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(Domaine Marquis d’Angerville Volnay "Champans" 1er Cru Red) Remarkably this has changed relatively little since my initial in-bottle review amost 10 years ago as the ripe raspberry liqueur-like nose evidences hints of spice, violets, earth and underbrush. The vibrant, pure, round and naturally sweet medium-bodied flavors possess excellent intensity on the precise, powerful and mineral-driven finish. There is a beautiful tension to this wine and while there is a serious tannic backbone, this seems supple on the mid-palate because the structure is so well-buffered. This is still very much on the way up and should easily see its 50th birthday (and many more) in superb condition. As such I would strongly advise letting this beauty continue to slumber. (Drink starting 2025)Burghound | 94 BHOne of the three batches that will be blended to make up d ‘Angerville’s 2005 Volnay Champans was still in malo, so I base my assessment on the other two. Scented with cherry and cassis, flowers and fungus, smoke and chalk dust, this displays richness and depth, fine tannins and emerging silkiness, and a youthfully firm but long finish loaded with savory subtleties. Just give it 6-8 years before revisiting. (The outstanding d’Angerville 2004s were also very late to finish malo, and the Champans is especially memorable for its vivid sauteed champignons, alluring ginger spice, marrowy richness, and flattering mouth feel, indeed comparable in quality though lacking the developmental potential of this 2005. As a striking example of mercantile bipolar disorder, I purchased this outstanding 2004 for $49.99 from a merchant whose price on the 2005 thus represented a 350% premium!)Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RPGood full red. Reticent nose suggests cherry, licorice, flowers and truffle. Displays the copious sweetness of the vintage but with terrific focus and underlying spine. A stony, minerally pinot with real delicacy and cut. The long, noble finish offers a lovely combination of silk and stone and enticing lingering perfume. An archetypical Volnay that combines structure and charm: I wouldn’t be surprised if this merited an even higher score eight or ten years from now.Vinous Media | 93 VMRigid now, with cherry, mineral and smoke notes backed by burly tannins. Yet, it’s elegant in stature, concentrated and built for the long haul. Closed up already, but be patient. Best from 2014 through 2028. 150 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS(Marquis d’Angerville Volnay “Champans”) By all indications, this will be a great vintage for the Champans chez d’Angerville. This can often be one of the more recalcitrant young wines in the cellar, but it is showing remarkable refinement out of the blocks. The bouquet offers up notes of cherries, red berries, coffee, lovely minerality and a touch of spicy oak. On the palate the wine is deep, fullish and intensely flavored, with again simply striking purity, excellent focus and balance, and a long, moderately tannic and tangy finish. Fine juice. (Drink between 2012-2035)John Gilman | 92-93 JG

Tentative hints of red currant and red cherry escape from this wine’s shy nose. The palate adds hints of flinty reduction as well as subtle creaminess that cushions the firm stucture. Wonderful freshness highlights fine-boned tannins that are firm and filigreed in equal measure. A concentrated core radiates red-berry tartness and aroma heightened by the freshness of this svelte but well-cut wine.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WE(Domaine du Clos Frantin (Nuits St. Georges) - Domaines Albert Bichot Echézeaux Grand Cru Red) A notably ripe and very spicy nose combines notes of cassis, blue berry, violet and sandalwood. The seductive and velvet-textured middle weight flavors possess both good volume and plenty of sappy dry extract that mostly buffers the firm tannic spine shaping the balanced if youthfully austere finish that exhibits outstanding length. This too is very good and will need extended patience. (Drink starting 2033)Burghound | 93 BHA densely packed, fruity style, this boasts macerated cherry, raspberry, vanilla and toast flavors. It feels balanced for the most part, with chalky tannins lining the finish that should integrate in a year or two. Vibrant and long. Best from 2023 through 2038. 300 cases made, 97 cases imported. Wine Spectator | 93 WS

The 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru contains 30% whole clusters. It has a perfumed bouquet of blackberry, hints of cassis, crushed violet and touches of potpourri, very well defined and focused and delivering the intensity one expects from this growing season. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins and just the right amount of acidity. Wonderful harmony and composure here, gently unfolding toward a satin-textured finish that lingers long in the mouth. Bon vin!.Vinous Media | 94-96 VMThe Drouhins’ 1ha of Bonnes Mares is entirely located on red soils and was planted in different stages. Fermented with 30% stems and aged in 80% new wood, this is a plush, layered, well upholstered Pinot Noir, exhibiting the ripeness of the vintage, fine-grained tannins and more than enough acidity and minerality for balance. Comparatively well priced, too. Drinking Window 2026 - 2033.Decanter | 96 DEC(Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Bonnes Mares Grand Cru Red) Here the wood treatment overwhelms the nuance of the dark berry fruit aromas. Otherwise there is slightly better size and weight to the medium-bodied flavors that possess a succulent and juicy mid-palate before terminating in a chewy and serious but not drying finish that offers notably better persistence. (Drink starting 2033).Burghound | 89-92 BH

A slightly cooler and higher-toned if less spicy nose reflects notes of various red berries, especially cherry, along with plenty of earth is again trimmed in enough wood to notice. There is fine volume to the round, fleshy and suave medium weight flavors that exhibit good power on the lingering finish that also displays hints of warmth and bitter cherry pit character. This broad-shouldered effort is going to require at least moderate patience.Burghound | 92 BH

Very spicy aromas of various red and dark berries possess a mentholated top note. There is again excellent volume to the sleek and tautly muscular flavors that possess a gorgeous mouthfeel, all wrapped in a powerful, sappy and lingering finish where a hint of warmth emerges. This too is going to require extended patience. (Drink starting 2034)Burghound | 93 BH

The 2019 Chablis 1er Cru Séchet opens in the glass with scents of citrus oil, white flowers, beeswax, oyster shell, wet chalk and mandarin. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and strikingly intense, it’s taut and chiseled, with tangy acids and huge reserves of concentration, concluding with a pungently chalky finish. As I’ve written before, Séchet—where Dauvissat owns a 0.8-hectare parcel—is located in the Vaillons Valley, but its windier situation and soils richer in active limestone mean it’s typically more tensile and incisive than the other climats that make up Vaillons. Technically retired but very much a continuing presence at his eponymous domaine, Vincent Dauvissat—who forsook a career as a shepherd to become one of France’s most celebrated vignerons—couldn’t disguise his satisfaction as we tasted his recently bottled 2019 portfolio. After some discussion, we settled on the 1989 vintage ("but tighter and more incisive") as a possible analogy for 2019’s hyper-concentrated, ripe, but all the while classically Chablisien style. In any case, they’re some of the wines of the vintage and are well worth seeking out. Readers will remember that farming here is organic but without certification. The harvest is by hand, and the wines ferment in tank before racking to barrel with the lees (Raveneau’s Chablis, by contrast, are racked to barrel more or less without their lees), spending a second winter in wood before bottling. A first bottling, destined for the American market. | 94 RP The 2019 Chablis Séchets 1er Cru has an elegant and more floral bouquet compared to Vincent Dauvissat’s other 2019s, beautifully defined and offering baked apple, pear and white flower scents. The palate is well balanced with a spicy opening, plus hints of stem ginger and walnut. Quite tensile and full on the finish. Good potential here.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMA markedly citrusy and noticeably cooler nose combines notes of mineral reduction with those of pear and apple confit. There is again very good volume and mid-palate density on the seductively textured medium-bodied flavors that are also quite dry on the balanced finale. This is a powerful Séchet that is even more robust and one that will need to add depth with age, but it should do just that if given a chance.Burghound | 92 BH

The 2019 is a fabulous wine, with ripe apple fruit showing a citrusy edge to it, balanced acidity and impressive length on the palate. Roulot now farms 5ha of vines in this appellation, located between the village and the Route Nationale, spread over eight parcels. The fruit is lightly crushed and fermented in cask (mostly used) before ageing for one year. (Drink between 2021-2029)Decanter | 92 DEC

The 2019 Beaune 1er Cru Grèves has turned out beautifully, bursting from the glass with aromas of plums, sweet berries, spices, woodsmoke and orange rind. Medium to full-bodied, ample and velvety, it’s a charming, lively wine that’s open and expressive out of the gates.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RP

The 2019 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Boudots 1er Cru, aged in 50% new oak, has an intense bouquet of floral and violet aromas joined by dark berry fruit and a touch of tobacco. The palate is medium-bodied and quite mineral-driven, with gentle grip and a savory, earthy, quite broody finish. This should be fascinating to watch evolve in bottle.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM(Domaine Georges Noëllat Nuits St. Georges "Les Boudots" 1er Cru Red) This is also notably ripe with its blend of plum, dark raspberry, range of spice elements and an exotic tea nuance. There is very good freshness and vibrancy to the delicious medium weight plus flavors that exude a discreet minerality on the dusty, moderately austere and firm but not rigid finale. This will need at least a few years to develop better depth and shed some of its tannic spine. (Drink starting 2029)Burghound | 89-92 BH

The 2019 Echézeaux Grand Cru (Domaine Louis Jadot) is very promising, exhibiting incipiently complex aromas of raspberries, cassis, candied peel, burning embers and potpourri, followed by a medium to full-bodied, charming and vibrant palate that’s broad and enveloping, with lively acids and fine, powdery structuring tannins.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RP(Maison Louis Jadot Echézeaux Grand Cru Red) A much spicier if less earthy nose is more deeply pitched with its aromas of poached plum, exotic tea, black cherry and a whiff of sandalwood. The round, supple and surprisingly forward mid-palate of the medium-bodied flavors contrasts immediately with the very firm, markedly powerful and moderately austere finish. This too is excellent and while it’s not a refined Echézeaux (examples from Les Rouges du Bas rarely are), it is not only imposing but offers fine development potential as well. (Drink starting 2036)Burghound | 92-95 BHThe 2019 Echézeaux Grand Cru has a pleasant bouquet of predominantly red fruit laced with cedar, autumn leaves and Earl Grey, gently unfolding in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and fine balance and poise. There is a slightly grainy texture toward a finish of modest length. This should evolve into a sedate but appealing Echézeaux.Vinous Media | 92-94 VM

Tightly wound and dense, this red isn’t revealing much today other than plenty of black cherry, blackberry and dark plum flavors packed into an elegant frame. Features violet, vanilla and toasty oak elements, which add depth as this cruises to a lingering, bitter chocolate finish. Shows fine freshness and harmony. Best from 2026 through 2045. 336 cases made, 35 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSProduced from a blend of Echézeaux du Dessus (80%) and Les Quartier de Nuits (20%), the grapes are fermented after a cold soak with 30% whole clusters. The fruit is punched down and racked into cask (80% new) for 18 months of ageing. The result is forceful and muscular; there is a pleasantly ripe plum and fig fruit with hints of earth, leather and smoke. The wine is tannic and firm - it seems a bit disjointed at present but should come together for the long term. I suggest waiting five years, and then drinking it over the next twenty.Decanter | 94 DECA very ripe nose features notes of chocolate, menthol, cassis and a variety of spice elements, all of which is trimmed in generous but not invasive wood. The suave, round and velvety flavors are also rich to the point of opulence before tightening up quickly into a very firmly structured and tightly wound finish that displays very fine length. This compact and quite serious effort is going to require extended patience.Burghound | 91-94

The 2020 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has a very pure and quite precocious bouquet with black cherries, crushed violet and peony aromas, actually not unlike a Romanée-Saint-Vivant in style. Thet palate is succulent on the entry with candied orange peel infusing the mainly black fruit that merges into more red fruit towards the velvety finish. Quite gorgeous. (Drink between 2026-2048)Vinous Media | 94-96 VMA fresh and unusually expressive nose features notes of red and dark cherry, white pepper and a hint of kirsch. The delicious and intense middle weight flavors possess fine depth and persistence on the equally youthfully austere finale that is also sufficiently austere to easily repay 12+ years of cellaring. Fine quality here. (Drink starting 2032)Burghound | 92-94 BH

(Domaine Michel Magnien Clos St. Denis Grand Cru Red) A wonderfully layered nose is the most complex in the range with its blend of dark cherry, exotic tea, spice elements and lovely violet scents, all trimmed in just enough wood to merit mentioning. The refined and caressing middle weight flavors possess solid punch and excellent depth and persistent. This is at once classy and stylish and a wine that should age effortlessly on its balance. (Drink starting 2032)Burghound | 92-94 BH

The 2020 Chablis 1er Cru Séchet is brilliant, mingling aromas of crisp green apple and lemon oil with notions of oyster shell, freshly baked bread, white flowers and wet stones. Medium to full-bodied, ample and satiny, it’s racy and tensile, with tangy acids and a long, searingly mineral finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPPure, poised and dry with delightful nuance. This is a classic Séchet with a superb aftertaste, so much fruit to cover the dry bones typical of this vineyard – and indeed implied by its name. The 2020 is immaculately balanced pure and subtly nuanced. It may easily close down for a few years after bottling, so do not be afraid to keep it back. Drink from 2028-2035. Tasted: June 2022.Jasper Morris | 94 JMThe 2020 Chablis Les Séchets 1er Cru is very pure on the nose, though not quite as mineral-driven as the 2019, that I tasted last year (also from barrel). But the aromatics are very elegant. Ditto the palate, which delivers fine acidity, impressive concentration, white peach and dried mango flavors and plenty of spice toward the finish. Excellent.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMThe 2020 Chablis “Séchet” from Vincent Dauvissat is very refined this year, showing the classical proportions of the vintage to very fine effect. It delivers an aromatic constellation of green apple, lemon, a beautiful base of chalky soil and oyster shell, spring flowers and a lovely topnote of beeswax. Pure, full and racy on the palate, the Séchet shows off exemplary depth at the core, excellent focus and cut and an impeccably balanced, but still quite closed personality on the long finish. This is going to be an outstanding bottle, but it will demand just a bit of patience to allow it to properly blossom. (Drink between 2026 - 2060)John Gilman | 93 JGMore elegant and airier aromas include those of citrus blossom, algae, iodine and a touch of green apple. The detailed and very intense medium-bodied flavors flash both good minerality and salinity on the balanced bitter lemon-inflected finale. This promising if decidedly firm effort is firm enough to reward up to a decade of cellaring.Burghound | 92 BH

As is almost invariably the case, Dauvissat’s 2020 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons is sensual and perfumed, wafting from the glass with aromas of orange oil, peach, jasmine and nutmeg. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, it’s vibrant and fleshy, with an ample core of fruit, racy acids and a long, saline finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2020 Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru is more floral on the nose compared to the preceding Les Séchets. White flowers, dandelion and touches of orange zest develop in the glass, precise and finessed. The palate is structured with good grip and a slightly waxy texture, building beautifully toward a very persistent finish. Give this 2–3 years in bottle (at least).Vinous Media | 91-93 VM(Chablis “Vaillons”- Domaine Vincent Dauvissat) The 2020 Vaillons from Monsieur Dauvissat is just as beautifully structured out of the blocks as the Séchet, sharing that same classical sense of balance and reserve, so it too will deserve just a few years of hibernation in the cellar before starting to drink with generosity. But, the potential here is enormous, as the wine offers up a fine bouquet of apple, pear, chalky minerality, white lilies, citrus peel and just a touch of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, precise and full, with a rock solid core, beautiful acidity and mineral drive, impeccable balance and a long, focused and nascently complex finish. (Drink between 2026-2060)John Gilman | 93+ JG

The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jacques (Domaine Louis Jadot) is shaping up brilliantly, wafting from the glass with aromas of raspberries and plums mingled with sweet spices, orange rind and peonies. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and concentrated, it’s bright and precise, with a layered core of fruit and a long, penetrating finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95 RPThe 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has a well-defined bouquet with crisp blackberry, briary, crushed stone and light eucalyptus aromas that blossom with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fine acidity, fleshy and harmonious with a touch of spice towards its very cohesive and sustained finish. Classy.Vinous Media | 93-95 VMAt this stage of its evolution, this demonstrates lush dark plum and cassis fruit, with floral notes plus hints of smoke and spice. The texture is tannic and firm, with an impressive level of extract and a lingering, beautiful persistence on the finish. Jadot’s hectare of the Clos St-Jacques, acquired in 1985 from the Clair-Daü family, has long been one of the jewels of its estate. It is located at the centre of the Clos, producing a wine of tremendous refinement and elegance. Jadot destems the grapes and ferments gently before ageing in cask (30% new). Drinking Window 2025 - 2040.Decanter | 95 DEC(Maison Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin "Clos St. Jacques" 1er Cru Red) Perfumed aromas of lavender, rose petal and red and dark berry coulis scents are trimmed in admirably discreet wood influence. The notably finer is a bit less powerful medium-bodied flavors brim with both minerality and sappy dry extract that buffers the balanced and strikingly persistent finish. This appears to have excellent development potential and is a wine that should drink well after only 7 to 8 years yet should richly reward 12+. (Drink starting 2032)Burghound | 92-94 BH