Piedmont Wines

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The 1961 Barolo from Cantina Mascarello (magnum) was masculine, powerful and impressively rich for a wine of this vintage, while the 1958 Barolo (magnum) fared less well. The 1958 can be a legendary wine, but on this night the wine was exceedingly evolved.Vinous Media | 95 VMIt had been nearly a decade since I last tasted a bottle of the 1961 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo and the wine has seemingly not been touched by time in the interim. Perhaps this most recent bottle was just in even better condition than the previous bottles I have enjoyed, but my projected window of drinkability for this wine back in the article on Bartolo in the fall of 2007 now seems rather ridiculously conservative. The utterly brilliant bouquet shows plenty of Cannubi character in its complex blend of red and black cherries, woodsmoke, gamebirds, gentle tariness, tobacco ash, spiced meats, coffee and a topnote of fresh oregano. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very pure, with a sappy core of fruit, stunning soil inflection, melting tannins, bright acids and stunning length and grip on the very complex and refined finish. Clearly, the last few bottles of this wine that I tasted were a touch more advanced, and this wine still has many, many years of life still ahead of it. A beautiful bottle of Barolo. (Drink between 2011 - 2025)John Gilman | 94 JG

A comparison of two 1961s from Giacomo Conterno is next. Conterno’s 1961 Barolo Riserva Speciale Monfortino is, not surprisingly, deeper and more intense in all of its dimensions. Iron, smoke, graphite, leather and sweet tobacco wrap around a core of dark fruit in a Barolo that packs a serious punch, especially considering its age. This is a superb bottle.Vinous Media | 95 VMThe 1961 Barolo Riserva Monfortino was especially beautiful and fresh. It offered a similar flavor profile as the 1958 with greater harmony and balance, if not quite as much sheer power.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RP

Full-bodied, unctuous and powerful in the glass, the 1985 Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano is a total turn on. Exotic spice, smoke, tobacco, dried rose petal, leather and licorice build into a heady crescendo of aromas, flavors and textures. Although the 1985 is currently at a glorious peak of expression, I don’t expect it will improve much from here. Readers lucky enough to have had the 1985 know just how magical it is. Any remaining bottles are best enjoyed over the next decade or so.Vinous Media | 97 VMThe 1985 Barbaresco Santo Stefano Riserva’s medium ruby/garnet color displays considerable amber at the edge. The intoxicating perfume of Chinese black tea, smoke, tobacco, cherries, and exotic spices jumps from the glass. The wine is full-bodied, gorgeously-nuanced, and multidimensional, with considerable glycerin and layers of flavor. It unfolds fabulously in the mouth, exhibiting remarkable intensity and complexity. The 1985 has just reached full maturity, where it should remain for another decade.Robert Parker | 96 RPGiven how many bottles of the 1982 Santa Stefano Red Label I have drunk over the years, it is surprising that I have seldom had the pleasure to drink the superb 1985 version, and it is more than fifteen years since I last crossed paths with this wine. It is a fine, fine wine, but not one of the legends of the decade of the 1980s from Signor Giacosa. The bouquet wafts from the glass in a nicely blossomed blend of red and black cherries, bonfire, a touch of road tar, lovely soil tones, oregano and a topnote of fresh bay leaf. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, complex and still sporting a bit of backend tannin, with fine focus and grip, a good, solid core and a long, well-balanced finish. This is a very good bottle that misses the extra dimension of the 1982 and 1989 versions. (Drink between 2017 - 2040)John Gilman | 93 JG

Stunning, almost buttery in its richness, smooth, rich and complex, has power and finesse, plus chocolatey richness that can only become greater. Has the fruit of Barbaresco, the finesse and elegance of Bordeaux and the power and intensity of California.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

Bruno Giacosa, like Bartolo Mascarello, often told me he preferred 1986 to 1985. Of course, 1985 is the vintage that got all the press, while 1986 is remembered for a devastating hailstorm in May that decimated production. Very little wine was made that year, but what was bottled turned out to be quite good, and in some cases, better than that. Sadly, this is not a great bottle of Bruno Giacosa’s 1986 Barolo Riserva. The overall impression is of a delicate, lifted, fully mature Barolo. Only the memory of better bottles helps put this one into context, because taken on its own, this is still a very fine bottle of Barolo.Vinous Media | 94 VMAmazing fresh fruit. Loads of berry, cherry and spice. A beauty. Long and soft. Reviewed in a non-blind tasting. Drink now.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

The 1990 Barolo Riserva Collina Rionda, on the other hand is fabulous. I have had very mixed experiences with this wine over the years, but not tonight. The 1990 is rich, powerful and supple from start to finish. In other words, it is a pure 1990.Vinous Media | 95 VMThe 1990 Barolo Riserva Collina Rionda is a wine that frankly I never found fully satisfying. The fruit shows slight elements of over-ripeness and pruniness, while the volatile acidity is at the extreme limit of what most tasters, me included, are likely to find acceptable. Still, it is impossible to ignore the wine’s sheer density, richness and volume. Readers who can look past these imperfections will find much to admire here – and indeed most any producer would be thrilled to have made a wine like this – but by Bruno Giacosa standards, the 1990 Collina Rionda falls a touch short of immortality. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2025.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPMy good friend Mannie Berk of The Rare Wine Company is always quick to point out to me when I express relative dissatisfaction with the 1990 vintage in Piemonte that “the vintage was far better in Barbaresco than in Barolo.” While the 1990 Collina Rionda is a very good, young bottle of Barolo, it does not seem likely to reach the same levels of brilliance found in both the Santa Stefano and Asili Riservas from this vintage from Signor Giacosa. The bouquet offers up a still fairly closed blend of red and black cherries, soil tones, bay leaf, woodsmoke and roasted game. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and hermetically sealed still, with little signs of generosity on the attack and a still rather assertive structural chassis. There is good depth at the core, but not the great sappiness (yet?) one finds in so many great Giacosas, with firm, chewy tannins and very good, but not great length on the focused finish. Perhaps this is still just way too young and its greatness is masked, but my gut feeling that it is not destined for the very top division of Signor Giacosa’s wines from this decade. (Drink between 2025 - 2060)John Gilman | 92+ JG

I remember paying what at the time seemed like a small fortune for bottles of Giacosa’s 1990 Barolo Riserva Falletto at Peck’s Enoteca in Milan. What I would give today to be able to buy more at the same tariff! The 1990 Barolo Riserva Falletto is one of Bruno Giacosa’s most towering wines. Period. Rich, layered and opulent, this mineral-driven, powerful Barolo covers every inch of the palate with masses of dark fruit, smoke, soy, plums, menthol, dried roses, pine and a host of other balsamic overtones. This vivid, kaleidoscopic Barolo is a reference-point wine readers won’t want to miss. As always, the Riserva Falletto is virile and authoritative in tone. Simply put, it its profound. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2030.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPI remember paying what at the time seemed like a small fortune for bottles of Giacosa's 1990 Barolo Riserva Falletto at Peck's Enoteca in Milan. What I would give today to be able to buy more at the same tariff! The 1990 Barolo Riserva Falletto is one of Bruno Giacosa's most towering wines. Period. Rich, layered and opulent, this mineral-driven, powerful Barolo covers every inch of the palate with masses of dark fruit, smoke, soy, plums, menthol, dried roses, pine and a host of other balsamic overtones. This vivid, kaleidoscopic Barolo is a reference-point wine readers won't want to miss. As always, the Riserva Falletto is virile and authoritative in tone. Simply put, it its profound.Vinous Media | 98 VM

The opaque ruby/purple-colored 1996 Barolo Cannubi is a powerfully built, uncompromising wine with huge extract, brawny earthy, cherry, licorice, and tobacco flavors, and high levels of tannin. It is a traditionally made Barolo that requires a decade of cellaring. Everything is present for future brilliance, but patience will be essential. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2025.Robert Parker | 91-94 RPBig and powerful, with lots of fruit and a minty, woody character. Starting to come around now. Full-bodied, silky and excellent.--1996 Piedmont retrospective. Best after 2008. 460 cases made.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

The 1996 Barolo Falletto de Serralunga (Red Label Riserva) possesses extraordinary presence and stature. Dark garnet/ruby-colored, it offers a tight but promising nose of road tar, scorched earth, truffles, blackberries, cherries, and espresso. This muscular, massive wine gave me chills. It is an exquisite, virtually perfect Barolo that requires a decade of cellaring, and should last for 30-40 years. I remember wishing I were twenty years younger when I tasted it prior to bottling ... I still feel the same way. Awesome! Anticipated maturity: 2010-2040.Robert Parker | 98 RPAs much as I don't believe in the idea of competition in wine, there is simply no doubt that Bruno Giacosa's 1996 Barolo Riserva Falletto is both one of the greatest wines he ever made and also the single most emotionally moving wine from Piedmont's 1996 vintage. Once again, the 1996 Barolo Riserva Falletto more than lives up to its lofty reputation. The wine needs time in the decanter for some initial VA funk to blow off, but when it does, what emerges is a Barolo of utterly captivating beauty. Bruno Giacosa’s finest wines are defined by haunting inner sweetness and extraordinary perfume. The 1996 has all that, and so much more, starting with a full vibrant red color and tons of intensity. Time has mellowed the tannins to some degree, but my sense is that the 1996 will always remain somewhat brutish in feel. Even so, there is no denying its allure. Readers lucky enough to own the 1996 should be ecstatic. It is one of the world’s truly great, great wines.Vinous Media | 98 VMTerrific aromas of crushed fruit, Indian spices and dried flowers follow though to a full-bodied palate, with silky tannins and a long, long finish. Just a baby, but very balanced and pretty.--1996 Piedmont retrospective. Best after 2009. 200 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

The 1997 Le Vigne is edged by the 1997 Barolo Cannubi Boschis that follows. Ample and incredibly inviting, the 1997 Cannubi Boschis is a wine of total sensuality. An exotic mélange of dark cherry, plum, leather and spice melds into the super-expressive finish. All of a sudden the conversation stops at the dinner table. That is what great wines can do.Vinous Media | 98 VMThe prodigious 1997 Barolo Cannubi Boschis possesses a dark saturated garnet color. The sweet nose of black fruits, minerals, scorched earth, smoke, dried herbs, and wet stones is stunning. Amazingly concentrated, with tremendous unctuousity yet superb delineation, this large-scaled as well as elegant Barolo possesses fabulous extract as well as a multidimensional mid-palate and finish. It is an amazing effort! Anticipated maturity: 2003-2020.Robert Parker | 96 RPMedium ruby red color. Very opulent aromas of plum, roses and spice. Full-bodied, with exotic fruit flavors and layers of silky tannins. Amazing fruit. Breathtaking. Hard not to drink now. Even better than I remember.--1997 Italian blind retrospective. Best after 2010. 1,080 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WS

The 1998 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is a monumental effort. A deep dark red, it opens with a huge nose of licorice, roses and cocoa, then flows onto the palate with masses of sweet, concentrated dark fruit that go on forever. Notes of mineral and leather gradually develop in the glass, adding further complexity as this great wine begins to reveal its expansive and profound personality. The 1998 is unusually open right now. As was the case with the 1997 at this stage, it should offer a brief drinking window over the next 6 months or so before shutting down for what is likely to be an extended period prior to awakening in the glorious prime of its life. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2023.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe 1998 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is a monumental effort. A deep dark red, it opens with a huge nose of licorice, roses and cocoa, then flows onto the palate with masses of sweet concentrated dark fruit that go on forever. Notes of mineral and leather gradually develop in the glass, adding further complexity as this great wine begins to reveal its expansive and profound personality. The 1998 is unusually open right now. As was the case with the 1997 at this stage, it should offer a brief drinking window over the next 6 months or so before shutting down for what is likely to be an extended period prior to awakening in the glorious prime of its life.Vinous Media | 97 VMDecadent and ripe, with wonderfully seductive aromas of white truffle, plum and leather. Full-bodied, with supersoft tannins and amazing fruit and Christmas cake character. All in finesse and beauty. All in place.Wine Spectator | 94 WS(Barolo “Monfortino” Riserva Speciale - Giacomo Conterno) The 1998 Monfortino is a superb bottle in the making, which comes as no surprise as any time the Conternos decide to put a Monfortino label on a new release, it is a guarantee of quality. The 1998 offers up a very deep and typically black fruity nose of black cherries, dark berries, licorice, camphor, road tar, woodsmoke and a fine base of soil. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, deep and laser-like in its focus, with a rock solid core of fruit, firm, well-integrated tannins, and outstanding length and grip on the very youthful and tangy finish. This will need every bit of twelve or fifteen years of bottle age to begin to blossom, and should prove to be an especially long-lived vintage of Monfortino. (Drink between 2020-2075).John Gilman | 94 JG

The 1999 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is simply epic, as it always has been. A Barolo of statuesque, profound beauty, the 1999 very clearly belongs among the greatest Monfortinos ever made. The 1999 lifts out of the glass with soaring aromatics, sculpted fruit and huge tannins that somehow are not at all intrusive. Hints of rose petal, tar, orange peel and spice round out the phenomenal finish. The 1999 is the sort of Barolo that classicists dream of being able to drink. And on this night, it is truly special.Antonio Galloni | 99 AGThe 1999 Barolo Riserva Monfortino takes things to another level, hard as that may be to believe. It is deeply expressive in its aromatics, with breathtaking nuances of roses, menthol, spices and licorice that emerge from the glass, melding seamlessly onto the palate where complex layers of dark ripe fruit captivate the taster in an endless counterpoint of aromas, flavors and sensations that are hard to fully capture with mere words. Boasting much intensity and a more full-bodied structure than the 1998, with building tannins that define the eternal finish, it is wine to taste now and over the next 6-9 months before it begins to shut down. Sampled from both bottle and magnum, it is a remarkable wine in every way, and is sure to take a place among the great Monfortinos of all time. Those fortunate enough to own Monfortinos from the recent string of vintages dating back to 1995 as well as the equally promising 2000 and 2001 will no doubt enjoy debating the merits of these remarkable wines for years and decades to come. The 1999 Monfortino remains one of the greatest young wines I have ever tasted. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2039.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RP(Barolo “Monfortino” Riserva Speciale - Giacomo Conterno) In much the same manner as the comparisons between the 2001 and 1999 Cascina Francia, the 1999 Monfortino is much more open for inspection today than its 2001 counterpart. Which vintage will ultimately be the superior wine will be a delicious debate for the next fifty or more years, as both wines are legends in the making. The 1999 Monfortino offers up a brilliant and utterly profound bouquet of black cherries, blood orange, road tar, woodsmoke, fresh herbs, and a kaleidoscopic base of soil. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, deep and very powerful, with a brilliant core of sappy fruit, stunning purity and focus, perfect balance and a very, very long, palate-staining and ripely tannic finish. Another utterly humbling young vintage of Monfortino. (Drink between 2020-2075).John Gilman | 96 JG

The 1999 Barbera d'Alba Gallina is awesome! I am not sure it will get any better since Barbera is not one of the most noble varietals in terms of complexity and intensity. It does, however, offer glorious levels of concentration as well as a huge nose of smoked meats, blackberry, cherry, and strawberry jam intertwined with licorice, new oak, and barbecue spice. Viscous, remarkably dense and sexy, it is impossible to resist. For drinking now and over the next 4-5 years, this is as profound a dry red wine as readers will find.Robert Parker | 96 RPThe 1999 Barbaresco Vigneto Gallina has aged beautifully. Dark cherries, plums, smoke, tobacco, incense and mocha are some of the many notes that are woven together in the 1999 Gallina. Frankly, this is an eye-opening wine. The Gallina is impressive when it is young, but it has a way of firming up very nicely in bottle. I have seen that before, and in this tasting, I see it again. Readers who still own the 1999 Gallina are in for a treat.Vinous Media | 94 VMDecadent aromas of sliced mushroom and red fruit follow through to a full body, with fine tannins and a fruity finish. Balanced and attractive.—'99 Piedmont blind retrospective (2009). Best after 2011. 1,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

Oddly enough, from magnum, the 2000 Barolo is magnificent, with none of the imperfections I have found in so many of my bottles. The wine shows considerable 2000 personality in its warm, radiant fruit, but the large format has maintained freshness and verve. Readers who can find the 2000 in magnum will want to consider it.Vinous Media | 96 VMPure floral red berries and refined tannins; an essence of Barolo. Drinking Window 2022 - 2045Decanter | 95 DECGorgeous, exotic nose, with plums, prunes, cedar and mushrooms. Full-bodied and hedonistic, with loads of ripe fruit and spices underneath. Long and velvety. This is magnificent. The maestro of classic Barolos pulls out all the stops. Best after 2008. 1,390 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WSI found a bottle of this in Otto Restaurant in New York City last night and had to drink it. You know I am a fan of the 2000 vintage for Barolo. It was a very sunny and warm year making rich and ripe Barolos. Some said the wines would not age well because they were too ripe but I thought otherwise. The 2000 Barolos I currently am drinking show only youth. The 2000 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo last night was a good example. I really appreciate well-made bottles from this tradition-bound producer. This wine showed aromas and flavors of hazelnut, milk chocolate and berry. It was full and round with soft tannins and a pretty finish. This is wonderfully balanced. Bright and lively. Drink now or hold.James Suckling | 94 JSOddly enough, from magnum, the 2000 Barolo is magnificent, with none of the imperfections I have found in so many of my bottles. The wine shows considerable 2000 personality in its warm, radiant fruit and sensual personality, but the large format has maintained freshness and verve. Readers who can find the 2000 in magnum will want to consider the wine Anticipated maturity: 2012-2025.After many years I have finally concluded that Bartolo Mascarello’s 2000 Barolo will always remain a mystery to me.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

Loads of blackberry, cherry and dark licorice character. Full-bodied and velvety, with chewy tannins and a long finish. Pretty. Loads of depth and style. Gorgeous. Sandrone makes the best Cannubi. Almost as great as the 2000. Best after 2008. 840 cases made, 215 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSThe 2001 Barolo Cannubi Boschis is in a beautiful place right now. The aromas are starting to show the early signs of maturity, but there is plenty of fruit and depth in the glass. Sweet, layered and impeccable, the 2001 turns silky and delicate as its sits in the glass. Today my sense is that the 2001 won’t be one of the more long-lived vintages. Hints of licorice, dried flowers and new leather are woven into the rich, textured, fabric. This is a great showing for the Cannubi Boschis. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2021.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2001 Barolo Cannubi Boschis is in a beautiful place right now. The aromas are starting to show the early signs of maturity, but there is plenty of fruit and depth in the glass. Sweet, layered and impeccable, the 2001 turns silky and delicate as its sits in the glass. Today my sense is that the 2001 won't be one of the more long-lived vintages. Hints of licorice, dried flowers and new leather are woven into the rich, textured, fabric. This is a great showing for the Cannubi Boschis.Vinous Media | 95 VM

Conterno’s 2002 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is a legend in the making, or now that it is in bottle, it may be more correct to simply say it is a legend. The late Giovanni Conterno and his son Roberto Conterno created quite a stir when they announced that they would make their Monfortino in 2002, a year in which most of the harvest in Piedmont was severely compromised by a cold summer and devastating hail in early September. But there was more. The Conternos not only announced that they would make their Monfortino in 2002 but no Barolo Cascina Francia for the first time ever in the estate’s history. In a bit of defiance towards the press, the Conternos then announced no one would be allowed to taste the wine from barrel. Over the years, this stance softened. Visitors lucky enough to visit the cellars and sample the wine from cask knew what was in store. Simply put, the 2002 Monfortino is stratospheric. A dark, imposing, but sensual wine, it flows from the glass with a breathtaking array of dried roses, autumn leaves, wild cherries, plums, new leather, espresso, licorice and spices, showing phenomenal depth, richness and balance. The tension between the luxuriousness of the fruit and the austerity of the vintage is truly captivating. I have tasted the 2002 Monfortino multiple times from barrel and bottle. At times it has reminded me of what I imagine the 1971 tasted like upon release, at other times it has seemed more similar to 1978. According to Giovanni Conterno, the 2002 reminded him of the 1971. Either way, the wine is extraordinary. The 2002 Monfortino is the result of the cold vintage that was typical of Piedmont up until the mid 1980s. In many ways, it is a throwback to wines that can’t be made anymore in Piedmont. Roberto Conterno thought so highly of the 2002 Monfortino he gave the wine an extra year in barrrel. And of course, there is one sad footnote. The world lost Giovanni Conterno to cancer in 2004, but he made sure his last Monfortino was at least equal, if not better, than his most monumental wines. There is little doubt the 2002 Monfortino will soon take its place as one of the greatest Monfortinos ever made. It is the most fitting last chapter to the life of one of the world’s greatest winemakers. As always, I suggest readers who have an interest in Monfortino taste the wine as soon as possible, as it will soon head into a period of dormancy, which in this vintage may last several decades. One of my favorite vintages for current drinking is the 1970, which still looks to have another 30 years of fine drinking ahead of it! Anticipated maturity: 2027-2052.Few properties are so closely linked with a single site as Giacomo Conterno. Since 1978 the Cascina Francia vineyard in Serralunga, a monopole holding, has been the source of all of the estate’s wines, including the Baroli Cascina Francia and Monfortino, rightly considered by most observers as among the most profound wines in the world. Needless to say, it was big news when proprietor Roberto Conterno purchased three hectares in Ceretta, also in Serralunga, in 2008. Would the new wines reflect the same house aesthetic as the wines from Cascina Francia, or would the terroir of Ceretta be the dominant factor? Could Ceretta yield wines of similar importance as those of Cascina Francia? After all, Cascina Francia was a cornfield with a few old vines from a past life when the Conternos purchased it in 1974. These were some of the questions Barolo lovers asked, and now, two years later some answers have begun to emerge. The first, and most obvious, is that the new wines are loaded with the Conterno house style. That said, they are works in progress. Roberto Conterno took over his parcels in Cerretta in mid-2008, after which he had the misfortune of suffering through several hailstorms. When I visited the new vineyards in the summer of 2008 Conterno told me he thought it would take two to three years for the vines to respond to his methods of viticulture. Clearly 2008 is not the optimal vintage by which to measure the ultimate potential of these wines, but there appears to be much to look forward to based on the 2009s I tasted from barrel recently. All of that said, the star among these new releases is without question the 2002 Monfortino, a wine that is destined to carve a place for itself as one of the greatest wines ever made. That it is the product of a vintage that was disastrous for nearly every other producer in Piedmont will only add to the shroud of mystique that has surrounded this wine since its birth.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPThe 2002 Monfortino is one of the most iconic Conterno wines in recent memory for the reasons described above. Interestingly, the additional year in cask has made the 2002 much more approachable in its youth than most other vintages, so opening a bottle at this stage is not as crazy as it might seem on paper. The 2002 impresses for its depth, concentration and complexity. Tonight, it is superb. Tasted from magnum.Antonio Galloni | 98 AGThis is incredibly fresh, vibrant and expressive, exhibiting complex aromas of red fruits, tar and licorice, with strawberry, sweet tobacco and mineral flavors. Intense and elegant at once, with finesse and structure, ending with a saline and mineral aftertaste. Try it in five years. Best from 2014 through 2040. 1,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 98 WSWhat a wine. In a year where the rainfall was more than two times the norm Giacomo really impresses. This wine is an ever evolving (even in the glass!) experience. On the nose it has fresh mint and licorice then a wave of roses, berries, and cherries. On the palate there is more of the same, tons of berries, licorice and roses. Incredibly full and ultra-velvety. This is a dense wine that does not lack depth and focus. Breathtaking balance and a incredible finish that is measured in minutes not seconds. Harmonious.James Suckling | 97 JS

The 2004 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is drop-dead gorgeous. I have tasted the wine multiple times from barrel and three times from bottle and never been anything less than blown away. The 2004 is a subtle, layered Monfortino that captures the sheer elegance and finesse of this great vintage. It is sweet, perfumed, silky and utterly mind-blowing. From barrel it has always been a 100 point wine, but it has just been bottled and naturally a bit closed in on itself. Still, with some time in the glass its silky, perfumed fruit and dazzling class come to life. The 2004 is remarkably harmonious for such a young wine. Readers will have much fun debating which is the greatest Monfortino of recent years. Could it be the 1996, 1999 or 2002 for their huge structure and classicism? Or, is it the 1997 for its opulence? What if the dark horse 1998 and 2000 steal the show? Personally, I adore the 2001 and 2004 for their completeness, but the 2004 is the sexiest of them all. Sadly, 2004 is also the year Giovanni Conterno passed away, but one can’t escape the feeling his spirit lives in this wine. Kudos to Roberto Conterno and his team for this magnificent, thrilling Barolo. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2044.The drive from Barolo to Monforte was a little different this year. Peering across the valley over the hillside where the Conterno winery sits, the observant eye will notice a number of large barrels outside the main building. Roberto Conterno had no choice but to replace a number of his casks this year as the staves had begun to bend from many years of use, and Conterno was understandably afraid of the unthinkable, that the casks could finally yield to old age full of wine. Still, he was clearly upset by having to replace barrels that he personally moved into the new winery with his father during the summer of 1985. Just to think of the wines that were racked during that move. The 1978, 1979 and 1982 Monfortini were still in cask. To be honest, seeing the empty space in the winery as the new casks were about to arrive was quite a shock. The wines, however, were not. I tasted all of the wines currently in cask plus the new releases from bottle. My high expectations were easily surpassed. Conterno fans have a lot to look forward to. Roberto Conterno has decided to give his new Nebbiolo from the Cerretta vineyard another year in barrel. At the moment Conterno is leaning towards releasing the 2009 as a Langhe Nebbiolo rather than Barolo, although that could always change. Readers who want to learn more about the 2011 harvest at Conterno may want to take a look at my video interview with Roberto Conterno.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 100 RPThe 2004 Barolo Riserva Monfortino confirms its place as one of the finest Monfortinos ever made. From magnum, it is so special. The long growing season produced a Monfortino of unusual silkiness, perfume and elegance. In many ways, the 2004 is the first modern Monfortino – the first vintage that was gorgeous right out of the gate, qualities it shares with the 2008 and 2014, also wines from later-ripening vintages. Soaring aromatics and silky tannins give the 2004 so much sheer appeal that recall the 1982. The 2004 has long been one of my favorites, as it is again on this night.Vinous Media | 100 VM

The 2005 Barolo Riserva 150 Anniversario Rocche-Villero is one of the standouts of a very impressive lineup of Barolos. It races out of the blocks with a layered nose of enticing black fruit laced with melted tar, wilted rose petals and a subtle brine note. Medium-bodied on the palate, delivering firm tannins and counterbalanced by a perfect line of acidity, the dark berry fruit laced with dark chocolate and a hint of fennel. Reassuringly long on the finish, this is one delicious and captivating Barolo. Tasted at the Vinous off-line dinner at La Trompette.Vinous Media | 96 VM

A phenomenal red from the master of Barolo. Octogenarian Bruno Giacosa has made wines for seven decades—and this is one of his best. It builds beautifully on the palate, showing wonderful balance and vibrancy with superb depth of fruit. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 100 JSThe 2007 Barolo Riserva Falletto Vigna Le Rocche bursts onto the palate with masses of dark fruit. The Riserva is a decidedly dark, brooding wine in this vintage. Scorched earth, smoke, menthol, licorice and new leather flow with marvelous intensity all the way through to the powerful finish. Over time the classic Giacosa bouquet of dried rose petal emerges, rounding out this fabulous effort in grand style. The imposing tannins will require a measure of patience, but the 2007 Riserva is shaping up to be another magnificent, towering Barolo from Bruno Giacosa. Anticipated maturity: 2022-2042.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPA complex and subtle wine, featuring floral, cherry, licorice and tar aromas and flavors, with a tobacco element in the background. This is firm, balanced by a rich, supple texture and a long, savory-filled finish. Keeps getting better with air. A textbook Giacosa, displaying a combination of intensity and grace. Best from 2016 through 2030. 1,195 cases made, 170 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WSGood bright full red. Tight, high-pitched aromas of raspberry, spices, smoke and dried flowers. Initially much less sweet and open than the Faletto classico but dramatically gained flesh with air while retaining superb precision. Very deep wine but dominated by its spine today. Tannins are very suave. Offers superb depth of texture but today the classico is more floral and high-pitched.Vinous Media | 95+ VM

The 2007 Barolo Cannubi Boschis dazzles from start to finish. It shows marvelous delineation and freshness in its voluptuous, harmonious fruit, with no hard edges and an expansive, textured personality that conquers both the palate and intellect. Here, too, the oak is very well integrated, while the wine’s balance and overall sense of harmony are nothing short of stunning. This is one of the very finest vintages of Cannubi Boschis. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2032.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThis is very tannic and mouth puckering, with coffee and berry character but turns a little bitter. Full bodied, blockbuster style of Barolo. Massive. Give it five years. Wait until 2016.James Suckling | 97 JSYou really can’t beat the beauty of this Barolo. Rich, enduring and persistent, it offers a long array of blackberry, spice and cola-like aromas. The mouthfeel is spectacular thanks to a velvety texture that is backed by a pretty embroidery of cassis, licorice and spicy ginger flavors. Give this 10–15 more years of aging.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEGood bright, deep red. Sexy, deep nose offers cherry, smoke, dried rose and minerals. Plump, round, seamless and deep, with compelling sweetness to the cherry, raspberry, spice and mocha flavors. For all its sweetness, this terrific Barolo is remarkably penetrating too. The extremely long, palate-staining finish features big but sweet tannins that softened with time in the glass. This Sandrone bottling is as reliably great as a Bordeaux first growth.Vinous Media | 95 VMAromatic, with floral, red berry and spice notes, joined by a hint of tar and tobacco as this plays out on the finish. Elegant overall, as chewy tannins provide support. The finish turns savory, with a mineral accent. Best from 2014 through 2028. 150 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS