liqueur, violets, and polished wood spices. Refined with fine tannins and a very balanced texture, it’s velvety and has a long finish. Drink 2025-2045.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDCamphor, dark culinary spice, fragrant purple flower and a whiff of forest floor greet the nose on the compelling 2019 Salicutti Piaggione. It’s full-bodied and loaded with finesse, delivering flavors of juicy Marasca cherry, licorice, almond liqueur and blood orange before an almost salty finish. Polished tannins keep it smooth. A fantastic wine. Drink 2029–2039. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOThe Piaggione vineyard is characteristic of southeast Montalcino. Rising steeply from 380 to 450 metres, it is bathed in the morning sun and caressed by winds from Monte Amiata. As it tends to give the estate’s most muscular wines, it was typically bottled as a Riserva before the estate changed hands. This 2019 is deceptively easygoing at first, with very lifted lavender and violet aromas that echo on the sweet-fruited palate. With time in the glass, however, its serious side is revealed as balsamic herbs and earthy undertones join the floral top notes. The palate tightens up as brisk acidity accentuates the dense, chewy tannins, and stony minerals build through the dark cherry core.Decanter | 95 DECPeppery roses and lavender slowly give way to crushed wild berries and tangerine as the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Piaggione dazzles the senses. This is a model of purity, with racy acidity and cool-toned minerality setting the stage for its crisp red and blue fruits. A web of fine-grained tannins slowly saturates the palate. The 2019 finishes classically dry and firm while leaving tart raspberry and licorice to linger. There’s an exoticism to the 2019 Piaggione that I find wildly attractive.Vinous Media | 94 VMAl-dente fruit comes through on the nose, with fresh cherries and flowers, following through to a medium body with firm, silky tannins. Tight and focused with spices, stones and berries at the end. A little reductive. Built for aging. From organically grown grapes. Needs three or four years to open and come around. Drink after 2027.James Suckling | 94 JS