Red Wines

wines

(Château Haut-Brion (Graves)) The 1970 vintage of Haut-Brion is an interesting wine, as in the 1980s and early 1990s, this wine was quite red fruity and seemingly a bit high-toned to be ranked amongst the top vintages of this fine First Growth. But time has worked its magic, and in the new century it became more classically black fruity in profile and seemingly put on a bit more weight in the mid-palate, to eventually offer up a quite classic bouquet of cassis, black cherries, brick dust, cigar smoke and a fine base of gravelly soil tones. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and quite elegant in profile (channeling both the style of the vintage and the property), with a good core, melted tannins and a long, silky and complex finish. Fine juice. (Drink between 2017-2030).John Gilman | 93 JGThe 1970 Château Haut-Brion is a First Growth that has probably been over-shadowed by the Latour 1970 during its lifetime. However, this bottle proves that it is not to be underestimated; it highlights the glaring gap that exists between itself and another First Growth, the 1970 Château Margaux that I tasted alongside. There is plenty of vigor on the nose with dashing red berry fruit, cedar and black olive - just very Haut-Brion.The palate is medium-bodied, well balanced and fresh, nothing over-ambitious, just a Claret in the traditional sense of the word that gently builds towards a sous-bois dominated finish. This is an excellent showing, stout and a little austere, and you could argue an Haut-Brion with its peak in its wing-mirrors. Yet good bottles such as this will continue to offer pleasure for another decade. Tasted June 2015.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 92 RP-NMVery firm, with ripe plum and currant notes coming through its chewy texture, finishing with woodsy, bitter chocolate overtones. A sturdy wine that keeps threatening to become supple.--Haut-Brion vertical.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

No written review provided | 90 WS

Aromas of coffee, meat and plums follow through to a full body, with silky tannins and chocolaty finish. Very delicious. Even better than I remember.—'88/'98 Bordeaux blind retrospective (2008). Drink now. 9,165 cases made.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

Not a great vintage (very hot August, rain in the last half of September), but the Merlot was luscious and wines made from the best plots of Cabernet were very rich. Perfectly evolved, the wine is now silky textured, showing smoky notes of coffee, tobacco and cocoa. Drinking Window 2019 - 2035.Decanter | 92 DECNo written review provided | 92 W&SA classic effort, the 1998 Montrose exhibits a dense purple color in addition to a sweet nose of jammy cassis, licorice, earth, and smoke. It is a powerful and full-bodied wine with well-integrated tannin. Given Montrose’s tendency to shut down, it is performing better out of bottle than I expected. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2030.Robert Parker | 90 RPThe 1998 Montrose was the only recent vintage that was omitted from the series of verticals that I conducted in 2016. It is a blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc and 8% Petit Verdot picked between 22 September and 6 October. Funnily enough, I had not tasted it since en primeur! It has a high-toned and expressive bouquet with blackberry, leather, a touch of menthol and dried herbs, a little earthiness coming through with time. There is still plenty of freshness here. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin. This offers fine balance and a smooth texture, slightly lactic in texture with tobacco and even a touch of latte towards the black fruit-driven finish. There is almost a case for this Montrose being too melted in character. Fine, but I think it could have been better. Tasted at the château.Vinous Media | 90 VM

Under the management of Céline Villars-Foubet, and the same ownership as Châteaux Ferrière and La Gurgue, this is always one of the most popular estates in the Médoc. This 2002 shows why, with its ripe, open fruit and sweet tannins. It should develop well over 5–10 years, but will be drinkable sooner.Wine Enthusiast | 90 WE

Bright aromas of blackberries, cherries, currants and toasted oak follow through to a full-bodied palate, with chewy tannins. Long and silky. Racy. Best after 2009.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

The saturated ruby/plum-tinged 2002 reveals a tight but promising nose of underbrush, new saddle leather, damp earth, black currants and cherries. It is a strongly structured, potent effort with medium to full body, and impressive purity, but loads of tannin presented in a frightfully backward style. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. I seem to consistently underrate this wine when it is young.Robert Parker | 90 RPBeautiful aromas of licorice, currants and berries follow through to a medium- to full-bodied palate, with silky tannins and a seductive finish. Well-crafted. Not overdone. I like this slightly better than the Léoville Barton. Best after 2007. 5,665 cases made.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

This starts off well, with a cassis fruit expression and some clear lift, however it slides through the mid-palate rather than expanding in the mouth. It’s fairly subdued, the clear tannins still in play with some hints of softening fruits and fallen leaves, but it fades on the finish. Aged in 50% new oak. Drinking Window 2018 - 2025Decanter | 90 DEC

New wood and high extraction are the dominant characteristics of this wine. That makes it in a modern, polished style, which will certainly evolve well, eventually arriving at something that is big and bold. Give it 4–5 years for that.Wine Enthusiast | 91 WEPossessing the finest aromatics of all the 2004 St.-Juliens, Branaire Ducru offers complex licorice, cranberry, boysenberry, and floral notes interwoven with notions of plums and figs. This dark ruby/purple-tinged, medium-bodied, elegant effort offers sweet fruit as well as ripe tannins. Give it 1-3 years of bottle age and drink it over the following 14 -15.Robert Parker | 90 RPDark red with a hint of amber at the rim. Enticing nose offers delicate red fruit aromas complicated by perfumed flowers and sweet spices. Bright and fresh in the mouth, with peppery red cherry, chocolate mint and mineral elements. Finishes a little simple, but with bright acidity nicely extending the intense violet and rose notes at the back. This is hardly a blockbuster, but I love its balance and perfumed personality. Great food wine.Vinous Media | 90 VM

The wine shows the power typical of a Lafite but within the context of the fruity 2011 vintage. The immensely dense tannic structure gives the wine a solid feel that is lifted by so much ripe black currant and berry fruits. At the back, the wine has a more brooding, dark character that suggests great aging potential. Drink this wine from 2019.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEDeveloping into classical Lafite - meaning the frame comes from fine tannins, and the overall impression is of subtle complexity, still extremely young but with energy and lift. A gentle cedar smoke and liquorice edging becomes clear as it opens up, and the black fruits are savoury. The St-Estephe plot was hailed on in early September, but the fruit was already relatively ripe, so even though they harvested 15 days earlier than ideal, it was ripe enough to use in the Grand Vin, and the overall yield was 52hl/ha. Higher Merlot in the blend than you would find today (now closer to 10%). Drinking Window 2024 - 2045.Decanter | 95 DECLove the nose on this, with sweet tobacco, delicate currant, cedar and blackberry. Full body with integrated tannins and a juicy, fruity, subtle finish. The texture to this wine is beautiful. Better than I remember from barrel. Try in 2019.James Suckling | 94 JSThis delivers pronounced tobacco and bay leaf notes up front, with a core of steeped plum and currant fruit and a fleshy edge through the charcoal-lined finish. There’s some serious buried minerality, which should emerge with cellaring. Best from 2018 through 2031.Wine Spectator | 94 WSA blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot (harvested between September 3-21), the 2011 Lafite Rothschild came in at 12.6% natural alcohol (considerably lower than in 2010 and 2009). Exhibiting a deep ruby/purple color, lots of crushed rock, red and black currant, forest floor and underbrush characteristics, moderate tannin and medium body, it is built somewhat along the lines of the 1999 and 2001. It should be a 20- to 25-year wine, but it is not at the level of the 2008, 2009 and 2010. Fresh acids give the wine a somewhat more clipped feeling than most great Lafites have exhibited. Nevertheless, there is a lot of freshness and vibrancy to this vintage.Robert Parker | 90-93 RP(Château Lafite Rothschild) The 2011 Lafite Rothschild is a pretty good example of the vintage, but it is a bit lean by the contemporary high standards of this estate. The nose is deep, dark and quite reserved in its aromatic mélange of cassis, dark chocolate, dark berries, gravel, cigar smoke, fresh sage and a well-gauged base of cedary oak. On the palate the wine is fullish, closed and quite tannic, with a pretty good core of fruit, plenty of touch tannins and very good length and grip on the well-balanced finish. If this can put on weight in the mid-palate during the course of its evolution in barrel and bottle, then it will land at the high end of my projected range. It is not a great Lafite by any stretch of the imagination, but it could end up being a very good bottle in twelve to twenty years’ time. (Drink between 2025-2075).John Gilman | 89-92+ JGThe 2011 Lafite-Rothschild was impressive from barrel. It is very composed on the nose with brambly red fruit, loam, touches of sous-bois (decayed autumn leaves). After five minutes, there is a noticeable liquorice scent. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannins, a little soft in the middle with a fleshy tarry, liquorice-infused finish that just tapers away. Elegant, refined, but not the First Growth’s strongest effort from this period. Tasted blind at the annual 10-Year-On tasting..Vinous Media | 91 VM