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The 2020 Chardonnay Powder House is ethereal and gracious in feel. Effusive aromatics give the Powder House its lifted personality. White pepper, chalk, mint and lemon oil add quite a bit of brightness. The balance here is driven by energy and vibrancy more than by volume.Antonio Galloni | 90-92 AG

The 2021 Chardonnay One Sixteen, matured for 14 months in 34% new French oak, takes some time to shake off its youthful crème brûlée and allspice tones to reveal apricot, beeswax and honeysuckle aromas. The medium-bodied palate offers powerful fruit and oak spice and satisfying freshness to lift the finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RP

From a somewhat warmer site on thin, volcanic soils overlooking the Russian River, Eastside—originally a collaboration between Ulises Valdez and Mark Aubert—features a Montrachet selection planted on riparia rootstock. Despite plenty of new French oak in the élevage, there’s only a faintly fumé, crushed-stone character on the nose, which nicely sets off the wine’s white peach and lime notes. Full-bodied and generous but sturdily built, with an imposing structure, the 2021 Chardonnay Eastside is powerful and long on the finish. The crop was virtually wiped out by a spring frost in 2020, but the vines rebounded in 2021, yielding 1,400 cases.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95-97 RPThe 2021 Chardonnay Eastside Vineyard marries textural richness and vibrancy in grand style. There’s terrific energy here, the result of poor, stressed soils that naturally limit yields. Bright acids and veins of minerality drive this focused Chardonnay. Citrus, orchard fruit, ginger and light tropical accents build into the intensely saline finish. Superb.Vinous Media | 95-97 VMThis shows a seductive oily texture with pineapple, lime, lemon, cooked apple, and a little brioche. Some green mango. Lots of minerality. Full-bodied. Layered with amazing acidity. A very contrasting wine with richness and liveliness. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 97 JS

Floral, non-fruity hints of crushed stone and talcum powder appear on the nose of Aubert’s 2021 Chardonnay Powder House, creating an attractive counterpoint to the wine’s honeyed richness and intense white-peach notes. Full-bodied and silky in feel, it’s a bit custardy in texture yet lithe, graceful and long, with an almost mentholated finish. There are 2,000 cases this vintage, from a Forestville vineyard planted in 2015 mainly to Hyde Old Wente, plus a bit of Mount Eden.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95-97 RPLove the aromas of lemon-lime, gunpowder, kiwi, and dried lemons. It’s full, phenolic and solid. This is like red wine in structure. Long and persistent. One for the cellar. Give this some time. Best after 2025.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2021 Chardonnay Powder House is elegant, polished and also a touch reticent. That won’t be an issue in time, but the Powder House is decidedly reticent today. Strong mineral accents are front and center, while the fruit feels pushed into the background. Mark Aubert’s Chardonnays have historically aged quite well. I expect that will be the case here as well.Vinous Media | 94-96 VM

Layered, elegant, vivid and mineral-driven, this full-bodied wine paints a distinct picture of one of Sonoma County’s oldest, most iconic chardonnay vineyards. Stone, kiwi and crisp apple notes fill the aromas, while light accents of butter and vanilla bean highlight the vibrant green apple and lime flavors. It expands on the palate and echoes for minutes in the finish. This wine is known to age well, so drink or hold.James Suckling | 97 JSElegant and precise, this crisp expression offers plenty to admire -- apple, lemon zest and Sumo orange notes, plus an aromatic punch of yuzu, orange blossoms and sweet grass. A quiet toasted brioche detail lingers in the background, as does a savory thread of freshly grated ginger and toasted green tea hints. Drink now through 2032. 774 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WSThe 2021 Chardonnay Rochioli Vineyard is bright and focused, but also understated in feel. Sweet floral and citrus notes give the 2021 lovely aromatic presence to match the wine’s understated, mid-weight personality. Bright saline tones add energy and tension throughout. Lemon peel, white pepper and crushed rocks linger.Vinous Media | 93 VM

The 2021 Chardonnay Woolsey Road Vineyard is another dense, ample wine in this range. The Woolsey Road has a good deal of phenolic intensity. There’s real breadth and resonance here. Lemon confit, white pepper and dried herbs are nicely amplified.Vinous Media | 94 VMFragrant, focused and precise, offering flavors of lemongrass and lemon blossoms, with Meyer lemon and green papaya accents, plus a touch of tangerine. Shows green tea, lemon balm and white pepper notes on a mouthwatering frame, with a hint of salinity that lingers. Drink now. 787 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WSRichness and concentration are the hallmarks of this full-bodied, mouth-filling wine. Deep in Bosc pears, baked apples and baking spices, it offers a creamy texture balanced by moderate acidity. Drink now or hold.James Suckling | 93 JS

The 2022 Zinfandel Jackass Vineyard is powerful, dense and explosive, in the classic Martinelli style. Super-ripe dark cherry, cloves, leather, cedar and brown spices build effortlessly. This virile, somber Zinfandel packs a tremendous punch. It’s a gorgeous wine from the Martinelli family.Vinous Media | 94 VM

The 2022 Sauvignon Blanc L’Après-Midi, blended with 8% Sémillon and matured in about 15% new French oak, features ringing tones of peach, kiwi, tarragon and white lily with undertones of candle smoke, flint and petrichor. The palate opens with pure fruit before unfurling expansive, savory accents, and its fresh acidity balances its satiny, mouth-coating texture. Its juxtaposition of concentrated fruit and shimmery tension draws you back to the glass for another dynamic sip, and although it’s approachable now, it will develop complexity in bottle over the next decade. 2,163 cases were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RP

I tasted the 2022 Chardonnay Belle Côte from tank shortly before it was due to be bottled. It’s lively and generous with singular scents of lemon drop, pie crust and toasted meringue, plus integrated tones of matchstick and allspice. The medium-bodied palate is defined by its lacy, lightly mouth-coating texture. Its deep core of creamy, lemony flavors is enlivened by mouthwatering acidity, and its juxtaposition of depth and energy calls you back for another sip. 1,783 cases will be produced, and the Belle Côte will be released in February of 2024.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96-98 RPThis powerful version opens with a toasty mix of spices, buttery toasted brioche and carmelized apple pastry. Offers plenty of plump ripe peach, apricot and melon flavors, with a note of marmalade at the core. Candied ginger, graham cracker, salted, toasted almond and marzipan linger on the finish. Drink now through 2033. 1,783 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

I tasted the 2022 Chardonnay La Carrière from tank on the day of its bottling. It has an alluring delicacy on the nose with soft scents of peach, apricot, meringue, toasted bread and honeysuckle with nuances of roasted almonds and flint. The palate combines a bright spine of acidity with a satiny texture and expansive, layered stone fruit and spice layers, and it has a very long finish. 1,503 cases will be made, and the La Carrière will be released in February of 2024.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96-98 RPThis stunning white offers a lovely mix of marzipan and nougat, with notes of orange sherbet, lemon blossoms, salted toffee and peach preserves on a smooth, supple and elegant frame, backed by fresh acidity. Grace notes of lemon balm and lemon thyme, plus a touch of vetiver, add to the aromatic appeal and complexity. Drink now through 2037. 1,503 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WS