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I tasted this at a separate 67 Pall Mall event a few months ago, and it has delivered just as well this time around - impressive for a 30-year-old wine, as bottle variation is inevitably a concern at this age. Yet again it sings out with its concentration and opulent, silky blackberry and cassis fruits. The finish is lifted, with a white pepper note giving an extra kick to the juice, although there are plenty of tertiary hints in the toasted walnut notes. July, August and September of 1989 were stunning, with 13% more sunshine than average across all three months. Cheval always gets an early start to harvest, but this was the earliest of the 20th century to this point, running from 7 to 27 September, with a yield of 50hl/ha. It was owned by the Hébrard family at the time, with Gilles Pauquet as consultant. Drinking Window 2019 - 2032Decanter | 98 DECThe 1989 Cheval Blanc is a vintage that I have not encountered since 2010. One bottle opened was rustic and fatigued, and Pierre-Olivier Clouet opened a second that was much better. It has a gorgeous bouquet of ample red fruit, morels, black truffle, cigar box and hints of brown sugar, all very well defined and charming. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin and approaching full maturity; brown spices, bay leaf and clove infuse the red berry fruit. At 30 years of age, I suspect this 1989 will not improve further, but its robustness suggests that any decline will be graceful. Tasted from an ex-cellar bottle at the château.Vinous Media | 95 VM(Château Cheval Blanc) The 1989 Cheval Blanc is a beautiful example of the vintage, offering a deep, complex and utterly classic nose of dark berries, black cherries, menthol, cigar ash, gravelly soil tones, woodsmoke and a base of toasty new wood. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very pure on the attack, with a rock solid core of sappy fruit, outstanding soil inflection, superb complexity and a very, very long, youthful and ripely tannic finish. While this wine is not particularly far away from fully blossoming and will be quite drinkable with another four or five years of cellaring, I would be very strongly inclined to not touch a bottle for at least another decade, as I would love to see this wine in the same magical spot as the 1983 Cheval is today. (Drink between 2016-2050)John Gilman | 94+ JGRipe, almost cooked fruit, with nuts, raisin and spices. Full-bodied, with a dense palate of ripe fruit and a leathery, spicy, dried berry character. So long and powerful. Chewy. This is big and very juicy, with loads of powerful fruit. A little alcoholic, even rustic, but I like it.—’89/’99 Bordeaux blind retrospective (2009). Drink now.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

You probably remember I am a great fan of 1998 Bordeaux, but only Right Bank and Pessac-Leognan. Well, here is another beauty and it shouldn’t cost an arm and a leg! It’s drinking beautifully now with very fine aromas of chocolate and beer. It’s full body, with ultra-fine tannins and a juicy, succulent finish. Drink now. Decanting an hour would help.James Suckling | 92 JSAn opaque blue/purple color is accompanied by a sensational bouquet of melted fudge, plums, Asian spices, blackberries, and prunes. Smoky, barbeque-like spices also emerge with airing. Full-bodied, super-extracted, rich, pure, and mouth-saturating, this large-scaled effort can be consumed with pleasure, but it will age for two decades. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2020.Robert Parker | 92 RPIntense aromas of black olive and blackberry, with a hint of grilled meat. Full-bodied, with chewy tannins and a long, rich finish. Very powerful and rich. Just starting to come around.--’88/’98 Bordeaux blind retrospective (2008). Drink now.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

Hail on 1 July took 40% of the crop from half of Figeac's 40ha vineyard. Harvest ran from 23 September to 13 October. I last tasted this vintage in a vertical at the estate a few years ago, and it's every bit as good today. It's getting to that perfect moment to drink, when you just sink into it. It has a rich and complex nose of blueberries and cassis, rippled through with leather, cigar box and exotic spices. The tannins are soft and almost nutty, but this is still a vibrant wine full of life, sumptuous with great concentration.Decanter | 98 DEC(Château Figeac (St. Émilion)) The 1998 Château Figeac is one of the greatest young vintages from this property in the last twenty-five years and the wine continues to show stunning potential. It is a far cry from ready to drink, but it is getting to that stage where it is awfully tempting to start opening bottles! The deep and stellar bouquet jumps from the glass in a sappy blend of black cherries, red plums, Cuban cigar wrapper, a great base of soil tones, chocolate, still a bit of Figeac’s youthful herb tones, toasty new oak and a topnote of St. Émilion nutskin. On the palate the wine is pure, full and sappy at the core, with excellent soil signature, ripe, seamless tannins and outstanding focus and grip on the very long, complex and perfectly balanced finish. A gorgeous bottle of Figeac that still deserves at least a few more years in the cellar to really hit its apogee. (Drink between 2021-2075)John Gilman | 95 JGPretty blackberry, with black olive on the nose. Full-bodied, with fine tannins and a delicate fruit, dark chocolate and coffee aftertaste.—'88/'98 Bordeaux blind retrospective (2008). Best after 2010.Wine Spectator | 91 WSAs befitting a wine with considerable Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc in the blend, this is a stylish, mid-weight effort with an opulent, complex bouquet of licorice, Asian spices, tobacco, and fruit cake. Obvious black currants, smoke, vanillin, and new saddle leather are prominent in the wine's beautifully-knit flavors. This opulent, rich, concentrated, layered, pure, complex 1998 reveals low acidity as well as ripe tannin, suggesting it will be impossible to resist young. Anticipated maturity: now-2016.Robert Parker | 90 RPThe 1998 Figeac, now at 20 years old, was a vintage that was affected by the hailstorm during the summer. This bottle is more open than the magnum poured at the vertical in 2015, but the aromatic profile is the same with rustic red berry fruit, ferrous notes and just a touch of juniper berry. The palate is medium-bodied with solid tannin that have softened in recent years, grainy in texture with a linear, Cabernet-driven finish that denudes this Figeac the opulence of its peers. It is a fine Figeac although it would not be in the top drawer of vintages. Tasted at the château.Vinous Media | 90 VM

The luxury cuvee from Faugeres (owned by Bernard Magrez), the 2000 Peby Faugeres is the real deal. Sadly, only 500+ cases were made of this compelling St.-Emilion. An inky/blue/purple hue is accompanied by aromas of espresso roast, blueberry liqueur, smoke, and graphite. Thick and unctuously-textured with impressive purity and depth as well as full-bodied power and richness, it needs another 2-3 years of cellaring, and should last for two decades.Robert Parker | 96 RPThis jumps out of the glass, with berry, Indian spices and raspberry character on the nose. Full-bodied, with supersilky tannins and a caressing texture. Slightly short on the finish. A bit too much wood, but impressive. Best after 2008. 1,665 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WSNice berries and cherry character on the nose that opens up to hints of green tea and a stemmy undertone. Full-bodied, with good fruit and a soft finish. Go ahead and pull the cork on this one.James Suckling | 90 JSImpressive saturated ruby. Roasted black cherry, dark chocolate, mocha and espresso on the nose. Lush and silky on the palate, with intense, nicely delineated dark berry and torrefaction flavors. Impressively concentrated and rich. Dense, vinous and solidly structured wine, with plenty of extract to support the firm tannins. Finishes with excellent length.Vinous Media | 90-91 VM

This is amazing for the vintage. Full and silky, with velvety tannins. Long and rich, with a bright fruit character -- think black figs. The Cabernet Sauvignon gets to 35% of the blend in this vintage. This is delicious now, but it will be much better in five years. Pull the cork in 2015.James Suckling | 94 JSThis has a roasted, grippy-edged feel, with plum skin and licorice root notes framing the core of blackberry, fig and black currant confiture flavors. A touch chewy, but a strong tobacco accent lends this a hint of freshness. Shows the teetering balancing act of the vintage.—Blind '01/'03/'05 Bordeaux retrospective (December 2017). Drink now through 2032. 8,333 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WSThe famously hot vintage, and a wine I have been lucky enough to try many times. It is still holding up, showing deeply spiced and exotic notes - more furniture polish and dried herbs than in many vintages, but strangely sexy because of it. The relatively low alcohol suggests impact of the Cabernets as well perhaps as some blocking because of the heat, but this is a great wine for drinking today, full of generosity and pleasure. Drinking Window 2017 - 2030Decanter | 92 DEC(Château Figeac (St. Émilion)) I have only tasted the 2003 vintage at Figeac on a single occasion, which was as part of a vertical back at the property on one of my last trips to the region to taste en primeur. While the note is a bit out of date now, I was quite favorably impressed with the wine and include the note here, as I have never written this wine up previously. The bouquet back in the spring of 2012 was really quite good, offering up a deep and fairly exotic blend of mint, sappy black cherries, dark plum, singed tobacco, chocolate and nutty new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and quite plush on the attack, with very low acids, a very good, sappy core and a long, slightly chewy and quite smoky finish. There is a slightly dry edge to the tannins here that will probably always be part of the equation to some extent (as is the case with many 2003 Burgundies for instance), but this is a very good example of the vintage and one of the few 2003 clarets that I would be happy to drink any time. It was still a few years away from really drinking well back in March of 2012, but should be softened up nicely by now. (Drink between 2018-2040)John Gilman | 91 JG

Tasted from barrel in 2005, this was among the best wines of the vintage, with limestone-soil character coming through the fresh brightness of fruit. Ausone was all potential energy then, and it has only improved in the two years since. The wine shares the resonant depths of the ancient limestone caves at Ausone, as the flavors echo through the finish. It starts off from a small place, a sweet confection that brings roasted blueberries to mind, the caramelized oak tasting like the edge of charred fat on extremely fine grilled beef. Over the course of several days, the wine becomes increasingly more subtle and serious in tone, with delicate red fruit, gracious mineral-inflected tannins and detailed flavors that last effortlessly. This Ausone will live for decades.Wine and Spirits | 98 W&SPretty aromas of crushed blackberry, with hints of ash and light earth. Full-bodied, with ultrafine tannins and a long, caressing finish. Goes on and on. Such class. Sleek and racy. Best after 2012. 1,500 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WSOne of the vintage’s most compelling wines (what’s new about that?), Alain Vauthier’s beloved 2004 Ausone has closed down considerably since I tasted it out of barrel, but it remains among the most concentrated wines of the vintage. Furthermore, along with Petrus, it will probably be the longest-lived. A dense purple color is accompanied by a celestial perfume of blue and black fruits, wet stones, flowers, and incense. On the palate, the wine exhibits exceptional power and concentration, but this historic terroir has also provided a surreal lightness to the wine’s impression. Beautiful flavors, sensational depth, and abundant structure suggest this 2004 will not be close to full maturity for 8-10 years. It should last for four decades.Robert Parker | 94+ RPGood deep ruby. Currant, minerals and nutty oak on the nose. Lush, sweet and pliant on the attack, then more closed in the middle palate, with a chewy, rather serious texture and impressive density for the year. The black fruit flavors are complicated by minerals, dark chocolate and mocha. Finishes with a rather powerful tannic spine that will require a good decade of patience. I can envision the 2006 evolving in a similar direction.Vinous Media | 93+ VM

One of the most distinctive wines made in Bordeaux, Le Dome has one of the highest percentages of Cabernet Franc of any claret I can think of. Composed of 80% Cabernet Franc and 20% Merlot, it exhibits a certain delicacy and elegance (due to the Cabernet Franc component) in addition to resounding power, concentration, depth and multidimensional personality. Black/purple to the rim, it offers strikingly intense notes of spring flowers, raspberries, mulberries and wood smoke, medium to full body, sweet tannin and a cunning intensity and texture that suggest finesse and delicacy. However, the wine’s richness, length and lingering depth build incrementally in this exceptional St.-Emilion. It will be drinkable in 4-5 years and should age for two decades or more. This is Jonathan Malthus’ finest wine to date.Robert Parker | 99 RP(mostly cabernet franc): Bright medium ruby. Knockout nose combines black fruits, bitter cherry, licorice, violet and crushed rock. The wine’s great energy and vibrancy give it buns of steel, with the fine-grained black fruit, violet and licorice flavors conveying a strong impression of dry extract. Tannins are firm but fine on the extremely long, gripping finish. Wonderful elegance allied to great thrust here. The best wine I’ve tasted to date from Jonathan Maltus, but then all of his 2009 releases are outperformers.Vinous Media | 95 VMA gorgeously perfumed wine, dominated by the ripest Cabernet Franc, combining richness and an intense structure. With its tannins, it will age well over many years. The fruit is finely textured, deliciously juicy, showing the most complex series of flavors.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WELoads of blueberries, with hints of wet earth and fresh mushrooms. Full-bodied, with layers of ripe tannins and juicy fruit. Goes on for minutes. Best wine from this estate ever. Try after 2018.James Suckling | 95 JS

Delivers blueberry and blackberry aromas, with hints of dark chocolate. Full-bodied, featuring chewy, rich tannins and a beautiful velvety texture. This is superb. Really structured.Wine Spectator | 95-98 WSThis is always made with the young vines. Full-bodied, with super velvety tannins and gorgeous mineral, dark berry and spice character. Lovely velvet texture. Amazing quality for a second wine. Best in 2017.James Suckling | 96 JSRich and smooth, with some juicy character, the fruit with black cherries, licorice and sweet jam. At the level of many top wines, this is the second wine Château Ausone.Wine Enthusiast | 92-94 WERepresenting nearly half of the production, this estate’s second wine, the 2009 La Chapelle d’Ausone, is an extraordinary effort. Better than many of the grand vins made during the 1970s and 1980s, it is an equal part blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc revealing an inky/blue/purple color along with notes of incense, blueberries, raspberries and crushed rocks (which give the wine a distinctive minerality). Medium to full-bodied as well as exceptionally pure, broad and opulent, it should drink well for two decades or more.Robert Parker | 92 RPBright ruby. Cool, complex aromas of cassis, licorice, Thai basil, fresh herbs, gingerbread and coconutty oak. Bright and firm, even a bit youthfully ungiving, but juicy and penetrating, with an exhilarating note of Asian spices. Very tight and firm on the long, vibrant back end. A second wine with a very strong personality of its own.Vinous Media | 91 VM(La Chapelle d’Ausone) The second wine of Ausone is a very classy and thoroughly modern wine that will drink well with five or six years of bottle age. The nose is deep and complex, as it offers up scents of black cherries, cocoa, vinesmoke, fresh herbs, espresso, soil and new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and tangy, with a really impressive base of soil for a more modern styled wine. The finish is long and shows just a bit of firm tannin that will want resolution. A extremely impressive second wine. (Drink between 2016-2035)John Gilman | 87-90 JG

Soft red fruit and fresh coffee. Some chocolate and spice. Beautifully textured fruit on the palate with a bright acidity and velvety tannins. Very long and smooth finish. So enjoyable already. Best ever from here? Better in 2015.James Suckling | 92 JSThis has a really nice graphite frame that drives the core of fig, plum and boysenberry fruit authoritatively, with dense ganache, espresso and tar on the finish. The grip is keeping things tight now, but this should meld in the cellar, as the underlying feel is energetic. Best from 2015 through 2025. — JMWine Spectator | 92 WSThis is one of the better, more supple Fombrauge wines to date, with a better integration of toasty oak than I have usually seen at this stage of this wine’s development. The grapes were picked late, with the harvest finishing on October 22, and that has given the wine wonderful ripeness and plenty of chocolaty espresso notes intermixed with incense, black cherries and black currants. The oak is subtle, and the wine full-bodied, attractive, deep, round and generous. Drink it over the next 10-12 years.This significant estate in St.-Emilion, with one of the biggest, if not the largest, vineyards in Bordeaux, has produced a wine composed of 80% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc and 8% Cabernet Sauvignon.Robert Parker | 91 RP

An absolutely magnificent wine from Christian Moueix and his son Edouard, this wine is right up there with their 2009 and may eclipse it in terms of its potential longevity. Dense purple, with a near-liqueur of crushed rocks and chalk intermixed with blueberry, black raspberry and cassis, this wine is very full-bodied for a Belair, with ethereal complexity and impressive texture and length. I believe this is the first vintage of the wine to be released in an engraved bottle, which seems to be the direction of all the top estates in the Jean-Pierre Moueix stable. More evidence of concerned Bordelais attempting to stop criminals intent on producing fraudulent bottles of these limited production wines. Forget this baby for 7-8 years and then look for it to evolve over three decades-plus.Obviously, the Moueix family has been investing considerable money and effort into this famous vineyard, which was one of Bordeaux’s most notable underachievers for many decades. It is certainly back now, with yields cut drastically, and the fruit harvested at a much riper stage, producing a wine that truly exploits this great terroir adjacent to Ausone.Robert Parker | 96 RPAromas of berries, chili and a hint of toasted oak. Full body, with velvety tannins and a long, long finish. Juicy and beautiful. Really builds on the palate. One of the best wines ever from here. Super quality. Try in 2018.James Suckling | 95 JSA big, complex wine from this continually improving property, this is now performing at its classed-growth level with concentrated ripe berry fruits and chocolate flavors. The wood aging is still showing through and needs time to integrate better, but as it does, this will be a great wine.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WESolidly built, with the chalky spine running from start to finish, while the core of red currant, raspberry and black cherry fruit is held in reserve. Shows a lovely floral flash through the finish, where the chalky edge really starts to emerge.—Non-blind Bélair-Monange vertical (December 2016). Best from 2020 through 2035. 1,350 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WSAn exceptional vintage, clearly, the 2010 has power, depth and concentration that’s far more evident than in the 2009, dominated by rich, brambly fruits, liquorice root and dark spices. At this point in time, the vineyard work was starting to reap rewards. A number of difficult plots had been pulled up and the new owners had begun to understand better the needs of the vineyard. ’We were learning how to work with the difference between the austerity of the limestone plateau and the more powerful clay on the slopes’, is how Edouard Moueix puts it. It’s perhaps not yet fully expressing the lyricism of the limestone as it does in more recent years, but there’s an awful lot to celebrate here. It needs double-decanting to really show itself, but is definitely at the start of its drinking window. Drinking Window 2020 - 2038Decanter | 94 DEC(Château Bélair-Monange) The 2010 Château Bélair-Monange is another powerful wine in the making, but today it is most noteworthy for its sense of restrained structural integrity. I noticed in my literature that the malolactic fermentation took place partially in new oak barrels this year at Bélair-Monange, and this seems to me to be a bit of a departure from previous practices here (though I may just be ill-informed on this matter). In any case, the 2010 Bélair-Monange is very promising. The bouquet is deep, closed and nicely reserved, as it wafts from the glass in a complex blend of black cherries, dark berries, woodsmoke, coffee bean and a complex base of chalky soil tones. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and absolutely rock solid at the core, with lovely complexity waiting in the rings, ripe, firm and beautifully integrated tannins and great length and grip on the still very primary finish. Like its stable-mate, Château Magdelaine, 2010 may well be a vintage at Château Bélair-Monange where extended bottle age will allow the ripe fruit of the vintage to recede into the background a bit and the great terroir of this estate to play a greater role in its aromatic and flavor profile. (Drink between 2025-2075)John Gilman | 93+ JGThe 2010 Belair-Monange has a ripe and candied bouquet with touches of boiled sweets and liquorice infusing the opulent red fruit. The palate is full-bodied and sinewy with ample red and black fruit, white pepper and Chinese 5-spice notes. Just when I think it is going to kick on towards the finish, it just loses a bit of momentum and seems to run out of ideas. Enjoyable, but not really the archetypal Right Bank. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners 10-Year On Bordeaux horizontal.Vinous Media | 90 VM

A hold onto your hat wine, the 2015 Château Figeac is pure perfection and one of the wines of this terrific vintage. A blend of 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot and 28% Cabernet Franc, its deep purple color is followed by a huge nose of crème de cassis, black raspberries, smoked earth, and graphite. This is followed by a full-bodied, opulent and incredibly concentrated Saint-Emilion that has everything in the right places, no hard edges, thrilling purity of fruit, and a great, great finish. This is one of those rare gems that carries huge intensity and richness, yet still glides across the palate with no sense of weight or heaviness. Winemaker Frédéric Faye thinks the 2016 is even better but that certainly isn’t stopping me from giving this crazy good wine a triple digit score. Everyone owes it to themselves to try and taste this wine at least once!Jeb Dunnuck | 100 JDIntense, yet extremely precise nose of red fruit with hints of pomegranate and vanilla. Stunning balance of great ripeness and very fine tannins that give this a wonderfully rich and plush texture at the very long and lingering finish, which gives you so much to think about. Drink or hold. Château Quintus vertical tasting.James Suckling | 99 JSDominated by the two Cabernets—Sauvignon and Franc—this is a beautifully structured wine. Firm tannins and ripe black currants give a perfumed character that is ripe, dense and impressive. The wine has enormous potential, with great tannins and fruit. Drink from 2027.Wine Enthusiast | 98 WEThe recent leaps and bounds in improvements that have occurred at this great estate, equating to a dramatic increase in intensity and complexity—without compromising the husky, soft-spoken, sultry voice that is Figeac—is a monumental achievement. Kudos to Frederic Faye and his team for so beautifully expressing what was clearly an extraordinary vintage at Chateau Figeac! Blended of 29% Merlot, 43% Cabernet Sauvignon and 28% Cabernet Franc, the deep garnet-purple colored 2015 Figeac reveals vibrant black cherries, cassis, red currants, black plums and licorice notes with touches of cigar boxes, bouquet garni, potpourri, damp soil and black pepper. Medium-bodied, delicately crafted and with nuanced, quietly intense layers of vivacious red and black fruits, the palate features a solid frame of polished, rounded tannins and seamless freshness, finishing long and minerally.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97+ RPThe 2015 Figeac is a step up from the 2014 with exquisite scents of red berry fruit, incense, rose petal and crush stone. Pixelated with wonderful precision. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, wonderful backbone allied with a sense of symmetry. It is more saline than previous vintages, with saliva flowing after the wine has exited. One of the standouts from the Right Bank in this vintage. Tasted at the château.Vinous Media | 97 VMThis is rich and exuberant, showcasing the warmth of the vintage. It’s still basically a primeur wine with beautiful blue-violet reflections, although it was bottled in April and will stay at the estate until January 2018. With silky-smooth tannins, this is a seriously elegant and delicious wine. The coffee stained palate is full of rich black cherries, tight cassis and finely grained tannins. The 2016 has just a touch more focus but that is splitting hairs, as both are exceptional vintages at Figeac. This has real persistence and a mouthwatering quality on the finish, a seriously enjoyable wine that never tries to overpower or show off.Decanter | 97 DECDensely packed, with crème de cassis, raspberry reduction and plum sauce flavors allied to notes of loam, warm cast iron and roasted apple wood. Shows terrific cut and energy, with the iron element helping to push the finish along and letting the fruit linger. Among the more backward wines of the vintage, so patience is required. Best from 2028 through 2045. 8,333 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WS