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Enjoyed over dinner in Burgundy after tasting many truly lovely wines, this wine could erase your memory of anything else. It is a riveting tour-de-force, with a medium lemon-yellow colour and heady, incredibly forward aromas of ripe orchard and stone fruit with exotic spices, butter, and a bit of oak. There is fresh acidity, plenty of body and extract, and incredible finesse and elegance as well. The combination of youthful fruit, fresh acidity, and robust density carry this wine to an interminable finish.Decanter | 100 DECThe 2014 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is a wine that leaves you lost for words - never helpful in this profession. It begs the question: Why are not all Corton-Charlemagnes like this? It has a stunning bouquet with a profound mix of yellow plum, Mirabelle, Seville orange marmalade, those liquid minerals and later, scents of cold wet limestone. The palate is incredibly powerful with stunning acidity. There are multiple layers of spice-tinged citrus fruit, just a faint tinge of marzipan, wondrous umami sensation in the mouth with grilled walnut and a hint of pralines towards the finish. This represents an astonishing Corton-Charlemagne that might end up touching the imperious 2005. Readers should note that Raphael told me that the release of this will be delayed, just like the 2005 and 2010. Put it on your wish list and wait.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 99 RPThe 2014 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru was the first time I had tasted the wine in bottle after first sampling it at the domaine. It is more open than expected and displays less reduction than the 2005 tasted alongside, offering penetrating citrus peel, lanolin, crushed limestone and fragrant yellow flower scents. The palate is beautifully balanced with razor-sharp acidity and an extraordinarily saline, praline-tinged finish that electrifies the senses. It flirted with perfection in 2016 and it is still within a whisker now. Tasted at Otto’s restaurant in London.Vinous Media | 99 VMA still somewhat reticent nose grudingly speaks of discreet wood, smoky mineral reduction, petrol, green apple, white rose and spice elements. In the same vein as the nose, the dense and well-muscled broad-shouldered flavors are still moderately tightly wound while delivering an abundance of minerality on the massively persistent, highly complex and perfectly well-balanced finish that is quite dry yet not especially austere. This is sufficiently backward at present to need continued cellaring even though with say 30 or so minutes of air in a decanter, it could be approached. With that qualification duly noted, I would strongly advised holding this unicorn of a wine for another 5ish years. In a word, OK, two, absolutely brilliant.Burghound | 98 BH

(this vineyard was planted about a hundred years ago, and features a high percentage of millerandage): Bright, dark red. Very ripe but reticent aromas of black cherry, black raspberry and dark chocolate. Densely packed, very ripe, broad and fine-grained but showing little in the way of easy sweetness in the early going. Like the Chambolle Charmes, this is quite closed today and not yet showing its inherent complexity. But the wine’s richness of material is already clear. Finishes with substantial tannic clout. "Always a blacker, denser wine than the Beaumonts," notes van Canneyt.Vinous Media | 91-94 VMIn contrast to the parcel of Beaumonts that is at the very top of the vineyard, the family’s plot of vines in Suchots are down low in the vineyard, next to the cemetery in the village. Suchots is usually one of the most black fruity premier crus in Vosne-Romanée, but the 2015 from the domaine has plenty of red fruit tones in its superb bouquet of red and black raspberries, lovely Vosne spice tones, black minerality, raw cocoa, a touch of bonfire and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and beautifully pure on the attack, with stunning transparency, a sappy core, fine-grained tannins and a long, complex and very soil-driven finish. This is one of the finest vintages of young Suchots chez Hudelot that I have ever tasted! (Drink between 2025-2065)John Gilman | 94 JGThe 2015 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots (which hails from a parcel planted in 1910) is excellent, opening in the glass with a deep bouquet of cassis, cherry, smoked duck and burnt orange, elegantly framed by a discrete application of new oak. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, silky and ample, with serious depth and dimension, juicy acids and ripe, fine-grained tannins. While its serious structural chassis is nicely cloaked in concentrated fruit, this Suchots will benefit from a good decade of bottle age.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPDiscreet but not invisible wood serves as a relatively neutral backdrop for the exuberantly spicy and again very ripe aromas soy, hoisin, black raspberry, plum and floral scents. The generously proportioned and amply rich medium-bodied flavors brim with dry extract that imparts a sappy mouthfeel to the velvety but firm, serious and youthfully austere finale that makes clear this is going to require extended cellaring. In sum, this is an excellent Suchots. (Drink starting 2030)Burghound | 93 BH

(Domaine Dujac Clos de la Roche Grand Cru Red) This is also relatively restrained with its more deeply pitched and gorgeously complex mélange of liqueur-like dark currant, newly turned earth, game, sandalwood and violet aromas. There is excellent mid-palate concentration present on the muscular and powerful big-bodied flavors that possess impressive focus and persistence on the hugely long, robust and very firmly structured finale. This breathtakingly good effort will also require extended cellaring to resolve the prominent tannic spine. (Drink starting 2035).Burghound | 96 BHDomaine Dujac's 2015 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru is wonderful, one of the stars of the range this year, wafting from the glass with a kaleidoscopically complex bouquet of blackberry, cassis, cinnamon, dried rose, orange peel and pencil lead. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, multidimensional and complete, with a deep core, fine-grained tannins and perfect balance, its finish long and sapid. While this is concentrated—even powerful—it is also beautifully elegant, avoiding the overt muscularity of which this grand cru is capable.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RP(Clos de la Roche- Domaine Dujac) The 2015 Dujac Clos de la Roche is another marvelous synthesis of elegant, sappy fruit and classic soil signature. The gorgeous bouquet soars from the glass in a blaze of red and black plums, cocoa, pigeon, a complex and classy base of soil, woodsmoke, a touch of nutskin and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, sappy at the core and very, very pure and soil-driven at the same time, with seamless, ripe tannins and a very long, nascently complex and refined finish. There is a touch more reserve here than in the 2015 Echézeaux and this will need just a bit more time in the cellar to reach its apogee. (Drink between 2027-2075).John Gilman | 95+ JGVery rich cherry nose but not overblown. Firm attack, very concentrated, taut and rather inexpressive now because of the density and weight of fruit. It has grandeur as well as finesse, and is definitely a wine for the long haul. A classic style, initially severe but with a great deal in reserve. Drinking Window 2020 - 2035.Decanter | 95 DECBright, dark red. Deeper-pitched on the nose than the Echézeaux, offering scents of black raspberry, clove, mocha and dark chocolate. Similarly more soil-driven in the mouth than the 2016 version, but with its thick flavors of earth, spices and saline minerality conveying a light touch for 2015. Finishes sappy, vibrant and long, with thoroughly ripe tannins and echoing minerality.Vinous Media | 94 VM

The 2016 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru has a slightly meaty/feral bouquet, just a hint of gaminess that might become more conspicuous with bottle age. Otherwise I find this well defined and with flattering red cherry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin. There is a fine bead of acidity here, a pleasant fleshy mouthfeel towards the finish and a residual salinity that beckons you back for the next sip. This represents another impressive wine from Charles Van Canneyt. Tasted blind at the 2016 Burgfest tasting.Vinous Media | 95 VMThe 2016 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaumonts has an enticing and yet understated bouquet with Morello cherries, wild strawberry and rose petal scents, quite complex if not intense. There is something almost nonchalant here. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, crisp and focused, the chalkiness of the terroir coming through and lending energy on the long and tensile finish. Excellent.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-94 RPA gorgeous 2016 that readers should snatch up is the 2016 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts, which comes from a vineyard just to the north of Richebourg. It was destemmed and brought up in a mix of new, once-, and twice-used barrels. It shows a ripe, rounded, softer style that still carries plenty of structure, offering beautiful darker fruits, flowery incense, spice, and forest, earthy notes as well as a touch of orange rind. Beautifully textured, medium to full-bodied, and balanced, this gorgeous Vosne- Romanée is ideal for drinking any time over the coming 10-15 years. It’s not one to hide away for two decades, but a few years of bottle age certainly won’t hurt.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDHere the aromatic profile is markedly different with its dense dark berry fruit, tea, spice and violet aromas that are trimmed in just enough wood to notice. Like the Petits Vougeots the positively gorgeous mouthfeel of the medium weight flavors is satiny and delivers outstanding persistence on the balanced and intensely mineral-driven finale. This is sufficiently supple that it could be approached young or held up to a decade first.Burghound | 91-94 BHClear bright fresh purple, fresh and racy fruit, purity and intensity. An interesting mix of different dark fruits, raspberry, blueberry and black cherry. There is good concentration across the palate. I would not have liked to see this picked any later but it works very well as it is, with a touch of salinity at the back. Jasper Morris | 94 JMCharles Van Canneyt’s vines are in the upper part of Beaux Monts where the soils are thinner, so although this is never the most opulent example of this climat, the 2016 is lovely. Aromas of ripe, dark fruits, smoked duck and rich spice precede a cool, medium-full wine, its ample core of cool fruit underpinned by a tense, chalky chassis of tannin.Decanter | 92 DECThe 2016 Beaumonts from Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat is a fine wine in the making. The bouquet delivers a fine, youthful constellation of dark berries, black cherries, bitter chocolate, dark soil tones, venison, woodsmoke and a deft touch of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and already nicely velvety on the attack, with a fine core, lovely soil inflection and a long, ripely tannic and seamless finish. This will be lovely, as it starts to show some fine upper register Vosne spice tones with air. (Drink between 2024 - 2065)John Gilman | 92 JG

(Romanée-St.-Vivant- Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat) The 2017 Romanée-St.-Vivant from Monsieur van Canneyt is breathtakingly beautiful wine in the making. The bouquet is flat out stunning, soaring from the glass in a blaze of sappy black cherries, black raspberries, raw cocoa, a very complex base of minerality, duck, vanillin oak and an exotic touch of lavender in the upper register. On the palate the wine is pure, complex and full-bodied, with stunning depth at the sappy core, beautiful mineral drive and a long, tangy and fine-grained finish. This is light on its feet and yet loaded with sappy fruit and great minerality. A brilliant wine. (Drink between 2030-2100)John Gilman | 98 JGThis 1920 parcel is situated in the northern part of the Romanée-St-Vivant grand cru, very close to Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s holdings - and it’s often a match for that wine. It’s detailed, lacy and refreshing, with adroitly integrated 50% new wood and layers of red cherry, raspberry and red plum fruit. It has focussed acidity and palate-caressing tannins. Effortlessly complex. Drinking Window 2023 - 2032Decanter | 97 DECThe 2017 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru wafts from the glass with a deep bouquet of cherries, wild berries and plums, with nuances of orange rind, rose petals and Asian spices emerging as it sits in the glass. Full-bodied, deep and complete, the wine’s textural attack segues into a multidimensional mid-palate framed by melting but muscular tannins and lively acids.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThis 2017 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru has a curious menthol-tinged bouquet offering plenty of fruit concentration to the mixture of red cherries, blueberry and cassis. Very opulent; maybe too much. The palate is sweet and candied, and there is quite a lot of new oak here and a lot of extraction. Powerful and virile, though de l’Arlot’s RSV exhibits more finesse and precision toward the finish. Maybe bottle age will temper its youthful decadence. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2017 tasting.asure.Vinous Media | 94 VM(Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru Red) There is a noticeable herbal tea character to the spicy red berry fruit aromas that are laced by hints of anise, hoisin and sandalwood. I very much like the excellent vibrancy of the beautifully detailed medium-bodied flavors that possess a silky mouthfeel that continues onto the dusty, linear and youthfully austere finish that is, somewhat curiously, a bit short. This is classy and delicious but the short finish concerns me and the herbal tea character is sufficiently prominent that it may not be to everyone’s liking. (Drink starting 2032).Burghound | 92 BH

The 2017 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a very precise and focused bouquet, almost the epitome of transparency and utterly encapsulating. There is real mineralité here. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, very tensile from the start with tart red cherries, Japanese yuzu and orange zest that fans out beautifully on the finish. This is a Charmes-Chambertin with a skip in its step.Vinous Media | 93-95 VMLight, pale and charming, this is always the most approachable and forward of the Rousseau grand cru bottlings, almost ready to drink from barrel. It’s sweet and appealing, with supple summer pudding flavours, a hint of cola and supple tannins. Drinking Window 2023 - 2027.Decanter | 94 DEC(Charmes-Chambertin- Domaine Armand Rousseau) The 2017 Charmes-Chambertin from Domaine Armand Rousseau is another great vintage for this bottling, which has hit some superb high water marks in recent times, with 2005, 2010, 2014 and now 2017 a significant step up from what this bottling was capable of back in the decades of the 1980s or 1990s. The 2017 offers up a deep and nicely black fruity bouquet of black cherries, black plums, dark soil tones, raw cocoa, grilled meats, woodsmoke and a touch of cedar. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and quite powerful in personality this year, with a sappy core of dark fruit, ripe, seamless tannins, excellent focus and grip and (Drink between 2029-2075).John Gilman | 94 JGRousseau’s 2017 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru is showing nicely, wafting from the glass with inviting aromas of red berries, plums and peonies mingled with hints of cedar, raw cocoa and mandarin orange. Medium to full-bodied, supple and enveloping, it’s soft and charming, with melting tannins and an ample core of fruit. Generous and demonstrative, like many 2017s it has picked up a bit of richness and depth in bottle.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP(Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru Red) This too reflects just enough wood to mention as it serves as a relatively neutral backdrop for the restrained and pure essence of red pinot fruit, earth and discreet spice whiffs. The backward if supple medium-bodied flavors possess a beguiling sense of underlying tension that carries over to the detail but very firm, serious and youthfully austere finish that delivers sneaky good length. Of all the Rousseau wines, the Charmes has made the most progress over the last 5 years as it’s finally beginning to consistently achieve grand cru quality. (Drink starting 2032).Burghound | 91-93 BH

The 2017 Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux has gained in depth and dimension with élevage and showed very well from bottle, unfurling in the glass with an expressive, youthfully fruit-driven bouquet of raspberries, cherries, candied peel and rose petals, framed by a subtle touch of new oak. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, velvety and fleshy, with succulent acids and elegant tannins. While this isn’t as rich, muscular or gourmand as the 2018, it’s an immensely seductive wine that will drink well comparatively young—though readers should still plan on exercising at least a decade’s patience.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPPaul Zanetti tends to make two different cuvées from the Clos des Epeneaux, one from younger vines and one from the older, left side of the premier cru, planted between 65 and 98 years ago. The combination in bottle is definitely more than the sum of its parts. This is not a blockbuster vintage for what can be an ageworthy wine, but it’s still appealing in a lighter, more approachable mode, with some tannic grip but lots of perfume, finesse and succulent berry sweetness. Drinking Window 2024 - 2029Decanter | 94 DEC(Domaine Comte Armand/Clos des Epeneaux Pommard "Clos des Epeneaux" 1er Cru Red) There is still just enough wood present to merit mentioning as it frames the herbal tea-inflected blend of both red and dark currant scents that are cut with leather and underbrush nuances. The supple medium-bodied flavors possess reasonable though not distinguished mid-palate concentration before terminating in a lingering if slightly attenuated finish. The supporting tannins are sufficiently firm that this youthfully austere effort will need at least a few more years of keeping first. A Clos des Epeneaux of relative finesse. (Drink starting 2027)Burghound | 91 BH

The older vines in de Vogüé’s extensive 7.2ha in Musigny date back to 1953 and make a wine that’s considerably weightier than the young-vine cuvée. This is very deep and intense in colour, exhibiting layers of dark bramble and black cherry flavours and a backbone of precise, chalky, mouthwatering acidity. A wine that needs time to digest its 35% new wood. Drinking Window 2026 - 2037Decanter | 96 DECThe 2017 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru is showing very well indeed, unfurling in the glass with aromas of cherries, rose petal, warm spices and orange rind, framed by creamy new wood. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, ample and velvety, with the greatest depth and dimension of any wine in the cellar, displaying excellent energy and completeness, and distinguished above all by striking length on the finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPThe 2017 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru is complex and well defined on the nose, where touches of iodine and wild heather infuse the black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly grainy texture; notes of black truffle and fresh fig complement a fruit profile that welcomes more red fruit toward the finish. Hints of white pepper and sage linger on the aftertaste. This is certainly beginning to close up in bottle, so allow a decade if you can for this Musigny to show what it is capable of.Vinous Media | 95 VM(Musigny “Vieilles Vignes”- Domaine de Comte de Georges de Vogüé) The 2017 Musigny old vine bottling was quite hunkered down after its recent racking, but though it was not as expressive as the Bonnes-Mares on this particular day, it showed good underlying soil signature and seemed to only be in need of more time out from the racking for everything to snap back into proper place. The wine certainly has lovely fruit elements in its mix of sappy black cherries and plums, complex soil tones, woodsmoke, gamebird, violets and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and nascently complex, with a good sappy core of black fruit, fine-grained tannins and lovely length and grip on the refined and quite soil-driven finish. This wine is not as precise as is customary (and which has to be a reflection of the post-racking period in which I tasted it), but there are really good elements here and if they all fall back into place properly, it will be a lovely wine. (Drink between 2030-2080)John Gilman | 93-95 JGAn openly exotic nose offers glimpses of black cherry liqueur, ginger, Asian-style tea, sandalwood and orange peel. The tighter and much more mineral-driven big-bodied flavors also possess evident muscle on the powerful and dense yet beautifully refined finish that goes on and on. This is also a bit less structured though with that said, this is going to need at least 15 years to reach its apogee. In a word, terrific.Burghound | 94 BH

The clay soils of this premier cru come into their own in a hot year like 2017, producing a wine that’s fine, plush and aromatic. With 20% stems and 25% new wood adding well-judged layers of complexity, this finishes with freshness and savoury tannins. Drinking Window 2023 - 2027.Decanter | 94 DECThe supplest, most open-knit of Lignier’s premiers crus from Morey, the 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru La Riotte bursts with aromas of plummy fruit, red currants, subtle spices and rose hip. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, supple and expansive, with a layered mid-palate, fine but chalky tannins and a saline finish. This will win friends in its youth.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90-93 RP(Morey St. Denis “la Riotte”- Domaine Hubert Lignier Père et Fils) The 2017 la Riotte from Laurent Lignier is an excellent wine in the making, offering up a very precise bouquet of cherries, dark soil tones, woodsmoke, gamebird, espresso and cedar. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and very transparent, with a good core, lovely focus and grip, fine-grained tannins and a long, tangy and complex finish. The personality of la Riotte is always a combination of bright red fruit and dark soil tones and the 2017 from Domaine Lignier is a perfect example of this beautiful mosaic of fruit and soil. This was made with twenty percent whole clusters in this vintage. (Drink between 2022-2060).John Gilman | 92 JGThe 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis La Riotte is aged in one-third new oak and includes 20% whole bunches. It has an expressive bouquet with touches of mint that infuse the vibrant red fruit. The dense, fresh palate is medium-bodied with gentle grip on the entry and hints of sour cherry toward the edgy finish. Good potential here.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM(Domaine Hubert Lignier Père et Fils Morey St. Denis "La Riotte" 1er Cru Red) Soft wood surrounds aromas of red and dark currant, newly turned earth and plenty of attractive floral elements. The nicely rich and generously proportioned medium weight flavors possess a sleek texture along with good precision that contrasts somewhat with the firm, dusty and slightly short and ever-so-mildly dry finale. Note that my projected range implicitly assumes that the dryness will dissipate eventually. (Drink starting 2025).Burghound | 88-90 BH

Making the most of owning a total of 1.5ha divided between the upper and lower parts of this premier cru, the Seysses always seem to make a particularly well-balanced Malconsorts. This is typically floral and appealing, with spicy notes coming from 85% whole-bunch fruit, along with textured berry flavours and supporting minerality. Drinking Window 2023 - 2030.Decanter | 95 DECThe 2017 Dujac Malconsorts is a superb wine, offering up glorious complexity, intensity of flavor and soil signature in a medium-full format that will be the epitome of elegance when it is fully mature. The bouquet jumps from the glass in a blaze of raspberries, red plums, smoked duck, a complex base of soil tones, roses, cocoa powder and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is pure, fullish and vibrant, with a sappy core of red fruit, beautiful transparency, seamless tannins, tangy acids and a very long, complex and dancing finish. There is a weightlessness to the palate impression here that is utterly charming. (Drink between 2027-2065)John Gilman | 94+ JGBoth more concentrated and more introverted than the preceding Beaux Monts, Dujac's 2017 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts opens in the glass with aromas of sweet red berries, plums, orange rind, smoked duck and peonies. On the palate, it's full-bodied, supple and elegantly muscular, with fine depth at the core, powdery tannins and mouthwatering acids, concluding with a perfumed finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2017 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru has a little more intensity on the nose compared to the Les Beaux Monts at the moment, while the fruit is a tad darker. The palate is compact on the entry, linear and strict, with blackberry, raspberry and touches of brine on the sturdy finish. This demonstrates the spine I look for in a Malconsorts. Give it three or four years once in bottle, because it punches at Grand Cru weight.Vinous Media | 93-95 VM(Domaine Dujac Vosne-Romanée "Les Malconsorts" 1er Cru Red) There is a seductive sweetness to the intensely floral-scented nose of various red berry fruit that are trimmed in a beautiful array of spice elements. The intense and well-detailed middle weight plus flavors culminate in firm, muscular and very serious finish that is dusty, austere and compact. This too will need to flesh out though it appears to have the necessary stuffing to do so if given time. (Drink starting 2032).Burghound | 91 BH

(Chambertin- Domaine Trapet Père et Fils) Like the Latricières, the Trapets’ 2017 Chambertin was showing brilliantly at the time of my visit. This is a stunning example of this great terroir, offering up a pure and aristocratic aromatic constellation of red and black cherries, bitter chocolate, black plums, grilled meats, a very complex base of soil, mustard seed, a touch of anise and a fine base of cedary oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, structured and very, very complex, with a great core of fruit, stunning transparency, ripe, seamless tannins and great grip and focus on the very, very long, magical finish. One of the wines of the vintage! (Drink between 2030-2100)John Gilman | 97+ JGThe 2017 Chambertin Grand Cru wafts from the glass with a beautifully complex bouquet of sweet wild berries, cherries, grilled meats, raw cocoa and cedary new oak. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, deep and reserved, with a layered, multidimensional core, tangy acids and velvety tannins, concluding with a long, pure finish. This is a lovely Chambertin in the making that displays excellent focus and tension for the vintage.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPThe 2017 Chambertin Grand Cru has an open, expressive, beautifully defined bouquet of brambly red fruit, rose petal and subtle sous-bois scents; a star anise/menthol scent emerges with time. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannins, dense and sappy. The finish does not convey the terroir as well as others in this flight, though it meliorates in the glass and develops more intellect with aeration. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2017 tasting.Vinous Media | 95 VMA background application of wood surrounds the cool and airy aromas of dark cherry, plum, earth and a whisper of the sauvage. There is terrific intensity to the beautifully delineated mineral-driven flavors that possess a refined mouthfeel before culminating in a saline, focused and strikingly persistent finish. This is almost a hypothetical combination of the Chapelle and the Latricières with the richness and volume of the former allied with the minerality, finesse and power of the latter. Patience advised.Burghound | 93 BH

The 2017 Montrachet Grand Cru is slightly deeper in color. This has a gorgeous bouquet of lemon thyme, orange blossom and crushed stone, all very focused, followed by an emerging touch of mintiness. The harmonious palate is powerful, ripe and slightly vanilla-y; it just lacks a little breeding and panache. A bold and brassy yet cerebral Montrachet that will need a lot of time. This surpasses all my expectations from barrel. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Savigny-lès-Beaune.Vinous Media | 98 VMThis is youthfully restrained for now with exotic essence of lemon, lime and grapefruit. The intensity and purity of the aromas is really captivating. Strong, flinty minerals and stones, too. The palate has a very plush, richly textural and expansive feel with extremely powerful tension between exceptionally concentrated citrus fruit and extremely intense acidity. Wow! Try from 2022.James Suckling | 98 JSAs all of the vines for the Marquis de Laguiche Montrachet are on the Puligny side of the vineyard, the frost damage here in 2016 was less severe than was the case on the Chassagne side of this grand cru. Consequently, there was probably a bit less pent up energy here and the vigor was more easily harnessed in 2017. In any case, the 2017 vintage of the Marquis de Laguiche Montrachet is flat out brilliant, offering up a stunning bouquet of pear, apple, lemon, a hint of almond paste, complex, limestone minerality, crème patissière, vanillin oak and a lovely topnote of citrus zest. On the palate the wine is deep, pure, full-bodied and rock solid at the core, with superb nascent complexity, bright, vibrant acids and impeccable balance on the very, very long, racy and utterly classical finish. A brilliant example of Montrachet in the making.John Gilman | 97 JGThe 2017 Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche Grand Cru was showing very well indeed, unwinding in the glass with aromas of Meyer lemon, tangerine, dried white flowers, green orchard fruit, beeswax and wet stones. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, ample and expansive, with considerable volume and breadth at the core that’s balanced by lively acids that lend the wine energy and tension. The finish is long and pure. This is a beautifully balanced Montrachet that I expect to show very well in bottle.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94-96 RPThe Drouhins’ plantings are in the northern part of Montrachet - there’s even a plaque on the wall to show you where they begin - and were picked in three stages in 2017. This is plush and smooth, with less acidity and bite than some, but it’s spicy and dense with aromatic oak, a drizzle of honey, and pear and nectarine fruit. Drinking Window 2021 - 2027.Decanter | 95 DECThis is also quite aromatically restrained with its decidedly cool and relatively airy nose that mixes a dollop of wood toast with plenty of floral, citrus and white-fleshed fruit scents. The super-fine but intense and tautly muscular large-scaled flavors possess a subtle minerality that carries over to the gorgeously complex, persistent and balanced finish. As it should be, this is very clearly built-to-age and a wine that should enjoy an extended maturity curve.Burghound | 95 BH

The 2017 Griotte-Chambertin from the Ponsots is excellent and very much cut from the same stylistic cloth as it was back during Laurent’s time at the helm of Domaine Ponsot in Morey. The ripe and very expressive nose wafts from the glass in a mix of sappy black cherries, black plums, dark chocolate, chalky soil tones, grilled meats, mustard seed and a bit of beetroot in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, precise and impressively mineral in personality, with a sappy core, ripe tannins and fine balance and grip on the long, tangy and complex finish. A superb Ponsot Griotte! (Drink between 2027-2075)John Gilman | 95 JGAn elegant and admirably pure nose offers up notes of red cherry, spice, violet and lavender along with hints of earth and forest floor. The supple and almost delicate flavors exude a subtle minerality on the delicious if mildly short finish that once again flirts with dryness. Like the Chambertin, the balance isn’t quite correctly dialed in but my predicted range offers the benefit of the doubt that it will. (Drink starting 2029)Burghound | 90-92 BH

A seductive white that draws you in with heady aromas of stone, butter, hazelnut and lemon. The intensity continues on the palate, where the mineral element and vivid acidity elevate the white peach, apple and baking spice notes. The texture borders on creamy, but maintains a mineral edge and cascades on the long aftertaste. Best from 2021 through 2030. 5 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSThe best of Pierre-Yves Colin Morey’s Meursaults comes from the lower part of Perrières, very close to the limit with Puligny-Montrachet. The humidity in the soil was a boon in 2017, helping the vineyard to produce a premier cru that’s racy, refined and very pure, with laser-like focus and intensity and a kiss of oak. (Drink between 2022-2030)Decanter | 95 DEC(Colin’s vines are located just across the road from his Charmes and a bit closer to the village of Meursault): Bright, pale yellow-green. Wonderfully delicate aromas of underripe pineapple, white peach, flowers, spices and crushed rock. Denser than Colin’s other Meursault premier crus but its uncanny thickness is fully buffered by dusty, palate-staining minerality. This very pure wine shows the penetrating energy of a tungsten filament. Consistent from start to endless finish. There’s still an impression of sweetness here as the wine has two grams per liter of residual sugar, but Colin suspects that one of his three 350-liter barrels has not yet completely finished its sugar fermentation.Vinous Media | 93-95 VMAs is usually the case chez Colin, this is the most elegant wine among these 1ers with its cool, pure and airy nose of lemon peel, mineral reduction, apple, pear and soft floral nuances. There is very good concentration to the seductively textured but precise medium-bodied flavors that flash plenty of minerality on the saline and strikingly persistent finish. Note well however that this chiseled effort is very firm and is a wine that is going to require extended patience. (Drink starting 2029)Burghound | 91-94 BHThe 2017 Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières is strongly marked by its terroir, offering up a crisp bouquet of lemon oil, tart green apple, crushed chalk, iodine and subtle spices. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, taut and tensile with tangy acids and a pronouncedly chalky, mineral quality.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-94 RP

(Domaine de la Pousse d’Or Clos de la Roche Grand Cru Red) This is also aromatically inhibited with its reluctant nose of plum liqueur, leather, humus and evident floral wisps. Here too there is excellent volume and intensity to the muscular and powerful flavors that are shaped by firm tannins that leave no doubt that this is built-to-age and a wine that’s going to need extended patience. I would add that in the context of the 2017 vintage, this is a big wine. (Drink starting 2032)Burghound | 92-95 BHThe 2017 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru offers more red fruit than the Bonnes-Mares, although at the moment this does not quite deliver the same nuance and comeliness. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin, quite linear and strict (especially for this vineyard), but with a welcome pinch of white pepper and sage towards the persistent finish. Afford it several years in bottle.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

The 2018 Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru has a very elegant bouquet that is more poised and detailed than the Charmes-Chambertin, offering black cherries, raspberry and ground gravelly scents; floral notes emerge with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, gorgeous blueberry and strawberry fruit and a silky-smooth, sensual finish that is utterly refined. Stunning.Vinous Media | 96-98 VMThe 2018 Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru unfurls in the glass with aromas of cherries, raspberries and rose petals, framed by a deft touch of new oak, and on the palate it’s more reserved than the Charmes at this early stage. Medium to full-bodied, deep and elegantly structural, it’s lively and nicely defined, but it will need a bit more time than the Charmes to come around. As readers will remember, Dugat’s vines in Chapelle-Chambertin are located in lieu-dit Les Gémeaux, a site that tends to produce somewhat more structured wines than adjacent lieu-dit La Chapelle.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95+ RP(Domaine Claude Dugat Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru Red) A riper and more deeply pitched nose is comprised by notes of plum, cassis, violet and discreet earth and spice nuances. The sleek and almost painfully intense big-bodied flavors possess event power and muscle while delivering excellent persistence on the minerally, crunchy and youthfully austere finish. This too is very clearly constructed for the long-term and it’s pointless to buy this without the expectation of aging it properly. (Drink starting 2036).Burghound | 92-94 BH

(Domaine Comte de Vogüé Bonnes Mares Grand Cru Red) This is very deeply colored, in fact so much so that it would make a young port blush! The ripe aromas of red and blue berries, spice and earth display a mentholated top note. The dense, powerful and mouth coating broad-shouldered flavors possess evident muscularity while delivering excellent length on the youthfully austere finale. This isn’t refined, indeed it’s borderline rustic, but it’s a dramatically impressive and very firmly structured wine that should live for decades. (Drink starting 2038)Burghound | 95 BH(Bonnes-Mares- Domaine de Comte de Georges de Vogüé) The 2018 Bonnes-Mares from Domaine de Comte de Vogüé had not yet been racked, so it was the first wine in the cellar where one could really see the size and shape of the vintage here in a proper perspective. This is going to be a lovely wine, as it delivers a fine aromatic constellation of black plums, black cherries, blueberries, dark soil tones, venison, woodsmoke and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and rock solid at the core, with lovely sappiness and mineral undertow, fine-grained tannins and a long, youthful and vibrant finish. This reminds me a bit of the 1993 Bonnes-Mares here, though I am not sure why, as 1993 was a cooler year and 2018 is a solar vintage, but there are some structural similarities and the same sappy, black fruity personality that I find attractive in both vintages. The 2018 Bonnes-Mares will take plenty of time to blossom, but it is superb potential. (Drink between 2035-2085).John Gilman | 94 JGThe 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is noticeably deeper in colour than the five other 2018 Bonnes-Mares in this line-up. Here, the dark cherry fruit seems a little cooked with faint tinned prune and raisin notes in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannins, firm grip, dusky black fruit laced with black pepper, touches of thyme and sage. There is energy here, but similar to other Bonnes-Mares, the tannins seem to just poke out on the brawny and monolithic finish. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 red tasting.Vinous Media | 90 VM

The 2018 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru is even darker than the Bonnes-Mares. It has a spectacular bouquet of intense black fruit, blueberries and shucked oyster shells, the mineralité heightened over the Bonnes-Mares and lending a great deal of precision. The palate is medium-bodied with blueberry, boysenberry and black currant fruit, extraordinary tension, razor-sharp acidity and a dash of white pepper on the crystalline finish. One of the finest Musignys I have tasted from barrel at de Vogüé.Vinous Media | 97-99 VM(Domaine Comte de Vogüé Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru Red) A ripe and super-fresh nose offers up notes of black raspberry, plum liqueur, Asian-style tea and a whiff of incense. The racy, intense and mineral-driven big-bodied flavors retain outstanding delineation as well as an abundance of palate soaking dry extract before delivering stunningly good length where an interesting hint of citrus character in the form of mandarin orange appears. This incredibly powerful effort is both classy and highly complex and like the Bonnes Mares, is a wine that will live for decades. With that said, it’s not so backward and compact to preclude it being approachable after only 10 to 12 years. A knockout by any standard. (Drink starting 2043)Burghound | 97 BHAll the vines that are used to produce this extensive cuvée of Musigny are over 25 years’ old, so it always has good concentration. But in 2018, it’s an especially big, dense, powerful wine with masses of inky colour, assertive one-third new oak, plenty of plush bramble and black cherry fruit, undertones of sweet spices and liquorice and a chalky flourish. Needs time. Drinking Window 2026 - 2033.Decanter | 95 DEC(Musigny “Vieilles Vignes”- Domaine de Comte de Georges de Vogüé) The 2018 Musigny Vieilles Vignes was also in fine form at the time of my visit, as the racking for this cuvée was just starting and there were plenty of untouched casks to choose from for sampling. The wine is very deep and still very primary on both the nose and palate, with the bouquet wafting from the glass in a sappy blend of black cherries, sweet dark berries, dark chocolate, gamebird, woodsmoke, soil and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and shows off excellent mid-palate depth of sappy fruit, with good mineral drive, ripe, seamless and buried tannins, fine focus and grip and a long, focused and classy finish. All this needs is time in the cellar! (Drink between 2038-2085).John Gilman | 95 JG

Breathtakingly ripe, lush and fruity, with a deep mulberry and cassis fruit but no lack of spicy mineral depth. This Chambertin is immensely pleasurable now, yet there is plenty of substance, extract and structure to age for decades to come. The 1.85ha that Trapet farms over three parcels in Chambertin is slowly being converted to planting individual vines on stakes (‘en échalas’) without hedging the canopy. One can only describe the results as extraordinary. Drinking Window 2026 - 2060.Decanter | 99 DECThe 2018 Chambertin Grand Cru has a transparent and very Pinoté nose. Pretty and elegant, quite mineral driven with very impressive focus. This has the aromatics precision of a Swiss clock - ethereal. The palate is velvety smooth with fine depth, slightly creamy in texture due to the new oak. Quite lavish though not ostentatious, it delivers haunting tension on the finish. Ethereal. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 red tasting.Vinous Media | 98 VMVinified without any destemming, Trapet’s 2018 Chambertin Grand Cru is showing superbly, unfurling in the glass with a profound bouquet of cassis, cherries and red berries mingled with notes of dark chocolate, rose petals, licorice and exotic spices. Full-bodied, supple and enveloping, it’s effortless and complete, with an ample chassis of exquisitely fine, powdery tannins and lively acids, concluding with a long and penetrating finish. This is a stunning Chambertin in the making—and an ineffably elegant one at that.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95-97 RP(Chambertin- Domaine Trapet Père et Fils) The 2018 Chambertin from Jean-Louis Trapet is stellar on both the nose and palate. The perfectly ripe bouquet delivers a complex blend of red and black cherries, plums, grilled meats, a gorgeous base of soil tones, woodsmoke, a hint of mustard seed, vanillin oak and a dollop of raw cocoa. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and rock solid at the core, with firm, ripe tannins, a proper sense of reserve out of the blocks, great focus and grip and a very, very long, soil-driven and classic finish. Great juice. (Drink between 2032-2085)John Gilman | 96+ JG(Domaine Trapet Pere & Fils Chambertin Grand Cru Red) This is aromatically similar to the Latricières but perhaps even a bit cooler and with more earth and sauvage elements. There is a really lovely purity to the sleek, dense, intense and markedly powerful large-scaled flavors that exude an almost pungent minerality on the austere, serious and wonderfully persistent and very firmly structured finale. As the Trapet Chambertin often is, this is not a monster of concentration or structure but rather one of refinement and grace. (Drink starting 2038)Burghound | 95 BH

The 2018 Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru shows some clever use of stem, quite focused and well-defined, wonderful Pinoté here, very fragrant and floral. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp, slightly chalky tannins, fresh and quite saline with a vibrant, animated finish that has impressive sapidity for the vintage. There is a beguiling sense of completeness here. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 red tasting.Vinous Media | 96 VMFrom holdings located exclusively in lieu-dit En la Chapelle, Trapet’s 2018 Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru offers up an inviting bouquet of cassis, plums, dark chocolate and pungent spices, framed by a deft touch of toasty new oak. Medium to full-bodied, it’s deep, layered and fine-boned, built around elegantly chalky tannins that are cloaked in a lively core of fruit.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95+ RP(Chapelle-Chambertin- Domaine Trapet Père et Fils) Chapelle-Chambertin is quite a warm terroir, so I wondered how it would turn out in the torrid summer of 2018, but Jean-Louis picked this very early and the alcohol comes in at a quite classic 13.5 percent this year. The wine is ripe and powerful in personality, albeit, still with that characteristic Chapelle elegance, as it wafts from the glass in a gorgeous blend of plums, black cherries, grilled meats, cigar wrapper, chocolate, an excellent base of soil, vanillin oak and a distinct topnote of fresh nutmeg. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and rock solid at the core, with firm, ripe and seamless tannins, excellent focus and grip and a very long, nascently complex and classic finish. This is outstanding. (Drink between 2030-2080)John Gilman | 95 JG(Domaine Trapet Pere & Fils Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru Red) A deft application of wood sets off riper aromas of poached plum and black cherry liqueur that display a plenitude of floral and discreet spice elements. The relatively big-bodied flavors are rich to the point of opulence while possessing a caressing texture, all wrapped in a very firm and impressively long finale. I like the balance as the firm tannins are already well-integrated. Lovely stuff. (Drink starting 2035)Burghound | 94 BH

The 2018 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru is more subdued on the nose than Faiveley’s Mazis-Chambertin: scents of baked cherry, bergamot, wild strawberry and quite pronounced sous-bois aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiselled tannins, taut and linear. Some new oak momentarily just impedes the finish that detracts from the terroir expression, but it does cohere wonderfully in the glass. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 red tasting.Vinous Media | 97 VMThe 2018 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru is a magical wine in the making, and readers might think of it as a more elegant, structurally refined version of Trapet’s 1999 Latricières. Wafting from the glass with notes of cherries, cassis, dark chocolate, coniferous forest floor and rose petals, it’s full-bodied, velvety and layered, with an incisive spine of acidity, lively acids and terrific concentration, concluding with a long, resonant finish. This is worth a special effort to seek out.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94-96 RP(Latricières-Chambertin- Domaine Trapet Père et Fils) The 2018 Latricières-Chambertin from Domaine Trapet is another brilliant example of the vintage. As the microclimate here is cooler than in Chapelle, the wine is a tad less powerful in personality out of the blocks and is an absolute classic in the making. The nose is deep, pure and very precise, offering up scents of sweet dark berries, black cherries, meaty tones, a great base of dark soil tones, woodsmoke, espresso and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, soil-driven and shows off stunning mid-palate depth, with lovely focus and nascent complexity, suave, buried tannins and outstanding length and grip on the perfectly balanced finish. A gorgeous vintage of the Trapet family’s Latricières. (Drink between 2030-2080)John Gilman | 95+ JGJean-Louis Trapet’s 0.78ha parcel runs up the slope from the top to the bottom of the Grand Cru and was planted in two stages in 1937 and 1946. Exhibiting the freshness of the site, especially welcome in a vintage like 2018, this has appealing notes of clove and ginger spice, fine-grained 40% new oak, textured tannins, sweet raspberry fruit and a refreshing finish. Drinking Window 2022 - 2030.Decanter | 95 DEC(Domaine Trapet Pere & Fils Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru Red) This too presents a deft touch of wood on the slightly cooler and even more floral-infused aromas of wild dark berries, anise, tea and forest floor. There is slightly better energy and certainly much more minerality on the dusty, youthfully austere and sneaky long finish. As one would reasonably expect given the natural coolness of Latricières, this is less marked by the heat of the 2018 vintage. This too is really quite lovely and harmonious. (Drink starting 2035)Burghound | 94 BH

The 2018 Musigny Grand Cru is matured entirely in new oak. During racking in July, it was decided that one of the two barrels was too toasty, and so the wine was racked into a used Bonnes-Mares barrel. It has a compelling bouquet of intense blackberry, raspberry and floral aromas that seem to explode from the glass. The palate is very well balanced with fine, supple tannins. I adore the symmetry of this Musigny and the panache it exudes toward the very long finish. This is one of the best the domaine has produced. Outstanding.Vinous Media | 96-98 VM(Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Musigny Grand Cru Red) Very generous wood again fights with the spicy and ripe red and dark currant aromas that are cut with pretty floral wisps. There is excellent richness to the punchy and wonderfully textured medium weight flavors that flash good minerality on the somewhat dry and spiky finish that avoids being tough though it would be fair to observe that this is not an elegant version of the appellation. Once again, this is not without interest but the balance isn’t what it could be and whether it will ameliorate in time is an open question but I doubt it. (Drink starting 2035).Burghound | 90-92 BH

The 2018 Musigny Grand Cru is slightly lighter than the Bonnes-Mares tasted alongside and has a more detailed, precise bouquet of intense blackberry, mulberry, sous-bois and light charcoal aromas that gain power with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and a fine bead of acidity, very sensual and seductive. The polished and lightly spiced finish is pure class. Outstanding.Vinous Media | 95-97 VM(Maison Joseph Drouhin Musigny Grand Cru Red) A highly restrained nose requires plenty of swirling to coax the super-floral and spicy aromas to reveal nuances of plum liqueur, red cherry and sandalwood. The marvelously refined middle weight flavors possess a beguiling satin-like texture yet there is no lack of punch on the wonderfully long, complex and well-balanced finish. Like the Amoureuses, this stunningly classy effort is a knockout that should also age effortlessly over the long-term. (Drink starting 2036).Burghound | 94-96 BHSensual’ is the word Véronique Drouhin uses to describe this remarkable wine and there is certainly something fleshy, enticing and engaging about this polished, refined Grand Cru bottling. Made with 40% whole bunches and 30% new wood, it’s bright, perfumed and very silky with lacy tannins and no sign of the heat of the vintage. Decadent stuff. Drinking Window 2026 - 2035.Decanter | 96 DEC

The 2018 Echézeaux Grand Cru had been racked the day prior to my visit. That said, the bouquet is very well defined, offering black cherries, raspberry, rosemary and pressed rose petal aromas that blossom with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with quite firm tannins, good depth and precision, revealing bitter cherry and a touch of balsamic toward the finish. Very good potential.Vinous Media | 93-95 VM(Echézeaux- Domaine Dujac) The 2018 Echézeaux from Domaine Dujac is a brilliant wine in the making, and this is one of the best young examples of this cru that I can recall tasting at the estate. The celestial bouquet soars from the glass in a sappy blend of raspberries, cherries, red plums, duck, a very complex base of soil tones, Vosne spices, cocoa powder and cedary oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and tangy, with all of the complexity that the nose promises, a great core, suave, fine-grained tannins and outstanding backend mineral drive on the focused and utterly complete finish. Great, great Echézeaux! (Drink between 2032-2075).John Gilman | 95 JGThe 2018 Echezeaux Grand Cru is a promising cuvée in the making, mingling aromas of dark berry fruit, cassis and cherries with notions of burning embers, dried flowers and dark chocolate. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, broad and ripely tannic, with a layered and nicely concentrated core, lively acids, and a well-defined finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-94+ RP(Domaine Dujac Echézeaux Grand Cru Red) The wood treatment is more evident though it certainly doesn’t intrude on the exceptionally spicy and very floral aromas that reflect notes of cassis, plum, exotic tea and a touch of violet. The medium-bodied flavors possess a seductive and succulent mid-palate that contrasts markedly with a powerful but grippy and slightly drying finish. Again, the open question is whether this will eventually harmonize? (Drink starting 2028).Burghound | 88-91 BH