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A virtually perfect effort is the 1997 Sperss (30,000 bottles), which represents the essence of truffles, earth, and black cherries in its striking aromatics and multidimensional, opulent, full-bodied palate. The acidity seems low because of the huge glycerin levels and prodigious concentration of fruit, but I suspect it is normal in the scheme of oenological measurement. This profound wine requires 3-4 years of cellaring, and should age well for 30-35 years.A genius for sure, Angelo Gaja can not be faulted for what he puts in the bottle. This work of art is worth every cent it will fetch.Robert Parker | 99 RPAdmittedly, Gaja’s 1997 Sperss doesn’t quite hit the high notes it so often does. More often than not, the 1997 has been pretty much open for business, but this bottle is more reticent than other recent examples.Vinous Media | 97 VMDark ruby. Loads of blackberry, vanilla and milk chocolate on the nose. Turns to licorice and flowers. Full-bodied, with a subtle tannin structure and fresh and focused fruit. Balanced and pretty wine. Just starting to open.--1997 Italian blind retrospective. Best from 2008 through 2017. 2,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

Gaja's 2013 Sperss is fabulous. Deep and powerful, yet also wonderfully translucent, the 2013 hits all the right notes. Graphite, game, smoke, licorice, plum, black cherry and dark spice are some of the signatures, but as is always the case with the best vintages, Sperss is a wine of vertical intensity and muscle. The 2013 won't be anywhere near ready to drink for a number of years. All the pedgiree and character of these Serralunga sites come through in an exceptionally beautiful and vivid Barolo from Gaja.Antonio Galloni | 97 AGThe gem of the 2013s is the 2013 Barolo Sperss which comes from limestone-dominated soils. The 2013 is deep, concentrated, and structured, with a fabulous sense of minerality in its black cherry, leafy herbs, damp earth, and licorice aromas and flavors. From a late, cool vintage, it has awesome purity of fruit, plenty of tannins, and a huge finish. It’s a brilliant wine any way you look at it. I’d happily drink this elixir today, but it deserves at least 3-4 years and will keep for 25+.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDAmazing aromas of cherries, oranges and light prunes with hints of wet earth and mushrooms. Very perfumed. It's medium-bodied, firm and direct. Great vino. Needs at least five years to come together but already a joy to taste.James Suckling | 96 JSThis wine shows the quintessential attributes of the Serralunga d'Alba appellation with dark fruit flavors and powerful intensity. The 2013 Barolo Sperss paints a very authentic picture of its unique territory with rich layers of black fruit, wet earth, black truffle, licorice and spice. The wine's tannic structure is firm and lasting. It shows broad shoulders and rich texture overall. This beautiful Barolo boasts a dark color and thick concentration with the aromatic elegance obtained in the 2013 vintage. This important wine is now part of the Barolo DOCG family.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPUnderbrush, toast, menthol, grilled herb and star anise aromas lead the way. Firmly structured but loaded with finesse, the taut palate delivers Morello cherry, raspberry, licorice and a toasted note while assertive, close-grained tannins provide the framework. It's still young and austere so give it time to fully develop. Drink 2023–2033.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WETextbook rose, tar and cherry aromas and flavors, with accents of oak spice, licorice and tobacco, are the hallmarks of this complex red. Powerful yet harmonious, showing fine structure and a lingering finish. Best from 2022 through 2040. 375 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WS

Extremely perfumed and pretty with dried berry, orange peel and fruit tea on the nose. Full-bodied, extremely tight and refined with superb tannin quality that shows polish, finesse and beauty. It goes on for minutes on the palate. One for the cellar. Best wine ever from here. Needs three or four years to come together.James Suckling | 99 JSThe 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Rennina is beautifully balanced and elegant. The wine is successfully streamlined and focused on the nuanced characteristics of the otherwise warm and sunny 2015 vintage. Rennina is often considered to be the more lithe and graceful of Gaja’s two Brunellos (the other being Sugarille that is also reviewed here). The bouquet opens to pretty berry nuances, blue flower, lavender, grilled herb and powdery licorice. Despite the more delicate approach, Rennina delivers ample power in the mouth with fresh acidity and tight tannins. I’d suggest opening this bottle at the 10-year mark. Production is 11,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThe 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Rennina is dark and powerful in the glass, slowly opening with a display of crushed stone, cedar, mint, and a dusting of cumin, as its dark red fruits begin to unfurl in a captivating display. On the palate, silky textures offset tart cherry and blackberry fruits, balanced by a core of rounded tannins and lifting acidity, as hints of licorice and sweet herbal tones develope. The finish is medium in length and poised, showing fine-grain tannins beneath a sheen of polished red and black fruits, with hints of lavender lingering on. The 2015 Rennina is a classy wine that’s just begging for a few years in the cellar to fully blossom.Vinous Media | 95 VMAromatic, evoking wild herb and balsamic notes of juniper, thyme and pine, along with flavors of black cherry, plum and iron. Firmly structured and fresh, offering a long, complex aftertaste. Unfolds pleasantly and maintains balance. Best from 2023 through 2043. 550 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSRennina hails from three of the Gaja estate’s original vineyards acquired in 1994. It is aromatically forward with black cherry fruit, sweet chewing tobacco, and sage. On the palate, it is generous and approachable upfront, with kirsch and vanilla, then follows through with amaro, a grippy structure, and a long finish. It is a detailed wine that will mature with grace, though it is pleasurable in its youth as well. Enjoy 2022-2035.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDShowing the heat of the vintage, this has subdued aromas suggesting mature black-skinned berry marinated in spirits along with whiffs of dried herb, scorched earth, coconut and balsamic whiffs of camphor. The full-bodied palate is rather shy on fruit richness, featuring dried black cherry, French oak, vanilla and licorice alongside the warmth of evident alcohol. Close-grained tannins leave a firm, mouthdrying finish. Give the tannins a few years to unwind then drink sooner rather than later to capture the remaining fruit.Wine Enthusiast | 90 WE

The Pieve Santa Restituta 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille reveals a finely chiseled quality, with direct and lifted fruit, that gives this wine an angular or delineated personality. This impression is reinforced by delicate mineral notes of crushed stone that fold into dark fruit, sweet plum, black cherry and earthy iris root. The wine is elegant, but it also shows lots of umami or textural deliciousness thanks to the natural ripeness and concentration of the fruit. Give this wine more time in bottle.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97+ RPExtremely perfumed and intense with lilacs, violets, purple fruits and black cherries. Full-bodied and very structured with punchy tannins that give this great length and intensity. This is a great one for the cellar. Try after 2027.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille is dark and youthfully inward, forcing the taster to work with its brooding blend of blackberries, sage and crushed stone. This displays textures of pure silk, polished and refined, with a dense textural wave of tart red and black fruits underscored by saline minerals and exotic spice. Orange notes add contrast through the close as this finishes tannic and long, with a pleasantly chewy sensation and angular tannins that pinch the cheeks. The 2019 is a dark stallion of a Brunello, all muscle and meat, that will take many years of cellaring to show its best. That said, it will be worth the wait.Vinous Media | 96 VMBalsamic aromas of camphor mingle with new leather, cedar, blue flower and underbrush on the brooding 2019 Sugarille. Showing more structure than the Rennina but still endowed with the firm’s hallmark of elegance, it delivers ripe black cherry, blood orange licorice and tobacco framed in tightly-woven, close grained tannins that give it a velvety texture. Drink 2039–2044. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOTo complete Angelo Gaja’s comparison with his Langhe wines, he likens Sugarille to Barolo (as opposed to the Rennina, which he equates with Barbaresco). Powerfully constructed, this will appeal to drinkers seeking a vigorous style of Brunello. Sweet oak spice and plum take on earthy forest undertones. It’s ample and expansive in fruit, yet austere and tight in structure: dark cherry and plum hang off steely, vertical grape tannins. Thicker wood tannins build through the core but crisp acidity offsets the dense structure, and medicinal herbs are tucked into its layers. This becomes increasingly firmer as it sits in the glass, and will need a whole lot of time.Decanter | 95 DEC