Refreshing Whites

wines

The 2017 Cargol Treu Vi definitely has something in common with the 2017 Principia Mathematica—the two vineyards are very close together, and the year seems to have marked them. 2017 was a very warm and early harvest, and the wines are a little softer and rounder. But there is a vibrant sensation here that I didn’t see in the Principia. This is livelier and has a tasty finish and an almost salty touch. 1,900 bottles were filled in August 2018 after approximately one year in barrique.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

Diaphanous yellow-gold. Ripe melon, white peach, pineapple and floral scents on the fragrant nose; a suggestion of honey builds in the glass. Juicy, well-concentrated and seamless in texture, offering sweet tropical and pit fruit flavors that show unlikely litheness for their depth. Finishes juicy and gently viscous, with a lingering tropical fruit note and strong persistence.Vinous Media | 94 VMI always love this wine and the 2017 Victoria #2 doesn’t disappoint. A sweet, dessert style wine that stays light on its feet and elegant, it has a beautiful nose of honeyed peach, lychee, orange marmalade, lavender, and other exotic, floral nuances. This carries to a medium to full-bodied, seamless white with good balance between its sweetness and acidity, remarkable purity, and a great finish.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDBright and juicy, this white balances sweet and tart in a lively mix. Peach, orange blossom, honey and spice flavors mingle over citrusy acidity. Refreshing. Drink now. 1,500 cases made, 450 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 90 WSA fresh, lightly fruity white from moscatel with sweet pear and honey aromas and flavors. Medium-bodied. Tangy, off-dry and easy. Drink now.James Suckling | 90 JS

Even if already sold out, I also tasted the white 2020 Cullerot because it’s probably their finest vintage for this wine. The nose is very expressive, with notes of flowers, talcum powder, fennel and aniseed, pollen and herbs, with a soft texture combining volume with freshness in a year when the grapes ripened properly. It’s been settled by some time in bottle and feels very harmonious and ready. It has 13.2% alcohol with a pH of 3.23 (the white does not go through malolactic) and feels very balanced, tasty and supple. 40,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in February 2021.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92+ RP(Cullerot Blanco- Celler del Roure) Celler del Roure is blessed with ancient cellars carved into the bedrock below the winery, where past generations fermented and aged the wines in amphorae dug into the stone. They were not used for several decades, but recently the winery decided it would be interesting to see how these amphora wines would taste and started to produce a lineup of bottlings made from these ancient vessels. The Cullerot Blanco bottling is composed of a blend that includes Pedro Ximénez, Macabeo and Malvasia, among other varieties co-planted in the vineyards. The wine starts out fermentation in stainless steel tanks and then is transferred to the amphorae embedded in the rock for six months of aging. The 2020 Cullerot comes in at thirteen percent alcohol and offers up a complex nose of tart orange, breadfruit, lemongrass, lovely soil tones, citrus peel and a touch of honeysuckle in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, nicely ripe and complex, with a fine core, excellent soil signature, zesty acids and a long, complex and very well balanced finish. This is most impressive! (Drink between 2022 - 2028)John Gilman | 92 JG

The white 2021 Cargol Treu Vi has notes of pollen and yellow fruit with some browning apples. It has contained ripeness and 12.4% alcohol with a very low pH and high-ish acidity but comes through as more evolved and somewhat riper than the phenomenal Principia Mathematica form this same vintage. It has pungent flavors and a medium-bodied palate, with some spice from aging in 300-liter barrels for 10 to 11 months. 2,100 bottles were filled in August 2022.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

The very young white 2021 Blanco de Sierra de Toloño is mostly Viura with some Calagraño and Rojal that is pure, fresh and straightforward, with a floral touch and a tasty finish from what Sandra Bravo described as "the finest vintage of my life." The grapes ripened late, at the same time as the old-vine Tempranillo. It has 12.5% alcohol and a pH of 3.23, medium-bodied, fresh, vibrant and tasty. Great value. 9,000 bottles were filled in March 2022 after resting in tank with lees.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RP

The varietal white 2021 Garnacha Blanca, from one of their favorite vintages, was picked early to produce the fresh profile they like, with 12.9% alcohol, a pH of 3.15 and 6.55 grams of acidity. They used grapes from the village of Fitero to ferment the must in stainless with indigenous yeasts. The wine matured mostly in concrete, a 2,000-liter Stockinger foudre and five new 500-liter French oak barrels. It’s fresh, floral and elegant, with purity and balance, a spicy touch from the wood. It has a very tasty finish and even a salty twist, super fresh with lots of finesse. It has volume and freshness, the vibrancy from an early harvest and the contained ripeness and alcohol. This is the style they wanted for this wine and took the time to find it; it’s more Burgundian than Mediterranean, to me. It should age nicely in bottle. And a bargain. 19,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in November 2022.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

The varietal Albariño 2022 X, which contains some 5% Treixadura, was produced with grapes from schist and granite soils. It has a nose of dry herbs and a Mediterranean feeling to it, perhaps from the warmer year. The palate has depth and personality, nice texture and a long aftertaste. 7,000 bottles were produced. It was bottled in May 2023.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92+ RPRicardo Carreiro’s Gomariz X bottling is made from a blend of ninety-five percent Albariño and five percent Treixadura. The wine is deep and complex, offering up a fine bouquet of tart orange, limepeel, a touch of menthol, stony minerality, dried flowers and a touch of lemongrass in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, focused and complex, with a rock solid core of fruit, fine mineral undertow and grip, a lovely spine of acidity and a long, well balanced and vibrant finish. In Ribeiro, blends of Albariño and Treixadura are usually weighted in the Treixadura direction, with Albariño playing a supporting role in the cuvée. It is fascinating to taste and example where the inverse is true. This is a lovely bottle. (Drink between 2024 - 2032)John Gilman | 92 JG

Aromas of ripe summer peach, lemon zest, wet river rocks and honeysuckle waft from the glass. This wine is full in the mouth and has brilliant acidity. It offers flavors of orange marmalade, peach pie, lemon, and dried herbs de Provence. Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEThe white fruit has a nervy minerality with green apple aromas and seashell chalkiness. Nicely saline on the palate with a medium body and a bone-dry, tangy finish with some seashells and peaches. Vegan. Drink now.James Suckling | 92 JS

The 2022 Malvasia Volcánica from Bermejo is a fine, fine follow-up to the excellent 2021 version. The bouquet wafts from the glass in a vibrant and complex blend of tangerine, peach, lime blossoms, a lovely base of volcanic minerality, a touch of wild fennel and a lovely array of other floral tones in the upper register. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, focused and zesty, with a superb core of fruit, excellent mineral drive and grip, lovely balance and a long, complex and very classy finish. This is superb wine. (Drink between 2023 - 2035)John Gilman | 92+ JG

Pretty peach and honey scents seduce. Really briney with peach juice, lovely richness: a great example of Albariño. Puts you on assured footing of place. The palate is steely – classically so. Lemon purity and salty stoniness are very appetising and tangy. Nominated by Fiona Beckett.Decanter | 93 DECThe 2022 Albariño is from granite soils in the Salnés Valley. It shows varietal character, freshly cut grass, white flowers and fruit and the roundness of the year, with 13.5% alcohol and balancing acidity. This is bottled after four to five months with lees. It has the Señorans signature. 192,000 bottles were produced.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RP

The Tajinaste Blanco Seco is made from a cépages of ninety percent Listán Blanco and ten percent Albillo Criollo. The wine is fermented in tank and most of the cuvée is also aged in stainless steel, but about thirty percent of the blend is given three or four months of élevage in older oak casks. The 2022 version offers up a vibrant nose of lime, tart pear, green olive, lemongrass, salty minerality, raw almond and a topnote of dried flowers. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied, focused and complex, with lovely depth at the core, fine mineral drive and grip, zesty acids and a long, well-balanced and classy finish. This is excellent juice. 2024-2040.     John Gilman | 93 JG