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(Domaine du Clos Frantin (Nuits St. Georges) - Domaines Albert Bichot Chambertin Grand Cru Red) Here too there is enough wood to mention though not enough to be especially intrusive on the equally good and restrained nose that grudgingly offers up notes of red and dark cherry, sauvage, cool earth and a whiff of game. There is excellent intensity to the dense, powerful and muscular large-scaled flavors that exude an abundance of minerality on the austere, backward and sneaky long finish. This too needs to develop better depth, but the apogee of this wine is so far into the future that more is all but guaranteed to emerge with time. (Drink starting 2039).Burghound | 91-94 BHFrom 0.17 hectares of vine worked by horse and including a large proportion of whole bunch, the 2019 Chambertin Grand Cru has a fragrant bouquet of pure dark cherry, boysenberry, crushed stone and pressed violet aromas. It reminds me of a Clos de la Roche in some ways. The palate is well balanced with fine and quite sturdy tannins. It does not possess the sophistication of the preceding Grands-Echézeaux, but there is good energy on the finish. Very fine. Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

(Domaine François Lamarche La Grande Rue Grand Cru Red) An elegant mix of upper and medium register aromas centers mostly on the red side of the fruit spectrum along with hints of exotic tea, spice and pretty floral elements along with a hint of menthol. There is lovely detail and underlying tension to the moderately powerful medium-bodied flavors that possess plenty of punch on the dusty and youthfully austere finish that exhibits first-rate length. This beautifully balanced effort is a lovely combination of power and refinement and a wine that will also need extended aging though not as much as the Grands Ech. (Drink starting 2034).Burghound | 93-95 BHThis 1.65ha Lamarche monopole next to La Tâche was planted 40 years ago. Lamarche has destemmed the fruit and gently fermented this with an eye toward restraint, before ageing over two winters in cask (80% new). The result has a seductive, pronounced red and black fruit character on the attack, with notes of liquorice and smoke. The wine has pleasant heft, but there are no rough edges or heaviness and the substantial extract is balanced by good, fresh acidity. Lovely in every respect. Drinking Window 2024 - 2049.Decanter | 95 DECThe 2019 La Grande Rue Grand Cru is aromatically tailored in a similar vein to the domaine’s other Grand Crus: ethereal and floral in style with rose-petal-infused red fruit, the quintessential Pinoté, and hints of crushed rock developing with time. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins, cohesive and poised, gaining weight with aeration toward a very pixelated finish and leaving a ferrous aftertaste. Very fine, very feminine.Vinous Media | 92-94 VM

The 2019 Echézeaux Grand Cru (Domaine Louis Jadot) is very promising, exhibiting incipiently complex aromas of raspberries, cassis, candied peel, burning embers and potpourri, followed by a medium to full-bodied, charming and vibrant palate that’s broad and enveloping, with lively acids and fine, powdery structuring tannins.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RP(Maison Louis Jadot Echézeaux Grand Cru Red) A much spicier if less earthy nose is more deeply pitched with its aromas of poached plum, exotic tea, black cherry and a whiff of sandalwood. The round, supple and surprisingly forward mid-palate of the medium-bodied flavors contrasts immediately with the very firm, markedly powerful and moderately austere finish. This too is excellent and while it’s not a refined Echézeaux (examples from Les Rouges du Bas rarely are), it is not only imposing but offers fine development potential as well. (Drink starting 2036)Burghound | 92-95 BHThe 2019 Echézeaux Grand Cru has a pleasant bouquet of predominantly red fruit laced with cedar, autumn leaves and Earl Grey, gently unfolding in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and fine balance and poise. There is a slightly grainy texture toward a finish of modest length. This should evolve into a sedate but appealing Echézeaux.Vinous Media | 92-94 VM

The 2019 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru demonstrates a little more amplitude than the Clos de la Roche because of the one-third stem addition. It is exquisitely defined, offering precise black fruit laced with melted tar and graphite notes, and wonderful focus. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins framing the judiciously spiced black fruit that segues into a very harmonious, grippy finish. This is one of Jadot’s best cuvées this vintage. Vinous Media | 95-97 VMA plethora of spice nuances are present on the emphatically floral-suffused nose of red raspberry, earth and a whiff of exotic tea, all of which is trimmed in wood and menthol nuances. The plump, round and highly seductive flavors possess both good mid-palate density and a very sophisticated mouthfeel that continues onto the relatively powerful and highly persistent finale. The intrinsic class of a fine CSD is very much present and this is seriously impressive. Burghound | 93-96 BHThe 2019 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru (Domaine Gagey) offers up notes of cherries, red berries, rose petals, raw cocoa, espresso roast and sweet soil tones. Full-bodied, layered and muscular, it’s rich and dramatic, with an enveloping core of fruit and ripe, refined tannins.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95+ RPFrom vines in the original heart of Clos-St-Denis belonging to the Gagey family, this is produced with 50% whole clusters, producing complex aromatics that range from red and black fruit to hints of mineral, menthol and smoke. The texture is very fine and delicate, with impressive length and great elegance. This drinks well now and should only improve with some time in the bottle. Drinking Window 2021 - 2025.Decanter | 95 DEC

The 2020 Grands-Echézeaux Grand Cru has a nicely-detailed bouquet: mulberry, crushed stone, rose petal and light bergamot aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, taut and fresh with a slightly chalky-textured but quite persistent finish. I admire the tension here and the length - a noble G.E.Vinous Media | 94-96 VM

The 2020 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru possesses one of the finest aromatics from Jadot this year with pixelated red bery fruit and perfectly integrated oak. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannins, mainly red fruit laced with tobacco, mocha and white pepper, gentle grip on the finish and a persistent aftertaste. Superb.Vinous Media | 95-97 VM

Very forward plum and fig fruit, with a note of dark chocolate. The texture is ripe and velvety, but there is plenty of depth here. Very pleasant. Bichot purchases the fruit from this parcel of 1.28ha in Les Sorbets. In 2020 it was picked on the 28th of August and fermented with one-third whole clusters.Decanter | 92 DECDeep but not exaggerated purple. Ripe plums on the nose, this has not gone over the limit. A couple of chocolate notes mixed in with the dark red fruit, good acidity of course, considerable length. Attractive wine of middling density and good balance.Jasper Morris | 90-92 JMAn interesting nose of very ripe pepper, ripe plum, dark raspberry and warm earth precedes relatively refined and lilting flavors that contrast significantly with the mildly rustic finish that really firms up as it sits on the palate. Note that this moderately austere effort has the stuffing to reward a decade or so of cellaring.Burghound | 91 BH

The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jacques (Domaine Louis Jadot) is shaping up brilliantly, wafting from the glass with aromas of raspberries and plums mingled with sweet spices, orange rind and peonies. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and concentrated, it’s bright and precise, with a layered core of fruit and a long, penetrating finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPThe 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has a well-defined bouquet with crisp blackberry, briary, crushed stone and light eucalyptus aromas that blossom with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fine acidity, fleshy and harmonious with a touch of spice towards its very cohesive and sustained finish. Classy.Vinous Media | 93-95 VMAt this stage of its evolution, this demonstrates lush dark plum and cassis fruit, with floral notes plus hints of smoke and spice. The texture is tannic and firm, with an impressive level of extract and a lingering, beautiful persistence on the finish. Jadot’s hectare of the Clos St-Jacques, acquired in 1985 from the Clair-Daü family, has long been one of the jewels of its estate. It is located at the centre of the Clos, producing a wine of tremendous refinement and elegance. Jadot destems the grapes and ferments gently before ageing in cask (30% new). Drinking Window 2025 - 2040.Decanter | 95 DEC(Maison Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin "Clos St. Jacques" 1er Cru Red) Perfumed aromas of lavender, rose petal and red and dark berry coulis scents are trimmed in admirably discreet wood influence. The notably finer is a bit less powerful medium-bodied flavors brim with both minerality and sappy dry extract that buffers the balanced and strikingly persistent finish. This appears to have excellent development potential and is a wine that should drink well after only 7 to 8 years yet should richly reward 12+. (Drink starting 2032)Burghound | 92-94 BH

(Domaine Michel Magnien Clos St. Denis Grand Cru Red) A wonderfully layered nose is the most complex in the range with its blend of dark cherry, exotic tea, spice elements and lovely violet scents, all trimmed in just enough wood to merit mentioning. The refined and caressing middle weight flavors possess solid punch and excellent depth and persistent. This is at once classy and stylish and a wine that should age effortlessly on its balance. (Drink starting 2032)Burghound | 92-94 BH

The 2020 Chambertin from Trapet is sublime. It owns 1.85ha over three parcels in a variety of soils and 15% of the vines are trained high on stakes (’en echalas’). This diversity gives a complex fruit expression, from plum and black cherry to pomegranate and red currant, shot through with floral notes, spice and mineral. However, it is also a wine of power and depth, with the tannin and extract to live 80 years or more. One certainty: Trapet has mastered the art of Chambertin. Drinking Window: 2022 - 2035Decanter | 99 DEC(Chambertin- Domaine Trapet Père et Fils) The Trapet family’s 2020 Chambertin is a great young wine. The bouquet delivers beautiful precision and purity in its constellation of black cherries, sweet dark berries, cassis, black minerality, cigar wrapper, grilled meats, just a touch of mustard seed, cedar and a smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and utterly complete, with a rock solid core, superb soil signature, ripe, firm tannins and a long, vibrant and complex finish. Great juice in the making, but this will need plenty of cellaring time to unfurl. (Drink between 2037-2100)John Gilman | 98 JGThe king of the cellar is the 2020 Chambertin Grand Cru, a magical wine in the making that unwinds in the glass with aromas of cherries, blackberries, rich soil tones, espresso roast, rose petals, licorice, oyster sauce and dark chocolate. Full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, it’s seamless and complete, with huge concentration, lively acids and rich, velvety tannins, concluding with a long, resonant finish. Well-connected and well-heeled readers will derive immense pleasure in comparing the 2020 with the 2019 and 2018 renditions several decades from now.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96-98 RPThe 2020 Chambertin Grand Cru was picked on 7 September and a small plot around five days later. It has a beautiful, quite ethereal bouquet with a complex mélange of red and black fruit, the 80-90% whole bunch completely assimilated with wonderful delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, harmonious and smooth, immense depth and elegance as it fans out towards the finish with perfect sapidity. Sublime.Vinous Media | 95-97 VMAn even more restrained nose timidly expresses slightly riper aromas of plum, dark currant, rose petal and plenty of sauvage character. There is both excellent volume and mid-palate density to the bigger-bodied to the sappy and intensely mineral-driven flavors that are blessed with a taut muscularity on the moderately austere, serious and very firmly structured finale. This is expressly built-to-age and a wine that is definitely going to need at least a decade before could be reasonably approached.Burghound | 93-95 BH

The Grivot family owns 0.84ha of Echézeaux, mainly in Les Cruots. The grapes are entirely destemmed and given a cold soak before gentle fermentation on native yeasts. The wine is pressed and aged in cask (40% new). The result shows impressive elegance yet is in no way lacking fruit, with a lovely, expressive black cherry and pomegranate quality. The texture is delicate, yet there is impressive concentration, and the red fruit and floral notes linger on the finish. Drinking Window: 2027 - 2050Decanter | 96 DECTouches of bitter chocolate and kirsch are present on the spicy aromas of plum, violet and soft wood. The finer if not denser flavors possess a velvety texture while also coating the palate with dry extract on the dusty and chalky finish that is likewise youthfully austere. I very much like the depth and persistence and this beauty should also age gracefully for as long as most anyone would like.Burghound | 93-96 BHThe 2020 Echézeaux Grand Cru offers mulberry, sous-bois and very subtle star anis aromas on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, quite taut and fresh, linear at the moment with touches of blood orange and Clementine towards the finish. Give this several years in bottle.Vinous Media | 92-94 VM

The 2020 Musigny Grand Cru has a well-defined bouquet with red cherries, blackcurrant, touches of animal fur and black truffle - very complex and intense. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, wonderful depth and cohesion, the acidity perfectly judged. The 30-40% stems here lends a discrete peppery note on the finish to what is one of the best Musigny that I have tasted from Jadot in recent years. Stunning.Vinous Media | 97-99 VMThere are two barrels of the magical 2020 Musigny Grand Cru (Domaine Louis Jadot), a striking wine that soars from the glass with scents of blood orange, rose petals, wild berries, sweet soil tones and musk. Full-bodied, ample and enveloping, it’s vibrant and multidimensional, with a deep, layered core and a long, resonant finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95-97 RP(Maison Louis Jadot Musigny Grand Cru Red) Much like the Amoureuses, the dazzling nose of plum, black raspberry and floral scents is super-spicy with its combination of anise, sandalwood, clove, hoisin and dried orange peel nuances. There is both outstanding volume and even better intensity to the more mineral-driven, concentrated and focused flavors that exude a touch of bitter pit fruit character on the hugely long, balanced and highly complex finale. This is very classy juice that should age gracefully for the better part of two decades. (Drink starting 2037)Burghound | 93-96 BH

The 2020 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is very pure and harmonious on the nose with plush black cherry and cassis fruit, well-integrated oak and a floral aspect that becomes more prominent with time. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, taut and fresh, lightly spiced with quite a vivacious, mineral-driven finish that retains superb definition. This is very impressive and bloomin’ delicious (already!)Vinous Media | 96-98 VMA wine with huge potential is the 2020 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru (Domaine Louis Jadot). Unwinding in the glass with notes of raspberries, red cherries, vanilla pod, exotic spices and raw cocoa, it’s full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, with an immensely concentrated core, powdery tannins and a tightly wound profile. This will be among the slowest to evolve of all the wines in the cellar, and also among the most long-lived.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94-96+ RP(Maison Louis Jadot Bonnes Mares Grand Cru Red) Very generous wood and menthol nuances still allow the liqueur-like aromas of red currant, violet and range of spice elements to be appreciated. There is first-rate power and punch to the moderately dense and beautifully textured flavors that display superb length on the sappy finish where the only nit is a hint of warmth. (Drink starting 2037)Burghound | 93-96 BHThe wine is massive, with grippy tannins, full body and an interminable finish. ’A great vintage to taste in 20 years,’ according to winemaker Frédéric Barnier. The 0.27ha Jadot parcel (owned by the house itself) is in a strip that goes from the top of the vineyard to the bottom, and thus includes both terres blanches (white marl) and terres rouges (red clay). The fruit character is black plum and cassis, with a firm, mineral and earthy element. Drinking Window 2025 - 2040.Decanter | 96 DEC

(Maison Henri Boillot Bonnes Mares Grand Cru Red) A cool, pretty and quite floral-suffused nose speaks mostly of red currant, plum, earth and a hint of just sliced fennel. The sleek, tautly muscular and enveloping big-bodied flavors exude a lovely tension that is also present on the dusty, serious, very compact and clearly built-to-age finale. This excellent effort should amply repay extended cellaring. (Drink starting 2035)Burghound | 95 BHAs with all the reds at Boillot, the Bonnes-Mares is fermented in small casks (fermentation integrale). Here the technique seems to dominate the fruit, giving it a ripe fig character, with notes of smoke, earth and chocolate, and a slightly soupy feel. Produced with grapes sourced from the Chambolle side of Bonnes-Mares, Drinking Window 2025 - 2040Decanter | 93 DEC

Deep rich and inky purple. An explosion of heady very dark cherry fruit, not an ethereal style of Chambertin at this stage in its life. All the body is there, a sumptuous wave of fruit and then, bless me, the elegance of this great vineyard does start to come out behind. Perfectly judged ripeness, really very fine indeed. | 95-97 JMThe nose shows lush blueberry and cassis fruit, without excessive influence from the small cask fermentation. There is a lovely tension on the palate and a silky tannic line that leads to a pleasantly lingering finish. Although the fruit is purchased (from Damoy), the team at Boillot is able to pick the grapes themselves. The grapes are completely destemmed and fermented in small 228-litre casks. Drinking Window 2025 - 2050.Decanter | 95 DEC(Maison Henri Boillot Chambertin Grand Cru Red) Cool but very ripe aromas include notes of mocha, dark berry liqueur, earth and a hint of the sauvage. The sleek, intense and mineral-driven broad-shouldered flavors manage to display both good richness and delineation on the more overtly austere, compact and sneaky long finale. This is definitely not a candidate for early drinking. (Drink starting 2032)Burghound | 94 BH

Ripe and attractively fresh aromas include those of black cherry coulis, spice and violet. The very rich and generously proportioned medium weight flavors possess a succulent mid-palate that contrasts somewhat with the textured and lingering finish where the supporting tannins are a bit raspy. (Drink starting 2027)Burghound | 88-91 BHThe 2020 Chambolle-Musigny Village, whose malolactic finished at the beginning of September, matured in 25-30% new oak, has a much more defined and fresher nose than the Bourgogne Rouge with lively black cherry and crushed strawberry scents. The palate is ripe and sweet, yet nicely controlled, the oak neatly integrated with quite a precocious tart finish. Maybe it just needs a little more persistency, but this will do nicely. (This blend includes 20% whole bunch. I tried a 40% whole bunch that is being trialled in three barrels. I actually preferred this, so it will either be blended together or bottled separately - no decision has been made yet.)Vinous Media | 88-90 VM

The 2020 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has a very pure and quite precocious bouquet with black cherries, crushed violet and peony aromas, actually not unlike a Romanée-Saint-Vivant in style. Thet palate is succulent on the entry with candied orange peel infusing the mainly black fruit that merges into more red fruit towards the velvety finish. Quite gorgeous. (Drink between 2026-2048)Vinous Media | 94-96 VMA fresh and unusually expressive nose features notes of red and dark cherry, white pepper and a hint of kirsch. The delicious and intense middle weight flavors possess fine depth and persistence on the equally youthfully austere finale that is also sufficiently austere to easily repay 12+ years of cellaring. Fine quality here. (Drink starting 2032)Burghound | 92-94 BH

The 2020 Morey-Saint-Denis Village, which contains around 15% whole bunch, had only finished its malo a month prior to my visit. It has a dense, intense, blackcurrant and cassis-scented bouquet that will need time to mellow. The palate is medium-bodied, fresh and fleshy but the black cherry fruit is framed by fine tannins and the finish is so silky smooth that you cannot help falling for its charms. (Drink between 2025-2040)Vinous Media | 90-92 VMThere is a top note of kirsch to the earthier and spicier aromas of red and dark berry liqueur. The delicious, round and caressing flavors possess very good punch while exuding a refreshing salinity on the dusty and palate coating finale. (Drink starting 2027)Burghound | 88-91 BH

An exuberantly fresh nose of spicy purple fruit, exotic tea, violet and hints of cinnamon and sandalwood are trimmed in discreet but not invisible wood. There is both good richness and punch to the supple medium-bodied flavors that conclude in a lightly austere but impressively long and harmonious finale. This could use better depth but like the VRBM, the Rouget Ech has an excellent track record for aging well.Burghound | 92-94 BHThe 2021 Echézeaux Grand Cru, aged in 100% new oak, is tasted from two barrels as one is heavily reduced, while the other shows fine delineation: crushed strawberry, wild mint and loam. The palate is heavily reduced at first, quite dense and broad-shouldered, black cherries mixed with cassis, a little chocolaty towards the finish.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

The 2021 Vosne-Romanée Village is perfumed, floral and pure on the nose with wilted violet petals infusing the red fruit - très Vosne. The palate is silky smooth with a fine body. This sample is taken from a new barrel so it has some François Frères imprint on the finish, but there is appreciable focus and length.Vinous Media | 89-91 VMThis particular sample was pulled from a new barrel and not surprisingly, the wood influence was generous on the aromas of black raspberry, plum, exotic tea and star anise. The sleek and vibrant flavors are also not especially dense, but they do possess a more sophisticated texture while exhibiting very good length on the bitter pit fruit-inflected finish. This too should be relatively approachable young if you don’t wish to wait.Burghound | 89-91 BH

The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Village has a very delineated, vibrant bouquet with white tipped strawberry and cranberry aromas, cohesive with impressive vigour and finesse. The medium-bodied palate is supple on the entry, extremely well balanced, surprisingly spicy with a finish that fans out wonderfully. Simply, one of the best Gevrey Villages you will find in 2021.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMAromas of red berries mingling with notions of sweet spices, forest floor and smoke introduce the 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Village, a medium-bodied, fleshy wine built around bright acids and beautifully refined, powdery tannins. Long and sapid, it shows outstanding potential.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 89-91 RPModerate reduction pushes the underlying fruit to the background. By contrast the middleweight flavors are ultra-fresh and very bright with excellent delineation while displaying solid depth and persistence on the youthfully austere finale. This should be reasonably approachable after only 2 to 3 years of keeping.Burghound | 88-91 BH

The vines were planted in 1904. A richer deeper ruby purple. A flamboyant pure fruit on the nose, sort of unexpected for Clos Vougeot. Excellent tension on the palate, all the structure that a Clos Vougeot needs but nothing in excess. Seamless, sensual, yet with all the strictness it should have. Very fine. Drink from 2032-2040. Tasted: November 2023.Jasper Morris | 95-98 JMThe 2002 Clos de Vougeot le Grand Maupertui Grand Cru, which comes from vines born in 1904, is endowed with darker fruit than the Grands-Echézeaux. Well-defined, maybe a little opulent in style, yet still controlled. The palate is well-endowed with dark berry fruit, more black than red, pain d’épice and white pepper. There’s plenty of substance and grip towards the finish. But it is always elegant and deserves 10-12 years in bottle. Excellent.Vinous Media | 95-97 VMThis is also quite spicy and even more aromatically restrained with its fresh nose of earthy red pinot fruit. The denser and even more powerful larger-bodied flavors deliver excellent length on the impressively long and very much built-to-age if decidedly austere finale that flirts with rusticity. This is a classic CV and one that should age accordingly.Burghound | 92-95 BH

A lovely mid purple. Very perfumed and with density, I suspect with detail to follow as well. Succulent, and with amazing depth plus magical length. One or two darker fruit notes, stopping short of chocolate. But this is a profound and sensual Echezeaux from a domaine noted for its lighter style. Drink from 2030-2038. Tasted: November 2023.Jasper Morris | 96-98 JMThe 2022 Echézeaux Les Loachausses Grand Cru (not the easiest lieu-dit to pronounce but is actually a monopole of the Gros family) is the most taciturn on the nose amongst Anne Gros’ cuvées. There is a touch of crushed stone that develops in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a lot of sucrosity on the entry. It has fine depth and is quite linear, and maybe it needs to muster a little more complexity and terroir expression on the finish. I’m sure it will.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMModerate wood influence can be found on the exuberantly spicy and smoky nose of mostly dark currant and violet scents. There is good energy to the delicious if not especially dense middleweight flavors that conclude in a firm finale that exudes focused power as well as a touch of warmth.Burghound | 91-93 BH

A brilliant purple, with a fascinating touch of spice to add to the depth of dark yet royal fruit. Just keeps getting more profound on the nose. Incredibly intense through the middle, excellent mineral acidity behind, and a length well above the others. Thank you for this perfection. Drink from 2032-2040. Tasted: November 2023.Jasper Morris | 96-99 JMThe 2022 Richebourg Grand Cru is intense on the nose: mainly black fruit with a pronounced marine/oyster shell influence. It gains complexity and nuance on the glass. The palate is well-balanced, and the 40-50% new oak neatly enmeshed (higher than previous vintages). It has a fine bead of acidity with a dense and convincing finish, suggesting this will mature gracefully over the next 30-40 years. Almost crystalline - a great Richebourg from Anne and Julie Gros.Vinous Media | 96-98 VMThis is a thrilling wine, deceptively light in colour but aromatically powerful, with a concentrated pomegranate and black cherry fruit character and an extraordinary sense of density, substance, and length on the palate. The grapes come from the Gros family holdings in Les Vérroilles; the youngest vines are 50 years old; the balance is 75. They are destemmed and gently fermented before ageing in cask (30% new). This wine is a model of both finesse and power. Ideally, wine lovers will wait a decade from the vintage to sample its beauties; this wine will live a half-century.Decanter | 96 DECHere too there is a plethora of spice elements present on the slightly more elegant nose of violet, lavender, exotic tea, and red and dark currant scents. The impressively scaled flavors are not nearly as dense as those of the CV but they’re notably finer and more mineral-inflected as well, all wrapped in a balanced and hugely long finale. This is certainly classier than the CV but good as it is, it’s not necessarily qualitatively better.Burghound | 92-95 BH

A solid core of ruby purple. What a beautiful nose! Global warming says a friendly hello to cooler sites such as Les Barreaux. More oak this year because of the shortage of one year old barrels, and that shows a touch at the back at the moment but will all integrate. Very lively and extremely fine, with a greater depth of fruit than the Chambolle. The pinot fin plant selection is showing its class here. Drink from 2028-2035. Tasted: November 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JMThe 2022 Vosne-Romanée Les Barreaux, which Paul Gros said the family considers a Premier Cru close to Cros Parantoux and Richebourg, is based on poor shallow limestone soils. The nose takes time to open and evolves lovely raspberry and wild strawberry scents laced with oyster shells. The palate is medium-bodied with good substance on the entry. This is more structured than you might presuppose. It has a silver bead of acidity, and the finish feels pixelated for a Village Cru. Bon vin.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMAlthough this is slightly closed on the initial attack, there is a crisply refreshing high-toned fruit character (cranberry, raspberry, pomegranate), with notes of peony and spice. The texture is fresh, tannic and grippy, and the compact, expressive fruit has an admirably chiselled character. The wine is from 75-year-old vines planted at the top of the slope above Richebourg and Cros Parantoux — the ’baby Richebourg’ according to Anne Gros. This wine will drink well from three to five years after the vintage.Decanter | 93 DECIn contrast to the expressiveness of the prior wines, here the nose is firmly reduced and reveals nothing. More interesting are the fresh, vibrant and beautifully textured medium-bodied flavors that already possess solid depth and very fine length on the balanced if firmly structured finale. Lovely.Burghound | 89-91 BH