Piedmont Wines

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Luciano Sandrone’s 2001 Barolo Le Vigne is fresh, vibrant and totally impeccable. Flowers, mint, minerals and juicy red berries are some of the many nuances that come to life in the 2001 Le Vigne. The wine gains volume and shape with time in the glass. Seemingly endless layers of fruit flesh out on the mid-palate and finish. Hints of leather, spices, licorice and flowers add further complexity on the close. This is a fabulous showing from Luciano Sandrone. Although Sandrone’s Cannubi Boschis gets most of the attention, the reality is that in many vintages Le Vigne is very much its equal. The ability to blend fruit from several parcels, an approach rarely used today, has plenty of merits. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2021.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPLuciano Sandrone's 2001 Barolo Le Vigne is fresh, vibrant and totally impeccable. Flowers, mint, minerals and juicy red berries are some of the many nuances that come to life in the 2001 Le Vigne. The wine gains volume and shape with time in the glass. Seemingly endless layers of fruit flesh out on the mid-palate and finish. Hints of leather, spices, licorice and flowers add further complexity on the close. This is a fabulous showing from Luciano Sandrone. Although Sandrone's Cannubi Boschis gets most of the attention, the reality is that in many vintages Le Vigne is very much its equal. The ability to blend fruit from several parcels, an approach rarely used today, has plenty of merits.Vinous Media | 96 VMGreat stuff, combining traditional Barolo flavors—dusty earth, leather, floral notes and cherries—with modern touches, like the supple tannins and hints of hickory smoke. This is a big, powerful wine that manages to be burly without being clumsy, intellectually challenging and complex while still delivering lush fruit. Drinkable now, but better several years from now.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEWonderful aromas of roses, berries and violets follow through to a full-bodied palate, with fine tannins and a pretty, caressing finish of sweet fruit. Pretty wine. Best after 2006. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. 1,250 cases made, 350 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

The 2005 Sorì San Lorenzo is superb. Here the personality of the year is perfectly matched to that of the site. A host of smoke, tar, graphite, incense, licorice and melted road tar are fused together. Powerful and explosive, with enough freshness to drink well for several decades, the 2005 is absolutely magnificent today. Gaja's Sorì San Lorenzo is a wine of real personality and pedigree.Vinous Media | 97 VMVery complex and layered nose, plus notes of pristine fresh leather, dried cherries and rose petals. Spices and savory tarry nuances. The palate has deeply layered tannins that are set like plaster. Really snappy and long, building chocolate and dark-cherry flavors into the finish. Majestic. A vast drinking window: now to 2030.James Suckling | 96 JSGaja’s 2005 Sori San Lorenzo is a dense, dark beauty of sensual, irresistible charm. This richly-textured, expansive wine flows with masses of ripe dark fruit, menthol, licorice and mineral in a sumptuous, full-bodied style. The use of oak is simply masterful here and the wine boasts extraordinary balance. I am not sure how he does it, but Angelo Gaja is easily Italy’s most consistently brilliant producer. For those who can afford it, this is another gem from Gaja. Readers should interpret my drinking windows with a large grain of salt. The 1990 Sor? San Lorenzo is still young, and the 1978 is amazingly fresh, so it is anyone’s guess as to when this wine might be actually “ready.” In the meantime, this wine is sure to provide enormous pleasure to those lucky enough to own it. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2035.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPYou cannot not love this wine: layered and intense with extraordinary integrity of fruit, it offers supple flavors of dark fruit, spice, tobacco and chocolate. It's dense, succulent and penetrating with polished tannins and long persistency. The palate becomes coated with opulence and richness: 5% Barbera is added. Drink 2015–2030.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEVery pretty plum and strawberry aromas follow through to a full body, with ultrafine tannins and a long finish. A reserved, almost delicate style. But with air this gives you loads of luscious and beautiful fruit. Best after 2011. 800 cases made, 200 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSGaja has made this single-vineyard wine since 1967. The '05 is as sleek and stunning as a Maserati on the outside, with ferocious power raging deep within. A blend of nebbiolo (95 percent) and barbera, a layer of sweet oak initially masks the fruit. As the wine opens, it becomes more refined, its ripe blackberry flavors and foresty coolness balancing the wood. A luxurious and aristocratic wine, this has the strength to cellar for a decade or more.Wine & Spirits | 94 W&S

The 2007 Barolo Monprivato is stunningly beautiful. Monprivato is seldom this rich when it is young. It is most often intensely aromatic, mid-weight and frequently out of balance, especially right after bottling. The 2007 is none of those things. It is a rich, dramatic wine endowed with tons of fruit and a sweeping, enveloping personality. It is also primary and at the beginning of what is likely to be a long, long life. Despite its seeming fragility, Monprivato is one if the most long-lived of all Baroli, even its weakest vintages. The 2007 is spectacular, but it is very, very young and in need of significant cellaring to shed some its baby fat. Purists may prefer the 2006. I have not tasted both wines side by side from bottle, but 10 years from now it won't matter. Readers will be thrilled to own either. In 2007 Mascarello opted not to bottle his Riserva Ca' d'Morssio as he didn't think there was a huge difference between the Riserva and the straight Monprivato. I guess we will never know for sure, although my barrel tastings have always suggested otherwise. In any event, savvy readers know what happens when there is no Ca' d'Morissio in a good to great vintage. Recent examples include the 1999 and 2005. By now, its pretty clear the direction those wines have taken. Barolo lovers will not want to be without the 2007 Monprivato. It is a stratospheric Barolo in the making.Antonio Galloni | 97 AGThe 2007 Barolo Monprivato is stunningly beautiful. Monprivato is seldom this rich when it is young. It is most often intensely aromatic, mid-weight and frequently out of balance, especially right after bottling. The 2007 is none of those things. It is a rich, dramatic wine endowed with tons of fruit and a sweeping, enveloping personality. It is also primary and at the beginning of what is likely to be a long, long life. Despite its seeming fragility, Monprivato is one of the most long-lived of all Baroli, even in its weakest vintages. The 2007 is spectacular, but it is very, very young and in need of significant cellaring to shed some its baby fat. Purists may prefer the 2006. I have not tasted both wines side by side from bottle, but 10 years from now it won’t matter. Readers will be thrilled to own either. In 2007 Mascarello opted not to bottle his Riserva Ca’ d’Morissio as he didn’t think there was a huge difference between the Riserva and the straight Monprivato. I guess we will never know for sure, although my barrel tastings have always suggested otherwise. In any event, savvy readers know what happens when there is no Ca’ d’Morissio in a good to great vintage. Recent examples include the 1999 and 2005. By now, its pretty clear the direction those wines have taken. Barolo lovers will not want to be without the 2007 Monprivato. It is a stratospheric Barolo in the making. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2037.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPA pure, ethereal Barolo, boasting rose, cherry and strawberry aromas and flavors, with a touch of tar. Very harmonious and elegant, with firm yet well-delineated tannins supporting the whole. Old-school and refined. Best from 2016 through 2035. 1,830 cases made, 400 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WS

A banner wine for Gaja, the 2010 Sori San Lorenzo brings the infinite and ethereal aromas associated with Nebbiolo into startling focus and clarity. Again, like the Sori Tildin, the structure and tannic firmness of the wine will carry the wine forward over the years and decades ahead. It demands much more time until it fully blossoms. I walked through the San Lorenzo vineyard with Gaia Gaja and she showed me some of their recent activity. Every second row is planted with barley that acts as a natural rototiller given its aggressive root system. Borrowing other “New World” ideas, they’ve started compost piles with Californian red worms and are using (with less success, I’m told) wooden tree boxes to repopulate the birds. All of this must seem very odd to the neighbors. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2040.Just a short while ago, in the midst of one of Italy’s darkest political hours when forming a functioning government seemed like an exercise in futility, someone sent me a Facebook petition proposing Angelo Gaja as a candidate for President of the Republic of Italy. Although Angelo himself would brush it off as jest, that seedling of a (good) idea took the Internet by firestorm. What he has demonstrated over the years, besides from his infectious enthusiasm and keen ability to communicate his thoughts with brilliant clarity and gumption, is a natural ability for leadership. Barbaresco is lucky to have an Angelo Gaja, the Langhe is lucky to have him, and Italy is, too.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPThe 2010 Sorì San Lorenzo jumps from the glass with lavender, violets, plums, smoke and licorice, all in a lifted, precise style built on finesse. The tannins are remarkably sweet and polished for such a young wine. The pulsating fruit and sense of structure are reminiscent of the 1999, but here, there is perhaps a little more finesse and slightly more compelling balance.Antonio Galloni | 97 AGAromas of marble, dried cherries and iron, with hints of iodine. Full-bodied, tannic and chewy, yet balanced and refined all the same. This needs the most age of the single-vineyard, 2010 Gaja Nebbiolos. Try in 2018.James Suckling | 96 JSThis muscular red features ample fruit, with a fine quality to the stiff tannins, offering loads of cherry, tar and sandalwood flavors, with excellent length. Give this a few years. Best from 2016 through 2032. 500 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

Luca Currado is on a roll. This is the third vintage (in as many years) that blows me off my feet. The 2010 Barolo Riserva Villero is a spectacular achievement and a wine that we all aspire to have in our cellars. There is a level of truism here—an authentic portrait of the Nebbiolo grape—that is outstanding. The fruit from Villero saw 45 days of skin maceration and few rackings. The wines of Vietti are always made in reduction to guarantee their long aging future. The bouquet offers many fleeting aromas that add to its enormous complexity. You get wild berry, licorice, anise seed and a touch of iron rust. On average, this very special wine is only released every four years.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 99 RPThis Barolo is built on an expansive scale and it has a stunning concentration that literally takes your breath away. Although it’s already seven years old, the beautifully crafted tannins and acidity make this very lively at the super long finish. Drink or hold. This has several decades of life ahead of it.James Suckling | 98 JSVirile and imposing in the glass, the 2010 Barolo Riserva Villero packs a serious punch. Swaths of tannin wrap around a huge core of fruit in a dark, virile Barolo that shows the more brooding side of the vintage. Sage, tobacco, menthol, violet and smoke add nuance throughout. Readers will have to be patient, as the tannins are likely to remain formidable for many years to come. As outstanding as the Villero is, it is never the most compelling Barolo in the Vietti range. Frankly, the pricing for the Riserva is more the result of managed scarcity rather than purely of the quality of what is in the bottle.Antonio Galloni | 96 AGA harmonious red, this features expressive aromas of rose, cherry, licorice, tar and tobacco. The dense, refined tannins are beginning to mellow, and this is starting to reveal its potential. Still has a ways to go, so forget about it for another two to three years. Best from 2021 through 2043. 300 cases made, 58 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

The 2013 Barolo Cannubi is unusually deep and powerful, both of which bode very well for the future, but make the wine forbidding in the early going. Not that readers should be too concerned with drinking these wines young in the first place though. Firm tannins enshroud a core of expressive fruit in a Barolo that is going to need time to fully emerge. Even so, the Cannubi is super-impressive today.Vinous Media | 95 VMNew leather, pressed rose, violet, baking spice and crushed herb are just some of the aromas you’ll find in this textbook Barolo. Firm yet loaded with finesse, the palate offers red cherry, strawberry compote, cinnamon and clove notes set against a backdrop of youthfully austere tannins and bright acidity. A licorice note lingers on the finish. Give it time to fully bloom. Drink 2023–2033. Wine Enthusiast | 94 WE

This is a phenomenal Barolo from a benchmark vintage. It’s so powerful and structured with toned and muscular tannins that run the length of the wine. Classic structure. Full-bodied but tight and intense. Flavors of forest floor, fresh mushroom, truffle, and cedar. Dried flowers, too. It goes on for minutes. This needs at least eight years to soften. Leave in the cellar! One of the greatest Cannubis ever. From the original parcel of the vineyard. Aged five years in cask and two years in bottle. Try after 2030.James Suckling | 100 JSFresh, harmonious and long, with cherry, plum, toast, sandalwood and forest aromas and flavors, this red is mellowing, with hints of mushroom and leather seeping in, along with tobacco and mint. Best from 2025 through 2045. 500 cases made, 100 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSOnly released in the best vintages, the Damilano 2016 Barolo Riserva Cannubi 1752 (with 6,000 bottles made) starts off a bit slow like some of the other wines in this portfolio and requires a little extra time to open. That shy beginning slowly embraces dark fruit, blackcurrant, peat moss and crushed stone. This Riserva offers an extra layer of density and power (with a 15% alcohol content). It would benefit from clarity on the bouquet, and surely this will come with time.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPAromas recalling purple flower, baked plum, tobacco and cake spice form the nose. On the full-bodied palate, tightly knit, velvety tannins seamlessly support dried cherry, licorice and mocha before closing on notes of blood orange and a hint of saline. Drink 2026–2031. Abv: 15% Kerin O’Keefe | 93 KO

There’s such purity of fruit to this with both dried and ripe strawberries and citrus rind. It’s full-bodied and structured with layers of ripe tannins that are fine and polished. Tight at the end. Give this two or three years to open and soften. Try in 2024.James Suckling | 94 JSThis is one of the most versatile wines to emerge from Italy in recent years. A bread and butter winner for Vietti, the 2017 Barolo Castiglione is sharply contoured and bright, with an excellent quality of fruit that can be described as crisp, tonic and rich. That extra concentration comes in part from the hot vintage; however, the greater Castiglione growing area delivers consistent quality and persistence above all else.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPCastiglione is from a collection of vineyards across Barolo, from vines that are 10 to 45 years old. Each of the parcels are fermented and aged separately prior to the final blending and are aged for approximately 30 months in oak casks and barriques. The 2017 Barolo Castiglione has pure aromas of fennel, fresh cherry, and cinnamon. Balanced and energetic on the palate, there is ripe cranberry, blood orange, and dried roses, with fine tannins. Vibrant and approachable out of the gate, this is a wonderful entry from the Vietti estate. Drink 2021-2034.Jeb Dunnuck | 93 JDVietti’s blended Barolo is bold and ripe in the 2017 vintage, its red-cherry and strawberry flavors framed by ferrous tannins that infuse the wine with cool energy. As usual, two-thirds of the fruit for Castiglione comes from Ravera, a cool corner of Barolo where winds from the Alps helped preserve acidity and kept the fruit tones crunchy and bright. Scents of fresh violets and rose petals accent the wine and add to its appeal.Wine & Spirits Magazine | 93 W&SThe 2017 Barolo Castiglione is a wild, exotic wine. Super-ripe red cherry, kirsch, cinnamon, tobacco, new leather and rose petal all flesh out in this ample, voluptuous Barolo from Vietti. The 2017 is a wine of significant heft hidden behind a wall of tannin. Give it a few years to soften or open it well in advance. Time brings out striking translucence as well as finesse.Vinous Media | 92 VMFrom a selection of small vineyards in Castiglione Falletto, with vines aged between 10 and 43 years old planted on clay-limestone soils. Castiglione is aged for about 30 months in oak casks as well as barriques, and the result is a wine with intense violet and orange peel notes over red fruit aromas, with spices in depth. Tense and supple, the palate features assertive tannins at present but has the shoulders to age well, improving both integration and complexity.Decanter | 91 DECThis is rich and round, delivering cherry, plum, tar and menthol flavors. Dense with tannins, this shows a rustic side on the dry finish, yet remains long and echoing cherry and berry notes. Best from 2024 through 2040. 8,346 cases made, 1,800 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

The 2017 Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda is flat out stunning. All the purest essence of Rionda comes through in a captivating Barolo that dazzles. Sweet red cherry fruit, kirsch, rose petal, licorice and blood orange are some of the many aromas and flavors that lift from the glass. Exotic and racy, the 2017 is a flat-out stunner. Now, for the million dollar question. Is it better than the 2016? Right now, I give an edge to the 2017 for its greater finesse and total sense of exotic beauty. But time will be the judge. I do look forward to tasting the 2016 and 2017 side by side!Vinous Media | 98 VMThis is a gorgeous wine, and although it could stand more years of aging, you’re not wrong to enjoy it in the near or medium term either. The 2017 Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda is packed tight with dark fruit, but it also shows a delicately savory edge with black licorice and rusty metal. The wine’s intensity and the mouthfeel are sublime. Aging sees it go into botte for 36 months followed by another 36 months in bottle before its release. Production is 12,500 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPA traditional style with long fermentation and maceration in oak vats at a temperature of around 30°C, then aged in large Slavonian oak barrels for up to 42 months, followed by a further 24 months in the bottle. The nose is impressively fresh and vibrant, with a mix of white pepper, watermelon, wild strawberry and mint leaf. Less restrained than usual, on the palate the attack is firm, still young, and chewy, with brilliant long acidity and a cherry kernel finish. It deserves time to develop more complexity.Decanter | 96 DECThe 2017 Massolino Vigna Rionda Barolo Riserva has a super-bright clarity and intensity to its ruby color. On the nose, sweet red fruits combine with just-ripe cherry, wild rose and gentle cream notes but everything is beautifully restrained and elegant. On the palate it has a very lovely, silky and fine texture with flavors similar to the aromas. The tannins are super-refined but with plenty of chalky density - this vineyard is in Serralunga after all - a commune famous for its tannins! The finish is mouth-wateringly fresh. What a super-pure, bright and vivacious wine! Keep three to four years, but it will drink well for probably 35 to 40.The Wine Independent | 96 TWINotes of wild strawberries and sour cherries with dried flowers and chocolate orange undertones. Medium- to full-bodied, very polished and fine-grained, showcasing subtle notes of red fruit with a mineral backbone. Even and balanced with a textural finish. Great to drink after 2025 but will age further.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2017 Vigna Rionda from Massolino impresses with aromas of forest floor, leather, camphor, wild berry and a whiff of blue flower. It’s brooding and firm, featuring dried cherry, crushed mint, cake spice and tangy mineral framed in tightly-knit, fine-grained tannins. Surprisingly fresh acidity keeps it lifted.It’s a phenomenal showing for what was such a dry, scorching vintage. Drink 2029–2037. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KO

Combining power, intensity, class and great fruit, Produttori’s 2019 Montestefano Riserva is a phenomenal wine and a quintessential expression of this fantastic cru. It opens with heady aromas of new leather, Alpine herb, pressed rose, ripe dark-skinned berry and forest floor. It has the most Barolo-like structure of all the firm’s crus, delivering ripe Morello cherry, succulent raspberry, licorice and tobacco alongside a network of firm tannins that are more reminiscent of Serralunga than Barbaresco. A magnificent wine, with incredible aging potential. Drink 2031–2049. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 99 KOThe 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano is perhaps the most complete of the 2019 Riservas at this stage. It offers fine depth, plenty of tannin and nascent emerging inner sweetness to tie it all together. A wine of stature and textural depth, the Montestefano is my early favorite in this lineup.Vinous Media | 95 VM

he 2019 Ovello Riserva is succulent and enveloping, offering scents of dark-skinned berry, forest floor, violet and new leather. Full-bodied with impressive structure and fruit, it boasts ripe raspberry, black cherry and licorice supported by firm, close-grained tannins that provide the backbone. Fresh acidity keeps it well balanced. Drink 2029–2044. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOThe 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello is powerful, savory and intensely linear, in classico Ovello style, and yet it appears to have enough fruit behind its imposing tannins to develop well over the coming years. In this tasting, the Ovello feels pretty closed post bottling, but its inherent balance and qualities are there. Clean saline notes extend the finish in promising fashion.Vinous Media | 94 VM

Balsamic aromas of camphor mingle with pressed rose, wild berry, new leather and dark spice. Showing intensity and structure, the full-bodied, delicious palate boasts a weightless concentration, delivering fleshy raspberry, blood orange, almond liqueur and licorice alongside tightly woven, velvety tannins. Fresh acidity lifts the rich flavors and provides great balance. Drink 2028–2039. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KOThe 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà is redolent of dark fruit, crushed rocks, graphite, sage, menthol and lavender all race across the palate, supported by bracing, young Rabajà tannins that make themselves felt. This mid-weight, powerhouse Barbaresco packs quite a punch.Vinous Media | 94 VM

The 2021 Barbaresco is exquisite. Bright and delineated, with tons of energy, the 2021 bristles with saline-infused energy. Red berry fruit, blood orange, chalk, mint and white pepper lend tons of energy to this deceptively mid-weight, nervy young Barbaresco. Vineyard sites are Ovello, Cole and Loreto.Vinous Media | 94 VM

The 2021 Barbaresco Montefico Vigna Bric Mentina is a classic. Crushed flowers, salt, white pepper, rose petal and lavender race across the palate. Just bottled, the 2021 is quite nervous, but it conveys striking energy and translucent finesse. The aromatics alone are beguiling. All this needs is time. In other words, it is classic Montefico.Vinous Media | 97 VM

The 2021 Barbaresco Montestefano is one of the very best young wines I have tasted here. Dark, rich and intense, but also light on its feet, the 2021 dazzles from the very first taste. Dark red/blue fruit, lavender, licorice, gravel, dried herbs and menthol open with a bit of coaxing. The Montestefano possesses striking mid-palate depth, compelling inner perfume and mind-blowing balance. I loved it.Vinous Media | 98 VM

A brightly jeweled ruby hue, the 2021 Barbaresco is super-expressive, with loads of wild raspberries that leap from the glass along with notes of strawberries, pressed roses, fresh orange, and violet. As it opens, it evens picks up some spice box, cigar incense, and cherry notes. Crystalline in nature and ripe, this next-level red delivers ripe, sweet tannins, great tension, and fresh, vibrant acidity, without any austerity. A luxury racecar, it’s fantastic and possibly the wine of the year. Drink 2025-2055.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThe 2021 classic Barbaresco from Gaja is drop-dead gorgeous. Made with 14 estate vineyards that are vinified separately before being assembled into the final blend, it’s all about finesse, delivering sensations of juicy raspberry, red cherry, cinnamon, camphor and white pepper before a long, star anise and saline mineral close. Taut, refined tannins and bright acidity provide the age-worthy structure. Drink 2027–2036. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KO