Proprietary Blend Wines

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The 2017 Cargol Treu Vi definitely has something in common with the 2017 Principia Mathematica—the two vineyards are very close together, and the year seems to have marked them. 2017 was a very warm and early harvest, and the wines are a little softer and rounder. But there is a vibrant sensation here that I didn’t see in the Principia. This is livelier and has a tasty finish and an almost salty touch. 1,900 bottles were filled in August 2018 after approximately one year in barrique.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

Pale, shimmering yellow. Fresh pear, honeydew, tangerine and pungent flowers on the mineral-inflected nose. Offers lively, sharply focused orchard and citrus fruit flavors that are complemented by emerging ginger and white pepper notes adding back-end lift and cut. Silky and impressively lithe, delivering solid mineral thrust and repeating florality on the long, incisive finish.Vinous Media | 93 VM

Bright straw. Lemon ice, orange peel, balsamic oils and herbs on the complex nose and in the mouth. Savory but juicy, with a very clean, sneakily concentrated mouthfeel and lots of density on the long, juicy finish. Another knockout from this estate in 2018.Vinous Media | 92 VMVery perfumed and quite intense pears and baked apples with some bright fragrance, too. The palate has a very smooth, supple texture and some bright, punchy pear and apple flavor. Smooth-honed and balanced. Drink now.James Suckling | 92 JSThe Köfererhof 2018 Alto Adige Valle Isarco Sylvaner shows some extra plushness and softness in this vintage, with summer peach, lemon blossom, honey and cantaloupe melon. Whereas most of the white varieties in the Köfererhof portfolio present lifted and vertical aromas with many flinty mineral nuances, this Sylvaner offers a tad more opulence and fruity richness. That extra texture opens this wine to spicy exotic foods like Singapore chili crab.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RP

The 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape Blanc is more mineral laced, with medium to full-bodied aromas and flavors of stone fruits, acacia flowers, tangerine, and honeysuckle. Beautifully textured, concentrated, and the real deal, it’s another incredible white from this estate to enjoy over the coming 10-15 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDRipe and forward style, with a mix of candied lemon peel, white peach and yellow apple flavors infused liberally with honeysuckle and acacia. Everything bounces along together through the lively finish. Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Roussanne and Bourboulenc. Drink now through 2023. 367 cases made, 100 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSRipe, rich and a bit soft in feel, the 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc is roughly equal parts Bourboulenc, Clairette, Grenache Blanc and Roussanne. Pear, pineapple and melon notes all make themselves known on the nose, while the medium to full-bodied palate is round and generous, finishing with notes of ripe citrus (tangerine). I’ve given it a relatively short drinking window so you can enjoy it while young and fresh, but if you like broad, truffle-y whites, you might want to hold it a few years longer.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RP

A fresh version, with bright yellow plum, green almond and white peach flavors backed by notes of lemon shortbread and quinine on the plump finish. Marsanne and Roussanne. Drink now through 2026. 100 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WSPretty apple blossom, spice, and sappy flower notes dominate the bouquet of the 2019 Saint Joseph Blanc. This carries to a more medium-bodied, elegant white that offers a solid sense of minerality, good mid-palate depth and concentration, notable balance, and a great finish. It’s a beautiful Saint Joseph white to drink over the coming decade.Jeb Dunnuck | 92 JDA bit more mineral than the Crozes-Hermitage, the Marsanne-dominant 2019 Saint-Joseph Blanc comes exclusively from the southern portion of the appellation, around Sarras and Tournon. Scents of crushed stone and pencil shavings (half was matured in tank, one-fourth in new oak and one-fourth in second-fill oak) accent notes of underripe peach and citrus on the nose, while the medium-bodied palate is crisp, linear and long on the finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RP

Bursting with aromas of apples, pears, almonds, warm bread and dried fruits, the 2019 Méthode Ancestrale Une Bulle is medium to full-bodied, fleshy and concentrated, with lively acids and a pillowy mousse. It’s a touch drier than its 2018 counterpart.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RP

Full-bodied, very intense on the palate, great impact and lovely driving acidity with a tangy, intense finish. Great definition and drive. Really dynamic and delicious. The alcohol is a little raised and the oak quite forthright, but this is such a dynamic, vivid white Châteauneuf. Grown on sandy-clay soils of lieux-dits La Crau and La Janasse. Roussanne component aged for seven months in barrel, 75% new. Drinking Window 2021 - 2030.Decanter | 95 DECThis bright, banana-and-grapefruit-scented wine is a blend of equal parts unoaked Grenache Blanc and Clairette accentuated by a smaller proportion of Roussanne matured in French oak (80% new). This calibrated blending gives this full-bodied dry white a zesty, green-fruited flair juxtaposed by unctousness of texture and delicately smoky, vanilla-kissed notes of pastry and toast. While approachable young, the wine should evolve nicely through 2035 at least.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEBeautifully done, the 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape Blanc should be snatched up by savvy readers. Offering beautiful notes of ripe pineapple, caramelized peach, white flowers, and a touch of salty minerality, it hits the palate with medium to full-bodied richness, a layered, seamless texture, beautifully integrated acidity, and a big finish. This cuvée has an incredible track record for aging, and it can be enjoyed now or cellared for upwards of 15-20 years, if you’re so inclined.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JD

A blend of equal parts Marsanne and Roussanne, the 2019 Crozes-Hermitage Domaine Mule Blanche Blanc has a rounded, medium-bodied, nicely textured style that carries plenty of pear, citrus blossom, and sappy herbs notes as well as a touch of salty minerality. A fleshy, undeniably delicious, balanced white, it’s ideal for drinking over the coming 4-5 years, if not longer. It would be a great introduction to the white wines of this appellation.Jeb Dunnuck | 92 JDAlready bottled, the 2019 Crozes Hermitage Mule Blanche (Domaine) harkens back toward the quality of the superb 2017, with gentle nutty complexities interwoven with crushed stone, spice, melon and pear. Medium to full-bodied, this 50-50 blend of Marsanne and Roussanne from Les Chassis displays beautiful harmony and roundness while remaining long and crisp on the finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RP

Lovely peach, pear and yellow plum notes form the core, with well-inlaid acidity for support and light verbena and shortbread accents gilding the lush finish. Marsanne and Roussanne. Drink now through 2024. 300 cases made, 10 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSBeautifully pure quince, ripe peach, and caramelized citrus notes emerge from the 2019 Crozes-Hermitage Blanc, which shows a more medium-bodied, clean, vibrant style. It doesn’t have the richness of the Saint-Joseph releases, yet I love its purity of fruit as well as its balance. It’s going to gain depth with a year of bottle age and keep for 7-8 years, probably longer.Jeb Dunnuck | 93 JDSvelte in structure yet pulsating with rich black plum and cassis, this full-bodied Syrah calibrates pure, ripe fruit against complexities of granite, fur and black olive. Matured ten months in oak, it’s a velveteen, concentrated sip but brisk and bright too, finishing on fine-grained, upright tannins. Approachable young, the wine will likely drink beautifully through 2030.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WEVery good - this is a fairly rich style of white Crozes, the oak is quite lovingly applied, but it works well. Lacks a bit of focus, but it’s enjoyable with concentrated pear and melon flavours. Drinking Window 2021 - 2022.Decanter | 90 DEC

Even if already sold out, I also tasted the white 2020 Cullerot because it’s probably their finest vintage for this wine. The nose is very expressive, with notes of flowers, talcum powder, fennel and aniseed, pollen and herbs, with a soft texture combining volume with freshness in a year when the grapes ripened properly. It’s been settled by some time in bottle and feels very harmonious and ready. It has 13.2% alcohol with a pH of 3.23 (the white does not go through malolactic) and feels very balanced, tasty and supple. 40,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in February 2021.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92+ RP(Cullerot Blanco- Celler del Roure) Celler del Roure is blessed with ancient cellars carved into the bedrock below the winery, where past generations fermented and aged the wines in amphorae dug into the stone. They were not used for several decades, but recently the winery decided it would be interesting to see how these amphora wines would taste and started to produce a lineup of bottlings made from these ancient vessels. The Cullerot Blanco bottling is composed of a blend that includes Pedro Ximénez, Macabeo and Malvasia, among other varieties co-planted in the vineyards. The wine starts out fermentation in stainless steel tanks and then is transferred to the amphorae embedded in the rock for six months of aging. The 2020 Cullerot comes in at thirteen percent alcohol and offers up a complex nose of tart orange, breadfruit, lemongrass, lovely soil tones, citrus peel and a touch of honeysuckle in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, nicely ripe and complex, with a fine core, excellent soil signature, zesty acids and a long, complex and very well balanced finish. This is most impressive! (Drink between 2022 - 2028)John Gilman | 92 JG

The 2020 Dão Branco from Lúcia Ferreira is crafted from a cépages of twenty-five percent Encruzado, thirty-two percent Malvasia Fina, nineteen percent Bicoal and fourteen percent Gouveio. The wine is fermented and aged in stainless steel. The 2020 version is drinking beautifully today, delivering a refined bouquet of white peach, fresh lime, a touch of casaba melon, white soil tones, gentle floral tones and a hint of beeswax in the upper register. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied, focused and complex, with a lovely core of fruit, fine soil undertow and grip and a long, well balanced and very classy finish. This is an excellent wine that still has years and years of life ahead of it. (Drink between 2023 - 2040)John Gilman | 92 JG

Enticing fruit-cocktail nose with a lemony twist, as well as some honey and meadow flowers. Medium-bodied with intense, super clean fruit flavors and a delicious finish. So well balanced. Enjoy now.James Suckling | 93 JSA blend of equal parts fiano and greco, this wine offers flavors of cool citrus in a round, creamy texture. Scented with apple blossom, chamomile and bee pollen, the wine gains richness with air, yet remains high-toned and refreshingWine & Spirits Magazine | 91 W&SA creamy white, with juicy yellow apple and pear fruit laced with hints of vanilla, verbena, anise and toast. Reveals a subtle, pleasing plumpness that’s refreshed and balanced by citrusy acidity and a tang of salinity. Fiano and Greco. Drink now. 1,000 cases made, 200 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

The white 2021 Cargol Treu Vi has notes of pollen and yellow fruit with some browning apples. It has contained ripeness and 12.4% alcohol with a very low pH and high-ish acidity but comes through as more evolved and somewhat riper than the phenomenal Principia Mathematica form this same vintage. It has pungent flavors and a medium-bodied palate, with some spice from aging in 300-liter barrels for 10 to 11 months. 2,100 bottles were filled in August 2022.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

There’s a touch of oak on the nose and palate that helps to frame the tangy citrus notes, and lends a touch of spice, but it’s far from overwhelming. Full-bodied, classically Lirac in its breadth on the palate. Ends on a nip of grapefruit bitterness. Good acidity. Also contains Marsanne, Viognier and Piquepoul.Decanter | 92 DECBrimming with stone-fruit aromas with a touch of mango, this is a rich but very clean and crisp dry white from the Southern Rhone. Good concentration and a touch of positive tannin help it carry the generous body and 14.5% alcohol. From organically grown grapes. Drink now.James Suckling | 90 JS

Primarily Clairette (60%) and Ugni Blanc (30%), with bits of Bourboulenc, Marsanne and Rolle, the 2021 Bandol Blanc was still in tank when I visited early last year. It presents a striking juxtaposition of ripe pears and honeyed richness with brighter notes of fresh lime juice on the nose and medium-bodied palate, finishing with a sense of plush richness balanced by mouthwatering citrus zest and brine.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-94 RPWith a higher percentage of Ugni Blanc and 10 months in foudres, this has less overt tropical fruit and more restraint. The closed nose opens to white peaches, melon and delicate tropical fruit with a hint of fresh greenness and white nuts. Citrus-pith-tight acidity gives a mouthwatering finish with a touch of chalky phenolics and smoky notes on the finish. Delicate, elegant and beautiful with an intense structure, this is still very youthful with the potential to open up with some age.Decanter | 92 DEC

The very young white 2021 Blanco de Sierra de Toloño is mostly Viura with some Calagraño and Rojal that is pure, fresh and straightforward, with a floral touch and a tasty finish from what Sandra Bravo described as "the finest vintage of my life." The grapes ripened late, at the same time as the old-vine Tempranillo. It has 12.5% alcohol and a pH of 3.23, medium-bodied, fresh, vibrant and tasty. Great value. 9,000 bottles were filled in March 2022 after resting in tank with lees.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RP

The 2022 Vino Bianco Leukò bursts from the glass with a wild aromatic display of ground ginger, incense, dried peaches and sour melon. It’s soft and enveloping with a pleasant inner sweetness up front and zesty acidity as floral-laced white pit fruits and candied citrus tones cascade throughout. The palate is left reeling, watering for more, as a perfumed floral air dissipates over tropical kiwi hints. This is Leukò on steroids. It’s a blend of 70% Greco Bianco and 30% Gaglioppo, vinified white.Vinous Media | 92 VM

This is Marchesi Antinori’s top white wine, and it comes from the region of Umbria. The Castello della Sala 2022 Cervaro della Sala is based on Chardonnay and has a small part of the local grape Grechetto in the blend. The nose opens to a reductive note of flint or matchstick, but it lifts quickly to reveal soft orchard fruit, white peach and minty apple. There are delicately applied toasted notes with a hint of pecan or macadamia nut. To finish, you also get salty mineral notes that underline the extremely vertical or lifted personality of the bouquet. Renzo Cotarella tells me that tweaks to winemaking in recent years have attempted "to slim down the wine and not make it any bigger." This was a hot vintage, but Cervaro della Sala remains true to its leaner and meaner blueprint. However, given its accessible personality, we could expect a shorter drinking window for the 2022s.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RP

The varietal Albariño 2022 X, which contains some 5% Treixadura, was produced with grapes from schist and granite soils. It has a nose of dry herbs and a Mediterranean feeling to it, perhaps from the warmer year. The palate has depth and personality, nice texture and a long aftertaste. 7,000 bottles were produced. It was bottled in May 2023.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92+ RPRicardo Carreiro’s Gomariz X bottling is made from a blend of ninety-five percent Albariño and five percent Treixadura. The wine is deep and complex, offering up a fine bouquet of tart orange, limepeel, a touch of menthol, stony minerality, dried flowers and a touch of lemongrass in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, focused and complex, with a rock solid core of fruit, fine mineral undertow and grip, a lovely spine of acidity and a long, well balanced and vibrant finish. In Ribeiro, blends of Albariño and Treixadura are usually weighted in the Treixadura direction, with Albariño playing a supporting role in the cuvée. It is fascinating to taste and example where the inverse is true. This is a lovely bottle. (Drink between 2024 - 2032)John Gilman | 92 JG

Aromas of ripe summer peach, lemon zest, wet river rocks and honeysuckle waft from the glass. This wine is full in the mouth and has brilliant acidity. It offers flavors of orange marmalade, peach pie, lemon, and dried herbs de Provence. Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEThe white fruit has a nervy minerality with green apple aromas and seashell chalkiness. Nicely saline on the palate with a medium body and a bone-dry, tangy finish with some seashells and peaches. Vegan. Drink now.James Suckling | 92 JS

The 2022 Malvasia Volcánica from Bermejo is a fine, fine follow-up to the excellent 2021 version. The bouquet wafts from the glass in a vibrant and complex blend of tangerine, peach, lime blossoms, a lovely base of volcanic minerality, a touch of wild fennel and a lovely array of other floral tones in the upper register. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, focused and zesty, with a superb core of fruit, excellent mineral drive and grip, lovely balance and a long, complex and very classy finish. This is superb wine. (Drink between 2023 - 2035)John Gilman | 92+ JG