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Gorgeous aromas of persimmons and spices as nutmeg, cinnamon, orange peel, and hints of caramel. Honey and apricot. Full-bodied, dry and layered with dried fruits such as apricots and pears. Botrytis spice. Fine silky phenolic texture and a flavorful finish. Layered and fascinating. Serve at 16 to 18 degrees centigrade. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 96 JSGravner’s legendary wine – the most sought-after skin-contact wine of Italy – is released seven years after the vintage. It’s the result of the scrupulous, unconventional work of Josko, from the vineyard to the cellar, that makes the 2015 vintage a deep, golden wine with amber hue. Its intriguing nose is rich in aromatic components like dried apricot, orange peel and resin notes. Mouthfilling with great texture and delicate tannins, it shows lovely acidity with a sapid, mineral finish.Decanter | 94 DEC

Bright straw. Lemon ice, orange peel, balsamic oils and herbs on the complex nose and in the mouth. Savory but juicy, with a very clean, sneakily concentrated mouthfeel and lots of density on the long, juicy finish. Another knockout from this estate in 2018.Vinous Media | 92 VMVery perfumed and quite intense pears and baked apples with some bright fragrance, too. The palate has a very smooth, supple texture and some bright, punchy pear and apple flavor. Smooth-honed and balanced. Drink now.James Suckling | 92 JSThe Köfererhof 2018 Alto Adige Valle Isarco Sylvaner shows some extra plushness and softness in this vintage, with summer peach, lemon blossom, honey and cantaloupe melon. Whereas most of the white varieties in the Köfererhof portfolio present lifted and vertical aromas with many flinty mineral nuances, this Sylvaner offers a tad more opulence and fruity richness. That extra texture opens this wine to spicy exotic foods like Singapore chili crab.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RP

Vibrant straw-green. Liquid minerals, jasmine, green apple and thyme on the enticing nose. Then rich and multilayered but also bright and fresh on the zingy mouthfeel. This outstanding, nuanced Müller-Thurgau finishes long, clean and mineral. Not likely to be the longest-lived Sass Rigais made by this estate, but will provide wonderful drinking over the next five years or so.Vinous Media | 94 VM

This vineyard site has dark marlstone soils, which are rare here. Most of the rest of the appellation sees white soils instead. The 2018 Gavi del Comune Gavi Rovereto opens to fragrant aromas of citrus, anise, crushed rock and even a tangy touch of spring onion. The bouquet of this wine is full and generous, with candied orange skin and preserved lemon, ending with a dusty mineral signature that is characteristic of the Rovereto vineyard site. You can no longer write "Gavi di Gavi" on the label. Now it must read "Gavi del Comune di Gavi."Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RPAromas of ripe yellow stone fruit and Spanish broom mingle with a smoky note. Reflecting the nose, the linear, elegant palate offers yellow peach, citrus and flinty mineral alongside vibrant acidity.Wine Enthusiast | 90 WE

This focused and pure wine opens with aromas of fresh and ripe Fuji apples, yellow flowers and distinct chalky notes. The palate is bright with vibrant acidity layered by roasted lemons and cream. Well balanced and intriguing, it’s a wine to drink now through 2030.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEThis is a delicious, full-bodied chardonnay with hazelnut cream, praline, apple pie, fresh mangoes and salted caramel on the nose. Lemons and gun flint too. Full of energy. Tangy acidity. Exciting. Drink now or hold.James Suckling | 93 JSShowing nice body and fruit weight, the Cordero San Giorgio 2020 Oltrepò Pavese Chardonnay Rivone opens to generous peach, orchard fruit and sweet pear. The wine’s aromas are soft and nicely layered with some nuttiness and spice. The wine’s natural acidity would match a classic chicken roast.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RP

The 2020 Grüner Veltliner is more savory than sweet with crushed rocks, musky pears, apricots and hints of flint. This is round and soothing, displaying a pleasant inner sweetness and vivid ripe orchard fruits balanced by saline-mineral tones. The 2020 tapers off long and staining, yet also lightly-structured, leaving hints of candied lime. There’s great potential here.Vinous Media | 93 VM

The 2020 Sylvaner is wickedly fresh and floral with crushed stone, yellow flowers and pretty young peach forming its bouquet. It’s silky upon entry, yet quickly builds in salty, savory tension with a rich mix of green apple and nectarine. There’s so much complexity and depth here, yet it’s still youthfully inward, finishing long and lightly-structured. The 2020 Sylvaner has energy to burn.Vinous Media | 92 VM

Enticing fruit-cocktail nose with a lemony twist, as well as some honey and meadow flowers. Medium-bodied with intense, super clean fruit flavors and a delicious finish. So well balanced. Enjoy now.James Suckling | 93 JSA blend of equal parts fiano and greco, this wine offers flavors of cool citrus in a round, creamy texture. Scented with apple blossom, chamomile and bee pollen, the wine gains richness with air, yet remains high-toned and refreshingWine & Spirits Magazine | 91 W&SA creamy white, with juicy yellow apple and pear fruit laced with hints of vanilla, verbena, anise and toast. Reveals a subtle, pleasing plumpness that’s refreshed and balanced by citrusy acidity and a tang of salinity. Fiano and Greco. Drink now. 1,000 cases made, 200 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

Zesty rich white from one of Italy’s warmest regions. An old historical estate owned by the creators of Sassicaia, this Grechetto comes from famed vineyards on the estate of the famous castle of Titignano. Featured at Michelin starred restaurant Ai Fiori in New York City, it’s nose is both packed with notes of citrus and florals, while the palate is high in acidity but also medium bodied making it perfect for all seasons.Sokolin Panel | 94+ SP

“Creamy and refreshing, Rigogoli bursts with flavors of peach, almond, sweet spice and finishes with a clean, sea-swept minerality. The native Grechetto di Todi pairs well with Viognier which rounds out Grechetto’s acidity, but also serves to add more complex aromas to this wine.” Sokolin Tasting Panel | 95 SP

Aromas that speak of freshness and maturity intermingle here, in a way that playfully calls those very categories into question. So much depth, vitality and finesse, the absence of obviously fruity aromas on the mid-palate not feeling like a lack. Then the finish pushes up face to face with the dazzling heart of the lemon. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 97 JSAn organic and biodynamic wine, the 2021 Manzoni Bianco Fontanasanta is partially aged in clay amphorae. The wine shows a brilliant appearance with creamy aromas of beeswax, dried apricot, poached pear and honey. It is slightly viscous in texture with solid fruit weight and glossy sensations on the finish. It is perfumed, pretty and ready to pair with white meat or shellfish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

Grown on the top of a dormant volcano, this Soave shows why Garganga is one of the great white grapes of Italy. The wine opens with apple and citrus blossoms with hints of acacia honey followed by fleshy white peaches, Fuji apples and well-defined minerality. The palate is creamy yet taut with fine acidity and tons of minerality accented by ripe stone fruits and citrus zest. Drink now–2035.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEAnother brilliant expression, reflecting a culture of kaleidoscopic blending to attain a greater whole: tank and oak (no new) ferments, partly induced and spontaneous, all at once. Rapier-like precision, depth and weight, without any excess or obvious winemaking artefact perceivable. Mid-weighted, yet intense, reeling off notes of smoked almond, stone fruit allusions, pickled mango and kumquat. The finish is impressively pliant and majestically long.James Suckling | 93 JSStony, flinty, smoky aromas, with sparks of gunflint and green apple. There are some stone fruit characters too, white peach and a little almond bitterness. A wine with good tension, concentration, and there’s a subtle elegance.Decanter | 92 DEC

This harmonious white offers bright, buoyant acidity and fresh character to the aromas and flavors of orchard blossoms, nectarine and yellow apple. Yet this also has a light, pleasing plumpness, plus rich hints of mango puree, slivered almond and vanilla-infused pastry cream. Medium-bodied and creamy, with a lingering finish of spices and stone. Drink now through 2031. 800 cases made, 100 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSBig and waxy chardonnay with ripe orchard and tropical fruit, notes of walnuts, pie crust and cream. Full-bodied, dense and oily with a mellow and ripe character framed by spicy and nutty nuances. Long finish. Drink now or hold.James Suckling | 93 JSA total seductress, the 2021 Chardonnay Ciampagnis lifts from the glass with an intense mix of lemon custards, sweet mint and confectionary spice. Its creamy textures soothe as a pure mix of ripe citrus-tinged orchard fruits settles upon the palate. Here it’s the acidity that impresses most, finishing remarkably vibrant despite its intense fruit-forward personality while leaving stimulating hints of lime and saline minerals to linger. Vie di Romans captures an amazing amount of complexity within the Ciampagnis yet uses only stainless steel in the aging process.Vinous Media | 91 VM

This is a beautifully expressive wine that benefits from lees aging in oak barrel. The Vie di Romans 2021 Friuli Isonzo Sauvignon Blanc Vieris (with 35,200 bottles released) has floral tones, plumeria, a touch of white pepper and ashy mineral notes. The Vieris shows less of the jalapeño that I got in the zesty Piere rendition of this same grape. This wine also offers some elegant petroleum-like hints that add to the overall complexity.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2021 Sauvignon Blanc Vieris opens slowly in the glass, holding back in its youthful state, with hints of lemon oil, rosemary and wet stone accentuated by sweet spice. This is seamlessly silky, almost oily in feel, with sapid yellow citrus and savory herbal tones enriched by vibrant acidity. It finishes potent and spicy, leaving the palate saturated in an intense staining of primary concentration. The potential here is off the charts, but today, the Vieris is one of the most backward wines out of the 2021 portfolio.Vinous Media | 94+ VMRich and dense sauvignon with notes of waxed lemons, ripe stone fruit, raw almonds with spicy and herbaceous nuances to it. It’s full-bodied with depth and creaminess on the palate, yet there is vivid acidity cutting through and giving it a fresh and citrusy vibe. Long finish. Drink now or hold.James Suckling | 93 JSA graceful, medium-bodied white that caresses the palate with a creamy texture. Features flavors of ripe mango and melon, blood orange peel and crushed pine supported by mouthwatering acidity and an underlying streak of salinity, both driving the well-honeyed finish. Drink now through 2031. 600 cases made, 200 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

The 2022 Vino Bianco Leukò bursts from the glass with a wild aromatic display of ground ginger, incense, dried peaches and sour melon. It’s soft and enveloping with a pleasant inner sweetness up front and zesty acidity as floral-laced white pit fruits and candied citrus tones cascade throughout. The palate is left reeling, watering for more, as a perfumed floral air dissipates over tropical kiwi hints. This is Leukò on steroids. It’s a blend of 70% Greco Bianco and 30% Gaglioppo, vinified white.Vinous Media | 92 VM

Rich and savory in the glass, the 2022 Bramìto della Sala slowly opens to show hints of young peach and apricot, crushed rocks and hints of cardamon. This is silky yet lifted in feel with ripe white pit fruits complemented by hints of vanilla bean and lemon custard. The 2022 finishes with admirable length and potency, as a bump of residual acidity maintains a lovely freshness. Bramìto della Sala remains one of the best values in Italian Chardonnay.Vinous Media | 92 VMThis fresh white shows fine interplay between rich hints of creamed apple, persimmon, vanilla and biscuit, with notes of Meyer lemon peel and tangy salinity. Light- to medium-bodied and creamy on the palate, with a well-cut finish. Drink now through 2027. 10,000 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

Attractive nose of ripe mangoes, pineapple and grilled lemons with some toasty, nutty notes and hints of smoky minerality. Cardamom and pie crust, too. It’s full-bodied, nervy and juicy, with bright acidity and savory nuances. It’s layered and long and it builds up on the palate, with vibrant, spicy notes of candied ginger, dried lemons and bitter citrus peel. Truly the Montrachet of Italy. Drink or hold. James Suckling | 98 JSThis is Marchesi Antinori’s top white wine, and it comes from the region of Umbria. The Castello della Sala 2022 Cervaro della Sala is based on Chardonnay and has a small part of the local grape Grechetto in the blend. The nose opens to a reductive note of flint or matchstick, but it lifts quickly to reveal soft orchard fruit, white peach and minty apple. There are delicately applied toasted notes with a hint of pecan or macadamia nut. To finish, you also get salty mineral notes that underline the extremely vertical or lifted personality of the bouquet. Renzo Cotarella tells me that tweaks to winemaking in recent years have attempted "to slim down the wine and not make it any bigger." This was a hot vintage, but Cervaro della Sala remains true to its leaner and meaner blueprint. However, given its accessible personality, we could expect a shorter drinking window for the 2022s.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RP

Energetic and bright with sliced green apples, mangoes and citrus with some honeysuckle. It’s medium- to full-bodied with lovely fruit. Electric acidity. Salty at the end. Drink now.James Suckling | 94 JS

This has aromas of sliced apples, fresh pears, lemons and melon. Creamy and fresh with a light to medium body and clean, refreshing finish. Drink now.James Suckling | 90 JS

A blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Nascetta and Riesling, the Luigi Baudana 2022 Langhe Bianco Dragon makes a very pretty appearance in the glass with brilliant luminosity. The wine plays its cards well with complexity, a tropical side with star fruit, minerality and sliced honeydew melon (the ripe side of the cut).Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RP

The 2022 Roero Arneis is fresh herbs and floral with tarragon, white flowers, and white peach. Medium-bodied and revealing fresh orchard fruit, saline, and notes of basil, it has texture but surprising freshness and is really lovely at this youthful stage. Drink it over the next several years.Jeb Dunnuck | 90 JD