Sangiovese

wines

Here’s a wine I am very excited to taste, given the phenomenal performance of this vintage in the annata version released last year. The Gianni Brunelli Le Chiuse di Sotto 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva reproduces that same brilliant intensity and deep inner brightness, only this Riserva has seen one more year of aging, and it shows more spice and thicker textural heft as a result. This wine is penetrating and layered with a harmonious playlist of red and purple fruits, spice, tar, cola, licorice and grilled herb. The tannins are more austere in the case of this 2,993-bottle release, and you’d do well to age it longer before popping the cork. I love the spontaneous radiance and energy captured by this estate, especially in 2016.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPGianni Brunelli’s Riserva is built from the Olmo vineyard in Montalcino’s southeast. Reaching 500 metres on stony soil, this warm site is the first to be picked by the estate. A small portion of the northeast-facing Le Chiuse di Sotto vineyard is added for freshness and aromatic lift. Heady and inviting, the 2016 presents ripe florals of mint blossom, peony and allspice on a nutty, truffly backdrop. It is iron-edged and succulent on the palate. The tannins are steely yet supple, ultimately clinging gracefully to fresh red cherry and blueberry. Tarragon resounds on the finish. Thrillingly tense.Decanter Magazine | 98 DECSurprisingly, the 2016 Gianni Brunelli Brunello di Montalcino Riserva has a more open, accessible nose than the 2016 Brunello ‘annata’ with layers of citrus fruit, blood orange, blue flowers and red cherry aromas. This is a very complete wine with great depth and concentration of flavor yet without ever being heavy. It wears its concentration so well. There is a great density of silty, chalky tannins on the finish and the wine still feels so young. The texture, weight, harmony, and balance are all terrific! In fact, this wine epitomizes harmony, with a range of dark fruit which is very classical in delivery. Dried orange peel, citrus and bitter herb, Negroni-like aromas and flavors are set like jewels in a velvety texture.The Wine Independent | 98-100 TWIThe deep, sensual 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva wafts up with spice-dusted cherries, sweet herbs and hints of flowery undergrowth. It fills the senses with rich yet tart black raspberries and exotic spice, along with a hint of citrus that sends sparks across the palate, creating a pliant yet nicely chiseled effect. The 2016 tapers off like a black hole of structure, turning quite savory but with a coating of fine tannin that seems to devour the coating of primary fruits beneath it. Masses of tobacco and brown spice linger. The sheer density, amazing minerality and balanced acidity make the 2016 Riserva an extremely exciting wine.Vinous Media | 97+ VMA beefy, muscular style, this red features black cherry, blackberry and plum fruit shaded by earth, iron and spice flavors. Reveals a tangy edge, partly from the bracing acidity, with wild herb and savory notes on the lingering finish. Best from 2026 through 2045. 271 cases made, 50 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSCherries and dried flowers on the nose with some sandalwood. Some chocolate, too. It’s full-bodied, yet tight and compact, with firm and fine tannins and a long, flavorful finish. Racy and savory. Really delicious already, but will repay patience for three or four years.James Suckling | 96 JSFull-bodied and savory, this offers aromas of new leather, camphor, mature dark-skinned fruit and cedar. The firmly structured palate delivers dried Marasca cherry, blood orange, mocha and licorice framed in tightly wound, close-grained tannins. Drink 2028–2036. Kerin O’Keefe | 96 TWIFull-bodied and savory, this offers aromas of new leather, camphor, mature dark-skinned fruit and cedar. The firmly structured palate delivers dried Marasca cherry, blood orange, mocha and licorice framed in tightly wound, close-grained tannins. Drink 2028–2036.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WE

The 2019 Fuligni Brunello Riserva is drop-dead gorgeous. Made with the oldest estate vines, it opens with enticing scents of pine forest, violet, eucalyptus, juniper, new leather and dark exotic spice. Boasting intensity and finesse, the delicious, radiant palate delivers succulent Marasca cherry, crushed raspberry, licorice, black tea and baking spice set against enveloping, velvety tannins. Fresh acidity provides balance and the promise of great longevity. An absolutely thrilling wine. Drink 2029–2049. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 100 KOThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is a seductress, containing an array of cinnamon, clove, allspice, black cherry and hints of bay. It sweeps across the palate with a radiant and classic feel, with vividly ripe red fruits and sweet spices perfectly guided by a core of brilliant acidity. Its minerality comes through in the finish, tactile and saline in form. A web of fine-grained tannins wrap the senses with youthful poise, nuances of cedar and inner rose. The 2019 is spellbinding and built for the cellar. What a beauty.Vinous Media | 97 VMFuligni’s last Riserva was the 2016 vintage, and this 2019 absolutely lives up to the estate’s rigorous standards for bottling only in the best years. Gorgeous aromatics of cherry, florals, wood and some sottobosco emphasise its depth but also its vitality. The vibrant cherry and dark berry flavours are energetic and accomplished, and the intense, bright and long palate favours poise over muscularity. Superb.Decanter Magazine | 97 DECDried-berry, orange-peel and flower aromas follow through to a medium body with ultrafine tannins that blend nicely into the wine, delivering energy and length. Lovely ripe fruit with a juicy and flavorful finish. A classic and wonderfully proportioned young Brunello. Drinkable but better after 2026 and beyond.James Suckling | 97 JSFuligni’s 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva reveals a sultry and savory side with medium-grained tannins and extra textural buffering that surrounds a core of dark blackberry fruit. The alcohol content is high at 15%, but this full-bodied vintage does a very good job of covering up those excesses. This Riserva closes with hints of root beer and sauna wood.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe core of sweet, ripe black cherry, blackberry, tamarind, earth and tar aromas and flavors is swallowed up by a wall of tannins in this wild, muscular red. Will require time to find its balance; however, even at this stage, everything converges on the long, complex finish. Best from 2029 through 2047.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

Aromas of ripe and racy red berry fruit with touches of white pepper, hazelnuts and graphite. Very pure and structured. There’s brightness from lovely acidity and verticality from its tannins, giving it a slightly austere edge. Long, tight finish. This will be better in two to three years.James Suckling | 96 JSThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino is dusty and floral, with an inviting bouquet of dried roses, cedar shavings and crushed black cherries. It is deeply textural, silken and round, with depths of ripe wild berry fruits offset by crunchy mineral tones and brisk acidity. The finish is dramatic, with youthful tension, mixing hints of sour citrus with edgy tannins and a chewy resonance of primary concentration.Vinous Media | 94 VM