Pomerol Wines

wines

(Château Lafleur, Pomerol, Red) In a difficult vintage like 2013, reassuring hands are what you look for, those with an instinctive ability to tease out the best possible from the character of the year. Weather wise things were pretty much the opposite of 2003, making for another interesting pairing in this line-up - where that was earliest harvest on record this was almost the latest, with everything brought in during October (unlike 2003 where every grape came in during September). The result here is not about weight but lift, nuance and sculpted berry fruits. It has a more softly spoken key than the 2010 or 2002, quite clearly, but there is complexity here, teased out in layers of medium-bodied but pure cassis and blueberry fruits. It’s a clear testament to the possibilities of this estate. (Drink between 2021-2045)Decanter | 95 DECVery pretty aromas of rose petal, lavender, black cherry and hot stone. Full body, firm and silky tannins and a long and enduring finish. A beautiful red for the vintage. Very LafleurJames Suckling | 95 JSThe 2013 Lafleur was one of my favorite wines from barrel because, as Baptiste Guinaudeau remarked when I visited the property, he did not try to make a Pomerol beyond what it could be. The nose might not possess the complexity of the best vintages of Lafleur, but it is clearly delineated and fresh, with blackberry and raspberry fruit, a subtle granitic scent tucked underneath. The palate is medium-bodied with quite firm tannin, as is often the case for Lafleur, with crunchy red berry fruit and a stony, almost reserved but fresh finish that lingers nicely in the mouth. This is an excellent wine considering the growing season.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 93 RP-NMThe 2013 Lafleur, from the infamously maligned growing season, was picked entirely in October. It has a light and slightly monotone bouquet with mulberry and blackberry scents, a touch of briary and floral scents. The aromatics are nothing to be ashamed of. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red berry fruit, more Merlot than Cabernet Franc-driven, balanced if missing the complexity of most vintages from this esteemed Pomerol growth. Not bad, however it is not a long-term prospect and lacks the cerebral element that Lafleur often brings to the table. Tasted at the Christies’ Lafleur masterclass in London.Vinous Media | 90 VM

A ravishing red that pours out aromas of crushed raspberries, blueberries and dried flowers. Black truffle skins and undertones of violets. Full-bodied yet so tight and refined with incredible finesse and polish. The beauty and chic runs on for minutes on the finish. A truly endless and breathtakingly harmonious wine. It just rolls off the palate. Drink in 2022.James Suckling | 98 JSThis features a remarkable display of fruit, both fresh and steeped--primarily raspberry, but with notes of blackberry and boysenberry as well--all gliding through seamlessly while light anise, Lapsang souchong tea and roasted mesquite details underscore the finish. The texture is equally sublime. Best from 2020 through 2040. 348 cases made.Wine Spectator | 97 WSTypical Le Pin. Almost Burgundian, berry-fruit fragrance. Delicate sweetness on the palate. Elegant texture with finely woven tannins. Persistent, fresh finish. Elegant, balanced and digestible. Drinking Window 2020 - 2035.Decanter | 94 DECThe 2014 Le Pin has a really quite lovely bouquet. Tasted alongside its "cousin" Vieux-Château-Certan, it is more exotic and outgoing, yet it maintains fine delineation and complexity with upfront blueberry and black cherry fruit, quite a noticeable menthol note emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with a sweet and embracing entry, caressing in texture thanks to the succulent tannin, though these are counterpoised by the silver bead of acidity. There is just a touch of salted licorice that pops up on the finish. To quote Alexandre Thienpont (since Jacques and Fiona had to be in Belgium), this is a "classic" Le Pin, though I feel it will be overshadowed by the 2015.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 93 RP-NMThe 2014 Le Pin has a powerful and quite showy bouquet with ample red berry fruit, black truffle, singed leather and a light marine influence that comes through with time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine bead of acidity, fresh and lively with fleshy red cherry, crushed strawberry and white pepper notes on the satisfying finish. It is a fine Pomerol even if it does not quite match up to recent vintages from Jacques Thienpont. Tasted blind at the annual Southwold tasting.Vinous Media | 92 VM

I am spellbound by the aromas of crushed blackberries, licorice, black tea and violets. It’s full-bodied yet so intense and linear. Powerful tannins with superb polish and focus give an amazing texture. Complex and fascinating flavors of hazelnuts and dark fruit. The balance and strength is uncanny. Perfect wine. Very direct and superb. Try after 2025.James Suckling | 100 JSThe 2016 Le Pin is an extraordinarily beautiful vivid wine. Seamless, racy and voluptuous in the glass, the 2016 is a flat-out stunner. Nothing in particular stands out because all of the elements are in perfect balance. A wine of captivating, transcendental beauty, Le Pin has it all. Rose petal, red cherry, mint, blood orange and wild flowers all build in the glass, but it is the wine’s breathtaking finesse and elegance that stand out most. What a gorgeous, arrestingly beautiful wine this is.Antonio Galloni | 99 AGFrom Jacques Thienpont and a true superstar in the vintage, the 2016 Le Pin comes from a tiny vineyard of old vine Merlot and is raised all in new barrels. One of those magical wines that marries power with elegance perfectly, its saturated purple color is followed by a thrilling array of sweet kirsch, crème de cassis, graphite, toasty oak, and Asian spices. Hitting the palate with full-bodied richness and depth as well as an incredible mid-palate, it stays ethereal and elegant, with flawless tannins, awesome purity, and a blockbuster of a finish. The sexiest, kinkiest, most opulent wine in the vintage? I’d say yes. Do your best to hide bottles for 4-6 years, count yourself very lucky, and drink bottles over the following 3+ decades.Jeb Dunnuck | 99 JDThe medium to deep garnet-purple colored 2016 Le Pin is still very closed, revealing glimpses of preserved plums, blackberry pie and raspberry compote plus suggestions of potpourri, star anise, tobacco, fenugreek and stewed tea plus a waft of hoisin. The medium-bodied palate is opulent, rich and plush with layers of black and red fruit preserves and loads of exotic spice accents, finishing very long and very decadent.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98+ RPI tasted through a blend of five barrels, but they may not be the final ones. There is significant gravel in the Le Pin soils, so they suffered a little from the heat, but the Merlot still has incredible finesse and elegance. The astonishing thing is the grilled, smoked damson and ripe wild blackberry and hawthorn perfume that rises out of the glass effortlessly. This wine is deft, elegant, and rich. A naturally low yield of 28hl/ha due to the drought, with a pH of 3.72. Drinking Window 2027 - 2050Decanter | 98 DECThis provides a pure, almost distilled note of raspberry ganache from start to finish, fleshy in feel, with a light brambly accent adding subtle, pulsating energy throughout. Black tea detail, a hint of warm gravel and mouthwatering black licorice nuances fill in through the finish, which has a beguiling feel. Best from 2022 through 2038.Wine Spectator | 97 WS

The 2018 Le Pin is made of 100% Merlot, picked the last week of September with yields of 30 hectoliters per hectare. The wine has a pH of 3.7, an IPT (total polyphenol index) of 70 and 14.5% alcohol. Deep purple-black in color, it is a little reserved to begin, offering glimpses of tar, fertile loam and truffles with slowly emerging notes of baked black cherries, stewed plums, mulberries and underbrush plus hints of black pepper, hoisin and chargrill with a waft of garrigue. Full-bodied, the palate is loaded with taut, muscular fruit and heaps of earthy accents, with a firm frame of ripe, rounded tannins and just enough seamless freshness, finishing very long and wonderfully savory.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97-99 RPAbout as sexy as wine gets, the 2018 Le Pin comes from a tiny vineyard located just across from Vieux Château Certan and is always 100% Merlot brought up in new barrels. It reveals a deep purple color as well as a heavenly bouquet of crème de cassis, roasted coffee, vanilla, and toasted spice. Deep, full-bodied, seamless, and incredibly layered on the palate, with ultra-fine tannins, it’s already approachable, with the flamboyant style of the vintage, yet should evolve for decades. It’s a brilliant Pomerol in the making.Jeb Dunnuck | 97-99 JDThe density and texture to this Le Pin is very surprising. It’s tannic and intense with an angular and stony-mineral undertone. Full-bodied yet energetic and edgy. Great structure. Reminds me of the great 1986.James Suckling | 98-99 JSThis is extremely good, expansive and luxurious with a stunning texture – vibrant and powerful, and a floral side that becomes clear as it opens in the glass, lifting the whole thing not through acidity but through aromatics. The real difference with Le Pin and other 100% Merlot wines is the sumptuousness through the mid palate, it’s so wide and rich, you can’t just walk over it but lie down on it, feather pillow style. Drinking Window 2026 - 2040.Decanter | 98 DECThe 2018 Le Pin, tasted directly from barrel as usual, albeit six months later than primeur, ergo this represents the final blend. This has an intriguing bouquet - much more reserved and almost Left Bank in character with tightly wound black fruit laced with oyster shell and hints of seaweed. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a little more muscular than usual with touches of charcoal and graphite towards the beautifully defined finish. This is an intellectual Le Pin that will be fascinating to taste once in bottle.Vinous Media | 95-97 VM

A pure, creamy and well-structured yet very fine Evangile. Long and caressing. Very fine tannins. Lots of fresh dark fruit and savory, mineral character. Understated and classy. 69% merlot, 30% cabernet franc and 1% cabernet sauvignon.James Suckling | 96-97 JSThe 2021 L’Évangile is one of the triumphs of the year, especially considering L’Évangile is now farmed biodynamically. Sharply reduced yields—20 hectoliters-per-hectare versus upper 30s for the rest of the appellation—produced a deeply sensual wine. The 2021 spent 18 months in barrel, 40% new (significantly lower than in the past), with 15% of the wine aged in terra cotta. Those are only details though. What is most encouraging about L’Évangile is how far the property has come in the last few years. Superb. The 2021 L’Évangile is a model of contemporary excellence. It marries classicism with modern approaches to farming and winemaking.Vinous Media | 96 VMThe Grand Vin 2021 Château L’Evangile includes more Cabernet Franc and is 69% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Cabernet Sauvignon, brought up in 50% new French oak, with 15% amphora. Beautiful blue fruits, violets, chocolate, and some gravelly earth define the bouquet and while it’s a medium-bodied, more mid-weight L’Evangile, it has a wonderful purity of fruit, ripe, present, silky tannins, outstanding balance, and a great finish. It’s another vibrant, elegant, seamless Pomerol that will drink nicely with just short-term cellaring yet have 20 years of prime drinking.Jeb Dunnuck | 93-95 JDUnfurling in the glass with aromas of dark cherries and berries mingled with notions of licorice, black truffle, rose petal and iris, the 2021 L’Evangile is medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, with a broad and textural attack that segues into a charming, succulent mid-palate framed by sweet, powdery tannins. This saw only two rackings, and some 15% matured in amphora, with the rest in barriques that are less toasty than in the past; the result of these and other initiatives is a much more timeless expression of this property. Bottled in May 2023.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPSmells concentrated and quite bold, more of a heady nose, dark fruits and gorgeous perfumed Cabernet aspects. Succulent and juicy, a really appealing and charming palate, juiciness but density too, you get plump fruit here rather than a piercing focus giving more of a mouthful than some others but still with a detail to the fine tannins, the ripe fruit, cherry and blackcurrant and plum with a long finish. Sustained on the palate, this doesn’t let up, slowly building from start to finish giving a cool, delicate, refined palate but still with grippy maintaining attention. You can tell they got full ripeness here, but there’s also this lovely cooling, slate aspect - the soft chalkiness that comes in on the finish. I like this - the initial intensity, directness of black fruit and then the chalk texture. Feels nicely complete and one of the larger, more dense wines this vintage. A yield of 20hl/ha with all the Cabernet Sauvignon going into the grand vin. Juliette Couderc technical director. First year certified organic.Decanter | 94 DECDeep garnet-purple colored, the 2021 L’Evangile comes bounding out of the glass with exuberant notes of Morello cherries, wild blueberries, and black raspberries, plus suggestions of cloves, cinnamon stick, red roses, and fragrant earth. Medium-bodied, the palate has wonderful intensity with ripe, fine-grained tannins and tons of freshness (pH 3.6) finishing long and minerally. The blend is 69% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Cabernet Sauvignon, aging 15% in amphora, 50% in new oak, and 35% in 1-year barrels. The first Merlot was picked on 21 September, then the harvest continued for Merlot and Cabernet Franc until 4 October. The Cabernet Sauvignon was picked on 8 October.The Wine Independent | 91-94+ TWI

This has a firm, seamless and velvety tannin structure, accompanying a deep core of dark plum fruit, peach stones, chocolate and mahogany. Layered and caressing. Supple, yet full and powerful. Silky and smooth at the end. It shows real structure for the vintage and will age really well. 100% merlot.James Suckling | 98-99 JSThe 2021 Le Pin has turned out beautifully. Élevage has done wonders in building texture. Dark, pliant and super-expressive, the 2021 is fabulous right out of the gate. Bright acids resonate on the striking finish. Black cherry, plum, leather, spice, graphite and jasmine lend an exotic flair. Time in the glass releases the aromatics. The 2021 is a gorgeous wine.Vinous Media | 96 VMA gorgeous 2021 from Le Pin. Summer autumn berries on the nose - crunchy strawberry and ripe blackcurrant. So expressive with a beautiful fragrance and nuance of aroma. Incredibly precise and sharp, gorgeously clean and nuanced. It’s delicate no doubt, there’s barely any weight here but just such beautiful delineation of flavours that just linger on the tongue. It’s fresh and al dente. Really not trying too hard with lychee, orange peel, slightly exotic elements and a bitter spice on the finish. Silky and smooth, with drive and definition the whole way through. The signature is just slightly more cool in terms of aromatics but it’s still Le Pin.Decanter | 96 DECThe 2021 Le Pin has turned out beautifully in bottle, bursting with aromas of raspberries and blackberries mingled with notions of pencil shavings, spices, black truffle and licorice, framed by a discreet touch of new oak (only 55% new this year). Medium to full-bodied, ample and enveloping, it’s suave and sensual, with a fleshy core of fruit and beautifully refined tannins and concludes with a long, rose-inflected finish. Le Pin, after all, is an early-ripening, well-drained terroir, so it’s hardly surprising that it should perform especially well in a vintage like 2021.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPAlways 100% Merlot from a tiny parcel of clay and gravelly soils, the 2021 Château Le Pin offers up a textbook Le Pin nose of ripe red and blue fruits as well as toast, crème brûlée, spice, and exotic flowers. It’s one of the sexiest, most opulent, and seamless wines in the vintage and is medium-bodied, has beautiful tannins, and great overall balance.Jeb Dunnuck | 93-95 JDThe 2021 Le Pin is 100% Merlot, harvested from 25 September to 4 October with a yield of 35 hl/ha, and aging in 65% new oak. This finished blend was sampled straight from the barrel. Medium to deep garnet-purple in color, it needs a lot of swirling to unlock very pure notes of crushed black plums, fresh blackberries, and clove oil, followed by subtle hints of truffles, tobacco leaf, fertile loam, and Sichuan pepper. Medium-bodied, the palate delivers impactful energy with wonderful tension to the tightly knit black fruit layers and firm, ripe, rounded tannins, finishing long and minerally. pH 3.6.The Wine Independent | 92-94 TWI