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The white of the vintage is the 2016 Château Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc. It’s a magical elixir based on 90% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Sauvignon Gris, and 5% Sémillon that was brought up in 50% new oak. Deep, layered, and powerful, yet also vibrant, it has sensational notes of crushed citrus, liquid rock, white flower, lime pith, and honeyed grapefruit. It shows the classic, balanced style of the vintage yet offers thrilling depth and concentration and is a tour de force in white Bordeaux. Drink it any time over the coming two decades. Get it if you can!Jeb Dunnuck | 99 JDFabulous aromas of white-peach pie, lemon, grapefruit and cream. Complex. Full-bodied, dense and linear. Bright and creamy texture. Gorgeous grace and complexity. Lasts for minutes.James Suckling | 97 JSOne of Bordeaux’s finest dry whites. With a refined palate, subtle oak, perfect balance of luscious lime fruit and fresh acidity, this is beautifully constructed. Intense, with a touch of pepper on the palate and a hint of lanolin, this will age beautifully. Drinking Window 2020 - 2035.Decanter | 96 DECThe Smith Haut Lafitte 2016 Blanc is a blend of 90% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Sauvignon Gris and 5% Sémillon matured in 50% new oak. It reveals gregarious pineapple and green guava notes giving way to tantalizing fresh grapefruit and green apples scents plus wafts of orange blossom, crushed rocks and honey drizzled peaches. Medium to full-bodied with a gorgeous satiny texture, the palate is jam-packed with tropical and citrus flavors, finishing long and deliciously savory.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThe 2016 Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc is well defined on the nose of apple blossom, orange pith, Japanese yuzu and light crushed stone aromas, one of the prettiest and most harmonious dry white aromatics you will find in this vintage. The palate is fresh and vibrant with a lovely waxy texture. Very expressive Sémillon here, delivering great depth and reassuring complexity on the finish. This is an outstanding effort. Brilliant.Vinous Media | 96 VMThis rich, full wine shows intense spice, fruits and a ripe texture that is nearly fully developed. A hint of tanginess emphasizes the richness of this powerful wine that brings in bits of spice and minerality. Drink now.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEThis has a showy persona, with an alluring brioche note emerging already, carrying friendly creamed yellow apple, white ginger and pear flavors. The finish lets macadamia nut and verbena accents glide in seamlessly. The finish is long and refined thanks to well-buried acidity. Best from 2021 through 2029. 1,833 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

This is the debut vintage of this wine from the esteemed Bordeaux owner, Alfred Tesseron, who bought the property in the Napa mountains in 2016. Aromas of plums, wet earth, fresh herbs and tobacco. Some green olives. Turns to blueberries and blackberries. Full-bodied, yet reserved and layered with chocolate, walnuts and plums. Firm yet polished tannins give a framed sense to the wine. Savory. Racy and beautifully structured, it’s extremely drinkable already. Real wine.James Suckling | 98 JSA blend of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot and 7% Cabernet Franc, the 2016 Pym-Rae displays a deep garnet-purple color and reveals wonderfully fragrant notes of candied violets, wilted roses, damp soil and black tea over a core of red and black currants, black cherries and warm blackberries plus touches of cigar box and camphor. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is evocatively singular, offering that rock-solid structure of mountain fruit, yet these are wonderfully ripe, silt-like tannins that beautifully support the elegant red and black fruit layers, finishing very long and very perfumed.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RP

(Romanée-St.-Vivant- Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat) The 2017 Romanée-St.-Vivant from Monsieur van Canneyt is breathtakingly beautiful wine in the making. The bouquet is flat out stunning, soaring from the glass in a blaze of sappy black cherries, black raspberries, raw cocoa, a very complex base of minerality, duck, vanillin oak and an exotic touch of lavender in the upper register. On the palate the wine is pure, complex and full-bodied, with stunning depth at the sappy core, beautiful mineral drive and a long, tangy and fine-grained finish. This is light on its feet and yet loaded with sappy fruit and great minerality. A brilliant wine. (Drink between 2030-2100)John Gilman | 98 JGThis 1920 parcel is situated in the northern part of the Romanée-St-Vivant grand cru, very close to Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s holdings - and it’s often a match for that wine. It’s detailed, lacy and refreshing, with adroitly integrated 50% new wood and layers of red cherry, raspberry and red plum fruit. It has focussed acidity and palate-caressing tannins. Effortlessly complex. Drinking Window 2023 - 2032Decanter | 97 DECThe 2017 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru wafts from the glass with a deep bouquet of cherries, wild berries and plums, with nuances of orange rind, rose petals and Asian spices emerging as it sits in the glass. Full-bodied, deep and complete, the wine’s textural attack segues into a multidimensional mid-palate framed by melting but muscular tannins and lively acids.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThis 2017 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru has a curious menthol-tinged bouquet offering plenty of fruit concentration to the mixture of red cherries, blueberry and cassis. Very opulent; maybe too much. The palate is sweet and candied, and there is quite a lot of new oak here and a lot of extraction. Powerful and virile, though de l’Arlot’s RSV exhibits more finesse and precision toward the finish. Maybe bottle age will temper its youthful decadence. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2017 tasting.asure.Vinous Media | 94 VM(Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru Red) There is a noticeable herbal tea character to the spicy red berry fruit aromas that are laced by hints of anise, hoisin and sandalwood. I very much like the excellent vibrancy of the beautifully detailed medium-bodied flavors that possess a silky mouthfeel that continues onto the dusty, linear and youthfully austere finish that is, somewhat curiously, a bit short. This is classy and delicious but the short finish concerns me and the herbal tea character is sufficiently prominent that it may not be to everyone’s liking. (Drink starting 2032).Burghound | 92 BH

The deep garnet-purple colored 2017 Ausone is a blend of 55% Cabernet Franc and 45% Merlot. It sashays out of the glass with gregarious scents of baked red and black plums, wild blueberries and boysenberries plus touches of violets, espresso, licorice and melted chocolate with wafts of iron ore and tilled soil. Medium-bodied, the palate is an exercise in poise, featuring beautifully ripe, silken tannins and bold freshness to support the fragrant multi-layers, finishing very long and very minerally.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPThe 2017 Ausone is incredibly precise and sculpted, but also tightly wound in the early going - not that that will be a problem for readers who own it and will cellar it. Wild flowers, mint, blood orange and crushed rocks are some of the nuances that open up in the glass, but the 2017 is not in any mood to show all of its cards. Vertical, rich and explosive with tons of inner energy, the 2017 is a truly regal wine, but it also needs a number of years to be at its very finest. Here, too, the Franc (55% of the blend) really shines. This is a stellar showing from the Vauthier family.Antonio Galloni | 97 AGThis is totally stunning, demonstrating depth, texture, salinity and flesh. It manages to be both austere and generous at the same time, pushing and pulling. It's a totally different conversation to many others wines this year. There was no frost effect here, although some of their other estates were fully wiped out. Harvested 23-29 September from 7.25ha planted at densities ranging between 6,500-12,600 vines per hectare. 100% new oak. Drinking Window 2027 - 2043.Decanter | 97 DECFrom a vintage compared to 2011 and 2014 by the estate, the 2017 Chateau Ausone is a classic blend of 60% Cabernet Franc and 40% Merlot that’s from the pure limestone hillsides just outside the village of Saint-Emilion. This full-bodied, elegant, almost Burgundian beauty offers a terrific seamlessness as well as lots of ripe cassis and black cherry fruits, notes of truffle-laced earth, tobacco, and crushed stone, ultra-fine tannins, and a great finish. This is classic Ausone, with its complexity and elegance paired with plenty of richness and depth. It needs 5-7 years of bottle age and will evolve for 2-3 decades.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDWith its perfumed Cabernet Franc and supple Merlot, this wine is packed with fruit and tannins. It is rich although the fruitiness is most apparent, a juicy wine that hides its structure in the cushioning fruits.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WERich and succulent, with a wide spectrum of black and blue berry aromas. Lovely balance of fine tannins, restrained richness, lively acidity and just a hint of oak. Long finish that has a delicate touch. Drink or hold. Château Quintus vertical tasting. SP.James Suckling | 94 JS

Hand-picked and sorted 1868 planting, 50% crushed, 45% whole berry, 5% whole bunch. You’d stand up for royalty, and that’s this wine. To use the spit bucket is lèse-majesté. Just savour it, drop by drop, as it magically finds its way down your throat. It’s got the full rainbow of cool-grown shiraz flavours, a conjunction with a year made for it by Dionysius and, glory be, comes with a screwcap. Drink to 2067James Halliday | 99 JH

Roses and lavender with other flowers. Peaches. Glorious fruit of dark plums and ripe strawberries. This is dense and intense but there are layers of very fine tannins, like fine cashmere. Goes on for minutes. Opens in the mouth. Almost endless. Three years in cask and two years in bottle before January 2023 release. Give this at least five to six years.James Suckling | 98 JSThis year’s top-end release from Bruno Giacosa is the 2017 Barolo Riserva Falletto Vigna Le Rocche (in the red label). Bottled in 2019, the wine stands apart thanks to a hot and dry growing season that Bruna Giacosa is very excited about. In fact, she prefers 2017 to 2015, although the two vintages do share similarities. This wine is very open-knit, and it reveals dark concentration in the form of ripe blackberry, candied cherry and spice. The tannins show a loose, granular quality that adds considerably to the textural impact of this Riserva.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThis supple red is elegant and powerful, driven by an underlying mineral element. Strawberry, cherry, rose, iron and wild thyme aromas and flavors persist, building to a long aftertaste, while dense, refined tannins lend support. Offers superb balance and length. Best from 2025 through 2045. 110 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WS

Composed of 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 1% Petit Verdot and 1% Cabernet Franc, yields for the grand vin in 2017 were 43 hectoliters per hectare, and it was aged in 60% new oak. It came in at an alcohol of 13% and an IPT of 68. Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2017 Cos d’Estournel needs a little coaxing to unfurl, revealing beautiful expressions of preserved plums, boysenberries, blackcurrant pastilles and wild blueberries with hints of Indian spices, menthol, lilacs and mossy tree bark plus a compelling suggestion of iron ore. Medium to full-bodied, the palate has a solid backbone of firm, grainy tannins and well-knit freshness supporting the tightly wound blue and black fruits layers, finishing long and fragrant. This wine will need a good 5-7 years in bottle before it begins to blossom and should go on for at least another 40 years. I expect this wine to be a blockbuster of a head-turner when I come back and taste it at 10 years of age!Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98+ RPQuite the bottle here! Spices, such as nutmeg and cinnamon, as well as dried meat and plums with cedar and sandalwood. Full body. Deep and dense in the center palate and a long, long finish. Shows finesse and tightness. Very polished tannins. Long and ethereal. Try after 2023.James Suckling | 98 JSA bold, dramatic wine, the 2017 Cos d’Estournel is seriously impressive today. Time in barrel has done wonders for the 2017, a wine that has really gained depth in élevage. Black cherry, chocolate, spice, new leather, licorice, smoke and incense infuse the 2017 with tons of character, with the 60% new oak very well judged. In 2017, Cos has a level of textural resonance that eludes many Saint-Estèphes. The blend is 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 1% Petit Verdot and 1% Cabernet Franc.Antonio Galloni | 95 AGThis impressive wine is structured yet well balanced by an attractive fruitiness that parallels the tannins and the smokiness from wood aging. The density of the palate is countered by fresh acidity that shines through. Drink 2024.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEBright and expressive, with an extroverted core of loganberry, plum and black cherry fruit racing to the fore, carried by a polished and sleek structure. Reveals a subtle mineral edge through the finish, with alluring black and red tea notes swirling around. The rare seductive St.-Estèphe. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2036. 15,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThe grand vin 2017 Chateau Cos D’Estournel checks in as 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, and 1% each of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot brought up in 60% new French oak. It’s a classic 2017 that shows the straight, very classic style of the vintage with its medium to full body, ripe, present tannins, and solid spine of acidity. Beautiful cassis, green tobacco, graphite, and cedar pencil notes all emerge from the glass, and as with the Pagodes, it’s still tight and reserved on the palate. Reminding me of the 1996 with its classic, balanced style, give bottles 5-7 years and enjoy over the following two decades.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDHad a few issues with brett on the first bottle of this, but tasted again (twice for reassurance) and this has an unmistakably rich ripeness to it. Successful polishing and rounding out of the tannins that works to override the austerity of the vintage far better than many. Cassis and spiced damson character abounds, and it opens up in the glass slowly but determinedly. 60% new oak. Plenty of ageing capacity on display. Drinking Window 2025 - 2045.Decanter | 94 DEC

There was no frost at d’Yquem in 2017, and botrytis was very regular and even this vintage. The nose opens with very pure notes of freshly sliced oranges, yuzu and lemon barley water with hints of white pepper, fresh ginger and lime cordial. The incredibly rich, unctuous sweetness (148 grams per liter of residual sugar) is beautifully marbled with bright, vivacious citrus fruit and spice flavors, while lifted by well-knit freshness, and it finishes with epic length and great depth.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97-99 RPThis is a great Yquem, delivering thrilling purity and intensity. The nose offers intense aromas of fresh and dried apricot and peach pastry, as well as freshly baked creme brulee, candied and fresh orange and kumquat. Some marmalade, too. Smooth, glossy texture with flavors of grilled orange, dried apricot and an exceptionally long finish with a powerful, driving push to the end. A flicker of toasty-oak influence arrives late, but this wine has completely consumed the oak. The 2017 Yquem is a very powerful wine from a very rich and exceptional vintage. The acidity has a big hand in balancing the richness. Pithy finish. The phenolics deliver some great depth. Rain at the beginning of September prompted an extensive infection of noble rot. The harvest lasted from September 26 to October 13. Great quality and one of the best since the legendary 2001. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 99 JSThe 2017 Yquem is destined to be one of my favourite recent vintages. It has brilliant delineation on the nose with acacia honey, saffron, white flowers and a subtle crushed stone element. So much energy is palpable. The palate is supremely well balanced, surfeit with energy, spicy and feisty and yet paradoxically beautifully controlled and pixelated towards the extended finish. It’s not unlike the brilliant 2014 in style. Tasted at the château. Vinous Media | 97 VMVery flattering and unctuous in feel, with coconut, creamed papaya, toasted hazelnut and warmed peach and tangerine cream flavors gliding along in unison, all framed by warm brioche and piecrust notes on the finish. Remarkably rich, yet poised and pure. Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Best from 2025 through 2045. 4,166 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WSStill very youthful with light golden colours, showing flashes of green in the glass. Intensely aromatic with tropical fruit notes, pineapple, roasted apricot, honey and lime zest. Full-bodied and rich on the palate with plenty of botrytis notes showing through. Although unctuous and weighty, this Yquem retains plenty of acidity which freshens the palate and balances the concentrated fruit. Sandrine Garbay noted that 2019 reminded her of 2017, with the 2019 showing a little more opulence. Served with a dish of roasted pollock and smoked mussels, this was a wonderful combination, showing the sweetness and purity of Yquem. Residual Sugar: 148g/L. (Drink between 2024-2050)Decanter | 95 DEC

This is really powerful and structured with superb muscle and phenolic tension. Yet, it’s formed and polished, layered and dense. Full-bodied, but energetic and focused. Vibrant acidity. Goes on for minutes. Citrus, stone, straw, salt and chalk. Incredible. Try after 2023.James Suckling | 98 JSThe grand vin, the 2017 Domaine De Chevalier Blanc is a more serious, concentrated, medium to full-bodied effort that has awesome notes of crushed citrus, white peach, lemon zest, and obvious minerality. With a touch of background oak, a great mid-palate, and stunning balance, give bottles 3-5 years and enjoy over the following two decades.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDThis shows a gently buttered frame around a core bristling with white peach, gooseberry, tangerine and verbena notes. Exhibits weight, tension and detail, with tarragon, chamomile and fleur de sel accents skittering through the finish. Seriously long and built to age. Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. Best from 2021 through 2032.Wine Spectator | 96 WSDomaine de Chevalier 2017 Pessac-Léognan. This wine is dense, with concentrated spice plus rich white and kiwi fruits. Acidity is prominent, giving the wine impressive fruitiness and aging potential as suggested by the texture and wood flavors.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEClosed on the nose to begin, the Domaine de Chevalier 2017 Blanc (composed of 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Sémillon) opens to aromas of ripe pears, Golden delicious apples and white peaches with notions of straw, honeysuckle and chalk. Medium-bodied, the palate is seriously intense and racy with loads of mineral sparks on the finish. It was aged for 16 months in French oak, 35% new.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPA wine of noble breeding and class, the 2017 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc dazzles from start to finish. Dried flowers, chamomile, mint and citrus confit struggle to emerge, buried by the wine’s sheer richness and concentration. The 2017 needs at least a few years in bottle to come together, but that won’t be an issue for a wine that will drink well for several decades.Antonio Galloni | 94+ AGSlightly reticent on the nose, with subtle creaminess and savoury spice. Full-bodied and opulent in style with vibrant acidity. (Drink between 2021-2028)Decanter | 90 DEC

The 2017 Gran Enemigo Gualtallary Single Vineyard didn’t show any heat or excess ripeness from a warm and dry year. On the contrary, it’s austere and has citrus acidity, with great freshness and minerality. The palate is super austere with vibrant acidity—by far the highest among the Gran Enemigo bottlings—and very fine, chalky tannins. This is remarkable, serious, balanced and fresh with a very, very long and salty finish. This fermented in barrels with 100% full clusters and indigenous yeasts and matured in centenary oak foudres for 15 months. 3,000 bottles were filled in July 2018.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPPretty aromas of plum, blueberry, rose hip, lavender, sandalwood and oyster shell. It’s medium-to full-bodied with silky, seamless tannins. So pure and elegant with gorgeous layers of cool blue fruit. Saline and coffee notes, too. Long and evolving. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2017 Cabernet Franc Gran Enemigo Single Vineyard Gualtallary has a 15% dash of Malbec from Gualtallary, Uco Valley and was 30% fermented in whole bunches before aging for 15 months in barrels and foudres. A rich, dense purple thanks to the altitude, the complex, ripe nose presents notes of sour cherry and blackcurrant along with country herbs, jalapeño and ash. Juicy and intense with a compact flow, the core resounds with freshness underneath finely grained tannins and an energy that keeps the wine going. The very definition of power and flavor in which the varietal has been shaped by the terroir.Vinous Media | 95 VM

Predominantly from within the cru of Cerequio on the border between Barolo and La Morra, Conteisa has been produced since 1996. The 2017 Barolo Conteisa has ripe aromas of red cherry, cinnamon, and licorice. The palate is forward and gushing with raspberry leather, iron-rich earth, and tobacco leaf. This is the most generous and giving of the three wines in this tasting, yet at the same time remains noble. Drink 2022-2042.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDFabulous aromas of ripe strawberry and raspberry with hazelnut and citrus follow through to a medium to full body with ultra-fine tannins and a racy and refined finish. It’s so fresh for the vintage and goes on for minutes. A classy and great wine. Better after 2025.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2017 Barolo Conteisa is rich, ample and inviting. Sweet pipe tobacco, cedar and dried flowers lend captivating aromatic presence to the Gaja family’s La Morra Barolo. Even so, the 2017 is quite closed today, which is rather unusual for a wine that is typically far more open in the early going. That’s probably a good sign for the future, though. Time in the glass brings out the classic Conteisa red-toned fruit profile. More than anything else, I am so impressed with how the 2017 gets better and better with air. This is a terrific showing. Sadly, production is down by about 50% because of severe selection.Antonio Galloni | 96 AGThe Gaja 2017 Barolo Conteisa opes to an immediate sense of dimension and textural width that distinguishes this hot growing season. In this case, that additional volume and power are expertly contained and refined in this wine with fruit from the Cerequio vineyard of Barolo. Cerequio saw hail damage in 2016 and was more fortunate this year; however, the site generally remains quite protected from extreme weather conditions (compared to its adjacent vineyards). This wine excels most noticeably in terms of mouthfeel. The finish is silky and long and those more astringent 2017 tannins are gracefully absent here.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95+ RPGaja manages two different plots in Cerequio, from where most of the grapes for Conteisa come. Both exposures - southeast and east - mark the character of this wine. If Sperss is the Yin, Conteisa would be the Yang: It’s dark fruited with black cherry and plum complemented by graceful wild herbs and mint, and a bloody, olive-like savouriness. Full-bodied and crisp, the tannins are firm, thick and dusty yet evolved. Drinking Window 2021 - 2040.Decanter | 95 DECExpressing balsamic aromas and flavors of soy, eucalyptus, wild thyme and tobacco, this Barolo also delivers ripe plum and cherry midpalate, with earth and tar accents rounding out the profile. Gruff tannins mark the finish, so be patient. Best from 2025 through 2045. 650 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WSAromas of French oak and roasted coffee bean lead the nose along with whiffs of pressed rose petal, eucalyptus and the barest hint of berry. The firm, full-bodied palate offers licorice, coconut, vanilla and dried cherry alongside assertive, close-grained tannins. You’ll also feel the warmth of alcohol on the close. Drink 2025–2032.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WE

Absolutely compelling, this arresting wine opens with classic Nebbiolo aromas of rose petal, camphor, star anise and wild berries. Structured but also smooth as silk, the firm yet elegant palate features ripe Marasca cherry, blood orange, licorice and white pepper framed in tightly woven, ultrarefined tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it well-balanced while a saline note lingers on the long finish. Drink 2027–2042.Wine Enthusiast | 99 WEThe charm of Vignarionda is its ability to express the austere character of Serralunga alongside stunning finesse. Giovanni Rossi, with his Ester Canale selection, is one of the vineyard’s best examples. Very pale ruby in colour (no garnet here!), it has restrained notes of rhubarb flavoured boiled sweets and earthy strawberry, with whiffs of cypress and rose petal . Firm, concentrated but polished, bracing acidity is followed by savoury strawberry and citrus flavours, with an amazing depth of watermelon rind, rhubarb root and liquorice. A sleek wine built to last. Drinking Window 2021 - 2040.Decanter | 97 DECThe core of cherry flavor runs deep in this intense red, along with notes of eucalyptus, licorice, iron and a hint of flowers. Retreats into a compact stance, with resonant tannins, yet there is an overall finesse and gracefulness that cannot be denied. Best from 2025 through 2047. 250 cases made, 25 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSThe 2017 Barolo Vigna Rionda comes across as a bit monolithic and closed, as if the aromas and flavors are not fully developed. Firm, edgy tannins suggest these vines may have suffered under the stressful conditions of the warm, dry growing season.Antonio Galloni | 92 AG

This is extremely aromatic and perfumed with crushed-berry, flower, currant and orange-peel character. Full-bodied, very tight and focused with fabulous depth and density that brings you down through the wine. Deep and serious. Very classic wine that reminds me of top Haut-Brions of the mid-1980s. Try after 2025.James Suckling | 98 JSThis will be a magnificent wine. Its structure, acidity and richness all show considerable potential. A crisp edge contrasts with the concentration and density that comes from the swaths of fruit. Wood aging has opened out the tanginess of a wine that will age over many years. Drink from 2024.Wine Enthusiast | 98 WEA hugely captivating wine, one of the contenders for red of the vintage. There's an incredible plush, dense texture to the fruit here, with just the slightest pulling back on the final section that suggests the damson, cassis and black cherry fruit is not at the full extent of ripeness seen in 2016 and 2015, but there is absolutely no question that this is a successful, rich and well-expressed wine. It's extremely powerful and well constructed, with great tannins and a succulence which grows through the palate. 3.73pH. Drinking Window 2026 - 2042.Decanter | 97 DECA blend of 53% Merlot, 6.3% Cabernet Franc and 40.7% Cabernet Sauvignon, the deep garnet-purple colored 2017 Haut-Brion sashays gracefully out of the glass with fragrant notions of black raspberries, kirsch, dark chocolate, star anise and candied violets with a core of warm red and black currants and a touch of pencil lead. Medium to full-bodied, the palate bursts with red and black fruit layers, superbly supported by firm, ripe, finely grained tannins and fantastic freshness, finishing very long and mineral laced.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe 2017 Haut-Brion is rich and virile, even in a vintage where it has less power than is the norm. My impression is that the 2017 is going to lie dormant for many years before it awakens, but its pedigree is quite obvious. Black cherry, plum, gravel, smoke, licorice and dark spice all burst out of the glass. The 2017 is a powerful, vertical Haut-Brion endowed with a real feeling of gravitas and somber intensity. The long, substantial finish suggests readers can look forward to many years of fine drinking.Antonio Galloni | 96+ AGFeatures red and black currant fruit flavors, laced with bramble, apple wood and anise notes, backed by a powerfully rendered finish. Despite the heft and density, this comes off as refined, with streamlined tannins, buried acidity and a long finish of incense and red tea elements. Not as dense and backward as the top years, but still exhibits pedigree. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2024 through 2040. Wine Spectator | 96 WSA more structured, straight, focused wine than the La Mission Haut-Brion, the 2017 Chateau Haut-Brion is based on a similar blend of 53% Merlot, 40.7% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 6.3% Cabernet Franc brought up in 69% new French oak. Plenty of cassis and red currant fruits as well as notes of tobacco, Asian spices, cedar pencil, and violets all emerge from this medium-bodied, elegant, nicely textured, and concentrated Haut-Brion. It's very much in the classic, sleek style of the vintage and has good acidity, plenty of polished tannins, and a great finish, yet not a massive amount of flesh or baby fat. This classic effort needs 7-8 years of bottle age and will have 30+ years of longevity.Jeb Dunnuck | 93+ JD

The 2017 Montrachet Grand Cru is slightly deeper in color. This has a gorgeous bouquet of lemon thyme, orange blossom and crushed stone, all very focused, followed by an emerging touch of mintiness. The harmonious palate is powerful, ripe and slightly vanilla-y; it just lacks a little breeding and panache. A bold and brassy yet cerebral Montrachet that will need a lot of time. This surpasses all my expectations from barrel. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Savigny-lès-Beaune.Vinous Media | 98 VMThis is youthfully restrained for now with exotic essence of lemon, lime and grapefruit. The intensity and purity of the aromas is really captivating. Strong, flinty minerals and stones, too. The palate has a very plush, richly textural and expansive feel with extremely powerful tension between exceptionally concentrated citrus fruit and extremely intense acidity. Wow! Try from 2022.James Suckling | 98 JSAs all of the vines for the Marquis de Laguiche Montrachet are on the Puligny side of the vineyard, the frost damage here in 2016 was less severe than was the case on the Chassagne side of this grand cru. Consequently, there was probably a bit less pent up energy here and the vigor was more easily harnessed in 2017. In any case, the 2017 vintage of the Marquis de Laguiche Montrachet is flat out brilliant, offering up a stunning bouquet of pear, apple, lemon, a hint of almond paste, complex, limestone minerality, crème patissière, vanillin oak and a lovely topnote of citrus zest. On the palate the wine is deep, pure, full-bodied and rock solid at the core, with superb nascent complexity, bright, vibrant acids and impeccable balance on the very, very long, racy and utterly classical finish. A brilliant example of Montrachet in the making.John Gilman | 97 JGThe 2017 Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche Grand Cru was showing very well indeed, unwinding in the glass with aromas of Meyer lemon, tangerine, dried white flowers, green orchard fruit, beeswax and wet stones. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, ample and expansive, with considerable volume and breadth at the core that’s balanced by lively acids that lend the wine energy and tension. The finish is long and pure. This is a beautifully balanced Montrachet that I expect to show very well in bottle.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94-96 RPThe Drouhins’ plantings are in the northern part of Montrachet - there’s even a plaque on the wall to show you where they begin - and were picked in three stages in 2017. This is plush and smooth, with less acidity and bite than some, but it’s spicy and dense with aromatic oak, a drizzle of honey, and pear and nectarine fruit. Drinking Window 2021 - 2027.Decanter | 95 DECThis is also quite aromatically restrained with its decidedly cool and relatively airy nose that mixes a dollop of wood toast with plenty of floral, citrus and white-fleshed fruit scents. The super-fine but intense and tautly muscular large-scaled flavors possess a subtle minerality that carries over to the gorgeously complex, persistent and balanced finish. As it should be, this is very clearly built-to-age and a wine that should enjoy an extended maturity curve.Burghound | 95 BH

Extremely enticing aromas of blackberries, brambleberries, sweet tobacco, bark and mushrooms follow through to a medium to full body that grows on the palate and crescendoes to medium, round tannins, juicy fruit and a long, flavorful finish. Rolls along the palate. Excellent, persistent finish. Try after 2024, but already a joyous glass.James Suckling | 98 JSMedium to deep garnet-purple colored, the 2017 L'Eglise Clinet begins a little closed and broody, soon unfurling to reveal powerful notes of baked black plums, chocolate-covered cherries and blueberry preserves with hints of chargrill, mocha and aniseed plus a touch of tar. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is a powerhouse of crunchy, vibrant black fruit, framed by wonderfully ripe, rounded tannins and oodles of freshness, finishing long and savory. Bravo!Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPThe 2017 L'Eglise-Clinet is dark, sensual and wonderfully rich. It opens with a silky, captivating bouquet laced with the essence of dried flowers, mocha, chocolate, spice and blackberry jam. While L'Eglise-Clinet is light on its feet for such a big, imposing wine, the 2017 is going to need a number of years to come into its own. Even in the early going, though, it is super-impressive. Revisiting it with a bit of air reveals a Pomerol of soaring intensity and explosive energy and vivid, striking beauty. I loved it.Antonio Galloni | 97 AGFor me, this is one of the successes of the vintage in Pomerol, although not fully escaping the roadblocks of 2017. There is a real sense of precision and elegance here, with floral, violet aromatics and a note of liquorice, and it deals its power in a measured way, one hand at a time - it's a wine to sit with and enjoy. There was no frost at this estate. The Merlot was picked between 12-22 September, and the Cabernet Franc on 22 September. The 70% new oak is a touch present on the close of play, but those tannins are pliable and enjoyable, promising to cradle the fruit for the long haul. Drinking Window 2027 - 2038.Decanter | 95 DECVery lush, with warmed fig, plum and blackberry preserve flavors rolling through, laced with ganache, alder and espresso notes. A tarry edge frames the finish, where the fruit drips slowly. For the hedonist crowd. Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2022 through 2038.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

The 2017 Ermitage le Meal Blanc starts with refined notes of crushed stone and pencil shavings that move into a whirlwind of lush fruit, ranging from pineapple through melon and pear. It’s rich, almost custardy in texture, yet it’s backed by mineral notes of crushed stone and delivers awesome freshness on the long finish. It’s an exhilarating ride. 508 cases produced.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPRich, bright and very detailed, this lets a panoply of Jonagold apple, green fig, white peach, chamomile, honeysuckle and acacia notes play out in unison, with a subtle brushstroke of warm short bread caressing the finish. Drink now through 2038. 38 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WSAs with all the whites from Chapoutier today, the 2017 Ermitage Le Méal Blanc has a kiss of reduction in its rich, full-bodied, powerful style, which gives the wine a more focused, backward style than normal. A huge nose of celery seed, caramelized citrus, honeysuckle, and turmeric as well as plenty of minerality all emerge from the glass, and this beauty gains depth and richness with time. Hide bottles for 3-4 years and it should keep nicely for two decades or more.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDPicked on 24 August, this Hermitage will spend nine months in demi-muid, one-third new. There’s some spicy curry leaf reduction on the nose, with quince and honey scents. The palate is full-bodied, rich and flowing, and the acidity is quite firm and somehow mildly serrated, adding structure. It’s long, assertive, and agreeably bitter on the finish - a very good wine in this difficult year for whites, with real energy, power, balance, freshness and longevity. Drinking Window 2021 - 2041.Decanter | 96 DECBrilliant yellow. An intensely perfumed bouquet evokes ripe citrus and pit fruits, anise and jasmine that are complemented by a building mineral overtone. Juicy and sharply delineated on the palate, offering densely packed tangerine, pear nectar and honeysuckle flavors that put on weight on the back half. Smoothly combines power and finesse, finishing on an emphatic mineral note, showing outstanding energy, tenacity and lingering florality.Vinous Media | 96 VMA beautifully rich and complex nose with lemons and limes, white and yellow peaches and a surge of spicy oak, roasted almonds and a flicker of reductive flint. The palate has seamless build and rich, deep-set, ripe-fruit flesh. Smooth, buttery and freshly cut at the finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JS

The clarity of the ripe blackcurrants, black cherries and flowers in the nose is entrancing. Lavender, too. It’s full-bodied with firm, silky tannins that run long and straight through the wine, providing brightness and focus. Goes on for minutes. Strength with finesse Drink after 2024, but already wonderful to taste.James Suckling | 98 JSThe 2017 Masseto is fabulous. A wine of tremendous inner perfume and sensuality, the 2017 dazzles from start to finish. Although not the most potent or structured Masseto, the 2017 impresses with its breathtaking finesse. The flavors are vibrant and remarkably pure from start to finish. Blackberry jam, bittersweet chocolate, spice, lavender and licorice all come alive in the glass. I have a hard time thinking of a Masseto with this much sheer allure at the outset. Masseto has so often been a wine of impact, but the 2017 says it all with finesse. It spent 22 months in 100% new oak, a bit less time than is typical, and finished its aging in tank, decisions taken to preserve as much freshness as possible.Antonio Galloni | 97+AGThe Masseto 2017 Masseto puts on another exhilarating, knock-out performance for the third year in a row. The Masseto vineyard is a triangular-shaped plot tucked in at the back of the same property that houses the Ornellaia vineyards and winery. This special site is located at the base of the mountains that rise gently from the Tyrrhenian Sea, with the picturesque silhouette of the Castiglioncello castle at the top. The vines are planted at an altitude of 80 to 100 meters above sea level in blue clay soils that are unique to Bolgheri. That ideal position opens the vineyards to soft breezes, proximity to the sea, long daylight hours and cool diurnal shifts from the protective wall of low mountains at the back. It's a little garden of Merlot Eden. The center of the vineyard now is home to the new Masseto winery and an adjacent tasting room built into a pre-existing farmhouse. This wine was made in the old winery (the existing Ornellaia winery). Fermentation kicks off in a combination of steel and oak tanks before the wine is racked over to barrique, where it rests for two years. The wine then goes into bottle for 12 months before its release. Like most vintages of Masseto tasted this early in the game, the oak is omnipresent, and it grounds the wine in terms of texture and structure. It is powerful, but that's always the case with Masseto (this vintage records a 15.5% alcohol content). I tasted this wine next to the decidedly more playful Massetino, and the Masseto moves over the palate with substantial fruit weight and concentration gained over the course of this hot and dry growing season (which produced smaller, richer and more compact berries). Perhaps, what this vintage lacks is that profound varietal character that we saw in recent vintages like 2016 and 2015. If concerned that the hot vintage would draw out too many ripe fruit tones, the oak serves to soften some of the more volatile components of the fruit. Those distinctive notes of macchia mediterranea (wild bush) that I always associate with Masseto are less present in this vintage. You feel the oak tannins on the finish with toast and vanilla that will certainly shed as the wine ages. In fact, I went back to taste the wine 12 hours later, and they had already softened considerably. This 2017 vintage will be released in October 2020.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThere's a meaty character to this intense, polished red, adding a seriousness to the dark plum, blackberry, iron, vanilla and chocolate flavors. A beam of bright acidity keeps this focused and drives the fruit- and spice-filled finish. Merlot. Best from 2022 through 2042. 300 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

The 2017 Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda is flat out stunning. All the purest essence of Rionda comes through in a captivating Barolo that dazzles. Sweet red cherry fruit, kirsch, rose petal, licorice and blood orange are some of the many aromas and flavors that lift from the glass. Exotic and racy, the 2017 is a flat-out stunner. Now, for the million dollar question. Is it better than the 2016? Right now, I give an edge to the 2017 for its greater finesse and total sense of exotic beauty. But time will be the judge. I do look forward to tasting the 2016 and 2017 side by side!Vinous Media | 98 VMThis is a gorgeous wine, and although it could stand more years of aging, you’re not wrong to enjoy it in the near or medium term either. The 2017 Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda is packed tight with dark fruit, but it also shows a delicately savory edge with black licorice and rusty metal. The wine’s intensity and the mouthfeel are sublime. Aging sees it go into botte for 36 months followed by another 36 months in bottle before its release. Production is 12,500 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPA traditional style with long fermentation and maceration in oak vats at a temperature of around 30°C, then aged in large Slavonian oak barrels for up to 42 months, followed by a further 24 months in the bottle. The nose is impressively fresh and vibrant, with a mix of white pepper, watermelon, wild strawberry and mint leaf. Less restrained than usual, on the palate the attack is firm, still young, and chewy, with brilliant long acidity and a cherry kernel finish. It deserves time to develop more complexity.Decanter | 96 DECThe 2017 Massolino Vigna Rionda Barolo Riserva has a super-bright clarity and intensity to its ruby color. On the nose, sweet red fruits combine with just-ripe cherry, wild rose and gentle cream notes but everything is beautifully restrained and elegant. On the palate it has a very lovely, silky and fine texture with flavors similar to the aromas. The tannins are super-refined but with plenty of chalky density - this vineyard is in Serralunga after all - a commune famous for its tannins! The finish is mouth-wateringly fresh. What a super-pure, bright and vivacious wine! Keep three to four years, but it will drink well for probably 35 to 40.The Wine Independent | 96 TWINotes of wild strawberries and sour cherries with dried flowers and chocolate orange undertones. Medium- to full-bodied, very polished and fine-grained, showcasing subtle notes of red fruit with a mineral backbone. Even and balanced with a textural finish. Great to drink after 2025 but will age further.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2017 Vigna Rionda from Massolino impresses with aromas of forest floor, leather, camphor, wild berry and a whiff of blue flower. It’s brooding and firm, featuring dried cherry, crushed mint, cake spice and tangy mineral framed in tightly-knit, fine-grained tannins. Surprisingly fresh acidity keeps it lifted.It’s a phenomenal showing for what was such a dry, scorching vintage. Drink 2029–2037. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KO

Very perfumed and subtle with dried flowers and citrus, as well as blue fruit. Full-bodied with wonderfully diffused, integrated tannins that just run over the edges of the wine. It’s extremely polished and very, very long. Fresh and bright. Energetic finish. A thoughtful wine. A blend of 54% merlot, 42% cabernet sauvignon and 4% petit verdot. Drink after 2023.James Suckling | 98 JSA blend of 54% Merlot, 42% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Petit Verdot, the deep garnet-purple colored, 2017 Palmer gives a very serious nose of pronounced blackcurrant cordial, warm plums and blackberry preserves with hints of cedar chest, pencil shavings, violets, dark chocolate and star anise plus exotic wafts of sandalwood and cassia. Medium-bodied, the palate features fantastically vibrant, crunchy black fruits with a firm texture of ripe, grainy tannins and tons of freshness, finishing very long and mineral laced. It will need a good 5-7 years to really blossom with all those tightly wound nuances, but it should be a stunner!Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97+ RPBeautifully powerful and precise with great depth and character to the fruit, despite the austerity that is more evident now than it was during En Primeur as the wine has begun bed down. These tannins are finely boned but they are plentiful, providing strength in numbers. Bottled end of August after 21 months of ageing. Clearly going to age well, this has concentration, intensity and seriousness where the Alter Ego is more gourmet. A precise and intellectual Palmer, a very fine example of the wine, with a sense of place and a purity to the fruit expression. Drinking Window 2024 - 2048.Decanter | 97 DECOne of the wines of the vintage on the Left Bank, the 2017 Palmer is fresh and vibrant, with tons of energy. Veins of supporting salinity and floral overtones lend grace to the Grand Vin in 2017. I imagine Palmer will only blossom with a few years in bottle. Time in the glass brings out pretty notes of dark fruit, mocha, spice, leather and licorice, but overall, the 2017 is quite reticent, especially given what readers have come to expect here. The blend is 54% Merlot, 42% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Petit Verdot. Technical Director Thomas Duroux told me his team harvested all the fruit in nine days as opposed to the more typical 2-3 weeks. The 2017s were done with no SO2 at crush. Duroux stopped the pump overs early and favored gentle extractions. Both wines are in the 13-13.2 range of finished alcohol.Antonio Galloni | 96+ AGThe grand vin 2017 Chateau Palmer checks in as 54% Merlot, 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 4% Petit Verdot brought up in 60% new French oak. This deep purple-colored beauty gives up more cassis fruits as well as hints of chocolate, graphite, smoked herbs, and crushed violets. Beautifully concentrated, rich, and full-bodied, it has a wonderful sense of elegance and purity, laser-like precision, building tannins, and a great finish. Give bottles a solid 7-8 years and it's going to evolve for 25-30 years or more.Jeb Dunnuck | 95+ JDFruit and supple tannins mingle in this balanced, classic wine. Black-currant flavors are lifted by the energetic acidity and the freshness of the crisp texture. This wine will develop easily, giving pleasure all the way. Drink from 2023.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEDark and winey in feel, with ample blackberry, plum and black currant compote flavors leading the way, while licorice snap, singed apple wood, black tea and dark earth notes fill in throughout. The finish is focused, showing a nice buried iron accent. A powerful version of Margaux and a strong effort in the vintage. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Best from 2023 through 2038.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

This is well-packed, offering the vivid plum, boysenberry, cassis and açaí berry fruit profile of the vintage, along with a dark edge of tar, baker’s chocolate and salted licorice that courses underneath. The long finish lets the fruit play out, keeping singed alder and chai spice hints in the background. Smolderingly seductive. Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Cão, Sousão and Tinta Roriz. Best from 2035 through 2060. 3,500 cases made.Wine Spectator | 98 WSThe 2017 Vintage Port is a field blend, mostly Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinto Cão and Sousão, aged for 18 months in old wood vats. It comes in with 99 grams of residual sugar. This was bottled in May 2019, about a month before tasting, but I made sure at least some of it had a lot of air. Aromatic, wonderfully fragrant and laced with eucalyptus, this then shows typical Noval focus and power. A couple of hours in a glass simply increased the power. More intense than the very fine 2016, it grips the palate and shows rather significant astringency. As wonderfully aromatic as this is, there the 2016 might have the edge.Too closed and muscular once past the aromatics, this rather dry Port needs some time. It is harder to read than the 2016 was, but this should overtake it in time. Have some patience with this one.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe 2017 Quinta do Noval Vintage Port was picked from August 21 to September 28 under perfect conditions. It has a tightly wound bouquet that requires a lot of aeration. Eventually it reveals fabulous, detailed aromas of cassis, bilberry jam, crushed stone and pressed violets, later hints of orange blossom and quince. The palate is pure class. Saturated tannins, wonderful structure but the headline is the intensity of fruit. I cannot remember a Noval with this penetration, almost overwhelming the senses as layers of effervescent black plum and cassis fruit segue into a spicy finish that fans out like there is no tomorrow. Is this the best Quinta do Noval ever?Vinous Media | 97 VMThe straight 2017 Vintage Port is stunning stuff. It packs serious power and richness while staying beautifully polished and, dare I say, elegant. Notes of crème de cassis and liquid blackberries define the attack, but it offers an incredibly layered, nuanced, complex style in its notes of herbes de Provence, violets, spicy wood, licorice, and Asian spice aromas and flavors. While it’s no doubt a full-bodied Port, it stands out just as much for its incredible polish, balance, and purity. This a brilliant effort is more approachable than the Nacional bottling yet is nevertheless going to evolve for 50-60 years or more on its flawless balance.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDBig grip in this wine with dark blackberries, blueberries and floral notes. Fine tannins. Ripe but sweet and pretty. Shows a lovely finish. Try after 2027.James Suckling | 97 JSNoval spills over into two valleys from Pinhão to Roncão which contribute two very different terroirs to the blend, though both predominantly south-facing. It displays heady Douro aromas of open, ripe, plummy fruit with a touch of dust and eucalypt, wild and aromatic. The palate is dense, smooth and seductive on the palate with firm, schistous tannins rising on to a fresh, linear finish. Beautifully defined and integrated. Just 3,500 cases declared. Drinking Window 2035 - 2060.Decanter | 96 DECThis is a solid wine with dark tannins and a definitely dry character that will allow it to age well. Its power and its density are impressive, with rich black currant flavors backing up the tannins. Drink from 2030.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEJet black, this shows the arid vintage in its desert-rose scents and in the umami savor of tiny dried black currants. There’s black-cherry density inside the concentrated tannins, which need a decade to begin to relax.Wine & Spirits | 93 W&S

Dried strawberry with some cherry, nutmeg and spice. Some dried meat, too. Full-bodied, chewy and rich with integration and focus. The tannins are really put together beautifully. Long and intense. Tight at the end. This needs at least four or five years to open. Try after 2025.James Suckling | 99 JSThe 2017 Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata is a pleasant, easygoing Barolo from Roberto Voerzio. Lifted, perfumed Rocche aromatics meld into a core of crushed red berry fruit, rose petal, blood orange and spice. The 2017 is a bit more nervy than most vintages, but the brisk tannins help convey a measure of freshness that is quite welcome in this vintage. The 2017 is a solid wine, but far from inspiring.Vinous Media | 90 VM

The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino La Cerbaiola grows in intensity in the glass, with delicate aromas that are especially floral and light in character. Instead of blackberry or blackcurrant, this elegant wine delivers cassis and cranberry. Instead of overt spice, you get licorice, balsam herb and camphor ash. The Salvioni house style is ethereal and light, and although that extra vintage ripeness and concentration does register on the palate, farming and winemaking at this estate puts an emphasis on acidity over power or structure. These choices were particularly important in 2017.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPRoses upon roses, wild strawberries, dusty cedar spice box, mint leaf and a hint of wet stone open the stage for the 2017 Brunello di Montalcino from Salvioni. This is beauty personified in wine, and it’s completely atypical for the harshly warm and dry vintage conditions. It fleshes out across the palate like fine silk, concentrated and poised, yet without a hard edge in sight, as cherries and plums give way to mounting minerality and sweet tannins toward the close. The 2017 boasts a crystalline structure and dramatic inner floral perfumes, as hints of cranberry and clove taper off. While this may not show the impeccable grace of the most classic vintages, it’s a darling all the same and has medium-term cellaring potential.Vinous Media | 94 VMWhen I visited Alessia Salvioni at the end of August 2017, she said the challenge for the imminent harvest would be avoiding dried grapes. The grapes were brought in on 12 September, approximately 10 days earlier than average. Aromas of sun-kissed cherries and blackberry speak to the warmth but there’s no sign of over-ripeness. Pepper, sage and cedar add fragrant intrigue, while the palate is surprisingly lean and sinewy, demonstrating Sangiovese’s lightness. Very direct in its delivery, its gritty tannins will need a bit of time but I don’t see this as one of Salvioni’s most long-lived vintages. Drinking Window: 2023 - 2029Decanter | 92 DEC

Wonderful aromas of blueberries, blackberries, mushrooms, pine and blackcurrants. Some violets, too. Full-bodied, yet so refined and polished with wonderful fruit and a linear tannin structure that integrates beautifully into the wine. It’s so balanced and beautiful. Hard not to drink now, but better after 2023.James Suckling | 98 JSThe 2017 Proprietary Red brings everything up a solid notch. Dense purple/plum-hued, with gorgeous, Graves-like nose of blackcurrants, chocolate, scorched earth, tobacco leaf, and gravelly earth, this beauty hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a polished, elegant texture, building yet sweet tannins, and a great finish. Very much in the style of the 2017 vintage with its nicely concentrated, elegant, reserved yet endearing style, it’s going to drink nicely for 20-25 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThe deep garnet-purple colored 2017 Proprietary Red sails out of the glass with open-knit, compelling scents of Black Forest cake, blackberry pie and black currant jelly with suggestions of Indian spices, garrigue, rose oil and sandalwood. The full-bodied palate is richly fruited and jam-packed with opulent black fruit preserves and exotic spice layers, framed by a wicked backbone of freshness and plush, well-managed tannins, finishing with impressive length and perfume.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPThe 2017 Sloan is very nicely done. As is typical of the year, Sloan is on the lighter side in 2017, and yet all the elements are impeccably balanced. Black cherry, spice, licorice, lavender and chocolate open with a bit of time in the glass. Soft, succulent and quite gracious, the 2017 will drink well with minimal cellaring. I suspect it will always retain some of the nervous tension that is to be expected for a wine made from fruit picked a bit earlier than would have been optimal and with fewer barrel ferments, both choices imposed by the fires that year.Antonio Galloni | 94 AG

This is one of those wines where your nose is in the glass for ages, enjoying the complex array of aromas that range from raspberries to dates, perfumed bark to polished wood, pressed flowers to fresh mushrooms. Full-bodied, dense and focused with fine, well-integrated tannins, plenty of fruit flavor and an endless finish. A joy to drink even now, but this will age gracefully for many a year.James Suckling | 98 JSThe 2017 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Sergio Zenato is totally classic to the Zenato style, with macerated cherries, raisins, sweet herbs, cocoa, black pepper and shavings of cedar. This deeply textural with a dense wave of mineral-encased dark red fruits and balsamic spice carried across a core of stimulating acidity. Mocha and clove mix with black currant and olive as the 2017 finishes dramatically long and potent. There’s simply so much going on here, and more is guaranteed to come with maturation. Also of note is that the 2017 clocks in at only 3.3 grams of residual sugar. This is as serious as they comeVinous Media | 97 VM