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Hand-picked and sorted 1868 planting, 50% crushed, 45% whole berry, 5% whole bunch. You’d stand up for royalty, and that’s this wine. To use the spit bucket is lèse-majesté. Just savour it, drop by drop, as it magically finds its way down your throat. It’s got the full rainbow of cool-grown shiraz flavours, a conjunction with a year made for it by Dionysius and, glory be, comes with a screwcap. Drink to 2067James Halliday | 99 JH

The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino La Cerbaiola grows in intensity in the glass, with delicate aromas that are especially floral and light in character. Instead of blackberry or blackcurrant, this elegant wine delivers cassis and cranberry. Instead of overt spice, you get licorice, balsam herb and camphor ash. The Salvioni house style is ethereal and light, and although that extra vintage ripeness and concentration does register on the palate, farming and winemaking at this estate puts an emphasis on acidity over power or structure. These choices were particularly important in 2017.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPRoses upon roses, wild strawberries, dusty cedar spice box, mint leaf and a hint of wet stone open the stage for the 2017 Brunello di Montalcino from Salvioni. This is beauty personified in wine, and it’s completely atypical for the harshly warm and dry vintage conditions. It fleshes out across the palate like fine silk, concentrated and poised, yet without a hard edge in sight, as cherries and plums give way to mounting minerality and sweet tannins toward the close. The 2017 boasts a crystalline structure and dramatic inner floral perfumes, as hints of cranberry and clove taper off. While this may not show the impeccable grace of the most classic vintages, it’s a darling all the same and has medium-term cellaring potential.Vinous Media | 94 VMWhen I visited Alessia Salvioni at the end of August 2017, she said the challenge for the imminent harvest would be avoiding dried grapes. The grapes were brought in on 12 September, approximately 10 days earlier than average. Aromas of sun-kissed cherries and blackberry speak to the warmth but there’s no sign of over-ripeness. Pepper, sage and cedar add fragrant intrigue, while the palate is surprisingly lean and sinewy, demonstrating Sangiovese’s lightness. Very direct in its delivery, its gritty tannins will need a bit of time but I don’t see this as one of Salvioni’s most long-lived vintages. Drinking Window: 2023 - 2029Decanter | 92 DEC

This is one of those wines where your nose is in the glass for ages, enjoying the complex array of aromas that range from raspberries to dates, perfumed bark to polished wood, pressed flowers to fresh mushrooms. Full-bodied, dense and focused with fine, well-integrated tannins, plenty of fruit flavor and an endless finish. A joy to drink even now, but this will age gracefully for many a year.James Suckling | 98 JSThe 2017 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Sergio Zenato is totally classic to the Zenato style, with macerated cherries, raisins, sweet herbs, cocoa, black pepper and shavings of cedar. This deeply textural with a dense wave of mineral-encased dark red fruits and balsamic spice carried across a core of stimulating acidity. Mocha and clove mix with black currant and olive as the 2017 finishes dramatically long and potent. There’s simply so much going on here, and more is guaranteed to come with maturation. Also of note is that the 2017 clocks in at only 3.3 grams of residual sugar. This is as serious as they comeVinous Media | 97 VM

Composed of 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 1% Petit Verdot and 1% Cabernet Franc, yields for the grand vin in 2017 were 43 hectoliters per hectare, and it was aged in 60% new oak. It came in at an alcohol of 13% and an IPT of 68. Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2017 Cos d’Estournel needs a little coaxing to unfurl, revealing beautiful expressions of preserved plums, boysenberries, blackcurrant pastilles and wild blueberries with hints of Indian spices, menthol, lilacs and mossy tree bark plus a compelling suggestion of iron ore. Medium to full-bodied, the palate has a solid backbone of firm, grainy tannins and well-knit freshness supporting the tightly wound blue and black fruits layers, finishing long and fragrant. This wine will need a good 5-7 years in bottle before it begins to blossom and should go on for at least another 40 years. I expect this wine to be a blockbuster of a head-turner when I come back and taste it at 10 years of age!Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98+ RPQuite the bottle here! Spices, such as nutmeg and cinnamon, as well as dried meat and plums with cedar and sandalwood. Full body. Deep and dense in the center palate and a long, long finish. Shows finesse and tightness. Very polished tannins. Long and ethereal. Try after 2023.James Suckling | 98 JSA bold, dramatic wine, the 2017 Cos d’Estournel is seriously impressive today. Time in barrel has done wonders for the 2017, a wine that has really gained depth in élevage. Black cherry, chocolate, spice, new leather, licorice, smoke and incense infuse the 2017 with tons of character, with the 60% new oak very well judged. In 2017, Cos has a level of textural resonance that eludes many Saint-Estèphes. The blend is 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 1% Petit Verdot and 1% Cabernet Franc.Antonio Galloni | 95 AGThis impressive wine is structured yet well balanced by an attractive fruitiness that parallels the tannins and the smokiness from wood aging. The density of the palate is countered by fresh acidity that shines through. Drink 2024.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEBright and expressive, with an extroverted core of loganberry, plum and black cherry fruit racing to the fore, carried by a polished and sleek structure. Reveals a subtle mineral edge through the finish, with alluring black and red tea notes swirling around. The rare seductive St.-Estèphe. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2036. 15,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThe grand vin 2017 Chateau Cos D’Estournel checks in as 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, and 1% each of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot brought up in 60% new French oak. It’s a classic 2017 that shows the straight, very classic style of the vintage with its medium to full body, ripe, present tannins, and solid spine of acidity. Beautiful cassis, green tobacco, graphite, and cedar pencil notes all emerge from the glass, and as with the Pagodes, it’s still tight and reserved on the palate. Reminding me of the 1996 with its classic, balanced style, give bottles 5-7 years and enjoy over the following two decades.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDHad a few issues with brett on the first bottle of this, but tasted again (twice for reassurance) and this has an unmistakably rich ripeness to it. Successful polishing and rounding out of the tannins that works to override the austerity of the vintage far better than many. Cassis and spiced damson character abounds, and it opens up in the glass slowly but determinedly. 60% new oak. Plenty of ageing capacity on display. Drinking Window 2025 - 2045.Decanter | 94 DEC