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The 2019 Marsannay Champs Saint-Etienne is much more backward on the nose compared to the Marsannay Village, slightly earthy black fruit and sous-bois emerging with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a fresh, citrus-driven opening, tangy marmalade infusing the black fruit, and graphite toward the tensile finish. I appreciate the focus and harmony of this cuvée, which should age well in bottle.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM(Marsannay “Champs Saint Etienne”- Domaine Joseph Roty) The Champs Saint Etienne bottling from the Roty family is made from a parcel of vines that are over fifty years of age. The 2019 version is another excellent Marsannay in the making, delivering a fine bouquet of black cherries, red plums, smoked meats, a fine base of soil, a touch of cocoa powder, gentle new oak tones and an exotic (at least from Marsannay) floral topnote that recalls both lavender and eucalyptus. On the palate the wine is complex, pure and full, with excellent mid-palate depth, lovely soil signature and balance, refined tannins and a long, complex and quite classy finish. (Drink between 2024-2050)John Gilman | 91 JGThe 2019 Marsannay Champs Saint Etienne is showing well, revealing aromas of sweet red berries, rose petals and licorice, framed by a discreet touch of oak. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, with lively acids and fine, chalky tannins, it’s mineral and precise, as it so often is.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RP

The 2019 Marsannay Clos de Jeu is limpid in color. It presents an enticing mix of red and black fruit, rose petal and violet aromas. The palate is fleshy on the entry with fine grip, and quite saline, leading to a lovely savory finish. Excellent.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM(Domaine Joseph Roty Marsannay "Les Clos du Jeu" Villages Red) An even more complex nose offers up markedly ripe yet fresh notes of herbal tea, forest floor, plum, red and dark raspberry, violet and earth, all of which is trimmed in nuances of wood. The succulent and slightly bigger-bodied flavors possess a plush mid-palate mouthfeel along with good minerality, all wrapped in an impressively complex and persistent finish. While this possesses even denser tannins, the borderline creamy mouthfeel should permit this beauty of a Marsannay to be approachable after only 5 to 7 years of bottle age. Well worth considering. (Drink starting 2027)Burghound | 92 BHThe 2019 Marsannay Clos de Jeu offers up aromas of cherries, raspberries and loamy soil, framed by a deft touch of oak. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and seamless, it’s supple and layered, uniting upfront charm with aging potential.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RP(Marsannay “Clos de Jeu”- Domaine Joseph Roty) The Clos de Jeu will also be promoted eventually to premier cru and it too is showing its lovely potential in this 2019 bottling from Domaine Roty. The nose jumps from the glass in a complex blend of sweet dark berries, black cherries, smoked meats, a touch of licorice, a fine base of soil tones, woodsmoke and a touch of new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and tangy in personality, with a rock solid core of fruit, lovely mineral drive and grip, well-integrated tannins and a long, complex finish. Fine, fine juice. (Drink between 2027-2050)John Gilman | 91+ JG

A highlight this year is the 2019 Marsannay Les Ouzeloy, a lovely wine that opens in the glass with notions of cassis, plums, sweet berries and licorice. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and concentrated, with a broad attack that segues into a layered, lively mid-palate, it’s a serious effort, built for the cellar.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RPThe 2019 Marsannay Les Ouzeloy has quite an expressive, slightly toasty bouquet of lavish black fruit laced with blood orange and graphite notes. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins. The oak is quite noticeable at the moment and will require 4–5 years to be assimilated. Quite dense on the finish. A more sinewy Marsannay from Roty.Vinous Media | 88-90 VM

The 2020 Morey-Saint-Denis Village, which contains around 15% whole bunch, had only finished its malo a month prior to my visit. It has a dense, intense, blackcurrant and cassis-scented bouquet that will need time to mellow. The palate is medium-bodied, fresh and fleshy but the black cherry fruit is framed by fine tannins and the finish is so silky smooth that you cannot help falling for its charms. (Drink between 2025-2040)Vinous Media | 90-92 VMThere is a top note of kirsch to the earthier and spicier aromas of red and dark berry liqueur. The delicious, round and caressing flavors possess very good punch while exuding a refreshing salinity on the dusty and palate coating finale. (Drink starting 2027)Burghound | 88-91 BH

The black fruits and the juiciness of the wine are deceptive—they are just a front for the impressive structure, the rich tannins and the spice. This is a wine that already shows great potential while also bringing something of the softer side of a grand Margaux.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEBlackberry, graphite and blueberry character. It’s full-bodied, layered and chewy with fine-grained tannins and a punchy finish.James Suckling | 94-95 JSWafting from the glass with aromas of sweet berries, pencil shavings, warm spices and cocoa powder, the 2020 du Tertre is medium to full-bodied, supple and seamless, with an elegant, suave profile that belies good depth and concentration. This terroir is never going to produce the most powerful wine in Margaux, and it’s the prime example of an estate that gets lost in a mass tasting, but the restructuring of its vineyards, almost complete, is clearly quietly bearing its fruit.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPThe 2020 Château Du Tertre is fresh and lively, with pretty red and blue fruits as well as lots of sappy herbal and floral nuances. It’s nicely balanced and concentrated on the palate, with ripe tannins, a solid spine of acidity, and beautiful overall balance. The Margaux appellation was one of the more challenging places in the Médoc in 2020, but this looks to be terrific.Jeb Dunnuck | 91-93+ JDSpicy on the nose, with cinnamon, exotic spices, paprika and clove more than fruit at the moment. The palate is more lightly framed than some Margaux, more delicate with less overt texture and weight, but still quite high acidity so it comes across as a little less impactful, with a creamy milk chocolate, salty undercurrent. A little closed right now, although overall there’s balance. Feels delicate and well worked, just not hugely forward and expressive at this stage.Decanter | 93 DECThis throws a noticeable savory note out front, along with flashes of lilac and bay leaf in the mix, while the core of gently mulled red and black cherry fruit catches up. The silky finish has a light sanguine echo. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Best from 2025 through 2035. 6,000 cases made, 900 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

Tight and linear with blackcurrant and lemon rind character. Medium-bodied and racy with very fine tannins and a bright finish. Shows energy and focus. Drinkable, but better in three or four years.James Suckling | 94 JSThis magnificent medieval castle controls a vineyard that is just inland from Saint-Julien. With its ripe perfumes and rich tannins, the wine has a powerful potential set against the tightly juicy black currant fruits.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WEThe 2020 La Tour Carnet was impressive from barrel. Now in bottle, it has a composed and understated bouquet that grows in stature with aeration. A second bottle had a more accentuated marine scent. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, nicely judged acidity, very harmonious with an expressive, lightly spiced and persistent finish. Excellent.Vinous Media | 92 VMCrisp and crunchy, though quite chalky and creamy with licks of liquorice and wet stone. Quite high-toned, feels tight and very coiled right now with clear cedar, cinnamon and clove spice. The fruit profile is good, ripe blackcurrant and blueberries, but the whole frame is constricted almost straight away. Does feel clean though with firmness. It has a classicism in the sleek nature - well formed with estate signature. Decanter | 92 DECAromas of raspberries, crème de cassis, cigar wrapper and loamy soil introduce the 2020 La Tour Carnet, a medium to full-bodied, velvety and polished wine that’s more harmonious and better balanced than Magrez’s Grands Chênes. This large estate has eaten up many of the Haut-Médoc’s non-classified growths over the past decade to arrive at a surface area of over 130 hectares today.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RPAlmost always a winner, the 2020 Château La Tour Carnet offers a terrific, medium-bodied, concentrated style as well as classic notes of ripe currants, darker cherries, spicy wood, and graphite. It has the vintage’s more focused, classic, structured style, with ripe tannins and outstanding length. It’s well worth seeking out and is going to evolve for at least a decade.Jeb Dunnuck | 91 JD

The 2020 Beaune Boucherottes 1er Cru is perhaps the one cuvée from this appellation that showed just a little sur-maturité, very slight touches of prune filtering though the red fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannins, quite firm in the mouth with a slightly short finish.Vinous Media | 88-90 VM

Moderate wood surrounds the ripe blend of both red and black raspberry, exotic tea and pretty violet scents. The caressing, round and delicious medium weight flavors that possess good but not special density before firming up noticeably on the austere and much more mineral-driven finale.Burghound | 90-93 BHThe 2020 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes (Domaine Louis Jadot) reveals aromas of rich berries, orange rind, peonies and warm spices. Medium to full-bodied, with a lively core of fruit, ripe but firm tannins and a nicely defined finish, it will demand some bottle age.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RPThe 2020 Volnay Clos des Chênes 1er Cru comprises of one 456-litre barrel this year. It has a very well-defined bouquet with seamlessly integrated oak and impressive mineralité. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, fine delineation, just a little chewiness on the entry but there is tension interwoven into this Volnay from start to finish, plus great persistency. Superb.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

Here too there are ample spice elements adding breadth to the poached plum and black cherry liqueur aromas. The succulent, round and delicious flavors possess good if not truly special mid-palate density before concluding in a moderately austere, balanced and firmly structured finale. Patience advised here too as this powerful effort should age effortlessly.Burghound | 90-92 BHNotes of cherries, sweet berries, raw cocoa and spices preface the 2020 Volnay 1er Cru Santenots (Domaine Louis Jadot), a medium to full-bodied, lively and vibrant wine, built around tangy acids and powdery tannins. As readers may remember, this parcel is situated quite near the route nationale, from the lower part of this large premier cru.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 89-91 RPThe 2020 Volnay Les Santenots 1er Cru has a concentrated nose, one that feels a little "hemmed in", does not quite flow like the other Volnays from Jadot. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, quite bold and muscular, but missing the elegance that I seek from this vineyard.Vinous Media | 88-90 VM

The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Village has a very delineated, vibrant bouquet with white tipped strawberry and cranberry aromas, cohesive with impressive vigour and finesse. The medium-bodied palate is supple on the entry, extremely well balanced, surprisingly spicy with a finish that fans out wonderfully. Simply, one of the best Gevrey Villages you will find in 2021.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMAromas of red berries mingling with notions of sweet spices, forest floor and smoke introduce the 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Village, a medium-bodied, fleshy wine built around bright acids and beautifully refined, powdery tannins. Long and sapid, it shows outstanding potential.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 89-91 RPModerate reduction pushes the underlying fruit to the background. By contrast the middleweight flavors are ultra-fresh and very bright with excellent delineation while displaying solid depth and persistence on the youthfully austere finale. This should be reasonably approachable after only 2 to 3 years of keeping.Burghound | 88-91 BH

This is also distinctly earthy with humus nuances adding breadth to the aromas of violet, plum and red currant. The succulent, round and equally sappy medium weight flavors possess a highly appealing mouthfeel while the youthfully austere finish is also shaped by firm but fine-grained tannins. This silky effort could use better depth but it’s already quite pretty and should prove to be admirably ageworthy. (Drink starting 2031)Burghound | 90-93 BHMid crimson colour. Not one of the more ebullient noses at first, on its reserve. Plenty of weight of fresh fruit a little bit of fresh orange, otherwise raspberry and redcurrant, no great weight at the back but good length. This needs and will get a longer elevage. Drink from 2027-2033.Jasper Morris | 90-93 JM

Unusually supple and charming for a young wine from this site, the 2021 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeots Rouge reveals notes of plums, rose petals, smoke and spices, followed by a medium to full-bodied, giving and open-knit palate.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RPA restrained and slightly somber nose features notes of pepper, cherry, raspberry and more prominent earth influence. The delicious medium weight flavors possess a fleshy, plump and round mouthfeel while exhibiting fine depth and persistence on the mildly rustic finish. While this well-made effort could also be enjoyed young, a few years of cellaring should be beneficial.Burghound | 90 BH

The 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin La Marie, named after the lieu-dit close to the Château de Gevrey, has a fragrant bouquet with red cherries, wild strawberries and touches of quince, vivacious and beautifully focused. Saline in the mouth with plenty of energy, gradually building towards a well-proportioned, slightly peppery finish that might deceive you into thinking there were stems in the mix. A level up from the previous vintages.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMThe 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin La Marie is ampler and fuller than the regular Gevrey, unfurling in the glass with notes of dark berries, cherries, warm spices and sweet soil tones. Medium to full-bodied, rich and layered, with a succulent core of fruit and powdery tannins, it’s built to age with grace.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90-92 RPThis is the one wine in the range that was reduced and it’s enough to push the underlying fruit to the background. More interesting are the bigger-bodied and more concentrated flavors that brim with dry extract on the sneaky long and well-balanced finale. This is presently very backward, indeed it’s a bit grumpy, yet the potential for extended cellaring is clearly present. If you have the patience, and can find it, don’t hesitate.Burghound | 90-92 BH

A solid core of ruby purple. What a beautiful nose! Global warming says a friendly hello to cooler sites such as Les Barreaux. More oak this year because of the shortage of one year old barrels, and that shows a touch at the back at the moment but will all integrate. Very lively and extremely fine, with a greater depth of fruit than the Chambolle. The pinot fin plant selection is showing its class here. Drink from 2028-2035. Tasted: November 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JMThe 2022 Vosne-Romanée Les Barreaux, which Paul Gros said the family considers a Premier Cru close to Cros Parantoux and Richebourg, is based on poor shallow limestone soils. The nose takes time to open and evolves lovely raspberry and wild strawberry scents laced with oyster shells. The palate is medium-bodied with good substance on the entry. This is more structured than you might presuppose. It has a silver bead of acidity, and the finish feels pixelated for a Village Cru. Bon vin.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMAlthough this is slightly closed on the initial attack, there is a crisply refreshing high-toned fruit character (cranberry, raspberry, pomegranate), with notes of peony and spice. The texture is fresh, tannic and grippy, and the compact, expressive fruit has an admirably chiselled character. The wine is from 75-year-old vines planted at the top of the slope above Richebourg and Cros Parantoux — the ’baby Richebourg’ according to Anne Gros. This wine will drink well from three to five years after the vintage.Decanter | 93 DECIn contrast to the expressiveness of the prior wines, here the nose is firmly reduced and reveals nothing. More interesting are the fresh, vibrant and beautifully textured medium-bodied flavors that already possess solid depth and very fine length on the balanced if firmly structured finale. Lovely.Burghound | 89-91 BH