Super Tuscans

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The wine that most delighted me at this historic tasting of Tuscany's most iconic wines was the 2006 Masseto. This is a wine of sheer power, bliss, opulence, infinity and sublime seduction. This Merlot-based masterpiece hits all your senses with the grace of a ballerina and the power of a heavyweight. It is steady on its proverbial feet, but it also glides over the palate with a profound sense of elegance, harmony and rhythm. Among the prized vintages of Masseto, including 2001, 2004 and 2007, this edition is my favorite. The wine delivers an extra sense of tightness or firmness at the back that serves to stitch together its fleshy richness and general sumptuousness. The personality is sunny, expansive, articulate and sophisticated. You'll remember that the 2006 vintage is celebrated for the elegance of its wines. In the coastal Bolgheri appellation, it is also remembered for the power of its wines. You get the best of both worlds with this stunning creation: elegance and power. These traits are particularly well suited to the versatile grape variety at the heart of this Tuscan all-rounder. This is a true Renaissance wine.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 100 RPI still remember where I was the first time I tasted the 2006 Masseto. Since then, I have tasted the 2006 several times. It has never been anything less than utterly profound. That is once again the case on this night. Readers who are cellaring the 2006 Masseto in magnum will want to wait at least a few years for it to be at its very best. Still, it is magnificent tonight.Antonio Galloni | 99 AGThis has a special savory character that is fascinating. It shows beautiful aromas of dried fruits, black olives, and brown sugar. Full-bodied with a phenomenal amount of fruit and freshness at the same time. Salty, juicy and fruity. Hard not to drink now. Decant two or three hours before serving. Great potential for aging.James Suckling | 99 JSIt is perhaps no surprise that very distinctive vintage conditions in 2006 produced such a special wine. A huge drought from mid-April to mid-September saw only 4mm of rain, which was followed by a deluge of 240mm in one weekend. ‘This wine had one of the highest alcohols and highest acidities we had ever seen’, comments Axel Heinz. Perhaps it is this contradiction that makes the 2006 so distinctive. It is brimming with vivid Merlot aromas including ripe red fruit, plums and contrasting green tomato and spice notes. The rich concentration and opulent texture is offset by vivid acidity. Flavours of green olive, spice and black cherry seem to spring to life on the palate. It has all the lush, velvety tannins you would expect of Masseto, but it bursts into life with a lively, slightly wild personality.Decanter | 98 DECBeautiful aromas of perfumes, berries and flowers turn to light toasty oak and sandalwood. Full-bodied, with very well-integrated tannins that build and coat your palate. Long and silky-textured on the finish. Shows great class and finesse. Merlot. Best after 2012. 2,660 cases made.Wine Spectator | 98 WSThis wine shows growing intensity the longer it stays in the glass and a very silky, polished feel in the mouth. Aromas include red fruit, spice and rosemary: this is a beautiful, balanced wine that will have a long life in your cellar.Wine Enthusiast | 97 WE

The 2019 Palafreno, 100% Merlot from Greve’s Ruffoli district, is stunning, not to mention one of the greatest wines I have ever tasted here. Silky, plush and exceptionally vivid in the glass, the Palafreno possesses breathtaking beauty that captivates all the senses. At this early stage, the 2019 is all primary dark fruit, but the layers will start to open with cellaring. Readers who can find it should not hesitate. It’s a real head turner.Vinous Media | 98 VMThis is very polished and structured with a finesse to the tannins which spread across the palate. It’s full-bodied with fine fruit and a driven finish. It needs three or four years to soften and open. From organically grown grapes. Vegan. Try after 2025.James Suckling | 95 JS(Palafreno- Agricola Querciabella) Querciabella’s Super Tuscan bottling crafted solely from merlot is absolutely beautiful in the 2019 vintage. The wine is fairly ripe in this vintage, coming in at 14.5 percent octane, but shows off its signature purity and precision on both the nose and palate. The beautifully refined bouquet wafts from the glass in a mix of sweet dark berries, black plums, tobacco leaf, violets, a gorgeous base of soil, a hint of Tuscan herb tones and a deft foundation of cedary new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, focused and complex, with a plush core of fruit, excellent mineral undertow, ripe tannins, tangy acids and excellent length and grip on the superbly balanced finish. Like every vintage of Palafreno I have been fortunate enough to taste, the 2019 is built for the long haul and will demand some cellaring to soften up its tannins. But, it will be exceptional once it is ready to drink. (Drink between 2032 - 2075)John Gilman | 95 JGRich and round, this red exudes black cherry, blackberry, wild rosemary and iron flavors. Reveals dense tannins on the finish, leaving a tight feel, yet this lingers. Drink now through 2029. 216 cases made, 20 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

Wow. The aromas are really something else with red fruits, black olives, spices like cardamon and nutmeg, as well as hints of tar and meat. It’s full-bodied yet in check and focus with fine, fine tannins that roll over the palate and create beautiful motion. Chewy yet silky and endless. A great young merlot and one of the best for a number of years. Try after 2028.James Suckling | 99 JSTua Rita’s flagship bottling is pure Merlot from Colline Metallifere, matured for 18 to 20 months in new French oak barriques. There’s chocolatey richness here but also fragrance, with some violet, plum and blue fruit scents. In the mouth its super-fresh, saline acidity invites an intense attack of spiced plum, blackberry and damson along with white pepper and clove, leading to a plush, velvety mid-palate with cocoa and wood lingering in the background and supported by fine, well-integrated tannins. Concentrated, vibrant and saline, this is an extraordinary Merlot with a gastronomic edge.Decanter Magazine | 98 DECPutting aside the thrashing Merlot got from Hollywood, there is in fact good reason to be skeptical of Merlot thanks to its general mistreatment from winemakers far and wide, apart from the heaviest of heavy hitters who made a few expressions that became the ultimate exceptions to the rule. But I always love an underdog story, and I love Merlot from southwest Tuscany, especially Redigaffi. Wine Enthusiast | 98 WEThe 2021 Redigaffi is superb. Silky, dense and expansive, with terrific depth, it possesses striking nuance from start to finish. Black cherry, plum, espresso, licorice and menthol infuse the 2021 with tons of resonance. Here, too, the approach is quite a bit dialed back from the early days.Vinous Media | 97 VMThe Tua Rita 2021 Redigaffi is a wine of thick character and dark extraction. This 100% expression of Merlot offers tension and extreme balance with very generous layers of dark cherry, plum, dried blackberry, spice and tobacco. It displays a spectacularly soft and velvety texture over a full-bodied approach. Redigaffi is often monolithic and monotone in its younger years, and it needs more bottle age to come into focus. This is very true for the 2021 vintage.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPExuding black currant, blackberry, plum and iron flavors, this sleek version is also powerful, with beefy tannins, yet it’s the vivid acidity that drives the long, toasty oak–infused aftertaste in the end. Merlot. Best from 2027 through 2043. 1,250 cases made, 360 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

This vintage of the 2022 Masseto is 100% Merlot. The nose is pronounced, leading with its mineral aromas of crushed dark stones. It smells like dissolved minerals, delicate peppery accents, black plum, red apples, lavender perfume, and sage. The aromatics are quite profound in this vintage, and on the palate, it’s full-bodied and more structured, with ripe tannins and a good deal of depth and richness, with the minerality shining through. Long on the palate, it’s generous all the way through, and while it feels approachable upfront, more structure comes through on the finish. Allow it some time in cellar and drink 2028-2058.Jeb Dunnuck | 98+ JDThe summer was so arid in 2022 that the vines shut down and ripening was halted until mid-August rains arrived. This helped to preserve acidity in the grapes, giving sensational freshness to balance the rich and finely structured palate. Masseto 2022, then, combines the best of both worlds: fruit ripeness and concentration, and freshness and poise. It’s not as immediately seductive as the 2021, but there is so much potential in this long-lived vintage. Scents of cool, damp earth, dark hedgerow berries, Mediterranean scrub, and cocoa and wood give a sense of what is to come once time has untangled everything. Zingy, crunchy acidity steals the show early on, segueing into a mouthful of succulent yet dense dark berries and spice imbued with plenty of energy. Then some balsamic herbs and floral notes lighten the palate, before a touch of salinity and some bitter herbs emerge on the finish, with a refrain of bright cherry. Something special.Decanter Magazine | 98 DECA solid and structured red with blackcurrant, chocolate and walnut aromas and underlying toasted wood. Medium- to full-bodied with chewy tannins and a chewy, savory finish. Hints of coconut and toasted oak. It’s muscular and toned. It needs time to soften. Best after 2028.James Suckling | 97 JSThis red is both well-structured and framed with new oak nuances of vanilla, toast and resin, setting the stage for plum, blackberry, fruitcake, mineral and tobacco flavors. There’s a salty element interwoven throughout, along with a fluid feel. Offers fine grip on the lingering finish, so give the dense tannins some time to integrate. Merlot. Best from 2028 through 2043. 410 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSThe 2022 Masseto is soft, open-knit and relatively easygoing. The mid-weight structure of the year is very much in evidence in a wine that speaks more to finesse than power. Dark red cherry, plum, new leather, licorice and incense gradually open over time, supported by fine, silky tannins that wrap it all together in style. Masseto is typically much more potent in the early going, in 2022 the more refined style that has begun to emerge here along with the style of the year yield a Masseto that is quite elegant. Its balance is beyond reproach, especially in the integration of something that usually requires at least a few years in bottle.Vinous Media | 95 VM