Italy Wines

wines

A luscious red with dried berry, cherry and hints of cedar and tea. Full body, fine and velvety tannins and a long and flavorful finish. This is compacted and tight with great depth. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2012 Colore is on the market now. Production of 2013 and 2014 was skipped, and the next vintage we shall see (very soon) is 2015, which is also reviewed in this report. This vintage produced large berry sizes for Sangiovese—something Bibi Graetz is always happy to see because it is an indicator of elegance and finesse within the context of the house style. If you consider this wine, his observation makes perfect sense. This warm vintage is powerful and rich in its natural state, so any additional berry density might easily lead to overextraction and heaviness. However, the mouthfeel is objectively thinner and more compact in this vintage. Colore represents a blend of Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino in equal parts. The bouquet is redolent of wild berry, dried cherry and toasted spice. This vintage offers a very attractive mineral note as well. Fruit is selected from three of Bibi Graetz’s favorite vineyards with ancient vines: Lamole (in Chianti Classico), Vincigliata and Siena. Only 5,000 bottles were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPMuscular and concentrated, yet with a sense of elegance derived from vibrant acidity, this red displays black cherry, blackberry, leather, iron and tobacco flavors. Consistent from the start to the long finish. Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino. Best from 2020 through 2028. 100 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSA tricky year with a very hot dry summer that resulted in low yields, but also marked by a wet September. The sour-cherry nose is fresh and lively. It’s medium-bodied but still quite concentrated, and while no blockbuster, it has density. It lacks some flesh and weight of fruit, resulting in a somewhat hollow mid-palate, but it’s attractive and already drinking well. Drinking Window 2021 - 2026.Decanter | 90 DEC

Lots of blackberry and other dark-berry character in addition to stones and currants. Full, tight and focused with chewy tannins and a long and linear finish. Needs three to four years of bottle age to soften. Powerful.James Suckling | 97 JSThe best vintages of Solaia are 1990, 1994, 1997, 1999, 2001, 2004, 2007, 2010 and now 2013. Marchesi Antinori’s 2013 Solaia is a profound and meaningful wine that is based mostly on Cabernet Sauvignon with Sangiovese and Cabernet Franc in supporting roles. It sports a dark and thick texture with plump fruit and spice, grilled herb and black pepper. The bouquet is intense and layered with the kind of complexity that is best admired as the wine shifts and evolves in the glass. The textual impact is also impressive—you feel the inherent power and the structure, but these elements are never overdone. The best is yet to come; this Solaia is built for long cellar aging.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97+ RPThe 2013 Solaia from magnum is a special wine. I spent a month in Tuscany that year, so my memories of the growing season are many. In the glass, the 2013 is exquisitely perfumed, vibrant and wonderfully nuanced. I wouldn’t plan on opening bottles anytime soon, but it’s great to see that the 2013 is living up to its potential.Antonio Galloni | 96 AGLike the Tignanello of the same vintage, the 2013 Solaia is restrained in character. It resembles a young Bordeaux, with top notes of cassis, hints of smoke and scents of plum blossom. The palate is quite complete, with pure dark fruit layering and coating the solid frame while fresh garden mint lingers on the finish. Ripe without being sweet, this classy wine has all the elements to suggest a long life. Drinking Window 2022 - 2038.Decanter | 95 DECOffers weight and presence, with black currant, plum and black cherry aromas and flavors. The structure is vibrant and harmonious. Herb, earth and spice accents complete the profile, with a lingering, savory finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2018 through 2033. 500 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSThis blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Sangiovese and 5% Cabernet Franc opens with intense aromas of black-skinned fruit, purple flower, oak and exotic spice. The taut, elegant palate offers black currant, black cherry, chopped mint and white pepper alongside bright acidity and polished, fine-grained tannins. It’s still youthfully austere, so give it time to fully develop. Drink 2020–2033.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WE Antinori’s 2013 Solaia feels poised and balanced. It’s focused on cabernet sauvignon (75 percent of the blend), with flavors of plum and blackberry edged in earthy tones of damp leaves, black tea and tobacco. The wine rested for 18 months in new French oak barriques, gaining notes of vanilla and sweet spice and developing finely polished tannins. The flavors gain energy and expression as the wine sits in the glass, indicating that this has good ageing potential.Wine & Spirits | 93 W&S

This is amazing on the nose with blackberries, black truffle, dried cherries and hints of tobacco. It’s so complex on the nose that you almost don’t need to taste it. Full body, soft and velvety tannins and a persistent, fabulous finish. The mouthfeel is magic. 80% sangiovese and 20% cabernet sauvignon. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2013 Tignanello represents the beginning of a new chapter for Italy’s ultimate game-changer wine. The blend remains 80% Sangiovese with 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc but Renzo Cotarella tells me "stylistically-speaking, this is what we wanted to achieve." The winemaking formula remains the same, but one of the major differences and benefits to this wine is vineyard age. The celebrated Tignanello single vineyard is now reaching 15 years old. In other words, it is in its production prime. This is a harmonious and beautifully integrated wine that reveals black fruit and baking spice. I’m told the 2014 Tignanello will have a greater percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon and the 2015 vintage will have more Sangiovese.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThe 2013 Tignanello is a real knock-out. Rich and intense, but also linear in style, the 2013 is endowed with superb energy from start to finish. In this vintage, the Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc character is especially evident, especially in the aromatics. Today, the 2013 is tightly wound and not ready to show all of its cards. Readers will have to be patient with the 2013, but the wine has plenty to say. Above all else, this is a remarkable level of quality for a wine with Bordeaux First Growth production (but not price) often in excess of 25,000 cases.Antonio Galloni | 95+ AGDefined by licorice and black currant aromas and flavors, this is intense and harmonious. A crisp, vibrant feel pervades as this winds down, showing excellent length and a minerally element.—Non-blind Tignanello vertical (October 2019). Best from 2023 through 2043. 2,500 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSWinemaker Renzo Cotarella declared the 2013 to be one of the most vibrant Tignanellos Antinori has ever made. It recalls 2010 but is a slightly less powerful package. The Cabernet Sauvignon is particularly evident at the moment, with well-defined nuances of blackberry bush. Notes of fresh dark earth, red cherry and minerality lurk underneath. The tannins are long and refined but not quite ready to relax their grip. Currently austere rather than generous, this needs time to knit together. Drinking Window 2021 - 2036.Decanter | 95 DECVibrant and loaded with finesse, this blend of 80% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc opens with enticing scents of red woodland berry, new leather, Asian spice and a touch of menthol. The youthful palate delivers red currant, wild cherry, star anise and clove alongside a backbone of firm acidity and polished, tightly wound tannins. It will age majestically; drink 2020–2033.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEFlavors of black currant and tobacco bring the influence of Cabernet Sauvignon (15 percent) and Cabernet Franc (5 percent) to the fore in this Sangiovese-based blend. Ample alcohol lends a Bourbon-like edge to the wine’s oak-derived accents of vanilla and coconut, but Sangiovese’s firm, raspy tannins guide the wine back toward red cherry flavors and into a long, smoky finish.Wine & Spirits | 92 W&S

This is a very sleek and racy wine with lots of stone, white-pepper and fresh-rosemary character. Then it takes off with dried ripe fruits such as currants and blueberries. Dark chocolate, too. This a real mouthful yet remains agile and powerful. Linear and long finish. Great precision. Best ever from Guado al Tasso?James Suckling | 97 JSThis is a fantastic wine. The 2013 Bolgheri Superiore Guado Al Tasso reveals soaring aromas of dark fruit, plum, blackberry, savory spice, tobacco and leather. The results are seamless, harmonious and generous in intensity. This is the quintessential red blend from Coastal Tuscany (made with 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 18% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot) and the 2013 vintage is particularly rooted in a profound sense of place. I am reminded of the macchia mediterranea, or Mediterranean shrub, that grows so wild and free in this relatively untouched part of Tuscany. This is an excellent wine that shows its winemaking pedigree, but make no mistake: It is a proud Tuscan at heart. Some 140,000 bottles are produced (which is pretty amazing considering the quality).Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPAntinori’s 2013 Bolgheri Superiore Guado al Tasso is ripe, voluptuous and racy, with striking aromatics that sit on top of a core of voluptuous, racy fruit. A classic Bolgheri wine, Guado al Tasso offers plenty of rich, sumptuous fruit and textural resonance. A good dose of new French oak (from a move towards Taransaud and François Frères barrels) adds raciness and toasty notes, but those characteristics marry nicely with the expression of fruit that is so typical of the Tuscan coast. Rose petal, lavender and new leather add striking aromatic lift as the wine opens up in the glass. The 2013 is a terrific Guado al Tasso.Vinous Media | 95 VMA bit reticent, with black cherry, black currant and herb flavors married to a supple texture and fine-grained tannins. The long finish shows promise, but this will need a few years to flesh out. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Best from 2018 through 2027. 750 cases imported. Wine Spectator | 94 WSMade with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and a drop of Petit Verdot, this polished linear red has aromas of black-skinned fruit, bell pepper, coconut and toasted oak. The vibrant, elegantly structured palate offers black currant, chopped herb, clove and licorice alongside fine-grained tannins. Wine Enthusiast | 93 WEThere is a softer, sweeter feel on display here than with the other two Guado al Tasso vintages in this tasting - the 2007 and 2001. That is the result of a 2013 vintage that was cooler overall, despite a warm summer. Some extra leaf thinning was required to help grapes reach full ripeness, but the end result is beautifully balanced. This wine is still intense, full-framed and powerful, but with a caress of rich chocolate and violet notes, and a silky in texture. The team used 2% Petit Verdot to complete the blend.Decanter | 92 DECNotes of toasted nuts, licorice and dark chocolate enrich this wine’s flavors of blackberry and cassis, giving a lush impression that’s tightened by firm tannins. The fruit feels soft and ripe, on the edge of stewed, with a warm and spicy finish that calls for pairing with braised beef.Wine & Spirits Magazine | 92 W&S

The highlight in this range, the exquisite 2014 Tignanello is all about persistence and understated class. The aromatics alone are captivating. Sculpted, finely delineated flavors add to the wine’s vivid personality. Because of the challenges posed by the growing season, the blend leans more heavily toward Cabernet Sauvignon than is typically the case. Above all else, though, the 2014 is all about harmony, and there is plenty of that here. Unfortunately, production is down 30%.Vinous Media | 96 VMExotic spice, cedar, purple flower, forest floor and wild berry are some of the aromas you’ll find in this fragrant, focused red. It’s loaded with finesse, delivering juicy Marasca cherry, cassis, star anise and white pepper with remarkable precision. It’s fresh and balanced by vibrant acidity and elegant, fine-grained tannins. Drink 2019–2029.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEReally pretty aromas of currants and roses follow through to a medium body, firm and silky tannins and a fresh finish. Very well done for 2014 and a wonderful Tignanello to drink now or later. Better in 2019.James Suckling | 94 JSTignanello has this amazing ability of always being, well, Tignanello. Its very DNA makes it among the most distinctive and recognizable wines in the world. I’m happy to report that this is also the case for the 2014 Tignanello that faced very different growing conditions compared to most. The wine is beautiful and balanced with sweet tannins and a supporting oak texture that is neatly folded at the back. The wine is all about measure and proportion, and it aspires to these goals with an impressive sense of natural harmony. This is not an overtly powerful or muscular expression. Instead, it shows a tasty, almost savory form of elegance. This vintage was made with 75% Sangiovese, which means that the Cabernet presence is a tad bigger than normal. Ultimately, this wine is more finessed and delicate, and I appreciate the careful tannic management on display here.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPA fresh, linear style, displaying cherry, iron, earth and spice flavors on a slim frame. Fine length.—Non-blind Tignanello vertical (October 2019). Best from 2021 through 2035. 5,000 cases imported. Wine Spectator | 91 WS

The 2015 Valadorna (65% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc, 19% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot) is a dark and thickly endowed red wine that boasts a rich and lasting grip on the palate. The bouquet offers depth and complexity with dark fruit, leather, cured tobacco and spice. There are also softer notes of chocolate and ground espresso beans. The wine’s seamless integration of flavors leads to increased momentum and intensity as the wine continues to open in the glass.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95+ RPThis rich, powerful red, packed with blackberry and blueberry fruit, is beginning to mellow, offering a woodsy panoply of mushroom, humus and autumn leaves in the background. There are still some tannins to resolve. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2032. 1,500 cases made, 1,000 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSBig and rich wine with lots of fruit and tannins. Plenty of wood, too. Full body. Needs two or three years to soften. Try after 2021.James Suckling | 92 JS

The 2016 Veneroso is one of the most elegant wines I have tasted from Ghizzano. Bright, effusive aromatics lift a core of red Sangiovese fruit, all framed by nervous tannins that give the wine its shape. Sweet tobacco, dried leaves, mint, cedar and incense develop later, adding further shades of nuance. The purity of the flavors is simply striking. Magnificent.Vinous Media | 97 VMBlueberry and raspberry aromas follow through to a medium body, lightly chewy tannins and a flavorful finish. Needs a year to soften. Better in 2020.James Suckling | 91 JS

The 2016 Amarone della Valpolicella Morandina is dark and youthfully understated in the glass, as crushed rose petals and stone dust give way to red currants. This is silky-smooth, nearly velvety in feel, with masses of mineral-tinged black cherry and spice contrasted by a twang of sour citrus. The 2016 finishes with outstanding length and depth yet is also remarkably fresh, leaving hints of hard red candy and the slightest touch of bitter cocoa. The Amarone of Prà is always so unique but in the best possible way. The 2016 is a total gem but needs cellaring to come fully into focus.Vinous Media | 96+ VMA savory and complex expression of Amarone with some dried cherries, red dates, stewed herbs, orange peel, tobacco and white pepper. Some bold green peppercorn, too. A svelte delivery of Amarone with a medium body, showing tobacco, cedar and chocolate on the palate. Long, cedary finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 94 JSInspired by Dal Forno, renowned Soave producer Graziano Prà purchased 13 hectares high up in eastern Valpolicella’s Mezzane Valley in 2001. The previously unplanted parcel is protected by forest and has been farmed organically from the start. A relatively restrained nose shows dried garden herbs with plum and floral nuances. On the palate, fig and prune flavours are laced with cigar smoke. Velvety, malleable tannins enfold the easy to please package and the finish is bright with a pleasantly bitter edge.Decanter | 93 DECThis elegant red is medium- to full-bodied, with creamy tannins providing a fine frame for flavors of brambly red currant and blackberry fruit, pine, orange peel and crushed pink peppercorn. A subtle, savory overtone of cured tobacco and smoky bacon fat echoes on the fresh finish. Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella and Oseleta. Drink now through 2030. 833 cases made, 250 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

The 2016 Amarone della Valpolicella Monte Lodoletta keeps me at the edge of the glass to take in its darkly alluring bouquet of dusty black currants and dried flowers, with hints of blood orange offset by sweet rose. While currently youthful and understated, it continues to open and deepen with each swirl. This is silky and cool-toned in feel, savory to the core, with a dense wave of mineral-tinged dark red fruits carried across a core of vibrant acidity. Autumnal spices form toward the close. The 2016 is inward and saturating, building in fine tannins that clench the palate through the finale, promising a long, long life. This is a masterpiece in the making, and while already bottled, it will not be released until 2023. Production was again down by 50% in 2016 due to hail.Vinous Media | 96-98 VM

The Tenuta Sant’Antonio 2016 Amarone della Valpolicella Campo dei Gigli (packaged in a very heavy eco-unfriendly glass bottle) is a dark and brooding wine packed tight with richly concentrated black fruit delivered in thick and lasting layers. The bouquet peels back to reveal dark plum and baked blackberry, but there is also a major focus on spice, tar, barbecue smoke and teriyaki. The wine makes a wide and large impact on the palate. It shows enormous textural richness and softly integrated tannins. You can age this blend of 70% Corvina and Corvinone, 20% Rondinella, 5% Croatina and 5% Oseleta (that sees three years in barrel) over the long haul.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPA unique yet beguiling mix of smoked meats, lavender and violets evolves into dusty black berries and currants as the 2016 Amarone della Valpolicella Campo dei Gigli blossoms in the glass. It’s velvety-smooth yet spicy and mineral in style, with penetrating dark red fruits giving way to dark chocolate, balsam herbs and building tannins. This tapers off remarkably long and primary, yet it maintains amazing freshness, leaving exotic inner florals and spices to linger. The 2016 is a gentle giant of an Amarone that will need a little time to show its best. It spent three years refining in neutral Tonneaux.Vinous Media | 95 VMVery potent aromas of blackcurrants and toasted oak with hints of eucalyptus and black-cherry liqueur, following through to a full palate with firm tannins that drive the fruit on through the long finish. There’s a kind of raw, almost rough-and-ready character to this that’s a bit hard work now. Will even out with bottle age. One for the cellar. Try from 2024.James Suckling | 93 JSThis wine offers a glimpse of dried cherry and plum flavors before the spectrum quickly shifts to notes of smoked bacon, fig and cardamom. The wine aged for three years in new French-oak tonneaux, developing a complex and decadent style that will appeal to the most ardent Amarone fans.Wine & Spirits | 91 W&S

From the second I tilted the glass, I knew that the 2016 Amarone della Valpolicella was a total knockout. Macerated cherries are contrasted by a whiff of tangerine that gives way to vibrant rose tones and autumnal spice. This soothes with glycerol waves of spicy red fruits complemented by cinnamon, clove and dark, dark chocolate tones. There’s tremendous balance here with bright acids and a totally sexy and exotic style. This just goes on and on and finishes structured and firm yet incredibly fresh, leaving the palate stained in concentration as violet floral tones fade. For all of its heady depth and concentration, there are only two grams per liter of residual sugar. You don’t need to save this riveting Amarone for the dessert course.Vinous Media | 97 VMOwner Marco Sartori has slowly modified his winemaking over the years. He dries the grapes for less time these days, especially in hot years, and ferments at cooler temperatures for a more gentle extraction. And, as of 2016, a portion of the wine ages in large Slavonian oak casks (instead of 100% barriques) for less oxidation of the fruit. The 2016 is deeply coloured and youthful with wood spice and smoke dominating the nose. Compact, concentrated fruit is wrapped up in dense tannins, and hints of blackberry and anise emerge on the palpably dry palate. This definitely needs time to unfurl. Release date: January 2021. Drinking Window 2022 - 2032.Decanter | 90 DEC

A wine to drink at least 10 years from now, the 2016 San Leonardo is positioned to be enjoyed in the far long term. Like its Tuscan cousin from Bolgheri, Sassicaia, San Leonardo from the mountainous north of Italy is always a wine that starts off quietly but that grows in intensity and complexity as it completes its bottle evolution. This elegant vintage reveals beautiful tones of dark berry fruit, spice and freshly milled white pepper. The wine is exceptionally balanced, fresh and long. I can’t wait to come back to this vintage 10 or 20 years from now.Robert Parker The Wine Advocate | 97+ RPAnother year in bottle has added unexpected depths and dimension to the 2016 San Leonardo. It wafts up with an alluring bouquet of smoky black currant and plum skins, complicated by savory herbs, hints of white pepper and fresh tobacco. It’s hard chiseled edges have formed into smooth contours now, velvety yet youthfully dense, washing mineral encased dark red and black berries across a core of brisk acidity as a combination of saline-minerals and grippy tannins add tension toward the close. This finishes incredibly long yet also structured, begging for time in the cellar, as hints of licorice and earth tones grumble under an air of inner violet florals. The potential within the 2016 San Leonardo is off the charts, yet it will require a good amount of time to come fully into focus. Bury your bottles deep.Vinous Media | 96 VMA very elegant, classic Bordeaux blend in the Italian context, but this is actually a special wine in any context, thanks to its subtlety and aromatic complexity. Blackcurrant, black-cherry and mint notes with just a hint of red bell pepper. Finely etched, medium-bodied palate with crisp tannins and lively acidity. The elegant tannins carry the long, cool finish. Drinkable now, but better from 2023.James Suckling | 94 JSA lovely beam of black currant and fig cake flavors play off savory bay leaf and olive tapenade notes in this elegant, medium- to full-bodied red, which is fresh and focused, with good tension from a core of sculpted tannins. Long and fragrant on the creamy, mineral- and spice-laced finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère and Merlot. Drink now through 2036. 5,900 cases made, 650 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

Carlone’s 2016 Boca Adele takes all the elements of the house style and kicks them up a few notches. Bold and dramatic in the glass, the Adele is a total stunner. It needs time to soften, but all the signatures of a truly great wine come through loud and clear. Red cherry, plum, lavender, dried herbs and pomegranate all open up. The 2016 is a young wine that needs cellaring for its aromatics to develop, but it is so impressive.Antonio Galloni | 96 AGForest floor, camphor, blue flower and new leather are just some of the aromas that you’ll find on this structured, vibrant red. Firm and austere, the vibrant, focused palate has youthful intensity, featuring mature Marasca cherry, blood orange, white pepper and licorice set against assertive, noble tannins. Bright acidity keeps it balanced and precise, while an energizing mineral note suggesting flint caps off the finish. Drink 2028–2041.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WECarlone cultivates a few high-lying vineyards in Boca, although some of his grapes are sold to Le Piane. This is unusually deep in colour and has leafy, brooding raspberry aromas that are still reticent. Although sleek in texture, it’s concentrated and dense, with some black fruit and chocolate tones. It’s a Boca with unusual depth and power and has a long, grainy finish. Drinking Window 2021 - 2032.Decanter | 91 DEC

A vibrant example of the region. Very attractive creamy texture, almost like milk chocolate, velvety and sweet. On the palate there is a wild, garrigue type character with oregano and spice, and a leathery, tobacco finish. Drinking Window 2021 - 2035.Decanter | 93 DEC

Very deep and dark, but also fragrant, this glides from dried blueberries, tar, brambleberry essence and cassis to cedar, tobacco and dried nutmeg. The palate is rich and concentrated with a ton of fine-grained tannins and a long, complex, dry finish. Drink in 2023.James Suckling | 95 JSCabernet Sauvignon is not in the blend, but the aromas in the 2016 Terra di Lavoro are very similar to what you would get with that grape, with bright notes of green pepper corn with blackberry and exotic spice. The declared blend is 80% Aglianico and 20% Piedirosso. This is a balanced vintage with lots of depth, precision and density. This is a beautifully made wine. For sure, I am not the first to say that the wine is more characteristic of a house style, a Bordeaux-inspired house style, rather than a territorial expression of Campania. In truth, I’d say that this wine has feet in both those words. I recommend waiting at least five more years before drinking this vintage. Some 30,000 bottles were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPGood full ruby-red. Pretty aromas of fresh raspberry, red cherry and crushed stone and a strong whiff of minty botanical herbs. The vibrant flavors of red fruits, herbs and flint show very good cut and thrust. Not hugely fleshy but boasts very good palate presence and noteworthy refinement. Finishes with polished tannins, outstanding length and perfumed lift. Totally different from the riper 2015 Terra di Lavoro but just as good.Vinous Media | 93 VMThis estate near Campania’s northern border makes just one wine from 25 acres of low-yielding vines planted on the slopes of a dormant volcano. A blend of aglianico softened by 20 percent piedirosso, the 2016 Terra di Lavoro offers flavors of plum and raspberry underscored by a black minerality. Notes of eucalyptus and mint brighten the flavors, and the structure feels lean and taut, bound by rigid tannins. Stow this in the cellar for at least five years.Wine & Spirits | 92 W&S

A total seductress, the 2017 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico is a dark beauty. It opens with a dusty bouquet of dried flowers and masses of cherry sauce, offset by spiced orange and nuances of violet pastille. It sweeps across the palate, a model of purity, with crisp wild berry fruits energized by tantalizing acidity and shavings of dark chocolate. Crunchy mineral tones emerge toward the close. The 2017 lingers impossibly long yet remains completely fresh. Grippy tannins remain as hints of dried blueberry and lavender resonate throughout. The Quintarelli winery has been working hard to perfect a style that mixes the magic of older vintages with a new level of freshness, and the 2017 is a big step in the right direction. Bravo.Vinous Media | 96+ VM

Here’s an iconic wine from the Veneto made from a blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon and 32% Merlot. The Maculan 2017 Fratta shows enormous intensity, muscle and brawn. The wine has absorbed every last drop of sunshine, heat and dry weather conditions that characterized the 2017 growing season, and it does so with elegance and poise. The wine is impeccably balanced with dark fruit and spice. It’s the kind of big-boned red wine you’ll want to pair with a hearty dish of barbecue or marinated beef. Some 7,000 bottles were made, and I tasted bottle number 589. The Fratta spirit is beautifully expressed in 2017.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPDeep, dense aromas of crushed black fruit with notes of charcoal and dried herbs, such as rosemary and thyme. The fruit envelops the lightly firm tannins on the full-bodied palate, creating a dense, velvety and lengthy mouthful. A well-crafted red that’s highly concentrated and bursting with flavor, but it also shows astute balance. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 94 JSThe 2017 Fratta lifts up with a dark and alluring display of black currants, sweet herbs, rich notes of mocha and savory brown spice. This is cool-toned and spicy, a bit lean, yet with a polished feel, showing tart blackberries offset by hints of sour citrus and toasty oak, as violet-tinged florals form toward the close. Fine tannins make themselves known throughout the finale, as this tapers off lightly structured, with hints of licorice lingering long. The Fratta is a blend of 67% Cabernet Sauvignon and 33% Merlot, refined for one year in French barriques. While a year or two of cellaring may bring a bit more flesh to the expression, I expect the 2017 will always have a slender feel.Vinous Media | 92 VM

The 2017 Percarlo is an exotic beauty. Rich and sumptuous in the glass, with tremendous fruit density, the 2017 packs a serious punch. Succulent dark cherry, plum, licorice, menthol and earthy notes emerge over time, but the tannins remain imposing. Like the Baròncole, the Percarlo needs cellaring to be at its best. The 2017 was much more forthcoming from barrel. It will reveal all of that sumptuousness once again, but not soon.Vinous Media | 97 VMThis red is saturated with blackberry, black currant, violet, iron and spice flavors. Powerful tannins lend support and this finishes with lingering fruit and rustic tannins, with terrific length. Best from 2023 through 2036. 850 cases made, 175 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSThe organic San Giusto a Rentennano 2017 Percarlo is a pure expression of Sangiovese from a hot and dry vintage that resulted in smaller berry size, richly concentrated flavors and a well-contained 15% alcohol content. Indeed, the bouquet of this wine shows warm cherry confit and a touch of dried berry skin that point to the general ripeness of the grapes. Additionally, there is a hint of tannic astringency or tightness that also speaks of the challenging vintage conditions. Percarlo is released in 13,302 bottles, 700 magnums, 100 double magnums and 20 Imperial bottles (or double double magnums).Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RP

With over 300ha of vineyard, the Pasqua family are one of the leading growers of the Valpolicella, with a range which focuses increasingly on premium and super-premium productions. This selection is sourced from the Valpantena, the valley to the east of the Classico zone known for earlier drinking wines with bright fruit character. The very stylish 2017 has intense aromas of wild berries, violets and almonds, great fruit concentration and the classic bittersweet finish of Valpolicella.Decanter | 95 DECAromas of black currants with some dried-fruit character, as well as vanilla-pod and spice. Full-bodied with a tight, focused palate and lots of oaky tannin and flavor. Bright, currant and spice finish. Give it some time to integrate better. Best from 2023.James Suckling | 92 JSThis bottling is an impressive wine from the start. This well-built Amarone has aromas of black cherries, black plums and savory herbs. The palate is lush and full in body, with the fruit flavors showing more tart notes of sour cherry and blueberries. Elegant tannins and well-balanced acidity add to the complexity and ageworthiness of the wine. Drink from 2025–2032.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE

The 2017 Amarone della Valpolicella Case Vecie is dreamy, wafting up with a remarkably fresh bouquet that features roses, violets, shavings of cedar, dusty cherry and sweet smoke. This is elegance personified, with ripe red and black fruits excited by vibrant acidity as confectionary spice emerges. Minerals add a more tactile feel toward the close. Balsam herbs and hints of mocha resonate as the 2017 finishes with a gentle tug of tannin and a slight bitter twang that punctuates the wine perfectly. This child of a warm vintage shows impressive balance and tremendous potential for the future. Bury your bottles deep.Vinous Media | 96 VMEnticing aromas of dried strawberries and raspberries, together with notes of heather-like herbs and dried citrus peel. Full-bodied with beautiful, silky tannins that embrace the fruit and add length. In fact this is very long, releasing more and more cedar and spicy dried peel for you to savor. An excellent 2017 from a top Amarone vineyard site. Enjoyable now and will age for many a year.James Suckling | 94 JS

The 2017 Amarone della Valpolicella Campo dei Gigli is intense, like cracking open an ashen stone to find a bevy of dried black cherries, cinnamon sticks, incense and dried herbs. This is deeply textural with a balanced inner sweetness elevated by vibrant acidity as depths of tart red fruit balance and slowly saturates the palate in primary concentration. The 2017 finishes structured and dramatically long, begging for further cellaring, as a bitter tinge of currants and clove fade. Maybe splitting hairs, but I didn’t believe that Tenuta Sant’Antonio could outdo their 2016 Campo dei Gigli, but over time the 2017 may be up to the task.Vinous Media | 95+ VMThick and rather syrupy dried black fruit faces a wall of black-peppery, toasted oak on the nose, then turning more licoricy on the palate. Any subtler, more complex character is for now waiting in the wings for the youthful fruit and oak to vacate the center-stage. And that may take some time. Nevertheless, it’s attractive to drink even now and will continue to give pleasure for many a year. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JSThis rich Amarone is all that it is supposed to be and more. The nose is loaded with blackberry and cassis with licorice and savory herbs layered atop the intense fruit aromas. The palate shows off the beauty of the vineyard with deep dark plum notes wrapped around sweet chocolate and baking spices with fine tannins and a long finish.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WEFrom the estate’s oldest vineyard, a limestone site with some silt and sand located at 300m above sea level planted 40 years ago. It’s a blend of Corvina and Corvinone (70%), Rondinella (20%), Croatina (5%) and Oseleta (5%), fermented in stainless steel then matured in new 500l casks for 36 months. It has distinct aromas of chocolate wheat and spiced plum crumble. In the mouth, lurking austere black fruits and balsamic freshness with streaks of tangy red fruits and dusty spice are supported by fine, grainy tannins. Bold, sweet and succulent, it demonstrates some limestoney mid-palate tightness that lends desirable finesse to this ample wine.Decanter | 92 DEC

Aromas of exotic spice, baked plum and French oak mingle with camphor and blue flower on the nose. This boasts extraordinary elegance and freshness despite the hot vintage, delivering flavors of juicy Marasca cherry, spiced blueberry, tobacco and licorice. Velvety, fine-grained tannins provide support while coffee and crushed mint linger on the finish. Drink 2022–2032.Wine Enthusiast | 97 WEThe 2017 vintage for Sassicaia was described by winemaking consultant Graziana Grassini as ’contracted and difficult, but it evolved impressively well with great strides during the oak ageing’. The wine shows a great intensity and elegance on the super-restrained nose of bramble fruit, layered with cedar, kiwi peel and a touch of oak. Surprisingly velvety, silky tannins and brilliant acidity are supported by creamy mid-palate weight with an amazingly savoury finish of cedar and tobacco. Drinking Window 2020 - 2040.Decanter | 97 DECThe balance and beauty to this is impressive, offering sweet, ripe currants and flowers with some crushed-stone and dry-earth undertones. Full-bodied with soft, polished tannins and a long, creamy-textured finish. It’s polished, yet concentrated. Better after 2022, but already very seductive.James Suckling | 96 JSA taut, densely wrought red, with black currant, black cherry, iron, wild herb and spice flavors matched to the elegant frame and restrained character. Balanced and long, this has a distinctly Old World feel and looks set to unravel its complex facets slowly. Terrific length. Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2022 through 2043. 25,000 cases made, 4,000 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSThe 2017 Sassicaia shows the natural richness and intensity of the year while retaining its mid-weight sense of balance and overall poise. A burst of super-ripe red cherry/plum fruit makes a strong opening statement. Mocha, cinnamon, leather and dried herbs appear later, adding aromatic lift. The 2017 is a fairly immediate Sassicaia. Even so, it has enough energy to drink well for a number of years. Production is down 35%, a combination of naturally low yields, dehydration on the vine and then selection in the cellar. Most of the fruit comes from the estate’ hillside vineyards, older parcels that resisted the conditions better.Vinous Media | 94 VMThe 2017 Sassicaia is a fascinating wine that symbolizes a never-ending tug-of-war between vintner and vintage. The question is who comes out on top? In this case, my money is on the vintner. The 2017 vintage, characterized by scorching heat and drought across much of Italy, was not an easy one. However, vintners had ample time to prepare because those climatic challenges had already played out midway through the summer season. Vintners with experience such as that amassed at Tenuta San Guido (now on the eve of Sassicaia’s 50th birthday celebration) knew exactly how to handle the tricky 2017 growing season. Fruit was harvested early to avoid any jammy sensations, and a strict selection process was employed in order to preserve the best clusters. This Sassicaia represents 83% Cabernet Sauvignon and 17% Cabernet Franc, with most of the fruit coming from the Tenuta’s historic vineyards Castiglioncello, Quercione and Doccino. These plots are all located on the back hill of Bolgheri at slightly higher elevations where they enjoy cooler nighttime temperatures. Old vines also have a deeper root system that is key to braving dry and hot summers. You can absolutely taste those choices here thanks to the wine’s aromatic profile that offers more variety-driven green highlights of wild berry, forest floor and bramble than I would have expected. With time, as the wine takes on more air in the glass, you get a hint of summer plum or cherry cough drop, and this, to my surprise, is the only subtle reminder of the hot vintage encountered. I found the aromas here to be authentically "Tuscan" in character, more so than other vintages, with balsamic and Mediterranean elements that borrow directly from the Sangiovese playbook. I left the wine in my glass over the course of a day, checking back periodically, to find a growing mineral profile of rust or metal that recalls the high concentration of iron and manganese found in these Bolgheri soils. Another vintage-specific adjustment made in 2017 was shorter overall maceration times in steel tanks (from 10 to 12 days for the Cabernet Sauvignon and eight to 10 days for the Cabernet Franc). However, pump-overs and délestages were almost doubled in order to introduce more oxygen to the yeasts during fermentations at lower temperatures. Based on my understanding of fermentation kinetics, this means the 2017 Sassicaia would have achieved the same amount of extraction in about half the time. This process champions the cool-temperature fermentations that are a hallmark of Tenuta San Guido, despite the heat of the vintage. This puts more emphasis on aromatic elegance and minerality, rather than mouthfeel texture or creaminess per se. In fact, the 2017 Sassicaia is much shorter in the mid-palate compared to 2015 or 2016. In terms of oak, Tenuta San Guido takes advantage of the softer tannins found in Allier and Tronçais oak. The 2017 vintage saw a greater percentage (from 20% to 30%) of third and fourth passage barrique during the first 10 months of aging. The decision to use more neutral oak favors the reduction of oxygen and softens the tannic profile. Although the wine does end with a hint of bitterness, it took on noticeably more volume and soft richness the longer I kept my sample in the glass.To recap my assessment, and with the memory of the 100-point 2016 vintage so fresh in my mind, I would give this wine a seven out of 10 in terms of aromas, a five out of 10 in terms of mid-palate, and an eight out of 10 in terms of structure. Another way to read those conclusions is as follows: The 2017 Sassicaia was expertly built to withstand a long aging future, yet only time will tell if the beauty of the bouquet will evolve at the same pace. This fascinating wine magically captures the hallmarks of cool-temperature winemaking in one of the hottest vintages in recent years. Vintners, not vintage, won this round.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RP

Aromas of cassis, menthol, blue flower and pipe tobacco shape the nose on this gorgeous red. A blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, the delicious, elegantly structured palate delivers dried black cherry, ripe blackberry, licorice and vanilla framed in taut, fine-grained tannins. Drink 2023–2029.Wine Enthusiast | 97 WEA dense, really pinpointed red with plums and hazelnuts. Full-bodied and very polished with fine, creamy tannins and a long, flavorful finish. Shows real finesse for the vintage. Better after 2023, but already a joy to taste.James Suckling | 96 JSThe Marchesi Antinori 2017 Tignanello (made with Sangiovese and smaller parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc) is a dark, exuberant and inviting wine. I tasted my sample after a double decanting and was pleased by the profound nature of the wine and the immediate openness of the aromas. There is a symphony of dark fruit with black cherry, plum, spice and sweet tobacco. I am particularly attracted by a distant hint of medicinal or menthol herb that I also discovered in other wines with fruit from the Tignanello estate in 2017. There's a drying mineral note of crushed chalk as well. The heat and dryness of the vintage has added to the aromatic intensity of the wine (yields were reduced by a third), but the mouthfeel is carefully crafted to maintain its softness and smoothness. Fruit comes from a 57-hectare section of the Tenuta Tignanello from a vineyard that is located 390 meters above sea level with Alberese limestone rock and soils of marine origin. The wine is fermented in conical oak tanks and is aged up to 16 months in a combination of mostly French and some Hungarian oak, both new and neutral. Some 300,000 bottles were released in April 2020 after one year of bottle age.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPLast year I wrote that the 2017 Tignanello would drink well early. Unless that happens within the next two years or so, that will not turn out to be the case. Right after bottling, the 2017 was so generous, but since then it has really gone into a shell. That won't be an issue over time, but today Tignanello, which so often is such a showy in its youth, is incredibly tight. Bright red berry fruit, mint, chalk and lifted floral notes give the 2017 a good bit of energy. There is a purity to the Sangiovese that works so well with the wine's grippy tannins, but patience is key.Antonio Galloni | 95+ AGForward plum and cherry aromas are accompanied by black pepper, clove and the typical floral notes of the Chianti Classico area like orris and violet. Darker on the palate, it displays chocolate notes with a balsamic character - peppermint in depth - and a delicate coconut finish. Full and powerful, it has firm acidity and compact tannins, finding great balance due to its amazing concentration of fruit. Of the 50% new wood used in 2017, a small proportion of oak was sourced from Hungary, helping the wine to open up a little bit according to Antinori CEO, Renzo Cotarella. (Drink between 2021-2040)Decanter | 95 DECA bit shy in aroma today, this red features plum, black cherry, earth, sanguine and toasty oak flavors. Muscular and dense, firming up on the finish. Well-proportioned and long. Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2022 through 2035. 5,000 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

The 2018 Amarone della Valpolicella Case Vecie is darkly alluring and brooding in the glass, with a dusting of confectionary spice and dried violets complementing wild blueberries and a lifting whiff of fresh mint. Soothingly round and surprisingly juicy in feel, this shows its minerality up front, as depths of tart wild berry fruits meet vibrant acidity, and an array of exotic spices emerges toward the close. It finishes tannic yet fresh and incredibly long, leaving a bitter blackberry crunch, violet inner florals and chalky concentration that boggles the mind. Bury the 2018 deep in your cellar, this is a long-distance runner.Vinous Media | 96 VM

The 2018 Balifico, Volpaia’s Sangiovese/ Cabernet Sauvignon blend, is fabulous. Rich and inky, the 2018 offers up a compelling mélange of dark berry fruit, dark spice, licorice and espresso. I especially admire the wine’s textural richness. I imagine the 2018 will drink well for many, many years to come. In this tasting it is a total knock-out.Antonio Galloni | 96 AGAlluring violet, black currant and black cherry fruit introduces this seductive red, with firm, pointed tannins and vivid acidity providing structure as this glides to a lingering, detailed finish. Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2037. 750 cases made, 200 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSA wine with depth and a center palate of pure, ripe fruit. Raspberries and blueberries galore. Ripe and polished tannins. Solid finish.James Suckling | 93-94 JS