Rare Wines

wines

Tasted over lunch, the Soldera Case Basse 2020 100% Sangiovese shows a softly textured profile with beautifully polymerized tannins that create a taut sounding board for notes of cassis, small berry fruit, violets and crushed stone. Made with spontaneous fermentation in oversized vats and aged carefully in the family cellars in surrounding quiet and darkness, this soulful wine remains true to the spirit of Sangiovese, defined by clarity and finesse. The 2020 vintage has an accessible, open-knit character that suits it well and clearly distinguishes it from the more austere 2019 and the super precise 2021. In this context, 2020 offers a softer, more delicate interlude between the two.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe most vivid crushed cherry gives way to rose pastille, sweet lavender and nuances of clove and exotic spice as the exuberant 2020 Toscana Sangiovese comes to life in the glass. It displays pure class on the palate. It’s silken and soothingly round with a pretty mix of ripe strawberry and blueberry that swirl throughout, as crisp mineral tones and a contrasting tinge of sour citrus add unparalleled depth. Incredibly complex yet juicy and spry, the 2020 leaves crunchy tannins that firm up the impossibly long finish without slowing its momentum. I don’t recall ever tasting a young Soldera that showed this much energy and verve. It’s already so pleasurable yet has the balance to mature beautifully over the coming decades.Vinous Media | 97 VMTasted from a 65-hectoliter cask, the 2020 Sangiovese is plush and fruity at this stage, although it’s starting to reveal its mineral underpinnings, with dark blackberry notes, graphite, and violets. Medium to full-bodied, it offers a velvety texture, with ripe and refined tannins, a good deal of meaty richness through the mid-palate, and a seamless structure. There’s both purity and refinement across each of the samples tasted. The 2020 showed a good deal of completeness already prior to bottling and I expect it will have a good deal of cellaring potential.Jeb Dunnuck | 96-99 JD

A complex and minerally wine with aromas of crushed stones, graphite, red cherries, licorice, dried flowers and aromatic herbs. Full-bodied, tense and crisp on the palate, with firm, velvety tannins and a juicy, chalky yet ripe finish with fruity and gamy flavors. Best from 2028.James Suckling | 96 JSThe Pieve Santa Restituta 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Rennina delivers power and a full-bodied style shaped by a warm vintage and carefully calibrated oak aging under the Gaja family’s expert hand. It shows notable volume and texture, with an open-knit feel that reveals black fruit and spice on the close. Tightly wound at present, it requires more time to age and fully integrate its elements. This is a production of 14,400 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Rennina boasts a dark ruby hue and a bouquet of crushed blackberries, dusty sage, talc, nuances of mint and orange zest. It’s racy with bright acidity and crisp wild berry fruits that slowly saturate the senses, further enhanced by an array of grippy tannins. This Brunello finishes with excellent length and heroic structure, leaving a cascade of inner florals and subtle licorice twang.Vinous Media | 95 VMCurrently resting in concrete, the 2021 Brunello Di Montalcino Renina is a jeweled ruby hue and offers aromatics that are compact and pure with liqueur of red cherries. It’s more consistent on the palate, with ripe tannins, seamless acidity, crystalline freshness, and a very even and long finish, but it’s not lacking for ripeness. I predict this will be a very successful vintage for this wine, which is more similar to 2019 in terms of its more noble structure.Jeb Dunnuck | 95-97 JD

A sleek and graceful wine with aromas of Parma violets, licorice, red fruit and a touch of mint. Full-bodied, it shows elegant tannins with freshness and well-tamed power. Amazing length, with a polished cherry pit aftertaste. Drinkable now, but intended for aging. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 98 JSA layered and complex expression, the Pieve Santa Restituta 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille combines dark fruit and oak with a deep plummy core accented by delicate hints of exotic spice. A precise mineral line runs through the wine and leads to fine, powdery tannins. The overall profile remains tightly wound at this young stage and will benefit from time to settle into a more integrated and complete expression. Sugarille is known to make wines with a subtle sweet-edged richness and supple yet structured tannins, shaped by soils rich in galestro and white clay that lend both age-worthy structure and mineral complexity. Production totals 9,500 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille bursts from the glass with masses of thyme, incense, rosemary and cedar before giving way to dried strawberries. It presents a subtle inner sweetness and elegant texture, coming across as weighty yet refined, with polished red berry fruits swirling throughout and leaving a bitter licorice tinge to linger on the palate. A complex web of fine-grained tannins flexes on the palate as a tart wild berry saturation lingers incredibly long. The 2021 is youthfully dense and tightly wound today, with the balance for a long and glorious evolution.Vinous Media | 96+ VMThe 2021 Brunello Di Montalcino Sugarille was also resting in concrete when I tasted it in November of 2024. (The blend was completed in July.) It displays a darker red color and is deeper and more layered on the nose, with darker cherry fruit liqueur, sappy herbs, and fresh earth. It’s juicy and ripe at this early stage, with very nice balance, ripe tannins, a full, rounded feel, and a deeper mineral richness.Jeb Dunnuck | 95-97 JD