New Arrivals

wines

This is well-packed, offering the vivid plum, boysenberry, cassis and açaí berry fruit profile of the vintage, along with a dark edge of tar, baker’s chocolate and salted licorice that courses underneath. The long finish lets the fruit play out, keeping singed alder and chai spice hints in the background. Smolderingly seductive. Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Cão, Sousão and Tinta Roriz. Best from 2035 through 2060. 3,500 cases made.Wine Spectator | 98 WSThe 2017 Vintage Port is a field blend, mostly Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinto Cão and Sousão, aged for 18 months in old wood vats. It comes in with 99 grams of residual sugar. This was bottled in May 2019, about a month before tasting, but I made sure at least some of it had a lot of air. Aromatic, wonderfully fragrant and laced with eucalyptus, this then shows typical Noval focus and power. A couple of hours in a glass simply increased the power. More intense than the very fine 2016, it grips the palate and shows rather significant astringency. As wonderfully aromatic as this is, there the 2016 might have the edge.Too closed and muscular once past the aromatics, this rather dry Port needs some time. It is harder to read than the 2016 was, but this should overtake it in time. Have some patience with this one.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe 2017 Quinta do Noval Vintage Port was picked from August 21 to September 28 under perfect conditions. It has a tightly wound bouquet that requires a lot of aeration. Eventually it reveals fabulous, detailed aromas of cassis, bilberry jam, crushed stone and pressed violets, later hints of orange blossom and quince. The palate is pure class. Saturated tannins, wonderful structure but the headline is the intensity of fruit. I cannot remember a Noval with this penetration, almost overwhelming the senses as layers of effervescent black plum and cassis fruit segue into a spicy finish that fans out like there is no tomorrow. Is this the best Quinta do Noval ever?Vinous Media | 97 VMThe straight 2017 Vintage Port is stunning stuff. It packs serious power and richness while staying beautifully polished and, dare I say, elegant. Notes of crème de cassis and liquid blackberries define the attack, but it offers an incredibly layered, nuanced, complex style in its notes of herbes de Provence, violets, spicy wood, licorice, and Asian spice aromas and flavors. While it’s no doubt a full-bodied Port, it stands out just as much for its incredible polish, balance, and purity. This a brilliant effort is more approachable than the Nacional bottling yet is nevertheless going to evolve for 50-60 years or more on its flawless balance.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDBig grip in this wine with dark blackberries, blueberries and floral notes. Fine tannins. Ripe but sweet and pretty. Shows a lovely finish. Try after 2027.James Suckling | 97 JSNoval spills over into two valleys from Pinhão to Roncão which contribute two very different terroirs to the blend, though both predominantly south-facing. It displays heady Douro aromas of open, ripe, plummy fruit with a touch of dust and eucalypt, wild and aromatic. The palate is dense, smooth and seductive on the palate with firm, schistous tannins rising on to a fresh, linear finish. Beautifully defined and integrated. Just 3,500 cases declared. Drinking Window 2035 - 2060.Decanter | 96 DECThis is a solid wine with dark tannins and a definitely dry character that will allow it to age well. Its power and its density are impressive, with rich black currant flavors backing up the tannins. Drink from 2030.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEJet black, this shows the arid vintage in its desert-rose scents and in the umami savor of tiny dried black currants. There’s black-cherry density inside the concentrated tannins, which need a decade to begin to relax.Wine & Spirits | 93 W&S

The 2017 Amarone della Valpolicella Campo dei Gigli is intense, like cracking open an ashen stone to find a bevy of dried black cherries, cinnamon sticks, incense and dried herbs. This is deeply textural with a balanced inner sweetness elevated by vibrant acidity as depths of tart red fruit balance and slowly saturates the palate in primary concentration. The 2017 finishes structured and dramatically long, begging for further cellaring, as a bitter tinge of currants and clove fade. Maybe splitting hairs, but I didn’t believe that Tenuta Sant’Antonio could outdo their 2016 Campo dei Gigli, but over time the 2017 may be up to the task.Vinous Media | 95+ VMThick and rather syrupy dried black fruit faces a wall of black-peppery, toasted oak on the nose, then turning more licoricy on the palate. Any subtler, more complex character is for now waiting in the wings for the youthful fruit and oak to vacate the center-stage. And that may take some time. Nevertheless, it’s attractive to drink even now and will continue to give pleasure for many a year. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JSThis rich Amarone is all that it is supposed to be and more. The nose is loaded with blackberry and cassis with licorice and savory herbs layered atop the intense fruit aromas. The palate shows off the beauty of the vineyard with deep dark plum notes wrapped around sweet chocolate and baking spices with fine tannins and a long finish.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WEFrom the estate’s oldest vineyard, a limestone site with some silt and sand located at 300m above sea level planted 40 years ago. It’s a blend of Corvina and Corvinone (70%), Rondinella (20%), Croatina (5%) and Oseleta (5%), fermented in stainless steel then matured in new 500l casks for 36 months. It has distinct aromas of chocolate wheat and spiced plum crumble. In the mouth, lurking austere black fruits and balsamic freshness with streaks of tangy red fruits and dusty spice are supported by fine, grainy tannins. Bold, sweet and succulent, it demonstrates some limestoney mid-palate tightness that lends desirable finesse to this ample wine.Decanter | 92 DEC

Under the leadership of Maria Flora Fuligni since 1971, along with her long-time right-hand Dr Daniela Perino - now the estate’s CEO - Fuligni is one of the denomination’s most consistent performers. The 2018 does not disappoint: it epitomises the elegance of the vintage. A captivating synthesis of florals and earth, the nose radiates pressed violet, lavender and rose with truffle and tobacco accents. It expands in the mouth with flavour rather than weight or brawn. Red currants and orange are amplified by piercing acidity, and well-formed, magnificently textured tannins are chalky and adequately padded, giving layers and profundity. Not pushed beyond its capacity, this will drink beautifully over the next decade.Decanter | 96 DECA fine Brunello with black cherry, hazelnut and chocolate aromas and flavors. Very perfumed. Medium-bodied with a pretty texture and delicious finish. Lovely fine tannins. Not the most structured red but will improve with age while delivering wonderful pleasure now. Drinkable but better after 2023.James Suckling | 94 JSIt takes a good amount of time for the 2018 Brunello di Montalcino to open in the glass, as a cloud of white smoke gives way to a sweetly scented mix of dried roses, sugar-dusted cherries and hints of exotic spice. This is a round and supple 2018, communicating elegance through its velvety textures, polished ripe red fruits and cascading inner violet florals. There’s opulence here, yet also the acidity to balance, as the 2018 tapers off long with classically refined tannins, yet leaves the palate perfectly reset for another sip. Frankly, it’s hard to put this glass down. There will be no Riserva produced in 2018, and so all of that juice was used to bolster this open-knit and seductive Brunello.Vinous Media | 93 VMNo written review provided. | 92 W&S

Aromas of sour red cherries, fennel and lifted floral notes of lavenders and potpourri. Medium-bodied and round textured with astringent tannins. Excellent length. Healthy and balanced. Try in 2027.James Suckling | 94 JSThe deep ruby-colored 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino is more reserved on opening, with aromas of black cherry, leather, turned soil, and menthol starting to come through. Well-balanced and medium to full-bodied, its tannins are a touch firm, but it’s mouthwatering, with a more citrus-toned profile coming through to lift it along to its a salty finish. Drink 2024-2034.Jeb Dunnuck | 92 JD

With a much higher proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon (91%, with 9% Cabernet Franc), the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate is less floral than the Maya but more obviously fruity and up front. Bold black cherries and cassis lead the way, framed by gentle oak shadings of cedar and vanilla, backed by deep bass notes of rich loam and hints of tobacco. Medium to full-bodied, the tannins are wonderfully judged, supple and velvety in one sip, then fine and silky in the next, while the finish lingers effortlessly, even if it lacks some of the seamless elegance of its sister.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPBlended with 11% Cabernet Franc, the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon is even more Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated than most vintages. This inky purple-hued beauty offers a sensational nose of crème de cassis, liquid violets, flowers, new leather, and graphite that’s to die for. This carries to a massively concentrated, structured, inward Cabernet Sauvignon with building tannins, ample mid-palate depth and flesh, and a great finish.Jeb Dunnuck | 98+ JDThe core blocks for the Cabernet come from those in front of the house (House Block) and from further down the west-facing hill and a block on the right-hand side of the driveway through the gate, which is typically a later ripening block that imparts good natural acidity, imparting focus and length to the wine. Those blocks are later blended with a barrel selection of the Cabernet Franc blocks from the property. The Cabernet Franc is roughly 30% of the entire vineyard. A towering wine in 2021, the estate’s Flagship is super compact, teeming with concentrated black-toned fruits and perfectly integrated cedarwood spices. The tannins are elliptical with a palate-coating pixelated quality that comes into focus as the wine opens to reveal scented rose petals and black cherry, Damson plums, and tobacco spices. Nuances of crushed cocoa nibs and fragrant graphite minerality add depth and intrigue. Extravagantly long on the finish, revealing even more dried floral notes, herbs, and subtle hints of Indian spices. Don’t even think of opening it until 2025 or 2026, and be sure to enjoy this wine, a bottle a year, at least for the next three decades or more. Maya Dalla Valle, the daughter of founder Naoko Dalla Valle, is the winemaker with Andy Erickson and Michel Rolland consulting, while Edgar Alfaro manages the vineyards.Decanter | 98 DECComposed of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Cabernet Franc, the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon is opaque purple-black in color, bursting from the glass with vibrant blackberries, black raspberries, and black cherries scents, followed by suggestions of violets, chocolate box, and cardamom. The medium to full-bodied palate is bright and energetic, with fine-grained tannins and a lively backbone supporting the intense black fruit flavors, finishing on a lingering fragrant earth note. Approachable now, it will benefit greatly from a couple of years in bottle should cellar for 25 years+.The Wine Independent | 97 TWIThis just feels special, as a focused, velvety wave of boysenberry, mulberry and black cherry reduction notes moves through steadily, carried by a graphite spine and laced throughout with iris and ganache accents. A terrific tug of cast iron is buried deeply on the finish. Best from 2025 through 2042. 1,100 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WSA full-bodied and refined cabernet sauvignon with notes of blackberries, dark plums, warm herbs and spice box. Serious, with fine yet firm tannins. Vivid core of spices on the velvety center-palate. The caressing touch of berries mingles harmoniously with the peppercorns and grilled herbs. Authentic and well-composed, with a focused, long and lively finish. Try after 2025.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon offers terrific density and power. Bright red-toned fruit, spice, leather, tobacco and rose petal are beautifully delineated. The 2020 is a bit lighter than usual, and the tannins are incisive, but at the same time all the elements are nicely balanced.Vinous Media | 92 VM

Do you have a favorite pair of jeans or a favorite dress that you keep in your closet for all occasions? That’s the equivalent of this wine. The G.D. Vajra 2021 Barolo Albe is an enormously versatile expression of Nebbiolo, with an affordable price, that offers more value for your money than most Barolos out there. The bouquet focuses on dark berry, pressed flower and crushed stone. It offers good sharpness over broad lines. The mouthfeel is medium-plus in texture and it closes with silky, accessible tannins. Fruit comes from three cru sites: Coste di Vergne, Fossati and La Volta.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2021 Barolo Albe continues to be one of the best values the region has to offer and punches far above its weight class in this vintage. The nose is ripe with fresh, layered notes of pure red cherries, fresh flowers, anise, and refined spices. The palate is fantastic and pure, with a long finish. This is one of the best vintages of this wine I have tasted to date, revealing great definition of structure and a refreshing feel that makes this a fantastic go-to option to check in on again and again as it ages. I would snap these up and get a case or two if you can. Drink over the coming 15-20 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDViolets with dried flowers and hints of blueberries and menthol. This has a juicy profile of fruit that complements a big tannin structure that concludes with a firm, tightly wound finish and just a touch of shy fruit. Approachable now, but best in 2026.James Suckling | 94 JSThe 2021 Albe is a fantastic Barolo, starting with its alluring fragrance of red berries, dark spices, dog rose and a balsamic whiffs of camphor. The palate shows youthful tension tempered by succulent raspberries, orange peel, star anise and crushed mint framed in taut, fine-grained tannins. Made with Nebbiolo organically grown in high-altitude vineyards, it has bright acidity that keeps it energized. Drink 2029–2036. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 94 KOThis multi-MGA Barolo is assembled from the estate’s younger vines, though the average age is a respectably mature 30 years. Winemaker Giuseppe Vaira calls it a ‘blend with immediate drinkability’. Indeed, it is irresistible now with its becoming and animated scents of pepper-inflected strawberry, dried violet and crushed allspice. The palate is silky and refined, with crunchy red fruit clarity. Layered tannins support it without overtaking – very seamlessly knit. It promises to divulge even more with just a bit more time in the bottle.Decanter | 93 DECThe 2021 Barolo Albe is bright, aromatic and vibrant in the glass. Medium in body and super-refined, the 2021 is a delight. This is one of the more understated recent vintages I can remember tasting. It’s a terrific introduction to this range.Vinous Media | 91 VM

Another incredibly concentrated, focused, insanely impressive wine in the lineup is the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain, which offers a powerful nose of darker currants, scorched earth, graphite, and savory herb aromas and flavors. This full-bodied, dense, concentrated, powerful, inward beauty needs 4-6 years in the cellar but will age forever.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDThis 2021 La Jota combines 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6.5% Cabernet Franc, 5% Malbec, 4% Merlot, and 2.5% Petit Verdot. Grapes are sourced from the 8ha La Jota vineyard and 24ha Keyes Estate Vineyard, both atop Howell Mountain. Winemaker Chris Carpenter begins with native yeast fermentations after optical sorting, then pump-overs by hand and pressing at alcohol dryness. The wine goes into a barrel where malolactic fermentation takes place—aged 22 months in 75% new French oak. All of La Jota’s barrels are culled from the centre of France and Navarre, and eight different coopers provide barrels that have mostly medium-plus toasts, with some medium-range toasts for Merlot. After every pressing, Carpenter fills in whatever gaps he feels need filling by leveraging the various oak characters in his barrel toolkit. Readers should note that by the time I tasted the 2021 wines with Carpenter (including the Mt. Brave, Lokoya, and Cardinale wines), they had been decanting for about 5.5 hours. A necessary step if you’re popping corks on this within five years of their release. In 2021, with yields down 30-35%, the La Jota was very precise and focused, with saturated layers of extremely dark fruit nuanced by very expressive ironstone minerality and fresh garrigue. Full-bodied with robust, broad-shouldered tannins that are chocolaty. More of that iron minerality is layered throughout, and for all the fruit density here, there is a balance of freshness that is almost hard to imagine. So, don’t imagine it; snap these up and see for yourself. When I visited with winemaker Chris Carpenter, who oversees production for La Jota, Mt. Brave, Lokoya, and Cardinale, he took the time to explain the distinct difference in his approach to crafting the La Jota and Mt. Brave wines in comparison to the Lokoya single vineyard Cabernets. ’The single-vineyard Lokoya wines are mountain wines that have a good amount of tannin and are in pursuit of the expression of their individual AVA. The tannin is concentrated and differentiates each mountain expression of Cabernet. With La Jota and Mt. Brave, I’m aiming to give the drinker of these wines an understanding of how the mountain expresses itself from an acid, weight, and fruit standpoint without those powerful and ponderous tannins. These wines are culled from blocks in each of the single vineyards that typically have softer tannins, so these are ideal for restaurants or earlier drinking wines. La Jota is owned by the Jackson Family.Decanter | 97 DECSo much black currant, dark fruit, pine cone, bark and pine needle aromas that show a depth and intensity with round, polished and creamy tannins. Medium to full body, with a complex and gorgeously flavored finish. A blend of 82% cabernet sauvignon, 6.5% cabernet franc, 5% malbec, 4% merlot and 2.5% petit verdot. Over 3050 cases produced. Give this three to four more years to come around.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon has 6.5% Cabernet Franc, 5% Malbec, 4% Merlot, and 2.5% Petit Verdot in the blend. Deep garnet-purple in color, it needs a lot of shaking to wake up scents of blackcurrant preserves, plum pudding, and mulberries giving way to a fragrant undercurrent of licorice, charcoal, violets, and menthol. The big, rich, full-bodied palate is completely packed with black fruit layers supported by very firm yet ripe grainy tannins and seamless freshness, finishing long with a spicy kick.The Wine Independent | 97 TWIA blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6.5% Cabernet Franc, 5% Malbec, 4% Merlot and 2.5% Petit Verdot, the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain delivers scents of cedar, pine, black cherries, blueberries and cassis. According to winemaker Chris Carpenter, the blend was necessary to ameliorate the tannins for the restaurant trade, a major market for the wine. It’s medium to full-bodied, fresh, smooth and silky on the mid-palate, then firmer and more structured, with dusty tannins on the lingering finish. While it should age well for 20 years or more, I suspect much of it will be consumed on the young side, with a thick, well-marbled steak.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPA fruit-laden red, with glistening mulberry, cassis and plum puree notes that drive through gleefully, flanked by violet and iris hints, plus a light sheen of anise and apple wood on the finish. Offers latent grip for the cellar. Drink now through 2040. 3,051 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

This 30th anniversary bottling is a creamy, polished and fragrant red showing ripe plum, cherry, lavender, vanilla and sweet cocoa aromas. It’s full-bodied with broad and encompassing tannins, yet remains elegant and beautifully balanced. Lightly chalky in texture. A blend of cabernet sauvignon, aglianico and merlot. Best from 2026.James Suckling | 96 JSA total seductress, the 2021 Montevetrano impresses first with a vivid burst of crushed raspberry backed by a dusting of cocoa, sweet sage, pipe tobacco and lavender pastille. It’s elegant in feel, with textures of pure silk and polished red fruits that ride a stream of brisk acidity as hints of citrus pinch at the cheeks and violet inner florals arch across the palate. Sweet tannins frame the finish beautifully as the 2021 tapers off with outstanding length and concentration, showing an inner harmony that guarantees over a decade of positive evolution. This has found a lovely balance with further bottle age.Vinous Media | 95 VMNow celebrating its 30th anniversary (1991 to 2021), the 2021 Montevetrano is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Aglianico and 20% Merlot with fruit from a five-hectare parcel on clay soils that add to the fruit weight and definition of this headlining wine. The results are inky dark in concentration with blackberry, fruit preserves and a hint of sweet apricot. On second nose, you get tarry resin and spice. The wine is certainly rich, but it is not heavy, and its surprisingly less-than-full-bodied approach offers respite to the palate. I like the general accessibility and elegant darkness of this wine, which numbers 16,800 bottles in this vintage.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPA blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Aglianico and Merlot, the fragrant and polished 2021 Montevetrano offers heady scents of Mediterranean scrub, cassis, lavender and a whiff of wet stone. Delicious and smooth, it’s rich yet shows elegant restraint, delivering black currant, crushed blackberry, licorice and vanilla alongside menthol and mineral notes reminiscent of oyster shell. Velvety, close-grained tannins envelope the concentrated flavors. Drink 2025–2036. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 94 KOA classy red, with black currant and black cherry fruit flavors that are ripe and vibrant, while a dark, rich undertow of fig cake, mocha, graphite and smoke also chimes in. Shows good focus and length in a sleek, balanced style, with fine-grained, supple tannins firming the well-spiced, lasting finish. Aglianico. Drink now through 2034. 1,000 cases made, 200 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS