Piedmont Wines

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(Barbaresco “Asili di Barbaresco” Riserva- Bruno Giacosa) I would never dream of opening one of my bottles of 1996 Asili Riserva from Bruno Giacosa right now, as the wine is still a good decade or two away from really blossoming, but when a friend generously served one, I was very, very happy to check in on the wine and see how it is progressing! The bouquet has started to stir nicely and now offers up a pure and complex blend of cherries, licorice, road tar, a gorgeous base of Asili’s inimitable terroir, red curry, a touch of fennel seed and a gentle topnote of fresh oregano. On the palate the wine is very deep, full-bodied and tangy, with unmistakable profundity in its future. The core here is bottomless, the tannins are ripe and seamlessly integrated, and the focus and grip on the very, very long, perfectly balanced finish are haunting. This has been a legend in the making since it was released, and though it is still at least a dozen years away from really starting to drink with a bit of generosity, its inherent beauty is already very easy to read. Just be patient, as it will probably be a perfect wine when it is truly ready to drink! (Drink between 2030-2100).John Gilman | 98 JGThe utterly perfect, dense ruby/purple-colored 1996 Barbaresco Asili (Red Label Riserva) is a heroic offering brilliantly displaying both power and elegance. The bouquet develops incrementally, offering up aromas of black raspberries, cherries, cigar box, licorice, and leather. The wine impresses with its nuances as well as its extraordinarily rich, dense mid-palate, and a finish that lasts nearly a minute. There is huge tannin, but equally massive concentration, extract, and overall harmony. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2025.Robert Parker | 98 RPGiacosa’s 1996 Barbaresco Riserva Asili is a total stunner. Fresh, perfumed and inviting, the 1996 is a real treat to taste and drink at this adolescent stage in its life. The tannins have now softened, releasing an extraordinary amount of Nebbiolo fireworks that captivate all the senses. The 1996 Asili is still as memorable as it was the first time I tasted it. My only regret is not owning more than a handful of bottles. What a wine!.Antonio Galloni | 97 AGLots of raspberry, mushroom and black cherry, with a hint of vanilla. Full-bodied, with fine tannins and a long, fruity finish. Still a little reserved, but shows lovely fruit. A gorgeous wine. Goes on and on.--1996 Piedmont retrospective. Best after 2008. 1,190 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

The 1996 Barolo Falletto de Serralunga (Red Label Riserva) possesses extraordinary presence and stature. Dark garnet/ruby-colored, it offers a tight but promising nose of road tar, scorched earth, truffles, blackberries, cherries, and espresso. This muscular, massive wine gave me chills. It is an exquisite, virtually perfect Barolo that requires a decade of cellaring, and should last for 30-40 years. I remember wishing I were twenty years younger when I tasted it prior to bottling ... I still feel the same way. Awesome! Anticipated maturity: 2010-2040.Robert Parker | 98 RPAs much as I don't believe in the idea of competition in wine, there is simply no doubt that Bruno Giacosa's 1996 Barolo Riserva Falletto is both one of the greatest wines he ever made and also the single most emotionally moving wine from Piedmont's 1996 vintage. Once again, the 1996 Barolo Riserva Falletto more than lives up to its lofty reputation. The wine needs time in the decanter for some initial VA funk to blow off, but when it does, what emerges is a Barolo of utterly captivating beauty. Bruno Giacosa’s finest wines are defined by haunting inner sweetness and extraordinary perfume. The 1996 has all that, and so much more, starting with a full vibrant red color and tons of intensity. Time has mellowed the tannins to some degree, but my sense is that the 1996 will always remain somewhat brutish in feel. Even so, there is no denying its allure. Readers lucky enough to own the 1996 should be ecstatic. It is one of the world’s truly great, great wines.Vinous Media | 98 VMTerrific aromas of crushed fruit, Indian spices and dried flowers follow though to a full-bodied palate, with silky tannins and a long, long finish. Just a baby, but very balanced and pretty.--1996 Piedmont retrospective. Best after 2009. 200 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

A virtually perfect effort is the 1997 Sperss (30,000 bottles), which represents the essence of truffles, earth, and black cherries in its striking aromatics and multidimensional, opulent, full-bodied palate. The acidity seems low because of the huge glycerin levels and prodigious concentration of fruit, but I suspect it is normal in the scheme of oenological measurement. This profound wine requires 3-4 years of cellaring, and should age well for 30-35 years.A genius for sure, Angelo Gaja can not be faulted for what he puts in the bottle. This work of art is worth every cent it will fetch.Robert Parker | 99 RPAdmittedly, Gaja’s 1997 Sperss doesn’t quite hit the high notes it so often does. More often than not, the 1997 has been pretty much open for business, but this bottle is more reticent than other recent examples.Vinous Media | 97 VMDark ruby. Loads of blackberry, vanilla and milk chocolate on the nose. Turns to licorice and flowers. Full-bodied, with a subtle tannin structure and fresh and focused fruit. Balanced and pretty wine. Just starting to open.--1997 Italian blind retrospective. Best from 2008 through 2017. 2,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

The 1997 Le Vigne is edged by the 1997 Barolo Cannubi Boschis that follows. Ample and incredibly inviting, the 1997 Cannubi Boschis is a wine of total sensuality. An exotic mélange of dark cherry, plum, leather and spice melds into the super-expressive finish. All of a sudden the conversation stops at the dinner table. That is what great wines can do.Vinous Media | 98 VMThe prodigious 1997 Barolo Cannubi Boschis possesses a dark saturated garnet color. The sweet nose of black fruits, minerals, scorched earth, smoke, dried herbs, and wet stones is stunning. Amazingly concentrated, with tremendous unctuousity yet superb delineation, this large-scaled as well as elegant Barolo possesses fabulous extract as well as a multidimensional mid-palate and finish. It is an amazing effort! Anticipated maturity: 2003-2020.Robert Parker | 96 RPMedium ruby red color. Very opulent aromas of plum, roses and spice. Full-bodied, with exotic fruit flavors and layers of silky tannins. Amazing fruit. Breathtaking. Hard not to drink now. Even better than I remember.--1997 Italian blind retrospective. Best after 2010. 1,080 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WS

Conterno’s 2002 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is a legend in the making, or now that it is in bottle, it may be more correct to simply say it is a legend. The late Giovanni Conterno and his son Roberto Conterno created quite a stir when they announced that they would make their Monfortino in 2002, a year in which most of the harvest in Piedmont was severely compromised by a cold summer and devastating hail in early September. But there was more. The Conternos not only announced that they would make their Monfortino in 2002 but no Barolo Cascina Francia for the first time ever in the estate’s history. In a bit of defiance towards the press, the Conternos then announced no one would be allowed to taste the wine from barrel. Over the years, this stance softened. Visitors lucky enough to visit the cellars and sample the wine from cask knew what was in store. Simply put, the 2002 Monfortino is stratospheric. A dark, imposing, but sensual wine, it flows from the glass with a breathtaking array of dried roses, autumn leaves, wild cherries, plums, new leather, espresso, licorice and spices, showing phenomenal depth, richness and balance. The tension between the luxuriousness of the fruit and the austerity of the vintage is truly captivating. I have tasted the 2002 Monfortino multiple times from barrel and bottle. At times it has reminded me of what I imagine the 1971 tasted like upon release, at other times it has seemed more similar to 1978. According to Giovanni Conterno, the 2002 reminded him of the 1971. Either way, the wine is extraordinary. The 2002 Monfortino is the result of the cold vintage that was typical of Piedmont up until the mid 1980s. In many ways, it is a throwback to wines that can’t be made anymore in Piedmont. Roberto Conterno thought so highly of the 2002 Monfortino he gave the wine an extra year in barrrel. And of course, there is one sad footnote. The world lost Giovanni Conterno to cancer in 2004, but he made sure his last Monfortino was at least equal, if not better, than his most monumental wines. There is little doubt the 2002 Monfortino will soon take its place as one of the greatest Monfortinos ever made. It is the most fitting last chapter to the life of one of the world’s greatest winemakers. As always, I suggest readers who have an interest in Monfortino taste the wine as soon as possible, as it will soon head into a period of dormancy, which in this vintage may last several decades. One of my favorite vintages for current drinking is the 1970, which still looks to have another 30 years of fine drinking ahead of it! Anticipated maturity: 2027-2052.Few properties are so closely linked with a single site as Giacomo Conterno. Since 1978 the Cascina Francia vineyard in Serralunga, a monopole holding, has been the source of all of the estate’s wines, including the Baroli Cascina Francia and Monfortino, rightly considered by most observers as among the most profound wines in the world. Needless to say, it was big news when proprietor Roberto Conterno purchased three hectares in Ceretta, also in Serralunga, in 2008. Would the new wines reflect the same house aesthetic as the wines from Cascina Francia, or would the terroir of Ceretta be the dominant factor? Could Ceretta yield wines of similar importance as those of Cascina Francia? After all, Cascina Francia was a cornfield with a few old vines from a past life when the Conternos purchased it in 1974. These were some of the questions Barolo lovers asked, and now, two years later some answers have begun to emerge. The first, and most obvious, is that the new wines are loaded with the Conterno house style. That said, they are works in progress. Roberto Conterno took over his parcels in Cerretta in mid-2008, after which he had the misfortune of suffering through several hailstorms. When I visited the new vineyards in the summer of 2008 Conterno told me he thought it would take two to three years for the vines to respond to his methods of viticulture. Clearly 2008 is not the optimal vintage by which to measure the ultimate potential of these wines, but there appears to be much to look forward to based on the 2009s I tasted from barrel recently. All of that said, the star among these new releases is without question the 2002 Monfortino, a wine that is destined to carve a place for itself as one of the greatest wines ever made. That it is the product of a vintage that was disastrous for nearly every other producer in Piedmont will only add to the shroud of mystique that has surrounded this wine since its birth.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPThe 2002 Monfortino is one of the most iconic Conterno wines in recent memory for the reasons described above. Interestingly, the additional year in cask has made the 2002 much more approachable in its youth than most other vintages, so opening a bottle at this stage is not as crazy as it might seem on paper. The 2002 impresses for its depth, concentration and complexity. Tonight, it is superb. Tasted from magnum.Antonio Galloni | 98 AGThis is incredibly fresh, vibrant and expressive, exhibiting complex aromas of red fruits, tar and licorice, with strawberry, sweet tobacco and mineral flavors. Intense and elegant at once, with finesse and structure, ending with a saline and mineral aftertaste. Try it in five years. Best from 2014 through 2040. 1,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 98 WSWhat a wine. In a year where the rainfall was more than two times the norm Giacomo really impresses. This wine is an ever evolving (even in the glass!) experience. On the nose it has fresh mint and licorice then a wave of roses, berries, and cherries. On the palate there is more of the same, tons of berries, licorice and roses. Incredibly full and ultra-velvety. This is a dense wine that does not lack depth and focus. Breathtaking balance and a incredible finish that is measured in minutes not seconds. Harmonious.James Suckling | 97 JS

As hard as it is to believe, the 2004 Barolo Sarmassa is even better than the Cerequio. It opens with compelling, seductive aromatics that lead to an array of perfumed plums, prunes and sweet red cherries in liqueur. Blessed with superb detail and delineation, this profound Barolo offers exceptional clarity, precision and endless layers of flavor, all framed by silky, perfectly ripe tannins that provide balance. This wine has always been stunning from barrel and cask, and it is equally breathtaking in bottle. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPA striking wine, the 2004 Barolo Sarmassa, one of two Barolos Voerzio bottles only in magnums, provides a fascinating contrast to the much more virile, imposing Vecchie Viti dei Capalot e delle Brunate. Here the textures are silky, while the flavor profile is distinctly more floral. The Sarmassa is also typically a bit brighter, but the 2004 plays on darker tonalities of red fruit, with exotic spiced overtones and a bit more power than is the norm.Vinous Media | 97 VMWonderful aromas of strawberry, orange peel and fresh flowers. Full-bodied, with a solid, dense core of fruit, but comes across balanced and refined. Supersilky and seductive. Very, very long and balanced. Best after 2012. 145 cases made, 15 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

The 2008 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is one of my favorite recent vintages. It is the product of an exceptionally long and cool growing year marked by a highly unusual cold snap at the very end of the season. Those conditions yielded a Monfortino that is pure silkiness and sensuality, with striking aromatic presence and exceptional balance. There is an exoticism to the 2008 that is impossible to miss, while the impression is of tannins that are virtually non-existent. The 2008 was such a complete wine right from the outset that Roberto Conterno decided to bottle it with six years in cask as opposed to the more typical seven.Vinous Media | 99 VMThis is one of the most balanced and harmonious Monfortinos that I ever tasted. Aromas of dried rose petals and oranges. It’s full-bodied yet compacted and tight. Tannins are perfectly managed. It makes you want to drink it now with its balance and finesse. All in harmony. This is from one of the latest harvests ever - started October 29. So fabulous and so perfect now. Why wait? But will age for decades.James Suckling | 99 JSMenthol, earth, underbrush and tobacco flavors lead off in this monolithic red, with submerged sweet fruit. An intense array of mineral details emerge, persisting through the long aftertaste. Fresh and balanced, with a long life ahead. One of the wines of the vintage. Best from 2018 through 2035. 650 cases made.Wine Spectator | 97 WSThe 2008 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is pure excitement. The bouquet alone is alluring, but then the wine begins to open up on the palate, revealing extraordinary depth. An explosion of fruit follows as dark berries, mint, roses, incense and tar flesh out in all directions. Huge, powerful tannins frame an extraordinary finish. This is going to be a thrilling Monfortino to follow over the coming years and decades. Anticipated maturity: 2028-2048.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96-98 RP

Elegant and complex, this gorgeous wine is all about finesse, offering enticing aromas of rose petal, iris, perfumed berry, baking spice, anise and chopped aromatic herb. The structured but silky palate seamlessly melds together juicy Morello cherry, crushed raspberry, cinnamon, clove, licorice and tobacco while bright acidity and ultra-fine tannins provide the framework. It’s already tempting and impeccably balanced but will be even better in a few years. Drink 2018¬–2030. Kerin O’Keefe | 99 KOElegant and complex, this gorgeous wine is all about finesse, offering enticing aromas of rose petal, iris, perfumed berry, baking spices, anise and chopped aromatic herbs. The structured but silky palate seamlessly melds together juicy Morello cherry, crushed raspberry, cinnamon, clove, licorice and tobacco while bright acidity and ultrafine tannins provide the framework. It’s already tempting and impeccably balanced but will be even better in a few years. Drink 2018–2030.Wine Enthusiast | 99 WEMauro Mascarello does not disappoint with his stunning 2010 Barolo Monprivato. This is an impeccable expression from Castiglione Falletto that imparts an immense sense of purity and elegance. The bouquet opens slowly to reveal pressed flower, cola, dried ginger, forest fruit and balsam herb. This is a magnificent expression of Nebbiolo that changes and shifts each time you come back to contemplate its aromas. That magical fluidity is also present in the mouth. The wine presents silky tannins and crisp fruit flavors. Given the sheer quality on display now, you can count on Barolo Monprivato to continue a slow and successful evolution in your cellar. This is a true beauty.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPStarts out elegant and perfumed, sporting cherry and berry flavors, picking up earth, licorice, leather and spice notes. This is all about the silky texture and civilized tannins that should come together in the next few years. Spice and earth accents line the finish. Best from 2017 through 2033. 1,870 cases made. Wine Spectator | 96 WS

Still embryonic, Mascarello’s 2010 Barolo (magnum) shows all the classicism it did when I first tasted it from cask many years ago. There is a feeling of crystalline purity and translucence here that is simply captivating. This is Nebbiolo and Barolo in all its glory in what has turned out to be an epic vintage for the estate. Time in the glass brings out scents of lavender, dried flowers and dark fruit, all wrapped together by huge swaths of tannin. Readers lucky enough to own the 2010 are in for a tremendous treat.Vinous Media | 99 VMFrom one of the denomination’s leading traditional producers, this gorgeous, elegant Barolo opens with floral aromas of dried rose petals, woodland berries, leather, spice and whiffs of balsamic herbs. The delicious palate seamlessly combines crunchy red cherry-berry, white pepper and mint balanced by firm but polished tannins and bright acidity. This is a hallmark Barolo full of finesse that will age majestically. Drink after 2020. Kerin O’Keefe | 99 KOFrom one of the denomination’s leading traditional producers, this gorgeous, elegant Barolo opens with floral aromas of dried rose petals, woodland berries, leather, spice and whiffs of balsamic herbs. The palate seamlessly combines crisp, red cherry-berry fruit, white pepper and mint balanced by firm but polished tannins and bright acidity. Full of finesse, it will age majestically. Drink after 2020. Wine Enthusiast | 99 WEA floral-, cherry- and berry-laced version, delicate and lively, with mineral and spice accents. The texture is supple, with a glycerol feel. Borders on racy, with woodsy and mineral notes emerging on the pleasantly long finish. Best from 2017 through 2035. 1,250 cases made.Wine Spectator | 97 WSThe 2010 Barolo is a singularly elegant expression that benefits from extremely long maceration time (up to 54 days) and a non-interventionists’ winemaking philosophy. The wine is superb in its elegance and finesse that caresses the palate in the most delicate and ethereal manner imaginable. Small fruit tones are enhanced by ash, crushed mineral, licorice and dried mint. Because of changes in how Barolo can be labeled, the wine no longer carries the names of the four single-vineyards that make up the traditional blend for this wine (Canubbi, San Lorenzo, Rue and Rocche di La Morra). Instead, this historic wine is now labeled straightforward “Barolo.” Drink: 2017-2038.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPPure floral red berries and refined tannins; an essence of Barolo.Decanter | 95 DEC

Bruno Giacosa, who passed away last January, was known for the extraordinary elegance of his Barolos and Barbarescos. This last ’red label’ riserva is probably the most consistent 2012 in Barolo, and the Falletto cru is one of the highest sites in Serralunga, preserving grace in a dry vintage such as this. The nearby Francia cru, by contrast, suffered more. Indeed, beneath fine pomegranate fruit and black olive depth, there are finely textured tannins of an extreme precision, and it shows an overall magnificent balance in an almost Burgundian style of Nebbiolo.Decanter | 98 DECA rich and decadent Barolo with dark berry, meat and hints of chocolate and spice. Full body, layered and dense with some leather and walnut underlying the ripe fruit. Drink in 2020 but already beautiful.James Suckling | 98 JSPiercing scents of truffle, rose water, macerated cherry and medicinal herbs are the hallmarks of this elegant red. Less evolved and harmonious on the palate, with a core of sweet fruit and tightly wound, dense tannins. Stays fresh and long on the extended finish. Best from 2022 through 2043. 50 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WSThe 2012 Barolo Riserva Falletto Vigna Le Rocche (red label) was bottled last September and has already eased into a comfortable and promising stage in its very early evolution. Bruna Giacosa tells me that this wine will be made in 2014 and 2016, so future supplies are plentiful. The jury is out on whether the wine will be produced in 2015, but Bruna tells me it is unlikely (albeit by no means confirmed at this point). Fruit selection was extreme in 2012. This is a warm vintage expression, and the wine is beautifully rich and velvety as a result. That textural richness is what stands out most. The primary fruit is bold and very well defined. There is a point of dark cherry ripeness, but it adds to the generous fiber and softness of the mouthfeel. Of the many beautiful vintages I have tasted of this wine, I suspect the 2012 might be faster in its evolution.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RP

Sandrone’s 2013 Barolo Le Vigne is a real stunner. Powerful, ample and deep, the 2013 exudes class from start to finish. The addition of Serralunga fruit in the blend has added depth and structure in all of the wine’s dimensions. Dark red cherry, plum, mint, rose petal, tar and licorice build into the huge, voluptuous finish. Readers who can find the 2013 should not hesitate, as it is outrageously beautiful and also one of the clear wines of the vintage. Vineyard sites are Baudana, Villero, Vignane and Merli.Antonio Galloni | 98 AGThe 2013 Barolo Le Vigne is a sensational, incredibly gorgeous wine. Coming from multiple sites and aged 18 months in 500-liter French oak barrels, it offers a perfumed, intense bouquet of kirsch liqueur, blackberries, graphite, dried flowers, and hints of minerality. Deep, medium to full-bodied, incredibly fine and polished, it’s one of those Nebbioli that packs tremendous power and intensity yet just glides across the palate. It’s the essence of elegance and purity in Nebbiolo.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDAlluring scents of blue flower, rose petal, woodland berry, baking spice and new leather take center stage along with a balsamic note of menthol. The delicious enveloping palate doles out juicy morello cherry, crushed raspberry, cinnamon and licorice framed in refined tannins and bright acidity. It’s polished and already tempting but hold for even more complexity. Drink 2020–2038.Wine Enthusiast | 97 WEThe aromas to this young Barolo are vivid and bright with blueberry and stone character. Full body, chewy and polished tannins and a flavorful finish. Powerful and balanced. One of my favorites. Drink in 2021.James Suckling | 96 JSThe 2013 Barolo le Vigne is another stellar achievement from Luciano Sandrone and his family. Since 2010, the blend for this wine has been tweaked just a bit to include more fruit from the Baudana cru in Serralunga d’Alba. This wine shows a ripe and succulent mouthfeel with ample richness and power that drives the wine smoothly over the palate. These darker qualities can be attributed to the Baudana fruit that is known for power and heft. Fruit from the Villero cru in Castiglione Falletto offers delicate perfumes and ethereal elegance. This vineyard site is home to loose, sandy soils. The combination of these two extremes is simply delightful.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPA taut, racy style, this boasts cherry, strawberry, licorice and leather flavors, with hints of mineral, iron, spice and underbrush. Remains vibrant on the finish, which stretches out. The fruit comes back at the end. Best from 2022 through 2042. 250 cases imported. Wine Spectator | 95 WSA blend of fruit from crus in Serralunga d’Alba, Castiglione Falletto, Barolo and Novello, the 2013 Le Vigne feels balanced and complete. The red fruit flavors are vibrant and fresh, shining through the wine’s luxurious texture. Notes of vanilla and sweet spice lend richness, even as the wine’s cool, mineral tannins keep the flavors taut and precise.Wine & Spirits | 95 W&SAn admirable vintage for this classic blend. Dense cherry fruit on the nose, and a broad, fleshy palate which is full-bodied but compact, with vigour, balance, and persistence. Drinking Window 2019 - 2035.Decanter | 91 DEC

The 2013 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is another huge, tannic wine. Crystalline and so precise, the 2013 is deceptive, as the aromatics are quite inviting, until masses of tannin hit the palate. Tar, rose petal, spice and cedar open with a bit of time in the glass, showing just enough to make the wine pleasurable today. Even so, the best is clearly yet to come. Patience will be rewarded.Vinous Media | 99 VMSubtle aromas of cherry, wild herb and tobacco introduce this sleek, complex version, while cherry, strawberry, loam, iron and tobacco flavors build in intensity to the extended finish. But what truly defines this superb and silky Barolo is the texture and harmony, with a fine weave to the dense tannins. All the components come together on the lingering aftertaste. Best from 2022 through 2050. 1,666 cases made.Wine Spectator | 99 WSWarm aromas of plums, rose petals and spices with hints of sandalwood. Some tar. Full body, dense center palate with glorious fruit and a fantastic finish. Very, very polished and fine tannins. Vertical and deep. A great Monfortino. Try in 2023.James Suckling | 99 JSI have been tasting this wine from barrel for the past two years and now finally, abracadabra, the 2013 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is safely housed in bottle. The wine was bottled in June of last year and will hit the market this upcoming October. The Barolo Francia was not produced in 2013 because Roberto Conterno diverted all fruit from that vineyard to this wine. Monfortino was not produced in 2011 or 2012, meaning that this 2013 edition follows directly after the absolutely stunning 2010 vintage (which earned a perfect 100-point score). The two vintages (2010 and 2013) are very similar, strikingly so, but the 2013 vintage registers at a slightly lower structural threshold. The tannins are slightly looser, or softer in the case of this wine. With up to six years in botte, the 2010 vintage is still crunchy and super sharp, while this wine is slightly more succulent and earthy. Some 20,000 bottles, 2,500 magnums and 400 three-liter bottles were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPAfter the celebrated 2010, Monfortino is not disappointing in the cool and classic 2013 vintage as it suffers more in the warm vintages than the fresher ones. This Riserva is rich with fresh and savoury aromas of red cassis, cherry and blood orange, full of cinnamon spice and balsamic notes with a minty finish that’s intoxicating in its depth. On the palate it’s velvety with pleasant and ripe tannins and full and consistent structure. Overall, it’s perfectly balanced and will age for decades but is delicious for drinking now.Decanter | 97 DEC

Classic Nebbiolo aromas of new leather, menthol, pressed rose, perfumed wild berry and chopped aromatic herb continuously lift out of the glass. The luminous, delicious palate delivers layers of succulent Marasca cherry, crushed raspberry, cinnamon and star anise set against a backbone of youthfully assertive but ultra-fine tannins. Bright acidity gives it wonderful balance while a note of pipe tobacco graces the lingering finish. Drink 2028–2048. Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOClassic Nebbiolo aromas of new leather, menthol, pressed rose, perfumed wild berry and chopped aromatic herb continuously lift out of the glass. The luminous, delicious palate delivers layers of succulent Marasca cherry, crushed raspberry, cinnamon and star anise set against a backbone of youthfully assertive but fine tannins. Bright acidity gives it wonderful balance while a note of pipe tobacco graces the lingering finish. Drink 2028–2048Wine Enthusiast | 98 WERinaldi’s 2013 Barolo Brunate is dark, sensual and super-inviting. A wine of restraint, the 2013 is endowed with terrific depth and tons of personality. At the same time, the 2013 is not an explosive wine (like the 2010), but rather a Barolo that speaks to total finesse. Dark cherry, plum, lavender, menthol, violet and hard candy inflections give the 2013 much of its exceptional beauty and resonance. The wine’s sheer inner sweetness makes it nearly impossible to put down the glass.Vinous Media | 97+ VMThe 2013 Barolo Brunate is very much driven by the excellence of the vintage. There is a profound level of power and intensity here that pushes the limits of the quality spectrum of this versatile and somewhat elastic vineyard. Brunate gives good results in the so-so vintages. In the great vintages (like 2013), this is the happy result. The wine opens to a darker sense of earthiness and rich fruit. Indeed, the tannic structure of the wine is almost crunchy or crystalline now in its youth. The wine is nervous and tightly bound at the moment. This Barolo requires plenty of patience.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPMenthol and wild herb aromas and flavors combine with a core of steeped cherry, tar and tobacco in this elegant red. Refined tannins lend support. The finish lingers with a mineral element. Best from 2020 through 2036. 900 cases made, 160 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSA Barolo traditionalist classic, still fragrant and shy on the raspberry-scented nose. Juicy and concentrated, the very ripe fruit is balanced by forthright tannins. Admirable energy and balance here, and good length.Decanter | 92 DEC

The 2015 Barolo Francia is a soaring, regal wine endowed with tremendous intensity in all of its dimensions. The most reticent and inward of the 2015s, the Francia possesses superb textural density and persistence all the way through to the explosive finish. An immense, towering Barolo, the Francia is positively stellar. It is also going to require a number of years to be at its best. In recent years, the Conterno Barolo Francia has often been relatively accessible post bottling, the 2015 is far from that.Vinous Media | 98 VMNext comes 50-hectoliter botte number 88 that houses the upcoming 2015 Barolo Francia. Again, this wine will be bottled by the time you read this, with Conterno's newest vintages hitting the market in October. What impresses most here is the supreme elegance of the wine. It speaks in hushed whispers, enunciating promises of depth, complexity and mysterious intrigue. The wine unfolds slowly, revealing new elements with each swirl of the glass. Together, these aromas build in intensity and stature to become a magnificent Barolo with a capital B. The bouquet exudes elegance and complexity that will carry it through the ages. When I tasted this wine from barrel last year, I described it as demure. One year later, the wine is bursting with confidence, character and moxie.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPA rich, plum- and cherry-laced red, aligned with a sumptuous texture, lively acidity and refined tannins. Though dense, this remains light-footed and beautifully integrated. Bass notes of tar, soy, iron and tobacco add depth and complexity as this winds down on the finish. Best from 2023 through 2050. 1,166 cases made.Wine Spectator | 97 WS

Incredible, reserved ripeness and depth already evident on the nose after one whiff, offering plum, cedar, rose hip, sandalwood, and licorice. Full-bodied with superb depth of fruit and an abundance of polished tannins that give the wine poise and grace, even though it’s long and powerful. The quality of the tannins are exceptional. Sheer and refined. This comes from the center of Cannubi. Aged five years in Stockinger cask. Better after 2026.James Suckling | 99 JSThis is mellowing, with red fruit flavors of cherry and strawberry shaded by eucalyptus, tobacco and green tea. Almost feels ready to enjoy at the outset, then the dense tannins kick in on the finish. Everything comes together nicely in the end. Best from 2024 through 2040. 200 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

The 2015 Barolo Monvigliero is a wine of pure and total seduction. The warm vintage has filled out the wine’s frame beautifully. The interplay of ripe, succulent 2015 fruit and aromatic intensity from the whole clusters yields a positively stunning, breathtaking wine of the very highest level. Once again, Burlotto’s Barolo Monvigliero takes a place among the most compelling wines of the vintage. Readers who can find it should not hesitate!Vinous Media | 98 VMFabio Alessandria impressed with his Monvigliero 2014. In the cool, rainy vintage he was able to produce a Barolo with a Pinot-like elegance. He was one of the first producers to introduce a small amount of stalks to the Nebbiolo during winemaking. In the warm vintage of 2015 his Monvigliero is extremely pale and garnet-coloured yet full of fresh flowery notes such as peony, violet and rose, with rhubarb plant, wild strawberry and cinnamon candy aromas and flavours. Super elegant, it shows firm, velvety tannins with an austere finish yet a great integration of fruit. Rarely is it possible to taste such a balance of elegance and power.Decanter | 98 DECI mentioned that slightly wild side of Verduno in a previous review for Comm. G.B. Burlotto. For further clarity on this point, put your nose into the beautiful 2015 Barolo Monvigliero. This is a subdued and graceful wine that grows in intensity the longer it stays in the glass. The wine offers blue flower aromas with violets, wild rose, cumin seed, saffron and crushed mineral. This wine plays its best cards when you focus on the smallest details, and then suddenly, those tiny brush strokes explode into a big-picture, panoramic view of one of the most celebrated vineyard sites in Barolo.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPCompelling and fragrant, this gorgeous wine opens with intense aromas of pressed rose, fragrant blue flower, incense, pine and a whiff of smoky flint. The precise, structured palate is loaded with finesse, delivering ripe Marasca cherry, strawberry compote, licorice and white pepper alongside tangy mineral and an earthy hint of black olive. It’s beautifully balanced, with enveloping, refined tannins and fresh acidity. Drink 2023–2040. Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KOCompelling and fragrant, this gorgeous wine opens with intense aromas of pressed rose, fragrant blue flower, incense, pine and a whiff of smoky flint. The precise, structured palate is loaded with finesse, delivering ripe Marasca cherry, strawberry compote, licorice and white pepper alongside tangy mineral and an earthy hint of black olive. It’s beautifully balanced, with enveloping, refined tannins and fresh acidity. Drink 2023–2040.Wine Enthusiast | 97 WEAromatic, offering juniper, green olive, sandalwood and cherry scents. The fruit components expand in the mouth, but this red is savory overall. Firm, supple and elegant, with a lingering aftertaste of mineral and spice. Best from 2022 through 2040. 583 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThe swirling, aromatic nose is entrancing here. The flowery charm is undeniable and the palate has an ethereal frame of fine tannins, carrying beautifully defined, ripe red-cherry flavor. The use of whole clusters works very well here, adding life and lift to this riper vintage. This is a beautiful 2015. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 94 JS

The 2015 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is magical. This is the first vintage that includes fruit from Arione, so the 2015 is 80% Francia and 20% Arione. That marks a return to Monfortino as a multi-vineyard wine, which it mostly was until 1978, when the first Monfortino from Francia was made. The combination of sites works so well. I remember tasting the 2015 as separate components and seeing what exactly the Arione piece adds, and that is aromatic explosiveness, texture and breadth. Rose petal, mint, sage, tobacco and cedar lend complexity. More than anything else, though, I am blown away by how utterly delicious the 2015 is. Of course, the 2015 will be better in time, but its pedigree is plainly evident today. Roberto Conterno gave the 2015 just five years in cask, the shortest time in wood for any Monfortino in recent memory, maybe ever. Like most producers around the world, Conterno is thinking deeply about what the optimal period of time in oak is. As for the 2015, it is a flat-out stunner in every way.Vinous Media | 99 VMMonfortino was not produced in 2016 nor was it made in 2017. The jury is out on whether will see it in 2018 (but I do know that Roberto Conterno is super excited about the 2019 vintage in Barolo, speaking generally). That means that we might not see his flagship wine for a number of years. The 2015 Barolo Riserva Monfortino gives us plenty to contemplate in the meantime. First, in terms of winemaking notes, this vintage see 22% Arione fruit in the blend, with the rest from Francia. Roberto Conterno is fond of telling me that "Francia is a Barolo you drink, and Monfortino is a wine you chew." (The exact word in Italian is "masticare.") I think his comment rings especially true in this vintage that arguably shows greater concentration and fruit weight and softer or more integrated tannins overall. There is structure but minus any hard edges or bite.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98+ RP

Giuseppe Rinaldi’s recent vintages have the potential to become cult wines. The 2015 is extremely pale and lively, focused on fresh citrusy notes of orange peel and cedar wood with a rhubarb candy core accompanied by star anise, vermouth, tar and liquorice. It’s full and austere on the palate yet with refined velvety tannins: a Barolo of great personality and elegance for demanding drinkers.Decanter | 98 DECA compelling red that offers purity and grace, with rose, cherry and raspberry aromas augmented by iron, tobacco and earth flavors, all marshaled by vivid acidity and underscored by dense yet refined tannins. Long and shows wonderful harmony, even at this youthful stage. Best from 2023 through 2045. 600 cases made, 110 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WSThe 2015 Barolo Brunate benefits from a thicker soil profile in this vineyard that consequently bumps the wine’s aromatic intensity and staying power up a notch or two. This wine is almost crunchy in texture, with a subtle snap or crackle as it hits the palate. It shows enormous beauty and richness with a dark fruit profile followed by elements of spice, tar, tobacco and moist potting soil. There are floral notes as well with rose and lavender. This wine will reward those with the patience to wait.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPEucalyptus, underbrush and red berry aromas shape the nose on this structured, elegant red. The taut palate is full of tension and energy, delivering crushed raspberry, juicy Marasca cherry, licorice and a hint of truffle alongside refined, enveloping tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it well balanced. Drink 2023–2030. Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOEucalyptus, underbrush and red berry aromas shape the nose on this structured, elegant red. The taut palate is full of tension and energy, delivering crushed raspberry, juicy Marasca cherry, licorice and a hint of truffle alongside refined, enveloping tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it well balanced. Drink 2023–2030.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WERinaldi’s Barolo Brunate is refined and light on its feet in 2015, with a bit less structure and overall depth than is the norm. That is not at all surprising, as the 2015 Brunate has always been a relatively light wine by Rinaldi standards. Dark red cherry, plum, licorice, sage and balsamic notes shape this expressive yet understated Barolo from Rinaldi.Vinous Media | 93 VM

Roses and lavender with other flowers. Peaches. Glorious fruit of dark plums and ripe strawberries. This is dense and intense but there are layers of very fine tannins, like fine cashmere. Goes on for minutes. Opens in the mouth. Almost endless. Three years in cask and two years in bottle before January 2023 release. Give this at least five to six years.James Suckling | 98 JSThis year’s top-end release from Bruno Giacosa is the 2017 Barolo Riserva Falletto Vigna Le Rocche (in the red label). Bottled in 2019, the wine stands apart thanks to a hot and dry growing season that Bruna Giacosa is very excited about. In fact, she prefers 2017 to 2015, although the two vintages do share similarities. This wine is very open-knit, and it reveals dark concentration in the form of ripe blackberry, candied cherry and spice. The tannins show a loose, granular quality that adds considerably to the textural impact of this Riserva.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThis supple red is elegant and powerful, driven by an underlying mineral element. Strawberry, cherry, rose, iron and wild thyme aromas and flavors persist, building to a long aftertaste, while dense, refined tannins lend support. Offers superb balance and length. Best from 2025 through 2045. 110 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WS

Predominantly from within the cru of Cerequio on the border between Barolo and La Morra, Conteisa has been produced since 1996. The 2017 Barolo Conteisa has ripe aromas of red cherry, cinnamon, and licorice. The palate is forward and gushing with raspberry leather, iron-rich earth, and tobacco leaf. This is the most generous and giving of the three wines in this tasting, yet at the same time remains noble. Drink 2022-2042.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDFabulous aromas of ripe strawberry and raspberry with hazelnut and citrus follow through to a medium to full body with ultra-fine tannins and a racy and refined finish. It’s so fresh for the vintage and goes on for minutes. A classy and great wine. Better after 2025.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2017 Barolo Conteisa is rich, ample and inviting. Sweet pipe tobacco, cedar and dried flowers lend captivating aromatic presence to the Gaja family’s La Morra Barolo. Even so, the 2017 is quite closed today, which is rather unusual for a wine that is typically far more open in the early going. That’s probably a good sign for the future, though. Time in the glass brings out the classic Conteisa red-toned fruit profile. More than anything else, I am so impressed with how the 2017 gets better and better with air. This is a terrific showing. Sadly, production is down by about 50% because of severe selection.Antonio Galloni | 96 AGThe Gaja 2017 Barolo Conteisa opes to an immediate sense of dimension and textural width that distinguishes this hot growing season. In this case, that additional volume and power are expertly contained and refined in this wine with fruit from the Cerequio vineyard of Barolo. Cerequio saw hail damage in 2016 and was more fortunate this year; however, the site generally remains quite protected from extreme weather conditions (compared to its adjacent vineyards). This wine excels most noticeably in terms of mouthfeel. The finish is silky and long and those more astringent 2017 tannins are gracefully absent here.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95+ RPGaja manages two different plots in Cerequio, from where most of the grapes for Conteisa come. Both exposures - southeast and east - mark the character of this wine. If Sperss is the Yin, Conteisa would be the Yang: It’s dark fruited with black cherry and plum complemented by graceful wild herbs and mint, and a bloody, olive-like savouriness. Full-bodied and crisp, the tannins are firm, thick and dusty yet evolved. Drinking Window 2021 - 2040.Decanter | 95 DECExpressing balsamic aromas and flavors of soy, eucalyptus, wild thyme and tobacco, this Barolo also delivers ripe plum and cherry midpalate, with earth and tar accents rounding out the profile. Gruff tannins mark the finish, so be patient. Best from 2025 through 2045. 650 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WSAromas of French oak and roasted coffee bean lead the nose along with whiffs of pressed rose petal, eucalyptus and the barest hint of berry. The firm, full-bodied palate offers licorice, coconut, vanilla and dried cherry alongside assertive, close-grained tannins. You’ll also feel the warmth of alcohol on the close. Drink 2025–2032.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WE

This is really transparent with sweet strawberries, flowers and orange peel, as well as some conifer and pine-nut undertones. Full-bodied and layered with intense young tannins, intertwined with bright fruit. Great finish. This is really something else. Needs time to soften, of course. Try after 2025.James Suckling | 98 JSThe 2017 Barolo Ginestra Casa Mate has a slightly darker profile of licorice, black cherry, and wood spice. The palate is generous and structured, with plum pit, mineral-rich earth, and dried orange blossom. These are wines with incredible aromatic complexity and depth. Drink 2025-2050.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThe 2017 Barolo Ginestra Casa Matè is a dark, mysterious wine. Black cherry, menthol, tobacco, licorice, spice, new leather and pine meld together in a super-classic expression of Ginestra. Deep, rich and enveloping, the 2017 is so impressive in the early going. Here, too, the finesse of the tannins is remarkable.Vinous Media | 96 VMSoils in the Ginestra vineyard show more moisture-retaining clay in their composition, making them better positioned to handle hot and dry vintages such as this. The Elio Grasso 2017 Barolo Ginestra Casa Maté reveals soft concentration and extra richness; however, the aromatic nuances are well intact. I recall that the previous 2016 vintage took longer to come into focus, whereas this 2017 expression is open-knit and immediately accessible. The fruit is front and center, and the wine slides over the palate with a silky texture. Managing the tannins in 2017 was not easy, but this wine proves that lasting balance is not out of reach.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RP

The 2018 Bruno Giacosa Barolo is very rich and hedonistic, with ripe strawberries and rose hip and notes of incense, lilies and violets. It is a lovely nose, persistent, intense and enticing and on the palate it is like falling into a soft velvety bed of rose petals. It already has such beautiful harmony and poise. It has a lush, sensual texture of crushed velvet, and is full-bodied without feeling heavy. There are plenty of dense, savory tannins extending the very long finish, creating a combination of seductive charm and power. This is something special, a great achievement in this vintage. Wait 2-3 years at least but I would not want to miss that young fragrance.The Wine Independent | 98 TWIA fine and pretty Barolo with plenty of strawberry and mushroom character. White truffle, too. It’s medium-to full-bodied and creamy with medium, round tannins. Delicious now and will improve nicely.James Suckling | 94 JS

The 2018 Barolo Sperss is a gorgeous, gorgeous wine. The aromatics alone are beguiling. Then again, that’s one of the things that makes Barolo such a totally seductive wine. Sweet black cherry, lavender, spice and leather give this unusually translucent Barolo striking layers of dimension. Potent Serralunga tannins are present, but they are beautifully woven into the wine’s fabric. Sadly, production is around 11,000 bottles, down sharply from the 18,000 or so that is more typical.Antonio Galloni | 97 AGLots of rose-petal aromas here, together with some stems and sandalwood, as well plums and berries. Medium-bodied with a tight palate and very fine tannins that run the length of the wine. Linear and focused. Hints of nutmeg and pie crust highlight the palate. Approachable. now, but needs at last three or four years to open. Try after 2026.James Suckling | 95 JS