Red Wines

wines

The prodigious 1997 Amarone Vigneto Alto TB is reminiscent of Henri Bonneau’s 1990 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve des Celestins. The lofty 16% alcohol is barely noticeable. Yields were a minuscule 20 hectoliters per hectare. Sadly, there are only 300 cases of this extraordinary Amarone. It boasts notes of smoke, truffle oil, blackberries, plums, and earthy, concentrated black currant jam. Layered, thick, full-bodied, and dry, with extraordinary purity as well as definition, it is an amazing achievement. While not for everybody, this is a singular, impeccably balanced wine. Anticipated maturity: now-2020.Robert Parker | 96 RP

(Masseto Masseto Red) A dark, seamless beauty, the 1998 Masseto is off the charts. This is such a remarkable bottle. At twenty years of age, the 1998 is still very young, but its exotic beauty and sheer opulence make it such a pleasure to drink and taste on this evening. The very hot, dry year yielded a sumptuous, bold wine with tons of depth that really emerges with time in the glass. What a wine! (Drink between 2018-2033)Vinous Media | 98 VMHerbaceous, with bell pepper, wild herb, coffee and cocoa notes set against a background of cherry and plum fruit. Nonetheless, this is silky and fluid, with a fine structure building to a lingering finish. Merlot.—Non-blind Masseto vertical (October 2017). Drink now through 2032. 2,580 cases made. — BSWine Spectator | 97 WS

Gaja's 2000 Sperss is wonderfully open and radiant. Layers of dark fruit, grilled herbs, cassis and smoke saturate the palate in this powerful, stunningly beautiful Sperss. Gorgeous inner perfume and a long, intense finish round things out in style.Vinous Media | 96 VMIncredible amount of fruit and character in this wine, with mint, mineral, blackberry and plum aromas turning to tobacco and tar. Full-bodied, with an iron-cast core of fruit and velvety tannins and a long, long finish. Incredibly tight and powerful. Give this a decade. From Gaja's 30-acre vineyard in the Barolo-producing zone of Serralunga. Best after 2013. 2,800 cases made, 580 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSGaja’s 2000 Sperss is wonderfully open and radiant. Layers of dark fruit, grilled herbs, cassis and smoke saturate the palate in this powerful, stunningly beautiful Sperss. Gorgeous inner perfume and a long, intense finish round things out in style. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030.Angelo Gaja’s 2000s are a bit of a mystery. The wines were absolutely beautiful upon release and equally impressive when I tasted them a few years later for the 7th edition of Parker’s Wine Buyers Guide. The 2000s were far less convincing when I tasted them in November 2010. All of the wines were initially very reticent and closed. After an hour or two in the glass they opened for about 30 minutes before closing back down again. Gaja thinks the wines are passing through a stage of inaccessibility. If anyone deserves the benefit of the doubt it is Gaja. I can’t remember the last older wine from this cellar that was a disappointment or that hadn’t aged well, and I have been privileged to taste the vast majority of wines that have been made here under Angelo Gaja’s tenure. Time will ultimately tell where these wines are headed, but this was not an especially flattering showing for Gaja’s 2000s. That said, most producers would be thrilled to have wines like these in their cellars. In some ways, Gaja is a victim of his own success. He sets such a high bar with his finest vintages; it is only natural to expect greatness all the time. The 2000s fall a bit short of that mark but are quite strong in the context of the year.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RP

Another tricky vintage affected by hail and rain during the growing season, but saved by a stretch of sunshine at the end of the summer. This wine is herbaceous but delightful, very elegant and fine. It has delicate cherry lift on the nose, with subtle summer woodland notes. In the mouth it has an overt structure of milk chocolate tannins, framing juicy cherry fruit and hedgerow fruit. Drinking Window 2018 - 2032Decanter | 95 DECDal Forno’s 2002 Amarone is a first-class effort in every way. The wine reveals loads of ripe, generous fruit that flow onto the palate with stunning intensity. This remarkably pure Amarone possesses incredible detail in its dark wild cherries, chocolate, herbs and toasted oak. The tannins build mightily on the finish even if this isn’t one of Dal Forno’s most massive wines. There is a lot of purity and depth here, although the tannins could use a little more polish. At first I thought this might be a relatively early-maturing wine but when I came back to an unopened bottle after two-plus days it had barely budged! Anticipated maturity: 2009-2017.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPDal Forno’s 2002 Amarone is a first-class effort in every way. The wine reveals loads of ripe, generous fruit that flow onto the palate with stunning intensity. This remarkably pure Amarone possesses incredible detail in its dark wild cherries, chocolate, herbs and toasted oak. The tannins build mightily on the finish even if this isn’t one of Dal Forno’s most massive wines. There is a lot of purity and depth here, although the tannins could use a little more polish. At first I though this might be a relatively early-maturing wine but when I came back to an unopened bottle after two-plus days it had barely budged!Vinous Media | 94 VMThis is very balanced and refined with precise tannins and fresh acidity. Full to medium body with integrated tannins and a racy finish. Not as big and muscular as some Amarones from here but all in balance and length. Finesse. Drink now.James Suckling | 93 JSShows aromas of leather, smoked ham, prune, tarry mineral and dried flowers. An amazing panoply for a 2002, which was a weak vintage. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a long, intense, peppery finish. Given the difficulties of the vintage, this is a fine effort by Dal Forno. Drink now through 2016. 910 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WSWinemaker Romano Dal Forno fearlessly confronted the soggy 2002 vintage with high extraction techniques and barrique aging (36 months). This is an inky, dense wine (more syrupy than it is vinous) with black currant, peppermill, chocolate fudge and big firm wood tannins. It is so monolithic, a viable food match is virtually impossible. As always, Dal Forno straddles a fine line between brilliance and exaggeration.Wine Enthusiast | 90 WE

Monte Lodoletta Amarone is an exercise in extraction. The wine is absolutely black. Aromas are concentrated and intense and the wine is equally enormous in the mouth thanks to the extraction, oak, fruit and the hot climatic conditions associated with this vintage. Drink after 2020.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEDal Forno’s 2003 Amarone is a joy to taste. Today it is surprisingly much more accessible than the Valpolicella in this vintage. Inviting aromatics lead to a sumptuous expression of dark fruit, bitter chocolate, minerals, licorice, tar and smoke. The wine possesses stunning depth and a finish that lasts forever. A few years of bottle age will allow the wine to acquire additional complexity, but this remains one of the more accessible Amarones (in relative terms) that Dal Forno has made in the recent past. According to Dal Forno, the 2003 Amarone has a touch more residual sugar than is the norm here (owing to the hot vintage), which is the main reason the wine remains relatively accessible. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020.All of these wines from Romano Dal Forno require significant aeration to show the true breadth of this passionate grower’s innovative style. Ideally the wines should be cellared for a minimum of a few years. Readers in search of short-term gratification are advised to open these bottles at least eight to ten hours before serving. This also holds for the Valpolicella, which has become an especially massive, structured wine after Dal Forno started producing it from 100% dried fruit in the 2002 vintage. Dal Forno favors 100% new American oak for his wines, although in recent years he has brought the aging regime down considerably.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPDal Forno’s 2003 Amarone is a joy to taste. Today it is surprisingly much more accessible than the Valpolicella in this vintage. Inviting aromatics lead to a sumptuous expression of dark fruit, bitter chocolate, minerals, licorice, tar and smoke. The wine possesses stunning depth and a finish that lasts forever. A few years of bottle age will allow the wine to acquire additional complexity, but this remains one of the more accessible Amarones (in relative terms) that Dal Forno has made in the recent past. According to Dal Forno, the 2003 Amarone has a touch more residual sugar than is the norm here (owing to the hot vintage), which is the main reason the wine remains relatively accessible.Antonio Galloni | 95 AGThis has a great nose, with loads of peppery, meaty dried black fruit, fig and floral aromas, with an array of spices, fresh herbs and violet. Full-bodied, concentrated and chewy, with a long, intense finish. Built to age. Best after 2011. 940 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WSDal Forno’s practice of using older parcels of vines for his Amarone paid off in 2003, with the more established plants able to better withstand the drought conditions of the vintage. This has aromas of dark, plummy fruit, while the palate pairs a rich mouthfeel with grippy tannins. It’s soft and very textured, with juicy blackberry followed by violet and wild herb overtones and a chocolatey finish. Surprisingly accessible considering its massive scale. Drinking Window 2018 - 2032Decanter | 94 DEC

One of the most positive surprises of my tastings this year wasn’t a 2005 or 2004 Riserva but rather Il Poggione’s 2003 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli, which has developed spectacularly since I first reviewed it last year. This awesome, deep Brunello is endowed with gorgeous dark fruit that emerges from the glass with superb richness and power while retaining a traditional sense of structure. There is more than enough fruit to balance the firm tannins that are typical of this hot year. I was blown away by the combination of opulence and classicism present in the 2003 Riserva. If that sounds appealing, believe me it is. The 2003 Riserva is drinking beautifully today and should continue to offer great pleasure for several decades. The estate’s 1975, from a very hot vintage at the time, was in great shape when I last tasted it a few years ago. As an aside, readers interested in older vintages will find plenty of notes on our database. Given the soft market for fine wines and the general disdain for 2003s, I would be shocked if savvy readers aren’t able to pick up this wine at a favorable price at some point in the near future. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2032.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPOne of the great surprises of my tasting this year wasn’t a 2005 or 2004 Riserva but rather Il Poggione’s 2003 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli, which has developed spectacularly since I first reviewed it last year. This awesome, deep Brunello is endowed with gorgeous dark fruit that emerges from the glass with superb richness and power while retaining a traditional sense of structure. There is more than enough fruit to balance the firm tannins that are typical of this hot year. I was blown away by the combination of opulence and classicism present in the 2003 Riserva. If that sounds appealing, believe me it is. The 2003 Riserva is drinking beautifully today and should continue to offer great pleasure for several decades. The estate’s 1975, from a very hot vintage at the time, was in great shape when I last tasted it a few years ago. Readers interested in older vintages will find plenty of notes on our database. Given the soft market for fine wines and the general disdain for 2003s, I would be shocked if savvy readers aren’t able to pick this wine at a favorable price at some point in the near future.Vinous Media | 95 VMRich, decadent aromas of blackberry and dried rose, with hints of prune. Full-bodied, with delicious fruit, round tannins and a long finish. Layered and beautiful. Best after 2010. 2,700 cases made, 500 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

One of the highlights in the evening, the 2004 Solaia (magnum) is the first wine that represents a move towards more finesse and elegance. There is plenty of explosive richness, but the 2004 is also incredibly nuanced. Graphite, licorice, leather and layers of dark fruit build in a powerful yet incredibly refined Solaia. The 2004 is such a beautiful wine.Vinous Media | 97 VMAromas of currants, plums and hints of mint. Full-bodied, firm and silky with a dusty, tannic background. Very long and intense. Beautiful now but shows lots of life still.James Suckling | 97 JSThe thrilling 2004 Solaia (75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Sangiovese and 5% Cabernet Franc) is clearly one of the highlights of this great vintage. Endowed with massive amounts of concentration as well as structure, it is a big, powerful Solaia that does not sacrifice elegance or balance in its full-bodied personality. Packed with the essence of blackberries, chocolate, tar, smoke, cassis and menthol, this layered beauty exhibits great length and a persistent, warmly alcoholic finish. It has been stunning on the three occasions I have had it so far and is not to be missed. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2024.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPShows beautiful, complex aromas of flowers, currant and Christmas cake. Full-bodied, chewy and powerful. Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Cabernet Franc. Best after 2010. 5,830 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WSThe 2004 Solaia is dense and concentrated with loads of character and defining aromatics: plump blackberry, chocolate fudge, exotic spice, peppercorn and smooth balsam notes. The real pleasure comes in the mouth where it delivers smooth elegance and an extra long finish.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WENo written review provided. | 91 W&S

Far more captivating, the 2004 Brunello di Montalcino appears to have barely budged since it was released a few years back. Stylistically, the 2004 remains one of the more mid-weight vintages at Salvioni, yet it is so finessed. Remarkably fresh and nuanced, the 2004 has all the qualities that made it so appealing when it was a young wine. Everything is simply in the right place. What a gorgeous wine this is.Vinous Media | 97 VMSalvioni’s 2004 Brunello di Montalcino is made in a style that brilliantly reconciles a modern approach in the vineyards (tiny yields, full phenolic ripeness) with a traditional approach to winemaking (long macerations, cask aging). An explosive, super-ripe wine, this Brunello flows from the glass with mesmerizing richness and stunning balance. The gorgeous red fruit carries through all the way to the finish, where flowers, tobacco and spices add further complexity. In many ways, Salvioni’s Brunello di Montalcino is the region’s equivalent to Giacomo Conterno’s Barolo Cascina Francia, a wine with which it shares many attributes. Simply put, this is a gem from Giulio Salvioni, and it is not to missed! Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPShows aromas of clove, vanilla, blueberry and cherry. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a fruity, chewy tannin finish. Needs some bottle age to mellow a little. Best after 2011. 725 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

The 2005 Rosso del Bepi is made with the same blend of grapes found in the Valpolicella Superiore. Only in the case of this wine, the entire mass of fruit sees a four-month appassimento cycle. The wine is aged in large oak casks for eight years. A severe hail storm in 2005 reduced yields. The fruit was good in that vintage, but not good enough to become Amarone. All that potential got locked into this wine instead. Despite its age, the Rosso del Bepi offers surprising freshness and crispness with delineated tones of dried cherry and pressed rose. This wine has more decades of cellar aging locked within.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RP

This is a Masseto that is its own now with balance and harmony. It shows delicate chocolate and berry character with hints of hazelnut. Medium to full body. Long silky finish. Drink now.James Suckling | 96 JSTasted next to the 2002, the 2005 Masseto is perhaps a bit edgier, with an extra kick of tannic intensity that gives the wine its sense of direction and a good kick of energy too. I very much admire the tension in the 2005, a wine built on freshness, aromatic depth and mid-weight structure. Cool, rainy weather towards the end of the season resulted in a late harvest that took place between September 14 and 30.Antonio Galloni | 95 AGFruit was picked later than normal and the Masseto Merlot does indeed show mature aromas of black cherry, ripe blackberry, earthy iron and polished stone. The intensity and purity are amazing and the wine is sophisticated, soft and very rich on the finish. It is already showing beautiful evolution in the glass.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEThe 2005 Masseto (Merlot) is simply gorgeous. A wine of extraordinary class and personality, it remains very primary in its dark fruit, licorice, cassis and toasted oak. It offers notable concentration and well-integrated tannins, all of which convey an impression of awesome harmony, finesse and balance. The tricky growing season seems to have been less of an issue for the Merlot, particularly in the old-vine Masseto Centrale vineyard. The 2005 Masseto has been superb every time I have tasted it thus far. As is often the case, the wine requires at least a few years of bottle age before it becomes approachable. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2025.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPAn exotic bouquet reveals floral, spice, cherry compote and truffle elements. A Masseto that’s all about elegance, with a silky texture, wild berry fruit, firm tannins and bright acidity. This still has some tannins to give, but is delicious now. Fine length. Merlot.—Non-blind Masseto vertical (October 2017). Drink now through 2033. 2,660 cases made, 550 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

Displays loads of mint, eucalyptus, currant and meat on the nose. Full-bodied, with masses of fruit, yet reserved and structured. Mouthpuckering now from all the tannins, but this will give incredible pleasure in years to come. Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Cabernet Franc. Best after 2014. 6,250 cases made.Wine Spectator | 97 WSThis fourth flight brings us into what I consider a real Golden Era for Solaia that started with the 2004. A young, potent wine, the 2006 Solaia out of magnum still needs quite a bit of time. Even so, its towering stature is evident. A rush of blackberry jam, grilled herbs, espresso, licorice and spice builds as the 2006 shows off its explosive energy and drive.Vinous Media | 96 VMA clarity and brilliance to this Solaia now with plums, light chocolate and meat. Full body and round and soft tannins. Juicy and delicious. Just right now where it shows the fruit and light tertiary qualities on the nose and palate. Excellent.James Suckling | 95 JSMostly Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese (with a small touch of Cabernet Franc), Solaia’s winning card is texture. The wine is soft, velvety and penetrating in the mouth with succulent flavors of blackberry, creamy cassis berry, chocolate and tobacco. Thick extraction and quality fruit craft a memorable wine that will last many long and happy years in your cellar.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEThe estate’s 2006 Solaia is a big, powerful offering loaded with ripe blackberry jam, herbs, minerals and French oak. Like all of the 2006s from Antinori, the Solaia remains extraordinarily dense and primary. Readers will have to be patient with this wine and give it plenty of bottle age before the full range of its aromas and nuances blossom fully. Solaia is 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Sangiovese and 5% Cabernet Franc. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2026.Robert Parker | 94 RP

This is an elegant Nebbiolo-based wine and arguably the most feminine of Gaja's newest releases. There's extreme balance and sophistication evident in the focused aromas of wild berry, white licorice, pressed violets and polished stone. The mouthfeel is tight, firm and those tannins need at least 10 more years to soften in your cellar. Beautiful.Wine Enthusiast | 99 WEThe 2007 Langhe Sorì Tildìn opens with a huge, kaleidoscopic bouquet that immediately draws me in. A remarkably vivid wine, the sensual Sorì Tildìn caresses the palate with silky, textured fruit, showing incredible power, length and class. There is a transparency to the wine that is beguiling. Once again, the finish is eternal. Sorì Tildìn is one of Gaja's more nuanced wines, and in 2007 it is breathtakingly beautiful.Antonio Galloni | 97 AGVery, very fresh and floral with peaches, ripe strawberries and plums. So aromatic and clear. Full-bodied, with powerful tannins and a cocoa, chocolate aftertaste. Gorgeous and sturdy. Needs time. Better after 2016.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2007 Langhe Sori Tildin opens with a huge, kaleidoscopic bouquet that immediately draws me in. A remarkably vivid wine, the sensual Sori Tildin caresses the palate with silky, textured fruit, showing incredible power, length and class. There is a transparency to the wine that is beguiling. Once again, the finish is eternal. Sori Tildin is one of Gaja’s more nuanced wines, and in 2007 it is breathtakingly beautiful. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2037My most recent visit to Gaja was quite an experience, as I tasted all of the estate’s 1989s, 1990s and 2007s. The 1989s and 1990s are reviewed in this issue’s What About Now feature. Angelo Gaja, always loquacious on a wide range of subjects, says virtually nothing about his wines, an approach I have increasingly come to appreciate in an era where so many producers are constantly in pitch mode. Then again, Gaja doesn’t really need to say anything, the wines speak for themselves. I tasted the 2007s at the winery in November 2009 and then again in New York in January 2010. Both times they were spectacular. Stylistically the 2007s remind me of the 1997s in terms of their opulence. Gaja’s wines are often immensely appealing when young – which is certainly the case with the 2007s – but then close down in bottle for a number of years, sometimes many years. My impression is that the Costa Russi and Conteisa are the most likely of these 2007s to offer the widest drinking windows throughout their lives with a minimum of cellaring. Fermentation and malolactic fermentation take place in steel. The wines then spend approximately one year in French oak and a second year in cask prior to being bottled. As has been the case for a number of years now, Gaja’s Langhe wines incorporate a small percentage of Barbera. On a final note, it’s great to see Gaja’s daughters Gaia and Rossana increasingly involved in the winery. They, and their younger brother Giovanni, have big shoes to fill, but couldn’t have asked for better teachers than Angelo and Lucia Gaja.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPToast and spice aromas lead off in this warm, expansive red, which quickly evokes black cherry, plum, floral and spice flavors, all allied to the silky texture and precision structure. Rich fruit and spice flavors echo on the finish. Best from 2014 through 2032. 80 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

Blueberry and lemon aromas follow through to a full body, with firm and racy tannins and a delicate finish. This is refined and polished. Drink after 2013.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2007 Langhe Conteisa is impeccably ripe and silky on the palate, with expressive La Morra red fruits, flowers, mint and spices that emerge from the glass. This is another soft, seamless wine from Gaja, with gorgeous purity in the fruit that carries through all the way to the deeply satisfying, creamy finish. The tannins remain impeccably refined and beautifully balanced with the fruit. The wine is likely to firm up a touch in bottle, but it should be one of the most accessible of Gaja’s 2007s. The 2007 is easily among the finest Conteisas ever made. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027.My most recent visit to Gaja was quite an experience, as I tasted all of the estate’s 1989s, 1990s and 2007s. The 1989s and 1990s are reviewed in this issue’s What About Now feature. Angelo Gaja, always loquacious on a wide range of subjects, says virtually nothing about his wines, an approach I have increasingly come to appreciate in an era where so many producers are constantly in pitch mode. Then again, Gaja doesn’t really need to say anything, the wines speak for themselves. I tasted the 2007s at the winery in November 2009 and then again in New York in January 2010. Both times they were spectacular. Stylistically the 2007s remind me of the 1997s in terms of their opulence. Gaja’s wines are often immensely appealing when young – which is certainly the case with the 2007s – but then close down in bottle for a number of years, sometimes many years. My impression is that the Costa Russi and Conteisa are the most likely of these 2007s to offer the widest drinking windows throughout their lives with a minimum of cellaring. Fermentation and malolactic fermentation take place in steel. The wines then spend approximately one year in French oak and a second year in cask prior to being bottled. As has been the case for a number of years now, Gaja’s Langhe wines incorporate a small percentage of Barbera. On a final note, it’s great to see Gaja’s daughters Gaia and Rossana increasingly involved in the winery. They, and their younger brother Giovanni, have big shoes to fill, but couldn’t have asked for better teachers than Angelo and Lucia Gaja.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPFull medium red. Rather unforthcoming but mellow aromas of plum, mocha and licorice. Silky on entry, then more tightly wound toward the back in spite of its plush, layered texture. Lovely raspberry, spice and underbrush flavors blast through the building, granular tannins on the long aftertaste.Vinous Media | 94 VM

The 2007 Montevetrano is the product of an unusual vintage characterized by hot temperatures that were virtually uninterrupted throughout the year. Bright red fruit, flowers and spices are some of the nuances that emerge from this silky, beautifully balanced Montevetrano. The combination of explosive ripe fruit, richness and finesse are utterly breathtaking. The warmth of the vintage comes through in the wine’s generosity, yet there are no suggestions whatsoever of over- ripeness. This is a magnificent Montevetrano.Antonio Galloni | 95 AGThe 2007 Montevetrano suggests a more prominent presence of Cabernet Sauvignon, aromatically speaking, compared to the other wines in this mini retrospective. The percentage of grapes used is the same but this impression is reinforced by the warmth of the summer growing season and the exuberance of the fruit. Blackberry aromas are followed by spice, leather and tar. There are subtle notes of balsam herb and green peppercorn as well. The wine is structured and firm but not astringent. The tannins are softly integrated and fine in texture.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94+ RPDark and sappy, with tightly wound layers of black currant, blackberry and plum skin. Hints of underbrush, ash and smoke are framed by firm tannins, which need time to resolve. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Aglianico. Best from 2013 through 2021.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

The 2007 Sassicaia (Cabernet Sauvignon) explodes onto the palate with masses of rich, opulent fruit that caress the palate with gorgeous length and a seamless beauty that is hard to fully capture. Dark wild cherries, plums, spices, minerals and herbs develop in the glass. This is an especially bold, perhaps slightly uncharacteristic Sassicaia in its extroverted personality, but it is beautiful all the same. The inner perfume and sweetness carries through the long finish, where the sheer weight and glycerol of the fruit leaves a lasting impression. The 2007 is more than a worthy follow-up to the profound 2006. While it may lack that wine’s freshness, structure and potential longevity, the 2007 is immensely appealing today, and should drink beautifully pretty much out of the gate. That said, Sassicaia is always the most restrained of Bolgheri’s heavy hitters. This is a superb effort from Tenuta San Guido.Antonio Galloni | 95 AGThis iconic Italian wine from Bolgheri’s landmark Sassicaia vineyard (characterized by little rocks, or “sassi”) offers an elegant bouquet comprised in equal measure by mineral, fruit and spice nuances. The wine consists of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc and the finish is long, smooth and very fine. This is an ageworthy wine that should not be opened before 2018.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEHere’s a wine of power, determination and confidence—as far as first impressions go. The 2007 Bolgheri Sassicaia leaves little hidden behind the curtain. It presents a frank and straightforward array of bold fruit, spice, leather and tobacco-like aromas that emerge from the bouquet with energy and force. The aromas are complete and genuine. The palate, however, offers more space for interpretation and review. It is finessed and nuanced, thus requiring more time to fully comprehend and appreciate. Silky tannins are followed by fine textural smoothness and a long finish. The outgoing nature of the aromas make for a fascinating contrast against the inward and reticent nature of the mouthfeel.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPVery enticing aromas of spices, meat and berries. Full-bodied and juicy, soft and velvety, with a long, succulent finish. Best after 2011. 20,000 cases made, 3,000 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSThis is classy on the nose with subtle currant, sweet tobacco, cigar box and dried flowers. Cassis too. Full body, with refined tannins and a solid core of fruit. Polished and very pretty. Long and delicious already. But you have to wait on this. It has so much more to give. Try after 2015.James Suckling | 93 JSThere’s tension in this vintage of Sassicaia, its rich, generous fruit held within a tight, lean structure. Fresh scents of flowers and herbs come up from under the ripe fruit, tamped down again by a meaty smokiness that hints at Brett. Youthful and inaccessible, this gains clarity with air, as it will in the cellar. One of Italy’s most sought-after collectibles, this is suited to aging ten years or more. Kobrand, Purchase, NYWine & Spirits | 92 W&SA splash of sweet strawberry purée just slightly indicating the age of this wine, and it is a vintage that is already drinking well. Beautiful, dancing acidity and some attractive red fruits. But it doesn’t have the full complexity of the 2008 vintage. It has a complex array of tertiary aromatics and flavours, with full leather and soft black truffle. Gentle, with softly lingering flavours.Decanter | 91 DEC

The 2008 Sori Tildin is impressive. I confess I wasn't quite prepared for the assault of fruit and tannins here. Sori Tildin is so often a graceful, elegant wine, but that is not the case in 2008. That's not to say elegance is missing, but this is a big, big wine with tons of intensity and richness, all woven together beautifully. It's tough to find a comparison with a previous vintage, as this is a pretty singular Tildin. The flavors are familiar if a touch on the dark side, but the structure is closer than that of Sori San Lorenzo. Flowers, tar, leather and licorice wrap around the palate. This is a fabulous showing and a great wine in the making.Antonio Galloni | 96 AGThe 2008 Sori Tildin is impressive. I confess I wasn’t quite prepared for the assault of fruit and tannins here. Sori Tildin is so often a graceful, elegant wine, but that is not the case in 2008. That’s not to say elegance is missing, but this is a big, big wine with tons of intensity and richness, all woven together beautifully. It’s tough to find a comparison with a previous vintage, as this is a singular Tildin. The flavors are familiar if a touch on the dark side, but the structure is closer than that of Sori San Lorenzo. Flowers, tar, leather and licorice wrap around the palate. This is a fabulous showing and a great wine in the making. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2033.This is a stunning set of wines from Angelo Gaja and his team in Barbaresco. Those who think 2008 is a truly great year for Nebbiolo must have tasted these wines. In a vintage that is inconsistent across the villages of Barbaresco, Gaja has produced not one but four stellar wines. As fabulous as these wines are, they aren’t especially true to type, as I explain in these notes. The 2008s I tasted in the US showed far better than the bottles I tasted in Barbaresco during the summer. Perhaps the onset of the cool fall weather gave these wines a little more spine than they had during the sweltering heat of August. Readers who want to learn more about the 2011 harvest at Gaja may want to take a look at my video interview with Gaia Gaja and vineyard manager Giorgio Culasso.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPEspresso, plum, black cherry and toast aromas and flavors mark this powerful, muscular red, which is angular and out of sorts today, but dense and grainy, with a firm, tannic structure. The oak dominates the finish, so give this time. Best from 2015 through 2032. 150 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

This is a ripe red with raisin and spice aromas plus hints of mushroom and wet earth. Full body and very ripe fruit with spicy undertones. Chewy yet round, caressing tannins. This is very powerful for the vintage. Needs until 2016 to show its quality.James Suckling | 97 JSAlso tasted in a magnum, the 2008 Barolo Riserva Vecchie Viti dei Capalot e delle Brunate is an extraordinary wine that delivers warm tones of baked brick, moist earth, white truffle and autumnal leaf. The wine opens with an inky dark appearance and shows solid structure at the back. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2030.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RP(bottled in magnums): Good bright, deep red. Wonderfully delicate aromas of redcurrant, cherry, mocha, flowers and tobacco. Silky on entry, then suave and fine-grained in the middle, showing a remarkably primary character to its red fruit and spice flavors. This impeccably balanced, elegant Barolo finishes with noble tannins and great subtle, mounting persistence. A great vintage for this bottling.Vinous Media | 95 VMElegant and pretty, with ample flesh to the cherry, licorice and spice flavors. The refined tannins reveal themselves on the finish, which is long and spicy. Fine harmony. Best from 2015 through 2028. 400 cases made. — BSWine Spectator | 92 WS

The 2009 Conteisa sees fruit harvested from the Cerequio cru in La Morra and is one of two “Barolo-inspired” wines made by the Gaja family. A small percentage of Barbera is added to the blend. Very expressive of the cru, Conteisa opens with a beautifully floral footprint of pressed rose and blue violets followed by bright cherry, cassis, chopped mint, licorice, tar, ginger and delicately smoked cedar. Again, the complexity is mind-blowing. The wine glides effortlessly over the palate, but make no mistake, that tight, tannic austerity kicks in at the back. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2040.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPPlentiful red fruits here with hints of toffee and dried flowers on the nose. Full-bodied and tannic with chocolate and orange peel on the palate. Flavourful finish. Try after 2016.James Suckling | 95 JSElegant, vibrant and beautifully balanced, this features cherry and raspberry fruit aligned with a firm, harmonious structure. Licorice, tar and spice notes chime in, with a lingering finish of cherry, tobacco and menthol. Shows great energy and drive. Best from 2016 through 2030. 625 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WSGood medium red. Explosive aromas of redcurrant, red cherry, violet and licorice. Wonderfully silky and fat on the palate, with highly concentrated, pliant red fruit flavors that don't quite show the delicate herbal and floral high notes of the 2010. But this big, broad, plush 2009 boasts an element of finesse to its tannins that's rare for the vintage.Vinous Media | 94 VM

It started in 1993, with 3ha of vineyards; now Buglioni has 54ha. This riserva is made only in the best vintages, with the best hand-picked grapes. Aged for 30 months in tonneaux, it has tertiary notes of balsam, dry leaves, sweet tobacco and jam. Bramble fruits and summer-fruit pudding surround the taste buds. Intense, elegant and poised, with great length and huge structure. Try it with bitter chocolate or enjoy it on its own. Drinking Window 2022 - 2030.Decanter | 96 DECInviting aromas of ripe dark-skinned berry, new leather, cocoa and forest floor emerge from the glass. The concentrated palate doles out black currant jam, licorice, black pepper and tobacco alongside fine-grained tannins. Drink 2019–2027.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WESome 3,570 bottles were made and each one is numbered. In some parts of the Valpolicella, 2010 was considered a difficult vintage, but not here. The 2010 Amarene della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Teste Dure is extracted, inky and soft. The wine is showing some maturity and evolution, with licorice and tar behind primary notes of dried blackberry, plum and raisin. I would suggest a slightly reduced drinking window as a result, maybe pairing it alongside lamb with balsamic reduction. The next time this Riserva was made was 2015, and the folks at Buglioni have been experimenting with whole-cluster fermentations and amphorae aging too. So far, they are happy with the results, so we will surely see these methods used in upcoming releases.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RPIntense soy-sauce and cooked-plum nose that won’t be for everyone, but on the palate this is rich and silky. Good length. Drink now with mature hard cheeses.James Suckling | 91 JS

The 2010 Conteisa is a stunner with all the overwhelming elegance that is inherent to this vintage. It opens steadily to reveal red flower, cassis, baking spice, anisette and tobacco. The aromas are expressive and deep with enduring richness. The tannins are slightly sweet and already soft. This is a collectors’ choice. Drink: 2018-2040.I have some happy news to report from the exciting world of Angelo Gaja. The estate that was notoriously difficult (if not impossible) to visit for those outside the wine trade is now opening its doors to the public. There is a steep entrance fee, but the scheme makes perfect sense in my option. Any wine lover can make an appointment to tour the estate and sample wine for up to 300 euros a person. The money must be paid to charity as none of the proceeds go to Gaja. If you have a favorite non-profit organization, make a donation in that amount. Once you send receipt of payment to Gaja’s tasting room staff, your visit will be granted. It sounds like a fair exchange to me.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPMade with Nebbiolo from Gaja's holdings in the Cerequio vineyard in La Morra, with a touch of Barbera, this combines finesse, structure and depth. It's highly perfumed with rose, balsamic notes, berry and spice that follow through to red cherry, raspberry, white pepper, licorice and mint flavors. It's balanced with polished tannins and closes on a mineral note. Drink 2018–2030.Wine Enthusiast | 97 WEAromas of sliced porcini, dried rose petals and dark fruits such as plums. Full body, chewy and rich with dusty tannins. Juicy finish. Needs time to soften still. Better in 2017.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2010 Conteisa is a wine of extreme finesse. Flowers, sweet red berries, hard candy, mint and licorice all emerge from the glass, supported by silky, polished tannins. Today the 2010 impresses for its fabulous, crystalline purity and striking overall balance. The style is aromatic, lifted and all about elegance. The 2010 has only recently been bottled. I won't be surprised if it is even better in another few years. Conteisa is mostly Nebbiolo with a dollop of Barbera, from the Cerequio vineyard in La Morra.Vinous Media | 95 VMFloral top notes lead to black cherry and strawberry fruit, with flourishes of tobacco, iron and spice. This red is balanced and light- to medium-bodied, showing a terrific texture. Ample tannins leave a dusty feel on the lingering finish. Best from 2018 through 2032. 1,250 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

The 2011 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Ambrosan wafts up extorverted and opulent, with exotic spices and medicinal cherries giving way to mocha and sweet pipe tobacco. This is silky-smooth and soothing, balancing both savory and sweet while coming across as autumnal in character, as rosy inner florals form. There is so much depth and focus here, showing citrus-tinged plum skins with coffee grinds and dark chocolate. This just goes on and on, lightly structured and incredibly long yet balanced. The 2011 Ambrosan is a thrilling wine to taste.Vinous Media | 96 VMVery pretty balance of fruit and tannins with freshness and finesse. Medium-bodied with beautiful, round and polished tannins. Really refined and elegant with lovely length. Drink now.James Suckling | 94 JSCedar, dark-skinned fruit and vanilla aromas form the nose on this hearty red. The chewy palate offers baked plum, coconut and star anise alongside pliant tannins. Drink through 2026.Wine Enthusiast | 91 WE

A bit closed at first, the 2011 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille sees fruit harvested from a five-hectare cru site with galestro limestone soils and all-southern exposures. Despite the initial shyness of the bouquet, this wine ultimately shows a more profound and elegant approach in this warm vintage. It just takes a little longer to get there. The nose offers a full spectrum of fruit, floral and earthy tones that speak so highly of this all-Sangiovese appellation. The wine is smooth and rich in terms of density with beautiful firmness at the back.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPSmoke, earthiness, black cherries, licorice, menthol and dark spices are some of the signatures in the 2011 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille. A dark, brooding wine, the Sugarille boasts tremendous depth and intensity, not to mention tons of character. Deeply spiced, mentholated notes wrap around the polished finish. This is another superb showing from one of the Gaja family’s under the radar gems, if that can be said. In a word: fabulous.Vinous Media | 95 VMA powerful red with chewy tannins and hints of cedar and wood. Full-bodied, tight and tannic. I like the tannin tension. Needs two or three years to soften: Try in 2017.James Suckling | 93 JSAromas of underbrush, scorched earth, French oak and a whiff of new leather lift out of the glass. The powerfully structured palate offers dried black cherry, toast, espresso and dark spice alongside firm fine-grained tannins. It’s still a bit austere so give it a few more years to fully develop. Drink 2020–2025Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE

A luscious red with dried berry, cherry and hints of cedar and tea. Full body, fine and velvety tannins and a long and flavorful finish. This is compacted and tight with great depth. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2012 Colore is on the market now. Production of 2013 and 2014 was skipped, and the next vintage we shall see (very soon) is 2015, which is also reviewed in this report. This vintage produced large berry sizes for Sangiovese—something Bibi Graetz is always happy to see because it is an indicator of elegance and finesse within the context of the house style. If you consider this wine, his observation makes perfect sense. This warm vintage is powerful and rich in its natural state, so any additional berry density might easily lead to overextraction and heaviness. However, the mouthfeel is objectively thinner and more compact in this vintage. Colore represents a blend of Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino in equal parts. The bouquet is redolent of wild berry, dried cherry and toasted spice. This vintage offers a very attractive mineral note as well. Fruit is selected from three of Bibi Graetz’s favorite vineyards with ancient vines: Lamole (in Chianti Classico), Vincigliata and Siena. Only 5,000 bottles were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPMuscular and concentrated, yet with a sense of elegance derived from vibrant acidity, this red displays black cherry, blackberry, leather, iron and tobacco flavors. Consistent from the start to the long finish. Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino. Best from 2020 through 2028. 100 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSA tricky year with a very hot dry summer that resulted in low yields, but also marked by a wet September. The sour-cherry nose is fresh and lively. It’s medium-bodied but still quite concentrated, and while no blockbuster, it has density. It lacks some flesh and weight of fruit, resulting in a somewhat hollow mid-palate, but it’s attractive and already drinking well. Drinking Window 2021 - 2026.Decanter | 90 DEC

This is a terrific wine that absolutely stands out in a crowd. The 2013 Barolo Riserva Bussia Cascina Dardi is a studied and careful Nebbiolo that shows delightful intensity, with precision, balance and sharpness, and an equally generous mouthfeel. That clarity of aromas is impressive. You get wild berry, pressed rose, black licorice and polished river stone. This wine ages in oak for 48 months. With only 6,000 bottles made, this wine is worth seeking out.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2013 Barolo Bussia Cascina Dardi is a super-appealing, old-school Barolo that is going to require a number of years to be at its best. Deceptively medium in body, the 2013 possesses quite a bit of aromatic nuance and depth, but at present the tannins dominate. Scents of dried herbs, tobacco, leather and licorice open up over time, but only gradually. Readers should be prepared to be patient.Vinous Media | 93 VMThis wine’s delicate, translucent cherry color belies its dark fruit flavors and powerful, meaty tannins. Notes of mint, dried fennel and green peppercorn brighten the baked cherry flavors, resonating on the slightly warm finish.Wine & Spirits | 93 W&S

Lots of beautiful aromas of strawberries, cherries, oranges and white chocolate follow through to a full body with a fantastic, dense and chewy mouth feel and a long finish. So precise. Starting drinking in 2022.James Suckling | 96 JSThe 2013 Barolo Conteisa is now officially a DOCG wine following years as a Langhe Nebbiolo or IGT wine. The first vintage was 1996 and fruit is sourced from the Cerequio cru in La Morra. This is a classic and coherent expression that is characterized by crunchy fruit flavors and sweet tannins. Fruit came into the winery at very low temperatures and saw slow fermentations. Generally speaking, the 2013 vintage is characterized by slow ripening and a long growing season (unlike 2012 that saw more concentrated heat). This is a balanced and homogenous wine with a softly caressing nature. It offers aromas of citrus, summer fruit and even a touch of watermelon pulp. This wine is usually considered the more immediate of Gaja’s two new Barolo wines, yet this vintage surely needs extra time to evolve.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2013 Barolo Conteisa (which is the first year it’s been classified as a Barolo) is another beautiful, elegant 2013 that has loads of charm. Black cherries, framboise, tobacco, and smoked earth characteristics all emerge from this medium to full-bodied, silky effort that has ripe - even sweet - tannin, no hard edges, and beautiful purity of fruit. It’s far from inaccessible but will be better in 2-3 years and keep for two decades.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDThe 2013 Conteisa is unusually dark and virile in this vintage. Black cherry, smoke, licorice, leather and melted road tar give the Conteisa much of its dark, brooding personality. That impression is reinforced by the wine’s imposing tannic structure and overall feel. Conteisa is typically a wine more of finesse than power, but the 2013 vintage seems to have pulled out a more virile expression of this site. I suspect the 2013 is going to need a good few years in the cellar, perhaps more, to be at its very best.Vinous Media | 94 VMStar anise, pressed rose petal, aromatic herb and camphor are just some of the aromas you’ll find on this taut, polished red. The firmly structured, elegant palate delivers sour cherry, pomegranate, licorice and ground clove set against a backbone of fine-grained tannins. It’s young but balanced, with bright acidity. Give it time to reach its full potential. Drink 2021–2033. Kerin O’Keefe | 94 KOStar anise, pressed rose petal, aromatic herb and camphor are just some of the aromas you’ll find on this taut, polished red. The firmly structured, elegant palate delivers sour cherry, pomegranate, licorice and ground clove set against a backbone of fine-grained tannins. It’s young but balanced, with bright acidity. Give it time to reach its full potential. Drink 2021–2033.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEDensely woven with flavors of cherry, plum, earth and spice, this red starts out very tightly wrapped, relaxing and gaining richness with air. A touch dry on the finish, but overall balanced. Decant at least 3 hours now, or better yet, age another 5 years. Best from 2022 through 2038. 200 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS