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A big, powerful, masculine Pomerol with a style not dissimilar from Le Gay, the dense purple-colored 2009 Gazin exhibits black currant, black cherry liqueur, coffee, roasted herb, an exotic Asian spice component, vanillin, creme caramel and toasty oak in its aromatics and flavors. From a vineyard near Petrus, Le Gay and La Fleur Petrus, it is full-bodied with licorice, earth, truffle and creme de cassis in the mouth. Give this powerful, backward 2009 an additional 6-8 years of cellaring and drink it over the following three decades.Robert Parker | 96 RPVery dark, spicy and mysterious, this is a concentrated and graceful Pomerol that shows what was possible in this vintage if everything was done right. The stunningly fine tannins drive the very long subtle finish. Drink or hold. (Horizontal Tasting, London, 2019)James Suckling | 96 JSThe 2009 Gazin has a very concentrated, high-toned bouquet with Merlot firmly in the driving seat, a mixture of black and blue fruit. The palate is rounded on the entry with supple tannin, succulent and glossy in style with macerated black cherries and salted liquorice towards the finish. This needs another year or two in the glass. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 2009 Bordeaux tasting.Vinous Media | 95 VMGazin has vines at the highest point in Pomerol, at just over 40m, right next to Petrus. This is a powerful, upright wine that’s just getting going at 10 years old. It was double-decanted for two hours before the tasting, which helped enormously compared to when I tasted it a few weeks ago. You can feel the tannins holding everything in place buy the quality and intensity of the fruit is unmissable. Drinking Window 2021 - 2040Decanter | 93 DECThis has it all in place—dark, smoldering tobacco and cocoa notes, rich plum sauce, braised fig and steeped black currant fruit, joined by lengthy, mouthcoating, tar-tinged grip. Still youthfully raw, though, so cellar for maximum effect. Best from 2014 through 2028. 5,541 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WSA smoky wine, its fruit submerged in the wood character. It does have weight, along with powerful, tight tannins. It’s a wine that will need many years.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE

An absolutely spectacular effort, the 2009 is one of the all-time great La Gaffelieres produced. One would have to go back to the 2005, 1947 or 1961 to find this level of quality from this ancient, historic vineyard planted adjacent to the walls of St.-Emilion, on the Cote Pavie. Dating back to the 1400s, this estate has been owned for over three centuries by the Malet-Roquefort family. Composed of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc (in the past it was two-thirds Merlot and the rest split between Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc), the 2009 reveals compelling elegance, tremendous intensity and opulence and more viscosity than one normally sees. Lots of kirsch, licorice, incense, truffle, asphalt, blackberry and cassis notes dominate the aromatics and flavors of this full-bodied, viscous, fabulously pure, flamboyant St.-Emilion. Drinking it now may be considered infanticide by some consumers, but it is already attractive, and should last for 3-4 decades.Robert Parker | 95+ RPBig and juicy with loads of ripe fruit and spice. Coffee and chocolate. Full. Powerful and intense. Exotic finish.James Suckling | 94 JSStraight down the line, this wine shows fruit and acidity. The tannins are relatively soft while the fruit is forward. Blackberries, coffee and licorice notes all come together.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEVery fleshy, with lush, velvety-textured plum sauce, currant paste and melted licorice notes, woven with toasty spice and backed by a dark chocolate bark note on the finish. Best from 2014 through 2023. 4,165 cases made.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

This wine has closed down somewhat since I had it from barrel and exhibits a firm, earthy, mineral-laced style. Made from 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, the ripe black raspberry and blueberry fruit are present, along with some sandy, loamy soil notes. The tannins are sweet, but very elevated, and the wine rich and long but currently somewhat austere and needing bottle age. Give it 2 or 3 years of cellaring and drink it over the following 15+ years.Robert Parker | 90+ RP

Very rich and lush, but also extremely refined, this has a lightness of touch that some top Pomerols of the vintage lack. That has a lot to do with the stunningly fine tannins that glide through the long super-fine finish. Better than ever. Drink or hold (Horizontal Tasting, London, 2019)James Suckling | 100 JSExceptional purity and a blockbuster nose of mocha, black cherry liqueur, mulberries and plums are followed by an extravagantly rich wine that seems to have a nearly endless finish. Truly haute couture of Merlot, so to speak, this wine has a finish that goes well past a minute, with wonderfully sweet tannins and a provocative, concentrated, broad mouthfeel that is remarkably luxurious. This is amazing stuff! It should drink well for 20-25 years.This is undeniably the greatest Le Pin I have tasted at such an infantile age. There are about 500 cases of this wine, which is made by the Thienpont family, the owners of Vieux Chateau Certan. One hundred percent Merlot, it continues to possess the exoticism of previous vintages, but the oak at present is far better crafted and integrated than in the debut vintage of 1979.Robert Parker | 100 RPThis is still very expressive, as is the vintage in general, with a core of glistening warm raspberry puree laced with anise, black tea and mineral notes. Brighter in profile than the ’10, and just as long. Harder to resist now, too, and just missing that little extra something through the finish that sets the ’10 apart. That’s splitting hairs though.--Non-blind Le Pin vertical (December 2015). Drink now through 2035. 400 cases made.Wine Spectator | 98 WSThe 2009 Le Pin has a very gorgeous, mellow bouquet with plenty of red fruit infused with leather, mocha and light Cuban cigar aromas. This is not a million miles away from Petrus. The palate is medium-bodied with velvety tannin, slightly lower acidity than its peers yet remaining balanced. Gains depth and complexity towards the finish with touches of cedar and sage. I love the way this fans out and lingers in the mouth. Not a perfect wine, but an outstanding Le Pin. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 2009 Bordeaux tasting.Vinous Media | 97 VMVoluptuous and silky, this is deceptively soft and open yet with singing acidity flowing through it, giving it grip. It’s extremely ripe and generous in fruit, with notes of ground coffee and cappuccino and great persistency. It manages to combine hedonistic appeal with thought-provoking moments, demanding that you slow down rather than gulping the whole glass. It manages to seduce without overpowering, but is certainly signature Le Pin. Drinking Window 2019 - 2046Decanter | 97 DEC(Château Le Pin) This will be the last vintage of Le Pin made in the quaint old chais in the middle of the vineyards, as plans are in place to modernize the facilities in the very near future. The 2009 Le Pin is a very good example of the vintage, as it offers up scents of ripe black cherries, black raspberries, chocolate, woodsmoke and spicy new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, fairly complex and impressively tangy, with a great core of fruit, plenty of ripe tannins and fine length and grip on the long and palate-staining finish. Le Pin has always had one hundred percent of its malo done in barrel, and it seems to me that one of the differentiating characteristics between this wine and the very greatest Pomerols such as Trotanoy or Vieux Château Certan is the less impressive signature of soil that seems to emanate from wines such as Le Pin in which all of their malos are done in barrique. This is certainly a superb wine, but it does not come close to moving me the way some of the other top estates in Pomerol have done with their monumental 2009s. (Drink between 2020-2060)John Gilman | 92-93 JG

Deep purple-ruby. Knockout nose of black cherry, minerals, coffee liqueur and violet offers uncommon depth and complexity. The flavors of blackberry, black plum and minerals are complicated by a note of iron and given wonderful clarity and cut by harmonious, vibrant acidity. Finishes very long and pure, with distinctive balsamic nuances. There’s lots of sweet fleshy fruit here but the wine comes across as amazingly refined and graceful thanks to its vibrant acidity, which really extends the flavors at the back. The best young Certan of the last 12 or 15 years.Vinous Media | 95 VMWonderful concentration here, the wine has the most powerful wood spice, ripe and mineral tannins. It is impressive in every way, showing the total richness of the vintage.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEA bruising, black/purple-hued, full-bodied wine, the 2009 Certan de May displays notes of charcuterie, smoked game, herbs, black truffles, roasted meats, cassis and black cherries. This backward, robustly-styled Pomerol is loaded with tannin as well as extract. Give this full, powerful 2009 a decade of cellaring and drink it over the following 30+ years. I’m sure it is not better than the immortal 1982 Certan de May.Robert Parker | 93+ RP(Château Certan de May) In recent vintages Certan de May has been a bit too new oaky for my own personal tastes, but underneath the veneer of spicy new wood has always been the same excellent wine. Happily, the 2009 seems quite a bit toned down on its percentage of new wood and the wine was singing during En Primeur week. The bouquet is deep and really outstanding, as it offers up a complex and vibrant mélange of black raspberries black cherries, chocolate, lovely minerality, woodsmoke and a discreet framing of cedary oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, ripe and fleshy, with a rock solid core of fruit, firm tannins and excellent length and grip on the pure and already quite complex finish. A very fine vintage for Certan de May- I only hope that the wine does not become more marked by its new oak as it continues its elevage in the cellars, as it would be a pity to lose any of its vibrancy and nascent complexity to more oak tones. (Drink between 2017-2050).John Gilman | 91-93+ JGBright and ripe, with mouthfilling linzer torte and blackberry preserves pushed by black tea and toasty spice. This has the racy grip of the vintage, which builds steadily through the finish. Turns darker and denser with air. Best from 2014 through 2028. 2,250 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

The basic Fontenil (95% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon) has a deep bluish purple color and relatively hefty alcohol at 14.5%, but it is not noticeable in this full-bodied, layered, opulent wine, with lots of black raspberry fruit intermixed with some blueberries and crushed rock. Both of these wines have a good 10-15 years of potential in a fine cellar.Robert Parker | 92 RPThis has ample flesh, with a mouthfilling feel to the linzer torte, blackberry confiture and spice notes, all backed by sweet tobacco and fresh acidity on the finish. Very solid. Drink now through 2019.Wine Spectator | 91 WSAttractive blackberry and mineral aromas and flavors, follow though to a full body, with well-integrated tannins and a medium finish. Try in 2016.James Suckling | 91 JSA very smoky character, with an attractive lightness. The fruit is bright, even though there is richness. The tannins give a dark, dry aftertaste. Wine Enthusiast | 91 WE

Lots of blackberries, sweet tobacco and violets on the nose. Black tea. Full-bodied yet tight and very focused. Structured with very precise tannins. A beautiful and focused wine. Needs two or three more years of bottle age but gorgeous.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2009 Château La Dominique is a beauty, offering a ripe, plush, sexy, and full-bodied style that still has a terrific sense of purity and elegance. Notes of red and black currants, white truffle, lead pencil, and sous bois all emerge from this classic Saint-Emilion, which has ripe, sweet tannins, a great mid-palate, and the balance and class to continue evolving for another 10-15 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDThe third vintage produced by the new team that is trying to take this irregular estate adjacent to Cheval Blanc to new heights is the 2019 La Dominique. Offering up aromas of sweet berries, cherries, mocha and spices, it’s medium to full-bodied, velvety and seamless, with juicy acids, supple tannins and an elegantly gourmand profile. This is a terrific effort that shows that this estate’s fine performance in vintages such as 1998, 1990 and 1989 is not a thing of the past.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPA charmer of a wine, all fruit and sweet tannins. It is dense, the flavors going right down into the core of the wine and bringing back beautiful red perfumed fruits. La Dominique, next door to Cheval Blanc, is now performing well.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WE